sci.electronics.repair
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair?hl=en
sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com
Today's topics:
* Soundcraft Compact 4, small mixer , 2005 - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/74e2c87511c7bde3?hl=en
* Harman Kardon AVR30, 1993 - 2 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/6ff015ea21f997c9?hl=en
* Hickock CRO-5000a - 5 messages, 4 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/b6a1f1fdf9eeca5e?hl=en
* Sony Fm-Am receiver, Str-D615 - 2 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/603b7da6bc83fd04?hl=en
* Why are headphone jacks for computers and handsets different diameters than
cellphones? - 6 messages, 3 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/3b636d8ab09f744a?hl=en
* Magnastat soldering iron bits users in the UK , here? - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/f2ca2d42217d01e2?hl=en
* Roomba Batteries - 8 messages, 8 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/0549888190a0d2eb?hl=en
* solutions manual and test banks - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/cf47822616d284e2?hl=en
==============================================================================
TOPIC: Soundcraft Compact 4, small mixer , 2005
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/74e2c87511c7bde3?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Thurs, Feb 20 2014 11:24 am
From: N_Cook
On 20/02/2014 18:53, dave wrote:
> On 02/20/2014 06:54 AM, N_Cook wrote:
>> More a case of lack of use, certainly not due to wear , and as I can see
>> the grease oozing out of the spindle area, presumably compacted grease
>> spots on the tracks.
>> 2 main rotary stereo pots are bad I don't mind attending to individually
>> but half the other such 30 or so rotary pots are "scratchy".
>> I think I'll use my modified electric toothbrush head and methylated
>> spirits squirted in the convenient access hole in these Alpha pots,
>> agitating via the toothbrush reciprocating motion , while plenty of
>> meths inside, in the first instance.
>> Any other ideas? desoldering a load of stereo rotary pots with plated
>> through holes and very close SMD active devices is asking for colateral
>> damage. How to get the grease out or at least redistributed without
>> removing the pots.
>> BTW intrusion of graphic designer cobblers?, its impossible for an owner
>> to remove the DC power connector without pliers or by pulling the lead
>> at the wrong angle, ie straining the usual failure position, because
>> recessed into the side cheeks.
>
> The labor costs more than the thing is worth?
I do wonder how long the pot makers have known about the problem with
the lubricant migrating and the very flimsy wiper metal used in the SMD
era sub16mm pots era. The grase has to only bind a bit and solidify a
bit and the wipers will lift off the track. Ive never seen a worn track
on one of these pots.
==============================================================================
TOPIC: Harman Kardon AVR30, 1993
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/6ff015ea21f997c9?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Thurs, Feb 20 2014 11:30 am
From: N_Cook
An odd fault, no audio out as though in mute mode. The user manual says
if in mute the volume knob LED flashes. What LED, nothing lit, just the
power LED and function LEDs.
The 2 thin wires that loop around the rotating pot motor shaft must have
snagged somewhere and tugged enough to bend up the pcb connector socket
and break a wire somewhere. If no LED load , the amp goes into
protect/mute? the next time the amp is powered up, but caries on as
normal until put in standby.
== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Thurs, Feb 20 2014 1:41 pm
From: jurb6006@gmail.com
My ex-boss used to say "Don't look for elephants whern you might just have fleas". Kinda stupid but makes a point. Don't assume it is some wierdass problem that only me and three otyher techs on the face of the planet could figure ut, like the vertical height for a greyscale problem. (it was related to AKB and a replaced CRT)
Just troubleshoot it normally. It is not an old Fisher in which you don't get multiplex if the light blub burns out.
Just do what you would normally do, the LED may have been out for ten years before the actual fault showed up. If it's a reciever see if it recieves, does it say it gets a signal ? If you put in a signal does it show up on a scope at the volume control ? The tape outputs ? The PRE-OUTs ? (if any) If it's in protect mode, is there offset at the emittter resistors or the output of the STKs or whatever ?
Just do the usual. I have been fooled enough times tha tI now just check out pretty much everything. And while I DO want a statd complaint from the customer, I don't heed it. they are not only supid sometimes, some are even dishonest. Like bring in a TV and say the picture is shrink and you find out the fucking CRT is broken.
Voltages, signal, waveforms. Don't let anything phase you.
==============================================================================
TOPIC: Hickock CRO-5000a
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/b6a1f1fdf9eeca5e?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 5 ==
Date: Thurs, Feb 20 2014 1:52 pm
From: jurb6006@gmail.com
My buddy just picked one up in a deal. I can't seem to find anything on it. It is coming for me to check out and though a print would be nice, I don't even need that. I don't know if the thing is 5 Mhz, 50 Mhz or what. There is one on eBay (I think in the UK) for sale (for $359 !). From the picture it doesn't look like much but you never know. The ad, or one of the google hits indicate that it is solid state at least.
I nothing else it can become a component checker or something, or we can unload it cheap to a student, who might be able to learn something from it a bit easier than a new LCD job. Even an interested kid. I got my first scop when I was about 13 I think. It seemed like a truck in size, it was a Hickock coincidentally and with all that bulk it had a giant three inch scren I think ! If I remember correctly the graticule was glued on, like scotch tape with lines !
The technology was, well, defies words...
anyway, does anyone have any onfo on the CRO-5000a ? If it can be made to work easily I could spec it out, but if there are any problems that require a bunch of effort and/or money I would like to know if it is worth it. Evne a 5 Mhz can be used for some audio work...
Hell, I don't even lnow if it is triggered !
Any info is appreciated.
== 2 of 5 ==
Date: Thurs, Feb 20 2014 4:49 pm
From: "Tom Miller"
<jurb6006@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:99d906a8-2df7-4462-8bef-3d8159196a48@googlegroups.com...
My buddy just picked one up in a deal. I can't seem to find anything on it.
It is coming for me to check out and though a print would be nice, I don't
even need that. I don't know if the thing is 5 Mhz, 50 Mhz or what. There is
one on eBay (I think in the UK) for sale (for $359 !). From the picture it
doesn't look like much but you never know. The ad, or one of the google hits
indicate that it is solid state at least.
I nothing else it can become a component checker or something, or we can
unload it cheap to a student, who might be able to learn something from it a
bit easier than a new LCD job. Even an interested kid. I got my first scop
when I was about 13 I think. It seemed like a truck in size, it was a
Hickock coincidentally and with all that bulk it had a giant three inch
scren I think ! If I remember correctly the graticule was glued on, like
scotch tape with lines !
The technology was, well, defies words...
anyway, does anyone have any onfo on the CRO-5000a ? If it can be made to
work easily I could spec it out, but if there are any problems that require
a bunch of effort and/or money I would like to know if it is worth it. Evne
a 5 Mhz can be used for some audio work...
Hell, I don't even lnow if it is triggered !
Any info is appreciated.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Bama has a Hickok section but I do not see the 5000a listed. Maybe there
might be a close unit that is similar.
http://bama.edebris.com/manuals/hickok/
tm
== 3 of 5 ==
Date: Fri, Feb 21 2014 5:31 am
From: "Phil Allison"
<jurb6006@gmail.com>
There is one on eBay (I think in the UK) for sale (for $359 !).
** That Ebay sale is an absurd scam.
A clapped out, single trace, basic CRO from the 70s is worth about $10 if it
works and nothing if it does not.
... Phil.
== 4 of 5 ==
Date: Fri, Feb 21 2014 7:40 pm
From: "Michael A. Terrell"
jurb6006@gmail.com wrote:
>
> My buddy just picked one up in a deal. I can't seem to find anything on it. It is coming for me to check out and though a print would be nice, I don't even need that. I don't know if the thing is 5 Mhz, 50 Mhz or what. There is one on eBay (I think in the UK) for sale (for $359 !). From the picture it doesn't look like much but you never know. The ad, or one of the google hits indicate that it is solid state at least.
>
> I nothing else it can become a component checker or something, or we can unload it cheap to a student, who might be able to learn something from it a bit easier than a new LCD job. Even an interested kid. I got my first scop when I was about 13 I think. It seemed like a truck in size, it was a Hickock coincidentally and with all that bulk it had a giant three inch scren I think ! If I remember correctly the graticule was glued on, like scotch tape with lines !
>
> The technology was, well, defies words...
>
> anyway, does anyone have any onfo on the CRO-5000a ? If it can be made to work easily I could spec it out, but if there are any problems that require a bunch of effort and/or money I would like to know if it is worth it. Evne a 5 Mhz can be used for some audio work...
>
> Hell, I don't even lnow if it is triggered !
>
> Any info is appreciated.
There are two Hickock CRO-5000 manuals for sale on Ebay right now.
One says it is a transistorized scope. Anyone with half a brain would
contact the seller and ask the specifications, or just buy the damned
manual.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/HICKOK-CRO-5000-MANUAL-/130583437491
--
Anyone wanting to run for any political office in the US should have to
have a DD214, and a honorable discharge.
== 5 of 5 ==
Date: Sat, Feb 22 2014 9:03 am
From: jurb6006@gmail.com
?"Anyone with half a brain would
contact the seller and ask the specifications, or just buy the damned
manual. "
Well I happen to have a whole brain so I am not going to buy a manual for more than the scope might be worth.
Anyway, it is here now. It has a trace and horizontal deflection but I think it is just deflecting at 60Hz, seems like a sinewave. There is no response from the vertical position controls so I didn't bother trying to feed it. If the position controls don't work, it is not going to work unless it is some really strange design.
Probably the power supply. It's not a priotity right now but it would make a spare for in a pinch or peddle it on eBay or something.
==============================================================================
TOPIC: Sony Fm-Am receiver, Str-D615
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/603b7da6bc83fd04?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Thurs, Feb 20 2014 2:02 pm
From: Kaz Kylheku
On 2014-02-19, jurb6006@gmail.com <jurb6006@gmail.com> wrote:
> Did you happen to notice the DATE ? This thread is FOURTEEN YEARS OLD !
That person will never read your reply, because he's likely landed on that
thread out of a keyword search in Google, and has no idea how to find it
again once he closes that browser window.
And, remember, this is someone who thinks that "you're" is a possessive
pronoun.
== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Fri, Feb 21 2014 8:27 am
From: jurb6006@gmail.com
Know what though ?
Fourteen years ago this place was a gas. It had very competent techs and we had real life experience.
Case in point, I posted about this Pioneer RPTV shutting down. I got a reply in a few hours, "R131" or something like that, which was the problem. A 130K going open in the shutdown circuit. that one response saved me hours of time, because someone had done it before. This is good, I thought.
I was on here before then actually. Of ocurse this was my thing, my jovb as well as soe entertainment, whatever. I was very interestd in my profession at the time because I was aking goo d money at it. I helped people here and people helped me.
but things got fucked up over the years like anything else. for one, AOL dropped newsgroups. then late it dropped the hosting whereI could have webpages. At that point I dropped them and I could not find a free wat to get here at gunpoint.
Whatever, I have gained from SER and I hope I have contribbuted equally. In service I know I did.
That's what it('s) (was) al about.
Damn, did I punctuate that right. DOH - correctly. Right is over there >
==============================================================================
TOPIC: Why are headphone jacks for computers and handsets different diameters
than cellphones?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/3b636d8ab09f744a?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 6 ==
Date: Thurs, Feb 20 2014 2:13 pm
From: Kaz Kylheku
On 2014-02-18, Judy Miller <jmiller@not.gmail.com> wrote:
> It always seems I have the wrong diameter headphone jack when I need one.
>
> Since adapters exist, why do they make headphone jacks different
> diameters anyway?
Cell phones used to have 2.5 mm plugs, because cell phones used to be tiny.
