Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 12 updates in 2 topics

Ken Layton <KLayton888@aol.com>: Jan 30 09:29AM -0800

Yes, Antique Electronic Supply still makes fresh stock "twist prong" can style (a.k.a. Mallory "FP" type).
 
https://www.tubesandmore.com/products/capacitors?filters=Type%3DMulti-Section%20/%20Can%20Type
 
They also make the multi-section "under-the-chassis" (the ones that look like a giant firecracker) types:
 
https://www.tubesandmore.com/products/capacitors?filters=Type%3DMulti-Section%20/%20Firecracker
 
This guy also sells new twist prong cans:
 
https://hayseedhamfest.com/
"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Jan 30 10:34AM -0800

Ken:
 
I can thing of half-a-dozen makers off-hand still active. I linked only the most broadly based with whom I have had direct experience. I guess these vendors are not available in to the hinterlands.
 
Dealing with Phil is much like nailing Jello - a not very rewarding endeavor.
 
But, while we are at it - and refuting Phil's "50-year old" crap:
 
https://www.cedist.com/products/capacitors?filters=Type%3DMulti-Section%20/%20Can%20Type
 
https://www.die-wuestens.de/dindex.htm?/k8.htm
 
http://www.jj-electronic.com/en/capacitors
 
These are only the most obvious with an international presence. I know of two cottage industry makers who do perhaps 30 or 40 per year as-needed for their customers. they want the old can as "trade", so I expect they actually restuff - but the results are visibly indistinguishable 'from new' right down to stamped cardboard covers - if that was OEM - but with their brand in place.
 
Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
Ken Layton <KLayton888@aol.com>: Jan 30 10:54AM -0800

I've done the "re-stuffing" thing myself a few times. It's a hassle and a couple of times the new capacitors I put into the can failed within a week (exploded inside the can). So I had to take them all apart again. Found out the replacement caps were counterfeits! Some were Jacques Ebert and some were Nichicon. All were purchased from my local electronics parts supplier.
"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Jan 30 11:05AM -0800

On Monday, January 30, 2017 at 1:54:28 PM UTC-5, Ken Layton wrote:
> I've done the "re-stuffing" thing myself a few times. It's a hassle and a couple of times the new capacitors I put into the can failed within a week (exploded inside the can). So I had to take them all apart again. Found out the replacement caps were counterfeits! Some were Jacques Ebert and some were Nichicon. All were purchased from my local electronics parts supplier.
 
THAT is a serious and increasing problem. Caps in general, and electrolytics specifically, have reached the point of diminishing returns for manufacturers as most buyers simply don't care what they are getting. So the OEM manufacturer with a conscience is also competing with the Chinese and Indian back-alley operations.
 
I try to purchase from legitimate suppliers such as Mouser or Newark and I try to purchase 105C. rated caps for those 'stuffing' and 'tube-audio' purposes where temperatures are significant. For the hobbyist, the relative cost of parts in onesie/twosie is insignificant. For a manufacturer purchasing in the thousands, it might be. If I pay $5 for a cap vs. $0.99, it is often worth it to get the right part for the job and no 'go-back-later' crap.
 
I have the same attitude towards tools.
 
https://www.amazon.com/Channellock-349-Premium-Wiremaster-Linesman/dp/B00004SBD5
 
http://www.globalindustrial.com/p/tools/tool-storage/tool-kits-sets/9-inch-linesman-pliers?infoParam.campaignId=T9F&gclid=Cj0KEQiA5bvEBRCM6vypnc7QgMkBEiQAUZftQFhb4CxGBULGj1Y3woE-4BybtLSl12XcNv9npUFrZWsaAnMo8P8HAQ
 
Channellock.
 
Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
ohger1s@gmail.com: Jan 30 12:17PM -0800

> On Monday, January 30, 2017 at 1:54:28 PM UTC-5, Ken Layton wrote:
> > I've done the "re-stuffing" thing myself a few times. It's a hassle and a couple of times the new capacitors I put into the can failed within a week (exploded inside the can). So I had to take them all apart again. Found out the replacement caps were counterfeits! Some were Jacques Ebert and some were Nichicon. All were purchased from my local electronics parts supplier.
 
> THAT is a serious and increasing problem. Caps in general, and electrolytics specifically, have reached the point of diminishing returns for manufacturers as most buyers simply don't care what they are getting. So the OEM manufacturer with a conscience is also competing with the Chinese and Indian back-alley operations.
 
I generally only buy Panasonic (like the EE or FR) from DigiKey. I'm sure Mouser and others supply them. I may be the only person on the planet who thinks Panasonic electros are the best in the world but that's what I buy for tough applications. Never had a problem and never saw one fail even after many years.
Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Jan 30 08:01PM -0800

Ken Layton wrote:
 
> Yes, Antique Electronic Supply still makes fresh stock "twist prong"
> can style (a.k.a. Mallory "FP" type).
 
** They do not make any such thing.
 
The Mallory FP types are USA made examples from 50+ years ago - with a shiny label applied. I have seen them with all sections open circuit.
 
I pulled one apart and found the internals totally dried out - as one would expect.
 
You have not seen one at all.
 
 
.... Phil
Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Jan 30 08:05PM -0800


> Dealing with Phil is much like nailing Jello
 
** Dealing with retarded idiots make me wanna puke.
 
 
 
> But, while we are at it - and refuting Phil's "50-year old" crap:
 
> https://www.cedist.com/products/capacitors?filters=Type%3DMulti-Section%20/%20Can%20Type
 
 
** How the hell does that *refute* anything ?
 
It doesn't.

