sci.electronics.repair
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair?hl=en
sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com
Today's topics:
* Harmon Kardon MS-150 ... - 2 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/94492aa4601f463c?hl=en
* Active device nonsense - 12 messages, 7 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/58fd5bf0893d5f4a?hl=en
* Sony RM-U100 - 2 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/879fa0651e0f7494?hl=en
* Tools to View, Save & Edit Flash Drive Properties? - 2 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/f0fa0a23f84aeb57?hl=en
* Owon oscilloscope power supply schema or part info? - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/f5f68bb60c6b87eb?hl=en
* Fuses in place of motor "heaters"? (induction motor protection) - 3 messages,
3 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/0933319a7c117739?hl=en
* Centronix gender? - 2 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/11a01a13e1df3c26?hl=en
* Surface mount PbF device coding - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/fc502f9aa94e682d?hl=en
* Get bestiphone repairs in Brisbane - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/34769c6c13e0e9cd?hl=en
==============================================================================
TOPIC: Harmon Kardon MS-150 ...
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/94492aa4601f463c?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Tues, Jan 28 2014 6:25 pm
From: "Arfa Daily"
"William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:lc62c1$klp$1@dont-email.me...
> "Arfa Daily" wrote in message news:xuuFu.120$ac4.97@fx05.am4...
>
>> No, I haven't. There's a limit to the amount of time that I'm prepared to
>> spend on this consumer junk, governed entirely by the law of diminishing
>> returns. To be honest, if getting inside it involves removing glued-on
>> trims, then I am not interested beyond the point that I have now reached.
>
> To put it a bit more bluntly... Is it not reasonable to assume that a
> product that's glued together is not intended to be repaired?
>
If something is genuinely glued together, then it gets little more than a
cursory look if it crosses my bench. However, this one was slightly
different from that in that it had lots of obvious screws holding the case
halves together, and when these were removed, it was 'almost' coming apart
in the way that you would expect, but something else, right in the middle,
was still preventing it from coming all the way. I'm sure that a bit of
brute force and ignorance would have seen it apart, but it's a fancy
expensive-looking (and probably /actually/ expensive) item, and I was
concerned that something visible might 'give', leaving nasty damage ...
Arfa
== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 29 2014 3:29 am
From: thekmanrocks@gmail.com
WHO the heck are they trying to be: http://static.bootic.com/_pictures/1449104/harman-kardon-ms-150.jpg BOSE?!
That thing looks like the Revel Resort in Atlantic City -LMAO!! At least they could have incorporated the iPod Dock into the cabinet, instead of tacking it onto the side like an afterthought.
I say flip it over and start unscrewing from the bottom.
==============================================================================
TOPIC: Active device nonsense
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/58fd5bf0893d5f4a?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 12 ==
Date: Tues, Jan 28 2014 6:46 pm
From: Kaz Kylheku
On 2014-01-29, jurb6006@gmail.com <jurb6006@gmail.com> wrote:
>>"A diode is not active by itself, because it's a two-port circuit. There is no
> way for it to have an input which controls an output. "
>
> So your contention then is that tunnel diodes, Gunn diodes and Zener diodes
> are not active devices.
I'm trying to classify them as such, but I am unable to think of the
justification.
> If that is so, then a magnetron is also passive. It is technically a diode
> with an indirectly heated cathode unless you consider the magnet an element.
> Also, what of the case of a Hall effct device ? Nothing electronic controls
> it, only a magnetic field. Other devices can have more than two terminals
> aqnd be passive, so where does the Hall effect fit in there ?
These devices can be active if we broaden the definition of "input", and
"energy" and so on beyond electronics. I already gave an example of automobile
power steering being active.
In the case of semiconductor diodes, we have photodiodes. (Actually any
silicon diode reacts to light, just isn't necessarily packaged for that use.)
The two ports of a photodiode can be configured to pass current from a power
supply. The light falling on the junction can be regarded as an input: a third
port which modulates the current. This is then "active": some energy delivery
is modulated in proportion to the light, and yet most of the energy is not
derived from that light.
Hall effect sensors and such can be conceived similarly.
== 2 of 12 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 29 2014 4:52 am
From: "William Sommerwerck"
An active device provides signal amplification, or it uses amplification as
the basis of its operation. That has always been the definition.
Is digital circuitry active? I'd say yes. The ability to switch a tube or
transistor "on" depends on the device's ability to amplify its input to the
point it's driven into saturation. The amplification mechanism is exactly the
same as when the device amplifies a continuously varying signal.
How about controlled rectifiers? These are four-layer (sometimes more) devices
sometimes modeled as two transistors in a sort of "soixante neuf" arrangement,
a kind of flip-flop. Again, the same transistor amplification mechanism makes
them work.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/TRIAC
Magnetic amplifiers use a small current to control a larger one. They're (as
the British would say) "valves", just as tubes and transistors are.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magnetic_amplifier
== 3 of 12 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 29 2014 1:03 pm
From: Jerry Peters
Kaz Kylheku <kaz@kylheku.com> wrote:
> On 2014-01-28, jurb6006@gmail.com <jurb6006@gmail.com> wrote:
>> If a diode is not active, why ? You can modulate with it. You can switch with it. This can be done with solid state diodes or otherwise.
>
> A diode is not active by itself, because it's a two-port circuit. There is no
> way for it to have an input which controls an output.
Switching diode which switches an AC signal with a DC signal. It's
been done for years.
PIN diode which can switch or attenuate an RF signal with a DC
current.
--snip--
== 4 of 12 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 29 2014 1:07 pm
From: Jerry Peters
William Sommerwerck <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote:
> An active device provides signal amplification, or it uses amplification as
> the basis of its operation. That has always been the definition.
>
> Is digital circuitry active? I'd say yes. The ability to switch a tube or
> transistor "on" depends on the device's ability to amplify its input to the
> point it's driven into saturation. The amplification mechanism is exactly the
> same as when the device amplifies a continuously varying signal.
>
> How about controlled rectifiers? These are four-layer (sometimes more) devices
> sometimes modeled as two transistors in a sort of "soixante neuf" arrangement,
> a kind of flip-flop. Again, the same transistor amplification mechanism makes
> them work.
>
> https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/TRIAC
>
> Magnetic amplifiers use a small current to control a larger one. They're (as
> the British would say) "valves", just as tubes and transistors are.
>
> https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magnetic_amplifier
>
I'd say amplification is a *sufficient* condition but not a necessary
one. A diode can be used as a switch, without amplifying, which I would
argue makes it an active device.
== 5 of 12 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 29 2014 3:15 pm
From: Kaz Kylheku
On 2014-01-29, William Sommerwerck <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote:
> An active device provides signal amplification, or it uses amplification as
> the basis of its operation. That has always been the definition.
That is fine, but you have to remember that amplification includes unity gain
(and below).
> Is digital circuitry active? I'd say yes.
I would say that, as a category, no.
Counterexample:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diode_logic
== 6 of 12 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 29 2014 4:37 pm
From: dave
On 01/29/2014 01:03 PM, Jerry Peters wrote:
> Kaz Kylheku <kaz@kylheku.com> wrote:
>> On 2014-01-28, jurb6006@gmail.com <jurb6006@gmail.com> wrote:
>>> If a diode is not active, why ? You can modulate with it. You can switch with it. This can be done with solid state diodes or otherwise.
>>
>> A diode is not active by itself, because it's a two-port circuit. There is no
>> way for it to have an input which controls an output.
>
> Switching diode which switches an AC signal with a DC signal. It's
> been done for years.
>
> PIN diode which can switch or attenuate an RF signal with a DC
> current.
>
> --snip--
>
Pin diodes don't attenuate. They connect resistors.
== 7 of 12 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 29 2014 5:31 pm
From: "William Sommerwerck"
"Jerry Peters" wrote in message news:lcbqi0$ke5$2@dont-email.me...
> I'd say amplification is a *sufficient* condition but not a necessary
> one. A diode can be used as a switch, without amplifying, which
> I would argue makes it an active device.
So then a light switch is an active device? Hello?
The remarks made here are classic examples of opening one's mouth and stating
whatever pops into one's head, without giving it the least bit of thought.
There's no point in discussing it further. If a device cannot amplify (in the
ordinary, common-sense meaning of the word), it is not an active device.
Otherwise, you could twist the definition so that any and every electronic
component was an active device.
Case closed.
== 8 of 12 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 29 2014 6:11 pm
From: "Phil Allison"
"William Fuckwit Sommerwanker "
>>
>> I'd say amplification is a *sufficient* condition but not a necessary
>> one. A diode can be used as a switch, without amplifying, which
>> I would argue makes it an active device.
>
> So then a light switch is an active device?
** FFS - it not an ELECTRONIC device.
Do you want food mixers and lawn mowers included too ??
> The remarks made here are classic examples of opening one's mouth and
> stating whatever pops into one's head, without giving it the least bit of
> thought.
** Like YOU do all the fucking time - asshole.
> There's no point in discussing it further. If a device cannot amplify (in
> the ordinary, common-sense meaning of the word), it is not an active
> device.
** Crap.
> Otherwise, you could twist the definition so that any and every electronic
> component was an active device.
** Define "electronic component" to mean only those items that are
exclusively electronic in nature and you have got it.
The term " active device" cannot be defined OUT OF CONTEXT !!!!!!
I say it includes to ANY vacuum tube or semiconductor intended to be used in
an electronic circuit - cos that is how most folk working IN ELECTRONICS
use it and dealer's catalogues reflect the fact too.
And Wiki agrees with ME !!!!!
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electronic_component#Classification
.... Phil
== 9 of 12 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 29 2014 8:05 pm
From: "Michael A. Terrell"
Jerry Peters wrote:
>
> Kaz Kylheku <kaz@kylheku.com> wrote:
> > On 2014-01-28, jurb6006@gmail.com <jurb6006@gmail.com> wrote:
> >> If a diode is not active, why ? You can modulate with it. You can switch with it. This can be done with solid state diodes or otherwise.
> >
> > A diode is not active by itself, because it's a two-port circuit. There is no
> > way for it to have an input which controls an output.
>
> Switching diode which switches an AC signal with a DC signal. It's
> been done for years.
>
> PIN diode which can switch or attenuate an RF signal with a DC
> current.
We used them as band switches in a low noise synthesizer. A DC
voltage would turn the diode on to short out part of the inductor,
raising the center frequency of the VCO. Breaking the 360-510 MHz into
four overlapping segments allowed for more linear and reduced the
effects of noise on the tuning voltage that controlled the tuning.
== 10 of 12 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 29 2014 11:09 pm
From: Mike Tomlinson
En el artículo <lcca2a$hfc$1@dont-email.me>, William Sommerwerck
<grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> escribió:
>The remarks made here are classic examples of opening one's mouth and stating
>whatever pops into one's head, without giving it the least bit of thought.
Welcome to Usenet. :-)
--
(\_/)
(='.'=)
(")_(")
== 11 of 12 ==
Date: Thurs, Jan 30 2014 7:09 am
From: "William Sommerwerck"
"Phil Allison" wrote in message news:bktqlnFbe8aU1@mid.individual.net...
>> Otherwise, you could twist the definition so that any and every
>> electronic component was an active device.
** Define "electronic component" to mean only those items that are
exclusively electronic in nature and you have got it.
What do you mean by "electronic"? Aren't /all/ devices used in electronic
equipment "electronic" /by definition/?
> The term "active device" cannot be defined OUT OF CONTEXT !!!!!!
True -- the context is amplification.
> I say it includes to ANY vacuum tube or semiconductor intended
> to be used in an electronic circuit - cos that is how most folk
> working IN ELECTRONICS use it and dealer's catalogues reflect
> the fact, too.
I don't care what most people think. I only care about the truth. To call an
ordinary rectifier an active component is beyond stupid. It is not "active",
in any reasonable sense of the term.
Phil, you're like most human beings. You believe what you want to believe,
without thinking about it.
> And Wiki agrees with ME !!!!!
The article is wrong. Too bad.
== 12 of 12 ==
Date: Thurs, Jan 30 2014 7:48 am
From: "William Sommerwerck"
Let's look at this (non-)issue in a broader sense. What was the point of
applying the adjective "active" to particular devices?
"Obviously", it was to distinguish them from non-active devices. And prior to
the Audion, there /were/ no active devices -- devices that /amplified/.
Several years ago we had an insane argument, in which a significant number of
posters claimed that transducers were amplifiers, twisting the definitions of
these terms into perverse forms.
We are now told that a PIN diode -- which is no more than a switch -- is an
active device, apparently because it's made of semiconductor material, which
/just happens/ to be used in active devices. So -- duh -- they must both be
active devices.
What does the material have to do with it? A switch is a switch. Switches are
not, and have never been, considered active devices. Do PIN diodes get a
special break, just because they're semiconductors? Are we now supposed to
classify the power switch on a table radio as an active device?
Calling an electrical generator an active device is meaningless, because it
doesn't draw any useful distinction with "inactive" devices (such as a rake or
a step ladder). An if an electrical generator is an "active" device, why isn't
a log? A log can be burned to produce energy.
Human beings are incredibly stupid. They believe what their parents tell them,
and almost always stick ferociously to their childhood beliefs throughout
life. They believe that whatever pops into their heads is true, and these
beliefs can only rarely be shaken. Worst of all, humans hardly ever ask "How
do I know whether something is true or not?" Of course, in a democracy it
doesn't matter. One person's point of view is as good as any other person's.
==============================================================================
TOPIC: Sony RM-U100
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/879fa0651e0f7494?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 29 2014 12:37 am
From: N_Cook
On 28/01/2014 20:29, Pat wrote:
> I started using my old Sony STR-AV910 receiver after it had been
> stored for a year or two. Everything worked except the remote. One
> battery was in pretty good shape, but the other showed only 0.8 volts.
> However, neither battery was leaking. I installed new batteries, but
> still no output. I tried removing and reinstalling the batteries a
> few times and finally gave up. (I did learn that, unlike my old
> iPhone, my newer iPhone has an IR filter on its camera, though).
>
> Anyway, I went to 800-remote's web site and saw I could buy a
> refurbished unit. However, if the problem was caused by dried up
> caps, a refurbished unit of the same age might fail soon. While
> thinking about it, I noticed a "fix it yourself" link on their site. I
> clicked on it and was instructed to remove the batteries, press every
> button once, repeat for every setting of the two slide switched and
> then reinsert the batteries. I was very skeptical, but sure enough,
> it works fine now. I can only guess, it needed to be fully reset and
> pressing the buttons fully shorted any charge remaining on high
> impedance input lines of the ic. Any other thoughts on why that
> procedure fixed it? They claim it fixes 1 in 3 failed remotes.
>
> Pat
>
Probably insulating black CuS corrossion on the slide switches,
corrossion under a key would not stop the unit as a whole from
operating. Daily or regular use keeps that corrossion at bay,
by the wiping action of the phosphor bronze sliding contacts.
At least the corrossion product of silver plating is conductive and of
course gold plating does not corrode in normal circumstances.
== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 29 2014 5:04 am
From: "Mark Zacharias"
"Pat" <pat@nospam.us> wrote in message
news:624ge9phm6q03r01nrsm00ioe3fhdp4gee@4ax.com...
