Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 4 updates in 2 topics

tabbypurr@gmail.com: Jun 30 08:36AM -0700

On Thursday, 29 June 2017 12:51:44 UTC+1, Phil Allison wrote:
 
> There is nothing the *iniest bit funny* about Asian and US based criminals ripping off keen electronics hobbyists and honest repair industry folk like me.
 
> Over to you...........
 
> .... Phil
 
Sometimes I'm not sure which planet you're from. I do not encourage, agree with or assist criminals who fake parts or deal in fake parts. Never have.
 
Component procurement in what I do is however utterly different to how probably all of you get parts, and I suspect a large misunderstanding to have arisen from that.
 
 
NT
tabbypurr@gmail.com: Jun 30 08:38AM -0700

On Thursday, 29 June 2017 15:01:15 UTC+1, John-Del wrote:
 
> Anyone who ever tried to use halogen lamps in portable clamp lights know they will be lucky to survive one minor bump, whereas even conventional incandescent lamps will survive several, and rough service incandescent lamps are extraordinarily tough.
 
> GE says your wrong Phil. Everyone here *knows* you're a Wiki jockey. Do usenet a big favor and go back to fixing toasters and coffee makers and stop pretending to be playing with the big boys. Oh yeah, clean your trailer of roaches while you're at it...
 
> https://groups.google.com/forum/?fromgroups=#!topic/sci.electronics.repair/YcNfjgMv6zw%5B1-25%5D
 
Phil certainly has his problems but he's right on this one.
 
 
NT
Chuck <chuck@mydeja.net>: Jun 30 09:04AM -0500


>---
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Also replace C703 and R703 (off the flyback) if the previous hints
don't work.
Chuck <chuck@mydeja.net>: Jun 30 09:09AM -0500

>>https://www.avast.com/antivirus
>Also replace C703 and R703 (off the flyback) if the previous hints
>don't work.
Ignore my last post; I followed a wire incorrectly. These parts are
in the XRay shutdown circuit and do not pertain to your problem.
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 25 updates in 3 topics

jeff.panasuk@cfl.rr.com: Jun 29 02:02PM -0700

Back in February or March of 2010 the TV began changing from any channel to channel 2 intermittently. Sometimes very frequent. Other times more intermittent but it would not go more than a few hours without the problem popping up. Replaced IC0102 (MN14834HH) Main IC for the Channel Selection Ckt but no help. Remote control IR circuit not the problem as I disabled it. Over time have replaced some bad unrelated hw (burnt resistor, Caps). Have schematics and service manual but can't isolate the problem. Nice picture and everything else works fine. Unit in storage but every 4 months or so, when I see it and think about it, I fire it up. Hate to trash this old tv. Kind of part of the family now. Has anyone ever heard of this before?
Sjouke Burry <burrynulnulfour@ppllaanneett.nnll>: Jun 29 11:31PM +0200

> Back in February or March of 2010 the TV began changing from any channel to channel 2 intermittently. Sometimes very frequent. Other times more intermittent but it would not go more than a few hours without the problem popping up. Replaced IC0102 (MN14834HH) Main IC for the Channel Selection Ckt but no help. Remote control IR circuit not the problem as I disabled it. Over time have replaced some bad unrelated hw (burnt resistor, Caps). Have schematics and service manual but can't isolate the problem. Nice picture and everything else works fine. Unit in storage but every 4 months or so, when I see it and think about it, I fire it up. Hate to trash this old tv. Kind of part of the family now. Has anyone ever heard of this before?
 
Spurious interference from modern light source?
Some cheap ones produce a lot of garbage besides light.
John-Del <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Jun 29 03:32PM -0700

> Back in February or March of 2010 the TV began changing from any channel to channel 2 intermittently. Sometimes very frequent. Other times more intermittent but it would not go more than a few hours without the problem popping up. Replaced IC0102 (MN14834HH) Main IC for the Channel Selection Ckt but no help. Remote control IR circuit not the problem as I disabled it. Over time have replaced some bad unrelated hw (burnt resistor, Caps). Have schematics and service manual but can't isolate the problem. Nice picture and everything else works fine. Unit in storage but every 4 months or so, when I see it and think about it, I fire it up. Hate to trash this old tv. Kind of part of the family now. Has anyone ever heard of this before?
 
 
Did you try disabling the keyboard?
John-Del <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Jun 29 03:35PM -0700

> Back in February or March of 2010 the TV began changing from any channel to channel 2 intermittently. Sometimes very frequent.
 
Wow, haven't seen one of these in decades.
 
If this model has a manual on/off switch, check the reset circuit for the micro.
rickman <gnuarm@gmail.com>: Jun 29 11:14PM -0400

> Back in February or March of 2010 the TV began changing from any channel to channel 2 intermittently. Sometimes very frequent. Other times more intermittent but it would not go more than a few hours without the problem popping up. Replaced IC0102 (MN14834HH) Main IC for the Channel Selection Ckt but no help. Remote control IR circuit not the problem as I disabled it. Over time have replaced some bad unrelated hw (burnt resistor, Caps). Have schematics and service manual but can't isolate the problem. Nice picture and everything else works fine. Unit in storage but every 4 months or so, when I see it and think about it, I fire it up. Hate to trash this old tv. Kind of part of the family now. Has anyone ever heard of this before?
 
A friend had one of those big console TVs that would work, but there was
something wrong with the controls, I don't recall just what exactly. I
suggested he unplug the set for a while to let the caps drain off and the
processor reset. It worked sure enough! I expect a power spike of some
sort glitched the processor and it was working, but some variable was hosed
messing up the operation. A clean reset got everything working right again.
 
I guess that's not your problem.
 
--
 
Rick C
Jon Elson <elson@pico-systems.com>: Jun 29 11:26PM -0500

> months or so, when I see it and think about it, I fire it up. Hate to
> trash this old tv. Kind of part of the family now. Has anyone ever heard
> of this before?
Does it have channel up and channel down buttons on the panel? Since
channel 2 is the lowest channel, if the channel down button was occasionally
acting like it was pressed, it might end up at channel 2. I had a computer
LCD monitor that had a soda splashed on the panel, and it got into the front
panel button board, and it would work for months or days and then start
flashing through the menus. Severe cleaning of the board with the buttons
fixed it.
 