 
 
.... Phil
"Ron D." <Ron.Dozier@gmail.com>: Jan 30 10:20PM -0800

This https://antiqueradio.org/recap.htm page should be useful. The perfectionists either stuff them or use the old ones for show and hide the new ones. Almost the same effect. I thin, I remember where the cap is cut cleanly and then essentially the lid taped on.
oldschool@tubes.com: Jan 31 12:36AM -0600

On Mon, 30 Jan 2017 10:54:22 -0800 (PST), Ken Layton
>the can). So I had to take them all apart again. Found out the replacement caps
>were counterfeits! Some were Jacques Ebert and some were Nichicon. All were
>purchased from my local electronics parts supplier.
 
Could this be caused by a heat buildup inside the can?
At least the can protected you when they exploded though.
 
I dont know why it is, that the old caps used in tube equipment seemed
to last many years, sometimes 50 years or more, but today they fail in
only a few years. Seems a lot of computer boards have this problem
regularly. I would think that we would have better materials to make
them these days, than when they were just made from tin foil, paper and
wax, but it seems those old ones were far better.
oldschool@tubes.com: Jan 31 12:36AM -0600

On Mon, 30 Jan 2017 06:48:52 -0800 (PST), "pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>
wrote:
 
>Coming from you, this makes me quietly proud! Yet, as it happens, I do feel sorry for you as, clearly, your meds are failing again.
 
>Peter Wieck
>Melrose Park, PA
 
Who the heck are you talking to?
"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Jan 31 06:35AM -0800


> Who the heck are you talking to?
 
That would be Mr. Allison, our resident Tourette's Syndrome tech. He goes in fits and starts, with sometimes months of civility and good advice, punctuated with periods of full blown psychosis.
 
And, when both wrong *and* off his meds, he advocates all kinds of colorful fates for his momentary enemies.
 
It is a very good thing he is where he is - I doubt he would survive in an environment where he would be held accountable for his ravings.
 
Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Jan 30 11:18AM -0800

Ralph:
 
Let me sum up my attitude with a single example:
 
http://www.globalindustrial.com/p/tools/Pliers-Vise/Pliers-Linesman/global-industrial-9-linesman-pliers-534198?infoParam.campaignId=T9F&gclid=Cj0KEQiA5bvEBRCM6vypnc7QgMkBEiQAUZftQMu0kyolt4EcooB_MEo8AetAZfVA-a5TGEu3sPRZXVEaAq908P8HAQ This?
 
https://www.amazon.com/Channellock-349-Premium-Wiremaster-Linesman/dp/B00004SBD5 Or this?
 
Do I need to explain why?
 
Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 21 updates in 4 topics

oldschool@tubes.com: Jan 29 02:32PM -0600

I want to re-cap an old tube type shortwave radio. I dont mind using
plastic coated caps to replace the old paper-wax ones in the circuit.
(Meaning the smallish ones, such as .05 .02 .001, etc.)
 
However, it seems that no one sells the multi-part electrolytic
capacitors anymore. Particularly the ones on aluminum containers that
were mounted on the chassis. Those used to be very common on all old
TVs, radios, and other stuff. Normally, they came with 2, 3, or 4, caps
inside one container. (I never saw more than 4). Something like 50mf
450v 30mf 300v 10mf 150v was common. And not only the aluminum chassis
mounted ones, but many of the old (American Five) sets (5 tubes) had a
wax coated multi-part electrolytic capacitor, which went below the
chassis and was mounted by a strap around the cap body, and had a black
wire (GND), and a different color wire for each internal cap.
 
I like to restore this stuff to look original, as well as having to
consider that some of these devices dont have much spare space under the
chassis, to add individual caps.
 
I have checked both real stores and online vendors and no one seems to
sell these multi-part electrolytic capacitors anymore. Yes, I did run
across a few "OLD STOCK" caps, but I would assume that they deteriorate
almost as much as those inside a circuit, from aging. So, I'll avoid
them.
 
Does anyone know of any source for the multi-part electrolytic
capacitors which are still made to fit these vintage tube devices?
 
One other thing. I am not finding any 50-50 or 60-40 lead tin rosin core
solder anymore. At least not in the stores. I do not plan to serve
anyone dinner on the underside of a chassis, so I'm not worried about
getting lead poisoning. But apparently the government must think we eat
off of our electronics and have banned the old lead based solder.
 
Since I will be removing old caps, soldered with lead-tin solder,
shouldn't I be using lead-tin solder to replace the parts? Or will the
new solder (whatever it's made of), mix properly with the old lead based
stuff? (I dont want to create some sort of dialectric corrosion issues).
[Even with a desoldering bulb and wicking, not 100% of the lead is ever
removed]. Not to mention that I have heard that some (or all) of these
new solders require a lot more heat, which can damage the components
while soldering.
 
I have not worked on tube equipment in years, and I am looking forward
to this project. But things sure have changed since the time I played
around with these radios years ago (1960s - 70s). I gave up my
electronics hobby when semiconductors took over, because they are just
not as much fun to work on and too difficult to repair. Maybe working on
some tube equipment will make me feel young again. :)
dplatt@coop.radagast.org (Dave Platt): Jan 29 02:03PM -0800

In article <02is8c9u88l40h63st3fhjbc8h4172jisc@4ax.com>,
 
>I like to restore this stuff to look original, as well as having to
>consider that some of these devices dont have much spare space under the
>chassis, to add individual caps.
 
What a lot of people in your situation do, these days, is temporarily
remove the old cap-can, carefully gut it, and install several smaller
modern capacitors inside the shell, connecting them to the appropriate
lugs on the bottom terminal disc. Using modern caps, and a bit of
sleeving on the leads, it's usually possible to fit the necessary
individual parts into the shell.
 
You can then reinstall the Wolves In Cheap Clothing capacitor-set
in its original location. Cosmetically it will look just like the
original; electrically it will probably be quite a bit superior to
the original.
 
You might be able to do the same thing with the wax-coated
multicap... or, if its case is already "gone bad" you can probably
make a reasonable look-alike using a cardboard sleeve over a set of
modern caps, and (if you insist on original appearance) dip it in wax
or varnish.
Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Jan 29 06:41PM -0800

> were mounted on the chassis. Those used to be very common on all old
> TVs, radios, and other stuff. Normally, they came with 2, 3, or 4, caps
> inside one container. (I never saw more than 4).
 