>I started using my old Sony STR-AV910 receiver after it had been
> stored for a year or two. Everything worked except the remote. One
> battery was in pretty good shape, but the other showed only 0.8 volts.
> However, neither battery was leaking. I installed new batteries, but
> still no output. I tried removing and reinstalling the batteries a
> few times and finally gave up. (I did learn that, unlike my old
> iPhone, my newer iPhone has an IR filter on its camera, though).
>
> Anyway, I went to 800-remote's web site and saw I could buy a
> refurbished unit. However, if the problem was caused by dried up
> caps, a refurbished unit of the same age might fail soon. While
> thinking about it, I noticed a "fix it yourself" link on their site. I
> clicked on it and was instructed to remove the batteries, press every
> button once, repeat for every setting of the two slide switched and
> then reinsert the batteries. I was very skeptical, but sure enough,
> it works fine now. I can only guess, it needed to be fully reset and
> pressing the buttons fully shorted any charge remaining on high
> impedance input lines of the ic. Any other thoughts on why that
> procedure fixed it? They claim it fixes 1 in 3 failed remotes.
>
> Pat
Seen it many times with many brands. Alway recommend the customer try this
before replacing the remote. Don't need to press all buttons, 2 or 3 will
do.
The chip inside just seems to get locked up.
Mark Z.
==============================================================================
TOPIC: Tools to View, Save & Edit Flash Drive Properties?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/f0fa0a23f84aeb57?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 29 2014 8:10 am
From: KenO
Have a Skymedi usb 1GB flash drive that somehow had its size increased.
Was able to find the Skymedi Production Tool and tried to return this flash drive to its original properties by deleting the config.file but all this did was to change the property size to zero.
Appreciate any tips or links concerning tools to view, save and edit Flash Drive properties.
Thanks
Ken
== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 29 2014 7:28 pm
From: "hrhofmann@sbcglobal.net"
On Wednesday, January 29, 2014 10:10:28 AM UTC-6, KenO wrote:
> Have a Skymedi usb 1GB flash drive that somehow had its size increased. Was able to find the Skymedi Production Tool and tried to return this flash drive to its original properties by deleting the config.file but all this did was to change the property size to zero. Appreciate any tips or links concerning tools to view, save and edit Flash Drive properties. Thanks Ken
1GB drives are so cheap it is probably not worth spending much time on it.
==============================================================================
TOPIC: Owon oscilloscope power supply schema or part info?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/f5f68bb60c6b87eb?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 29 2014 9:10 am
From: tuinkabouter
On 1/28/2014 4:56 PM, Ismo Salonen wrote:
> Owon has not answered to my query.
At the moment the chinese are celebrating new year.
In china it is big, compare it with Xmas in the us.
Every one is visiting there family.
Don't expect an answer in 10 to 14 days.
==============================================================================
TOPIC: Fuses in place of motor "heaters"? (induction motor protection)
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/0933319a7c117739?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 29 2014 12:28 pm
From: bud--
On 1/28/2014 5:41 PM, Phil Allison wrote:
> "boob = bullshit artist"
>
>>>>>> They often are used for short circuit protection of a motor circuit,
>>>>>> but
>>>>>> not for overload protection.
>>>>>
>>>>> ** Horse manure !!!!!!!!!!
>>>>>
>>>>> Overload protection is EXACTLY what circuit breakers are there for.
>>>>>
>>>>> You cab size them to protect a stalled or overloaded motor or just the
>>>>> supply cables.
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>> The step between circuit breaker ratings is far too large to provide
>>>> overload protection for motors.
>>>
>>> ** FFS - asshole try LEARNING TO READ
>>>
>>> Thermal breakers come in any almost size you like and you fit them
>>> between
>>> the AC outlet and the load.
>>
>>> Thermal/ magnetic breakers are not simply for "short circuit protection".
>>> They provide cable overload ( overtemp) protection.
>>
>> Not in the US NEC. And not the practice in the US.
>
> ** You are one stupid, lying ass.
More of the famous Allison logic.
>
> WTF do you think AC supply circuit breakers are fucking for?
You forgot to to answer the question. Maybe because you deleted it.
"What [AC supply circuit] breaker would you use for overload protection
for a motor with a run current of 16.3A. Breaker must be UL listed, able
to withstand motor starting currents, and suitable for use as motor
protection."
That should be a trivial you.
>
>> You have such compelling arguments.
>
>
> ** While you have posted NONE at ALL !!!!!!!!
Only if you can't read !!!!!!!!
>
> Fuck off - you crazy fucking nut case.
Does you mommy approve of your language?
== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 29 2014 8:20 pm
From: "Michael A. Terrell"
bud-- wrote:
>
> Must be another alwayswrong sock puppet.
No, this is a different character. A psychotic Aussie.
== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 29 2014 9:23 pm
From: gregz
Fred Abse <excretatauris@invalid.invalid> wrote:
> On Sun, 26 Jan 2014 08:13:56 -0500, Jim Wilkins wrote:
>
>> "DoN. Nichols" <BPdnicholsBP@d-and-d.com> wrote in message
>> news:slrnle97cu.5kc.BPdnicholsBP@Katana.d-and-d.com...
>>> On 2014-01-25, Jim Wilkins <muratlanne@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Why do you need two fuses for a single-phase motor?
>>>
>>> In the UK, you don't, because 240 VAC comes with one side grounded.
>>> However, in the USA, 240 VAC is normally supplied with a grounded center
>>> tap, so if you have only one fuse -- or have two but only one blows, you
>>> still have 120 VAC live in the motor's housing, and
>>> potentially available for contact and personal zapping. :-)
>>>
>>>
>> I assumed it was wired with a 20A double-pole breaker at the panel
>> protecting from shorts and a smaller fuse sized (how?) to blow before the
>> motor burned out.
>>
>
> Panel breakers are there to protect the upstream wiring from excessive
> load current, not to protect the load.
>
> Matching the I-squared-t of a breaker, or fuse, to startup and running
> conditions of a motor is not trivial. Motors are subject to starting
> inrush currents sometimes tens of times the rated full-load current. Be
> guided by the data published by reputable manufacturers. There's plenty of
> it.
My ac compressor unit says, use 20 amp breaker. The wiring said nothing.
Greg
==============================================================================
TOPIC: Centronix gender?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/11a01a13e1df3c26?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 29 2014 7:51 pm
From: "Michael A. Terrell"
Cydrome Leader wrote:
>
> Michael A. Terrell <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote:
> >
> > gregz wrote:
> >>
> >> "Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote:
> >> > vjp2.at@at.BioStrategist.dot.dot.com wrote:
> >> >>
> >> >> I'm assuming the part that looks like a mouth with teeth (contacts) inwards
> >> >> is the female and the part that looks like a tongue with studs (contacts) on
> >> >> it is male?
> >> >
> >> >
> >> > Centronics. Centronics was a manufacturer of mainframe printers who
> >> > decided to use a standardized interface on their products, and it spread
> >> > across the industry over time. The original connectors were AMP Blue
> >> > Ribbon series 36 contact. Now part of TE Connectivity.
> >>
> >> We had quite a party trying to fix a centronics printer that was part of a
> >> minicomputer system. Late 70's design. Must of taken 3-4 rotating shifts
> >> of work.
> >> Don't remember the details, but a replacement was not at hand.
> >
> >
> > Those printers were very expensive, so not having a spare wasn't a
> > common occurrence. I hated the GE band printers, but I thought the Data
> > Products drum printers were interesting. Just don't print all 132
> > columns of the same character too often, or they would walk across the
> > floor. :)
>
> I had a Printronix P300 or P600 at home for a while. It had 4 or 5 large
> boards to make up the logic/interface and store the character ROMs. The
> giant 1/3rd HP sized induction motor inside of it was the best part.
>
> The other rediculous beast was a Florida Data dot matrix printer. It had
> the fastest carriage I've ever seen in any printer. The thing would rock
> any printer stand back and forth with ease.
Back in the days when plastic was just used for insulation & trim
parts. :)
== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 29 2014 7:54 pm
From: "Michael A. Terrell"
Cydrome Leader wrote:
>
> Michael A. Terrell wrote:
> >
> > I never soldered them. I used a crimper to install pins for a
> > new DB25. :)
>
> That reminds me of those white and red pin extractor tools. I just
> saw one pop up not too long ago.
I've used thin brass tubing when the right extractor wasn't
available. :)
==============================================================================
TOPIC: Surface mount PbF device coding
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/fc502f9aa94e682d?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Thurs, Jan 30 2014 2:39 am
From: N_Cook
and Renesas
http://www.renesas.eu/products/lead/specific_info/el/opto_rfmicrowave/index.jsp
==============================================================================
TOPIC: Get bestiphone repairs in Brisbane
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/34769c6c13e0e9cd?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Thurs, Jan 30 2014 3:29 am
From: Joel Eames
TotalFix Brisbane, Australia has professionally gained the reputation as leading repairer of smartphone and tablet under its fold. Especially for Samsung galaxy, TotalFix Brisbane stands unparallel in phone market. For more information please visit http://www.brisbaneiphonescreens.com.au/
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Google Groups: http://groups.google.com/?hl=en
sci.electronics.repair - 26 new messages in 8 topics - digest
sci.electronics.repair
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair?hl=en
sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com
Today's topics:
* Tools to View, Save & Edit Flash Drive Properties? - 2 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/f0fa0a23f84aeb57?hl=en
* Centronix gender? - 3 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/11a01a13e1df3c26?hl=en
* Active device nonsense - 5 messages, 4 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/58fd5bf0893d5f4a?hl=en
* Fuses in place of motor "heaters"? (induction motor protection) - 3 messages,
3 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/0933319a7c117739?hl=en
* Surface mount PbF device coding - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/fc502f9aa94e682d?hl=en
* Get bestiphone repairs in Brisbane - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/34769c6c13e0e9cd?hl=en
* Interchangeability of Panasonic Plasma TV A Boards - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/bf3862a637ece335?hl=en
* Trying to understand the current draw of a Samsung Galaxy S3 under GPS & low
battery - 10 messages, 3 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/1dceb0f9a68c6f2d?hl=en
==============================================================================
TOPIC: Tools to View, Save & Edit Flash Drive Properties?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/f0fa0a23f84aeb57?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 29 2014 7:28 pm
From: "hrhofmann@sbcglobal.net"
On Wednesday, January 29, 2014 10:10:28 AM UTC-6, KenO wrote:
> Have a Skymedi usb 1GB flash drive that somehow had its size increased. Was able to find the Skymedi Production Tool and tried to return this flash drive to its original properties by deleting the config.file but all this did was to change the property size to zero. Appreciate any tips or links concerning tools to view, save and edit Flash Drive properties. Thanks Ken
1GB drives are so cheap it is probably not worth spending much time on it.
== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Thurs, Jan 30 2014 5:32 pm
From: Adrian C
On 29/01/2014 16:10, KenO wrote:
> Have a Skymedi usb 1GB flash drive that somehow had its size increased.
>
> Was able to find the Skymedi Production Tool and tried to return this flash drive to its original properties by deleting the config.file but all this did was to change the property size to zero.
>
> Appreciate any tips or links concerning tools to view, save and edit Flash Drive properties.
Googling "fix fake flash" turns up a few sites with info on fixing these.
--
Adrian C
==============================================================================
TOPIC: Centronix gender?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/11a01a13e1df3c26?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 29 2014 7:51 pm
From: "Michael A. Terrell"
Cydrome Leader wrote:
>
> Michael A. Terrell <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote:
> >
> > gregz wrote:
> >>
> >> "Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote:
> >> > vjp2.at@at.BioStrategist.dot.dot.com wrote:
> >> >>
> >> >> I'm assuming the part that looks like a mouth with teeth (contacts) inwards
> >> >> is the female and the part that looks like a tongue with studs (contacts) on
> >> >> it is male?
> >> >
> >> >
> >> > Centronics. Centronics was a manufacturer of mainframe printers who
> >> > decided to use a standardized interface on their products, and it spread
> >> > across the industry over time. The original connectors were AMP Blue
> >> > Ribbon series 36 contact. Now part of TE Connectivity.
> >>
> >> We had quite a party trying to fix a centronics printer that was part of a
> >> minicomputer system. Late 70's design. Must of taken 3-4 rotating shifts
> >> of work.
> >> Don't remember the details, but a replacement was not at hand.
> >
> >
> > Those printers were very expensive, so not having a spare wasn't a
> > common occurrence. I hated the GE band printers, but I thought the Data
> > Products drum printers were interesting. Just don't print all 132
> > columns of the same character too often, or they would walk across the
> > floor. :)
>
> I had a Printronix P300 or P600 at home for a while. It had 4 or 5 large
> boards to make up the logic/interface and store the character ROMs. The
> giant 1/3rd HP sized induction motor inside of it was the best part.
>
> The other rediculous beast was a Florida Data dot matrix printer. It had
> the fastest carriage I've ever seen in any printer. The thing would rock
> any printer stand back and forth with ease.
Back in the days when plastic was just used for insulation & trim
parts. :)
== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 29 2014 7:54 pm
From: "Michael A. Terrell"
Cydrome Leader wrote:
>
> Michael A. Terrell wrote:
> >
> > I never soldered them. I used a crimper to install pins for a
> > new DB25. :)
>
> That reminds me of those white and red pin extractor tools. I just
> saw one pop up not too long ago.
I've used thin brass tubing when the right extractor wasn't
available. :)
== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Thurs, Jan 30 2014 3:20 pm
From: Cydrome Leader
Michael A. Terrell <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote:
>
> Cydrome Leader wrote:
>>
>> Michael A. Terrell wrote:
>> >
>> > I never soldered them. I used a crimper to install pins for a
>> > new DB25. :)
>>
>> That reminds me of those white and red pin extractor tools. I just
>> saw one pop up not too long ago.
>
>
> I've used thin brass tubing when the right extractor wasn't
> available. :)
It's always the last pin or shell that just won't come out or has the
locking splays break off during the battle to be removed.
==============================================================================
TOPIC: Active device nonsense
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/58fd5bf0893d5f4a?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 5 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 29 2014 8:05 pm
From: "Michael A. Terrell"
Jerry Peters wrote:
>
> Kaz Kylheku <kaz@kylheku.com> wrote:
> > On 2014-01-28, jurb6006@gmail.com <jurb6006@gmail.com> wrote:
> >> If a diode is not active, why ? You can modulate with it. You can switch with it. This can be done with solid state diodes or otherwise.
> >
> > A diode is not active by itself, because it's a two-port circuit. There is no
> > way for it to have an input which controls an output.
>
> Switching diode which switches an AC signal with a DC signal. It's
> been done for years.
>
> PIN diode which can switch or attenuate an RF signal with a DC
> current.
We used them as band switches in a low noise synthesizer. A DC
voltage would turn the diode on to short out part of the inductor,
raising the center frequency of the VCO. Breaking the 360-510 MHz into
four overlapping segments allowed for more linear and reduced the
effects of noise on the tuning voltage that controlled the tuning.
== 2 of 5 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 29 2014 11:09 pm
From: Mike Tomlinson
En el artículo <lcca2a$hfc$1@dont-email.me>, William Sommerwerck
<grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> escribió:
>The remarks made here are classic examples of opening one's mouth and stating
>whatever pops into one's head, without giving it the least bit of thought.
