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| John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Sep 29 09:54AM -0700 On 09/28/2014, 2:18 PM, Danny D. wrote: > We don't know how much the bridge & treehouse will weigh, but if it's > close to or greater than 28,000 pounds, then we have a problem. > How much do you think a treehouse will weigh? Have you allowed for a windstorm where the trees may be moving in opposite directions to each other? Temperature affects the length of the wire rope, have you allowed for maximum and minimum temperatures? You want some sort of shock absorption built in too. Old antennas used porcelain blocks for joining cables, the porcelain would shatter under unexpected loads giving the cables a chunk of extra slack to avoid their collapse by stretching beyond limits. May I suggest you find an engineer to look over your design? I'm not one, but can think of a few ways for this to go wrong already including the clamps failing etc. Suspension bridges are close to what you are building - read up on the design criteria for these. Seat of the pants design may give you another Tacoma bridge... John :-#)# PS, it looks like a lot of fun though! |
| "Danny D." <dannydiamico@gmail.com>: Sep 29 07:25PM John Robertson wrote, on Mon, 29 Sep 2014 09:54:57 -0700: > Have you allowed for a windstorm where the trees may be moving in > opposite directions to each other? > Have you allowed for maximum and minimum temperatures? Only that each cable supports 14,000 pounds! :) > You want some sort of shock absorption built in too. Hmmmmmm.... The cables don't "give" a little when you walk on the bridge that would be hanging below it? > May I suggest you find an engineer to look over your design? The neighbors are all owners of companies and people with graduate degrees, so, they *are* engineers (of all types). The one having the most fun with the design is the retired carrier fighter pilot. :) > Suspension bridges are close to what you are building Yes. I'm told the catenary will turn into a parabola once we hang the bridge off of it. Since the bridge starts uphill about 15 feet above the trail, it will be fun to just step onto the bridge, at the level of the trail, and then walk "downhill" level but going higher and higher above the steeply sloping ground, to get to the two smaller redwoods in the middle of the span. At that point, we will be in the "treehouse" which will have a deck and WiFi and a great open view of the mountains. Then, if we want, we can walk further to the *big* redwood, which will have sleeping quarters (hammocks and cargo nets) for the nights we'll spend there. It should be fun, once done, and I'll try to keep you guys informed; but I personally am not designing or building it; I'm just the free help (we all have Spanish nicknames when we do free labor. I'm "Rodruigo", and my wife's nom-de-labor is "Marisol", for example). I keep threatening that I'm gonna call OSHA on them if I fall or if they don't provide cold soda (the free soda has been warm, to date). |
| "Danny D." <dannydiamico@gmail.com>: Sep 29 09:41PM Oren wrote, on Sun, 28 Sep 2014 10:31:43 -0700: > Just curious. Is there a torque spec for those clamps? Or ... I had forwarded this thread to the owner of the treehouse in the redwoods, who replied with the following ... ----------- People worry too much. I simply design for 10 times the expected load, and pay the premium. Trying to finely engineer the solution where torque and special fasteners are important is a way to save money, and I'd rather spend the money and not waste my time. I've never seen a malleable cable clamp. Drop forged ones are cheap, and I use more than normal anyway, not because I think they are needed, but because they help keep the cable from slipping out of place on the wood block spacers. The reason for keeping the U-bolt on the dead end of the cable is because the saddle has a lot more surface area, and thus does not reduce the strength of the cable as much as the U-bolt does. But they make dual-saddle cable clamps, for those who don't use the over-engineering approach I do. Each cable can support 7 tons, so the total weight of treehouse and occupants can be 14 tons. (Although there will be other supports besides the cable -- one end will rest on the ground, and another end will be anchored to the tree, and there may be other support cables used just to make installation and leveling easier.) If half of the weight is treehouse and the other half is people, we have 7 tons of treehouse possible (although the actual treehouse will probably weigh less than 1.4 tons fully furnished), and 7 tons of people (70 people, if they are all 200 pounds). I doubt we will ever have 70 people in the treehouse -- they'd be shoulder-to-shoulder. |
