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Jon Elson <elson@pico-systems.com>: Mar 30 11:15AM -0500


> Or, can I just put ONE fuse on the center tap?
 
> From the best of my recollection, the power transformer is around 500
> volts center tapped.
 
Probably not a good idea. The typical electronic fuses are meant to
interrupt up to 250 V AC, and will likely arc over with 500+ V with a strong
DC component to them. A slo-blo fuse might do better as they have a spring
to pull one end away from the other. But, I would not expect it to work
reliably.
 
Jon
N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Mar 30 04:28PM +0100

34 screws and numerous ribbon connectors to remove, to get the rear
panel apart , just to see let alone test the fuse that seems to pass
mains power to the big Tx , coming out of standby.
Better check there is no power going to the big Tx first. There is
little current surge at power on , so suggestive of no main Tx coming
on, just the little standby Tx.
N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Mar 30 04:34PM +0100

nothing to do with the current problem. Mighty strange place to put 2x
fans, each one 20mm from a wall of unperforated aluminium, how the air
is supposed to pass and cool the H/S vanes is beyond me.
"(PeteCresswell)" <x@y.Invalid>: Mar 30 10:52AM -0400

Per Mark Lloyd:
>Anyway, I've been hearing about this use of SIT for a long time now.
>Wouldn't the robocaller machines been adapted already?
 
Seems to me like the only test would be two phones side-by-side on the
same exchange: one "With" and one "Without" and some record of calls to
each.
 
Having said that, I have had the SIT tone for "Number not working" in
the beginning of my answering machine announcement for at least 4 years
now and I do not perceive any improvement.
 
--
Pete Cresswell
"(PeteCresswell)" <x@y.Invalid>: Mar 30 10:56AM -0400

Per Dave Platt:
>(with no content) in the hope that people will see the "missed call"
>indication on their Caller ID system, and call back... at which point
>the marketer tries their sales pitch.
 
Supposedly there was a scam using that strategy: the CallerID number
would be one of those exchanges like the phone sex operators use where
the caller gets charged per minute and a percentage of the charge goes
to the operator.
--
Pete Cresswell
"Col. Edmund Burke" <neach69/69@jramy.org>: Mar 30 08:18AM -0700

"bill ashford" <billa!x@top.com> wrote in message
news:mf8q6h$l0o$3@dont-email.me...
 
Bill? Are you having a happy day in spite of the phone?
"David E. Ross" <nobody@nowhere.invalid>: Mar 30 08:27AM -0700

On 3/30/2015 7:42 AM, (PeteCresswell) wrote:
> somewhere, to reduce the budget for these prosecutions." or
> "We have an already-limited budget and we have to prioritize."
 
> It's probably #2, but my inner misanthrope likes #1.
 
If the source is indeed off-shore -- that is, in another nation -- what
jurisdiction would the U.S. government or the government of any U.S.
state have in that other nation? Turn that around. If someone in the
U.S. violated a German or French patent, should those nations have the
right to go to Philadelphia and arrest someone, try him, and fine him?
 
--
David E. Ross
 
Why do we tolerate political leaders who
spend more time belittling hungry children
than they do trying to fix the problem of
hunger? <http://mazon.org/>
Vic Smith <thismailautodeleted@comcast.net>: Mar 30 10:34AM -0500

On Mon, 30 Mar 2015 10:42:22 -0400, "(PeteCresswell)" <x@y.Invalid>
wrote:
 
> somewhere, to reduce the budget for these prosecutions." or
> "We have an already-limited budget and we have to prioritize."
 
> It's probably #2, but my inner misanthrope likes #1.
 
I rarely get non-charity/political calls. I did get a call a couple
weeks ago from a vent cleaning company.
What kind of calls would come from overseas?
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 25 updates in 7 topics

dplatt@coop.radagast.org (Dave Platt): Mar 29 01:09PM -0700

In article <ySTn02F3I$FVFwxf@soft255.demon.co.uk>,
 
>If it isn't already, you could pester your councillor/senator/whatever
>to have similar legislation passed there.
 