Early AMPS (analog mobile phone service) cell phones in the 1980's were
essentially suitcases, and were called "car phones". By the early 1990's, cell
phones had shrunk to the point that they looked like household cordless phones.
A race was on for phones to be smaller and smaller. The smaller the phone the
more "status" it showed. Within about a decade, by the 2000's, phones became
ridiculously tiny. These tiny phones used 2.5 mm headphone jacks to save
space. Every cubic millimeter counts in a compact design.
The trend now is for phones to be larger, because they are now essentially
small tablet computers, and the screen size matters. Nobody wants to use
a 1.5 by 2 inch screen.
These modern smartphones tend to have the usual 3.5 mm (or 1/8") jacks that you
also see on computers.
I.e. long story short; your phone is probably outdated.
== 2 of 6 ==
Date: Thurs, Feb 20 2014 2:14 pm
From: Kaz Kylheku
["Followup-To:" header set to sci.electronics.repair.]
On 2014-02-20, Caulking-Gunn@work.com <Caulking-Gunn@work.com> wrote:
> On Tue, 18 Feb 2014 09:48:17 +0000 (UTC), Judy Miller
><jmiller@not.gmail.com> wrote:
>
>>It always seems I have the wrong diameter headphone jack when I need one.
>>
>>Since adapters exist, why do they make headphone jacks different
>>diameters anyway?
>>
>>Is there a functional difference?
>
> Why would anyone want to use a headphone on a computer?
Laptop in an an area where others are disturbed by your game or movie?
Library? Airplane? Cafe?
Get out much?
== 3 of 6 ==
Date: Thurs, Feb 20 2014 2:22 pm
From: Kaz Kylheku
On 2014-02-20, Kaz Kylheku <kaz@kylheku.com> wrote:
> ["Followup-To:" header set to sci.electronics.repair.]
> On 2014-02-20, Caulking-Gunn@work.com <Caulking-Gunn@work.com> wrote:
>> On Tue, 18 Feb 2014 09:48:17 +0000 (UTC), Judy Miller
>><jmiller@not.gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>>It always seems I have the wrong diameter headphone jack when I need one.
>>>
>>>Since adapters exist, why do they make headphone jacks different
>>>diameters anyway?
>>>
>>>Is there a functional difference?
>>
>> Why would anyone want to use a headphone on a computer?
>
> Laptop in an an area where others are disturbed by your game or movie?
> Library? Airplane? Cafe?
>
> Get out much?
Night time listening on your desktop PC? Or at work in cubicle land: cranking
some tunes, without disturbing coworkers in the next cube?
Don't have a job either?
No wait, I know, you're a billionaire.
You're always in a private space where you can crank whatever you want out of
speakers (and even if people there don't like it, they pretend to). You fly in
your own private jet when you travel. If you do go to a public library, it's to
make some six figure donation, so they close it for a day for your private use
and you can crank music there. A mile of estate separates you from your
closest neighbors, and if you want to listen to something at night, you can go
to a room in the house that is ten doors away from the bedrooms where people
are sleeping.
Yeah, why the hell would anyone need headphones with a computer; it's simply
unimaginable.
== 4 of 6 ==
Date: Thurs, Feb 20 2014 4:24 pm
From: etpm@whidbey.com
On Thu, 20 Feb 2014 22:13:22 +0000 (UTC), Kaz Kylheku
<kaz@kylheku.com> wrote:
>On 2014-02-18, Judy Miller <jmiller@not.gmail.com> wrote:
>> It always seems I have the wrong diameter headphone jack when I need one.
>>
>> Since adapters exist, why do they make headphone jacks different
>> diameters anyway?
>
>Cell phones used to have 2.5 mm plugs, because cell phones used to be tiny.
>
>Early AMPS (analog mobile phone service) cell phones in the 1980's were
>essentially suitcases, and were called "car phones". By the early 1990's, cell
>phones had shrunk to the point that they looked like household cordless phones.
>A race was on for phones to be smaller and smaller. The smaller the phone the
>more "status" it showed. Within about a decade, by the 2000's, phones became
>ridiculously tiny. These tiny phones used 2.5 mm headphone jacks to save
>space. Every cubic millimeter counts in a compact design.
>
>The trend now is for phones to be larger, because they are now essentially
>small tablet computers, and the screen size matters. Nobody wants to use
>a 1.5 by 2 inch screen.
>
>These modern smartphones tend to have the usual 3.5 mm (or 1/8") jacks that you
>also see on computers.
>
>I.e. long story short; your phone is probably outdated.
Years ago I was in the main library in Bellevue WA which is in the
ritzy part of town. There were a few teenage girls hanging out and one
had a phone on a chain around her neck. It was a tiny Motorola flip
phone that at the time was $1500.00 US. She was certainly showing her
status wearing her phone like an ornament.
ERic
---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.
http://www.avast.com
== 5 of 6 ==
Date: Sat, Feb 22 2014 12:48 am
From: Caulking-Gunn@work.com
On Thu, 20 Feb 2014 22:14:36 +0000 (UTC), Kaz Kylheku
<kaz@kylheku.com> wrote:
>["Followup-To:" header set to sci.electronics.repair.]
>On 2014-02-20, Caulking-Gunn@work.com <Caulking-Gunn@work.com> wrote:
>> On Tue, 18 Feb 2014 09:48:17 +0000 (UTC), Judy Miller
>><jmiller@not.gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>>It always seems I have the wrong diameter headphone jack when I need one.
>>>
>>>Since adapters exist, why do they make headphone jacks different
>>>diameters anyway?
>>>
>>>Is there a functional difference?
>>
>> Why would anyone want to use a headphone on a computer?
>
>Laptop in an an area where others are disturbed by your game or movie?
>Library? Airplane? Cafe?
>
>Get out much?
My desktop computer is connected to my stereo. My MP3s and videos
sound great. I have all those annoying "computer sounds", like beeps
and alerts that MS has in their OSs, disabled. I dont want or need
that crap. In fact I normally have the stereo shut off, except when I
an listening to music or videos. What irritates me, are websites that
have sound, and suddenly my nerves would get shattered by some
unexpected sound, which is why I leave the stereo off during web
browsing.
== 6 of 6 ==
Date: Sat, Feb 22 2014 12:49 am
From: Caulking-Gunn@work.com
On Thu, 20 Feb 2014 01:15:43 -0500, "Michael A. Terrell"
<mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote:
>
> Why would anyone need a 'caulking gunn' for anything?
For sucking caulk :)
==============================================================================
TOPIC: Magnastat soldering iron bits users in the UK , here?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/f2ca2d42217d01e2?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Fri, Feb 21 2014 12:34 am
From: N_Cook
I dismantled a 240V soldering iron heater. All these years I thought it
would disintegrate into a pile of mica but now I see the secret, should
be no problem making one. How do you form mica into a tube, simple. You
part score mm apart lines into the material, then it will roll neatly.
This one accepts a magnastat tip so may even be reusable in itself with
the right resistance wire for 24V 50W instead of this one of 4,000 ohm .
Mica tube 6.7 and 5.8mm diameters as a former and 2 layers of wire with
an interlayer of 10x35mm scored sheet of mica rolled up, terminals just
clipped over the central core.
==============================================================================
TOPIC: Roomba Batteries
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/0549888190a0d2eb?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 8 ==
Date: Fri, Feb 21 2014 9:31 am
From: "Charlie"
I have had this robotic floor sweeper for a half dozen years. The original
NiCad battery died and I replaced it with an aftermarket NiMh replacement
that worked fine for several years.
Now the robot fails after a few minutes with a red light showing that
indicates insufficient power. The service info says to remove the battery
and to press a particular button to "reset the battery". Of course, this
procedure doesn't reset the battery, but resets whatever sensing circuit
checks the battery. I tried that. Still fails. The NiMh replacement is
labeled 14.4 volts. My cheap VOM show about 14-15 volts. Seems good to me.
I sent an email to the robot company asking for their take on the problem.
Their response was that buying a new NiCad from them would solve the
problem.
I am a skeptic. I think that customer service just has a checklist that is
simple-minded and covers only what the average consumer can do.
Along with the email response was a phone number if there was still a
problem. I called and essentially got the same answer. I said that my
concern is that a new battery will not solve the problem. I think that the
voltage sensing circuit has failed. I asked if there wasn't someone who
understood the inner workings of this box who could shed light on what is
happening. I was put on hold and then was told that there was nobody else to
talk to.
What was offered was a discount on the replacement and that if it did not
solve the problem the replacement could be returned for a refund. I bit at
that offer and we will see what happens.
I am open to thoughts that there is a reason that the replacement battery is
at fault. If the fault is in the robot, it is doomed to the recycle bin.
There is not likely to be anything that I can do without a service procedure
for guidance. I also suspect there will be a control board with
non-standard components that are unobtainable.
Charlie
== 2 of 8 ==
Date: Fri, Feb 21 2014 11:18 am
From: Kaz Kylheku
On 2014-02-21, Charlie <left@thestation.com> wrote:
> I have had this robotic floor sweeper for a half dozen years. The original
> NiCad battery died and I replaced it with an aftermarket NiMh replacement
> that worked fine for several years.
>
> Now the robot fails after a few minutes with a red light showing that
> indicates insufficient power. The service info says to remove the battery
> and to press a particular button to "reset the battery". Of course, this
> procedure doesn't reset the battery, but resets whatever sensing circuit
> checks the battery. I tried that. Still fails. The NiMh replacement is
> labeled 14.4 volts. My cheap VOM show about 14-15 volts. Seems good to me.
It means nothing that the battery shows 14V into a multimeter's
multi-million-ohm impedance.
That is not an indicator of its capacity, nor of its ability to supply current.
How about this test: can that battery light a 12V bulb rated for several
watts? And for how long?
> I am open to thoughts that there is a reason that the replacement battery is
> at fault.
One reason would be that the replacement battery is no longer new; you've had
it in there for several years already. These things don't last forever.
Batteries are actually complicated and fascinating. There is a lot
of info on the "Battery University" website, if you're interested:
http://batteryuniversity.com/
Read this:
http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/Nickel_based_batteries
Especially, find the table of Advantages/Limitations of NiMh batteries.
Among the limitatons of NiMh:
- "Limited service life; deep discharge reduces service life"
- "Requires complex charge algorithm"
Regarding the last one, what are the odds a device designed for NiCd batteries
does *not* implement the "complex charge algorithm" required for NiMh?
Contrast that with NiCd:
- "Fast and simple charging even after prolonged storage"
- "High number of charge/discharge cycles; provides over 1,000
charge/discharge cycles with proper maintenance."
> If the fault is in the robot, it is doomed to the recycle bin.
You do realize that "I intend to throw it away if it actually needs repair" is
hardly in the right spirit for an electronics repair newsgroup.
== 3 of 8 ==
Date: Fri, Feb 21 2014 11:35 am
From: dplatt@coop.radagast.org (David Platt)
In article <le82hd$d82$1@dont-email.me>, Charlie <left@thestation.com> wrote:
>I have had this robotic floor sweeper for a half dozen years. The original
>NiCad battery died and I replaced it with an aftermarket NiMh replacement
>that worked fine for several years.
>
>Now the robot fails after a few minutes with a red light showing that
>indicates insufficient power. The service info says to remove the battery
>and to press a particular button to "reset the battery". Of course, this
>procedure doesn't reset the battery, but resets whatever sensing circuit
>checks the battery. I tried that. Still fails. The NiMh replacement is
>labeled 14.4 volts. My cheap VOM show about 14-15 volts. Seems good to me.
Are you measuring the voltage "open-circuit", or with a current load
similar to what the Roomba actually draws while it's operating?