| Oren <Oren@127.0.0.1>: Sep 29 03:20PM -0700 On Mon, 29 Sep 2014 21:41:56 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D." >possible (although the actual treehouse will probably weigh less than 1.4 tons fully furnished), >and 7 tons of people (70 people, if they are all 200 pounds). I doubt we will ever have 70 people >in the treehouse -- they'd be shoulder-to-shoulder. My point was, if the clamps call for a torque spec, and we now understand they do - why not follow the details made by the manufacturers? I'd just feel comfortable doing so. Your friend can do as he pleases. I get the point of over building something. I've done hear for a patio cover on my house. Pick your poison :) |
| Oren <Oren@127.0.0.1>: Sep 29 04:02PM -0700 On Mon, 29 Sep 2014 19:25:42 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D." >wife's nom-de-labor is "Marisol", for example). >I keep threatening that I'm gonna call OSHA on them if I fall or if they >don't provide cold soda (the free soda has been warm, to date). It's an insult to call a Mexican a Spaniard! -- "..,what is good is the front end if you don't have the back end"-- Kimberly Guilfoyle |
| "Danny D." <dannydiamico@gmail.com>: Sep 29 11:15PM Oren wrote, on Mon, 29 Sep 2014 16:02:48 -0700: > It's an insult to call a Mexican a Spaniard! I guess it's like calling an Asian an Oriental? Who is insulted when I equate Mexico with Spain anyway? The Mexicans? Or the Spaniards? (I don't know these things.) |
| "Danny D." <dannydiamico@gmail.com>: Sep 29 11:20PM Oren wrote, on Mon, 29 Sep 2014 15:20:20 -0700: > Your friend can do as he pleases. > I get the point of over building something. The good news is that, if the whole thing collapses, *he* gets sued, not me! :) |
| Oren <Oren@127.0.0.1>: Sep 29 04:25PM -0700 On Mon, 29 Sep 2014 23:15:51 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D." >Oren wrote, on Mon, 29 Sep 2014 16:02:48 -0700: >> It's an insult to call a Mexican a Spaniard! >I guess it's like calling an Asian an Oriental? Crazy Uncle Joe Biden? >Who is insulted when I equate Mexico with Spain anyway? >The Mexicans? Or the Spaniards? >(I don't know these things.) The Mexicans are offended. Ask one that knows some history or lack of. |
| Oren <Oren@127.0.0.1>: Sep 29 04:29PM -0700 On Mon, 29 Sep 2014 23:20:40 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D." >> I get the point of over building something. >The good news is that, if the whole thing collapses, *he* gets sued, not >me! :) But you are one of the conspirators in negligence, unwittingly. Neither can sue the clamp maker. (G) |
| Grant Edwards <invalid@invalid.invalid>: Sep 29 11:38PM > Oren wrote, on Mon, 29 Sep 2014 16:02:48 -0700: >> It's an insult to call a Mexican a Spaniard! > I guess it's like calling an Asian an Oriental? No, that's pretty much correct (if rather dated). "Oriental" literally means somebody from "the East". Asia is usually defined as "East of the Urals". Both are somewhat vague terms with meanings that have changed over the centuries, but Wikipedia says the're pretty much the equivalent: The Orient means the East. It is a traditional designation for anything that belongs to the Eastern world or the Middle East (aka Near East) or the Far East, in relation to Europe. In English, it is largely a metonym for, and coterminous with, the Continent of Asia. Calling a Mexican a Spaniard is like calling somebody from the US "English" or "British". Rather than being insulted, I think people are just going to be puzzled over where you've been for the last 250 years. > Who is insulted when I equate Mexico with Spain anyway? > The Mexicans? Or the Spaniards? Either, both, maybe neither (it probably depends on the crowd). Regardless of whether it's insulting, it's incorrect. -- Grant |
