Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 16 updates in 6 topics

Ralph Mowery <rmowery28146@earthlink.net>: Apr 30 10:37AM -0400

I am in the US and just doing my own repairs and building.
 
Do I need to use any of the lead free solder to repair the boards that
were made usign the lead free solder?
 
I have not bought any yet and have been practicing witht he SMD on old
computer boards. That stuff seems a pain to work with compaired to the
'regular' tin/lead that I have been using for the last 50 years.
 
I have been thinking about getting some for the power transistors and
resistors where there is a lot of heat build up but not sure if that
application would even be worth the trouble.
N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Apr 30 04:23PM +0100

On 30/04/2016 15:37, Ralph Mowery wrote:
 
> I have been thinking about getting some for the power transistors and
> resistors where there is a lot of heat build up but not sure if that
> application would even be worth the trouble.
 
If you are just doing repairs or mods to PbF stuff then use SAC (Tin
+Silver+Copper) solder, the cost would be prohibitive for complete new
build soldering.
Ralph Mowery <rmowery28146@earthlink.net>: Apr 30 11:38AM -0400

In article <ng2iej$oba$1@dont-email.me>, diverse@tcp.co.uk says...
 
> If you are just doing repairs or mods to PbF stuff then use SAC (Tin
> +Silver+Copper) solder, the cost would be prohibitive for complete new
> build soldering.
 
As I would not use a pound every few years, the cost would not be a
problem for me. For the very small solder I doubt I would use a pound
of the lead free solder for the rest of my life.
 
As it is just for my own use at home I am not worried about the legal
Rohs part.
 
While the above seems like dumb questions, I find it is easier to ask
than spend all day looking for the answers.
 
I did see where some of the water clean up flux says that it can be left
on and some of it says it is safe for a few dys so I am going to stay
away from that. Reminds me of the old acid flux. May be ok to use if
cleaned off, but absolutly can not be left on if used. Even then I wold
never use it on anything but pumbing.
Fred McKenzie <fmmck@aol.com>: Apr 30 12:47PM -0400

In article <MPG.318e8d38c906088989694@news.east.earthlink.net>,
 
> I have not bought any yet and have been practicing witht he SMD on old
> computer boards. That stuff seems a pain to work with compaired to the
> 'regular' tin/lead that I have been using for the last 50 years.
 
Ralph-
 
I sympathize!
 
The problem with using tin-lead solder with SMD, is that lead
"amalgamates" with the silver contacts of surface mount devices,
resulting in a non-conductive layer between the device and the circuit.
 
While tin-lead-copper solder may help, it would be better to use
lead-free. It may work better if you use a temperature-controlled iron,
capable of higher temperatures than your old iron.
 
Fred
N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Apr 20 11:26AM +0100

On 20/04/2016 08:46, Gareth Magennis wrote:
 
> Gareth.
 
Somewhere along the way this amp has acquired 2 printed pages of the G
class PA, presumably someone accessed from Peavey as I cannot find it
out in wwwland for a clearer image, useable images but should have been
printed out as 4x A4 as some fine details is lost .
pages titled
Mixer amp 600 watts A,
and internal doc number 99099390
N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Apr 30 11:37AM +0100

eventually found the user manual , for this ferret thing
http://peavey.com/media/pdf/manuals/xr684fand696f_manual.pdf
Ralph Mowery <rmowery28146@earthlink.net>: Apr 29 07:27PM -0400

Does the flux in solder really get old ?
 
I have some of the older 60/40 flux core that is over 20 years old and
never had any problems with it.
 
Just getting into the SMD soldering and the tubes of solder paste have
an expiration date on them of about a year and some want to be kept in
the refrigerator when not being used. Also bought some liquid flux and
it mentions an expiration date about a year or so later.
 
Just being a home user it may take me years to use the stuff. I know
lots of things have an expired or use by date on them,but that does not
really mean much. I think the government just requires a date on some
items.
Ian Malcolm <See.My.Sig.for.email@totally.invalid>: Apr 29 11:46PM

> an expiration date on them of about a year and some want to be kept in
> the refrigerator when not being used. Also bought some liquid flux and
> it mentions an expiration date about a year or so later.
 
The problem with solder paste is surface oxidisation of the very small
particles of solder in it, and possibly saponification of the flux due to
its reaction with the oxidised solder. Keep it refrigerated in a ziplock
bag or hermetically sealed container with a silica gel sachet to control
humidity, at the lowest possible storage temperature as the rate of
degradation doubles with every 10 deg C increas in temperature, and allow
it to warm to room temperature an hour before use.
 
Fluxes are a more complex matter. Liquid Rosin fluxes are unlikely to
degrade over decades if securely stoppered. Liquid Synthetic fluxes may
be more problematic and if any component can further polymerise, the
expiry date may be justified. If kept cool and well stoppered, in a dark
place or opaque bottle, the chances are that it will still be good well
after the expiry date. Gel fluxes may be stable or may tend to seperate
or degrade. Again, cool and dark may help.
 
Ian Malcolm. London, ENGLAND. (NEWSGROUP REPLY PREFERRED)
ianm[at]the[dash]malcolms[dot]freeserve[dot]co[dot]uk
[at]=@, [dash]=- & [dot]=. *Warning* HTML & >32K emails --> NUL
Michael Black <et472@ncf.ca>: Apr 29 11:24PM -0400

N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Apr 30 08:41AM +0100

On 30/04/2016 00:27, Ralph Mowery wrote:
> lots of things have an expired or use by date on them,but that does not
> really mean much. I think the government just requires a date on some
> items.
 
A pot of solder "paste" (pretty solid now) I use, is expiry dated 1996,
I just locally mix in a blob of flux to make a small amount useable each
time
Ian Malcolm <See.My.Sig.for.email@totally.invalid>: Apr 30 05:12AM

dansabrservices@yahoo.com wrote in
> apply the Chip-Quik. This with a little heat should allow for easy
> removal.
 
> Dan
 
+1. Chip-Quik will get the melting point of the remaining solder down to
around 100 deg C so you can keep all 28 joints molten with a hot air gun
on a fairly low temperature setting without cooking the board.
 
--
Ian Malcolm. London, ENGLAND. (NEWSGROUP REPLY PREFERRED)
ianm[at]the[dash]malcolms[dot]freeserve[dot]co[dot]uk
[at]=@, [dash]=- & [dot]=. *Warning* HTML & >32K emails --> NUL
David Lesher <wb8foz@panix.com>: Apr 30 03:17AM


>I would really like a very small, cheap, air tank that I can charge every
>now and again at the local garage (i.e. can be filled with a standard car
>tyre pump).
 