Jon
tabbypurr@gmail.com: Jun 29 11:51PM -0700

> Back in February or March of 2010 the TV began changing from any channel to channel 2 intermittently. Sometimes very frequent. Other times more intermittent but it would not go more than a few hours without the problem popping up. Replaced IC0102 (MN14834HH) Main IC for the Channel Selection Ckt but no help. Remote control IR circuit not the problem as I disabled it. Over time have replaced some bad unrelated hw (burnt resistor, Caps). Have schematics and service manual but can't isolate the problem. Nice picture and everything else works fine. Unit in storage but every 4 months or so, when I see it and think about it, I fire it up. Hate to trash this old tv. Kind of part of the family now. Has anyone ever heard of this before?
 
Yes from neon channel selector sets, touch selectors & older pushbutton bar tuning sets. Show us the circuit.
 
 
NT
John-Del <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Jun 30 04:29AM -0700

> > Back in February or March of 2010 the TV began changing from any channel to channel 2 intermittently. Sometimes very frequent. Other times more intermittent but it would not go more than a few hours without the problem popping up. Replaced IC0102 (MN14834HH) Main IC for the Channel Selection Ckt but no help. Remote control IR circuit not the problem as I disabled it. Over time have replaced some bad unrelated hw (burnt resistor, Caps). Have schematics and service manual but can't isolate the problem. Nice picture and everything else works fine. Unit in storage but every 4 months or so, when I see it and think about it, I fire it up. Hate to trash this old tv. Kind of part of the family now. Has anyone ever heard of this before?
 
> Yes from neon channel selector sets, touch selectors & older pushbutton bar tuning sets. Show us the circuit.
 
> NT
 
Hmmm... you're drudging up long forgotten memories. Back in the late 70s Zenith used a varactor tuned electronic tuner that used neons as indicators for the pre-set push button selector, and sometimes those neons were the cause of the TV jumping channels or refusing to engage a selected channel.
 
By 1984 I would think that all manufacturers would be using a true digital selector system for anything no using a mechanical tuner.
 
Unfortunately, OP didn't say if the TV would scan downward to channel 2 or jump to it. He also didn't say if the TV normally defaulted to channel 2 when the TV was powered off or when the AC was lost.
 
There were a lot of TVs then that used a digital keypad, but were not remote control and used a mechanical AC switch and volume control. In this case, it's possible that the uPc is only used for channel functions and his problem could be on the micro's reset line.
tabbypurr@gmail.com: Jun 30 04:47AM -0700

On Friday, 30 June 2017 12:29:30 UTC+1, John-Del wrote:
 
> By 1984 I would think that all manufacturers would be using a true digital selector system for anything no using a mechanical tuner.
 
> Unfortunately, OP didn't say if the TV would scan downward to channel 2 or jump to it. He also didn't say if the TV normally defaulted to channel 2 when the TV was powered off or when the AC was lost.
 
> There were a lot of TVs then that used a digital keypad, but were not remote control and used a mechanical AC switch and volume control. In this case, it's possible that the uPc is only used for channel functions and his problem could be on the micro's reset line.
 
Until the OP tells us what the technology is we have really no way to advise usefully. 1984 could be a few things, switched linear pots with varicap is likely, or touch sensors maybe. There were also old technologies used in some sets, so can't completely rule out a mechanical selector device operating a tuning bar.
 
 
NT
"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Jun 30 05:19AM -0700

http://diagramasde.com/page/2118
 
Might be something usable here.
 
My S.W.A.G. guess based on similar-vintage technology failing-to-default is a weak capacitor that does not hold the charge necessary to 'latch' to the chosen channel.
 
Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
jurb6006@gmail.com: Jun 30 06:26AM -0700

Most likely it is going into reset. Does it hold your settings, like color, brightness and whatever ? Probably not. They are likely all going to factory reset.
 
That would mean you are losing power to the micro or maybe the memory IC, or the memory IC is defective. Ir it has a memory IC it is probably an eight pin EEPROM. Look at the board and see if it has a supercapacitor or whatever, or a battery. Those could well be failing. That is actually more likely than an IC failing.
 
Keeping this old shit running is a good thing because all the new stuff is junk. My Ma watches an old CRT based Toshiba which works just fine. I do not have a TV hooked up because the programing is all junk. The scene changes so fast you cannot see anything. PUT THE IMAC DOWN ! Anything I want to watch is old.
 
One question here - does it return to channel 2 as you are watching it ? If so, that means there is a temporary interruption in the power supply, probably the standby supply. That would make me suspect a bad connection, or maybe one inside of a device like a regulator or something.
 
It can also be caused by low supply voltage to whatever holds the memory. I would be headed for the power supply.
Chuck <chuck@mydeja.net>: Jun 30 08:44AM -0500

On Thu, 29 Jun 2017 14:02:39 -0700 (PDT), jeff.panasuk@cfl.rr.com
wrote:
 
>Back in February or March of 2010 the TV began changing from any channel to channel 2 intermittently. Sometimes very frequent. Other times more intermittent but it would not go more than a few hours without the problem popping up. Replaced IC0102 (MN14834HH) Main IC for the Channel Selection Ckt but no help. Remote control IR circuit not the problem as I disabled it. Over time have replaced some bad unrelated hw (burnt resistor, Caps). Have schematics and service manual but can't isolate the problem. Nice picture and everything else works fine. Unit in storage but every 4 months or so, when I see it and think about it, I fire it up. Hate to trash this old tv. Kind of part of the family now. Has anyone ever heard of this before?
I ran the television service department in the corporate headquarters
for the largest seller of Hitachi sets at that time in the U.S. so I
might be able to help you. First disconnect pin 17 and 18 of IC0102
and see if the problem disappears. If so, then it is likely the
channel tact switches. If not, take freeze spray and a hair dryer to
the tuner. The two main failures in this model, when there were tuner
problems, were the ic you replaced and the tuner itself. The band
switch IC IC0104 occasionally would fail and any 2SC458s in the
circuitry can cause problems. If these checks don't work, post again
and we'll go deeper in depth. Chuck
 
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oldschool@tubes.com: Jun 30 03:02AM -0400

From:
http://meretricia.com/news/world_losing_electrons.htm
 
 
World Running Out of Electrons, New Report Warns
 
The world is rapidly running out of electrons, a new report from
environmental action group Earth First warns. They have advocated that
electrons be placed on the endangered sub-atomic particles list.
 