You may find that the battery voltage "sags" badly when it's under
load. If so, it's probably dying and will need to be replaced.
Try temporarily connecting a power resistor or other load across the
battery terminals... something like a car tail-light bulb would be
good... pull a half-amp or so out of the battery, and see what sort of
voltage is delivered under those circumstances.
My understanding is that NiMH batteries are more easily damaged by
over-charging than NiCd... even low-level "trickle charging" of a NiMH
can cook it when it's full.
It's somewhat tricker to detect "full charge" in a NiMH than a NiCd.
With a NiCd, the terminal voltage rises as you charge it, then peaks,
and then begins to drop (this happens at full charge, when the current
into the battery ceases to pump up the electrochemistry and just heats
up the battery). NiMH cells don't show such a substantial drop in
terminal voltage at full-charge... the terminal voltage stops rising
("zero delta V") but doesn't start falling ("negative delta V").
What this means, is that many devices which were built with "NiCd"
charging circuits, will tend to over-charge NiMH batteries and
appreciably shorten their lives.
== 4 of 8 ==
Date: Fri, Feb 21 2014 12:32 pm
From: "hrhofmann@sbcglobal.net"
On Friday, February 21, 2014 11:31:28 AM UTC-6, Charlie wrote:
> I have had this robotic floor sweeper for a half dozen years. The original NiCad battery died and I replaced it with an aftermarket NiMh replacement that worked fine for several years. Now the robot fails after a few minutes with a red light showing that indicates insufficient power. The service info says to remove the battery and to press a particular button to "reset the battery". Of course, this procedure doesn't reset the battery, but resets whatever sensing circuit checks the battery. I tried that. Still fails. The NiMh replacement is labeled 14.4 volts. My cheap VOM show about 14-15 volts. Seems good to me. I sent an email to the robot company asking for their take on the problem. Their response was that buying a new NiCad from them would solve the problem. I am a skeptic. I think that customer service just has a checklist that is simple-minded and covers only what the average consumer can do. Along with the email response was a phone number if there was still a problem. I called and essentially got the same answer. I said that my concern is that a new battery will not solve the problem. I think that the voltage sensing circuit has failed. I asked if there wasn't someone who understood the inner workings of this box who could shed light on what is happening. I was put on hold and then was told that there was nobody else to talk to. What was offered was a discount on the replacement and that if it did not solve the problem the replacement could be returned for a refund. I bit at that offer and we will see what happens. I am open to thoughts that there is a reason that the replacement battery is at fault. If the fault is in the robot, it is doomed to the recycle bin. There is not likely to be anything that I can do without a service procedure for guidance. I also suspect there will be a control board with non-standard components that are unobtainable. Charlie
We don't even know that the battery is being fukky or partially recharged, at all or maybe incorrectly since NiCad and NMh batteries are somewhat different as other poster have noted.
== 5 of 8 ==
Date: Fri, Feb 21 2014 2:18 pm
From: Cydrome Leader
Charlie <left@thestation.com> wrote:
> I have had this robotic floor sweeper for a half dozen years. The original
> NiCad battery died and I replaced it with an aftermarket NiMh replacement
> that worked fine for several years.
>
> Now the robot fails after a few minutes with a red light showing that
> indicates insufficient power. The service info says to remove the battery
> and to press a particular button to "reset the battery". Of course, this
have you lubed the motor and geartrain at all? roombas get all dirty and
nasty inside and can grind to a halt.
A hard running powertrain could drain a questionable to start with battery
or cause a low voltage problem.
== 6 of 8 ==
Date: Fri, Feb 21 2014 3:05 pm
From: Jeff Liebermann
On Fri, 21 Feb 2014 12:31:28 -0500, "Charlie" <left@thestation.com>
wrote:
>I have had this robotic floor sweeper for a half dozen years.
What's the exact model number? I've fixed a few of these and found
that each has its own idiosyncrasies.
>The original
>NiCad battery died and I replaced it with an aftermarket NiMh replacement
>that worked fine for several years.
Perhaps it would be helpful if you converted "several" into a number.
How many years did the NiMH battery last? More specifically,
approximately how many charge cycles? A really good NiMH battery will
last for about 1000 cycles if everything is done perfectly, or about
50 charge cycles if you do everything wrong. Much depends on the
detection of the EOC (end of charge) point in the charge controller.
If it's a dozen years old and was originally designed for a NiCd, it
is unlikely that the EOC algorithm is suitable for an NiMH battery.
You can easily overcharge the battery, with will kill an NiMH battery
rather quickly.
>The NiMh replacement is
>labeled 14.4 volts. My cheap VOM show about 14-15 volts. Seems good to me.
Test it under a load outside of the sweeper. Try to approximate the
operating current of the Roomba with a resistor. For more accurate
results, borrow a discharge tester such as a West Mtn Radio CBA:
<http://www.westmountainradio.com/cba.php>
>I sent an email to the robot company asking for their take on the problem.
>Their response was that buying a new NiCad from them would solve the
>problem.
You can get a NiCd replacement cheaper on eBay or Amazon. If you're
not sure if the charger will work properly with an NiMH battery, then
perhaps reverting to a NiCd might not be such a bad idea.
>I am a skeptic.
I am a cynic.
>I think that customer service just has a checklist that is
>simple-minded and covers only what the average consumer can do.
In my experience, that covers at least 90% of the questions. Answers
like "is it plugged in?" are all too common. In the distant past, I
spent some time on a support phone pool creating a database of boiler
plate answers. I wasn't too happy with the software or my answers,
but it was a start and worked tolerably well.
>Along with the email response was a phone number if there was still a
>problem. I called and essentially got the same answer. I said that my
>concern is that a new battery will not solve the problem. I think that the
>voltage sensing circuit has failed.
The only way you're going to know if the voltage sensing or whatever
circuit has failed is to either buy or borrow a known working battery.
Troubleshooting by replacment is an old and quite effective method of
fixing things.
>I asked if there wasn't someone who
>understood the inner workings of this box who could shed light on what is
>happening. I was put on hold and then was told that there was nobody else to
>talk to.
I used to design marine radios. The dealers knew the engineers by
name and usually bypassed the normal support channels. They would
spread the broken radio onto the table, and then have me walk them
through the troubleshooting and repair. That saved them the cost of
hiring a qualified technician. That might explain why there was
nobody available with a clue.
>What was offered was a discount on the replacement and that if it did not
>solve the problem the replacement could be returned for a refund. I bit at
>that offer and we will see what happens.
I suspect a replacement battery would have been cheaper and faster.
>I am open to thoughts that there is a reason that the replacement battery is
>at fault.
You may have killed the NiMH with a charger made for a NiCd. Or, you
overcharged it with a charger that didn't have a suitable EOC circuit.
>If the fault is in the robot, it is doomed to the recycle bin.
<http://www.ifixit.com/Manifesto>
>There is not likely to be anything that I can do without a service procedure
>for guidance. I also suspect there will be a control board with
>non-standard components that are unobtainable.
About half of my repairs are mechanical, not electrical. A sweeper
full of hair, dirt, and crud will bog the motor, causing the battery
to drain or die rather quickly. Add those that like to fix things
with far too much oil, which soon turns to tar. It's amazing how many
things can be fixed by simply cleaning out the crud.
Good luck.
--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
== 7 of 8 ==
Date: Fri, Feb 21 2014 10:40 pm
From: "Phil Allison"
"Charlie"
>
>
> I sent an email to the robot company asking for their take on the
> problem. Their response was that buying a new NiCad from them would solve
> the problem.
** They are probably right.
But NiCds are getting scarce these days and you might find replacement packs
for appliances are rather old and hence not in top condition when you get
them.
I bought some sub C cells for my Bosch screwdriver the other day and found
that Sanyo no longer sell NiCd cells under their own name - but badged "
Panasonic " instead. The fine print says made by Sanyo and they look exactly
like the N-1700SCR cells I was after so it was all OK.
IME buying loose cells from a wholesaler is a lot safer than some dodgy
after market or even OEM pack that could be ten years old.
... Phil
== 8 of 8 ==
Date: Sat, Feb 22 2014 7:52 am
From: mjb@signal11.invalid (Mike)
In article <le8jc0$srm$1@reader1.panix.com>,
Cydrome Leader <presence@MUNGEpanix.com> wrote:
>have you lubed the motor and geartrain at all? roombas get all dirty and
>nasty inside and can grind to a halt.
>
>A hard running powertrain could drain a questionable to start with battery
>or cause a low voltage problem.
I recall reading this somewhere else, it involved removing the brush/rollers
and literally chiselling out a couple of bearings made out of compressed,
burnt (by friction) hair. Followed by some hacking to prevent it happening
again, because -- it did keep picking up and storing more burnt hair!
It caused a "motor overload" situation, but that would have knock on effects
for the battery getting overloaded too.
--
--------------------------------------+------------------------------------
Mike Brown: mjb[-at-]signal11.org.uk | http://www.signal11.org.uk
--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: news@netfront.net ---
==============================================================================
TOPIC: solutions manual and test banks
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/cf47822616d284e2?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Fri, Feb 21 2014 1:30 pm
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Google Groups: http://groups.google.com/?hl=en
sci.electronics.repair - 26 new messages in 9 topics - digest
sci.electronics.repair
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair?hl=en
sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com
Today's topics:
* Truth brand electrolytic capacitors - 2 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/024736b296c3838f?hl=en
* Sony Fm-Am receiver, Str-D615 - 6 messages, 4 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/603b7da6bc83fd04?hl=en
* Fuse for motor protection? - 3 messages, 3 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/4aa544fb8b4b8aa0?hl=en
* 3.5mm stereo headphone socket that isn't. - 4 messages, 3 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/28320987875a2efc?hl=en
* Why are headphone jacks for computers and handsets different diameters than
cellphones? - 4 messages, 4 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/3b636d8ab09f744a?hl=en
* Soundcraft Compact 4, small mixer , 2005 - 3 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/74e2c87511c7bde3?hl=en
* A Brief Introduction to Islam - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/c2d4e34bf9bab000?hl=en
* Harman Kardon AVR30, 1993 - 2 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/6ff015ea21f997c9?hl=en
* Hickock CRO-5000a - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/b6a1f1fdf9eeca5e?hl=en
==============================================================================
TOPIC: Truth brand electrolytic capacitors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/024736b296c3838f?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Wed, Feb 19 2014 8:09 am
From: jurb6006@gmail.com
Before the CURRENT plague. Those look like what was in Mitsubishi TVs.
Those babies leaked conductive goop all over the board, yet were not electrically leaky themselves. Go figure.
== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Wed, Feb 19 2014 12:56 pm
From: Trevor Wilson
On 18/02/2014 6:13 PM, John Robertson wrote:
> On 02/17/2014 11:53 AM, Trevor Wilson wrote:
>> On 17/02/2014 1:36 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
>>> <http://wtfmoogle.com/?p=3585>
>>> Now, there is something I haven't seen before. Electrolytics that
>>> bulge and leak goo without any applied voltage. Probably useful for
>>> ultra-short product warranties.
>>>
>>
>> **Last year I ordered a couple of hundred caps from my local supplier. I
>> commenced using the caps. Around 10% showed signs of leakage within a
>> short time. All before I installed them into products. I recalled the
>> products they were installed in, and sent the whole lot back to the
>> supplier for a refund. Some of the caps I had installed were showing
>> signs of distress. A hollow act, since the cost of the caps was
>> insignificant compared to the cost of re-repairing the products they
>> were installed in. I have setttled on a new, more reliable supplier.
>>
>
> We tend to only use Panasonic caps from Digi-Key, Mouser, etc. No
> problems with these! The cheap ones only lead to callbacks.