Harbor Freight sells small pancake compressor+tank setups.
Item # 60637, Item # 95275
 
When on sale, it can be ~$40, as I recall. When it runs out of
air, you add some electricity and make more.
 
 
--
A host is a host from coast to coast.................wb8foz@nrk.com
& no one will talk to a host that's close..........................
Unless the host (that isn't close).........................pob 1433
is busy, hung or dead....................................20915-1433
John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Apr 19 08:35PM -0700

> enough. I have come across write only memory DVDs and that's what I
> use my DVD rewinder for.
> Eric
 
WOM is not that rare - the 25120 was designed by Signetics engineer John
G 'Jack' Curtis back in the early 70s and included in their catalog:
 
http://www.repeater-builder.com/molotora/gontor/25120-bw.pdf
 
John ;-#)#
 
--
(Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup)
John's Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9
(604)872-5757 or Fax 872-2010 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
www.flippers.com
"Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."
Heisenberg <Barry@saymyname.com>: Apr 20 01:55PM +1000

>enough. I have come across write only memory DVDs and that's what I
>use my DVD rewinder for.
>Eric
 
I have a camcorder that uses standard beta cassetes.
 
=-=-
"Humans will have advanced a long, long way when religious belief has a cozy
little classification in the DSM*."
David Melville
(*Diagnostic and Statistical Manual of Mental Disorders)
Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Apr 19 09:13PM -0700

On Tue, 19 Apr 2016 20:35:56 -0700, John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>
wrote:
>G 'Jack' Curtis back in the early 70s and included in their catalog:
>http://www.repeater-builder.com/molotora/gontor/25120-bw.pdf
>John ;-#)#
 
I was one of the winners in the applications contest. I later tried
to specify a WOM in a design:
<http://www.sigwom.com/?page_id=57>
<http://ba.internet.narkive.com/Y3r0WXMC/ot-signetics-wom-hey-jeff-liebermann>
 
--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Apr 19 09:45PM -0700


>THEY CAME IN AN ANTI STATIC BAG !
 
Anti-static bags don't work. I put one of my radio designs inside
such a bag and all I heard out of the speaker was the same old static.
 
I like the DVD rewinder, but can't you just insert the CD upside-down
and play it again to rewind it?
 
You really need anti-static bags for protecting clip leads.
Atmospheric electricity increases at the rate of about 30 volts/ft[1].
If you're 6ft tall, there should be 180 volts between your head and
your toes. If you bridge this voltage with one of your new clip
leads, it will surely create a spark. With the typical low quality of
Chinese clip leads, that would probably blow the wire as if it were a
fuse.
 
 
[1] <https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Atmospheric_electricity>
"...the potential, aka 'voltage', increases with altitude at about
30 volts per foot (100 V/m)..."
 
--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 8 updates in 4 topics

Paul in Houston TX <Paul@Houston.Texas>: Apr 28 03:19PM -0500

Max Muller wrote:
> on the fan!
 
> http://i.cubeupload.com/PPtURP.gif
 
> All I'm asking is what are the numbers to look for.
 
Did you even bother to look on Ebay?
"jfeng@my-deja.com" <jfeng@my-deja.com>: Apr 28 02:08PM -0700

First, check to make sure the fan is bad (apply power directly).
 
Most of the expense in the FRU is in all the plumbing and the heat sinks. If you are a cheapskate (like me), and you are kind of mechanically adventurous, you might replace just the fan. Jameco has brand new cooling fans for under $20
http://www.jameco.com/Jameco/catalogs/c161/P84.pdf and it is probably even less if you can find one surplus.
Jasen Betts <jasen@xnet.co.nz>: Apr 29 11:35AM

> the keyboard out, I can see the fan spin for a second, and then
> shut down (I already blew all the dust out).
 
> http://i.cubeupload.com/PPtURP.gif
 
The fan in my T400 gave up and I got a replacement for like $5 on
aliexpress, I should have paid $8 and got the fan-heatsink asembly
as replacing the fan only was tricky, and my repair was imperfect.
looks like your one's a bit more expensive.
 
looks like your fan is $8 but the heatsink assembly is $33
I'd be tempted to try replacing just the fan, and if that fixes the the
problem but goes badly due to a fumble replace the whole thing.
 
The backlight in my T400 gave out shortly after the fan and I fumbled
the inverter card and blew out the controller on the main board so I
just use it as a stationary computer now.
 
--
\_(ツ)_
Mike Tomlinson <mike@jasper.org.uk>: Apr 29 03:21PM +0100

En el artículo <nft2lh$sp3$1@news.mixmin.net>, Max Muller
 
>All I'm asking is what are the numbers to look for.
 
The FRU number (field replaceable unit, IBM-speak for part) is the one
you want.
 
--
(\_/)
(='.'=) Windows 10: less of an OS, more of a drive-by mugging.
(")_(") -- "Esme" on el Reg
N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Apr 29 01:26PM +0100

Got back to this digital problem. The third failed 10uF is on the
"once-reset" / normal switch Q501/502 cct, on reset. Looks as though a
failure of the cap could be interpreted as reset associated with loading
new serial data via pcb pads and sprung probes ,which never arrived,
well beyond anything I'd play with.
There is an associated set of 3 pads for BOOT1 operation, I don't
suppose anyone would know how to reset to normal mode.
I think I'll leave as is, if it ain't actually broke, then don't poke.
It should default to "performance" mode at switch on , but defaults each
time to set up mode, for nullifying any feedback spot frequencies, the
Ferret (TM).
Normally you would press the mode button for 3 seconds to set it in this
mode, then 6 seconds to go to performance.
I think they'll have to press that button 6 seconds each time of use,
although same equipment and venue each time.
"Ian Field" <gangprobing.alien@ntlworld.com>: Apr 28 10:13PM +0100

"bitrex" <bitrex@de.lete.earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:89STy.70619$Xn5.46496@fx39.iad...
> it very hard to desolder the 28-pin chip from the board using an iron and
> solder sucker.
 
> Is there a better way to do this?
 
The type of soldering iron with a rubber bulb solder sucker attachment can
work well, but if you take care to avoid damage from the recoil, a piston
type solder sucker can also work.
 
add flux and make sure all the solder is liquid before activating the
sucker.
 
If at first you don't succeed - remake the joint with fresh cored 60/40
solder and try again.
 