Welcome to Usenet. :-)
--
(\_/)
(='.'=)
(")_(")
== 3 of 5 ==
Date: Thurs, Jan 30 2014 7:09 am
From: "William Sommerwerck"
"Phil Allison" wrote in message news:bktqlnFbe8aU1@mid.individual.net...
>> Otherwise, you could twist the definition so that any and every
>> electronic component was an active device.
** Define "electronic component" to mean only those items that are
exclusively electronic in nature and you have got it.
What do you mean by "electronic"? Aren't /all/ devices used in electronic
equipment "electronic" /by definition/?
> The term "active device" cannot be defined OUT OF CONTEXT !!!!!!
True -- the context is amplification.
> I say it includes to ANY vacuum tube or semiconductor intended
> to be used in an electronic circuit - cos that is how most folk
> working IN ELECTRONICS use it and dealer's catalogues reflect
> the fact, too.
I don't care what most people think. I only care about the truth. To call an
ordinary rectifier an active component is beyond stupid. It is not "active",
in any reasonable sense of the term.
Phil, you're like most human beings. You believe what you want to believe,
without thinking about it.
> And Wiki agrees with ME !!!!!
The article is wrong. Too bad.
== 4 of 5 ==
Date: Thurs, Jan 30 2014 7:48 am
From: "William Sommerwerck"
Let's look at this (non-)issue in a broader sense. What was the point of
applying the adjective "active" to particular devices?
"Obviously", it was to distinguish them from non-active devices. And prior to
the Audion, there /were/ no active devices -- devices that /amplified/.
Several years ago we had an insane argument, in which a significant number of
posters claimed that transducers were amplifiers, twisting the definitions of
these terms into perverse forms.
We are now told that a PIN diode -- which is no more than a switch -- is an
active device, apparently because it's made of semiconductor material, which
/just happens/ to be used in active devices. So -- duh -- they must both be
active devices.
What does the material have to do with it? A switch is a switch. Switches are
not, and have never been, considered active devices. Do PIN diodes get a
special break, just because they're semiconductors? Are we now supposed to
classify the power switch on a table radio as an active device?
Calling an electrical generator an active device is meaningless, because it
doesn't draw any useful distinction with "inactive" devices (such as a rake or
a step ladder). An if an electrical generator is an "active" device, why isn't
a log? A log can be burned to produce energy.
Human beings are incredibly stupid. They believe what their parents tell them,
and almost always stick ferociously to their childhood beliefs throughout
life. They believe that whatever pops into their heads is true, and these
beliefs can only rarely be shaken. Worst of all, humans hardly ever ask "How
do I know whether something is true or not?" Of course, in a democracy it
doesn't matter. One person's point of view is as good as any other person's.
== 5 of 5 ==
Date: Thurs, Jan 30 2014 8:39 am
From: jurb6006@gmail.com
Whatever it is, I believe that quite possibly by now the OP has been committed to a sanitarium.
==============================================================================
TOPIC: Fuses in place of motor "heaters"? (induction motor protection)
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/0933319a7c117739?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 29 2014 8:20 pm
From: "Michael A. Terrell"
bud-- wrote:
>
> Must be another alwayswrong sock puppet.
No, this is a different character. A psychotic Aussie.
== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 29 2014 9:23 pm
From: gregz
Fred Abse <excretatauris@invalid.invalid> wrote:
> On Sun, 26 Jan 2014 08:13:56 -0500, Jim Wilkins wrote:
>
>> "DoN. Nichols" <BPdnicholsBP@d-and-d.com> wrote in message
>> news:slrnle97cu.5kc.BPdnicholsBP@Katana.d-and-d.com...
>>> On 2014-01-25, Jim Wilkins <muratlanne@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Why do you need two fuses for a single-phase motor?
>>>
>>> In the UK, you don't, because 240 VAC comes with one side grounded.
>>> However, in the USA, 240 VAC is normally supplied with a grounded center
>>> tap, so if you have only one fuse -- or have two but only one blows, you
>>> still have 120 VAC live in the motor's housing, and
>>> potentially available for contact and personal zapping. :-)
>>>
>>>
>> I assumed it was wired with a 20A double-pole breaker at the panel
>> protecting from shorts and a smaller fuse sized (how?) to blow before the
>> motor burned out.
>>
>
> Panel breakers are there to protect the upstream wiring from excessive
> load current, not to protect the load.
>
> Matching the I-squared-t of a breaker, or fuse, to startup and running
> conditions of a motor is not trivial. Motors are subject to starting
> inrush currents sometimes tens of times the rated full-load current. Be
> guided by the data published by reputable manufacturers. There's plenty of
> it.
My ac compressor unit says, use 20 amp breaker. The wiring said nothing.
Greg
== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Thurs, Jan 30 2014 7:58 am
From: bud--
On 1/29/2014 11:23 PM, gregz wrote:
> Fred Abse <excretatauris@invalid.invalid> wrote:
>> On Sun, 26 Jan 2014 08:13:56 -0500, Jim Wilkins wrote:
>>
>>> "DoN. Nichols" <BPdnicholsBP@d-and-d.com> wrote in message
>>> news:slrnle97cu.5kc.BPdnicholsBP@Katana.d-and-d.com...
>>>> On 2014-01-25, Jim Wilkins <muratlanne@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> Why do you need two fuses for a single-phase motor?
>>>>
>>>> In the UK, you don't, because 240 VAC comes with one side grounded.
>>>> However, in the USA, 240 VAC is normally supplied with a grounded center
>>>> tap, so if you have only one fuse -- or have two but only one blows, you
>>>> still have 120 VAC live in the motor's housing, and
>>>> potentially available for contact and personal zapping. :-)
>>>>
>>>>
>>> I assumed it was wired with a 20A double-pole breaker at the panel
>>> protecting from shorts and a smaller fuse sized (how?) to blow before the
>>> motor burned out.
>>>
>>
>> Panel breakers are there to protect the upstream wiring from excessive
>> load current, not to protect the load.
>>
>> Matching the I-squared-t of a breaker, or fuse, to startup and running
>> conditions of a motor is not trivial. Motors are subject to starting
>> inrush currents sometimes tens of times the rated full-load current. Be
>> guided by the data published by reputable manufacturers. There's plenty of
>> it.
>
>
> My ac compressor unit says, use 20 amp breaker. The wiring said nothing.
>
The manufacturer tells you what size breaker will withstand the starting
current and provide protection from manor failures.
Overload protection is very likely a thermal trip on the compressor.
Small fans are "impedance" protected.
==============================================================================
TOPIC: Surface mount PbF device coding
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/fc502f9aa94e682d?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Thurs, Jan 30 2014 2:39 am
From: N_Cook
and Renesas
http://www.renesas.eu/products/lead/specific_info/el/opto_rfmicrowave/index.jsp
==============================================================================
TOPIC: Get bestiphone repairs in Brisbane
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/34769c6c13e0e9cd?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Thurs, Jan 30 2014 3:29 am
From: Joel Eames
TotalFix Brisbane, Australia has professionally gained the reputation as leading repairer of smartphone and tablet under its fold. Especially for Samsung galaxy, TotalFix Brisbane stands unparallel in phone market. For more information please visit http://www.brisbaneiphonescreens.com.au/
==============================================================================
TOPIC: Interchangeability of Panasonic Plasma TV A Boards
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/bf3862a637ece335?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Thurs, Jan 30 2014 3:01 pm
From: packrat1979@gmail.com
I have a Panasonic TH-50PX80U with a defective A board (mainboard). The service manual lists it as part # TNPH0716ABS, but the board itself has a "2A" instead of ABS suffix. I've looked around for a replacement, but can only find boards with the A, AG, or AGS suffix (the -ABS are all out of stock), listed as fitting the similar model TH-42PX80U.
So my question is, are any of these boards interchangeable? Will a mainboard from the 42" version work on the 50", and does the suffix or lack of it on the part number make a difference?
Thanks for any advice.
==============================================================================
TOPIC: Trying to understand the current draw of a Samsung Galaxy S3 under GPS &
low battery
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/1dceb0f9a68c6f2d?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 10 ==
Date: Thurs, Jan 30 2014 10:53 pm
From: "Danny D."
Today I hurled enough invectives at my Samsung Galaxy S3
to make a whore blush, simply because the GPS wouldn't
work under power.
More specifically, the cigarette lighter car charger is
reputed to be 2.1 Amps, while the standard wall charger
is only 850 mA, so, the 2.1 Amps should have been plenty
to both charge and run the Samsung Galaxy S3.
The battery was down to 17% when all the mischief started
occurring. The GPS kept saying over the bluetooth "GPS
signal lost", "GPS signal re-acquired", over and over
and over and over again, within ten seconds of each other,
such that the GPS was useless - and - worse yet - the
battery went lower and lower until the phone finally
shut off.
Yet, after charging it for an hour on the car, with
the phone off, it got up to about 65%, and then I used
the GPS on the road for another hour, and it STAYED at
65% battery.
What on earth is going on?
Why would a 2.1 Amp charger not be enough to both charge
and run the phone, and why would it lose charge when the
battery is at 17% yet it maintains charge when the battery
is at 65%?
Does any of this make sense to you?
== 2 of 10 ==
Date: Thurs, Jan 30 2014 10:59 pm
From: Andy Burns
Danny D. wrote:
> Why would a 2.1 Amp charger not be enough to both charge
> and run the phone
Does the phone detect the charger as capable of delivering high current?
If so, it should display "Charging A/C" instead of "Charging USB"
unless Samsung have hobbled that part of Android.
== 3 of 10 ==
Date: Thurs, Jan 30 2014 11:31 pm
From: Danny D'Amico
On Fri, 31 Jan 2014 06:59:53 +0000, Andy Burns wrote:
> Does the phone detect the charger as capable of delivering high current?
> If so, it should display "Charging A/C" instead of "Charging USB"
> unless Samsung have hobbled that part of Android.
Hmmmmmmmm...... I never saw either "charging A/C" or "charging USB".
All I see is a lightning bolt and a percentage in the icon bar.
http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3755/12232054495_b0d9fb71fe_o.gif
However, I just downloaded a bunch of battery-monitor apps to see if
they can help me identify the S3 battery drain problem.
In addition, googling, I found this disturbing reference:
http://forums.androidcentral.com/t-mobile-galaxy-s-iii-accessories/185776-2-amp-charger.html
Which says:
"a lot of 2A chargers are designed for iDevices and their weird way of the
charger signaling to the device that it is ok to draw max power. Absent
fairly specific voltages on the data lines iDevices will either assume they
are connected to a computer and only draw 500mA, or they won't charge at all.
However, most non-iDevices simply look for the two data lines to be shorted
together to let them know they are connected to a dedicated high power charger
and not a computer. That means that most non-iDevices will not recognize 2A
chargers that are designed for Apple products as being high-power and so the
phone will only draw 500mA even hooked up to a 2A charger."
If that statement above is true, then my reputed 2.1 Amp car USB charger
could only be sourcing 500 mA to the Galaxy S3.
== 4 of 10 ==
Date: Thurs, Jan 30 2014 11:35 pm
From: Danny D'Amico
On Fri, 31 Jan 2014 07:31:47 +0000, Danny D'Amico wrote:
> If that statement above is true, then my reputed 2.1 Amp car USB charger
> could only be sourcing 500 mA to the Galaxy S3.
Here is another reference that intimates that a standard USB cable
under all conditions only allows 500mA to go into the Samsung Galaxy S3:
http://forums.androidcentral.com/samsung-galaxy-s3/195415-max-safe-amps-car-charger-us.html
"With a standard USB data cable the phone recognizes it as a USB charging
source and only pulls 500 mA. You can get "charging only" cables allowing
higher (still safe) amperage"
== 5 of 10 ==
Date: Fri, Jan 31 2014 12:04 am
From: Danny D'Amico
On Fri, 31 Jan 2014 06:59:53 +0000, Andy Burns wrote:
> it should display "Charging A/C" instead of "Charging USB"
> unless Samsung have hobbled that part of Android.
I appreciate that wonderful advice!
It took me a while to FIND what you were talking about on my
T-Mobile Samsung Galaxy S3 with Android 4.3 installed.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7366/12232358615_bb6f4d8d5a_o.jpg
I found the "type" of charging when I went to Android 4.3:
Settings->More->About Device->Status
A. When hooked to a PC USB port, it said "Charging (USB)".
B. When hooked to a wall USB port, it said "Charging (AC)".
C. Tomorrow I will test what it says in the car & report back!
== 6 of 10 ==
Date: Fri, Jan 31 2014 12:13 am
From: Danny D'Amico
On Fri, 31 Jan 2014 06:53:54 +0000, Danny D. wrote:
> 2.1 Amps should have been plenty to both charge and run the
> Samsung Galaxy S3.
Googling some more, it seems the most the Samsung Galaxy S3
will every draw is 900 mA, at least according to this:
http://forums.androidcentral.com/samsung-galaxy-s3/306607-2-amp-charger-s3.html
"Tests done by users over in xda-developers show [the Samsung Galaxy S3]
limits the amount of current the battery can draw to about 0.9 amps
regardless of the current available ... Also when the battery is fully
charged it shuts down totally -- it doesn't continue trickle charging like
simpler chargers."
== 7 of 10 ==
Date: Fri, Jan 31 2014 12:17 am
From: Danny D'Amico
On Fri, 31 Jan 2014 07:35:57 +0000, Danny D'Amico wrote:
> "With a standard USB data cable the phone recognizes it as a USB charging
> source and only pulls 500 mA. You can get "charging only" cables
> allowing higher (still safe) amperage"
Googling for what the difference is between a data & charging cable,
I find this reference:
http://forums.androidcentral.com/samsung-galaxy-s3/306607-2-amp-charger-s3.html
Which says:
The two types of cable are a "charge only" cable and a full data cable.
In order to distinguish which type of port they're connected to and therefore
know how much power can be drawn phones examine the two inside "data" wires
on the USB connection. If they are shorted together the phone says hey I'm
plugged into a charging port and can draw max amps and it reports it as "AC"
--if they are not shorted then it limits amp draw to 0.5amps and reports it
as " USB". Note that some wall wart modules short the data pins internally
--with those you can use any cable and pull max. Others don't so in order
to pull over 0.5amps you must use a special "charging only" USB cable that
does the shorting in the cable--these will NOT work for data usage.
Apple phones do something similar but instead of shorting the data pair
they change the voltage on one data wire.
== 8 of 10 ==
Date: Fri, Jan 31 2014 12:52 am
From: Danny D'Amico
On Fri, 31 Jan 2014 08:13:23 +0000, Danny D'Amico wrote:
> Googling some more, it seems the most the Samsung Galaxy S3 will every
> draw is 900 mA
It seems, that in the car, the problem is that we probably shouldn't
use Apple USB chargers, unless we use special cables:
At least that is what is implied here:
http://forums.androidcentral.com/samsung-galaxy-s3/195415-max-safe-amps-car-charger-us.html
Apples 10W/2A charger puts 2.8v on one of the data lines and 2v on the other
(I forget which is which) to tell an iPad that it can pull up to 2A.