Electrons are being used in shocking numbers by all consumers of
electricity. The usual scapegoats of the United States and Western
Europe are once again at the top of the list, consuming electrons at a
rate of 900 gigawatts per day. A single digital computer uses electrons
at a rate of approximately 6 billion billion per second, almost equal to
the rate at which the federal deficit is growing. The report predicts a
serious worldwide electron shortage by tomorrow.
A single digital computer uses electrons at a rate of approximately 6
billion billion per second.
 
Confronted with the report, White House Chief of Staff Karl Rove just
shrugged. "I don't know. We'll worry about it next week," he told
reporters. News of the report sent electronics stocks tumbling to their
lowest level in five hours. Utility company stock, however, soared, as
the price of electrons doubled to over three dollars a gallon.
 
The Earth First report recommends the immediate closure of all electron
drilling, refining, and distributing operations, and a reversion back to
the cave-man life style. Critics called their recommendations "somewhat
drastic".
 
Al Gore's "Alliance for Climate Protection" has called for the
development of alternative energy carriers. Protons have been
considered, but they are some 2000 times more massive than electrons and
tend to clog the wires. Gore and the other democratic candidates have
ignored neutrons, as they rarely vote anyway. The neutrons we surveyed
had no opinion on the matter. The Alliance has also proposed the
construction of a new sub-atomic particle to replace the dwindling
electron supply. However, new sub-atomic particles are expensive, as
they are often patented and cannot presently be assembled in Taiwan or
Malaysia. American supercollider operators are working on better ways to
export the technology, to prevent too much work being done in the United
States.
 
As the number of negative charges decreases, the entire earth becomes
more electropositive, contributing to Global Positivism. While the
Democrats favor a more negative planet, the Bush administration has
touted the benefits of Positivism. For example, hostile aliens who
traveled to earth from a more electronegative world would be "posicuted"
(a generally fatal process similar to electrocution and watching Barney)
as soon as they stepped out of their flying saucers. However, friendly
aliens would suffer the same fate. It is not yet known whether most
aliens are friendly or hostile, but science fiction authors seem to
favor the latter view.
 
The electron is not the first sub-atomic particle to be driven to
annihilation or near-extinction by human activities. The tachyon, for
example, was killed off by Einstein and his philosophy of special moral
relativity, which permitted the extermination of non- conforming
particles. The previously often hypothesized magnetic monopole was
spotted once in the wild but has never been seen again by confirming
researchers. The strange quark has a half-life of only 1 nanosecond and
currently cannot reproduce outside of magnetic captivity. There is, at
any given time, an average of less than one left in the whole world.
Foxs Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Jun 30 03:43AM -0500

This wasn't all that funny the first time around.
 
--
Jeff-1.0
wa6fwi
http://www.foxsmercantile.com
 
---
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thekmanrocks@gmail.com: Jun 30 05:30AM -0700

I read this article very early one April a few
years back.
jurb6006@gmail.com: Jun 30 06:28AM -0700

Good, I am tired of those things. they are all so negative. Fukum.
John-Del <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Jun 29 10:19AM -0700

On Thursday, June 29, 2017 at 12:16:33 PM UTC-4, rickman wrote:
> Clearly he is ill and needs our support, not reproach.
 
> --
 
> Rick C
 
 
Admonitions understood. I am ashamed. Thanks for that slap in the face Rick!
"Ian Field" <gangprobing.alien1@virginmedia.com>: Jun 29 09:59PM +0100

"John Robertson" <spam@flippers.com> wrote in message
news:PvydnV7BQ6b-xMnEnZ2dnUU7-LfNnZ2d@giganews.com...
 
> Well, I must confess I've never studied halogen bulbs on dimmers but
> reading Lutron's site does not give any concerns from them about halogens
> on dimmers in household use:
 
It seems fairly obvious that a dimmed filament doesn't gas off much
tungsten.
 
Ordinary bulbs above a certain rating are banned and have been replaced by
halogen capsules enclosed in a regular globe envelope.
 
So far; I've not seen any dimmable CFLs on the shelves and LED bulbs are
probably more tricky. The packaged halogen capsules are the easy way out if
you want a dimmer.
"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Jun 29 05:43PM -0700

https://www.1000bulbs.com/category/dimmable-cfl-compact-fluorescents/
 
They exist, our local Home Depot stocks them. Personally, I do not use them. If I need dimming, I use an LED.
 
Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Jun 29 05:46PM -0700

Don't feel bad. When approached by an aggressive panhandler, I take this approach, 100% of the time:
 
You empty your pockets (I get to search), and I will empty mine (you get to search). Whatever we find, we split it right down the middle.
 
In well over 100 offers of this sort, I have never once had a taker.
 
Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Jun 29 05:55PM -0700

John-Del is Deranged:
 
 
 
> > ** You have never shown me to be actually wrong.
 
> We don't need to go to far, you're wrong on this thread.
 
** No one tiny bit.
 
OTOH you have ignored many photos that prove you wrong beyond any doubt.
 
 
FYI out there:
 
Delusional Del is an obvious lunatic and congenital asshole.
 
 
 
..... Phil
Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Jun 29 06:12PM -0700

pf...@aol.com wrote:
 
The Wieck troll
 
 
 
> They exist, our local Home Depot stocks them.
> Personally, I do not use them.
> If I need dimming, I use an LED.
 
** Dimmable CFLs require a special dimmer, not the standard triac kind.

LED lamps have the same issue, most of them are "non-dimmable" and the rest need a similar, special dimmer.
 
OTOH, if you have a spare Variac lying around, it will dim most CFLs rather well and LEDs not so well.
 
 
 
..... Phil
John-Del <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Jun 29 07:23PM -0700

On Thursday, June 29, 2017 at 8:55:23 PM UTC-4, Phil Allison wrote:
 
> > We don't need to go to far, you're wrong on this thread.
 
> ** No one tiny bit.
 
> OTOH you have ignored many photos that prove you wrong beyond any doubt.
 
Those photos only prove you don't know what you're looking at. Those filaments have not nearly enough support to render those halogen lamps as sturdy as standard incandescents. Filaments that run that hot need more support per given length.
 
General Electric says this:
 
"Unlike incandescent rough service or vibration service lamps, Halogen and HIR lamps are not equipped with filament supports because they would result in the de-rating of the life and lumens, and thusly defeat the purpose of providing extremely long life, energy savings and high lumen output. These features differentiate Halogen and HIR lamps from similar incandescent counterparts."
 