As long as you can shift about 90% of the solder out of the hole; you can
wiggle each pin free with small pointy nose pliers. Sometimes the chip will
almost fall out, but an overlooked sliver of solder can rip a via out as you
pry the chip.
 
Before levering the chip; grip the chip body and flex it in each direction,
this will contribute to freeing stuck pins and also show up the ones that
need another visit from the solder sucker.
Tekkie® <Tekkie@comcast.net>: Apr 28 02:39PM -0400

Danny DiAmico posted for all of us...
 
 
> the water supply up here. After about six months of pumping, the one gray
> well turned out to be crystalline clear (for now), so, that's been fixed.
 
> So, um, yeah. We've been busy in the boonies of Silicon Valley.
 
Glad to hear the gray well water cleaned up. Was the real problem ever
determined?
 
--
Tekkie
"Colonel Edmund J. Burke" <burkesgurlz@t-girls.com>: Apr 28 12:02PM -0700

On 4/24/2016 6:37 PM, Danny DiAmico wrote:
 
> It was bought in 2008 and it gets used about once a week or so (a bit more
> now that we have my sister and her kids living with us).
 
> Any suggestions?
 
Get out and find some rocks by a stream.
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 16 updates in 3 topics

Max Muller <maxmuller@info.gathering>: Apr 28 05:09AM

I have an old W510 with Fan Error and when I power it up with
the keyboard out, I can see the fan spin for a second, and then
shut down (I already blew all the dust out).
 
http://i.cubeupload.com/PPtURP.gif
 
I think I'll replace the fan, but I want to get the right part
number.
 
There are two similar part numbers.
Which is the right part number?
 
FRUNO: 60Y5493 P/N: 60Y4981
 
Where do you get your parts?
What is the correct part number?
Paul in Houston TX <Paul@Houston.Texas>: Apr 28 12:45AM -0500

Max Muller wrote:
 
> FRUNO: 60Y5493 P/N: 60Y4981
 
> Where do you get your parts?
> What is the correct part number?
 
The correct fan and part number depends on which one is in your machine.
It could be either depending on graphics chip.
I get all my Lenovo parts from Ebay.
Go there and compare fan pictures to yours.
Btw, IBM sold their laptop business to Lenovo in 2005.
Max Muller <maxmuller@info.gathering>: Apr 28 01:19PM

Paul in Houston TX wrote:
 
> I get all my Lenovo parts from Ebay.
> Go there and compare fan pictures to yours.
> Btw, IBM sold their laptop business to Lenovo in 2005.
 
That *is* a picture of the numbers printed on the sticker directly
on the fan!
 
http://i.cubeupload.com/PPtURP.gif
 
All I'm asking is what are the numbers to look for.
"jfeng@my-deja.com" <jfeng@my-deja.com>: Apr 28 07:34AM -0700

In IBMspeak, "FRU" usually means "Field Replaceable Unit". So I would interpret that as two part numbers for essentially the same part (maybe the FRU comes with a cardboard box and installation instructions).
 
That said, fans are pretty standard. First, make sure the dimensions are the same (screw hole positions, thickness, etc.). The old one probably has a voltage and current rating listed on the label: try and get one with the same ratings, but slightly more current is probnably OK (better cooling but shorter battery life).
Paul <nospam@needed.com>: Apr 28 10:36AM -0400

Max Muller wrote:
> on the fan!
 
> http://i.cubeupload.com/PPtURP.gif
 
> All I'm asking is what are the numbers to look for.
 
This seller used both numbers in their advertisement.
 
http://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/vb8AAOSwaNBUfX5r/s-l1600.jpg
 
http://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/vgwAAOSwaNBUfX5v/s-l1600.jpg
 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-60Y4981-60Y5493-CPU-Cooling-fan-heatsink-for-IBM-Lenovo-W510-T510-laptop-/151499081693#ht_3462wt_1122
 
FRU stands for Field Replaceable Unit.
P/N stands for Part Number (obviously).
 
One number might be the item you'd see in a
re-assembly diagram. The other number, what
you order it with. If you were ordering from
Lenovo, you'd likely order the P/N, and there
could be additional items in the box like thermal
paste or screws or whatever.
 
They don't normally waste two numbers for nothing.
The numbers form a hierarchy, with one number
being for a larger group of bits and pieces than
the other.
 
The fan label in the picture, says it is a Sunon Maglev.
And apparently doesn't use oil, if I believe what
I'm reading here.
 
http://www.sunon.com/tw/products/pdf/maglev.pdf
 
The hardest part of dealing with some of these
items, where it appears they already have thermal
interface material applied, is what you do with
the plastic covers. In some cases, it's obvious
the plastic is to be peeled off, leaving the
sticky or greasy material underneath exposed.
 
However if the pre-applied material has what looks
like two plastic layers, that could be a thermal pad
impregnated with something, and you wouldn't
take the pad apart. So the fun part, is figuring
out what you're supposed to do when you get it.
I already ruined one item like that, by peeling
off a plastic I wasn't supposed to :-) I repaired
the damage I'd caused, with ordinary thermal interface
material (Arctic Ceramique or similar).
 
This is why Intel put some of its materials in
a hard plastic shell, so that the paste didn't
need a cover (as long as the box it shipped in
wasn't smashed). The plastic shell holding the item,
prevents the paste area from touching anything.
That uses more plastic, to make a shell to cover
the whole item, but it also removes the ambiguity
about what to do with any plastic covering over
the paste itself. There is nothing to remove or
peel off on those.
 
You generally get one usage from the thermal interface
material. Be absolutely sure you know how to install
it, before letting it "touch down". Practice removing
and installing the *old* assembly, so you know how
to put it on, while making the least mess. If you
have to remove the item multiple times, the thermal
interface material could get smeared all over the
place, leaving insufficient material for it to function
properly as a conducting thermal path.
 
There are many different kinds of TIM. There are phase
change materials (which are hard at room temperature).
There are greases, pastes, and dough-like materials.
And each has a best-practice associated with it.
The phase change are the worst, because once the
material is deformed, you can't really put it back
together again, and the stuff is a bitch to scrape off.
They screen-print these materials onto the heatsink,
so you get a precise volume of material.
 
Good luck.
Paul
"Buffalo" <phoney@physco.invalid.net>: Apr 28 09:10AM -0600

"Max Muller" wrote in message news:nfs5tb$2ah$1@news.mixmin.net...
 