| etpm@whidbey.com: Sep 29 04:42PM -0700 On Mon, 29 Sep 2014 21:41:56 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D." >possible (although the actual treehouse will probably weigh less than 1.4 tons fully furnished), >and 7 tons of people (70 people, if they are all 200 pounds). I doubt we will ever have 70 people >in the treehouse -- they'd be shoulder-to-shoulder. I hear that about over engineering stuff. When I was getting ready to pour the floor for my shop I calculated the concrete thickness for the various machines and then though about what happens if I move a machine and then what happens if I buy a heavier machine or one with a smaller footprint and so on. Then I realized how pointless this was in my situation, So I had the concrete poured to 7 inch minimum thickness, had fiber put in the concrete, and I put rebar and wire mesh in place before the pour. It's a good thing too because I later bought a lathe that covers 10 square feet with the base and sits on 4 9 square inch pads and weighs 8000 lbs. Eric |
| Oren <Oren@127.0.0.1>: Sep 29 05:15PM -0700 On Mon, 29 Sep 2014 23:38:14 +0000 (UTC), Grant Edwards >"English" or "British". Rather than being insulted, I think people >are just going to be puzzled over where you've been for the last 250 >years. Anything wrong with calling a 1980 Mariel Cuban prisoner a "Beaner"? They love black beans and rice. They didn't seem to be offended. -- Somtimes you just have a bad day at the dungeon |
| "G. Ross" <gwr95@comwest.net>: Sep 29 08:38PM -0400 Danny D. wrote: 8>< Snip > At that point, we will be in the "treehouse" which will have a deck and > WiFi and a great open view of the mountains. 8>< Snip You keep talking about WiFi. More important is a refrig for the beer. Why would anyone want WiFi in a treehouse. I would think this would be a place to escape all that stuff. GW Ross 1st Law of Thermodynamics: Go to class!! |
| "Danny D." <dannydiamico@gmail.com>: Sep 30 12:41AM G. Ross wrote, on Mon, 29 Sep 2014 20:38:51 -0400: > You keep talking about WiFi. More important is a refrig for the beer. > Why would anyone want WiFi in a treehouse. I would think this would be > a place to escape all that stuff. Good point, but, this *is* the Silicon Valley environ ... |
| Oren <Oren@127.0.0.1>: Sep 29 05:49PM -0700 On Mon, 29 Sep 2014 20:38:51 -0400, "G. Ross" <gwr95@comwest.net> wrote: >You keep talking about WiFi. More important is a refrig for the >beer. Why would anyone want WiFi in a treehouse. I would think this >would be a place to escape all that stuff. The WIFI is how one orders more beer delivery. Can I help you further? |
| "Lew Hodgett" <sails.man1@verizon.net>: Sep 29 06:29PM -0700 "Danny D." wrote: > Only that each cable supports 14,000 pounds! ---------------------------------------------- In days of yore I worked as a design engineer for heavy duty steel mill and foundry equipment, but that was then and this is now. For designs involving steel cable and human safety, the basic safety factor applied was 5. IOW, 14,000/5 = 2,800 pounds as the basic design limit. Dynamic loading would apply another 50% derate. IOW, 2,800*50% = 1,400 pounds for dynamic loads. Based on the posts I have seen, your group needs some serious help before people get hurt or worse. Lew Hodgett, PE Retired |
| Stormin Mormon <cayoung61@hotmail.com>: Sep 29 09:31PM -0400 On 9/29/2014 7:15 PM, Danny D. wrote: > Who is insulted when I equate Mexico with Spain anyway? > The Mexicans? Or the Spaniards? > (I don't know these things.) I think everyone's offended, now days. And you hurt my feelings by writing that. . Christopher A. Young Learn about Jesus www.lds.org . |
| Stormin Mormon <cayoung61@hotmail.com>: Sep 29 09:32PM -0400 On 9/29/2014 7:20 PM, Danny D. wrote: > The good news is that, if the whole thing collapses, *he* gets sued, not > me! :) Does PRC have more attorneys, or Mexicans? . Christopher A. Young Learn about Jesus www.lds.org . |