Such call are, in general, already illegal in the United States, and
have been for some years.
 
Robo-dialing and the playing of automated announcements are not
permitted. Making marketing calls to people who have registered their
phone number on the "Do Not Call" list is explicitly illegal.
 
The law has next to no teeth, though. It is rare for the authorities
to actually prosecute cases - it takes a *lot* of complaints to
pressure them into doing the "legwork" needed to trace back these
sorts of calls to the originator(s), and gather the evidence needed to
secure a criminal conviction or a civil fine.
 
If I recall, the law does give the offended consumer (who receives
such calls) the right of private action - i.e. the right to file a
lawsuit in civil court against the marketer. Unfortunately (as with
junk fakes) it is both difficult and expensive to track down the
offender, collect proof that s/he was the one who called, identify the
business or business owner, file suit, serve the suit, go to court,
make your case, win, get a judgement, and then actually collect.
 
A lot of these calls come from "boiler room" telemarketing operations,
which can set up and shut down on a moment's notice. By using Voice
over IP they can make calls to anywhere, from anywhere, with excellent
anonymity. And, a fair number of such calls are now originated from
outside the U.S., so applying the TCPA law becomes almost impossible.
 
>though like here it was probably set up to deal with heavy breathers and
>the like. Otherwise, the suggestion of an answerphone set on speaker
>sounds like a good compromise for now.
 
A couple of years ago, I switched my wife's business landline over
from a dedicated hard-line to a voice-over-IP provider. The incoming
call comes to an Asterisk server I run. It has a multi-layer defense
against junk calls:
 
- Any call which is on our private "blacklist" is immediately
rejected with a "CONGESTION" error.
 
- Calls from outside our local area codes go to a "Please wait to
be connected" voice message, and then a 10-to-15 second delay
before the phone / answering machine are rung. This gets rid of
a lot of junk calls - they don't hang on the line long enough
to get past the delay.
 
- I can dial "666" from any of our VoIP phones, and the system will
read back the number of the last call on her line. I can then hit
"6" to add it to the blacklist. If I head a ring-no-answer from
her office I call 666, write down the number, run a quick Web check
to see if there are telemarketing complaints against it, and if so,
call back and "6" it to the blacklist.
 
I'm strongly tempted to add an automatic Web lookup to the
"telemarketing complaint" web site, while the call is still in
progress (or immediately after) and blacklist numbers that have been
mentioned repeatedly or recently.
 
Unfortunately, none of the above helps with our main home land-line,
which is still olde-fashioned analog (I don't want to get rid of it as
it's pretty certain to work even during a power failure or Internet
outage).
Gordon Shumway <Rhonda@Planet.Melmac>: Mar 29 04:45PM -0500

On Sun, 29 Mar 2015 10:10:13 -0400, "Mayayana"
>enforcement. I probably get 2-3 junk calls per day.
>I gave up complaining about them. I just use an
>answering machine with Caller ID.
 
That was just a small portion of the "Change" that Obummer has given
us that we didn't want.
 
>in Asia.
> With friends like that, who needs Republican
>oligarchs?
 
You may not want oligarchs, neither do I, but you probably voted for
the all mighty supreme leader who rules without regard for our
constitution, the will of the people or the safety of our country.
 
>as a utility for all practical purposes. My own phone
>company is raising my rate next month. There's nothing
>I can do.
 
Nobody is holding a gun to your head demanding you continue with that
company are they. You are free to choose any provider you wish.
 
>with. Here in the colonies we have to depend on the civility
>of European law to police "cowboy" American corporations.
>It's our only hope. :)
 
You poor, poor, helpless child.
"David E. Ross" <nobody@nowhere.invalid>: Mar 29 04:15PM -0700

On 3/29/2015 1:09 PM, Vic Smith wrote:
 
> Why would nobody be on the line? Doesn't make sense unless it's
> harassment.
> Change your phone number.
 