** Not made anymore by anyone.
 
EXCEPT for some double types with brands like F&T, ARS and K&D.
 
LCR used to make them too but when out of business about 10 years ago.
 
You will see them all on eBay.
 
 
FYI
 
I have come across new looking triple types that were sold for use in old Fender amps:
 
https://www.talkbass.com/attachments/cap_can-jpg.985203/
 
Don't buy them, they are 50+ year old caps that are all faulty.
 
 
 
.... Phil
Ralph Mowery <rmowery28146@earthlink.net>: Jan 29 11:17PM -0500

In article <02is8c9u88l40h63st3fhjbc8h4172jisc@4ax.com>,
oldschool@tubes.com says...
> electronics hobby when semiconductors took over, because they are just
> not as much fun to work on and too difficult to repair. Maybe working on
> some tube equipment will make me feel young again. :)
 
Look here for the capacitors you want.
 
https://hayseedhamfest.com/
 
YOu should be able to find the 60/40 solder from places in the US.If in
anoter country, I don't know.
 
Ebay is full of the 60/40 and 63/37 solder.
 
Mouser.com has some at about $45 per pound spool
 
The newer stuff will mix ok with the old for the tube size equipment.
Just takes more heat to melt the newer stuff. I don't use the lead free
on anything. No work for pay,as I am just doing electronic work for
myself.
"Dave M" <dgminala@mediacombb.net>: Jan 29 10:39PM -0600

Those multi-section capacitors are quickly becoming extinct. There are a
few vendors that still cater to those who resotore antique electronics.
Here are a few that I have used in the past.
https://hayseedhamfest.com/
http://www.justradios.com/
https://www.tubesandmore.com/products/capacitors
https://vacuumtubesinc.com/
http://store.triodestore.com/
http://www.oldradioparts.com/
http://www.grillecloth.com/other/parts.php
 
There are probably more that I haven't seen or heard of. There have been
several sites that have shut down, likely because of the owners' health or
lack of buisiness. There used to be a guy online who actually rebuilt the
old multi-section capacitors. He opened the aluminum case, removed the old
capacitor guts and replaced the sections with new, individual capacitors and
resealed the case. He did a pretty good job; I used his service a couple
of times, but his health caused him to close the business.
you're correct about the "old stock" parts. the electrolytics will have to
be reformed before putting them to work in a real circuit. If they're not
too far gone, reforming will get a lot of life out of them. If you have no
other choice, you have a good chance of bringing them back to life.
 
I use the old 63/37 tin/lead solder. Not cheap any more, but still
available. No reason to go lead-free in the old equipment.
http://www.mcmelectronics.com/browse/Lead-Alloy/0000001207
http://www.allelectronics.com/category/570/solder-accessories/1.html
http://www.skycraftsurplus.com/search.aspx?find=solder
http://www.mpja.com/Solder-Accessories/products/348/
 
Good luck in your hobby. Not many of us old tube guys around any more.
 
Cheers,
Dave M
 
 
Chris Jones <lugnut808@spam.yahoo.com>: Jan 30 05:27PM +1100

> removed]. Not to mention that I have heard that some (or all) of these
> new solders require a lot more heat, which can damage the components
> while soldering.
 
You can still buy leaded solder, even in Europe where it is not allowed
in new electronics that is sold, but can still legally be used to repair
things that were built before 2006. You can also use it to make new
things in Europe if you do not "place them on the market".
 
The solder with 60% lead is not even very nice to use, because it spends
a lot of time in a "mushy" state as it is cooling. I think they only
used 60% lead in old appliances because lead is cheaper than tin. The
eutectic alloy with 37% lead is much better because it goes from fully
liquid to being fully solid over a small range of temperature, but is
slightly more expensive due to the higher price of tin.
 
Some of the lead-free solders are actually not bad to use, for example
96SC alloy from Multicore. The melting point is a bit higher than
tin-lead eutectic but probably not much different from the 60% lead
alloy that you wanted. The high melting point would only really be a
problem if you are desoldering components from plated-through holes in a
multilayer board with several ground planes buried within it, and that
sounds unlikely for your vintage electronics. The only problem that I
have with the 96SC alloy is that it is expensive, perhaps partly due to
the 3.8% silver content.
 
The area around the wet sponge used for cleaning the soldering iron
usually gets covered in tiny solder particles and dust, that get on the
carpet etc. When soldering at home the main risk is probably if you have
a young child in your family of the age where they crawl on the floor
eating dirt, and they eat some lead dust. A blood concentration of lead
that is increased by 50 parts per billion is correlated with an IQ that
is 10 to 20 points lower. If you do the calculations, 50 parts per
billion is not much.
http://oehha.ca.gov/media/goodmangilmanlead.pdf
If you are working on old equipment then regardless of whether you use
leaded solder wire or not, the solder droplets that end up on your
sponge and on the bench around it will contain lead, so it is best to
wipe it up carefully and keep it out of living areas of your house.
N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Jan 30 12:12PM

> electronics hobby when semiconductors took over, because they are just
> not as much fun to work on and too difficult to repair. Maybe working on
> some tube equipment will make me feel young again. :)
 
Research the term "restuffing", I've done it a few times.
Modern caps tend to be smaller volume and if you can find the right
aspect ratio, can get 2 or 3 in a recycled can. Add insulation between
the caps, removing the original contents can be messy and you might have
to go for axial type caps and somtimes the new contents might protrude
under the can
"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Jan 30 04:39AM -0800

On Sunday, January 29, 2017 at 9:41:59 PM UTC-5, Phil Allison wrote:
> olds...@tubes.com wrote:
 
> ** Not made anymore by anyone.
 
Most of the "popular" types of multi-section caps are still made for specific purposes.
 
http://www.tubes4hifi.com/ST70.htm about halfway down the page.
 