>
> John :-#(#
>
**Yup. That is the approach I've used for the last couple of years.
Panasonic caps = no call-backs. Sourced from Element 14.
--
Trevor Wilson www.rageaudio.com.au
==============================================================================
TOPIC: Sony Fm-Am receiver, Str-D615
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/603b7da6bc83fd04?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 6 ==
Date: Wed, Feb 19 2014 8:12 am
From: jurb6006@gmail.com
On Wednesday, February 19, 2014 4:54:05 AM UTC-5, blhbr...@gmail.com wrote:
> you're stereo probably has a small pece off metal inside on the bord try to tip it upside down and tap on it to see if you here any thing lose if not then you receiver board may be defective but this is only because I've owed alot if them I'm in need of the front price mine simply burnt out
Did you happen to notice the DATE ? This thread is FOURTEEN YEARS OLD !
Would YOU wait 14 years to get a junkass Sony reciever fixed ?
BTW, where is Jerry ? In fact where are all the people who usaed to post here ?
== 2 of 6 ==
Date: Wed, Feb 19 2014 8:38 am
From: Michael Black
On Wed, 19 Feb 2014, jurb6006@gmail.com wrote:
> On Wednesday, February 19, 2014 4:54:05 AM UTC-5, blhbr...@gmail.com wrote:
>> you're stereo probably has a small pece off metal inside on the bord
>> try to tip it upside down and tap on it to see if you here any thing
>> lose if not then you receiver board may be defective but this is only
>> because I've owed alot if them I'm in need of the front price mine
>> simply burnt out
>
> Did you happen to notice the DATE ? This thread is FOURTEEN YEARS OLD !
>
The guy didn't even quote what he was replying to, and didn't even format
things properly, so it looked like a first post in a thread rather than a
reply to one. Look inside, and it barely was readable.
>
> Would YOU wait 14 years to get a junkass Sony reciever fixed ?
>
But he didnt' really reply to be helfpul, he replied because he's looking
for a junker. I doubt he realized the message was old, but I suspect
wishful thinking is why he replied, hoping to get that front panel he
needs (or I think that's what he's asking).
It boggles my mind that people think there's value in replying to old
messages, when they aren't even in the right place. If they want
something, there are venues for buying and selling, and which see more
traffic than we get here. There's that new thing, ebay, that seems to
be getting a lot of attention, and is more likely to produce the needed
scrap unit (or just the front panel) than posting here.
> BTW, where is Jerry ? In fact where are all the people who usaed to post
> here ?
>
Some just changed their lives I think. Later this year it's 20 years
since I first saw this newsgroup, and the only other one in the hierarcy
was sci.electronics. Some of the regulars disappeared long enough ago that
I just assume their lives changed and they had less time for the
newsgroup. I've always assumed Sam, who was so big here at one
point, had less time to spend here. People who disappeared later, it
might be that they were lured by other forums.
Michael
== 3 of 6 ==
Date: Wed, Feb 19 2014 11:12 am
From: Allodoxaphobia
On Wed, 19 Feb 2014 08:12:21 -0800 (PST), jurb6006@gmail.com wrote:
> On Wednesday, February 19, 2014 4:54:05 AM UTC-5, blhbr...@gmail.com wrote:
>> you're stereo probably has a small pece off metal inside on the bord try to tip it upside down and tap on it to see if you here any thing lose if not then you receiver board may be defective but this is only because I've owed alot if them I'm in need of the front price mine simply burnt out
>
> Did you happen to notice the DATE ? This thread is FOURTEEN YEARS OLD !
heh.. The OP was just another Google Grooper:
Message-ID: <c8eec3dc-b626-4b16-90a9-5efb7a0f0fae@googlegroups.com>
... with to-be-expected grammar and spelling issuse.
== 4 of 6 ==
Date: Wed, Feb 19 2014 11:34 am
From: jurb6006@gmail.com
Actually I used to get here from AOL. Right now I am using google. Sucks, but it works. Anyway, since I know how google sucks, err works, what I don't understand is how he is getting so far back.
Google presents the threads newest first, 30 at a time. To get 14 years back, this guy must have sat there all day scrolling down until it says "Loading more topics" about 100 times.
== 5 of 6 ==
Date: Wed, Feb 19 2014 12:16 pm
From: Michael Black
On Wed, 19 Feb 2014, jurb6006@gmail.com wrote:
> Actually I used to get here from AOL. Right now I am using google.
> Sucks, but it works. Anyway, since I know how google sucks, err works,
> what I don't understand is how he is getting so far back.
>
> Google presents the threads newest first, 30 at a time. To get 14 years
> back, this guy must have sat there all day scrolling down until it says
> "Loading more topics" about 100 times.
>
The search engine may work sometimes still.
IN this case, he was looking for a front panel, so he likely did a search,
and then didnt' pay attention to the date (though why he didn't try email
is a wonder, except google garbles so much that I suspect the email
address isn't readily available).
But I just saw one in another newsgroup to a post a four years old, and
it's some "useful help" to the original poster. I can't figure out how
someone comes upon that, and then has something of value to add. I can
see someone looking for a solution and then asking further in an old
thread (not that I think it's a valid way to do things), but to add a
suggestion for help?
Some of those, the problem has long been solved, since the software has
changed. Then it gets silly as someone else replies to the original post
now that it's been bumped up at google, and tells the original poster "get
newer software" as if in 1994 there was newer software.
Or, the late repliers never bother to read the whole thread, so they never
see that ample suggestions were given way back then to possible solutions.
Michael
== 6 of 6 ==
Date: Thurs, Feb 20 2014 6:00 am
From: Leif Neland
Den 19-02-2014, skrev Michael Black:
> But I just saw one in another newsgroup to a post a four years old, and it's
> some "useful help" to the original poster. I can't figure out how someone
> comes upon that, and then has something of value to add. I can see someone
> looking for a solution and then asking further in an old thread (not that I
> think it's a valid way to do things), but to add a suggestion for help?
>
I've done that sometimes.
I was looking for an answer, but only found unanswered questions.
Then I found the answer off-line, or by myself, and went back and added
my answer, so somebody else could use it.
And I felt good afterwards :-)
But I wish google would ask "Are you really sure you want to answer
such an old message?"
I've also asked about how to repair my garden scredder (sp?), and two
years later I got a call if I still got it, because he needed it for
spare parts. I did have it, and got some money for it.
Leif
--
Husk kørelys bagpå, hvis din bilfabrikant har taget den idiotiske
beslutning at undlade det.
==============================================================================
TOPIC: Fuse for motor protection?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/4aa544fb8b4b8aa0?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Wed, Feb 19 2014 9:27 am
From: Jon Elson
Mike Cook wrote:
>> However I reckon you would be better off with thermal protection if the
>> motor does not have it.
>
> How does thermal protection work? I understand the safety mechanism, but
> if a motor is heating up under load, isn't it drawing over-max current?
> Shouldn't the (carefully-chosen value) fuse blow?
>
> I need to learn about this, I know...
The phase angle of induction motors changes with varying load.
The current draw only changes a little with loads from zero
to the motor's rating. So, if the motor is rated
at 1/2 Hp, 208 V, the running current at rated load
will be something just over 2 A.
I = (745 W * 1/2 * 1.2 (efficiency))/208
At idle, the current may be 1.5 - 1.7 A with a very low power
factor (phase angle near 90 degrees lagging). At full load,
the current will be about 2.1 A with a phase angle of maybe
5 - 10 degrees. This, the motor draws more REAL POWER at
full load, but the current doesn't change much throughout the
range the motor is rated for. This is why external fusing
for motors is to protect the building wiring from fire, it
does not protect the motor from minor overload or overheating.
Internal thermal protectors actually measure the temperature
INSIDE the motor, and thus are a lot more effective.
Jon
== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Wed, Feb 19 2014 10:54 am
From: "Ian Field"
"Mike Cook" <mcham@NOTyahoo.com> wrote in message
news:0001HW.CF299E2407BCD35AB01029BF@news.eternal-september.org...
>> However I reckon you would be better off with thermal protection if the
>> motor does not have it.
>
> How does thermal protection work? I understand the safety mechanism, but
> if a
> motor is heating up under load, isn't it drawing over-max current?
> Shouldn't
> the (carefully-chosen value) fuse blow?
There's usually a fair bit of heaving and grunting as a motor starts
spinning - especially if it starts under load.
Even a slow-blow fuse that can handle the second or two of what is pretty
much stall-current, will carry enough steady running current to let the
magic smoke out if a fault/overload develops.
== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Thurs, Feb 20 2014 5:17 am
From: "Wild_Bill"
A fuse is not a replacement for a properly-sized motor OLP overload
protection device.
A fuse will protect wiring, as previously stated.. but you'll just keep
asking the question until you get the answer you want, right?
Overload protectors and TP thermal protection devices aren't the same, and
are intended for completely different situations.
The OLP will react rapidly to protect a motor in the event of a sudden
machine jam or other fault.
The application was previously stated to be a bandsaw which previously had a
smaller motor on it.
Generally, fuses aren't motor protection devices, and won't replace a proper
OLP.
--
Cheers,
WB
.............
"Mike Cook" <mcham@NOTyahoo.com> wrote in message
news:0001HW.CF26EAE3071AD086B01029BF@news.eternal-september.org...
>A small 1/2 hp induction motor is turned on and off with a motor-rated
>toggle
> switch connected to a 208V 20A branch circuit. No other protection
> installed.
>
>
> Obviously not enough protection so I'm planning to add a slow-blow 9A fuse
> (rating of the motor) to keep it safe.
>
> Any objections?
>
==============================================================================
TOPIC: 3.5mm stereo headphone socket that isn't.
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/28320987875a2efc?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 4 ==
Date: Wed, Feb 19 2014 12:28 pm
From: etpm@whidbey.com
On Wed, 19 Feb 2014 15:06:14 -0000, "Gareth Magennis"
<sound.service@btconnect.com> wrote:
>
>"dave" <ricketzz@earthlink.net> wrote in message
>news:ZNCdnS9txdPUWJnOnZ2dnUVZ_vudnZ2d@earthlink.com...
>> On 02/19/2014 02:37 AM, Gareth Magennis wrote:
>>> I don't get this at all.
>>>
>>> I need a 3.5mm switched stereo headphone socket to replace a broken
>>> surface
>>> mount PCB socket.
>>>
>>> So I bought this, the only one that Farnell sell.
>>> http://www.schurter.ch/var/schurter/storage/ilcatalogue/files/document/datasheet/en/pdf/typ_4802.2300.pdf
>>>
>>> http://uk.farnell.com/schurter/4802-2300/socket-3-5mm-jack-panel-3pole/dp/143336
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Only it is the wrong dimensions to fit a standard 3.5mm headphone jack.
>>> The
>>> jack plug will not go far enough into the socket, as the plug's collar
>>> meets
>>> the threaded part of the socket too early.
>>>
>>> Now I've measured a couple of headphone plugs, one on my Sony headphones,
>>> and from the collar to the end of the centre pin is 14mm. From the
>>> technical drawing above, it is clear that there is no way this can
>>> actually
>>> fit.
>>>
>>> In this technical drawing is another drawing of a 3.5mm plug that
>>> presumably
>>> mates with this socket, because it does not have the collar you find on
>>> headphone jack plugs.
>>>
>>>
>>> So are there 2 different types of 3.5mm plug/socket standards?
>>>
>>>
>>> Bizarre.
>>>
>>>
>>
>> They come in 2, 3 or 4 conductor versions. They are all the same length in
>> my shop.