You did not read my earlier reply.
 
A robocall is initiated by a computer, not a person. When you answer,
the computer is supposed to connect you to a live pitchman. Sometimes,
however, the call center is understaffed, which means there is no
available pitchman. If you stay on the line and repeatedly say "Hello",
you might eventually connect to a live person.
 
--
David E. Ross
 
Why do we tolerate political leaders who
spend more time belittling hungry children
than they do trying to fix the problem of
hunger? <http://mazon.org/>
dplatt@coop.radagast.org (Dave Platt): Mar 29 04:58PM -0700

In article <ujmghadklb76hjej8j8rvs2d3c2stf5bn1@4ax.com>,
>>one is on the line when she answers.
 
> Why would nobody be on the line? Doesn't make sense unless it's
>harassment.
 
Quite a lot of these callers are using predictive or "robo-dialing"
systems. Their computer system calls phone numbers, and tries to
detect the presence of a "human answer" - somebody who picks up and
says "Hello?" or something like that.
 
Only when the computer detects a human answer, does it start playing
its recorded sales pitch, or ring the call through to a human
telemarketer who reads the pitch. If the computer detects what sounds
like an answering machine message, it just hangs up. If the computer
detects a human answer, but all of the human telemarketers are busy
annoying other consumers, the computer hangs up.
 
In some other cases, the telemarketers seem to be making short calls
(with no content) in the hope that people will see the "missed call"
indication on their Caller ID system, and call back... at which point
the marketer tries their sales pitch. This may be a somewhat feeble
attempt to avoid the Do Not Call list, because the marketer didn't
*technically* make a sales call to the consumer (just a call with no
message) and the consumer ended up calling the marketer back and is
thus "fair game" for a sales pitch.
 
>Change your phone number.
 
Since many of these robo-dialers work their way through whole ranges
of phone numbers, doing so won't help much.
"Mayayana" <mayayana@invalid.nospam>: Mar 29 09:14PM -0400

| Nobody is holding a gun to your head demanding you continue with that
| company are they. You are free to choose any provider you wish.
|
 
No. That's the point. As I explained and you apparently
missed, there are two options. They both charge the same
rate. Like most neighborhoods, there's a duopoly that's
functionally a monopoly. (Many people don't even have that
much "choice".)
 
There was an interesting article this past week about
a software developer who's selling his new house because
he can't get cable service, despite officially having a
choice of several companies. It throws some light on the
effects of the pro-big-business, anti-citizen position you're
espousing:
 
http://arstechnica.com/business/2015/03/new-homeowner-selling-house-because-he-cant-get-comcast-internet/
 
An interesting detail of that story is that the man lives
in one of 20 states where lobbyists have managed to
get laws passed prohibiting municipal broadband service
being sold to individuals. It so happens that there is a
municipal line running near the man's house, but it's illegal
for them to give him service. That would be "unfair
competition"!
Ashton Crusher <demi@moore.net>: Mar 29 07:01PM -0700

On Sun, 29 Mar 2015 08:12:53 -0400, bill ashford <billa!x@top.com>
wrote:
 
>work with this existing system. Anyone have ideas? Are there any
>number pressing devices cheaper than $100?
 
>Thanks-- bill
 
 
I bought this on Amazon. Works great. $40
Has a white list and black list as well as a screening mode.
 
SENTRY Dual Mode Call Blocker. Block 100% Robo Calls. Stop All Junk
Calls, Election Calls, Survey Calls. 9999 Number Capacity
Gordon Shumway <Rhonda@Planet.Melmac>: Mar 29 09:28PM -0500

On Sun, 29 Mar 2015 21:14:15 -0400, "Mayayana"
>rate. Like most neighborhoods, there's a duopoly that's
>functionally a monopoly. (Many people don't even have that
>much "choice".)
 
There are more than those two options as others have pointed out. You
said you didn't want VOIP. Well, that was one choice you made. Another
choice you have is to have no phone at all.
 