Phallus'n says this: I'm right and if you don't agree with me you're an autistic deranged fuckwit who should kill himself!!!
 
Are you that delusional where you think anybody reading this NG would possibly agree with you Phil?
 
I would suggest you take that toaster you're rebuilding and modifying and take it in the bathtub with you (plugged in), but since your trailer is so roach infested I doubt you even know what a bathtub is.
Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Jun 29 07:44PM -0700

John-Del is Totally Deranged:
 
-----------------------------------
 
 
> > ** No one tiny bit.
 
> > OTOH you have ignored many photos that prove you wrong beyond any doubt.
 
> Those photos only prove you don't know what you're looking at.
 
** They prove you and GE wrong.
 
 
> Those filaments have not nearly enough support to render those halogen
> lamps as sturdy as standard incandescents.
 
 
** Del is now *desperately* trying to change the subject.
 
Cos he is a congenital, lying POS.
 
FYI to all:
 
Halogen tube lamps have sufficient internal supports to allow them to be used in portable work lights and similar jobs.
 
 
 
> General Electric says this:
 
> "Unlike incandescent rough service or vibration service lamps, Halogen and HIR lamps are not equipped with filament supports because they would result in the de-rating of the life and lumens, and thusly defeat the purpose of providing extremely long life, energy savings and high lumen output. These features differentiate Halogen and HIR lamps from similar incandescent counterparts."
 
** GE sell identical looking halogen tube lamps, with similar multiple supports.
 
http://www.gelighting.com/LightingWeb/emea/images/Halogen_DEQ_and_IR_DEQ_Lamps_Data_sheet_EN_tcm181-12726.pdf
 
 
 
 
> Phallus'n says this: I'm right and if you don't agree with me you're
> an autistic deranged fuckwit who should kill himself!!!
 
** Yep - you are very much one of them.
 
A dangerous lunatic in anyone's book.

 
 
 
..... Phil
rickman <gnuarm@gmail.com>: Jun 29 11:09PM -0400

John-Del wrote on 6/29/2017 10:23 PM:
 
> Phallus'n says this: I'm right and if you don't agree with me you're an autistic deranged fuckwit who should kill himself!!!
 
> Are you that delusional where you think anybody reading this NG would possibly agree with you Phil?
 
> I would suggest you take that toaster you're rebuilding and modifying and take it in the bathtub with you (plugged in), but since your trailer is so roach infested I doubt you even know what a bathtub is.
 
The problem with Phil is not that he rants and raves like a lunatic. The
problem is that people not only read his posts, they take them seriously as
if they *weren't* written by a deranged sociopath and respond! The
resulting conversations are *NEVER* productive resulting in a tirade of
insults and imbecilic retorts that demonstrate only the extent of his mental
illness. The conversations rage on with no useful content until everyone
finally tires of the insanity of it all and gives up the attempts at
rational discourse. Some people take longer than others.
 
--
 
Rick C
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 12 updates in 1 topic

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Jun 29 04:22AM -0700

tabb...@gmail.com wrote:
 
Really N.Thornton.
 
----------------------------
 
 
> then nothing will change
 
** The only clear thing is that YOU will not change.
 
Because you lack the capacity for any kind of self improvement.
 
 
BTW:
 
You never did explain why you tried to defend the criminal arseholes who were selling fake and useless Motorola power transistors ?
 
I accused you of involvement cos no other explanation seemed possible.
 
The you failed to explain your actual reason.
 
Were you involved ?
 
Or just being a total shithead, like now ?
 
 
 
..... Phil
tabbypurr@gmail.com: Jun 29 04:40AM -0700

On Thursday, 29 June 2017 12:22:20 UTC+1, Phil Allison wrote:
 
> ** The only clear thing is that YOU will not change.
 
> Because you lack the capacity for any kind of self improvement.
 
this is supposed to make you look sane?
 
 
 
> The you failed to explain your actual reason.
 
> Were you involved ?
 
> Or just being a total shithead, like now ?
 
Sometimes you're just bizarre. In case you actually are that confused, which is hard to believe, I have never been involved in producing or selling fake transistors or any other fake parts.
 
 
NT
Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Jun 29 04:51AM -0700

tabb...@gmail.com wrote:
 
Really N.Thornton.

----------------------------
 
 
 
> > Or just being a total shithead, like now ?
 
> Sometimes you're just bizarre.
 
** Mostly I make more good sense that you care or are able to acknowledge.

 
> In case you actually are that confused, which is hard to believe,
> I have never been involved in producing or selling fake transistors
> or any other fake parts.
 
** Good, I believe you.
 
Then explain what made you think it was clever to defend those who did ?
 
It was done over several posts and you were smug as hell about it.
 
There is nothing the *iniest bit funny* about Asian and US based criminals ripping off keen electronics hobbyists and honest repair industry folk like me.
 
Over to you...........
 
 
.... Phil
"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Jun 29 05:43AM -0700

....honest repair industry folk like me.
 
 
In the case of Mr. I-am-never-wrong Allison, the above is a contradiction-in-terms.
 
Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Jun 29 06:24AM -0700

pf...@aol.com wrote:
 
The Peter Wieck Ratbag Troll
------------------------------------
 
 
 
> ....honest repair industry folk like me.
 
> In the case of Mr. I-am-never-wrong Allison,
 
** Unlike the trolling, never right Wieck troll.
 
 
> the above is a contradiction-in-terms.
 
** That's low and very nasty.
 
You have no cause to infer dishonesty.
 
Wot a lying, fucking prick you are.
 
 
 
> Peter Wieck
> Melrose Park, PA
 
** And he stinks the place right up.
 
 
 
.... Phil
John-Del <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Jun 29 07:01AM -0700

On Wednesday, June 28, 2017 at 11:24:19 PM UTC-4, Phil Allison wrote:
 
> > http://www.gelighting.com/LightingWeb/apac/images/GE-Avoiding-Hot-Shock-Halogen-HIR_tcm281-33642.pdf
 
Phallus'n emanated the following from his bunghole:
 
 
> They are real pics published by folk who make and sell the lamps.
 
General Electric is one of the largest manufacturers of all kinds of lighting on the planet. Strangely, most folks who are not confined to an insane asylum would believe technical information from General Electric over some two-bit self aggrandized "technician" such as yourself.
 