>
>
>
>This is a typical 3.5mm plug, length of shaft = 14.25mm
>http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/1680205.pdf
>
>This is the Schurter one, length of shaft = 18.6mm.
>http://www.schurter.ch/var/schurter/storage/ilcatalogue/files/document/datasheet/en/pdf/typ_4802.1300.pdf
>
>
>They are not compatible.
>
>Gareth.
>
Not any help but did anybody notice that the Schurter is longer?
Eric
---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.
http://www.avast.com
== 2 of 4 ==
Date: Wed, Feb 19 2014 5:17 pm
From: Rheilly Phoull
On 20/02/14 04:28, etpm@whidbey.com wrote:
> On Wed, 19 Feb 2014 15:06:14 -0000, "Gareth Magennis"
> <sound.service@btconnect.com> wrote:
>
>>
>> "dave" <ricketzz@earthlink.net> wrote in message
>> news:ZNCdnS9txdPUWJnOnZ2dnUVZ_vudnZ2d@earthlink.com...
>>> On 02/19/2014 02:37 AM, Gareth Magennis wrote:
>>>> I don't get this at all.
>>>>
>>>> I need a 3.5mm switched stereo headphone socket to replace a broken
>>>> surface
>>>> mount PCB socket.
>>>>
>>>> So I bought this, the only one that Farnell sell.
>>>> http://www.schurter.ch/var/schurter/storage/ilcatalogue/files/document/datasheet/en/pdf/typ_4802.2300.pdf
>>>>
>>>> http://uk.farnell.com/schurter/4802-2300/socket-3-5mm-jack-panel-3pole/dp/143336
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Only it is the wrong dimensions to fit a standard 3.5mm headphone jack.
>>>> The
>>>> jack plug will not go far enough into the socket, as the plug's collar
>>>> meets
>>>> the threaded part of the socket too early.
>>>>
>>>> Now I've measured a couple of headphone plugs, one on my Sony headphones,
>>>> and from the collar to the end of the centre pin is 14mm. From the
>>>> technical drawing above, it is clear that there is no way this can
>>>> actually
>>>> fit.
>>>>
>>>> In this technical drawing is another drawing of a 3.5mm plug that
>>>> presumably
>>>> mates with this socket, because it does not have the collar you find on
>>>> headphone jack plugs.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> So are there 2 different types of 3.5mm plug/socket standards?
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Bizarre.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>> They come in 2, 3 or 4 conductor versions. They are all the same length in
>>> my shop.
>>
>>
>>
>> This is a typical 3.5mm plug, length of shaft = 14.25mm
>> http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/1680205.pdf
>>
>>
>> http://www.schurter.ch/var/schurter/storage/ilcatalogue/files/document/datasheet/en/pdf/typ_4802.1300.pdf
>>
>>
>> They are not compatible.
>>
>> Gareth.
>>
> Not any help but did anybody notice that the Schurter is longer?
> Eric
>
> ---
> This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.
> http://www.avast.com
>
Which part of the message saying "The Schurter is 18mm long" did you not
understand ??
== 3 of 4 ==
Date: Thurs, Feb 20 2014 9:16 am
From: etpm@whidbey.com
On Thu, 20 Feb 2014 09:17:18 +0800, Rheilly Phoull
<rheilly@bigslong.com> wrote:
>On 20/02/14 04:28, etpm@whidbey.com wrote:
>> On Wed, 19 Feb 2014 15:06:14 -0000, "Gareth Magennis"
>> <sound.service@btconnect.com> wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> "dave" <ricketzz@earthlink.net> wrote in message
>>> news:ZNCdnS9txdPUWJnOnZ2dnUVZ_vudnZ2d@earthlink.com...
>>>> On 02/19/2014 02:37 AM, Gareth Magennis wrote:
>>>>> I don't get this at all.
>>>>>
>>>>> I need a 3.5mm switched stereo headphone socket to replace a broken
>>>>> surface
>>>>> mount PCB socket.
>>>>>
>>>>> So I bought this, the only one that Farnell sell.
>>>>> http://www.schurter.ch/var/schurter/storage/ilcatalogue/files/document/datasheet/en/pdf/typ_4802.2300.pdf
>>>>>
>>>>> http://uk.farnell.com/schurter/4802-2300/socket-3-5mm-jack-panel-3pole/dp/143336
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Only it is the wrong dimensions to fit a standard 3.5mm headphone jack.
>>>>> The
>>>>> jack plug will not go far enough into the socket, as the plug's collar
>>>>> meets
>>>>> the threaded part of the socket too early.
>>>>>
>>>>> Now I've measured a couple of headphone plugs, one on my Sony headphones,
>>>>> and from the collar to the end of the centre pin is 14mm. From the
>>>>> technical drawing above, it is clear that there is no way this can
>>>>> actually
>>>>> fit.
>>>>>
>>>>> In this technical drawing is another drawing of a 3.5mm plug that
>>>>> presumably
>>>>> mates with this socket, because it does not have the collar you find on
>>>>> headphone jack plugs.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> So are there 2 different types of 3.5mm plug/socket standards?
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Bizarre.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>> They come in 2, 3 or 4 conductor versions. They are all the same length in
>>>> my shop.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> This is a typical 3.5mm plug, length of shaft = 14.25mm
>>> http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/1680205.pdf
>>>
>>>
>>> http://www.schurter.ch/var/schurter/storage/ilcatalogue/files/document/datasheet/en/pdf/typ_4802.1300.pdf
>>>
>>>
>>> They are not compatible.
>>>
>>> Gareth.
>>>
>> Not any help but did anybody notice that the Schurter is longer?
>> Eric
>>
>> ---
>> This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.
>> http://www.avast.com
>>
>Which part of the message saying "The Schurter is 18mm long" did you not
>understand ??
I did understand the message. I just noticed that the name "Schurter
is pretty close to the word "shorter" and I thought it was funny that
the shorter one was longer. Sheesh!
Etic
---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.
http://www.avast.com
== 4 of 4 ==
Date: Thurs, Feb 20 2014 10:54 am
From: dave
On 02/20/2014 09:16 AM, etpm@whidbey.com wrote:
> On Thu, 20 Feb 2014 09:17:18 +0800, Rheilly Phoull
> <rheilly@bigslong.com> wrote:
>
>
>>>> They are not compatible.
>>>>
>>>> Gareth.
>>>>
>>> Not any help but did anybody notice that the Schurter is longer?
>>> Eric
>>>
>>> ---
>>> This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.
>>> http://www.avast.com
>>>
>> Which part of the message saying "The Schurter is 18mm long" did you not
>> understand ??
> I did understand the message. I just noticed that the name "Schurter
> is pretty close to the word "shorter" and I thought it was funny that
> the shorter one was longer. Sheesh!
> Etic
>
> ---
> This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.
> http://www.avast.com
>
Some people have no sense of Yuma.
==============================================================================
TOPIC: Why are headphone jacks for computers and handsets different diameters
than cellphones?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/3b636d8ab09f744a?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 4 ==
Date: Wed, Feb 19 2014 8:47 pm
From: Caulking-Gunn@work.com
On Tue, 18 Feb 2014 09:48:17 +0000 (UTC), Judy Miller
<jmiller@not.gmail.com> wrote:
>It always seems I have the wrong diameter headphone jack when I need one.
>
>Since adapters exist, why do they make headphone jacks different
>diameters anyway?
>
>Is there a functional difference?
Why would anyone want to use a headphone on a computer?
== 2 of 4 ==
Date: Wed, Feb 19 2014 10:15 pm
From: "Michael A. Terrell"
Caulking-Gunn@work.com wrote:
>
> On Tue, 18 Feb 2014 09:48:17 +0000 (UTC), Judy Miller
> <jmiller@not.gmail.com> wrote:
>
> >It always seems I have the wrong diameter headphone jack when I need one.
> >
> >Since adapters exist, why do they make headphone jacks different
> >diameters anyway?
> >
> >Is there a functional difference?
>
> Why would anyone want to use a headphone on a computer?
Why would anyone need a 'caulking gunn' for anything?
Some people are online while other people are sleeping A headset with
a boom mic allows you to use Skype or other functions without making so
much noise.
--
Anyone wanting to run for any political office in the US should have to
have a DD214, and a honorable discharge.
== 3 of 4 ==
Date: Thurs, Feb 20 2014 3:38 am
From: DerbyDad03
<Caulking-Gunn@work.com> wrote:
> On Tue, 18 Feb 2014 09:48:17 +0000 (UTC), Judy Miller
> <jmiller@not.gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> It always seems I have the wrong diameter headphone jack when I need one.
>>
>> Since adapters exist, why do they make headphone jacks different
>> diameters anyway?
>>
>> Is there a functional difference?
>
> Why would anyone want to use a headphone on a computer?
To listen to stuff.
== 4 of 4 ==
Date: Thurs, Feb 20 2014 6:47 am
From: dave
On 02/19/2014 08:47 PM, Caulking-Gunn@work.com wrote:
> On Tue, 18 Feb 2014 09:48:17 +0000 (UTC), Judy Miller
> <jmiller@not.gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> It always seems I have the wrong diameter headphone jack when I need one.
>>
>> Since adapters exist, why do they make headphone jacks different
>> diameters anyway?
>>
>> Is there a functional difference?
>
> Why would anyone want to use a headphone on a computer?
>
To hear the audio on media files?
==============================================================================
TOPIC: Soundcraft Compact 4, small mixer , 2005
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/74e2c87511c7bde3?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Thurs, Feb 20 2014 6:54 am
From: N_Cook
More a case of lack of use, certainly not due to wear , and as I can see
the grease oozing out of the spindle area, presumably compacted grease
spots on the tracks.
2 main rotary stereo pots are bad I don't mind attending to individually
but half the other such 30 or so rotary pots are "scratchy".
I think I'll use my modified electric toothbrush head and methylated
spirits squirted in the convenient access hole in these Alpha pots,
agitating via the toothbrush reciprocating motion , while plenty of
meths inside, in the first instance.
Any other ideas? desoldering a load of stereo rotary pots with plated
through holes and very close SMD active devices is asking for colateral
damage. How to get the grease out or at least redistributed without
removing the pots.
BTW intrusion of graphic designer cobblers?, its impossible for an owner
to remove the DC power connector without pliers or by pulling the lead
at the wrong angle, ie straining the usual failure position, because
recessed into the side cheeks.
== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Thurs, Feb 20 2014 10:53 am
From: dave
On 02/20/2014 06:54 AM, N_Cook wrote:
> More a case of lack of use, certainly not due to wear , and as I can see
> the grease oozing out of the spindle area, presumably compacted grease
> spots on the tracks.
> 2 main rotary stereo pots are bad I don't mind attending to individually
> but half the other such 30 or so rotary pots are "scratchy".
> I think I'll use my modified electric toothbrush head and methylated
> spirits squirted in the convenient access hole in these Alpha pots,
> agitating via the toothbrush reciprocating motion , while plenty of
> meths inside, in the first instance.
> Any other ideas? desoldering a load of stereo rotary pots with plated
> through holes and very close SMD active devices is asking for colateral
> damage. How to get the grease out or at least redistributed without
> removing the pots.
> BTW intrusion of graphic designer cobblers?, its impossible for an owner
> to remove the DC power connector without pliers or by pulling the lead
> at the wrong angle, ie straining the usual failure position, because
> recessed into the side cheeks.
The labor costs more than the thing is worth?
== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Thurs, Feb 20 2014 11:24 am
From: N_Cook
On 20/02/2014 18:53, dave wrote:
> On 02/20/2014 06:54 AM, N_Cook wrote:
>> More a case of lack of use, certainly not due to wear , and as I can see
>> the grease oozing out of the spindle area, presumably compacted grease
>> spots on the tracks.