This is only one (1) example of such sources. There are a great many similar sources. I have seen such dedicated to brands like Zenith and Hallicrafters in the radio end of the hobby - and many more dedicated to the likes of McIntosh, Dynaco, Eico, Marantz and others. The downside is that they are NOT cheap, typically tens of multiples of the cost of individual caps.
 
That being written, NOS caps are as suspect as the one in your radio. Restuffing works nicely, is inexpensive and as you become more skilled at it, will be invisible as well as far less costly.
 
Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Jan 30 06:10AM -0800


> > ** Not made anymore by anyone.
 
> Most of the "popular" types of multi-section caps are still made for specific purposes.
 
> http://www.tubes4hifi.com/ST70.htm about halfway down the page.
 
** The rest of my post you fucking SNIPPED details exactly that brand of electro cap - complete with a very clear pic.
 
And it points out the suppliers are *criminal fraudsters*.
 
FFS, you retarded fucking asshole - READ what is fucking posted ~!!~!!
 
 
 
> Peter Wieck
> Melrose Park, PA
 
** Must be right next fucking La La Land.
 
Piss the fuck off you senile, useless fucking retard.
 
And I mean that most sincere.
 

 
 
.... Phil
"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Jan 30 06:19AM -0800

You need to take a Chill Pill.
 
VTA & Bob Latino have been around for many years, stand behind their products and sell good stuff. The other dedicated suppliers are also of long and good standing including a few that I have meet personally and actually observed and tested their products.
 
Point being that multi-section caps are still in production, albeit limited to mostly the highest-volume values and types, or for the most expensive (and popular) equipment. But, for all that, still in production.
 
It must be very easy from a cave in Australia to spit out invective supported by anecdotes of doubtful veracity - if even that much. Were you more available, I am fairly sure that some of your fans would have at the very least adjusted your attitude, if not cleaned your proverbial clock for you. I guess you are that 3-year old - if she can't see it, it does not exist.
 
https://www.die-wuestens.de/dindex.htm?/k8.htm
 
Another one.
 
Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Jan 30 06:41AM -0800


> You need to take a Chill Pill.
 
** You nee a fucking bullet in the head.
 
 
> VTA & Bob Latino have been around for many years,
 
 
* So fucking, stinking what ???
 
The "CE Manufacturing" brand electros on that page are a criminal FRAUD.
 
Bob Latino is profiting from the SCAM, so is just as bad as them.
 
I have seen them personal,y so I fucking know.
 
YOU FUCKING HAVE NOT !!!!
 
 
 
> Point being that multi-section caps are still in production,
 
 
** And I clearly pointed out the very few, dual ones that *really were*.
 
But you snipped them out of sight too, you stupid, fucking senile ASSHOLE.
 

 
 
> It must be very easy from a cave in Australia ...
 
** What shit hole do you live in fucked, a septic tank ?
 
 
 
FYI to all:
 
 
The Peter Wieck troll is one of the worst, lying nut cases seen on usenet over the last 15 to 20 years - probably longer.
 
The retard has no ide how retarded he is so it might seem cruel to abuse him, I know.
 
But how the hell else do you shut dangerous FUCKING IDIOTS like him up ???
 
 
 
 
.... Phil
"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Jan 30 06:48AM -0800

Coming from you, this makes me quietly proud! Yet, as it happens, I do feel sorry for you as, clearly, your meds are failing again.
 
Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
oldschool@tubes.com: Jan 29 03:01PM -0600

On Thu, 05 Jan 2017 10:04:58 -0800, Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>
wrote:
 
>transistor will dissipate considerable heat at high loads.
 
>Sounds like too much work. I'll see if can find one in my junk pile.
>I've been hoarding germanium devices for years for use in repairs.
 
I have not heard about germanium in years. When I played around with old
tube stuff in the 60s - 70s, I remember germanium diodes were fairly
common. I never ran across a germanium transistor.
 
Reading this thread made me question what germanium really is, and I
read the following article (good article). I know it was used to make
the FIRST semiconductors, I never knew much more about it.
It appears it's a costly elemental material.
 
Here are a few clips from that article.
 
[Quote]
 
From:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Germanium
 
Germanium "metal" (isolated germanium) is used as a semiconductor in
transistors and various other electronic devices. Historically, the
first decade of semiconductor electronics was based entirely on
germanium. Today, the amount of germanium produced for semiconductor
electronics is one fiftieth the amount of ultra-high purity silicon
produced for the same. Presently, the major end uses are fibre-optic
systems, infrared optics, solar cell applications, and light-emitting
diodes (LEDs). Germanium compounds are also used for polymerization
catalysts and have most recently found use in the production of
nanowires. This element forms a large number of organometallic
compounds, such as tetraethylgermane, useful in organometallic
chemistry.
 
-
Germanium differs from silicon in that the supply is limited by the
availability of exploitable sources, while the supply of silicon is
limited only by production capacity since silicon comes from ordinary
sand and quartz. While silicon could be bought in 1998 for less than $10
per kg, the price of germanium was almost $800 per kg.
 
[End Quote]
"Benderthe.evilrobot" <Benderthe.evilrobot@virginmedia.com>: Jan 29 09:32PM

<oldschool@tubes.com> wrote in message
news:2gls8c9v6rniulp4et8n6ecvu5stq491ri@4ax.com...
> read the following article (good article). I know it was used to make
> the FIRST semiconductors, I never knew much more about it.
> It appears it's a costly elemental material.
 
Apparently it was refined from flue dust where a specific type of coal was
used.
 
Not difficult to see how it might be hard to come by nowadays.
Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Jan 29 02:10PM -0800


>I have not heard about germanium in years. When I played around with old
>tube stuff in the 60s - 70s, I remember germanium diodes were fairly
>common. I never ran across a germanium transistor.
 