Earlier iphone/ipod wall chargers put 2v on each data line which will
limit the device draw to 500mA. This is why you need to use a "charging cable" with
wall/car chargers made for apple products. The Apple oriented chargers do not
internally short the data lines so most android phones will treat it like a 500mA
source. The charger that ships with your android phone has the data lines shorted
internally so it doesn't matter what cable you use.
== 9 of 10 ==
Date: Fri, Jan 31 2014 1:01 am
From: Danny D'Amico
On Fri, 31 Jan 2014 06:53:54 +0000, Danny D. wrote:
> Does any of this make sense to you?
What's going on when GPS is enabled while the S3 is on the car charger is
just starting to make sense now, with respect to the current draw:
http://forums.androidcentral.com/samsung-galaxy-s3/195415-max-safe-amps-car-charger-us-2.html
The S3 uses the defined Micro USB charging standard.
If the charger or cable has the data lines shorted, the S3 thinks it is on an AC charger.
If the data lines are not shorted, the S3 thinks it is plugged into a USB port on a PC.
When the S3 thinks it is plugged into an AC charger, the S3 pulls a maximum current of about 800ma.
If the charger is LESS then 800ma. the phone may fall back to the lower current of a USB port.
When the S3 is plugged into a USB port (where the data lines are not shorted),
then the S3 pulls a miximum current of between 300ma and 400ma.
If the charger DOES have shorted data lines, but it can't handle the 800ma
AC charger setting, the phone falls back to the lower USB port rate of about 300ma.
== 10 of 10 ==
Date: Fri, Jan 31 2014 3:56 am
From: Danny D'Amico
On Fri, 31 Jan 2014 09:01:09 +0000, Danny D'Amico wrote:
> Does any of this make sense to you?
Another quote from the same thread, which is instructive:
http://forums.androidcentral.com/samsung-galaxy-s3/195415-max-safe-amps-car-charger-us-2.html#post2997829
Most batteries can handle a charge rate of 1xcapacity.
In the case of the Samsung S3 the battery is 2100mA capacity.
Therefore, the S3 can be safely charged at 2.1A.
The battery has no regulator in it and it not smart in any way.
The S3 has a circuit built in to properly charge a lithium ion
battery and can regulate the source current as needed.
==============================================================================
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Google Groups: http://groups.google.com/?hl=en
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair?hl=en
sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com
Today's topics:
* Tools to View, Save & Edit Flash Drive Properties? - 2 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/f0fa0a23f84aeb57?hl=en
* Centronix gender? - 3 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/11a01a13e1df3c26?hl=en
* Active device nonsense - 5 messages, 4 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/58fd5bf0893d5f4a?hl=en
* Fuses in place of motor "heaters"? (induction motor protection) - 3 messages,
3 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/0933319a7c117739?hl=en
* Surface mount PbF device coding - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/fc502f9aa94e682d?hl=en
* Get bestiphone repairs in Brisbane - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/34769c6c13e0e9cd?hl=en
* Interchangeability of Panasonic Plasma TV A Boards - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/bf3862a637ece335?hl=en
* Trying to understand the current draw of a Samsung Galaxy S3 under GPS & low
battery - 10 messages, 3 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/1dceb0f9a68c6f2d?hl=en
==============================================================================
TOPIC: Tools to View, Save & Edit Flash Drive Properties?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/f0fa0a23f84aeb57?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 29 2014 7:28 pm
From: "hrhofmann@sbcglobal.net"
On Wednesday, January 29, 2014 10:10:28 AM UTC-6, KenO wrote:
> Have a Skymedi usb 1GB flash drive that somehow had its size increased. Was able to find the Skymedi Production Tool and tried to return this flash drive to its original properties by deleting the config.file but all this did was to change the property size to zero. Appreciate any tips or links concerning tools to view, save and edit Flash Drive properties. Thanks Ken
1GB drives are so cheap it is probably not worth spending much time on it.
== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Thurs, Jan 30 2014 5:32 pm
From: Adrian C
On 29/01/2014 16:10, KenO wrote:
> Have a Skymedi usb 1GB flash drive that somehow had its size increased.
>
> Was able to find the Skymedi Production Tool and tried to return this flash drive to its original properties by deleting the config.file but all this did was to change the property size to zero.
>
> Appreciate any tips or links concerning tools to view, save and edit Flash Drive properties.
Googling "fix fake flash" turns up a few sites with info on fixing these.
--
Adrian C
==============================================================================
TOPIC: Centronix gender?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/11a01a13e1df3c26?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 29 2014 7:51 pm
From: "Michael A. Terrell"
Cydrome Leader wrote:
>
> Michael A. Terrell <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote:
> >
> > gregz wrote:
> >>
> >> "Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote:
> >> > vjp2.at@at.BioStrategist.dot.dot.com wrote:
> >> >>
> >> >> I'm assuming the part that looks like a mouth with teeth (contacts) inwards
> >> >> is the female and the part that looks like a tongue with studs (contacts) on
> >> >> it is male?
> >> >
> >> >
> >> > Centronics. Centronics was a manufacturer of mainframe printers who
> >> > decided to use a standardized interface on their products, and it spread
> >> > across the industry over time. The original connectors were AMP Blue
> >> > Ribbon series 36 contact. Now part of TE Connectivity.
> >>
> >> We had quite a party trying to fix a centronics printer that was part of a
> >> minicomputer system. Late 70's design. Must of taken 3-4 rotating shifts
> >> of work.
> >> Don't remember the details, but a replacement was not at hand.
> >
> >
> > Those printers were very expensive, so not having a spare wasn't a
> > common occurrence. I hated the GE band printers, but I thought the Data
> > Products drum printers were interesting. Just don't print all 132
> > columns of the same character too often, or they would walk across the
> > floor. :)
>
> I had a Printronix P300 or P600 at home for a while. It had 4 or 5 large
> boards to make up the logic/interface and store the character ROMs. The
> giant 1/3rd HP sized induction motor inside of it was the best part.
>
> The other rediculous beast was a Florida Data dot matrix printer. It had
> the fastest carriage I've ever seen in any printer. The thing would rock
> any printer stand back and forth with ease.
Back in the days when plastic was just used for insulation & trim
parts. :)
== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 29 2014 7:54 pm
From: "Michael A. Terrell"
Cydrome Leader wrote:
>
> Michael A. Terrell wrote:
> >
> > I never soldered them. I used a crimper to install pins for a
> > new DB25. :)
>
> That reminds me of those white and red pin extractor tools. I just
> saw one pop up not too long ago.
I've used thin brass tubing when the right extractor wasn't
available. :)
== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Thurs, Jan 30 2014 3:20 pm
From: Cydrome Leader
Michael A. Terrell <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote:
>
> Cydrome Leader wrote:
>>
>> Michael A. Terrell wrote:
>> >
>> > I never soldered them. I used a crimper to install pins for a
>> > new DB25. :)
>>
>> That reminds me of those white and red pin extractor tools. I just
>> saw one pop up not too long ago.
>
>
> I've used thin brass tubing when the right extractor wasn't
> available. :)
It's always the last pin or shell that just won't come out or has the
locking splays break off during the battle to be removed.
==============================================================================
TOPIC: Active device nonsense
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/58fd5bf0893d5f4a?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 5 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 29 2014 8:05 pm
From: "Michael A. Terrell"
Jerry Peters wrote:
>
> Kaz Kylheku <kaz@kylheku.com> wrote:
> > On 2014-01-28, jurb6006@gmail.com <jurb6006@gmail.com> wrote:
> >> If a diode is not active, why ? You can modulate with it. You can switch with it. This can be done with solid state diodes or otherwise.
> >
> > A diode is not active by itself, because it's a two-port circuit. There is no
> > way for it to have an input which controls an output.
>
> Switching diode which switches an AC signal with a DC signal. It's
> been done for years.
>
> PIN diode which can switch or attenuate an RF signal with a DC
> current.
We used them as band switches in a low noise synthesizer. A DC
voltage would turn the diode on to short out part of the inductor,
raising the center frequency of the VCO. Breaking the 360-510 MHz into
four overlapping segments allowed for more linear and reduced the
effects of noise on the tuning voltage that controlled the tuning.
== 2 of 5 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 29 2014 11:09 pm
From: Mike Tomlinson
En el artículo <lcca2a$hfc$1@dont-email.me>, William Sommerwerck
<grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> escribió:
>The remarks made here are classic examples of opening one's mouth and stating
>whatever pops into one's head, without giving it the least bit of thought.
Welcome to Usenet. :-)
--
(\_/)
(='.'=)
(")_(")
== 3 of 5 ==
Date: Thurs, Jan 30 2014 7:09 am
From: "William Sommerwerck"
"Phil Allison" wrote in message news:bktqlnFbe8aU1@mid.individual.net...
>> Otherwise, you could twist the definition so that any and every
>> electronic component was an active device.
** Define "electronic component" to mean only those items that are
exclusively electronic in nature and you have got it.
What do you mean by "electronic"? Aren't /all/ devices used in electronic
equipment "electronic" /by definition/?
> The term "active device" cannot be defined OUT OF CONTEXT !!!!!!
True -- the context is amplification.
> I say it includes to ANY vacuum tube or semiconductor intended
> to be used in an electronic circuit - cos that is how most folk
> working IN ELECTRONICS use it and dealer's catalogues reflect
> the fact, too.
I don't care what most people think. I only care about the truth. To call an
ordinary rectifier an active component is beyond stupid. It is not "active",
in any reasonable sense of the term.
Phil, you're like most human beings. You believe what you want to believe,
without thinking about it.
> And Wiki agrees with ME !!!!!
The article is wrong. Too bad.
== 4 of 5 ==
Date: Thurs, Jan 30 2014 7:48 am
From: "William Sommerwerck"
Let's look at this (non-)issue in a broader sense. What was the point of
applying the adjective "active" to particular devices?
"Obviously", it was to distinguish them from non-active devices. And prior to
the Audion, there /were/ no active devices -- devices that /amplified/.
Several years ago we had an insane argument, in which a significant number of
posters claimed that transducers were amplifiers, twisting the definitions of
these terms into perverse forms.
We are now told that a PIN diode -- which is no more than a switch -- is an
active device, apparently because it's made of semiconductor material, which
/just happens/ to be used in active devices. So -- duh -- they must both be
active devices.
What does the material have to do with it? A switch is a switch. Switches are
not, and have never been, considered active devices. Do PIN diodes get a
special break, just because they're semiconductors? Are we now supposed to
classify the power switch on a table radio as an active device?
Calling an electrical generator an active device is meaningless, because it
doesn't draw any useful distinction with "inactive" devices (such as a rake or
a step ladder). An if an electrical generator is an "active" device, why isn't
a log? A log can be burned to produce energy.
Human beings are incredibly stupid. They believe what their parents tell them,
and almost always stick ferociously to their childhood beliefs throughout
life. They believe that whatever pops into their heads is true, and these
beliefs can only rarely be shaken. Worst of all, humans hardly ever ask "How
do I know whether something is true or not?" Of course, in a democracy it
doesn't matter. One person's point of view is as good as any other person's.
== 5 of 5 ==
Date: Thurs, Jan 30 2014 8:39 am
From: jurb6006@gmail.com
Whatever it is, I believe that quite possibly by now the OP has been committed to a sanitarium.
==============================================================================
TOPIC: Fuses in place of motor "heaters"? (induction motor protection)
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/0933319a7c117739?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 29 2014 8:20 pm
From: "Michael A. Terrell"
bud-- wrote:
>
> Must be another alwayswrong sock puppet.
No, this is a different character. A psychotic Aussie.
== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 29 2014 9:23 pm
From: gregz
Fred Abse <excretatauris@invalid.invalid> wrote:
> On Sun, 26 Jan 2014 08:13:56 -0500, Jim Wilkins wrote:
>
>> "DoN. Nichols" <BPdnicholsBP@d-and-d.com> wrote in message
>> news:slrnle97cu.5kc.BPdnicholsBP@Katana.d-and-d.com...
>>> On 2014-01-25, Jim Wilkins <muratlanne@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Why do you need two fuses for a single-phase motor?
>>>
>>> In the UK, you don't, because 240 VAC comes with one side grounded.
>>> However, in the USA, 240 VAC is normally supplied with a grounded center
>>> tap, so if you have only one fuse -- or have two but only one blows, you
>>> still have 120 VAC live in the motor's housing, and
>>> potentially available for contact and personal zapping. :-)
>>>
>>>
>> I assumed it was wired with a 20A double-pole breaker at the panel
>> protecting from shorts and a smaller fuse sized (how?) to blow before the
>> motor burned out.
>>
>
> Panel breakers are there to protect the upstream wiring from excessive
> load current, not to protect the load.
>
> Matching the I-squared-t of a breaker, or fuse, to startup and running
> conditions of a motor is not trivial. Motors are subject to starting
> inrush currents sometimes tens of times the rated full-load current. Be
> guided by the data published by reputable manufacturers. There's plenty of
> it.
My ac compressor unit says, use 20 amp breaker. The wiring said nothing.
Greg
== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Thurs, Jan 30 2014 7:58 am
From: bud--
On 1/29/2014 11:23 PM, gregz wrote:
> Fred Abse <excretatauris@invalid.invalid> wrote:
>> On Sun, 26 Jan 2014 08:13:56 -0500, Jim Wilkins wrote:
>>
>>> "DoN. Nichols" <BPdnicholsBP@d-and-d.com> wrote in message
>>> news:slrnle97cu.5kc.BPdnicholsBP@Katana.d-and-d.com...
>>>> On 2014-01-25, Jim Wilkins <muratlanne@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> Why do you need two fuses for a single-phase motor?
>>>>
>>>> In the UK, you don't, because 240 VAC comes with one side grounded.
>>>> However, in the USA, 240 VAC is normally supplied with a grounded center
>>>> tap, so if you have only one fuse -- or have two but only one blows, you
>>>> still have 120 VAC live in the motor's housing, and
>>>> potentially available for contact and personal zapping. :-)
>>>>
>>>>
>>> I assumed it was wired with a 20A double-pole breaker at the panel
>>> protecting from shorts and a smaller fuse sized (how?) to blow before the
>>> motor burned out.
>>>
>>
>> Panel breakers are there to protect the upstream wiring from excessive
>> load current, not to protect the load.
>>
>> Matching the I-squared-t of a breaker, or fuse, to startup and running
>> conditions of a motor is not trivial. Motors are subject to starting
>> inrush currents sometimes tens of times the rated full-load current. Be
>> guided by the data published by reputable manufacturers. There's plenty of
>> it.
>
>
> My ac compressor unit says, use 20 amp breaker. The wiring said nothing.
>
The manufacturer tells you what size breaker will withstand the starting
current and provide protection from manor failures.
Overload protection is very likely a thermal trip on the compressor.
Small fans are "impedance" protected.