This is what General Electric says about the subject:
 
"Unlike incandescent rough service or vibration service lamps, Halogen and HIR lamps are not equipped with filament supports because they would result in the de-rating of the life and lumens, and thusly defeat the purpose of providing extremely long life, energy savings and high lumen output. These features differentiate Halogen and HIR lamps from similar incandescent counterparts. However, these high performance lamps require more consideration and education when installing and aiming them."
 
Anyone who ever tried to use halogen lamps in portable clamp lights know they will be lucky to survive one minor bump, whereas even conventional incandescent lamps will survive several, and rough service incandescent lamps are extraordinarily tough.
 
GE says your wrong Phil. Everyone here *knows* you're a Wiki jockey. Do usenet a big favor and go back to fixing toasters and coffee makers and stop pretending to be playing with the big boys. Oh yeah, clean your trailer of roaches while you're at it...
 
https://groups.google.com/forum/?fromgroups=#!topic/sci.electronics.repair/YcNfjgMv6zw%5B1-25%5D
"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Jun 29 07:13AM -0700

** That's low and very nasty.
 
You have no cause to infer dishonesty.
 
Sorry. That is entirely accurate, and I have every right to infer dishonesty.
 
You cannot admit to any level of 'wrongness'. If you cannot be honest with yourself, you cannot be honest with others. Full stop,
 
Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Jun 29 07:13AM -0700

John-Del is Delusional wrote:
 
-------------------------------
 
> General Electric is one of the largest manufacturers of all kinds of lighting on the planet. Strangely, most folks who are not confined to an insane asylum would believe technical information from General Electric over some two-bit self aggrandized "technician" such as yourself.
 
 
** Fact id, I never posted a word on the topic - just a few pics that spoke for themselves.
 
Seems Mr Dell simply cannot see them.
 
Or prefers not to.
 
 
 
 
> This is what General Electric says about the subject:
 
** Yep, and GE are speaking only of their own products.
 
Not any others.
 
 
 
> GE says your wrong Phil.
 
** I never posted a word on the topic.
 
Just pics that cannot be denied.
 
 
 
> Everyone here *knows* you're a Wiki jockey.
 
 
** That would appear to be what you are.
 
Another Google Monkey with no brains.
 
 
BTW:
 
This guy is on something illegal for sure.
 
 
 
.... Phil
Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Jun 29 07:21AM -0700

pf...@aol.com wrote:
 
The Peter Wieck Fuckwit Troll
 
----------------------------------
 
 
> ** That's low and very nasty.
 
> You have no cause to infer dishonesty.
 
> Sorry. That is entirely accurate, and I have every right to infer dishonesty.
 
** You have in fact none at all - fuckhead.
 
 
> You cannot admit to any level of 'wrongness'.
 
** You have never shown me to be actually wrong.

OTOH, I have made you look like an idiot countless times.

A very easy thing to do.
 
 
 
> If you cannot be honest with yourself,
 
** That is your major failing - Peter.
 
You are incapable of seeing your own foolishness.
 
Narcissistic, autistic geriatrics never can.
 
They just repeat the exact same errors till they drop dead.
 
I hope & expect that will not take too long with you.
 
 
 
 
..... Phil
rickman <gnuarm@gmail.com>: Jun 29 10:50AM -0400

John-Del wrote on 6/29/2017 10:01 AM:
 
> Anyone who ever tried to use halogen lamps in portable clamp lights know they will be lucky to survive one minor bump, whereas even conventional incandescent lamps will survive several, and rough service incandescent lamps are extraordinarily tough.
 
> GE says your wrong Phil. Everyone here *knows* you're a Wiki jockey. Do usenet a big favor and go back to fixing toasters and coffee makers and stop pretending to be playing with the big boys. Oh yeah, clean your trailer of roaches while you're at it...
 
> https://groups.google.com/forum/?fromgroups=#!topic/sci.electronics.repair/YcNfjgMv6zw%5B1-25%5D
 
Interesting link. Not only does he have roaches, he seems to be a serial
WD-40 abuser. He likely started with isopropyl alcohol as a gateway cleaner
and worked his way up through commercial contact cleaners and pencil eraser
tips before using the "hard" stuff. Where's Jack Webb when you need him?
 
--
 
Rick C
John-Del <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Jun 29 08:49AM -0700

On Thursday, June 29, 2017 at 10:21:54 AM UTC-4, Phallus'n belched:
 
 
> ** You have never shown me to be actually wrong.
 
We don't need to go to far, you're wrong on this thread.
 

> ** That is your major failing - Peter.
 
There are so few humans alive with your bouquet of human failures Phil, not the least the ability to recognize yourself in your accusations of others.
 
 
**You are incapable of seeing your own foolishness.
 
 
Pot; meet Kettle...
 
You are incapable of not only seeing your own foolishness, but any of your many other human failings including (but certainly not limited to) your hateful vile demeanor. You've infested many NGs with your stench and you don't realize it's coming from you. Every newsgroup you pollute becomes something less for your involvement.
 
You're the only one here who doesn't see that Peter is a gentleman and quality human being. Everyone else sees you as a piece of shit who clearly has been abusing WD40 propellant. Don't you have a toaster to rewire?
rickman <gnuarm@gmail.com>: Jun 29 12:16PM -0400

John-Del wrote on 6/29/2017 11:49 AM:
 
> Pot; meet Kettle...
 
> You are incapable of not only seeing your own foolishness, but any of your many other human failings including (but certainly not limited to) your hateful vile demeanor. You've infested many NGs with your stench and you don't realize it's coming from you. Every newsgroup you pollute becomes something less for your involvement.
 
> You're the only one here who doesn't see that Peter is a gentleman and quality human being. Everyone else sees you as a piece of shit who clearly has been abusing WD40 propellant. Don't you have a toaster to rewire?
 
Do you also make fun of homeless people on the street and other mentally ill
people? Why pick on Phil. It's not like he has any control over his posts.
Clearly he is ill and needs our support, not reproach.
 
--
 
Rick C
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 25 updates in 1 topic

"Ian Field" <gangprobing.alien1@virginmedia.com>: Jun 28 06:52PM +0100

"Phil Allison" <pallison49@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:ba045e58-cc1a-4c2c-91ea-5be70e72b5c3@googlegroups.com...
 