| Stormin Mormon <cayoung61@hotmail.com>: Sep 29 09:34PM -0400 > bought a lathe that covers 10 square feet with the base and sits on 4 > 9 square inch pads and weighs 8000 lbs. > Eric Sounds like my elementary school lunch room monitor woman. We used to call her Bubbles. . Christopher A. Young Learn about Jesus www.lds.org . |
| Stormin Mormon <cayoung61@hotmail.com>: Sep 29 09:35PM -0400 On 9/29/2014 8:49 PM, Oren wrote: >> beer. Why would anyone want WiFi in a treehouse. I would think this >> would be a place to escape all that stuff. > The WIFI is how one orders more beer delivery. Can I help you further? With your antenna that high, can't you pirate a signal from a neighbor? . Christopher A. Young Learn about Jesus www.lds.org . |
| Oren <Oren@127.0.0.1>: Sep 29 06:57PM -0700 On Mon, 29 Sep 2014 21:35:11 -0400, Stormin Mormon >> The WIFI is how one orders more beer delivery. Can I help you further? >With your antenna that high, can't you pirate a >signal from a neighbor? Who manages the network? |
| John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Sep 29 08:35PM -0700 On 09/29/2014, 5:38 PM, G. Ross wrote: > You keep talking about WiFi. More important is a refrig for the beer. > Why would anyone want WiFi in a treehouse. I would think this would be > a place to escape all that stuff. Hmm, well with two separate cables your power requirements are fine, just run them on 24VAC @ 50A (120VAC @ 10A equivalent) and then use step up transformer or AC to DC regulators to power everything in the tree house. No unsightly wires! John :-#)# -- (Please post followups or tech inquiries to the newsgroup) John's Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9 (604)872-5757 or Fax 872-2010 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) www.flippers.com "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out." |
| "Danny D." <dannydiamico@gmail.com>: Sep 30 03:37AM Lew Hodgett wrote, on Mon, 29 Sep 2014 18:29:57 -0700: > IOW, 14,000/5 = 2,800 pounds as the basic design limit. Times two cables, which is 5,600 pounds, at least. :) |
| Wayne Chirnside <faux@notthere.com>: Sep 29 08:09PM On Sun, 28 Sep 2014 17:12:25 -0700, jeffreyscottarnold wrote: > Hopefully someone knows what's going on. I don't have a ton of tapes, > but would like to transfer my few remaining home videos before retiring > the format forever. Thanks. My take on that is a friction pad, just a piece of felt often glued to a copper spindle brake wrapped around the spindle. At least that's what I've most often seen with that symptom. A bit of felt glued back inside the brake will fix it easily in most cases. OTOH you say it's a combo TV -VCR and those a royal PITA to take apart and put back together, so much so I refuse to work on any combos myself. YMMV |
| mike <ham789@netzero.net>: Sep 29 02:49PM -0700 On 9/29/2014 1:09 PM, Wayne Chirnside wrote: > OTOH you say it's a combo TV -VCR and those a royal PITA to take apart > and put back together, so much so I refuse to work on any combos myself. > YMMV Been a long time, but, if memory serves... There's a light pipe that pokes thru that hole in the bottom of the tape. There's a sensor on the edge of the tape. As I recall, mine had that symptom when there was some gunk on that sensor blocking the light. |
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 11 updates in 2 topics
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| Michael Black <et472@ncf.ca>: Sep 28 08:26PM -0400 > Hopefully someone knows what's going on. I don't have a ton of tapes, > but would like to transfer my few remaining home videos before retiring > the format forever. Thanks. There's a faq about VCRs at http:www.repairfaq.org that even includes some photos of how the tape is supposed to wind. At least read that first before asking a vague question. Michael |