>FRUNO: 60Y5493 P/N: 60Y4981
 
>Where do you get your parts?
>What is the correct part number?
 
Not sure what voltage the fan runs at, but you could try to feed temp feed
power to it for a second or two to see if it is the fan that is bad or the
power to it, since that unit is fairly expensive.
Disconnect and reconnect the fan connector several times to make sure the
connection is good. Doing so, burnishes the contacts some to help ensure a
better connection.
 
--
Buffalo
DaveC <not@home.cow>: Apr 27 11:14AM -0700

Jon Elson wrote:
 
> Usually I take 1-2 full seconds of vacuum while
> swirling the tip, this gets ALL the solder out of the plated through hole.
 
Any air flow (vacuum) after the initial sucking is a waste. The molten solder
is sucked away and the continuing air cools the area and... no more molten
solder.
 
The idea is to heat, heat, heat (as much as you determine is safe) and hit
the vacuum once. Repeat the whole process if required. If it is required,
usually longer heating period or higher heat is necessary.
DaveC <not@home.cow>: Apr 27 11:16AM -0700

jeanyves wrote:
 
> then use the soldier sucker, one pin at a time and it will come off
> (except if it's a multi layer board there you really need a desoldering
> station)
 
Yes I've found sometimes soldering a joint with fresh solder before
de-soldering it makes the process easier.
Kind of a mystery why (except if the original is lead-free solder--we all
know about that...)
Ralph Mowery <rmowery28146@earthlink.net>: Apr 27 02:34PM -0400

In article <0001HW.1CD1398F000676B111DD733CF@news.eternal-
september.org>, not@home.cow says...
> de-soldering it makes the process easier.
> Kind of a mystery why (except if the original is lead-free solder--we all
> know about that...)
 
I just started playing with the surface mounted devices about 3 weeks
ago after working with the older types for about 50 years. Just glad
the old computer boards I have been practicing on must have had the
lead solder on them. They seemed easy to work with.
 
Then I got an old mother board that must have the lead free stuff on it.
Using the hot air gun was not difficult to get the old part off. When
I tried to clean up the pads the device was on with some solder wick
with the old setting of the soldering iron about all I got done was to
stick the braid to the pads. Cranked up the heat on the iron and still
not much luck. Finally heated the area with the hot air gun then used
the braid and iron and that worked much beter.
 
Any other good hints on workig with the lead free solder other than
preheating the board ? Even putting some tin/lead solder on the pads
don't seem to help.
Jon Elson <jmelson@wustl.edu>: Apr 27 01:53PM -0500

DaveC wrote:
 
 
> The idea is to heat, heat, heat (as much as you determine is safe) and hit
> the vacuum once. Repeat the whole process if required. If it is required,
> usually longer heating period or higher heat is necessary.
The vacuum has to last long enough to remove ALL the solder in one go. If
it doesn't, the tiny remaining bits of solder don't conduct heat to the far
end of the pin. With the hollow copper desoldering tip on the joint, it
does NOT cool off, in the second or two it takes to pull all the solder out.
 
I wish you could see this Pace unit work, it is totally amazing! I fairly
routinely desolder some 68-pin connectors, and they just fall off the board
when you are done.
 
Jon
N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Apr 27 09:20PM +0100

On 27/04/2016 19:34, Ralph Mowery wrote:
 
> Any other good hints on workig with the lead free solder other than
> preheating the board ? Even putting some tin/lead solder on the pads
> don't seem to help.
 
You have to overload each PbF joint with PbSn solder, the result is not
supposed to be pretty or pass QC, doubling the blob size at least,
to have good effect at reducing the required tempearature to desolder them
jurb6006@gmail.com: Apr 27 04:51PM -0700

> You have to overload each PbF joint with PbSn solder, the result is not
> supposed to be pretty or pass QC, doubling the blob size at least,
> to have good effect at reducing the required tempearature to desolder them
 
Yeah but on plated through holes that might result in a bog blob on the top of the board, which will be harder to heat up and suck out. You really need to heat the shit out of it to mix ALL the solder. And that is what creates this risk.
Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Apr 27 07:14PM -0700

On Tue, 26 Apr 2016 22:39:36 -0500, Jon Elson <elson@pico-systems.com>
wrote:
 
 
>I have a Pace machine with a vacuum pump in it, and a hollow soldering tip.
>It does an amazing job of desoldering parts even from multi-layer boards
>with heavy copper planes.
 
Agreed. I have and use an old Pace:
<http://802.11junk.com/jeffl/crud/pace-desoldering-station.jpg>
Note the gas brazing tip cleaning tool. You'll need it. There's a
glass tube inside the handle which also needs to be cleaned. The
vacuum inline filter also tends to get clogged every few years and
will need to be replaced. However, an automobile fuel pump filter
also works.
 
Pace desoldering stuff on eBay:
<http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=pace+desoldering>
 
>swirling the tip, this gets ALL the solder out of the plated through hole.
 
>When you do this, the swirling of the desoldering tip wiggles the end of the
>component lead, making sure all the solder in the hole is extracted.
 
Yeah, that works but I do it a bit differently. I "swirl" the tip
around to get the last bits of solder, but I don't try to clean the
hole at this point. Once the part is removed, I either make another
pass with the vacuum pump, or I clean up the mess with an ordinary
soldering iron and a mechanical solder sucker. The problem is that if
I use too much vacuum, the solder gets cold, turns to dross, and is
then difficult to reflow or remove.
 
>This works about 10 X better than the desoldering suckers, or even the
>hollow-tip irons that have the vacuum plunger built into the iron.
 
I have several soldering irons with hollow tips and either a bulb or
mechanical vacuum solder sucker attached. They were a waste of time
and money. The Pace vacuum desoldering station works the best.
 
--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
isw <isw@witzend.com>: Apr 27 10:51PM -0700

In article <89STy.70619$Xn5.46496@fx39.iad>,
> finding it very hard to desolder the 28-pin chip from the board using an
> iron and solder sucker.
 
> Is there a better way to do this?
 
Go ahead and cut the pins, but as close to the board as possible. Then
solder the "amputee" to a 28-pin header. You stand a far smaller chance
of damaging it that way, than if you try to get all the legs out at
once. Also much less chance of ripping the plating out of any of the
holes.
 