> ** Any fact whatever would be HUGE surprise to a fuckwit like you.
 
>> if stage lighting is over run for short periods
 
> ** Errr - dimmers only dim lamps down, not up.
 
They don't get any dimmer than you - some stage lighting used variacs that
went up to 110%.
"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Jun 28 12:04PM -0700

It is often assumed that incandescent and halogen light bulbs are completely different technologies. In fact, halogen is just a hybrid incandescent.
 
Both types of light bulbs use a tungsten filament. Both "burn out" when the filament breaks. Both use line and low voltage the same way.
 
Also, both incandescent and halogen bulbs can be dimmed. But here's the interesting twist: the more a halogen bulb is dimmed, the more it becomes an incandescent light bulb again.
 
How Incandescent and Halogen Differ
The standard incandescent bulb is filled with a mixture of argon gas and a small amount of nitrogen gas. Inside this gas mix, the tungsten filament, heated to "incandescence", slowly evaporates. Thinner portions of the filament get hotter and they evaporate more quickly. The evaporated tungsten deposits on the inside wall of the glass. Eventually, the filament evaporates so much tungsten that it breaks or "burns out".
 
A halogen bulb mimics the technology of incandescent except for two features. First, the filament and gas are contained in a quartz capsule resistant to high temperature. Second, a halogen gas such as bromine or iodine is added to the gas mix. With this gas mixture and higher filament temperatures, a chemical change occurs to the tungsten filament evaporation process. Instead of depositing the evaporated tungsten on the bulb glass, it is deposited instead back onto the filament itself. This process of filament regeneration is known as the halogen cycle. It can double the life of an incandescent bulb.
 
In short the primary difference between halogen and incandescent is the existence of the halogen cycle operating in a quartz capsule.
 
Dimming Halogen Lights and Bulb Life
That brings us back to dimming.
 
Dimming works the same way for both incandescent and halogen. Lower the filament temperature by modifying the voltage and get progressively less light output. The halogen cycle works only at high filament temperatures. If the halogen bulb is dimmed enough (down to only 20% less light), the filament temperature drops and the halogen cycle stops. At that point, it is operating in "incandescent mode" with evaporated tungsten being deposited on the capsule wall rather than back on the filament.
 
Tip: While dimming often lengthens the life of incandescent bulbs, it may shorten the life of halogen bulbs and cause darkening of the quartz capsule.
 
Thanks to: David Burtner
 
http://www.topbulb.com/blog/dimming-alters-halogen-cycle/
 
Key Points:
 
a) Halogen lamps are hybrid incandescent lamps. We knew that.
b) The "Halogen Cycle" redeposits tungsten on the filament as compared to a standard incandescent lamp that gradually evaporates the tungsten.
c) The halogen cycle stops at around 20% LESS LIGHT. That would be at/around 80% of full light. Whereupon the lamp behaves as a standard incandescent lamp.
d) With all this in mind, a halogen lamp may be dimmed with the same technology, means and methods as a standard incandescent lamp. Primary effects are on life-span. The failure modes are unchanged, eventually the filament fails.
 
It ain't nohow rocket science.
 
Anyone with even a passing experience with lighting already knows all this -as well as even the lowliest sweeper at any given electrical supply house.
 
Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
tabbypurr@gmail.com: Jun 28 01:58PM -0700


> Anyone with even a passing experience with lighting already knows all this -as well as even the lowliest sweeper at any given electrical supply house.
 
> Peter Wieck
> Melrose Park, PA
 
Since dimming is usually done at assorted levels, the above effect has sod all effect on lamp life in the real world in most cases.
 
 
NT
"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Jun 28 02:05PM -0700


> Since dimming is usually done at assorted levels, the above effect has sod all effect on lamp life in the real world in most cases.
 
Suffice it that if a halogen lamp operates at <80% of nominal voltage, the halogen effect (tungsten vapor re-depositing on the filament) will not take place - however that reduction-in-voltage occurs.
 
Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
John-Del <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Jun 28 02:07PM -0700


> Anyone with even a passing experience with lighting already knows all this -as well as even the lowliest sweeper at any given electrical supply house.
 
> Peter Wieck
> Melrose Park, PA
 
 
One more thing: if you look at a halogen lamp crosseyed the filament will fail from the shock of your stare.. The filaments are not supported as they are in a standard incandescent lamp so they must not be subject to shock or vibration.
tabbypurr@gmail.com: Jun 28 05:16PM -0700

> On Wednesday, June 28, 2017 at 4:58:08 PM UTC-4, tabby wrote:
 
> > Since dimming is usually done at assorted levels, the above effect has sod all effect on lamp life in the real world in most cases.
 
> Suffice it that if a halogen lamp operates at <80% of nominal voltage, the
 
I thought you said 80% of light output, an entirely different point to 80% of voltage
 
> halogen effect (tungsten vapor re-depositing on the filament) will not take place - however that reduction-in-voltage occurs.
 
At 80% voltage that would be an irrelevance. I presumed yuo know your filament lamp equations, now I'm not sure.
 
 
NT
tabbypurr@gmail.com: Jun 28 05:17PM -0700

On Wednesday, 28 June 2017 22:07:13 UTC+1, John-Del wrote:
 
> One more thing: if you look at a halogen lamp crosseyed the filament will fail from the shock of your stare.. The filaments are not supported as they are in a standard incandescent lamp so they must not be subject to shock or vibration.
 
Ah, that'll be why they've been so popular as car headlamps.
It's the thin mains 50w ones that don't like vibration.
 
 
NT
Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Jun 28 05:30PM -0700

Ian Field the Fuckwit Bullshit Artist wrote:
 
---------------------------------------------
 
> > ** Errr - dimmers only dim lamps down, not up.
 
> They don't get any dimmer than you - some stage lighting used variacs that
> went up to 110%.
 
** Long in the past when there were no halogen lamps involved.
 
You fuckwit, lying POS.
 
 
.... Phil
Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Jun 28 05:50PM -0700

The Peter Wieck bullshit artist wrote:
 
-------------------------------------------
 
( snil pil eof bollocks)
 
> Thanks to: David Burtner
 
> http://www.topbulb.com/blog/dimming-alters-halogen-cycle/
 
** Why on earth post that idiot article here???
 
It contains way more fiction than fact.

 
> It ain't nohow rocket science.
 