Germanium transistors were very common in the 1960's. For example, I
was selling all germanium Motorola pagers and partly germanium mobile
radios at the time. All of the old vibrator power supply to
transistor conversions used germanium power transistors. Most of the
AM car radios were germanium.
 
Germanium is not dead today. There are SiGe devices that use the best
properties of both materials to good advantage.
<https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Silicon-germanium>
 
Germanium is also the preferred material for Infrared lenses.
<http://www.iiviinfrared.com/Optical-Materials/ge.html>
 
>While silicon could be bought in 1998 for less than $10
>per kg, the price of germanium was almost $800 per kg.
 
Yep. Germanium is expensive. Price at the end of 2015 was $1,760/kg
($800/lb):
<https://minerals.usgs.gov/minerals/pubs/commodity/germanium/mcs-2016-germa.pdf>
 
--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
MJC <gravity@mjcoon.plus.com>: Jan 29 10:31PM

In article <3btjA.131757$MU7.29082@fx18.am4>,
Benderthe.evilrobot@virginmedia.com says...
 
> <oldschool@tubes.com> wrote in message
> news:2gls8c9v6rniulp4et8n6ecvu5stq491ri@4ax.com...
> > I have not heard about germanium in years. When I played around with
old
> > read the following article (good article). I know it was used to make
> > the FIRST semiconductors, I never knew much more about it.
> > It appears it's a costly elemental material.
 
Back in the early 1960s I conducted an undergraduate/apprentice training
project to build a quartz clock. I think every transistor was germanium.
 
To divide the crystal frequency by multiple decades it used locked
multivibrators (no digital circuits whatsoever, though my employer made
computers). Anyone seen a circuit like this: https://onedrive.live.com/?
cid=72C9DE495D23AD02&id=72C9DE495D23AD02%215482&parId=72C9DE495D23AD02%
215481&o=OneUp ?
 
It was my very own design; I still have the circuit value calculations!
 
Mike.
jurb6006@gmail.com: Jan 30 01:46AM -0800

Would have liked to see that but onedrive doesn't seem to like my computer. I am sure some sort of download will fix everything but they can stick that where it is sure not to get a sunburn.
MJC <gravity@mjcoon.plus.com>: Jan 30 11:21AM

In article <067ebd37-fe5a-475d-b034-62b5b9a1cb19@googlegroups.com>,
jurb6006@gmail.com says...
 
> Would have liked to see that but onedrive doesn't seem to like my computer. I am sure some sort of download will fix everything but they can stick that where it is sure not to get a sunburn.
 
Thanks for that; I'm not good at "sharing"! It should just have been a
URL link. Please try this instead:
<https://goo.gl/photos/cZRDRY1JB3vTTr2F9>
 
Mike.
"Newgene McMensa" <newgene.mcmensaREMOVE@gREMOVEmail.com>: Jan 29 09:21PM -0800

This is a great story for late night or a rainy day.... Anyone who grew up tinkering with gadgets has got to listen to this story by Steve Gibson. He telling a great story about making a device to keep a barking dog from pestering him on his walks home from school. Reminds me of a Tom Sawyer or Our Gang type story.
 
SN 592: The Portable Dog Killer. Steve Gibson
Episode 248. Hosts: Steve Gibson and Leo Laporte
 
Video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8Glft9CQ-5s (2016)
 
Site, A/V, transcripts
https://twit.tv/shows/security-now/episodes/248 (original 2010)
https://twit.tv/shows/security-now/episodes/592 (same but adds a good intro 2016)
 
Audio Files
http://twit.cachefly.net/audio/sn/sn0592/sn0248.mp3 (2010)
http://twit.cachefly.net/audio/sn/sn0592/sn0592.mp3 (2016)
Ralph Mowery <rmowery28146@earthlink.net>: Jan 29 11:13AM -0500

In article <b1686725-bdf1-41ea-ac58-e71b1db520c0@googlegroups.com>,
pfjw@aol.com says...
 
> And the aforementioned meter. In my traveling kit (Kutztown twice per year, and when 'in the field', I keep a very vintage Radio Shack Japanese VOM, and the AnaTek ESR meter.
 
> Paying a premium for my meters to get reliability, predictability and function is by no means any sort of rip-off. I have been known to pay $40 for a pair of box-joint Linesman Pliers (ChannelLock) rather than $8.99 for a similar-in-size piece of Chinese Junque.
 
> Good (new) tools are not cheap. Cheap (new) tools are not good.
 
You should have looked at this persons comparison:
 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HbHGpA1jrJE
 
The ripoff by Peak is that they could have combined two devices in one
meter as it is mostly software. They chose to only enable passive or
active devices to they can sell two boxes and double the profit.
 
I agree it is good to pay more for a quality instrument, but lately
there seems to be some very good quality items comming from China,
especially if you look at the price of them. I just bought a 200 MHz
scope and a function generator made in China from a company in the US.
They work very well.
 
Bein a ham radio operator I have bought some of the trnsceivers from
China and have contacts with many more. Some of them work very well and
a lot less then the Japan vesions. There are also some junk copies of
the Japan radios that do not work well at all.
"Benderthe.evilrobot" <Benderthe.evilrobot@virginmedia.com>: Jan 29 09:29PM

<pfjw@aol.com> wrote in message
news:c9a30904-8a86-4373-8694-a4a81a2f31db@googlegroups.com...
 
> I also use the Peak Atlas device. Paid for itself the day it arrived
> (under the Tree on Christmas Day) with the smile on the kids' faces when I
> opened it - and many times since in actual use.
 
I actually won mine for letter of the month in a hobby magazine - but I was
trying to divert funds into a kitty to buy one anyway.
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 5 updates in 1 topic

"Benderthe.evilrobot" <Benderthe.evilrobot@virginmedia.com>: Jan 28 10:18PM

<pfjw@aol.com> wrote in message
news:8d74384f-dda1-40d3-a0e3-c4cd54dd51fa@googlegroups.com...
> mistakes amateurs make with electrolytic caps is assuming a
> higher-than-expected reading as "good". Many times, it is more indicative
> the cap slowly going open.
 