Isaac
Zak W <ZakW@gmail9.com>: Apr 27 05:58PM

Danny DiAmico <dannydiamico@yahoo.com> wrote in
 
> Subject: Re: Advice requested Whirlpool Duet Sport Washing Machine
> "popped" From: Danny DiAmico <dannydiamico@yahoo.com>
> Newsgroups: alt.home.repair,sci.electronics.repair
 
Well Danny D, there you be. Long time no see. You still living up in the
hills outside Sacramento or or San Jose or wherever? Did you ever get your
water storage problem worked out?
Danny DiAmico <dannydiamico@yahoo.com>: Apr 27 06:38PM

On Wed, 27 Apr 2016 17:58:56 +0000, Zak W wrote:
 
> Well Danny D, there you be. Long time no see. You still living up in the
> hills outside Sacramento or or San Jose or wherever? Did you ever get your
> water storage problem worked out?
 
Yea, we formed a neighbourhood committee to inspect and periodically check on
the water supply up here. After about six months of pumping, the one gray
well turned out to be crystalline clear (for now), so, that's been fixed.
 
Meanwhile, we formed a mesh Internet network, and we cleaned entire hillsides
of poison oak (see picture I just posted below from that last endeavor):
http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/11917454/img/11917454.jpg
 
We cleaned up the hillside of old washing machines and tires too!
 
And, you should see many thousands of Scotch Broom we pulled out after
the last good drenching (the tap roots only come out when the ground
is literally soaked).
 
So, um, yeah. We've been busy in the boonies of Silicon Valley.
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 19 updates in 4 topics

N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Apr 26 04:40PM +0100

So it is 2 wires per tube and 4 tubes, not 2 , it seems.
Tried 2 CFL tubes on the monitored side and both light for 1 second.
So I can leave one CFL in there and use the other supply to test each TV
tube plugged-in in turn, surely 4 could not have failed at once, for 1
second.
N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Apr 27 12:41PM +0100

Tested each tube and number 4 will not work.
Perhaps dodgey connection of one of the other pair, but now the original
pair of 2 tubes at the top work for 1 second.
Cleaning pcb around HV areas and resoldering HV and monitoring solder
points , still 1 second only.
What sort of compact load to represent the duff tube? a few neon bulbs
in series perhaps.
I don't understand the monitoring as connects to midway point of 2 tubes
and no meggy resistors around, just 10s of K.
One SMD diode marked A2 is used elsewhere in the LV circuitry, as is
transtor marked 3FW. 2 perfectly normal pitch spacing SO23 Q marked 7.AJ
or 7AJ are not repeated elsewhere but not obviously HV
N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Apr 27 12:43PM +0100

7AJ are 3 pin diodes, D on the overlay
N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Apr 27 02:50PM +0100

On 27/04/2016 12:43, N_Cook wrote:
> 7AJ are 3 pin diodes, D on the overlay
 
not 7AJ but A7J
I "replaced" the duff tube with 3 neons in series on the ps, and the
display and backlighting and DVD play works fine. So looks like the
unmonitored side needed a load also to bring the monitoring into valid
envelope. I have to admit its not obvious which area of the screen is
lacking light, needs wrapping up properly and a normal viewing position
perhaps. Would there be 2 long tubes top and bottom and 2 short along
the sides or 2 short each along top and bottom, I've not ventured fully
inside.
The neons run at 24 deg C over ambient, so perhaps 5 or 6 would be
better if more than a temporary fudge.
Going the other way would a CFL lamp make a TV/laptop backlight exerciser?
10 ohms between pins 1 and 2 and another 10R between pins 3 and 4 and
then the tube across 1&4 or 2&3.
N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Apr 27 04:28PM +0100

Have a small collection of thin tube flourescents from
fax/scanner/laptops of unknown states.
I know at least one is green but I did not label as such, so made an
exerciser for 2 wire tubes , from the CFL board.
Tubes between pins 2 and 3.
2x 10R,.5w soon blew , 2x 0.33R,2W in positions 1 to 2 and 3 to 4
, probably too far the other way, but allowed to run each of them for a
few seconds to check for colour and non-evenness or strobing.
bitrex <bitrex@de.lete.earthlink.net>: Apr 26 06:42PM -0400

I have a piece of equipment that has a ROM chip in it which I'd like to
upgrade to a newer firmware revision.
 
I don't want to destroy the old EPROM by cutting the pins, but I'm
finding it very hard to desolder the 28-pin chip from the board using an
iron and solder sucker.
 
Is there a better way to do this?
jurb6006@gmail.com: Apr 26 04:28PM -0700

Chemwick. Not as good on two sided plated through holes but usually works well enough.
 
You mean a desoldering bulb ? Those aren't that good. For plated through, something like a Hakko 808 works well. On lead free, you have to turn the heat all the way up. Also, when you see it melt, do not push the vacuum button tight away or else you will have an air pocket in there and solder at the top where you cant get a good thermal connection to it.
 
In any case, if it is lead free the first thing to do is to add some 83/37 to the connection.
jurb6006@gmail.com: Apr 26 04:31PM -0700

Not tight away, right away.
 
And of course that is 63/37, not 83/37.
 
Half blind, can't type.
dansabrservices@yahoo.com: Apr 26 06:25PM -0700

> Not tight away, right away.
 
> And of course that is 63/37, not 83/37.
 
> Half blind, can't type.
 
Whle it is usually used to remove SMD components, Chip-Quik might be helpful here. Remove as much solder using solder-wik as you can, then apply the Chip-Quik. This with a little heat should allow for easy removal.
 
Dan
Jon Elson <elson@pico-systems.com>: Apr 26 10:39PM -0500

bitrex wrote:
 
> finding it very hard to desolder the 28-pin chip from the board using an
> iron and solder sucker.
 
> Is there a better way to do this?
I have a Pace machine with a vacuum pump in it, and a hollow soldering tip.
It does an amazing job of desoldering parts even from multi-layer boards
with heavy copper planes. Generally, after using it, the parts just fall
free of the board. The trick is you heat the joint for about 6 seconds,
then "swirl" the tip around the hole once, and then keep swirling while you
hit the vacuum pedal. The vacuum pump can pump for a lot longer than the
plunger-type solder sucker. Usually I take 1-2 full seconds of vacuum while
swirling the tip, this gets ALL the solder out of the plated through hole.
 
When you do this, the swirling of the desoldering tip wiggles the end of the
component lead, making sure all the solder in the hole is extracted.
 
This works about 10 X better than the desoldering suckers, or even the
hollow-tip irons that have the vacuum plunger built into the iron.
 