==============================================================================
TOPIC: Surface mount PbF device coding
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/fc502f9aa94e682d?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Thurs, Jan 30 2014 2:39 am
From: N_Cook
and Renesas
http://www.renesas.eu/products/lead/specific_info/el/opto_rfmicrowave/index.jsp
==============================================================================
TOPIC: Get bestiphone repairs in Brisbane
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/34769c6c13e0e9cd?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Thurs, Jan 30 2014 3:29 am
From: Joel Eames
TotalFix Brisbane, Australia has professionally gained the reputation as leading repairer of smartphone and tablet under its fold. Especially for Samsung galaxy, TotalFix Brisbane stands unparallel in phone market. For more information please visit http://www.brisbaneiphonescreens.com.au/
==============================================================================
TOPIC: Interchangeability of Panasonic Plasma TV A Boards
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/bf3862a637ece335?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Thurs, Jan 30 2014 3:01 pm
From: packrat1979@gmail.com
I have a Panasonic TH-50PX80U with a defective A board (mainboard). The service manual lists it as part # TNPH0716ABS, but the board itself has a "2A" instead of ABS suffix. I've looked around for a replacement, but can only find boards with the A, AG, or AGS suffix (the -ABS are all out of stock), listed as fitting the similar model TH-42PX80U.
So my question is, are any of these boards interchangeable? Will a mainboard from the 42" version work on the 50", and does the suffix or lack of it on the part number make a difference?
Thanks for any advice.
==============================================================================
TOPIC: Trying to understand the current draw of a Samsung Galaxy S3 under GPS &
low battery
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/1dceb0f9a68c6f2d?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 10 ==
Date: Thurs, Jan 30 2014 10:53 pm
From: "Danny D."
Today I hurled enough invectives at my Samsung Galaxy S3
to make a whore blush, simply because the GPS wouldn't
work under power.
More specifically, the cigarette lighter car charger is
reputed to be 2.1 Amps, while the standard wall charger
is only 850 mA, so, the 2.1 Amps should have been plenty
to both charge and run the Samsung Galaxy S3.
The battery was down to 17% when all the mischief started
occurring. The GPS kept saying over the bluetooth "GPS
signal lost", "GPS signal re-acquired", over and over
and over and over again, within ten seconds of each other,
such that the GPS was useless - and - worse yet - the
battery went lower and lower until the phone finally
shut off.
Yet, after charging it for an hour on the car, with
the phone off, it got up to about 65%, and then I used
the GPS on the road for another hour, and it STAYED at
65% battery.
What on earth is going on?
Why would a 2.1 Amp charger not be enough to both charge
and run the phone, and why would it lose charge when the
battery is at 17% yet it maintains charge when the battery
is at 65%?
Does any of this make sense to you?
== 2 of 10 ==
Date: Thurs, Jan 30 2014 10:59 pm
From: Andy Burns
Danny D. wrote:
> Why would a 2.1 Amp charger not be enough to both charge
> and run the phone
Does the phone detect the charger as capable of delivering high current?
If so, it should display "Charging A/C" instead of "Charging USB"
unless Samsung have hobbled that part of Android.
== 3 of 10 ==
Date: Thurs, Jan 30 2014 11:31 pm
From: Danny D'Amico
On Fri, 31 Jan 2014 06:59:53 +0000, Andy Burns wrote:
> Does the phone detect the charger as capable of delivering high current?
> If so, it should display "Charging A/C" instead of "Charging USB"
> unless Samsung have hobbled that part of Android.
Hmmmmmmmm...... I never saw either "charging A/C" or "charging USB".
All I see is a lightning bolt and a percentage in the icon bar.
http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3755/12232054495_b0d9fb71fe_o.gif
However, I just downloaded a bunch of battery-monitor apps to see if
they can help me identify the S3 battery drain problem.
In addition, googling, I found this disturbing reference:
http://forums.androidcentral.com/t-mobile-galaxy-s-iii-accessories/185776-2-amp-charger.html
Which says:
"a lot of 2A chargers are designed for iDevices and their weird way of the
charger signaling to the device that it is ok to draw max power. Absent
fairly specific voltages on the data lines iDevices will either assume they
are connected to a computer and only draw 500mA, or they won't charge at all.
However, most non-iDevices simply look for the two data lines to be shorted
together to let them know they are connected to a dedicated high power charger
and not a computer. That means that most non-iDevices will not recognize 2A
chargers that are designed for Apple products as being high-power and so the
phone will only draw 500mA even hooked up to a 2A charger."
If that statement above is true, then my reputed 2.1 Amp car USB charger
could only be sourcing 500 mA to the Galaxy S3.
== 4 of 10 ==
Date: Thurs, Jan 30 2014 11:35 pm
From: Danny D'Amico
On Fri, 31 Jan 2014 07:31:47 +0000, Danny D'Amico wrote:
> If that statement above is true, then my reputed 2.1 Amp car USB charger
> could only be sourcing 500 mA to the Galaxy S3.
Here is another reference that intimates that a standard USB cable
under all conditions only allows 500mA to go into the Samsung Galaxy S3:
http://forums.androidcentral.com/samsung-galaxy-s3/195415-max-safe-amps-car-charger-us.html
"With a standard USB data cable the phone recognizes it as a USB charging
source and only pulls 500 mA. You can get "charging only" cables allowing
higher (still safe) amperage"
== 5 of 10 ==
Date: Fri, Jan 31 2014 12:04 am
From: Danny D'Amico
On Fri, 31 Jan 2014 06:59:53 +0000, Andy Burns wrote:
> it should display "Charging A/C" instead of "Charging USB"
> unless Samsung have hobbled that part of Android.
I appreciate that wonderful advice!
It took me a while to FIND what you were talking about on my
T-Mobile Samsung Galaxy S3 with Android 4.3 installed.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7366/12232358615_bb6f4d8d5a_o.jpg
I found the "type" of charging when I went to Android 4.3:
Settings->More->About Device->Status
A. When hooked to a PC USB port, it said "Charging (USB)".
B. When hooked to a wall USB port, it said "Charging (AC)".
C. Tomorrow I will test what it says in the car & report back!
== 6 of 10 ==
Date: Fri, Jan 31 2014 12:13 am
From: Danny D'Amico
On Fri, 31 Jan 2014 06:53:54 +0000, Danny D. wrote:
> 2.1 Amps should have been plenty to both charge and run the
> Samsung Galaxy S3.
Googling some more, it seems the most the Samsung Galaxy S3
will every draw is 900 mA, at least according to this:
http://forums.androidcentral.com/samsung-galaxy-s3/306607-2-amp-charger-s3.html
"Tests done by users over in xda-developers show [the Samsung Galaxy S3]
limits the amount of current the battery can draw to about 0.9 amps
regardless of the current available ... Also when the battery is fully
charged it shuts down totally -- it doesn't continue trickle charging like
simpler chargers."
== 7 of 10 ==
Date: Fri, Jan 31 2014 12:17 am
From: Danny D'Amico
On Fri, 31 Jan 2014 07:35:57 +0000, Danny D'Amico wrote:
> "With a standard USB data cable the phone recognizes it as a USB charging
> source and only pulls 500 mA. You can get "charging only" cables
> allowing higher (still safe) amperage"
Googling for what the difference is between a data & charging cable,
I find this reference:
http://forums.androidcentral.com/samsung-galaxy-s3/306607-2-amp-charger-s3.html
Which says:
The two types of cable are a "charge only" cable and a full data cable.
In order to distinguish which type of port they're connected to and therefore
know how much power can be drawn phones examine the two inside "data" wires
on the USB connection. If they are shorted together the phone says hey I'm
plugged into a charging port and can draw max amps and it reports it as "AC"
--if they are not shorted then it limits amp draw to 0.5amps and reports it
as " USB". Note that some wall wart modules short the data pins internally
--with those you can use any cable and pull max. Others don't so in order
to pull over 0.5amps you must use a special "charging only" USB cable that
does the shorting in the cable--these will NOT work for data usage.
Apple phones do something similar but instead of shorting the data pair
they change the voltage on one data wire.
== 8 of 10 ==
Date: Fri, Jan 31 2014 12:52 am
From: Danny D'Amico
On Fri, 31 Jan 2014 08:13:23 +0000, Danny D'Amico wrote:
> Googling some more, it seems the most the Samsung Galaxy S3 will every
> draw is 900 mA
It seems, that in the car, the problem is that we probably shouldn't
use Apple USB chargers, unless we use special cables:
At least that is what is implied here:
http://forums.androidcentral.com/samsung-galaxy-s3/195415-max-safe-amps-car-charger-us.html
Apples 10W/2A charger puts 2.8v on one of the data lines and 2v on the other
(I forget which is which) to tell an iPad that it can pull up to 2A.
Earlier iphone/ipod wall chargers put 2v on each data line which will
limit the device draw to 500mA. This is why you need to use a "charging cable" with
wall/car chargers made for apple products. The Apple oriented chargers do not
internally short the data lines so most android phones will treat it like a 500mA
source. The charger that ships with your android phone has the data lines shorted
internally so it doesn't matter what cable you use.
== 9 of 10 ==
Date: Fri, Jan 31 2014 1:01 am
From: Danny D'Amico
On Fri, 31 Jan 2014 06:53:54 +0000, Danny D. wrote:
> Does any of this make sense to you?
What's going on when GPS is enabled while the S3 is on the car charger is
just starting to make sense now, with respect to the current draw:
http://forums.androidcentral.com/samsung-galaxy-s3/195415-max-safe-amps-car-charger-us-2.html
The S3 uses the defined Micro USB charging standard.
If the charger or cable has the data lines shorted, the S3 thinks it is on an AC charger.
If the data lines are not shorted, the S3 thinks it is plugged into a USB port on a PC.
When the S3 thinks it is plugged into an AC charger, the S3 pulls a maximum current of about 800ma.
If the charger is LESS then 800ma. the phone may fall back to the lower current of a USB port.
When the S3 is plugged into a USB port (where the data lines are not shorted),
then the S3 pulls a miximum current of between 300ma and 400ma.
If the charger DOES have shorted data lines, but it can't handle the 800ma
AC charger setting, the phone falls back to the lower USB port rate of about 300ma.
== 10 of 10 ==
Date: Fri, Jan 31 2014 3:56 am
From: Danny D'Amico
On Fri, 31 Jan 2014 09:01:09 +0000, Danny D'Amico wrote:
> Does any of this make sense to you?
Another quote from the same thread, which is instructive:
http://forums.androidcentral.com/samsung-galaxy-s3/195415-max-safe-amps-car-charger-us-2.html#post2997829
Most batteries can handle a charge rate of 1xcapacity.
In the case of the Samsung S3 the battery is 2100mA capacity.
Therefore, the S3 can be safely charged at 2.1A.
The battery has no regulator in it and it not smart in any way.
The S3 has a circuit built in to properly charge a lithium ion
battery and can regulate the source current as needed.
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sci.electronics.repair - 26 new messages in 7 topics - digest
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sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com
Today's topics:
* Active device nonsense - 15 messages, 6 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/58fd5bf0893d5f4a?hl=en
* Icemaker retrofit to a Panasonic refrigerator - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/428ec95cd579b500?hl=en
* Sony RM-U100 - 3 messages, 3 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/879fa0651e0f7494?hl=en
* Fuses in place of motor "heaters"? (induction motor protection) - 2 messages,
2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/0933319a7c117739?hl=en
* Harmon Kardon MS-150 ... - 2 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/94492aa4601f463c?hl=en
* Tools to View, Save & Edit Flash Drive Properties? - 2 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/f0fa0a23f84aeb57?hl=en
* Owon oscilloscope power supply schema or part info? - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/f5f68bb60c6b87eb?hl=en
==============================================================================
TOPIC: Active device nonsense
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/58fd5bf0893d5f4a?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 15 ==
Date: Tues, Jan 28 2014 12:45 pm
From: Jerry Peters
jurb6006@gmail.com wrote:
>>"passive component Electronics. A component that does not require power
> to operate, e.g., a resistor. Contrast with active. "
>
> Umm, if a resistor is operating witthout power, just what is it doing ?
Nothing? I picked up on that one too, if it's not disipating some
power than there's no current flow through it.
== 2 of 15 ==
Date: Tues, Jan 28 2014 12:52 pm
From: Jerry Peters
Phil Allison <phil_a@tpg.com.au> wrote:
>
> "Jerry Peters"
>> Phil Allison
>>>
>>> "Jerry Peters"
>>>>
>>>>> An active device uses one signal [current, voltage] to control another.
>>>>
>>>> So a relay is an active device?
>>>
>>>
>>> ** Trying to define a word or term *out of context* is doomed to failure.
>>
>> It's called reductio ad absurdum, it's a rhetorical technique Phil.
>
>
> ** I figured you were being facetious.
I was actually trying to get dave to *think*, but he doesn't seem to
be capable of it. It's much like the definition of a word, there can
be multiple, sometimes even contradictory meanings, and also
implications or overtones to a particular word choice.
>
> But YOU failed to see the discussion is only about "electronic devices" .
>
> Which relays are not.
If he gets to define what an active or passive device is *I* can
define what an "electronic" device is.
WHat about a magnetic amplifier?
== 3 of 15 ==
Date: Tues, Jan 28 2014 1:45 pm
From: jurb6006@gmail.com
?"But YOU failed to see the discussion is only about "electronic devices" .
Which relays are not. "
Why, because they have no silicon or PN junction ? then you rule out tubes/valvs. If the exception is made because of a filament and thermionic emission, then what about gas fired tubes/valves like a 0Z4 or whatever ?
Sometimes the process of elimination is useful. What is NOT an activ device ?
Capacitor
Resistor
Inductor
Switch
That would mean then that a relay is not an active electronic device because the two main compnents are not active.
However, in a transistor....
If a diode is not active, why ? You can modulate with it. You can switch with it. This can be done with solid state diodes or otherwise.
So does the addition of the second junction in a bipolar transistor make it active ? does the addition of a grid in a tube/valve make it active ?
All of this, no matter how useless an argument (nobody has any work to do ?), is coming down to the point where a diode is an active device.
== 4 of 15 ==
Date: Tues, Jan 28 2014 2:52 pm
From: Kaz Kylheku
On 2014-01-28, jurb6006@gmail.com <jurb6006@gmail.com> wrote:
> If a diode is not active, why ? You can modulate with it. You can switch with it. This can be done with solid state diodes or otherwise.
A diode is not active by itself, because it's a two-port circuit. There is no
way for it to have an input which controls an output.
> So does the addition of the second junction in a bipolar transistor make it
> active ? does the addition of a grid in a tube/valve make it active ?
No; you also need a circuit to make it active. The minimum active circuit
you can make with a three-port device is a three-port current source.
Two terminals of the device are placed into a power circuit, and the third
terminal controls the flow of current.
Using a three-port transistor or tube triode device, plus some additional
components, like at least one resistor, we can make a four-port active circuit
based on voltages: something that takes an input voltage on one port, produces
an output on another port, and has a third port where power is supplied, so
that the input isn't driving the output.
The rule of thumb is: if inputs can control the flow of energy from the
outputs, without supplying most of that energy, then the situation is active.
If the output energy is derived from the inputs, then it is passive.
To apply this ide, we have to identify what is an energy source, what are
inputs, and what is the output (and in what form).
Example of an active device: power steering in a car. The input is you, turning
the wheel, which requires little force because of an energy source within the
power steering which actually turns the wheels.
Unpowered steering is passive: all of the energy to move the wheels comes from
you, turning the wheel.