| Ian Malcolm <See.My.Sig.for.email@totally.invalid>: Sep 29 01:01AM Michael Black <et472@ncf.ca> wrote in > some photos of how the tape is supposed to wind. At least read that > first before asking a vague question. > Michael If ive read the model number off your youtube video correctly, its a Toshiba DVR-610. There appears to be a service manual online at: <http://www.manualowl.com/m/Toshiba/DVR610/Manual/274957> but it doesnt cover the details of the VCR mechaninsm. 95% odds its got deteriorated rubber parts, probably a drive belt or idler tyre, or maybe a friction clutch has gone bad. Its supposed to drive the takeup reel during the early stages of unloading to wind the loop of tape back into the cassette. Basically it needs servicing. If you had the skills to do this, you wouldn't be asking here what's wrong with it and most of the combo units even from leading brand manufacturers were pretty cruddy to start with so it is probably not cost effective to have it serviced, even if parts are still obtainable. -- Ian Malcolm. London, ENGLAND. (NEWSGROUP REPLY PREFERRED) ianm[at]the[dash]malcolms[dot]freeserve[dot]co[dot]uk [at]=@, [dash]=- & [dot]=. *Warning* HTML & >32K emails --> NUL |
| N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Sep 29 12:13PM +0100 > Hello. I purchased this combo player/dvd recorder a few years back. Only played about 10 vhs tapes with it, as I transferred old stuff to dvd. Then it began to do what it does in this video: it will accept the tape, seat the tape, then eject it and create a situation where there's a string of tape not wound back into the cassette: > http://youtu.be/s2e9OQBMAy8 > Hopefully someone knows what's going on. I don't have a ton of tapes, but would like to transfer my few remaining home videos before retiring the format forever. Thanks. most likely perished rubber pulley tyre or drive band, or failed slip clutch or less likely something jammed under jockey-wheel swing arm |
| chuck <chuck@deja.net>: Sep 29 09:11AM -0500 On Sun, 28 Sep 2014 17:12:25 -0700 (PDT), jeffreyscottarnold@lycos.com wrote: >Hello. I purchased this combo player/dvd recorder a few years back. Only played about 10 vhs tapes with it, as I transferred old stuff to dvd. Then it began to do what it does in this video: it will accept the tape, seat the tape, then eject it and create a situation where there's a string of tape not wound back into the cassette: >http://youtu.be/s2e9OQBMAy8 >Hopefully someone knows what's going on. I don't have a ton of tapes, but would like to transfer my few remaining home videos before retiring the format forever. Thanks. This unit has the worst vcr mechanism I have ever seen. The gear drive that turns the take up hub and the braking system are so poorly designed that it is amazing that they work at all. My suggestion is to find an older vcr to play the tapes and run video and audio cables to a DVD recorder. |
| "Danny D." <dannydiamico@gmail.com>: Sep 28 04:50PM OFWW wrote, on Sat, 27 Sep 2014 23:55:45 -0700: > If you installed these without lock washers I would recommend you go > back up and at least put nylock nuts as safety nuts. Heating and > cooling will cause those nuts to walk off the u-bolts. Thank you for that safety suggestion! That is a good point. Safety is paramount. This treehouse 50 feet in the air in the redwoods has to outlast us and it has be safe at all times. Since we didn't use lock washers on the steel clamps, I will advise my neighbor and I will snap a picture of the results for you. You will notice that we doubled up the two ends of the steel cable as they wrapped around the tree, so that we'd always have two cables supporting the bridge. On the big tree, 125 feet away, we will add a wraparound additional steel cable, so that the middle also has two cables. Any other safety ideas are welcome, as we're just at the point now where we can start hanging the suspension bridge from the two steel catenaries. For example, you will notice that we followed the rule as shown here: http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/Recovery/dead%20end.jpg Following that diagram, we put the "saddle" of the clamps on the "live end" (the mnemonic we used was "don't saddle a dead horse"). http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/Recovery/use%20of%20wire%20rope%20clips.jpg Any other tips are welcome, as we're just now at the stage where we have the ability to build the 125 foot long bridge starting about 15 feet up in a pine, and then going straight across a steep slope through the set of two redwoods, and then on to the really big redwood 125 feet down the slope. The treehouse will be in the middle of the bridge. |