Jon
jeanyves <jeanyves@nowhere.com>: Apr 27 08:53AM +0200

On 2016-04-26 22:42:12 +0000, bitrex said:
 
> finding it very hard to desolder the 28-pin chip from the board using
> an iron and solder sucker.
 
> Is there a better way to do this?
 
desoldering stations are great, but expensive...
I have one now but I had a soldier sucker before, and managed to
desoldier such circuits with quite success.
you must first re-soldier the circuit, with fresh leaded soldier
then use the soldier sucker, one pin at a time and it will come off
(except if it's a multi layer board there you really need a desoldering
station)
 
practice on another board you can destroy if needed.
good luck
--
 
Jean-Yves.
N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Apr 27 07:54AM +0100

On 26/04/2016 23:42, bitrex wrote:
> finding it very hard to desolder the 28-pin chip from the board using an
> iron and solder sucker.
 
> Is there a better way to do this?
 
You have to practise the following on a scrap board , before going for
it proper.
Retouch solder on each pin, mask off surrounding areas with a "frustrum"
made of PTFE slabs, tied together and tied to the pcb.
Blast the chip with freezer spray and then blast solder side with hot
air gun on full blast, ie as short as possible, while pulling the chip
from the other side with bent large circlip pliers, holding the board in
a vice while doing all this.
Danny DiAmico <dannydiamico@yahoo.com>: Apr 26 04:03PM

On Tue, 26 Apr 2016 14:56:42 +0100, MJC wrote:
 
> The recipe I used (and the only one I've heard of) uses ammonia as a
> source of nitrogen, not acid.
 
I could be remembering it wrong as it was a few decades ago.
It was chem lab, so, there was everything available.
 
We may have used the nitric acid with the cotton balls ...
"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Apr 26 09:59AM -0700

On Tuesday, April 26, 2016 at 12:03:54 PM UTC-4, Danny DiAmico wrote:
 
> I could be remembering it wrong as it was a few decades ago.
> It was chem lab, so, there was everything available.
 
> We may have used the nitric acid with the cotton balls ...
 
Nitric acid, but glacial sulphuric acid as well to pull out the water formed as a byproduct. The making of nitrocellulose (gun cotton) is more dangerous than the using of it, for the most part.
 
Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
Jon Elson <jmelson@wustl.edu>: Apr 26 02:56PM -0500

Danny DiAmico wrote:
 
 
 
> The ground straps seem to have good contact, so, I think it's
> the MMU or the CCU but I don't know yet what to do next.
> http://u33i.imgup.net/groundstraebd1.gif
Since the CCU is powered up and communicating with the buttons and
indicators, it is likely OK. Since there was a big POP, and the CCU can't
communicate with the MCU, which is where all the big power circuitry is, it
seems REALLY likely something in the MCU popped. When you get it out, I
think you are likely to find visible damage.
 
Jon
Danny DiAmico <dannydiamico@yahoo.com>: Apr 27 12:47AM

On Tue, 26 Apr 2016 14:56:09 -0500, Jon Elson wrote:
 
> communicate with the MCU, which is where all the big power circuitry is, it
> seems REALLY likely something in the MCU popped. When you get it out, I
> think you are likely to find visible damage.
 
Thank you for that advice.
 
I'm kind of stuck like a deer in the headlights at this point because
I have to diagnose if it's the CCU or the MCU (or the power rectifier).
 
I'm kind of at a loss for diagnostic procedures because the diagnostic
test described in the manual didn't kick in.
Jon Elson <elson@pico-systems.com>: Apr 26 10:42PM -0500

Danny DiAmico wrote:
 
> I have to diagnose if it's the CCU or the MCU (or the power rectifier).
 
> I'm kind of at a loss for diagnostic procedures because the diagnostic
> test described in the manual didn't kick in.
Just pull the MCU and examine it closely. If you can't find anything
burned, then it gets harder. But, if there was a loud POP, I think you WILL
find visible damage. It is possible that there is a fuse on that board, and
the failure of the fuse under hard short conditions made the noise. So, Ohm
out any fuses you find.
 
Jon
johnanita1950@gmail.com: Apr 26 11:50AM -0700

On Wednesday, 5 August 2009 17:13:23 UTC-7, Bill Horne wrote:
ok1wire <johnanita1950@gmail.com>: Apr 26 11:57AM -0700

Thanks for the tip. Pulling the control arms solved the mystery. Sharp directions for installation gave no clue for removal.
 
I found it helpful to remove the stove first. That made it easier to support the microwave for removal.
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 25 updates in 10 topics

N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Apr 26 08:14AM +0100

On 26/04/2016 00:26, Michael Black wrote:
> seem to recall trying the thing with alkaline AAs, and it was easier to
> close that cover.
 
> Michael
 
The closers are Dzus Camlock. Perhaps deliberately undersized bores so
as to lock you in to buying Garmin undersize AA batteries.
If you are forcing home the closer , then you will have the same problem
of the lower cells jammed in the bore. As the moulding around the bores
is highly asymetric, perhaps the plastic releives over time and bends,
anyway my "reaming" has done the trick, crude but effective, GPS still
works BTW
MJC <gravity@mjcoon.plus.com>: Apr 26 02:54PM +0100

In article <nfn49d$k6d$1@dont-email.me>, diverse@tcp.co.uk says...
 
> anyway my "reaming" has done the trick, crude but effective, GPS still
> works BTW
 
You're lucky! My admittedly old (1997) Garmin GPS-II+ screen became
totally unreadable (though the rest of it worked) years ago.
 
Mike.
N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Apr 26 03:00PM +0100

On 26/04/2016 14:54, MJC wrote:
 
> You're lucky! My admittedly old (1997) Garmin GPS-II+ screen became
> totally unreadable (though the rest of it worked) years ago.
 
> Mike.
 
This is a GPS 12
Charles Bishop <ctbishop@earthlink.net>: Apr 25 09:53PM -0700

In article <nflbgj$d2d$1@news.mixmin.net>,
> physics class and then waiting for some unsuspecting student to turn
> the lights on in the Physics lab - and I don't remember any smell at
> that time.
 
Why were the outlets and the lights on the same circuit?
 
We had power strips on the work benches that were turned on when you
came in to work in the morning. It would have worked ther.
 
 
--
charles
Danny DiAmico <dannydiamico@yahoo.com>: Apr 26 09:40AM

On Mon, 25 Apr 2016 21:53:48 -0700, Charles Bishop wrote:
 
> Why were the outlets and the lights on the same circuit?
 