>> 2 main rotary stereo pots are bad I don't mind attending to individually
>> but half the other such 30 or so rotary pots are "scratchy".
>> I think I'll use my modified electric toothbrush head and methylated
>> spirits squirted in the convenient access hole in these Alpha pots,
>> agitating via the toothbrush reciprocating motion , while plenty of
>> meths inside, in the first instance.
>> Any other ideas? desoldering a load of stereo rotary pots with plated
>> through holes and very close SMD active devices is asking for colateral
>> damage. How to get the grease out or at least redistributed without
>> removing the pots.
>> BTW intrusion of graphic designer cobblers?, its impossible for an owner
>> to remove the DC power connector without pliers or by pulling the lead
>> at the wrong angle, ie straining the usual failure position, because
>> recessed into the side cheeks.
>
> The labor costs more than the thing is worth?
I do wonder how long the pot makers have known about the problem with
the lubricant migrating and the very flimsy wiper metal used in the SMD
era sub16mm pots era. The grase has to only bind a bit and solidify a
bit and the wipers will lift off the track. Ive never seen a worn track
on one of these pots.
==============================================================================
TOPIC: A Brief Introduction to Islam
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/c2d4e34bf9bab000?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Thurs, Feb 20 2014 11:14 am
From: bv4bv4bv4@gmail.com
A Brief Introduction to Islam
A brief introduction to the meaning of Islam, the notion of God in Islam, and His basic message to humanity through the Prophets.
http://www.islamhouse.com/426146/en/en/articles/A_Brief_Introduction_to_Islam
Thank you
==============================================================================
TOPIC: Harman Kardon AVR30, 1993
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/6ff015ea21f997c9?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Thurs, Feb 20 2014 11:30 am
From: N_Cook
An odd fault, no audio out as though in mute mode. The user manual says
if in mute the volume knob LED flashes. What LED, nothing lit, just the
power LED and function LEDs.
The 2 thin wires that loop around the rotating pot motor shaft must have
snagged somewhere and tugged enough to bend up the pcb connector socket
and break a wire somewhere. If no LED load , the amp goes into
protect/mute? the next time the amp is powered up, but caries on as
normal until put in standby.
== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Thurs, Feb 20 2014 1:41 pm
From: jurb6006@gmail.com
My ex-boss used to say "Don't look for elephants whern you might just have fleas". Kinda stupid but makes a point. Don't assume it is some wierdass problem that only me and three otyher techs on the face of the planet could figure ut, like the vertical height for a greyscale problem. (it was related to AKB and a replaced CRT)
Just troubleshoot it normally. It is not an old Fisher in which you don't get multiplex if the light blub burns out.
Just do what you would normally do, the LED may have been out for ten years before the actual fault showed up. If it's a reciever see if it recieves, does it say it gets a signal ? If you put in a signal does it show up on a scope at the volume control ? The tape outputs ? The PRE-OUTs ? (if any) If it's in protect mode, is there offset at the emittter resistors or the output of the STKs or whatever ?
Just do the usual. I have been fooled enough times tha tI now just check out pretty much everything. And while I DO want a statd complaint from the customer, I don't heed it. they are not only supid sometimes, some are even dishonest. Like bring in a TV and say the picture is shrink and you find out the fucking CRT is broken.
Voltages, signal, waveforms. Don't let anything phase you.
==============================================================================
TOPIC: Hickock CRO-5000a
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/b6a1f1fdf9eeca5e?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Thurs, Feb 20 2014 1:52 pm
From: jurb6006@gmail.com
My buddy just picked one up in a deal. I can't seem to find anything on it. It is coming for me to check out and though a print would be nice, I don't even need that. I don't know if the thing is 5 Mhz, 50 Mhz or what. There is one on eBay (I think in the UK) for sale (for $359 !). From the picture it doesn't look like much but you never know. The ad, or one of the google hits indicate that it is solid state at least.
I nothing else it can become a component checker or something, or we can unload it cheap to a student, who might be able to learn something from it a bit easier than a new LCD job. Even an interested kid. I got my first scop when I was about 13 I think. It seemed like a truck in size, it was a Hickock coincidentally and with all that bulk it had a giant three inch scren I think ! If I remember correctly the graticule was glued on, like scotch tape with lines !
The technology was, well, defies words...
anyway, does anyone have any onfo on the CRO-5000a ? If it can be made to work easily I could spec it out, but if there are any problems that require a bunch of effort and/or money I would like to know if it is worth it. Evne a 5 Mhz can be used for some audio work...
Hell, I don't even lnow if it is triggered !
Any info is appreciated.
==============================================================================
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Google Groups: http://groups.google.com/?hl=en
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair?hl=en
sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com
Today's topics:
* Truth brand electrolytic capacitors - 2 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/024736b296c3838f?hl=en
* Sony Fm-Am receiver, Str-D615 - 6 messages, 4 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/603b7da6bc83fd04?hl=en
* Fuse for motor protection? - 3 messages, 3 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/4aa544fb8b4b8aa0?hl=en
* 3.5mm stereo headphone socket that isn't. - 4 messages, 3 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/28320987875a2efc?hl=en
* Why are headphone jacks for computers and handsets different diameters than
cellphones? - 4 messages, 4 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/3b636d8ab09f744a?hl=en
* Soundcraft Compact 4, small mixer , 2005 - 3 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/74e2c87511c7bde3?hl=en
* A Brief Introduction to Islam - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/c2d4e34bf9bab000?hl=en
* Harman Kardon AVR30, 1993 - 2 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/6ff015ea21f997c9?hl=en
* Hickock CRO-5000a - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/b6a1f1fdf9eeca5e?hl=en
==============================================================================
TOPIC: Truth brand electrolytic capacitors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/024736b296c3838f?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Wed, Feb 19 2014 8:09 am
From: jurb6006@gmail.com
Before the CURRENT plague. Those look like what was in Mitsubishi TVs.
Those babies leaked conductive goop all over the board, yet were not electrically leaky themselves. Go figure.
== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Wed, Feb 19 2014 12:56 pm
From: Trevor Wilson
On 18/02/2014 6:13 PM, John Robertson wrote:
> On 02/17/2014 11:53 AM, Trevor Wilson wrote:
>> On 17/02/2014 1:36 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
>>> <http://wtfmoogle.com/?p=3585>
>>> Now, there is something I haven't seen before. Electrolytics that
>>> bulge and leak goo without any applied voltage. Probably useful for
>>> ultra-short product warranties.
>>>
>>
>> **Last year I ordered a couple of hundred caps from my local supplier. I
>> commenced using the caps. Around 10% showed signs of leakage within a
>> short time. All before I installed them into products. I recalled the
>> products they were installed in, and sent the whole lot back to the
>> supplier for a refund. Some of the caps I had installed were showing
>> signs of distress. A hollow act, since the cost of the caps was
>> insignificant compared to the cost of re-repairing the products they
>> were installed in. I have setttled on a new, more reliable supplier.
>>
>
> We tend to only use Panasonic caps from Digi-Key, Mouser, etc. No
> problems with these! The cheap ones only lead to callbacks.
>
> John :-#(#
>
**Yup. That is the approach I've used for the last couple of years.
Panasonic caps = no call-backs. Sourced from Element 14.
--
Trevor Wilson www.rageaudio.com.au
==============================================================================
TOPIC: Sony Fm-Am receiver, Str-D615
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/603b7da6bc83fd04?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 6 ==
Date: Wed, Feb 19 2014 8:12 am
From: jurb6006@gmail.com
On Wednesday, February 19, 2014 4:54:05 AM UTC-5, blhbr...@gmail.com wrote:
> you're stereo probably has a small pece off metal inside on the bord try to tip it upside down and tap on it to see if you here any thing lose if not then you receiver board may be defective but this is only because I've owed alot if them I'm in need of the front price mine simply burnt out
Did you happen to notice the DATE ? This thread is FOURTEEN YEARS OLD !
Would YOU wait 14 years to get a junkass Sony reciever fixed ?
BTW, where is Jerry ? In fact where are all the people who usaed to post here ?
== 2 of 6 ==
Date: Wed, Feb 19 2014 8:38 am
From: Michael Black
On Wed, 19 Feb 2014, jurb6006@gmail.com wrote:
> On Wednesday, February 19, 2014 4:54:05 AM UTC-5, blhbr...@gmail.com wrote:
>> you're stereo probably has a small pece off metal inside on the bord
>> try to tip it upside down and tap on it to see if you here any thing
>> lose if not then you receiver board may be defective but this is only
>> because I've owed alot if them I'm in need of the front price mine
>> simply burnt out
>
> Did you happen to notice the DATE ? This thread is FOURTEEN YEARS OLD !
>
The guy didn't even quote what he was replying to, and didn't even format
things properly, so it looked like a first post in a thread rather than a
reply to one. Look inside, and it barely was readable.
>
> Would YOU wait 14 years to get a junkass Sony reciever fixed ?
>
But he didnt' really reply to be helfpul, he replied because he's looking
for a junker. I doubt he realized the message was old, but I suspect
wishful thinking is why he replied, hoping to get that front panel he
needs (or I think that's what he's asking).
It boggles my mind that people think there's value in replying to old
messages, when they aren't even in the right place. If they want
something, there are venues for buying and selling, and which see more
traffic than we get here. There's that new thing, ebay, that seems to
be getting a lot of attention, and is more likely to produce the needed
scrap unit (or just the front panel) than posting here.
> BTW, where is Jerry ? In fact where are all the people who usaed to post
> here ?
>
Some just changed their lives I think. Later this year it's 20 years
since I first saw this newsgroup, and the only other one in the hierarcy
was sci.electronics. Some of the regulars disappeared long enough ago that
I just assume their lives changed and they had less time for the
newsgroup. I've always assumed Sam, who was so big here at one
point, had less time to spend here. People who disappeared later, it
might be that they were lured by other forums.
Michael
== 3 of 6 ==
Date: Wed, Feb 19 2014 11:12 am
From: Allodoxaphobia
On Wed, 19 Feb 2014 08:12:21 -0800 (PST), jurb6006@gmail.com wrote:
> On Wednesday, February 19, 2014 4:54:05 AM UTC-5, blhbr...@gmail.com wrote:
>> you're stereo probably has a small pece off metal inside on the bord try to tip it upside down and tap on it to see if you here any thing lose if not then you receiver board may be defective but this is only because I've owed alot if them I'm in need of the front price mine simply burnt out
>
> Did you happen to notice the DATE ? This thread is FOURTEEN YEARS OLD !
heh.. The OP was just another Google Grooper:
Message-ID: <c8eec3dc-b626-4b16-90a9-5efb7a0f0fae@googlegroups.com>
... with to-be-expected grammar and spelling issuse.
== 4 of 6 ==
Date: Wed, Feb 19 2014 11:34 am
From: jurb6006@gmail.com
Actually I used to get here from AOL. Right now I am using google. Sucks, but it works. Anyway, since I know how google sucks, err works, what I don't understand is how he is getting so far back.
Google presents the threads newest first, 30 at a time. To get 14 years back, this guy must have sat there all day scrolling down until it says "Loading more topics" about 100 times.
== 5 of 6 ==
Date: Wed, Feb 19 2014 12:16 pm
From: Michael Black
On Wed, 19 Feb 2014, jurb6006@gmail.com wrote:
> Actually I used to get here from AOL. Right now I am using google.
> Sucks, but it works. Anyway, since I know how google sucks, err works,
> what I don't understand is how he is getting so far back.