(The rack and pinion gives you a mechanical advantage. We have such a passive
transmission in electricity also, namely the transformer. Though the
transformer adapts impedance and changes voltages and currents, all of the
output power comes from the input, so it is passive.)
== 5 of 15 ==
Date: Tues, Jan 28 2014 3:50 pm
From: "Phil Allison"
"Jerry Peters"
>> Phil Allison
>
>> ** I figured you were being facetious.
>
> I was actually trying to get dave to *think*, but he doesn't seem to
> be capable of it.
** No fooling ?
> It's much like the definition of a word, there can
> be multiple, sometimes even contradictory meanings, and also
> implications or overtones to a particular word choice.
>
>>
>> But YOU failed to see the discussion is only about "electronic devices" .
>>
>> Which relays are not.
>
> If he gets to define what an active or passive device is *I* can
> define what an "electronic" device is.
>
> WHat about a magnetic amplifier?
** Out of context again.
Device = single component here.
"Electronic component " is broad church too, it includes anything electronic
in nature that is intended to be used to create an electronic device.
Active devices do NOT have to be able to amplify signals - that IS what
most of them do but is not the defining issue.
BTW:
I see you are an incorrigible context shifter and a bullshit artist.
Fuck off.
... Phil
== 6 of 15 ==
Date: Tues, Jan 28 2014 3:52 pm
From: "Phil Allison"
<jurb6006@gmail.com>
> ?"But YOU failed to see the discussion is only about "electronic devices"
> .
>
> Which relays are not. "
>
> Why,
** Read the rest of that post - you over snipping maniac.
Then go drop fucking dead.
== 7 of 15 ==
Date: Tues, Jan 28 2014 5:19 pm
From: jurb6006@gmail.com
>"A diode is not active by itself, because it's a two-port circuit. There is no
way for it to have an input which controls an output. "
So your contention then is that tunnel diodes, Gunn diodes and Zener diodes are not active devices.
If that is so, then a magnetron is also passive. It is technically a diode with an indirectly heated cathode unless you consider the magnet an element. Also, what of the case of a Hall effct device ? Nothing electronic controls it, only a magnetic field. Other devices can have more than two terminals aqnd be passive, so where does the Hall effect fit in there ?
== 8 of 15 ==
Date: Tues, Jan 28 2014 6:46 pm
From: Kaz Kylheku
On 2014-01-29, jurb6006@gmail.com <jurb6006@gmail.com> wrote:
>>"A diode is not active by itself, because it's a two-port circuit. There is no
> way for it to have an input which controls an output. "
>
> So your contention then is that tunnel diodes, Gunn diodes and Zener diodes
> are not active devices.
I'm trying to classify them as such, but I am unable to think of the
justification.
> If that is so, then a magnetron is also passive. It is technically a diode
> with an indirectly heated cathode unless you consider the magnet an element.
> Also, what of the case of a Hall effct device ? Nothing electronic controls
> it, only a magnetic field. Other devices can have more than two terminals
> aqnd be passive, so where does the Hall effect fit in there ?
These devices can be active if we broaden the definition of "input", and
"energy" and so on beyond electronics. I already gave an example of automobile
power steering being active.
In the case of semiconductor diodes, we have photodiodes. (Actually any
silicon diode reacts to light, just isn't necessarily packaged for that use.)
The two ports of a photodiode can be configured to pass current from a power
supply. The light falling on the junction can be regarded as an input: a third
port which modulates the current. This is then "active": some energy delivery
is modulated in proportion to the light, and yet most of the energy is not
derived from that light.
Hall effect sensors and such can be conceived similarly.
== 9 of 15 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 29 2014 4:52 am
From: "William Sommerwerck"
An active device provides signal amplification, or it uses amplification as
the basis of its operation. That has always been the definition.
Is digital circuitry active? I'd say yes. The ability to switch a tube or
transistor "on" depends on the device's ability to amplify its input to the
point it's driven into saturation. The amplification mechanism is exactly the
same as when the device amplifies a continuously varying signal.
How about controlled rectifiers? These are four-layer (sometimes more) devices
sometimes modeled as two transistors in a sort of "soixante neuf" arrangement,
a kind of flip-flop. Again, the same transistor amplification mechanism makes
them work.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/TRIAC
Magnetic amplifiers use a small current to control a larger one. They're (as
the British would say) "valves", just as tubes and transistors are.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magnetic_amplifier
== 10 of 15 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 29 2014 1:03 pm
From: Jerry Peters
Kaz Kylheku <kaz@kylheku.com> wrote:
> On 2014-01-28, jurb6006@gmail.com <jurb6006@gmail.com> wrote:
>> If a diode is not active, why ? You can modulate with it. You can switch with it. This can be done with solid state diodes or otherwise.
>
> A diode is not active by itself, because it's a two-port circuit. There is no
> way for it to have an input which controls an output.
Switching diode which switches an AC signal with a DC signal. It's
been done for years.
PIN diode which can switch or attenuate an RF signal with a DC
current.
--snip--
== 11 of 15 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 29 2014 1:07 pm
From: Jerry Peters
William Sommerwerck <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote:
> An active device provides signal amplification, or it uses amplification as
> the basis of its operation. That has always been the definition.
>
> Is digital circuitry active? I'd say yes. The ability to switch a tube or
> transistor "on" depends on the device's ability to amplify its input to the
> point it's driven into saturation. The amplification mechanism is exactly the
> same as when the device amplifies a continuously varying signal.
>
> How about controlled rectifiers? These are four-layer (sometimes more) devices
> sometimes modeled as two transistors in a sort of "soixante neuf" arrangement,
> a kind of flip-flop. Again, the same transistor amplification mechanism makes
> them work.
>
> https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/TRIAC
>
> Magnetic amplifiers use a small current to control a larger one. They're (as
> the British would say) "valves", just as tubes and transistors are.
>
> https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magnetic_amplifier
>
I'd say amplification is a *sufficient* condition but not a necessary
one. A diode can be used as a switch, without amplifying, which I would
argue makes it an active device.
== 12 of 15 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 29 2014 3:15 pm
From: Kaz Kylheku
On 2014-01-29, William Sommerwerck <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote:
> An active device provides signal amplification, or it uses amplification as
> the basis of its operation. That has always been the definition.
That is fine, but you have to remember that amplification includes unity gain
(and below).
> Is digital circuitry active? I'd say yes.
I would say that, as a category, no.
Counterexample:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diode_logic
== 13 of 15 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 29 2014 4:37 pm
From: dave
On 01/29/2014 01:03 PM, Jerry Peters wrote:
> Kaz Kylheku <kaz@kylheku.com> wrote:
>> On 2014-01-28, jurb6006@gmail.com <jurb6006@gmail.com> wrote:
>>> If a diode is not active, why ? You can modulate with it. You can switch with it. This can be done with solid state diodes or otherwise.
>>
>> A diode is not active by itself, because it's a two-port circuit. There is no
>> way for it to have an input which controls an output.
>
> Switching diode which switches an AC signal with a DC signal. It's
> been done for years.
>
> PIN diode which can switch or attenuate an RF signal with a DC
> current.
>
> --snip--
>
Pin diodes don't attenuate. They connect resistors.
== 14 of 15 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 29 2014 5:31 pm
From: "William Sommerwerck"
"Jerry Peters" wrote in message news:lcbqi0$ke5$2@dont-email.me...
> I'd say amplification is a *sufficient* condition but not a necessary
> one. A diode can be used as a switch, without amplifying, which
> I would argue makes it an active device.
So then a light switch is an active device? Hello?
The remarks made here are classic examples of opening one's mouth and stating
whatever pops into one's head, without giving it the least bit of thought.
There's no point in discussing it further. If a device cannot amplify (in the
ordinary, common-sense meaning of the word), it is not an active device.
Otherwise, you could twist the definition so that any and every electronic
component was an active device.
Case closed.
== 15 of 15 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 29 2014 6:11 pm
From: "Phil Allison"
"William Fuckwit Sommerwanker "
>>
>> I'd say amplification is a *sufficient* condition but not a necessary
>> one. A diode can be used as a switch, without amplifying, which
>> I would argue makes it an active device.
>
> So then a light switch is an active device?
** FFS - it not an ELECTRONIC device.
Do you want food mixers and lawn mowers included too ??
> The remarks made here are classic examples of opening one's mouth and
> stating whatever pops into one's head, without giving it the least bit of
> thought.
** Like YOU do all the fucking time - asshole.
> There's no point in discussing it further. If a device cannot amplify (in
> the ordinary, common-sense meaning of the word), it is not an active
> device.
** Crap.
> Otherwise, you could twist the definition so that any and every electronic
> component was an active device.
** Define "electronic component" to mean only those items that are
exclusively electronic in nature and you have got it.
The term " active device" cannot be defined OUT OF CONTEXT !!!!!!
I say it includes to ANY vacuum tube or semiconductor intended to be used in
an electronic circuit - cos that is how most folk working IN ELECTRONICS
use it and dealer's catalogues reflect the fact too.
And Wiki agrees with ME !!!!!
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electronic_component#Classification
.... Phil
==============================================================================
TOPIC: Icemaker retrofit to a Panasonic refrigerator
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/428ec95cd579b500?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Tues, Jan 28 2014 1:36 pm
From: mroberds@att.net
pepebuho <pepebuho@gmail.com> wrote:
> How hard would it be to retrofit a SUPCO icemaker to a Panasonic
> refrigerator like NR-B391, for example.
The main thing is that you need to make at least one hole, and probably
two (water + wires), through the wall of the freezer compartment. As
long as you know exactly where the refrigerant lines and cabinet heaters
(if equipped) are, you can pick a good place for the hole. If you
don't, then it's kind of like finding a stud in a wall - drill a tiny
hole (1/16" or so) through one surface only, poke around with a stiff
piece of wire to make sure nothing is in the way, and if clear, drill
the hole bigger. If this model refrigerator had a factory option for
the icemaker, there may be some holes already there, possibly filled
with a foam plug and taped over.
You may also need to make some small holes in the freezer liner for
mounting screws, or fabricate some kind of stand or shelf to put the
icemaker on. Again, if there was a factory option, these may already
be there.
If you drilled the holes yourself, you'll probably want to seal the
holes you made with food grade silicone sealant. Try not to have any
wire splices inside the freezer; if you do, they get sealed up with
silicone as well.
If the existing circuits use 1/4" push-on terminals, see if you can use
insulated splitters (one female+two male, or vice versa), or insulated
female terminals that also have a male tab on them. Otherwise, cut the
existing wires and put insulated push-ons on them, or solder and tape.
I wouldn't trust wire nuts or those "guillotine" tap-in terminals (with
the blade with slots that pushes over the wire) for this. Make sure
you are tapping into the 120 V line from the wall, and not something
that is switched by the thermostat or controlled by a circuit board.
You will of course void the warranty on the fridge.
Matt Roberds
==============================================================================
TOPIC: Sony RM-U100
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/879fa0651e0f7494?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Tues, Jan 28 2014 1:48 pm
From: mroberds@att.net
Pat <pat@nospam.us> wrote:
> I clicked on it and was instructed to remove the batteries, press
> every button once, repeat for every setting of the two slide switched
> and then reinsert the batteries. I was very skeptical, but sure
> enough, it works fine now.
Maybe one of the buttons or switches was stuck on, or had some goop
(beverage, etc) shorting the contacts, and operating the buttons
cleared it? I've seen a remote where a button could be stuck on, but
it was hard to tell by inspection that it was lower than the adjacent
buttons.
Matt Roberds
== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 29 2014 12:37 am
From: N_Cook
On 28/01/2014 20:29, Pat wrote:
> I started using my old Sony STR-AV910 receiver after it had been
> stored for a year or two. Everything worked except the remote. One
> battery was in pretty good shape, but the other showed only 0.8 volts.
> However, neither battery was leaking. I installed new batteries, but
> still no output. I tried removing and reinstalling the batteries a
> few times and finally gave up. (I did learn that, unlike my old
> iPhone, my newer iPhone has an IR filter on its camera, though).
>
> Anyway, I went to 800-remote's web site and saw I could buy a
> refurbished unit. However, if the problem was caused by dried up
> caps, a refurbished unit of the same age might fail soon. While
> thinking about it, I noticed a "fix it yourself" link on their site. I
> clicked on it and was instructed to remove the batteries, press every
> button once, repeat for every setting of the two slide switched and
> then reinsert the batteries. I was very skeptical, but sure enough,
> it works fine now. I can only guess, it needed to be fully reset and
> pressing the buttons fully shorted any charge remaining on high
> impedance input lines of the ic. Any other thoughts on why that
> procedure fixed it? They claim it fixes 1 in 3 failed remotes.
>
> Pat
>
Probably insulating black CuS corrossion on the slide switches,
corrossion under a key would not stop the unit as a whole from
operating. Daily or regular use keeps that corrossion at bay,
by the wiping action of the phosphor bronze sliding contacts.
At least the corrossion product of silver plating is conductive and of
course gold plating does not corrode in normal circumstances.
== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 29 2014 5:04 am
From: "Mark Zacharias"
"Pat" <pat@nospam.us> wrote in message
news:624ge9phm6q03r01nrsm00ioe3fhdp4gee@4ax.com...
>I started using my old Sony STR-AV910 receiver after it had been
> stored for a year or two. Everything worked except the remote. One
> battery was in pretty good shape, but the other showed only 0.8 volts.
> However, neither battery was leaking. I installed new batteries, but
> still no output. I tried removing and reinstalling the batteries a
> few times and finally gave up. (I did learn that, unlike my old
> iPhone, my newer iPhone has an IR filter on its camera, though).
>
> Anyway, I went to 800-remote's web site and saw I could buy a
> refurbished unit. However, if the problem was caused by dried up
> caps, a refurbished unit of the same age might fail soon. While
> thinking about it, I noticed a "fix it yourself" link on their site. I
> clicked on it and was instructed to remove the batteries, press every
> button once, repeat for every setting of the two slide switched and
> then reinsert the batteries. I was very skeptical, but sure enough,
> it works fine now. I can only guess, it needed to be fully reset and
> pressing the buttons fully shorted any charge remaining on high
> impedance input lines of the ic. Any other thoughts on why that
> procedure fixed it? They claim it fixes 1 in 3 failed remotes.
>
> Pat
Seen it many times with many brands. Alway recommend the customer try this
before replacing the remote. Don't need to press all buttons, 2 or 3 will
do.
The chip inside just seems to get locked up.
Mark Z.
==============================================================================
TOPIC: Fuses in place of motor "heaters"? (induction motor protection)
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/0933319a7c117739?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Tues, Jan 28 2014 3:41 pm
From: "Phil Allison"
"boob = bullshit artist"
>>>>> They often are used for short circuit protection of a motor circuit,
>>>>> but
>>>>> not for overload protection.
>>>>
>>>> ** Horse manure !!!!!!!!!!
>>>>
>>>> Overload protection is EXACTLY what circuit breakers are there for.
>>>>
>>>> You cab size them to protect a stalled or overloaded motor or just the
>>>> supply cables.
>>>>
>>>
>>> The step between circuit breaker ratings is far too large to provide
>>> overload protection for motors.
>>
>> ** FFS - asshole try LEARNING TO READ
>>
>> Thermal breakers come in any almost size you like and you fit them
>> between
>> the AC outlet and the load.