I don't remember if it was one switch or two.
I remember that the switch was just inside the doorway to the lab.
So, it was usually turned on by the first person who entered the lab.
 
The lab itself had these long countertops down the length of the lab.
At about eye level were the outlets.
The caps we stuck in the outlets and I "do" remember the labs being
dark when nobody was in there (even then, we were aware someone could
be hurt but we didn't worry about it because we associated the darkness
with nobody being in there). < yes, we were kids >
Danny DiAmico <dannydiamico@yahoo.com>: Apr 26 09:45AM

On Tue, 26 Apr 2016 09:40:42 +0000, Danny DiAmico wrote:
 
> dark when nobody was in there (even then, we were aware someone could
> be hurt but we didn't worry about it because we associated the darkness
> with nobody being in there). < yes, we were kids >
 
PS: Don't remind me the time we took nitric acid, as I recall, and
poured it into beakers containing iodine crystals and then dried it with
either ether or alcohol (as I recall) and then painted anything we wanted
e.g., the chemistry lab countertops, with the wet (stable) nitrogen
tri-iodide paste.
 
When that stuff dries, it's so unstable, even a fly landing on it
will cause it to explode (little purple cloud bursts sporadically
popping all over the place!).
 
< yes, we were kids once >
MJC <gravity@mjcoon.plus.com>: Apr 26 02:56PM +0100

In article <nfndb5$nut$2@news.mixmin.net>, dannydiamico@yahoo.com
says...
> either ether or alcohol (as I recall) and then painted anything we wanted
> e.g., the chemistry lab countertops, with the wet (stable) nitrogen
> tri-iodide paste.
 
The recipe I used (and the only one I've heard of) uses ammonia as a
source of nitrogen, not acid.
 
Mike.
N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Apr 26 02:26PM +0100

I've some tubular ceramic caps, 1p8 unknown voltage, scraped back the
covering and 2.4mm electrode separation , so perhaps 3KV or so.
Tried 2 of those on each secondary and no change
 
2 extenders underneath, so I tried swapping tubes over , no change.
Wired in the tube of a CFL onto the plain unmonitored side of the Tx, no
glow. Removed it and fitted it on the monitored side and 6 seconds after
standby to on, 1 second maintained burst of lamp light. I could repeat
this procedure but only ever 1 second , presumably before the monitoring
decides there is an internal tube short or something.
These CFL tubes have about 10R heaters? either end, but nothing <30 Meg,
over the 4 ends of the original tubes.
So assuming the burried tail connections are ok and the tubes are not
physically broken , what can go wrong with these TV backlight
flourescent tubes, and both of them?
What if any ohmage across the pairs of wires at each end would I expect?
avagadro7@gmail.com: Apr 26 04:51AM -0700

AE6KS
 
following reduce max charge n allow depletion before recharging advice....
 
 
Ctek's and Optimas are mated...there's an Optima icon on the Ctek.
 
'Instead, there was a tiny drop in voltage just before the
battery reached full charge. The smart charger chip would detect this
drop in voltage and declare the battery to have been successfully
charged.'
 
there is advice on NOT charging gel acids to max as max discharges gases ie depletes batt capacity n longevity. no odor detected.
 
Ctek's connection seems to declare the batt charged
 
as switching into SUPPLY after CHARGED produces substantially more running time than CHARGE ...poss 30% more..poss age related
 
8 year batts used for laptop/emergency auto start/small Holmes hospital clamp fan. Never depleted under 12V
 
The Odyssey batt connected to truck was good at 5 years but not new. The new one immediately improved ignition quality b a small fraction
"Ian Field" <gangprobing.alien@ntlworld.com>: Apr 22 09:03PM +0100

My MSI945GZM motherboard is getting flaky, the only other MOBO I have is a
MSI MS7204 (945P).
 
The GZM has a normal CPU cooler - the 945P has a huge cooler with copper
pipes running through a big stack of fins. That cooler overhangs the edge of
the board and won't fit a case that has drive bays.
 
Is there an information resource that deals with which coolers can be used
with what boards/CPUs?
 
Thanks.
Jim Whitby <mr.spock@spockmail.net>: Apr 20 08:14PM

On Tue, 19 Apr 2016 21:13:02 -0700, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
 
> specify a WOM in a design:
> <http://www.sigwom.com/?page_id=57>
> <http://ba.internet.narkive.com/Y3r0WXMC/ot-signetics-wom-hey-jeff-
liebermann>
 
Seems to be some smart people here. I need to learn how to empty the /dev/
null device.
 
I have lots of scripts that that write to it and I suspect it needs
emptied.
 
Any help?
Sjouke Burry <burrynulnulfour@ppllaanneett.nnll>: Apr 21 02:05AM +0200

On 20.04.16 23:52, Ralph Mowery wrote:
> way and brass and maybe some other materials affect it the other way.
 
> Could someone have say a knife with a steel blade and an matching amount
> of brass go through the detector with out setting it off ?
 
By all means try it, we are all in for a belly laugh.
Heisenberg <Barry@saymyname.com>: Apr 21 06:35AM +1000

On Wed, 20 Apr 2016 03:56:16 -0700 (PDT), thekmanrocks@gmail.com
wrote:
 
>no status on the screen, no sounds from
>the CD/DVD disc DRIVE, eject - blank label.
>Never bothered with it again.
 
I only tried it once and the result was not worthwhile.
 
=-=-
"Humans will have advanced a long, long way when religious belief has a cozy
little classification in the DSM*."
David Melville
(*Diagnostic and Statistical Manual of Mental Disorders)
"Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terrell@earthlink.net>: Apr 20 09:44PM -0400


> > I want to call that company and ask if they have any DVD rewinders in stock.
 
> I'm forever stepping on the ones that fall off the bench unnoticed, and they flatten almost completely (and I'm not overweight). Years ago, clip leads were heavy stamped steel or copper and much more durable. If you ever run across a source for these let me know.
 
> How fast is the DVD rewinder?
 
 
Here are 100 of the small alligator clips with red insulators for
$13. You can repair the damaged ones, or make your own.
 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/321175159335
 
Disposable-Red-Plastic-Covered-35mm-Metal-Alligator-Clips-100-Pcs-/
 
 
They have others at reasonable prices, as well.
 
<http://stores.ebay.com/22newcentury/_i.html?_nkw=100+alligator+clip&submit=Search&LH_TitleDesc=1&_sid=340637155>
 
---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
etpm@whidbey.com: Apr 21 09:10AM -0700

On Wed, 20 Apr 2016 17:52:05 -0400, Ralph Mowery
>way and brass and maybe some other materials affect it the other way.
 