> Anyone with even a passing experience with lighting already knows all this -as well as even the lowliest sweeper at any given electrical supply house.
 
** Bollocks.
 
How many halogen down lights are in domestic use round the world?
 
The vast majority are being used with dimmers.
 
Uses get several times more life by doing so.
 
Burtner is a bullshitting fool.
 
Like you.
 
 
 
.... Phil
John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Jun 28 06:35PM -0700

On 2017/06/26 9:52 PM, Phil Allison wrote:
 
> Having a thick filament makes a halogen lamp last longer.
 
> ..... Phil
 
Well, I must confess I've never studied halogen bulbs on dimmers but
reading Lutron's site does not give any concerns from them about
halogens on dimmers in household use:
 
http://www.lutron.com/en-US/Education-Training/Pages/LCE/DimmingBasics.aspx
 
I would like to assume that you are correct, Phil. One problem though -
your reference source says:
 
"With a reduced voltage the evaporation is lower and there may be too
much halogen, which can lead to abnormal failure."
 
and also:
 
"There are many situations where halogen lamps are dimmed successfully.
However, lamp life may not be extended as much as predicted. The life
span on dimming depends on lamp construction, the halogen additive used
and whether dimming is normally expected for this type."
 
So, perhaps theatre halogen bulbs are designed to be dimmed?
 
http://stagelightingprimer.com/slfs-light_sources.html
 
Perhaps not, they don't mind of the bulb lasts a shorter time, but want
the brightness in a compact source.
 
Also, are house halogen bulbs designed to be dimmed?
 
Philips bulbs seem to be (perhaps...):
 
http://www.philips.ca/c-m-li/halogen-light-bulbs
 
"Halogen lamps are designed to operate at very high temperatures to
ensure optimal performance. Dimming at above 60% of the rated volts can
be done. It is recommended to revert to full brightness for one minute
prior to switching the lamps off."
 
In other words do not run them above 60% of rated line voltage for
extended times without heating/running them at 100% for one minute prior
to turning off. I am SURE everyone will do that!
 
A double blind test would be nice to put this to bed.
 
John :-#)#
Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Jun 28 06:36PM -0700

John-Delusional wrote:
 
---------------------------

> fail from the shock of your stare.. The filaments are not supported as
> they are in a standard incandescent lamp so they must not be subject to
> shock or vibration.
 
** See pics of 150W halogen tube lamps:
 
http://www.destinationlighting.com/images/products_zoom/549/13549~zoom.jpg
 
 
http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/productImages/1000/b7/b7e4d552-8a07-4441-a54c-0c250efeef67_1000.jpg
 
https://images.musicstore.de/images/1600/omnilux-halogen-lamp-bulb-g-6-35-150-watts-24-volts_1_LIG0000456-000.jpg
 
How about a 1000W one:
 
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/6174-2HVwIL._SL1500_.jpg
 
 
 
 
.... Phil
tabbypurr@gmail.com: Jun 28 06:43PM -0700

On Thursday, 29 June 2017 01:30:26 UTC+1, Phil Allison wrote:
> Ian Field wrote:
 
> > >> > That may be your belief. IRL halogen stage lighting works just fine.
snip
 
> > They don't get any dimmer than you - some stage lighting used variacs that
> > went up to 110%.
 
> ** Long in the past when there were no halogen lamps involved.
 
Yes. I'm not sure how tolerant halogens would be of +10%.
 
> You fuckwit, lying POS.
 
no, just short on knowledge.
 
 
NT
tabbypurr@gmail.com: Jun 28 06:51PM -0700

On Thursday, 29 June 2017 02:35:41 UTC+1, John Robertson wrote:
 
> to turning off. I am SURE everyone will do that!
 
> A double blind test would be nice to put this to bed.
 
> John :-#)#
 
I fear you're taking a seller's waffle too seriously. Such things can be offloading liability and/or feigning expertise. The simple reality is halogens have been dimmed by all percentages in massive numbers and problems have not resulted. (I might feel like addressing the specific points raised another day.)
 
 
NT
tabbypurr@gmail.com: Jun 28 06:53PM -0700

On Thursday, 29 June 2017 02:36:55 UTC+1, Phil Allison wrote:
 
> How about a 1000W one:
 
> http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/6174-2HVwIL._SL1500_.jpg
 
> .... Phil
 
Both types exist, with supports & without.
 
 
NT
Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Jun 28 06:58PM -0700

John Robertson is a Google Monkey
 
-----------------------------------
 
 
> So, perhaps theatre halogen bulbs are designed to be dimmed?
 
** Perhaps your fat arse is on fire ?
 
Ever think of that?
 
 

> ensure optimal performance. Dimming at above 60% of the rated volts can
> be done. It is recommended to revert to full brightness for one minute
> prior to switching the lamps off."
 
** Drivel, not real information.
 
 
> In other words do not run them above 60% of rated line voltage for
> extended times without heating/running them at 100% for one minute prior
> to turning off. I am SURE everyone will do that!
 
 
** The false warning is about running halogen BELOW 60% rated voltage.
 
60% equates to about 10 to 15% of normal light output which is very dim.
 

BTW:
 
Ever see or use a halogen down light?
 
Standard practice is to run them off dimmers at any level you like.
 
Googling finds you every piece of misinformation that ever existed.
 
 
 
.... Phil
Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Jun 28 07:23PM -0700

tabb...@gmail.com wrote:
 
--------------------------
 
 
> You fuckwit, lying POS.
 
> no, just short on knowledge.
 
** Ian Field is a prize fuckwit, a congenital liar and a POS.
 
He makes facts up and uses false logic constantly.
 
He is clearly an autistic dim wit.

Just like thousands of other internet trolls.
 
 
 
 
..... Phil
tabbypurr@gmail.com: Jun 28 07:42PM -0700

On Thursday, 29 June 2017 03:23:20 UTC+1, Phil Allison wrote:
 
> He makes facts up and uses false logic constantly.
 
> He is clearly an autistic dim wit.
 
> Just like thousands of other internet trolls.
 
That interpretation is partly why you get so angry over so little.
 