>
>> Thermal/ magnetic breakers are not simply for "short circuit protection".
>>
>> They provide cable overload ( overtemp) protection.
>
> Not in the US NEC. And not the practice in the US.
** You are one stupid, lying ass.
WTF do you think AC supply circuit breakers are fucking for?
--------------------------------------------------------------------
> You have such compelling arguments.
** While you have posted NONE at ALL !!!!!!!!
Fuck off - you crazy fucking nut case.
.... Phil
== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 29 2014 12:28 pm
From: bud--
On 1/28/2014 5:41 PM, Phil Allison wrote:
> "boob = bullshit artist"
>
>>>>>> They often are used for short circuit protection of a motor circuit,
>>>>>> but
>>>>>> not for overload protection.
>>>>>
>>>>> ** Horse manure !!!!!!!!!!
>>>>>
>>>>> Overload protection is EXACTLY what circuit breakers are there for.
>>>>>
>>>>> You cab size them to protect a stalled or overloaded motor or just the
>>>>> supply cables.
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>> The step between circuit breaker ratings is far too large to provide
>>>> overload protection for motors.
>>>
>>> ** FFS - asshole try LEARNING TO READ
>>>
>>> Thermal breakers come in any almost size you like and you fit them
>>> between
>>> the AC outlet and the load.
>>
>>> Thermal/ magnetic breakers are not simply for "short circuit protection".
>>> They provide cable overload ( overtemp) protection.
>>
>> Not in the US NEC. And not the practice in the US.
>
> ** You are one stupid, lying ass.
More of the famous Allison logic.
>
> WTF do you think AC supply circuit breakers are fucking for?
You forgot to to answer the question. Maybe because you deleted it.
"What [AC supply circuit] breaker would you use for overload protection
for a motor with a run current of 16.3A. Breaker must be UL listed, able
to withstand motor starting currents, and suitable for use as motor
protection."
That should be a trivial you.
>
>> You have such compelling arguments.
>
>
> ** While you have posted NONE at ALL !!!!!!!!
Only if you can't read !!!!!!!!
>
> Fuck off - you crazy fucking nut case.
Does you mommy approve of your language?
==============================================================================
TOPIC: Harmon Kardon MS-150 ...
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/94492aa4601f463c?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Tues, Jan 28 2014 6:25 pm
From: "Arfa Daily"
"William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:lc62c1$klp$1@dont-email.me...
> "Arfa Daily" wrote in message news:xuuFu.120$ac4.97@fx05.am4...
>
>> No, I haven't. There's a limit to the amount of time that I'm prepared to
>> spend on this consumer junk, governed entirely by the law of diminishing
>> returns. To be honest, if getting inside it involves removing glued-on
>> trims, then I am not interested beyond the point that I have now reached.
>
> To put it a bit more bluntly... Is it not reasonable to assume that a
> product that's glued together is not intended to be repaired?
>
If something is genuinely glued together, then it gets little more than a
cursory look if it crosses my bench. However, this one was slightly
different from that in that it had lots of obvious screws holding the case
halves together, and when these were removed, it was 'almost' coming apart
in the way that you would expect, but something else, right in the middle,
was still preventing it from coming all the way. I'm sure that a bit of
brute force and ignorance would have seen it apart, but it's a fancy
expensive-looking (and probably /actually/ expensive) item, and I was
concerned that something visible might 'give', leaving nasty damage ...
Arfa
== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 29 2014 3:29 am
From: thekmanrocks@gmail.com
WHO the heck are they trying to be: http://static.bootic.com/_pictures/1449104/harman-kardon-ms-150.jpg BOSE?!
That thing looks like the Revel Resort in Atlantic City -LMAO!! At least they could have incorporated the iPod Dock into the cabinet, instead of tacking it onto the side like an afterthought.
I say flip it over and start unscrewing from the bottom.
==============================================================================
TOPIC: Tools to View, Save & Edit Flash Drive Properties?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/f0fa0a23f84aeb57?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 29 2014 8:10 am
From: KenO
Have a Skymedi usb 1GB flash drive that somehow had its size increased.
Was able to find the Skymedi Production Tool and tried to return this flash drive to its original properties by deleting the config.file but all this did was to change the property size to zero.
Appreciate any tips or links concerning tools to view, save and edit Flash Drive properties.
Thanks
Ken
== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 29 2014 7:28 pm
From: "hrhofmann@sbcglobal.net"
On Wednesday, January 29, 2014 10:10:28 AM UTC-6, KenO wrote:
> Have a Skymedi usb 1GB flash drive that somehow had its size increased. Was able to find the Skymedi Production Tool and tried to return this flash drive to its original properties by deleting the config.file but all this did was to change the property size to zero. Appreciate any tips or links concerning tools to view, save and edit Flash Drive properties. Thanks Ken
1GB drives are so cheap it is probably not worth spending much time on it.
==============================================================================
TOPIC: Owon oscilloscope power supply schema or part info?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/f5f68bb60c6b87eb?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 29 2014 9:10 am
From: tuinkabouter
On 1/28/2014 4:56 PM, Ismo Salonen wrote:
> Owon has not answered to my query.
At the moment the chinese are celebrating new year.
In china it is big, compare it with Xmas in the us.
Every one is visiting there family.
Don't expect an answer in 10 to 14 days.
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Google Groups: http://groups.google.com/?hl=en
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair?hl=en
sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com
Today's topics:
* Active device nonsense - 15 messages, 6 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/58fd5bf0893d5f4a?hl=en
* Icemaker retrofit to a Panasonic refrigerator - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/428ec95cd579b500?hl=en
* Sony RM-U100 - 3 messages, 3 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/879fa0651e0f7494?hl=en
* Fuses in place of motor "heaters"? (induction motor protection) - 2 messages,
2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/0933319a7c117739?hl=en
* Harmon Kardon MS-150 ... - 2 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/94492aa4601f463c?hl=en
* Tools to View, Save & Edit Flash Drive Properties? - 2 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/f0fa0a23f84aeb57?hl=en
* Owon oscilloscope power supply schema or part info? - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/f5f68bb60c6b87eb?hl=en
==============================================================================
TOPIC: Active device nonsense
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/58fd5bf0893d5f4a?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 15 ==
Date: Tues, Jan 28 2014 12:45 pm
From: Jerry Peters
jurb6006@gmail.com wrote:
>>"passive component Electronics. A component that does not require power
> to operate, e.g., a resistor. Contrast with active. "
>
> Umm, if a resistor is operating witthout power, just what is it doing ?
Nothing? I picked up on that one too, if it's not disipating some
power than there's no current flow through it.
== 2 of 15 ==
Date: Tues, Jan 28 2014 12:52 pm
From: Jerry Peters
Phil Allison <phil_a@tpg.com.au> wrote:
>
> "Jerry Peters"
>> Phil Allison
>>>
>>> "Jerry Peters"
>>>>
>>>>> An active device uses one signal [current, voltage] to control another.
>>>>
>>>> So a relay is an active device?
>>>
>>>
>>> ** Trying to define a word or term *out of context* is doomed to failure.
>>
>> It's called reductio ad absurdum, it's a rhetorical technique Phil.
>
>
> ** I figured you were being facetious.
I was actually trying to get dave to *think*, but he doesn't seem to
be capable of it. It's much like the definition of a word, there can
be multiple, sometimes even contradictory meanings, and also
implications or overtones to a particular word choice.
>
> But YOU failed to see the discussion is only about "electronic devices" .
>
> Which relays are not.
If he gets to define what an active or passive device is *I* can
define what an "electronic" device is.
WHat about a magnetic amplifier?
== 3 of 15 ==
Date: Tues, Jan 28 2014 1:45 pm
From: jurb6006@gmail.com
?"But YOU failed to see the discussion is only about "electronic devices" .
Which relays are not. "
Why, because they have no silicon or PN junction ? then you rule out tubes/valvs. If the exception is made because of a filament and thermionic emission, then what about gas fired tubes/valves like a 0Z4 or whatever ?
Sometimes the process of elimination is useful. What is NOT an activ device ?
Capacitor
Resistor
Inductor
Switch
That would mean then that a relay is not an active electronic device because the two main compnents are not active.
However, in a transistor....
If a diode is not active, why ? You can modulate with it. You can switch with it. This can be done with solid state diodes or otherwise.
So does the addition of the second junction in a bipolar transistor make it active ? does the addition of a grid in a tube/valve make it active ?
All of this, no matter how useless an argument (nobody has any work to do ?), is coming down to the point where a diode is an active device.
== 4 of 15 ==
Date: Tues, Jan 28 2014 2:52 pm
From: Kaz Kylheku
On 2014-01-28, jurb6006@gmail.com <jurb6006@gmail.com> wrote:
> If a diode is not active, why ? You can modulate with it. You can switch with it. This can be done with solid state diodes or otherwise.
A diode is not active by itself, because it's a two-port circuit. There is no
way for it to have an input which controls an output.
> So does the addition of the second junction in a bipolar transistor make it
> active ? does the addition of a grid in a tube/valve make it active ?
No; you also need a circuit to make it active. The minimum active circuit
you can make with a three-port device is a three-port current source.
Two terminals of the device are placed into a power circuit, and the third
terminal controls the flow of current.
Using a three-port transistor or tube triode device, plus some additional
components, like at least one resistor, we can make a four-port active circuit
based on voltages: something that takes an input voltage on one port, produces
an output on another port, and has a third port where power is supplied, so
that the input isn't driving the output.
The rule of thumb is: if inputs can control the flow of energy from the
outputs, without supplying most of that energy, then the situation is active.
If the output energy is derived from the inputs, then it is passive.
To apply this ide, we have to identify what is an energy source, what are
inputs, and what is the output (and in what form).
Example of an active device: power steering in a car. The input is you, turning
the wheel, which requires little force because of an energy source within the
power steering which actually turns the wheels.
Unpowered steering is passive: all of the energy to move the wheels comes from
you, turning the wheel.
(The rack and pinion gives you a mechanical advantage. We have such a passive
transmission in electricity also, namely the transformer. Though the
transformer adapts impedance and changes voltages and currents, all of the
output power comes from the input, so it is passive.)
== 5 of 15 ==
Date: Tues, Jan 28 2014 3:50 pm
From: "Phil Allison"
"Jerry Peters"
>> Phil Allison
>
>> ** I figured you were being facetious.
>
> I was actually trying to get dave to *think*, but he doesn't seem to
> be capable of it.
** No fooling ?
> It's much like the definition of a word, there can
> be multiple, sometimes even contradictory meanings, and also
> implications or overtones to a particular word choice.
>
>>
>> But YOU failed to see the discussion is only about "electronic devices" .
>>
>> Which relays are not.
>
> If he gets to define what an active or passive device is *I* can
> define what an "electronic" device is.
>
> WHat about a magnetic amplifier?
** Out of context again.
Device = single component here.
"Electronic component " is broad church too, it includes anything electronic
in nature that is intended to be used to create an electronic device.
Active devices do NOT have to be able to amplify signals - that IS what
most of them do but is not the defining issue.
BTW:
I see you are an incorrigible context shifter and a bullshit artist.
Fuck off.
... Phil
== 6 of 15 ==
Date: Tues, Jan 28 2014 3:52 pm
From: "Phil Allison"
<jurb6006@gmail.com>
> ?"But YOU failed to see the discussion is only about "electronic devices"
> .
>
> Which relays are not. "
>
> Why,
** Read the rest of that post - you over snipping maniac.
Then go drop fucking dead.
== 7 of 15 ==
Date: Tues, Jan 28 2014 5:19 pm
From: jurb6006@gmail.com
>"A diode is not active by itself, because it's a two-port circuit. There is no
way for it to have an input which controls an output. "
So your contention then is that tunnel diodes, Gunn diodes and Zener diodes are not active devices.
If that is so, then a magnetron is also passive. It is technically a diode with an indirectly heated cathode unless you consider the magnet an element. Also, what of the case of a Hall effct device ? Nothing electronic controls it, only a magnetic field. Other devices can have more than two terminals aqnd be passive, so where does the Hall effect fit in there ?
== 8 of 15 ==
Date: Tues, Jan 28 2014 6:46 pm
From: Kaz Kylheku
On 2014-01-29, jurb6006@gmail.com <jurb6006@gmail.com> wrote:
>>"A diode is not active by itself, because it's a two-port circuit. There is no
> way for it to have an input which controls an output. "
>
> So your contention then is that tunnel diodes, Gunn diodes and Zener diodes
> are not active devices.
I'm trying to classify them as such, but I am unable to think of the
justification.
> If that is so, then a magnetron is also passive. It is technically a diode
> with an indirectly heated cathode unless you consider the magnet an element.
> Also, what of the case of a Hall effct device ? Nothing electronic controls
> it, only a magnetic field. Other devices can have more than two terminals
> aqnd be passive, so where does the Hall effect fit in there ?
These devices can be active if we broaden the definition of "input", and
"energy" and so on beyond electronics. I already gave an example of automobile
power steering being active.
In the case of semiconductor diodes, we have photodiodes. (Actually any
silicon diode reacts to light, just isn't necessarily packaged for that use.)
The two ports of a photodiode can be configured to pass current from a power
supply. The light falling on the junction can be regarded as an input: a third
port which modulates the current. This is then "active": some energy delivery
is modulated in proportion to the light, and yet most of the energy is not
derived from that light.
Hall effect sensors and such can be conceived similarly.
== 9 of 15 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 29 2014 4:52 am
From: "William Sommerwerck"
An active device provides signal amplification, or it uses amplification as
the basis of its operation. That has always been the definition.
Is digital circuitry active? I'd say yes. The ability to switch a tube or
transistor "on" depends on the device's ability to amplify its input to the
point it's driven into saturation. The amplification mechanism is exactly the
same as when the device amplifies a continuously varying signal.
How about controlled rectifiers? These are four-layer (sometimes more) devices
sometimes modeled as two transistors in a sort of "soixante neuf" arrangement,
a kind of flip-flop. Again, the same transistor amplification mechanism makes
them work.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/TRIAC
Magnetic amplifiers use a small current to control a larger one. They're (as
the British would say) "valves", just as tubes and transistors are.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magnetic_amplifier
== 10 of 15 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 29 2014 1:03 pm
From: Jerry Peters
Kaz Kylheku <kaz@kylheku.com> wrote:
> On 2014-01-28, jurb6006@gmail.com <jurb6006@gmail.com> wrote:
>> If a diode is not active, why ? You can modulate with it. You can switch with it. This can be done with solid state diodes or otherwise.
>
> A diode is not active by itself, because it's a two-port circuit. There is no
> way for it to have an input which controls an output.
Switching diode which switches an AC signal with a DC signal. It's
been done for years.
PIN diode which can switch or attenuate an RF signal with a DC
current.
--snip--
== 11 of 15 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 29 2014 1:07 pm
From: Jerry Peters
William Sommerwerck <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote:
> An active device provides signal amplification, or it uses amplification as
> the basis of its operation. That has always been the definition.
>
> Is digital circuitry active? I'd say yes. The ability to switch a tube or
> transistor "on" depends on the device's ability to amplify its input to the
> point it's driven into saturation. The amplification mechanism is exactly the
> same as when the device amplifies a continuously varying signal.