Be that as it may, the market will seek it's own level and the
consumers will continue to pay what is charged until they feel the
price is too high. It's the old supply and demand thing.
 
Previously you complained about Citizen protection from corporate
exploitation has gone way downhill in the US. Cite some examples of
this exploitation. From the current administration I'm only seeing
exploitation from the government. That will change
 
Smarty <nobody@nobody.com>: Mar 30 02:52AM

> or answering machine, or played manually on a computer, to achieve a similar effect."
 
> Susan
> --
 
Tried this method for a few months with very limited success. Switched to
nomiribo and mostly eliminated my problem. Bought a $90 Teleblocker and
problem totally solved.
Smarty <nobody@nobody.com>: Mar 30 02:52AM


> Just curious, I've thought about something like this too.
> I've also seen the nomorobo http://www.nomorobo.com/signup for sign up and
> http://www.nomorobo.com/ for home page.
 
Monotonous is excellent and free if your carrier supports simultaneous 2
number ringing AND you can live with a single annoying ring for each
nuisance caller it recognizes.
Bob <RBF1147-UN@YAH0O.COM>: Mar 29 09:06PM -0700

On 3/29/2015 12:11, Zaidy036 wrote:
 
> NoMoRobo allows one ring thru and then cancels the call for identified
> calls of this type.
 
In order to use NoMoRobo your phone service needs to have a "follow-me"
where incoming calls will ring on your phone and other predetermined
phones simultaneously. NoMoRobo keeps a database of "undesired" numbers
and when such a number shows up on your caller ID the call gets answered
by NoMoRobo, so you hear only one ring. It doesn't intercept all
undesirable calls, but it's a good start -- and it's free.
"ChairMan" <nospam@thanks.com>: Mar 29 11:37PM -0500

> people will
> give it out so the junk callers will get it.
 
> [sig with INCORRECT delimiter snipped]
 
it doesn't matter, they are robocalling. They take a prefix
and area code, the computer starts calling all the possible
combos, logs what number answered and what time.
They sell that data and there you have the birth of a
telemarketer
HerHusband <unknown@unknown.com>: Mar 30 05:41AM

Hi Bill,
 
> DSL on copper and all wired phones. So whatever is used will have to
> work with this existing system. Anyone have ideas? Are there any
> number pressing devices cheaper than $100?
 
First, add your number to the federal do-not-call registry.
 
Second, see if your phone service provider provides any kind of phone
blocking services. We use 1-VOIP for our phone service. I block all
callers from 800, 888, and 876 numbers. Family and friends will never use
toll-free numbers, nor do any local businesses we work with (banks,
medical, etc.). I also block a few specific numbers from local callers
(local fundraisers and whatnot).
 
I can also set up my phone filters to only accept numbers from specific
area codes, but so far that has not been necessary.
 
Using these two simple steps we have not had a junk call in years.
 
On the rare occasion I get an unknown call I only say "hello" once. If the
person on the other end doesn't say hello back, it's probably an automated
call. If I get a recording or a person that is obviously a sales call, I
simply hang up. I have more important things to do than waste my time
interacting with a call I didn't want in the first place. Rude? Maybe, but
the unwanted call was rude to start with.
 
Good luck,
 
Anthony Watson
www.mountainsoftware.com
www.watsondiy.com
Vic Smith <thismailautodeleted@comcast.net>: Mar 30 01:33AM -0500

On Sun, 29 Mar 2015 16:15:43 -0700, "David E. Ross"
>however, the call center is understaffed, which means there is no
>available pitchman. If you stay on the line and repeatedly say "Hello",
>you might eventually connect to a live person.
 