 
NT
John-Del <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Jun 28 07:45PM -0700

On Wednesday, June 28, 2017 at 9:36:55 PM UTC-4, Phil Allison wrote:
 
> .... Phil
 
 
Here Phallusun, read this:
 
http://www.gelighting.com/LightingWeb/apac/images/GE-Avoiding-Hot-Shock-Halogen-HIR_tcm281-33642.pdf
 
 
Since this is not on Wikipedia (your go-to source of your "knowledge"), you might learn something about halogen and rough service. And when you're done reading it, print it out several dozen copies, roll them up and stick them firmly up you ass where it might do the rest of us some good. How many newsgroups do you have to pollute with your anal emanations before you realize that it's YOU.
Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Jun 28 08:11PM -0700

tabb...@gmail.com wrote:
 
----------------------------
 
Phil Allison wrote:
 
> > He is clearly an autistic dim wit.
 
> > Just like thousands of other internet trolls.
 
> That interpretation ...
 
** It ain't no "interpretation" - pal.
 
Field is a public menace on usenet and elsewhere too, I bet.
 
FYI:
 
I do not get angry, that is YOUR misinterpretation.
 
But I reserve the RIGHT to publicly out and thoroughly condemn
bullshit artists and trolls.
 
Seems YOU have trouble even identifying them.
 
 
 
.... Phil
Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Jun 28 08:24PM -0700

John-Delusional Fuckwit wrote:

---------------------------------
 

 
> http://www.gelighting.com/LightingWeb/apac/images/GE-Avoiding-Hot-Shock-Halogen-HIR_tcm281-33642.pdf
 
** You can see the links to several pics that I posted ?
 
All of them show halogen tube lamps with multiple filament supports.
 
They are real pics published by folk who make and sell the lamps.
 
You can see them ??
 
 
 
Wot a fucking MORON.
 
 
..... Phil
Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Jun 28 09:25PM -0700

Phil Allison wrote:
 
----------------------
 
 
 
> https://images.musicstore.de/images/1600/omnilux-halogen-lamp-bulb-g-6-35-150-watts-24-volts_1_LIG0000456-000.jpg
 
> How about a 1000W one:
 
> http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/6174-2HVwIL._SL1500_.jpg
 
** Here is a Sylvania 42W halogen replacement for a standard GLS bulb:
 
https://media.tradezone.com.au/images/still/650/650/18579/30.jpg
 
Note how the filament passes over a glass support bridge at the top of the small envelope. Most of the filament is coiled but the section over the bridge is not.
 
 
.... Phil
John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Jun 28 10:32PM -0700

On 2017/06/28 6:58 PM, Phil Allison wrote:
 
>> So, perhaps theatre halogen bulbs are designed to be dimmed?
 
> ** Perhaps your fat arse is on fire ?
 
> Ever think of that?
 
Not sure what that has to do with the question raised by your source
(wikipedia) where the point was raised that theatre lighting had their
own expectations about the use of halogen bulbs.
 
>> be done. It is recommended to revert to full brightness for one minute
>> prior to switching the lamps off."
 
> ** Drivel, not real information.
 
Excuse me Phil, but I was quoting from YOUR wikipedia reference source,
not mine.
 
>> extended times without heating/running them at 100% for one minute prior
>> to turning off. I am SURE everyone will do that!
 
> ** The false warning is about running halogen BELOW 60% rated voltage.
 
Not the same thing, they are using the word above to mean above 60% of
rated voltage, not below 60% rated voltage. At least that was how I read
your source - the wikipedia article quoted by you in previous email.
Which I read.
 
 
> BTW:
 
> Ever see or use a halogen down light?
 
> Standard practice is to run them off dimmers at any level you like.
 
Of course, people will do whatever they like - that was not the
question. The original question was was it a good idea to run halogen
lights on dimmers and would it adversely affect their rated life span.
 
 
> Googling finds you every piece of misinformation that ever existed.
 
> ..... Phil
 
You may be an excellent designer of electronics, but are you a halogen
lighting expert too? Or are you (like me) just putting forward opinion
based on personal research and/or anecdotal experiences? This is
supposed to be a learning tool for all concerned after all, is it not?
 
John
Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Jun 29 12:09AM -0700

John Robertson is a Moronic Google Monkey
 
-----------------------------------------
 
> > ** Perhaps your fat arse is on fire ?
 
> > Ever think of that?
 
> Not sure what that has to do with the question raised by your source
 
** It was not my "source" - fool.
 
 
 
> (wikipedia) where the point was raised that theatre lighting had their
> own expectations about the use of halogen bulbs.
 
** Says nothing like that.

Quote, do not rephrase.
 
 
 
 
> > ** Drivel, not real information.
 
> Excuse me Phil,
 
** Never.
 
 
> but I was quoting from YOUR wikipedia reference source,
 
 
** That is NOT from any Wiki.
 
Some industry crap YOU dragged up Google monkeying.
 
Do pay attention.
 
 
 
> > ** The false warning is about running halogen BELOW 60% rated voltage.
 
> Not the same thing,
 
** FFS - you are illiterate & stupid.
 
 
 
 
> > Standard practice is to run them off dimmers at any level you like.
 
> Of course, people will do whatever they like - that was not the
> question.
 
** But it is the answer to the question - you fool.
 
 
> The original question was was it a good idea to run halogen
> lights on dimmers and would it adversely affect their rated life span.
 
 
** And we have overwhelming proof there is no such problem from the MILLIONS of householders successfully doing it every day.
 
Are you blind by any chance?
 
 
 
> > Googling finds you every piece of misinformation that ever existed.
 
** Copy out the above line 1000 times before you go to bed.
 
 
 
> You may be an excellent designer of electronics, but are you a halogen
> lighting expert too?
 
** Yep, some of my customers own large lighting rigs using mainly 500W and 1000W halogen lamps. I get to service their dimmers and boards and see the lamps operating too.
 
Halogen lamps are used in slide projectors, bought one of them in 1976.
 
One of my workshop lamps uses is a 150W halogen tube, I get to replace it every once in a while. 12V down lights are all halogen.
 
The buggers are all around me so I take a strong interest.
 
Go away, fool.
 
 
...... Phil
John-Del <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Jun 29 04:11AM -0700

On Thursday, June 29, 2017 at 12:25:16 AM UTC-4, Phil Allison wrote:
tabbypurr@gmail.com: Jun 29 04:12AM -0700

On Thursday, 29 June 2017 04:11:09 UTC+1, Phil Allison wrote:
 
> > > Just like thousands of other internet trolls.
 
> > That interpretation ...
 
> ** It ain't no "interpretation" - pal.
 
then nothing will change
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