That's probably a worthwhile precaution anyway whether they need it or not -
a few of the PSU electrolytics are capable of letting the magic smoke out
with a fair bit of enthusiasm!
 
In the absence of an ESR meter - any bulged or sunken tops should be
investigated. Dried out caps can feel noticeably light.
 
In a PSU; bad caps can get hot - deteriorated plastic sleeve can be a clue.
 
I have a continuity tester/voltage indicator that causes both charge and
discharge blips in the LEDs. I used that before I got an ESR meter. With a
bit of practice you can tell a fair bit by how the cap charges and
discharges through the LEDs. Not as good - but you can get away with an
inverse parallel pair of LEDs, a battery, a current limiting resistor and a
push button.
 
An ESR meter takes the uncertainty out of it - I use the Peak Atlas
instrument. Its not cheap - but could pay for itself quicker than you think.
"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Jan 28 03:58PM -0800

On Saturday, January 28, 2017 at 5:18:48 PM UTC-5, Benderthe.evilrobot wrote:
 
> An ESR meter takes the uncertainty out of it - I use the Peak Atlas
> instrument. Its not cheap - but could pay for itself quicker than you think.
 
I also use the Peak Atlas device. Paid for itself the day it arrived (under the Tree on Christmas Day) with the smile on the kids' faces when I opened it - and many times since in actual use.
 
Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
Ralph Mowery <rmowery28146@earthlink.net>: Jan 28 07:46PM -0500

In article <c9a30904-8a86-4373-8694-a4a81a2f31db@googlegroups.com>,
pfjw@aol.com says...
 
> I also use the Peak Atlas device. Paid for itself the day it arrived (under the Tree on Christmas Day) with the smile on the kids' faces when I opened it - and many times since in actual use.
 
> Peter Wieck
> Melrose Park, PA
 
On ebay there are devices like the Peak that are not in a case but are
functional. They are only about $ 20. They do not rip you off like
Peak in that one device will check the transistors and capacitors
(active and passive components).
I have one and put it in a case. I works very well.
"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Jan 29 05:32AM -0800

On Saturday, January 28, 2017 at 7:46:08 PM UTC-5, Ralph Mowery wrote:
 
> Peak in that one device will check the transistors and capacitors
> (active and passive components).
> I have one and put it in a case. I works very well.
 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LZ49GCnf0V4 Review of the Peak Atlas.
 
It acquits itself quite nicely against some pretty high-end meters. So on the "pro" side:
 
a) it is accurate against some industry-standard devices.
b) it is self-contained and serves both to measure capacitance and ESR. Doing two things well rather than many things less well.
c) it will discharge capacitors without damage.
d) it is NOT made in China.
e) it will measure in-circuit and out.
 
I keep four meters on the bench:
 
B&K LCR meter
Fluke "true RMS" VOM
Peak Atlas Transistor/diode checker
 
And the aforementioned meter. In my traveling kit (Kutztown twice per year, and when 'in the field', I keep a very vintage Radio Shack Japanese VOM, and the AnaTek ESR meter.
 
Paying a premium for my meters to get reliability, predictability and function is by no means any sort of rip-off. I have been known to pay $40 for a pair of box-joint Linesman Pliers (ChannelLock) rather than $8.99 for a similar-in-size piece of Chinese Junque.
 
Good (new) tools are not cheap. Cheap (new) tools are not good.
 
Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
Ralph Mowery <rmowery28146@earthlink.net>: Jan 29 11:13AM -0500

In article <b1686725-bdf1-41ea-ac58-e71b1db520c0@googlegroups.com>,
pfjw@aol.com says...
 
> And the aforementioned meter. In my traveling kit (Kutztown twice per year, and when 'in the field', I keep a very vintage Radio Shack Japanese VOM, and the AnaTek ESR meter.
 
> Paying a premium for my meters to get reliability, predictability and function is by no means any sort of rip-off. I have been known to pay $40 for a pair of box-joint Linesman Pliers (ChannelLock) rather than $8.99 for a similar-in-size piece of Chinese Junque.
 
> Good (new) tools are not cheap. Cheap (new) tools are not good.
 
You should have looked at this persons comparison:
 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HbHGpA1jrJE
 
The ripoff by Peak is that they could have combined two devices in one
meter as it is mostly software. They chose to only enable passive or
active devices to they can sell two boxes and double the profit.
 
I agree it is good to pay more for a quality instrument, but lately
there seems to be some very good quality items comming from China,
especially if you look at the price of them. I just bought a 200 MHz
scope and a function generator made in China from a company in the US.
They work very well.
 
Bein a ham radio operator I have bought some of the trnsceivers from
China and have contacts with many more. Some of them work very well and
a lot less then the Japan vesions. There are also some junk copies of
the Japan radios that do not work well at all.
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 1 update in 1 topic

jaugustine@verizon.net: Jan 27 03:20PM

Hi Jeroni,
 
After the "Hello" disappears, everything works just fine.
 
BTW, I bought this NEW on 10-25-05.
 
When not in use, I don't keep this unit plugged in since it
uses 26 watts (measured) of power when it is turned OFF.
 
John
 
 
On Wed, 25 Jan 2017 14:42:28 -0800 (PST), Jeroni Paul <JERONI.PAUL@terra.es>
wrote:
 
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 3 updates in 3 topics

N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Jan 27 12:49PM

Another eyelet problem with PbF, this time double sided tracks and
contact failure to tracks on component (mainly) side, requires remedial
pin works and resoldering relevant pot pins top and bottom.
Absolutely no original solder wetting of the "blind" side at the pads,
no plate-thru of the pcb ?
N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Jan 27 12:44PM

On 26/01/2017 15:57, N_Cook wrote:
> There are some half-length tanks with send and receive at one end and a
> low-damp suspension at the far end. Surely it would be possible to
> suspend a spiral spring in aero-gel or somesuch
 
solid-state, no boioioioioing
ohger1s@gmail.com: Jan 26 02:35PM -0800

> stages of going bad, but that did not fix the problem.
 