| Oren <Oren@127.0.0.1>: Sep 28 10:31AM -0700 On Sun, 28 Sep 2014 16:50:02 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D." >Following that diagram, we put the "saddle" of the clamps on the >"live end" (the mnemonic we used was "don't saddle a dead horse"). > http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/Recovery/use%20of%20wire%20rope%20clips.jpg Just curious. Is there a torque spec for those clamps? Or ... |
| Dan Coby <adcoby@earthlink.net>: Sep 28 12:34PM -0700 On 9/28/2014 9:50 AM, Danny D. wrote: ... snip > On the big tree, 125 feet away, we will add a wraparound additional > steel cable, so that the middle also has two cables. ... snip > steep slope through the set of two redwoods, and then on to the > really big redwood 125 feet down the slope. > The treehouse will be in the middle of the bridge. Are you saying that the tree house will be in the middle of a 125 foot suspension bridge. How much will the tree house weigh when fully loaded and do you have any idea of the forces that may be in the cables? Dan |
| "Danny D." <dannydiamico@gmail.com>: Sep 28 09:11PM dpb wrote, on Sun, 28 Sep 2014 13:54:02 -0500: > I still think the clips should be used as delivered by the manufacturer They *are* designed for this purpose, are they not? They didn't come with lock washers. I'm sure we have nothing against putting them on; but, if they really needed lock washers, wouldn't they have come with them? |
| "Mike Marlow" <mmarlowREMOVE@windstream.net>: Sep 28 05:32PM -0400 Danny D. wrote: > They didn't come with lock washers. > I'm sure we have nothing against putting them on; but, if they really > needed lock washers, wouldn't they have come with them? Yes. -- -Mike- mmarlowREMOVE@windstream.net |
| Dan Coby <adcoby@earthlink.net>: Sep 28 08:32PM -0700 On 9/28/2014 2:18 PM, Danny D. wrote: > (with two little redwoods, side by side, in between). > The steel cables can handle 14,000 pounds each. > That's 28,000 pounds (because we maintain a double cable throughout). You also have to consider the geometry of what you are creating. If you are tensioning the cables for very little sag then the forces in the cable can be many time the weight of the tree house. Without knowing exactly what you are creating then I cannot guess. That is why I asked if you had any ideas of the forces in the cable. > We don't know how much the bridge & treehouse will weigh, but if it's > close to or greater than 28,000 pounds, then we have a problem. > How much do you think a treehouse will weigh? I do not know what you are planning upon building. That was why I asked you. If you are talking about the tree houses that we built as kids with a plywood floor and a few boards and a tar paper roof then only a couple of hundred pounds. If you are talking about some of the multi story creations that I have seen on TV then many tons. Dan |
| "Danny D." <dannydiamico@gmail.com>: Sep 29 05:24AM Dan Coby wrote, on Sun, 28 Sep 2014 20:32:48 -0700: > If you are tensioning the cables for very little sag > then the forces in the cable can be many time the weight > of the tree house. We "tensioned" the cables, by hand. What we literally did was put a broomstick through the 60 pound wooden spool of 250 feet of 3/8" steel cable and we mounted that on two chairs about 15 feet downhill of a big pine tree. Then we went uphill to that pine tree at a point about 15 feet off the ground and then back to the chairs with the spool of wire. At that point, we tied a rope to the end of the wire, and we walked the wire downhill a little less than about 100 feet to a big redwood. At that redwood, we climbed up to the same height as the pine (which, since it's downhill, is about 40 or so feet up in the air) and we pulled the rope with the wire cable attached. Then we pulled the rope which pulled the cable back up the hill back to the point on the path 15 feet below the pine, where we pulled it tight by hand, and then clamped the 8 clamps on. Then, we simply slid