>
> Google presents the threads newest first, 30 at a time. To get 14 years
> back, this guy must have sat there all day scrolling down until it says
> "Loading more topics" about 100 times.
>
The search engine may work sometimes still.
IN this case, he was looking for a front panel, so he likely did a search,
and then didnt' pay attention to the date (though why he didn't try email
is a wonder, except google garbles so much that I suspect the email
address isn't readily available).
But I just saw one in another newsgroup to a post a four years old, and
it's some "useful help" to the original poster. I can't figure out how
someone comes upon that, and then has something of value to add. I can
see someone looking for a solution and then asking further in an old
thread (not that I think it's a valid way to do things), but to add a
suggestion for help?
Some of those, the problem has long been solved, since the software has
changed. Then it gets silly as someone else replies to the original post
now that it's been bumped up at google, and tells the original poster "get
newer software" as if in 1994 there was newer software.
Or, the late repliers never bother to read the whole thread, so they never
see that ample suggestions were given way back then to possible solutions.
Michael
== 6 of 6 ==
Date: Thurs, Feb 20 2014 6:00 am
From: Leif Neland
Den 19-02-2014, skrev Michael Black:
> But I just saw one in another newsgroup to a post a four years old, and it's
> some "useful help" to the original poster. I can't figure out how someone
> comes upon that, and then has something of value to add. I can see someone
> looking for a solution and then asking further in an old thread (not that I
> think it's a valid way to do things), but to add a suggestion for help?
>
I've done that sometimes.
I was looking for an answer, but only found unanswered questions.
Then I found the answer off-line, or by myself, and went back and added
my answer, so somebody else could use it.
And I felt good afterwards :-)
But I wish google would ask "Are you really sure you want to answer
such an old message?"
I've also asked about how to repair my garden scredder (sp?), and two
years later I got a call if I still got it, because he needed it for
spare parts. I did have it, and got some money for it.
Leif
--
Husk kørelys bagpå, hvis din bilfabrikant har taget den idiotiske
beslutning at undlade det.
==============================================================================
TOPIC: Fuse for motor protection?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/4aa544fb8b4b8aa0?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Wed, Feb 19 2014 9:27 am
From: Jon Elson
Mike Cook wrote:
>> However I reckon you would be better off with thermal protection if the
>> motor does not have it.
>
> How does thermal protection work? I understand the safety mechanism, but
> if a motor is heating up under load, isn't it drawing over-max current?
> Shouldn't the (carefully-chosen value) fuse blow?
>
> I need to learn about this, I know...
The phase angle of induction motors changes with varying load.
The current draw only changes a little with loads from zero
to the motor's rating. So, if the motor is rated
at 1/2 Hp, 208 V, the running current at rated load
will be something just over 2 A.
I = (745 W * 1/2 * 1.2 (efficiency))/208
At idle, the current may be 1.5 - 1.7 A with a very low power
factor (phase angle near 90 degrees lagging). At full load,
the current will be about 2.1 A with a phase angle of maybe
5 - 10 degrees. This, the motor draws more REAL POWER at
full load, but the current doesn't change much throughout the
range the motor is rated for. This is why external fusing
for motors is to protect the building wiring from fire, it
does not protect the motor from minor overload or overheating.
Internal thermal protectors actually measure the temperature
INSIDE the motor, and thus are a lot more effective.
Jon
== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Wed, Feb 19 2014 10:54 am
From: "Ian Field"
"Mike Cook" <mcham@NOTyahoo.com> wrote in message
news:0001HW.CF299E2407BCD35AB01029BF@news.eternal-september.org...
>> However I reckon you would be better off with thermal protection if the
>> motor does not have it.
>
> How does thermal protection work? I understand the safety mechanism, but
> if a
> motor is heating up under load, isn't it drawing over-max current?
> Shouldn't
> the (carefully-chosen value) fuse blow?
There's usually a fair bit of heaving and grunting as a motor starts
spinning - especially if it starts under load.
Even a slow-blow fuse that can handle the second or two of what is pretty
much stall-current, will carry enough steady running current to let the
magic smoke out if a fault/overload develops.
== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Thurs, Feb 20 2014 5:17 am
From: "Wild_Bill"
A fuse is not a replacement for a properly-sized motor OLP overload
protection device.
A fuse will protect wiring, as previously stated.. but you'll just keep
asking the question until you get the answer you want, right?
Overload protectors and TP thermal protection devices aren't the same, and
are intended for completely different situations.
The OLP will react rapidly to protect a motor in the event of a sudden
machine jam or other fault.
The application was previously stated to be a bandsaw which previously had a
smaller motor on it.
Generally, fuses aren't motor protection devices, and won't replace a proper
OLP.
--
Cheers,
WB
.............
"Mike Cook" <mcham@NOTyahoo.com> wrote in message
news:0001HW.CF26EAE3071AD086B01029BF@news.eternal-september.org...
>A small 1/2 hp induction motor is turned on and off with a motor-rated
>toggle
> switch connected to a 208V 20A branch circuit. No other protection
> installed.
>
>
> Obviously not enough protection so I'm planning to add a slow-blow 9A fuse
> (rating of the motor) to keep it safe.
>
> Any objections?
>
==============================================================================
TOPIC: 3.5mm stereo headphone socket that isn't.
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/28320987875a2efc?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 4 ==
Date: Wed, Feb 19 2014 12:28 pm
From: etpm@whidbey.com
On Wed, 19 Feb 2014 15:06:14 -0000, "Gareth Magennis"
<sound.service@btconnect.com> wrote:
>
>"dave" <ricketzz@earthlink.net> wrote in message
>news:ZNCdnS9txdPUWJnOnZ2dnUVZ_vudnZ2d@earthlink.com...
>> On 02/19/2014 02:37 AM, Gareth Magennis wrote:
>>> I don't get this at all.
>>>
>>> I need a 3.5mm switched stereo headphone socket to replace a broken
>>> surface
>>> mount PCB socket.
>>>
>>> So I bought this, the only one that Farnell sell.
>>> http://www.schurter.ch/var/schurter/storage/ilcatalogue/files/document/datasheet/en/pdf/typ_4802.2300.pdf
>>>
>>> http://uk.farnell.com/schurter/4802-2300/socket-3-5mm-jack-panel-3pole/dp/143336
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Only it is the wrong dimensions to fit a standard 3.5mm headphone jack.
>>> The
>>> jack plug will not go far enough into the socket, as the plug's collar
>>> meets
>>> the threaded part of the socket too early.
>>>
>>> Now I've measured a couple of headphone plugs, one on my Sony headphones,
>>> and from the collar to the end of the centre pin is 14mm. From the
>>> technical drawing above, it is clear that there is no way this can
>>> actually
>>> fit.
>>>
>>> In this technical drawing is another drawing of a 3.5mm plug that
>>> presumably
>>> mates with this socket, because it does not have the collar you find on
>>> headphone jack plugs.
>>>
>>>
>>> So are there 2 different types of 3.5mm plug/socket standards?
>>>
>>>
>>> Bizarre.
>>>
>>>
>>
>> They come in 2, 3 or 4 conductor versions. They are all the same length in
>> my shop.
>
>
>
>This is a typical 3.5mm plug, length of shaft = 14.25mm
>http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/1680205.pdf
>
>This is the Schurter one, length of shaft = 18.6mm.
>http://www.schurter.ch/var/schurter/storage/ilcatalogue/files/document/datasheet/en/pdf/typ_4802.1300.pdf
>
>
>They are not compatible.
>
>Gareth.
>
Not any help but did anybody notice that the Schurter is longer?
Eric
---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.
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== 2 of 4 ==
Date: Wed, Feb 19 2014 5:17 pm
From: Rheilly Phoull
On 20/02/14 04:28, etpm@whidbey.com wrote:
> On Wed, 19 Feb 2014 15:06:14 -0000, "Gareth Magennis"
> <sound.service@btconnect.com> wrote:
>
>>
>> "dave" <ricketzz@earthlink.net> wrote in message
>> news:ZNCdnS9txdPUWJnOnZ2dnUVZ_vudnZ2d@earthlink.com...
>>> On 02/19/2014 02:37 AM, Gareth Magennis wrote:
>>>> I don't get this at all.
>>>>
>>>> I need a 3.5mm switched stereo headphone socket to replace a broken
>>>> surface
>>>> mount PCB socket.
>>>>
>>>> So I bought this, the only one that Farnell sell.
>>>> http://www.schurter.ch/var/schurter/storage/ilcatalogue/files/document/datasheet/en/pdf/typ_4802.2300.pdf
>>>>
>>>> http://uk.farnell.com/schurter/4802-2300/socket-3-5mm-jack-panel-3pole/dp/143336
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Only it is the wrong dimensions to fit a standard 3.5mm headphone jack.
>>>> The
>>>> jack plug will not go far enough into the socket, as the plug's collar
>>>> meets
>>>> the threaded part of the socket too early.
>>>>
>>>> Now I've measured a couple of headphone plugs, one on my Sony headphones,
>>>> and from the collar to the end of the centre pin is 14mm. From the
>>>> technical drawing above, it is clear that there is no way this can
>>>> actually
>>>> fit.
>>>>
>>>> In this technical drawing is another drawing of a 3.5mm plug that
>>>> presumably
>>>> mates with this socket, because it does not have the collar you find on
>>>> headphone jack plugs.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> So are there 2 different types of 3.5mm plug/socket standards?
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Bizarre.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>> They come in 2, 3 or 4 conductor versions. They are all the same length in
>>> my shop.
>>
>>
>>
>> This is a typical 3.5mm plug, length of shaft = 14.25mm
>> http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/1680205.pdf
>>
>>
>> http://www.schurter.ch/var/schurter/storage/ilcatalogue/files/document/datasheet/en/pdf/typ_4802.1300.pdf
>>
>>
>> They are not compatible.
>>
>> Gareth.
>>
> Not any help but did anybody notice that the Schurter is longer?
> Eric
>
> ---
> This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.
> http://www.avast.com
>
Which part of the message saying "The Schurter is 18mm long" did you not
understand ??
== 3 of 4 ==
Date: Thurs, Feb 20 2014 9:16 am
From: etpm@whidbey.com
On Thu, 20 Feb 2014 09:17:18 +0800, Rheilly Phoull
<rheilly@bigslong.com> wrote:
>On 20/02/14 04:28, etpm@whidbey.com wrote:
>> On Wed, 19 Feb 2014 15:06:14 -0000, "Gareth Magennis"
>> <sound.service@btconnect.com> wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> "dave" <ricketzz@earthlink.net> wrote in message
>>> news:ZNCdnS9txdPUWJnOnZ2dnUVZ_vudnZ2d@earthlink.com...
>>>> On 02/19/2014 02:37 AM, Gareth Magennis wrote:
>>>>> I don't get this at all.
>>>>>
>>>>> I need a 3.5mm switched stereo headphone socket to replace a broken
>>>>> surface
>>>>> mount PCB socket.
>>>>>
>>>>> So I bought this, the only one that Farnell sell.
>>>>> http://www.schurter.ch/var/schurter/storage/ilcatalogue/files/document/datasheet/en/pdf/typ_4802.2300.pdf
>>>>>
>>>>> http://uk.farnell.com/schurter/4802-2300/socket-3-5mm-jack-panel-3pole/dp/143336
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Only it is the wrong dimensions to fit a standard 3.5mm headphone jack.
>>>>> The
>>>>> jack plug will not go far enough into the socket, as the plug's collar
>>>>> meets
>>>>> the threaded part of the socket too early.
>>>>>
>>>>> Now I've measured a couple of headphone plugs, one on my Sony headphones,
>>>>> and from the collar to the end of the centre pin is 14mm. From the
>>>>> technical drawing above, it is clear that there is no way this can
>>>>> actually
>>>>> fit.