> Has anyone fixed this problem (same model with same issue)?
 
> Thank You in advance, John
 
I'm going to go out on a limb and guess this Panasonic is new to *you*. I remember these unit to be extraordinary. no-painfully slow to boot and non intuitive in operations.
 
This is an early machine that uses a comparatively slow processor and memory, and requires a lot of software to run. Probably normal.
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 11 updates in 5 topics

N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Jan 26 02:15PM

First one I've come across, anyone know what is inside? too big to be
bucket-brigade and regulator and a couple of opamps.
i don;t believe this supposed schematic
http://blogs.yahoo.co.jp/clubman501/60421206.html
7 pins to the outside world and pic is correct of this "Digi-log reverb"
N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Jan 26 03:48PM

On 26/01/2017 14:15, N_Cook wrote:
> i don;t believe this supposed schematic
> http://blogs.yahoo.co.jp/clubman501/60421206.html
> 7 pins to the outside world and pic is correct of this "Digi-log reverb"
 
that .jp is an external cct
MJC <gravity@mjcoon.plus.com>: Jan 26 03:50PM

In article <o6d07m$3g4$1@dont-email.me>, diverse@tcp.co.uk says...
> i don;t believe this supposed schematic
> http://blogs.yahoo.co.jp/clubman501/60421206.html
> 7 pins to the outside world and pic is correct of this "Digi-log reverb"
 
I have a vague recollection of coming across a reverb unit in the 1970s
which had one of more long springs inside. Worked a bit like those
ancient mercury delay line computer stores. It was certainly big!
 
Mike.
N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Jan 26 03:57PM

On 26/01/2017 15:50, MJC wrote:
> which had one of more long springs inside. Worked a bit like those
> ancient mercury delay line computer stores. It was certainly big!
 
> Mike.
 
A simple test, next time I power up. Tap the casing and see if output
goes boioioioioing.
I wonder if you culd make a small springline reverb, to compensate for
presumably tinny sound, seriously emphasise the bass and de-emph.
There are some half-length tanks with send and receive at one end and a
low-damp suspension at the far end. Surely it would be possible to
suspend a spiral spring in aero-gel or somesuch
N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Jan 26 02:18PM

On 24/01/2017 11:50, N_Cook wrote:
> lamp, any known stock fault?. It looks like return to engraving tool
> with nylon tip rattling pcb while listening to output on phones
> technique to zero in + redo usual suspect solderings
 
Genuine schematic on
https://www.electronica-pt.com/esquema/func-download/27975/chk,74425eb2e099442fd04c0d3e66f782db/no_html,1/
no reference to the mini-reverb unit though.
15 V "HT" to the valve
Looks like pot rivet problem and a PbF problem
"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Jan 25 09:39AM -0800

On Wednesday, January 25, 2017 at 11:05:25 AM UTC-5, jaugu...@verizon.net
 
> Note: I did electronic service work for many years.
> Note: This DVD recorder does NOT use a computer. It has
> AV inputs and outputs plus a built in TV type tuner.
 
a) Whether or not there is a "computer" (formal microprocessor) involved, there is still a great deal of RAM involved in the AD/DA process. So, try a hard reboot: Unplug the machine while ON (but no disc and not playing). Allow it to sit for at least an hour. Activate the "ON" switch for a full 30 seconds while still unplugged. Wait another full minute. Plug back in and restart.
 
b) If that does not help, replace any caps in the P/S anyway whether they pass the various (low voltage) tests applied. One of the most significant mistakes amateurs make with electrolytic caps is assuming a higher-than-expected reading as "good". Many times, it is more indicative the cap slowly going open.
 
c) And, once you get it where you want it to be, refrain from unplugging it - or you may find yourself in the position of having to do a hard reboot every time.
 
ASIDE and RANT WARNING: Guys and gals, let's look at so-called Vampire devices, what they really mean and what cold-starts also really mean.
 
Definitions: A Vampire Device is any device that continues to draw power while otherwise inert - not doing any sort of work as when active. So, not electric clocks, items with a clock function that power other than that clock and similar. VCRs and DVRs are often considered to be types of vampire devices. I have some very vintage Dynaco and AR devices that keep a low current on the main filter caps when not powered up - so as to avoid turn-on thumps and to keep those capacitors 'wet'. All those things. Big Flat-Screen televisions are also often considered vampires.
 
What we do not 'get' is that many of these devices 'learn' small things that are wiped out with complete disconnection. Or, internal parts are subject to heavy inrush currents when power is re-applied. TVs lose all their settings and default to "display mode" (Full bright, full color, full everything) when power is re-applied. Some tuners lose all their presets, and so on and so forth.
 
Now do the math: We, by direct measurement, have a vampire load of about 15 watts in our house. That is everything from the microwave clock to the wall-warts to the television and more. Power is $0.14/kwh (US dollars).
 
(15 x 24 x 7 x 365) = 919,800 = total watts.
919,800/1000 = 919.8 kilowatt hours
919.8 x 0.14 = $128.77 per year
128.77/12 = $10.73 per month
10.73/30 = $0.36 per day
 
For which I get:
 
No preset reprogramming.
No TV settings reprogramming x 2
No microwave/stove reprogramming
No surges to any wall-wart devices (they all have switching wall-warts. They draw no current when not actually working).
All it takes is one device to be damaged by a surge in any case to wipe out any savings.
 
Sure, from the same person lecturing on efficient washing machines. But this is apples (how something is designed to operate) and oranges (replacing one set of means-and-methods with another set of means-and-methods). If the goal is to clean fabrics with water and chemicals, it only makes sense to do so with the least amount of water and chemicals as is practical. If the goal is to enjoy electronic devices at their full functionality, then it only makes sense to provide the means to that end. One makes a deliberate choice to use those functions, so one pays the price.
 