the cable around the big redwood and slid it around the pine, until the cable clamps were symmetric around the pine, as shown in the last set of pictures. I won't mention the fact that we accidentally crossed the cables because we went around the big redwood the wrong way, as that's embarrassing to mention. Nor will I mention how many times we got hung up in the branches between trees, necessitating mid-air precarious surgery on the trees. Given all that, I wouldn't call the tension all that tight. You can see the sag in the photos. Maybe it sags, oh, I don't know, about 5 to 10 feet maybe? > a plywood floor and a few boards and a tar paper roof then only a couple > of hundred pounds. If you are talking about some of the multi story > creations that I have seen on TV then many tons. I think we're talking just a plywood box, with a deck. I should mention that there will be anchors on the two little redwoods, so, the treehouse won't actually be floating on all sides. The bridge *will* be floating though. It should be fun once it's done and wired for Internet. It has a great view once you're up in the redwoods. |
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 2 updates in 2 topics
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| OFWW <OFWW@who.me>: Sep 27 11:55PM -0700 On Sun, 28 Sep 2014 02:41:13 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D." >Just to update this thread, we completed the 250 feet of steel cabling >today by lashing the two ends together using these cable clamps: > https://c3.staticflickr.com/3/2942/15372056651_7a845164f7_c.jpg If you installed these without lock washers I would recommend you go back up and at least put nylock nuts as safety nuts. Heating and cooling will cause those nuts to walk off the u-bolts. >As you can imagine, we wear harnesses and we have static lines hanging >from all the trees, as you'd be amazed how many times you need them: > https://c3.staticflickr.com/3/2945/15375216105_9961137c64_b.jpg I hate ladders like these, seen the two by's pull off after a short while especially if your shouldering a load going up or down. The rungs should be in notches. Hope no one or nothing falls. |
| "Danny D." <dannydiamico@gmail.com>: Sep 28 02:41AM Just to update this thread, we completed the 250 feet of steel cabling today by lashing the two ends together using these cable clamps: https://c3.staticflickr.com/3/2942/15372056651_7a845164f7_c.jpg To keep the cables from cutting into the trees, and to allow the trees to grow outward, we put up a series of these wooden standoff blocks: https://c3.staticflickr.com/3/2945/15188529430_6294070f9b_b.jpg You'll notice that we doubled the cables as they wrapped around the trees so that the strength is always two time 14,000 pounds, at all times: https://c3.staticflickr.com/3/2944/15188634078_2b3de04150_c.jpg Here, you can see the two cables, hanging as two catenaries, from which we will hand the suspension bridge: https://c3.staticflickr.com/3/2943/15188529300_bbedf3ba0c_c.jpg We're starting to get used to working in the heights, as you can see by this photo of my neighbor coming down from disentangling the lines: https://c4.staticflickr.com/4/3901/15188714847_e77461b64d_c.jpg As you can imagine, we wear harnesses and we have static lines hanging from all the trees, as you'd be amazed how many times you need them: https://c3.staticflickr.com/3/2945/15375216105_9961137c64_b.jpg In fact, my unenviable job today was to stand at the TOP of this ladder and position the cables, which I did with two hands on the cables so I had to be wearing a harness or I would have fallen off in no time: https://c4.staticflickr.com/4/3870/15188634228_37f45d19e2_b.jpg I'll let you know when we drill the redwoods to put in the tree bolts, which will anchor the house; but first, we're working on the suspension bridge (you can see our cargo netting in some of the pictures above). Tomorrow we're putting up WiFi on a neighbor's roof, so we wont' be working on the treehouse until next week. |
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 4 updates in 2 topics
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- Truck- Starter/Battery help - 3 Updates