>Could someone have say a knife with a steel blade and an matching amount
>of brass go through the detector with out setting it off ?
 
I don't know if your scheme would work but I do know that airport
metal detectors have some way to discriminate between a key in my
wallet and all the titanium and stainless steel in my arms, back, and
pelvis. I used to set the things off but not any more. I have spoken
with folks who have long pins in their legs, artificial knees, and
artificial hips and they don't set off the airport metal detectors
either.
Eric
John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Apr 21 08:17AM -0700

On 04/20/2016 2:52 PM, Ralph Mowery wrote:
 
> Could someone have say a knife with a steel blade and an matching amount
> of brass go through the detector with out setting it off ?
 
If you recall the movie "The Graduate" there is just one word from the
cocktail party scene that answers your point.
 
John :-#(#
 
--
(Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup)
John's Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9
(604)872-5757 or Fax 872-2010 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
www.flippers.com
"Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."
John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Apr 21 07:40PM -0700

On 04/21/2016 10:31 AM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
> <https://www.tindie.com/products/upgradeindustries/10x-spear-tip-spring-loaded-pogo-test-pin-p160-b-/>
 
> Flexible plastic hose:
> <https://www.google.com/search?tbm=isch&q=machinery+coolant+hose>
 
I'd enjoy seeing pictures of your test bench setup with those pogo pins.
Near as I can figure you use those semi-stiff hoses to hold the pins on
the UUT (unit under test). For me, not su useful as I am mostly fixing
TTL stuff (not many folks still do that), but I can see it being very
useful on SMT products.
 
John :-#)#
 
--
(Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup)
John's Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9
(604)872-5757 or Fax 872-2010 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
www.flippers.com
"Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."
Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Apr 21 11:18AM -0700

On Thu, 21 Apr 2016 10:31:46 -0700, Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>
wrote:
 
>Spring loaded test probe/pin:
><https://www.tindie.com/products/upgradeindustries/10x-spear-tip-spring-loaded-pogo-test-pin-p160-b-/>
 
More... The magic buzzword is "pogo pin":
<https://www.google.com/search?q=pogo+pin&tbm=isch>
<http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=pogo+pin>
Note that there are also receptacles (sockets) for the pins, to make
them easy to replace:
<https://www.google.com/search?tbm=isch&q=pogo+pin+receptacle>
Lots of different sizes and tip types.
 
Once you get into using these pins, you'll find yourself addicted.
 
 
 
--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Apr 21 02:44PM -0700

On Fri, 22 Apr 2016 05:35:02 +1000, Heisenberg <Barry@saymyname.com>
wrote:
 
>>Lots of different sizes and tip types.
 
>>Once you get into using these pins, you'll find yourself addicted.
 
>Are you familiar with IDS and wirewrap?
 
Insulation Displacement Something. Yep, been there with every ribbon
cable connector. I even have the proper IDS compression tools for
most of the connectors used in PC's.
 
Wire Wrap. Yep, I still have my spools of #30 wire, which I now use
for soldering breadboards. I still have my manual tools as I sold my
battery operated wire wrap gun.
 
Now, are you familiar with my policy of ignoring one line questions?
The problem is that one line questions usually lack any content,
value, understand, detail, and are generally not worth reading. Since
your nom de plume implies uncertainty, I'll make an exception this
time.
 
--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Apr 22 06:39PM -0700

On Wed, 20 Apr 2016 03:56:16 -0700 (PDT), thekmanrocks@gmail.com
wrote:
 
>You actually got that "Lightscribe" thing
>to work??
 
Not me. I tried it a few times and gave up. It takes forever,
produces ugly looking monochrome CD labels, requires special expensive
media, and seems to use buggy HP software:
<http://hubpages.com/technology/lightscribe>
No thanks. An inkjet CD printer works better.
<https://printinginnovations.cusa.canon.com/pixma/cd_dvd_printing>
However, if it ever can be made to work in color or obtain better mono
contrast, I might try again.
 
 
--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
Cursitor Doom <curd@notformail.com>: Apr 22 08:11AM

Hi,
 
I've noticed a high failure rate in appliances built-in mains filters.
These are the filters that are typically found at the point the power
lead enters the appliance. They're silver coloured things about the size
of a matchbox and they tend to fail short and blow the fuse. The ones
I've seen are usually rated for 1A since the only stuff I do is low
power. However, some of that low power stuff is test equipment with SMPSs
that initially look like a short circuit at power-on. I think this is
what blows those filters. Early SMPS designs didn't seem to pay much
attention to surge prevention so I'm wondering if it would pay to
retrospectively fit MOVs at the beginning of the SMPS section to prolong
filter and power supply life (hopefully).
Any thoughts on the advisability of doing this and which MOVs are best
suited to this purpose?
Thanks.
 
CD.
N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Apr 20 02:14PM +0100

Via chinese whispers I had got the diagnosis of a problem with the
"forward processor" whatever that meant.
Going by the ribbon damage to the digital board, perhaps it means
problem with the Feedback Ferret (TM) falsely detecting feedback and
inserting attenuation. I wonder if its possible to bypass/defeat that,
if proves to be the problem
N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Apr 21 10:44AM +0100

Still cold exploration. 3 bad ESR SMD 10Uf 16V caps, marked
 
10
16S
014
 
on the digital board, one each on the Vcom pin of the ferret codec and
the FX codec and another elsewhere, so could be injecting HF into the
codecs. All other such caps ESR good
Anyway hot testing next with Tx,Prea,PA spread-eagled across the bench.
Chuck <chuck@mydeja.net>: Apr 20 10:08AM -0500

On Tue, 19 Apr 2016 10:14:07 -0700 (PDT), thekmanrocks@gmail.com
wrote:
 
>Chuck:
 
>Thanks for sharing! It's even got
>a turntable.
 
 
Also 2 tonearms so the record didn't need to be flipped.
 
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etpm@whidbey.com: Apr 25 10:22AM -0700

On Mon, 25 Apr 2016 06:24:23 -0700 (PDT), thekmanrocks@gmail.com
wrote:
 
>DaveC:
 
>I will never for as long as i live allow "apps"
>to control anything in my house!
Hear! Hear! I look at devices for the IoT and how your home can be
controlled while you are away, and how the doors unlock when you are
close enough and so on an then I think about how easy stuff is to
hack.
Eric
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