And not to be elitist or anything of the sort: $128.77 may be significant and serious money to some. And to some few of those, not sustainable against other demands. For those the decision will be different in how they manage such issues. But it is also doubtful that they will have two hobbies that impact such, and have all the other artifacts that raise our vampire load as high as it is. And to be perfectly snarky, I can balance that $0.36/day against the 15,000 gallons of water I am saving every year over that old Maytag.....
 
Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
"tom" <tmiller11147@verizon.net>: Jan 25 01:12PM -0500

<pfjw@aol.com> wrote in message
news:8d74384f-dda1-40d3-a0e3-c4cd54dd51fa@googlegroups.com...
On Wednesday, January 25, 2017 at 11:05:25 AM UTC-5, jaugu...@verizon.net
 
> Note: I did electronic service work for many years.
> Note: This DVD recorder does NOT use a computer. It has
> AV inputs and outputs plus a built in TV type tuner.
 
a) Whether or not there is a "computer" (formal microprocessor) involved,
there is still a great deal of RAM involved in the AD/DA process. So, try a
hard reboot: Unplug the machine while ON (but no disc and not playing).
Allow it to sit for at least an hour. Activate the "ON" switch for a full 30
seconds while still unplugged. Wait another full minute. Plug back in and
restart.
 
b) If that does not help, replace any caps in the P/S anyway whether they
pass the various (low voltage) tests applied. One of the most significant
mistakes amateurs make with electrolytic caps is assuming a
higher-than-expected reading as "good". Many times, it is more indicative
the cap slowly going open.
 
c) And, once you get it where you want it to be, refrain from unplugging
it - or you may find yourself in the position of having to do a hard reboot
every time.
 
ASIDE and RANT WARNING: Guys and gals, let's look at so-called Vampire
devices, what they really mean and what cold-starts also really mean.
 
Definitions: A Vampire Device is any device that continues to draw power
while otherwise inert - not doing any sort of work as when active. So, not
electric clocks, items with a clock function that power other than that
clock and similar. VCRs and DVRs are often considered to be types of vampire
devices. I have some very vintage Dynaco and AR devices that keep a low
current on the main filter caps when not powered up - so as to avoid turn-on
thumps and to keep those capacitors 'wet'. All those things. Big Flat-Screen
televisions are also often considered vampires.
 
What we do not 'get' is that many of these devices 'learn' small things that
are wiped out with complete disconnection. Or, internal parts are subject to
heavy inrush currents when power is re-applied. TVs lose all their settings
and default to "display mode" (Full bright, full color, full everything)
when power is re-applied. Some tuners lose all their presets, and so on and
so forth.
 
Now do the math: We, by direct measurement, have a vampire load of about 15
watts in our house. That is everything from the microwave clock to the
wall-warts to the television and more. Power is $0.14/kwh (US dollars).
 
(15 x 24 x 7 x 365) = 919,800 = total watts.
919,800/1000 = 919.8 kilowatt hours
919.8 x 0.14 = $128.77 per year
128.77/12 = $10.73 per month
10.73/30 = $0.36 per day
 
For which I get:
 
No preset reprogramming.
No TV settings reprogramming x 2
No microwave/stove reprogramming
No surges to any wall-wart devices (they all have switching wall-warts. They
draw no current when not actually working).
All it takes is one device to be damaged by a surge in any case to wipe out
any savings.
 
Sure, from the same person lecturing on efficient washing machines. But this
is apples (how something is designed to operate) and oranges (replacing one
set of means-and-methods with another set of means-and-methods). If the goal
is to clean fabrics with water and chemicals, it only makes sense to do so
with the least amount of water and chemicals as is practical. If the goal is
to enjoy electronic devices at their full functionality, then it only makes
sense to provide the means to that end. One makes a deliberate choice to use
those functions, so one pays the price.
 
And not to be elitist or anything of the sort: $128.77 may be significant
and serious money to some. And to some few of those, not sustainable against
other demands. For those the decision will be different in how they manage
such issues. But it is also doubtful that they will have two hobbies that
impact such, and have all the other artifacts that raise our vampire load as
high as it is. And to be perfectly snarky, I can balance that $0.36/day
against the 15,000 gallons of water I am saving every year over that old
Maytag.....
 
Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
 
 
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
 
 
24 hours * 365 days = 8760 hours per year
8760 hours/year * 15 watts = 131,400 Watt Hours or 131.4 kWh
 
131.4 kWh * 0.14 $/kWh = $18.39 per year.
 
HTH,
Tom
Jeroni Paul <JERONI.PAUL@terra.es>: Jan 25 02:42PM -0800

I had this happen to other similar devices and it was some I2C bus device not responding. Does it fully work when it starts? Do tuner, modulator, all inputs/outputs, functions, etc work as expected?
Bruce Esquibel <bje@ripco.com>: Jan 26 09:57AM

> 919.8 x 0.14 = $128.77 per year
> 128.77/12 = $10.73 per month
> 10.73/30 = $0.36 per day
 
There is something fucked up with your math.
 
A steady draw of 15 watts would take 66.6 hours to consume 1 kilowatt or
nearly 3 days.
 
So the actual cost would be closer to 12 cents a day, not 36 cents.
 
-bruce
bje@ripco.com
jurb6006@gmail.com: Jan 25 07:25PM -0800

Hot as in running for a while, I don't mean put it in the oven. You want the heat generated from the components inside.
root <NoEMail@home.org>: Jan 25 05:55PM

> (TX-NR609, a few years old) that has a special proprietary port in back.
> I think one of the items available was an HD tuner that could plug into
> that.
 
I am in the market because my Onkyo NR616 is in the process of failing.
I think I am soured on Onkyo.
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