>>>>>
>>>>> In this technical drawing is another drawing of a 3.5mm plug that
>>>>> presumably
>>>>> mates with this socket, because it does not have the collar you find on
>>>>> headphone jack plugs.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> So are there 2 different types of 3.5mm plug/socket standards?
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Bizarre.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>> They come in 2, 3 or 4 conductor versions. They are all the same length in
>>>> my shop.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> This is a typical 3.5mm plug, length of shaft = 14.25mm
>>> http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/1680205.pdf
>>>
>>>
>>> http://www.schurter.ch/var/schurter/storage/ilcatalogue/files/document/datasheet/en/pdf/typ_4802.1300.pdf
>>>
>>>
>>> They are not compatible.
>>>
>>> Gareth.
>>>
>> Not any help but did anybody notice that the Schurter is longer?
>> Eric
>>
>> ---
>> This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.
>> http://www.avast.com
>>
>Which part of the message saying "The Schurter is 18mm long" did you not
>understand ??
I did understand the message. I just noticed that the name "Schurter
is pretty close to the word "shorter" and I thought it was funny that
the shorter one was longer. Sheesh!
Etic
---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.
http://www.avast.com
== 4 of 4 ==
Date: Thurs, Feb 20 2014 10:54 am
From: dave
On 02/20/2014 09:16 AM, etpm@whidbey.com wrote:
> On Thu, 20 Feb 2014 09:17:18 +0800, Rheilly Phoull
> <rheilly@bigslong.com> wrote:
>
>
>>>> They are not compatible.
>>>>
>>>> Gareth.
>>>>
>>> Not any help but did anybody notice that the Schurter is longer?
>>> Eric
>>>
>>> ---
>>> This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.
>>> http://www.avast.com
>>>
>> Which part of the message saying "The Schurter is 18mm long" did you not
>> understand ??
> I did understand the message. I just noticed that the name "Schurter
> is pretty close to the word "shorter" and I thought it was funny that
> the shorter one was longer. Sheesh!
> Etic
>
> ---
> This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.
> http://www.avast.com
>
Some people have no sense of Yuma.
==============================================================================
TOPIC: Why are headphone jacks for computers and handsets different diameters
than cellphones?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/3b636d8ab09f744a?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 4 ==
Date: Wed, Feb 19 2014 8:47 pm
From: Caulking-Gunn@work.com
On Tue, 18 Feb 2014 09:48:17 +0000 (UTC), Judy Miller
<jmiller@not.gmail.com> wrote:
>It always seems I have the wrong diameter headphone jack when I need one.
>
>Since adapters exist, why do they make headphone jacks different
>diameters anyway?
>
>Is there a functional difference?
Why would anyone want to use a headphone on a computer?
== 2 of 4 ==
Date: Wed, Feb 19 2014 10:15 pm
From: "Michael A. Terrell"
Caulking-Gunn@work.com wrote:
>
> On Tue, 18 Feb 2014 09:48:17 +0000 (UTC), Judy Miller
> <jmiller@not.gmail.com> wrote:
>
> >It always seems I have the wrong diameter headphone jack when I need one.
> >
> >Since adapters exist, why do they make headphone jacks different
> >diameters anyway?
> >
> >Is there a functional difference?
>
> Why would anyone want to use a headphone on a computer?
Why would anyone need a 'caulking gunn' for anything?
Some people are online while other people are sleeping A headset with
a boom mic allows you to use Skype or other functions without making so
much noise.
--
Anyone wanting to run for any political office in the US should have to
have a DD214, and a honorable discharge.
== 3 of 4 ==
Date: Thurs, Feb 20 2014 3:38 am
From: DerbyDad03
<Caulking-Gunn@work.com> wrote:
> On Tue, 18 Feb 2014 09:48:17 +0000 (UTC), Judy Miller
> <jmiller@not.gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> It always seems I have the wrong diameter headphone jack when I need one.
>>
>> Since adapters exist, why do they make headphone jacks different
>> diameters anyway?
>>
>> Is there a functional difference?
>
> Why would anyone want to use a headphone on a computer?
To listen to stuff.
== 4 of 4 ==
Date: Thurs, Feb 20 2014 6:47 am
From: dave
On 02/19/2014 08:47 PM, Caulking-Gunn@work.com wrote:
> On Tue, 18 Feb 2014 09:48:17 +0000 (UTC), Judy Miller
> <jmiller@not.gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> It always seems I have the wrong diameter headphone jack when I need one.
>>
>> Since adapters exist, why do they make headphone jacks different
>> diameters anyway?
>>
>> Is there a functional difference?
>
> Why would anyone want to use a headphone on a computer?
>
To hear the audio on media files?
==============================================================================
TOPIC: Soundcraft Compact 4, small mixer , 2005
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/74e2c87511c7bde3?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Thurs, Feb 20 2014 6:54 am
From: N_Cook
More a case of lack of use, certainly not due to wear , and as I can see
the grease oozing out of the spindle area, presumably compacted grease
spots on the tracks.
2 main rotary stereo pots are bad I don't mind attending to individually
but half the other such 30 or so rotary pots are "scratchy".
I think I'll use my modified electric toothbrush head and methylated
spirits squirted in the convenient access hole in these Alpha pots,
agitating via the toothbrush reciprocating motion , while plenty of
meths inside, in the first instance.
Any other ideas? desoldering a load of stereo rotary pots with plated
through holes and very close SMD active devices is asking for colateral
damage. How to get the grease out or at least redistributed without
removing the pots.
BTW intrusion of graphic designer cobblers?, its impossible for an owner
to remove the DC power connector without pliers or by pulling the lead
at the wrong angle, ie straining the usual failure position, because
recessed into the side cheeks.
== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Thurs, Feb 20 2014 10:53 am
From: dave
On 02/20/2014 06:54 AM, N_Cook wrote:
> More a case of lack of use, certainly not due to wear , and as I can see
> the grease oozing out of the spindle area, presumably compacted grease
> spots on the tracks.
> 2 main rotary stereo pots are bad I don't mind attending to individually
> but half the other such 30 or so rotary pots are "scratchy".
> I think I'll use my modified electric toothbrush head and methylated
> spirits squirted in the convenient access hole in these Alpha pots,
> agitating via the toothbrush reciprocating motion , while plenty of
> meths inside, in the first instance.
> Any other ideas? desoldering a load of stereo rotary pots with plated
> through holes and very close SMD active devices is asking for colateral
> damage. How to get the grease out or at least redistributed without
> removing the pots.
> BTW intrusion of graphic designer cobblers?, its impossible for an owner
> to remove the DC power connector without pliers or by pulling the lead
> at the wrong angle, ie straining the usual failure position, because
> recessed into the side cheeks.
The labor costs more than the thing is worth?
== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Thurs, Feb 20 2014 11:24 am
From: N_Cook
On 20/02/2014 18:53, dave wrote:
> On 02/20/2014 06:54 AM, N_Cook wrote:
>> More a case of lack of use, certainly not due to wear , and as I can see
>> the grease oozing out of the spindle area, presumably compacted grease
>> spots on the tracks.
>> 2 main rotary stereo pots are bad I don't mind attending to individually
>> but half the other such 30 or so rotary pots are "scratchy".
>> I think I'll use my modified electric toothbrush head and methylated
>> spirits squirted in the convenient access hole in these Alpha pots,
>> agitating via the toothbrush reciprocating motion , while plenty of
>> meths inside, in the first instance.
>> Any other ideas? desoldering a load of stereo rotary pots with plated
>> through holes and very close SMD active devices is asking for colateral
>> damage. How to get the grease out or at least redistributed without
>> removing the pots.
>> BTW intrusion of graphic designer cobblers?, its impossible for an owner
>> to remove the DC power connector without pliers or by pulling the lead
>> at the wrong angle, ie straining the usual failure position, because
>> recessed into the side cheeks.
>
> The labor costs more than the thing is worth?
I do wonder how long the pot makers have known about the problem with
the lubricant migrating and the very flimsy wiper metal used in the SMD
era sub16mm pots era. The grase has to only bind a bit and solidify a
bit and the wipers will lift off the track. Ive never seen a worn track
on one of these pots.
==============================================================================
TOPIC: A Brief Introduction to Islam
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/c2d4e34bf9bab000?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Thurs, Feb 20 2014 11:14 am
From: bv4bv4bv4@gmail.com
A Brief Introduction to Islam
A brief introduction to the meaning of Islam, the notion of God in Islam, and His basic message to humanity through the Prophets.
http://www.islamhouse.com/426146/en/en/articles/A_Brief_Introduction_to_Islam
Thank you
==============================================================================
TOPIC: Harman Kardon AVR30, 1993
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/6ff015ea21f997c9?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Thurs, Feb 20 2014 11:30 am
From: N_Cook
An odd fault, no audio out as though in mute mode. The user manual says
if in mute the volume knob LED flashes. What LED, nothing lit, just the
power LED and function LEDs.
The 2 thin wires that loop around the rotating pot motor shaft must have
snagged somewhere and tugged enough to bend up the pcb connector socket
and break a wire somewhere. If no LED load , the amp goes into
protect/mute? the next time the amp is powered up, but caries on as
normal until put in standby.
== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Thurs, Feb 20 2014 1:41 pm
From: jurb6006@gmail.com
My ex-boss used to say "Don't look for elephants whern you might just have fleas". Kinda stupid but makes a point. Don't assume it is some wierdass problem that only me and three otyher techs on the face of the planet could figure ut, like the vertical height for a greyscale problem. (it was related to AKB and a replaced CRT)
Just troubleshoot it normally. It is not an old Fisher in which you don't get multiplex if the light blub burns out.
Just do what you would normally do, the LED may have been out for ten years before the actual fault showed up. If it's a reciever see if it recieves, does it say it gets a signal ? If you put in a signal does it show up on a scope at the volume control ? The tape outputs ? The PRE-OUTs ? (if any) If it's in protect mode, is there offset at the emittter resistors or the output of the STKs or whatever ?
Just do the usual. I have been fooled enough times tha tI now just check out pretty much everything. And while I DO want a statd complaint from the customer, I don't heed it. they are not only supid sometimes, some are even dishonest. Like bring in a TV and say the picture is shrink and you find out the fucking CRT is broken.
Voltages, signal, waveforms. Don't let anything phase you.
==============================================================================
TOPIC: Hickock CRO-5000a
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/b6a1f1fdf9eeca5e?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Thurs, Feb 20 2014 1:52 pm
From: jurb6006@gmail.com
My buddy just picked one up in a deal. I can't seem to find anything on it. It is coming for me to check out and though a print would be nice, I don't even need that. I don't know if the thing is 5 Mhz, 50 Mhz or what. There is one on eBay (I think in the UK) for sale (for $359 !). From the picture it doesn't look like much but you never know. The ad, or one of the google hits indicate that it is solid state at least.
I nothing else it can become a component checker or something, or we can unload it cheap to a student, who might be able to learn something from it a bit easier than a new LCD job. Even an interested kid. I got my first scop when I was about 13 I think. It seemed like a truck in size, it was a Hickock coincidentally and with all that bulk it had a giant three inch scren I think ! If I remember correctly the graticule was glued on, like scotch tape with lines !
The technology was, well, defies words...
anyway, does anyone have any onfo on the CRO-5000a ? If it can be made to work easily I could spec it out, but if there are any problems that require a bunch of effort and/or money I would like to know if it is worth it. Evne a 5 Mhz can be used for some audio work...
Hell, I don't even lnow if it is triggered !
Any info is appreciated.
==============================================================================
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