I'm questioning why this would happen "upwards of 10 calls daily."
I get a robocall about once a every two weeks. Charities and
political calls are exempt from the "do not call" list.
Some use robocalling.
I've learned to recognize the soundless delay and simply hang up the
phone. If I'm not quick enough somebody comes on the other end.
The OP is getting '"upwards of 10 calls daily" and doesn't know who is
calling; something is wrong with that from her end.
The "do not call" list has worked for me. In the 10 years or so since
I entered my number unwanted calls are few and far between.
I've told maybe only 2 callers that they've violated the "do not call"
list and they never called again.
This guy's wife is getting thousands more unwanted calls than me.
That's pure harassment in my book. Or bullshit. Shouldn't happen.
N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Mar 30 09:29AM +0100

On 29/03/2015 21:42, Tim Wescott wrote:
 
> Our current cordless phones also read out the Caller ID. The voice
> synthesis is awful, but after a while you get to understand their mangled
> version of the names of various friends and family members.
 
The message I put on one for someone plagued by junk was just a short
beep, .. . beep every second for the 2 minutes maximum of recorded
outgoing message, no answerphone recording option. That meant it did not
drown out the genuine incoming caller message and the caller knew the
line was live and 2 minutes is plenty of time for the recipient to get
to the phone, if genuine, and they were at home.
The theory being that any intending burglar would think there was a
fault on the line.
John S <Sophi.2@invalid.org>: Mar 30 05:46AM -0500

On 3/29/2015 3:42 PM, Tim Wescott wrote:
 
> Our current cordless phones also read out the Caller ID. The voice
> synthesis is awful, but after a while you get to understand their mangled
> version of the names of various friends and family members.
 
Check out NoMoRobo.
Martin Brown <|||newspam|||@nezumi.demon.co.uk>: Mar 30 11:55AM +0100

On 29/03/2015 21:42, Tim Wescott wrote:
>>> no one is on the line when she answers. We have caller ID and it shows
>>> numbers never heard of before. For about 4 years, we've both put up
>>> with it but over the last couple of years, the calls have increased.
 
I don't know if it works with US call farming but answering an unknown
caller with "dead air" can be moderately effective at putting them off.
 
Over in the UK we have a telephone preference service which allows you
to opt out of all reputable cold calling leaving only the disreputable
ones doing boilerroom scams by VOIP. There is a risk of collateral
damage if someone you know rings you up from an unusal number but once
they speak up you can carry on as normal if you recognise the voice.
> for valid calls. The only feature that I'd want to add to such a setup is
> a "hangup" button, although most robo-calls detect answering machines and
> cut off.
 
+1
 
A surprising number don't. I must make my outgoing answerphone msg a few
seconds longer since otherwise its memory clogs up with tail ends of
sales spiels ending along the lines of "or press 9 to opt out".
 
> Our current cordless phones also read out the Caller ID. The voice
> synthesis is awful, but after a while you get to understand their mangled
> version of the names of various friends and family members.
 
Mine just shows it on a local LCD.
 
You get used to the exchange codes of dodgy cold call farms. Is there
any US equivalent of "who calls me" where you can report dodgy cold call
organisations and find out what it is they are selling?
 
I generally let the answerphone filter incoming calls.
 
--
Regards,
Martin Brown
"(PeteCresswell)" <x@y.Invalid>: Mar 30 10:42AM -0400

Per Mark Lloyd:
>When the federal Do-Not-Call list was new, I registered for it, and
>forawhile was getting almost no junk calls. Now, I get as many as before.
 
My experience has been the same - with two additions:
 
- In the very beginning, I actually got a few bucks from the
Penna Atty Genera's office: my share of a settlement resulting
from a complaint I filed.
 
- I now have a stack of lame-sounding letters from the same Penna
Atty General's office to the effect that, since solicitors have
moved offshore and started using VOIP there's nothing they
can do. Which I translate to either "Somebody's paid off somebody,
somewhere, to reduce the budget for these prosecutions." or
"We have an already-limited budget and we have to prioritize."
 