- Which of these is the hydrostatic test date of my 5# soda CO2 tank? - 1 Update
| amdx <nojunk@knology.net>: Sep 25 12:07PM -0500 On 9/25/2014 11:23 AM, Tom Miller wrote: >> adjust it from a 75 volt meter to a 15 volt meter. Digital meters are >> not real helpful for this type of testing. > Is the replacement starter a new one or a rebuild? I didn't put it on, my had here nephew put it on, and he usually gets parts at Napa. However my wife gave me orders to get new contacts at Toyota, so I figured she must have talked to him (she wouldn't now such a thing to say) That makes me think maybe he got it at Toyota. The receipt is in 2012 0r 2013 file, but I don't care to dig it out. But I don't want to throw parts at it, rather figure it out first. I have notice oil on the starter/solenoid, it is dripping from the valve cover, I tighten the screws, they were all very loose. So, a new theory, oil has contaminated the contacts making for intermittent starting. I'm holding off until the problem clears or becomes more consistent. Mikek |
| dplatt@coop.radagast.org (David Platt): Sep 25 10:05AM -0700 > I'm having very intermittent lack of starter rotation on a Toyota >T-100. Over the last 14 years I have replaced the contacts it the >solenoid and more recently (1 to 2 years) replaced the starter. For what it's worth, I had repeated problems with the starter on a Ford Aerostar I owned - I believe the engine and starter were of Mitsubishi origin. The symptoms were that every three years or so, cranking would become intermittent - occasionally slow to start cranking. It would get worse and worse, and eventually the starter would fail to engage at all. Sometimes, if the starter wouldn't work after the vehicle had been stopped only for a short time, I could let the vehicle sit for a couple of hours and it would start again. I had to have the starter replaced two or three times during the time I owned the Aerostar. It would always fix the problem... for about three years... and then it would recur. What I was told, by one of the mechanics who worked on it, was that the starter was prone to developing a bad spot on the commutator... I'd guess it was due to arcing. If the bad spot was bad/burned enough, then when the starter happened to stop rotating with this spot under one of the brushes, there wouldn't be adequate contact and the starter would not crank. It would probably have been possible to service the starter (open it up and re-turn the commutator ring) and I imagine that's probably what was done to the "remanufactured" starters I bought. |
| mroberds@att.net: Sep 26 09:29AM > Question 1) The battery voltage sets at 12.7, when I energize the > starter it drops to 10.7. > Is that a normal voltage under starter load? Yeah. The starter can be drawing up to a couple of hundred amps, so it's normal for it to go down some. I have heard various values for the line between "good" and "bad", usually somewhere between 9 and 10 V. > starter without starting the motor. > How do you disable the spark on these newer vehicles without a > distributor cap? (newer 1997) :-) Probably the most common is to remove the fuel pump relay or fuse, or unplug the fuel pump. Note that if the vehicle has been run recently, there might still be enough pressure in the injection system to run the engine for several seconds the first time you crank it after removing the fuse/relay or unplugging. If you have the style where multiple coils sit on an ignition module, unplugging the low-voltage connector to the ignition module will usually kill the spark. Matt Roberds |
| "Danny D." <dannydiamico@gmail.com>: Sep 25 06:17PM Carl Ijames wrote, on Thu, 25 Sep 2014 12:06:03 -0400: > I meant, get a tank from Praxair and take it to Carbonic and pay them to > fill it. Then decide if you ever want to go back to Praxair (maybe just > before that hydro expires? Oh. I'm sorry. That *is* clever! It solves *both* problems. I will call Praxair now. Praxair 408-588-2035 $29.49 for a swap of steel for steel |
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 12 updates in 3 topics
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