>
> How about controlled rectifiers? These are four-layer (sometimes more) devices
> sometimes modeled as two transistors in a sort of "soixante neuf" arrangement,
> a kind of flip-flop. Again, the same transistor amplification mechanism makes
> them work.
>
> https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/TRIAC
>
> Magnetic amplifiers use a small current to control a larger one. They're (as
> the British would say) "valves", just as tubes and transistors are.
>
> https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magnetic_amplifier
>
I'd say amplification is a *sufficient* condition but not a necessary
one. A diode can be used as a switch, without amplifying, which I would
argue makes it an active device.
== 12 of 15 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 29 2014 3:15 pm
From: Kaz Kylheku
On 2014-01-29, William Sommerwerck <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote:
> An active device provides signal amplification, or it uses amplification as
> the basis of its operation. That has always been the definition.
That is fine, but you have to remember that amplification includes unity gain
(and below).
> Is digital circuitry active? I'd say yes.
I would say that, as a category, no.
Counterexample:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diode_logic
== 13 of 15 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 29 2014 4:37 pm
From: dave
On 01/29/2014 01:03 PM, Jerry Peters wrote:
> Kaz Kylheku <kaz@kylheku.com> wrote:
>> On 2014-01-28, jurb6006@gmail.com <jurb6006@gmail.com> wrote:
>>> If a diode is not active, why ? You can modulate with it. You can switch with it. This can be done with solid state diodes or otherwise.
>>
>> A diode is not active by itself, because it's a two-port circuit. There is no
>> way for it to have an input which controls an output.
>
> Switching diode which switches an AC signal with a DC signal. It's
> been done for years.
>
> PIN diode which can switch or attenuate an RF signal with a DC
> current.
>
> --snip--
>
Pin diodes don't attenuate. They connect resistors.
== 14 of 15 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 29 2014 5:31 pm
From: "William Sommerwerck"
"Jerry Peters" wrote in message news:lcbqi0$ke5$2@dont-email.me...
> I'd say amplification is a *sufficient* condition but not a necessary
> one. A diode can be used as a switch, without amplifying, which
> I would argue makes it an active device.
So then a light switch is an active device? Hello?
The remarks made here are classic examples of opening one's mouth and stating
whatever pops into one's head, without giving it the least bit of thought.
There's no point in discussing it further. If a device cannot amplify (in the
ordinary, common-sense meaning of the word), it is not an active device.
Otherwise, you could twist the definition so that any and every electronic
component was an active device.
Case closed.
== 15 of 15 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 29 2014 6:11 pm
From: "Phil Allison"
"William Fuckwit Sommerwanker "
>>
>> I'd say amplification is a *sufficient* condition but not a necessary
>> one. A diode can be used as a switch, without amplifying, which
>> I would argue makes it an active device.
>
> So then a light switch is an active device?
** FFS - it not an ELECTRONIC device.
Do you want food mixers and lawn mowers included too ??
> The remarks made here are classic examples of opening one's mouth and
> stating whatever pops into one's head, without giving it the least bit of
> thought.
** Like YOU do all the fucking time - asshole.
> There's no point in discussing it further. If a device cannot amplify (in
> the ordinary, common-sense meaning of the word), it is not an active
> device.
** Crap.
> Otherwise, you could twist the definition so that any and every electronic
> component was an active device.
** Define "electronic component" to mean only those items that are
exclusively electronic in nature and you have got it.
The term " active device" cannot be defined OUT OF CONTEXT !!!!!!
I say it includes to ANY vacuum tube or semiconductor intended to be used in
an electronic circuit - cos that is how most folk working IN ELECTRONICS
use it and dealer's catalogues reflect the fact too.
And Wiki agrees with ME !!!!!
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electronic_component#Classification
.... Phil
==============================================================================
TOPIC: Icemaker retrofit to a Panasonic refrigerator
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/428ec95cd579b500?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Tues, Jan 28 2014 1:36 pm
From: mroberds@att.net
pepebuho <pepebuho@gmail.com> wrote:
> How hard would it be to retrofit a SUPCO icemaker to a Panasonic
> refrigerator like NR-B391, for example.
The main thing is that you need to make at least one hole, and probably
two (water + wires), through the wall of the freezer compartment. As
long as you know exactly where the refrigerant lines and cabinet heaters
(if equipped) are, you can pick a good place for the hole. If you
don't, then it's kind of like finding a stud in a wall - drill a tiny
hole (1/16" or so) through one surface only, poke around with a stiff
piece of wire to make sure nothing is in the way, and if clear, drill
the hole bigger. If this model refrigerator had a factory option for
the icemaker, there may be some holes already there, possibly filled
with a foam plug and taped over.
You may also need to make some small holes in the freezer liner for
mounting screws, or fabricate some kind of stand or shelf to put the
icemaker on. Again, if there was a factory option, these may already
be there.
If you drilled the holes yourself, you'll probably want to seal the
holes you made with food grade silicone sealant. Try not to have any
wire splices inside the freezer; if you do, they get sealed up with
silicone as well.
If the existing circuits use 1/4" push-on terminals, see if you can use
insulated splitters (one female+two male, or vice versa), or insulated
female terminals that also have a male tab on them. Otherwise, cut the
existing wires and put insulated push-ons on them, or solder and tape.
I wouldn't trust wire nuts or those "guillotine" tap-in terminals (with
the blade with slots that pushes over the wire) for this. Make sure
you are tapping into the 120 V line from the wall, and not something
that is switched by the thermostat or controlled by a circuit board.
You will of course void the warranty on the fridge.
Matt Roberds
==============================================================================
TOPIC: Sony RM-U100
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/879fa0651e0f7494?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Tues, Jan 28 2014 1:48 pm
From: mroberds@att.net
Pat <pat@nospam.us> wrote:
> I clicked on it and was instructed to remove the batteries, press
> every button once, repeat for every setting of the two slide switched
> and then reinsert the batteries. I was very skeptical, but sure
> enough, it works fine now.
Maybe one of the buttons or switches was stuck on, or had some goop
(beverage, etc) shorting the contacts, and operating the buttons
cleared it? I've seen a remote where a button could be stuck on, but
it was hard to tell by inspection that it was lower than the adjacent
buttons.
Matt Roberds
== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 29 2014 12:37 am
From: N_Cook
On 28/01/2014 20:29, Pat wrote:
> I started using my old Sony STR-AV910 receiver after it had been
> stored for a year or two. Everything worked except the remote. One
> battery was in pretty good shape, but the other showed only 0.8 volts.
> However, neither battery was leaking. I installed new batteries, but
> still no output. I tried removing and reinstalling the batteries a
> few times and finally gave up. (I did learn that, unlike my old
> iPhone, my newer iPhone has an IR filter on its camera, though).
>
> Anyway, I went to 800-remote's web site and saw I could buy a
> refurbished unit. However, if the problem was caused by dried up
> caps, a refurbished unit of the same age might fail soon. While
> thinking about it, I noticed a "fix it yourself" link on their site. I
> clicked on it and was instructed to remove the batteries, press every
> button once, repeat for every setting of the two slide switched and
> then reinsert the batteries. I was very skeptical, but sure enough,
> it works fine now. I can only guess, it needed to be fully reset and
> pressing the buttons fully shorted any charge remaining on high
> impedance input lines of the ic. Any other thoughts on why that
> procedure fixed it? They claim it fixes 1 in 3 failed remotes.
>
> Pat
>
Probably insulating black CuS corrossion on the slide switches,
corrossion under a key would not stop the unit as a whole from
operating. Daily or regular use keeps that corrossion at bay,
by the wiping action of the phosphor bronze sliding contacts.
At least the corrossion product of silver plating is conductive and of
course gold plating does not corrode in normal circumstances.
== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 29 2014 5:04 am
From: "Mark Zacharias"
"Pat" <pat@nospam.us> wrote in message
news:624ge9phm6q03r01nrsm00ioe3fhdp4gee@4ax.com...
>I started using my old Sony STR-AV910 receiver after it had been
> stored for a year or two. Everything worked except the remote. One
> battery was in pretty good shape, but the other showed only 0.8 volts.
> However, neither battery was leaking. I installed new batteries, but
> still no output. I tried removing and reinstalling the batteries a
> few times and finally gave up. (I did learn that, unlike my old
> iPhone, my newer iPhone has an IR filter on its camera, though).
>
> Anyway, I went to 800-remote's web site and saw I could buy a
> refurbished unit. However, if the problem was caused by dried up
> caps, a refurbished unit of the same age might fail soon. While
> thinking about it, I noticed a "fix it yourself" link on their site. I
> clicked on it and was instructed to remove the batteries, press every
> button once, repeat for every setting of the two slide switched and
> then reinsert the batteries. I was very skeptical, but sure enough,
> it works fine now. I can only guess, it needed to be fully reset and
> pressing the buttons fully shorted any charge remaining on high
> impedance input lines of the ic. Any other thoughts on why that
> procedure fixed it? They claim it fixes 1 in 3 failed remotes.
>
> Pat
Seen it many times with many brands. Alway recommend the customer try this
before replacing the remote. Don't need to press all buttons, 2 or 3 will
do.
The chip inside just seems to get locked up.
Mark Z.
==============================================================================
TOPIC: Fuses in place of motor "heaters"? (induction motor protection)
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/0933319a7c117739?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Tues, Jan 28 2014 3:41 pm
From: "Phil Allison"
"boob = bullshit artist"
>>>>> They often are used for short circuit protection of a motor circuit,
>>>>> but
>>>>> not for overload protection.
>>>>
>>>> ** Horse manure !!!!!!!!!!
>>>>
>>>> Overload protection is EXACTLY what circuit breakers are there for.
>>>>
>>>> You cab size them to protect a stalled or overloaded motor or just the
>>>> supply cables.
>>>>
>>>
>>> The step between circuit breaker ratings is far too large to provide
>>> overload protection for motors.
>>
>> ** FFS - asshole try LEARNING TO READ
>>
>> Thermal breakers come in any almost size you like and you fit them
>> between
>> the AC outlet and the load.
>
>> Thermal/ magnetic breakers are not simply for "short circuit protection".
>>
>> They provide cable overload ( overtemp) protection.
>
> Not in the US NEC. And not the practice in the US.
** You are one stupid, lying ass.
WTF do you think AC supply circuit breakers are fucking for?
--------------------------------------------------------------------
> You have such compelling arguments.
** While you have posted NONE at ALL !!!!!!!!
Fuck off - you crazy fucking nut case.
.... Phil
== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 29 2014 12:28 pm
From: bud--
On 1/28/2014 5:41 PM, Phil Allison wrote:
> "boob = bullshit artist"
>
>>>>>> They often are used for short circuit protection of a motor circuit,
>>>>>> but
>>>>>> not for overload protection.
>>>>>
>>>>> ** Horse manure !!!!!!!!!!
>>>>>
>>>>> Overload protection is EXACTLY what circuit breakers are there for.
>>>>>
>>>>> You cab size them to protect a stalled or overloaded motor or just the
>>>>> supply cables.
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>> The step between circuit breaker ratings is far too large to provide
>>>> overload protection for motors.
>>>
>>> ** FFS - asshole try LEARNING TO READ
>>>
>>> Thermal breakers come in any almost size you like and you fit them
>>> between
>>> the AC outlet and the load.
>>
>>> Thermal/ magnetic breakers are not simply for "short circuit protection".
>>> They provide cable overload ( overtemp) protection.
>>
>> Not in the US NEC. And not the practice in the US.
>
> ** You are one stupid, lying ass.
More of the famous Allison logic.
>
> WTF do you think AC supply circuit breakers are fucking for?
You forgot to to answer the question. Maybe because you deleted it.
"What [AC supply circuit] breaker would you use for overload protection
for a motor with a run current of 16.3A. Breaker must be UL listed, able
to withstand motor starting currents, and suitable for use as motor
protection."
That should be a trivial you.
>
>> You have such compelling arguments.
>
>
> ** While you have posted NONE at ALL !!!!!!!!
Only if you can't read !!!!!!!!
>
> Fuck off - you crazy fucking nut case.
Does you mommy approve of your language?
==============================================================================
TOPIC: Harmon Kardon MS-150 ...
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/94492aa4601f463c?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Tues, Jan 28 2014 6:25 pm
From: "Arfa Daily"
"William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:lc62c1$klp$1@dont-email.me...
> "Arfa Daily" wrote in message news:xuuFu.120$ac4.97@fx05.am4...
>
>> No, I haven't. There's a limit to the amount of time that I'm prepared to
>> spend on this consumer junk, governed entirely by the law of diminishing
>> returns. To be honest, if getting inside it involves removing glued-on
>> trims, then I am not interested beyond the point that I have now reached.
>
> To put it a bit more bluntly... Is it not reasonable to assume that a
> product that's glued together is not intended to be repaired?
>
If something is genuinely glued together, then it gets little more than a
cursory look if it crosses my bench. However, this one was slightly
different from that in that it had lots of obvious screws holding the case
halves together, and when these were removed, it was 'almost' coming apart
in the way that you would expect, but something else, right in the middle,
was still preventing it from coming all the way. I'm sure that a bit of
brute force and ignorance would have seen it apart, but it's a fancy
expensive-looking (and probably /actually/ expensive) item, and I was
concerned that something visible might 'give', leaving nasty damage ...
Arfa
== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 29 2014 3:29 am
From: thekmanrocks@gmail.com
WHO the heck are they trying to be: http://static.bootic.com/_pictures/1449104/harman-kardon-ms-150.jpg BOSE?!
That thing looks like the Revel Resort in Atlantic City -LMAO!! At least they could have incorporated the iPod Dock into the cabinet, instead of tacking it onto the side like an afterthought.
I say flip it over and start unscrewing from the bottom.
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TOPIC: Tools to View, Save & Edit Flash Drive Properties?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/f0fa0a23f84aeb57?hl=en
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== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 29 2014 8:10 am
From: KenO
Have a Skymedi usb 1GB flash drive that somehow had its size increased.
Was able to find the Skymedi Production Tool and tried to return this flash drive to its original properties by deleting the config.file but all this did was to change the property size to zero.
Appreciate any tips or links concerning tools to view, save and edit Flash Drive properties.
Thanks
Ken
== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 29 2014 7:28 pm
From: "hrhofmann@sbcglobal.net"
On Wednesday, January 29, 2014 10:10:28 AM UTC-6, KenO wrote:
> Have a Skymedi usb 1GB flash drive that somehow had its size increased. Was able to find the Skymedi Production Tool and tried to return this flash drive to its original properties by deleting the config.file but all this did was to change the property size to zero. Appreciate any tips or links concerning tools to view, save and edit Flash Drive properties. Thanks Ken
1GB drives are so cheap it is probably not worth spending much time on it.
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TOPIC: Owon oscilloscope power supply schema or part info?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/f5f68bb60c6b87eb?hl=en
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== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 29 2014 9:10 am
From: tuinkabouter
On 1/28/2014 4:56 PM, Ismo Salonen wrote:
> Owon has not answered to my query.
At the moment the chinese are celebrating new year.
In china it is big, compare it with Xmas in the us.
Every one is visiting there family.
Don't expect an answer in 10 to 14 days.
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