It's probably #2, but my inner misanthrope likes #1.
--
Pete Cresswell
N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Mar 30 03:05PM +0100

Owner went away for 2 weeks, left the amp plugged in and in standby.
Nothing else in the house was affected, but still could be a power surge
while away , I suppose.
Returned to find the functions and display work but no audio, or even
hiss on any output. No Pre-PA link that could be missing, no PROTECT
mode in the display and not stuck in MUTE. The SM is out there, but I
suspect something very silly, rather than pulling this all bells and
whistles m/c apart. Not switch mode ps, heavy lump. No relay click over
heard and the fuse/s not located yet.
jhayr08roxas@gmail.com: Mar 30 06:47AM -0700

hi I have a samsung 5.3v charger and a different kinds of cable charger.. can i use my samsung 5.3v charger on my psp..thanks in advance..
Tesla110v , Shell <f6ceedb9c75b52f7fcc0a55cf0cfbf5d_1009@example.com>: Mar 30 12:37AM

I have a KLH21 serial # 01237, so it is near the beginning of the run.
makes noise like a radio, hiss and all that, but will not tune a FM station.
 
I checked all the antenna connections and that all looks good.
I would like to get it repaired.......
 
thanks Shell
tesla110v
 
--
dplatt@coop.radagast.org (Dave Platt): Mar 29 11:21PM -0700

>makes noise like a radio, hiss and all that, but will not tune a FM station.
 
>I checked all the antenna connections and that all looks good.
>I would like to get it repaired.......
 
Take a look at the following:
 
http://antiqueradio.org/KLHModelTwentyOne21FMRadio.htm
 
Also, dig around on http://fmtunerinfo.com
 
As suggested on the article on the antiqueradio site, a fairly common
problem in older FM radios/tuners is that they develop bad contacts in
the air-variable tuning capacitors. The metal shaft of the capacitor
(which is connected to the tuning knob, and to the movable "vanes")
is normally connected to ground via some sliding contacts - metal
"fingers" located where the shaft goes through the metal body of the
capacitor. The "fingers" are connected to the metal body, and are
supposed to rub against the moving shaft and make a good electrical
contact.
 
Over the years it's common for dirt, dust, dried-out lubricant (oil or
grease), and oxidation to build up on the ground fingers and the end
of the shaft. This gunk interrupts the electrical contact, and the
"tuning" of the radio becomes scratchy, noisy, irregular, or
completely unstable.
 
This may be what has happened to your KLH.
 
The fix for this is fairly straightforward - flush out the gunk,
restore good contact, and lubricate. A lot of people swear by Caig
Labs "DeOxIt" spray for this... the D-5 spray is about 5% of their
cleaning material mixed with a solvent. Note - do not "go crazy" and
spray this stuff all around the tuning capacitor - you do *not* want a
residue of this on the plates or vanes, as it will de-tune the
capacitor and possibly make things worse. Instead, carefully spray a
small amount of it into a small dish or bottle cap, then transfer a
few drops of the liquid to each contact point on the capacitor shaft.
Rotate the cap through its full tuning range a dozen times or so,
allowing the DeOxIt to break up and dissolve the accumulated gunk and
oxide.
 
That may be enough to restore your radio to usability.
 
I personally prefer to use DeOxIt to restore the contact, then flush
it out of the capacitor entirely with a "no residue" contact cleaner,
then add a drop of a lubricant such as FaderLube. Other people think
this is unnecessarily-complex overkill.
 
If cleaning the tuning cap contacts doesn't restore the radio to life,
and you can't find any broken wires, then you'll need to take it to a
technician who has the experience and equipment to do a repair and
re-alignment. The fmtunerinfo site has leads to some shops which
still have the necessary skills.
"Arfa Daily" <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com>: Mar 30 01:29AM +0100

"Ian Field" <gangprobing.alien@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:GuXRw.192255$ID3.162851@fx01.am4...
> bit you describe.
 
> But then I've recently stripped and re-installed my browser to sort some
> problems - I had a translate button then, now I don't.
 
Ok. Let's go for an example on both sites. Get the Google search box up, and
type in :
 
Sony DAV-S300 free schematic download
 
and click search. A link to elektrotanya should be right there at the top.
Click that, and it should take you to the download page for that manual. The
page is in English, and there is a preview image for the manual in the main
pane. Immediately below that pane, is some text and on the third line it
says "This manual is downloadable free of charge ... processing"
 
Keep watching that word "processing", and it will eventually change to "Get
Manual", underlined. If you now mouse over that, you will get the clickable
hand. Go ahead and click it, and the manual should start to download,
subject to any restraints imposed by your OS / antivirus software. The site
has always been totally trustworthy for me - otherwise I wouldn't recommend
it - and is a very useful resource.
 
A bit further down the Google results list, you will see a link to the same
manual at eserviceinfo.com. If you click on that one, it will take you to a
copy on their site. Note how the page presents. It is only when the page
looks like this, that you are actually on the manual. If the page looks more
like a list made out of boxes and there seems to be a lot of writing and
model numbers, then the chances are that the manual you are looking for is
not actually there, and it is just eserviceinfo having its 'best go' at
finding you something.
 
Going back to our example of the Sony manual, you will see half way down
that it says "Multipart" and to the right of that "0 1 2 3 4" with the "4"
highlighted in orange. This means that the file has been saved on the site
as a rar archive of five files, and all five need to be downloaded and saved
to your machine to get the complete manual. Click on the "0" which will then
turn orange. Scroll down the page until you see :
 
Download >> To download the file, please, click here ! << Download
 
Click on the middle bit and the first part will download. Scroll back up,
and highlight "1", then back down to
 
Download >> To download the file, please, click here ! << Download
 
again and so on until all five parts have downloaded to whatever directory
you've put them in. Now just click on the first one and your Winzip or
whatever software should open to extract and recombine them into the
original pdf.
 
eserviceinfo also has binaries for reprogramming a lot of TV eeproms. Again
a useful resource, and one that has never caused me any problems.
 
Arfa
gyro_john <john.wetzel@shaw.ca>: Mar 29 03:45PM -0700

On Friday, March 6, 2015 at 10:56:30 AM UTC-6, benitos wrote:
 
> I need these 2 Mosfets but they seem to be very rare.
 
> Any way to see replacements for them ?
 
> Thanks !
 
I Googled the two part numbers in your title line and immediately came up with their datasheets. Can you not just spec replacements parametrically?
 
Here's how I would do it:
- note the most important specs from the two data sheets.
- case style, wattage, voltage, current etc.
- go to an electronic supply web site like Digikey.
- search the MOSFETs - there'll be thousands.
- filter based on ratings that meet or exceed the originals. Now there'll be hundreds or dozens.
- filter for what is in stock. Pick ones where the supplier has lots of stock and the price is best.
- examine the data sheets looking for gotchas: less-common parameters that might be incompatible.
- Buy them and hopefully win. Unless the application is quite specialized, this should work fine. These don't look particularly unusual to me. Looks like something you'd find in the electronic ballast for a big lamp.
 
Best of luck to you.
dansabrservices@yahoo.com: Mar 29 04:17PM -0700

A quick look and I think an 18n60 would be a good replacement for the FK18sm
 
Dan
gyro_john <john.wetzel@shaw.ca>: Mar 29 04:02PM -0700

When you say that 'it broke at the weld', do you mean the point where the two dis-similar metals are welded together to form the thermocouple junction?
 
Because you can re-weld that with oxy-acetylene. With K-type and J-type anyhow. Here's how:
- Clean the ends of the two dis-similar metal wires.
- Twist or fold the ends over each other.
- Set up a hammer and a piece of flat metal to use for an anvil.
- Get a small flame going and gently heat up the joint of the two wires. You want them to glow dull to medium red. If you get them too hot and one of the wires melts off, start over.
- When you've got them glowing nicely, quickly put the torch down, position the hot joint close to the anvil and hit it good and hard with the hammer. You'll make a flattened lump with two wires sticking out of it, and there's your new thermocouple, freshly forge-welded.
 
I've done this several times. It works!
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