Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 5 updates in 2 topics

John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Sep 29 10:06AM -0700

On 2018/09/28 8:44 PM, The Real Bev wrote:
> there's a per-house charge of $5 and $3 in taxes.  I don't think we'll
> break even with the savings  in our lifetime, but it's worth something
> to not have to deal with the tanks ever again.
 
Hot water tanks typically corrode out in ten years, so if yours is
anywhere near that age it is best to replace it if it has already
stopped working. If still working put a water leakage detector under it
and keep the batteries fresh!
 
Go with a good name brand tankless that has a reputation for good
support, and find out how resistant to corrosion it is, this would be my
primary concern.
 
John :-#)#
--
(Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup)
John's Jukes Ltd.
MOVED to #7 - 3979 Marine Way, Burnaby, BC, Canada V5J 5E3
(604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
www.flippers.com
"Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."
Jerry Peters <jerry@example.invalid>: Sep 29 08:16PM


> Go with a good name brand tankless that has a reputation for good
> support, and find out how resistant to corrosion it is, this would be my
> primary concern.
 
This is important! Ask This Old House had a segment where Richard
replaced an old tankles with a new one because the manufacterer had
gone out of business leaving the old wh un-repairable.
 
Stephen Wolstenholme <steve@easynn.com>: Sep 30 09:03AM +0100

On Sat, 29 Sep 2018 10:06:40 -0700, John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>
wrote:
 
>anywhere near that age it is best to replace it if it has already
>stopped working. If still working put a water leakage detector under it
>and keep the batteries fresh!
 
The first house I bought had a copper hot water tank that was
installed when the house was built in 1911. It had never been
replaced.
 
>Go with a good name brand tankless that has a reputation for good
>support, and find out how resistant to corrosion it is, this would be my
>primary concern.
 
I now have a house with a Combi gas boiler that has no tank. The water
gets heated on demand. The it takes about five seconds to heat the
water.
 
Steve
 
--
http://www.npsnn.com
Lee <cyberwitch@ukonline.net>: Sep 30 02:59PM +0100

On 28/09/2018 20:15, The Real Bev wrote:
> need a huge quantity of hot water at any one time and the tankless ones
> seem cheaper than the normal ones which eventually solidify with SoCal
> hard-water crap.
 
Surprised no one has yet pointed out that if the water is that hard then
you will need to choose a model with a Teflon coated (or similar) heat
exchanger or it too will scale up eventually.
thekmanrocks@gmail.com: Sep 29 05:48PM -0700

Allodoxaphobia:
 
Boomboxes, at least those of the golden era
(late 1970s to mid 1980s) have largely run
their course on the thrift store and yard sale
circuit. Most are now sold only on line, or
at shows like Kutztown/Renninger's. What
I have seen at tag sales lately is not pretty.
 
 
So I'll just have to make sure I have those
two days free in May and in Sept. of next
year. The three hour drive might just be
worth it!
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 7 updates in 2 topics

The Real Bev <bashley101@gmail.com>: Sep 28 12:15PM -0700

I ask here because the home repair group is worthless and you guys are
smart.
 
Anybody see a downside to a natural-gas tankless water heater? We don't
need a huge quantity of hot water at any one time and the tankless ones
seem cheaper than the normal ones which eventually solidify with SoCal
hard-water crap.
 
--
Cheers, Bev
"Tell someone you love them today, because life is short.
But scream it at them in Klingon, because life is also
terrifying and confusing." -- D. Moore
dansabrservices@yahoo.com: Sep 28 12:38PM -0700

While I don't have gas, I can relate my own experience with tankless systems (oil in this case).
 
I recently (3 years ago) replaced an old (26 year) furnace that was tankless for hot water. I now have a more efficient system with a separate hot water tank. The tank looks like a heating zone to the furnace. The difference here is that the furnace now holds about 1 gallon of water in it. The old one had 2.5 or more. Since the heat exchanger resides on the top of the furnace, the exhaust passes it as well. This means that when not running, the heat continues to go up the chimney. This in turn makes each call for water to require to heat up the internal water as well as what is used.
 
Now, the hot water is in a large tank (like a thermos bottle) that doesnot lose heat (at least not much). With no change in use (I heat with wood so this is only used for hot water), I have reduced my oil consumption by 80%.
The furnace may run periodically to keep the water hot, but only when it is called for.
 
The oil company hates me now. Even with heating with wood, I would fill the tank multiple times per year. In the last 3 years, I have used less than 300 gal of oil per year down from over 1200-1600. At this rate, the new furnace will be paid from savings by the end of next year, a 4.5 year payback.
 
I would recommend using a separate hot water tank for the most savings.
 
Dan
"pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Sep 28 01:11PM -0700

On Friday, September 28, 2018 at 3:15:41 PM UTC-4, The Real Bev wrote:
 
> need a huge quantity of hot water at any one time and the tankless ones
> seem cheaper than the normal ones which eventually solidify with SoCal
> hard-water crap.
 
I will give you two perspectives:
 
a) At our summer house, we have a Bosch instant-hot LP-fired water heater. It has been in place now for over 10 years and is flawless. It makes infinite hot water for a small house - one full bath, kitchen and outside shower. It is fed from a shallow well, again with no issues at all.
 
Upside: NO storage of hot water. 90%+ efficient.
Downside: There is a definite threshold before the flame starts, so those who dribble-rinse their dishes will be unhappy. And turning the water on and off leaves a (small) gap of cold water with each flame-start.
 
At the main house, we have a Weil-Mclain Ultra boiler with an indirect storage tank (40 gallons) that is super-insulated. As the boiler is 230,000 BTU, it can more than keep up with any demand, but the storage maintains a precisely even temperature irrespective of demand and incoming temperature. The boiler is 96% efficient, and we heat a 5,000 s.f. 1890-vintage center-hall colonial with no difficulty at all.
 
I would never go back to a conventional storage water heater, again.
 
Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
jurb6006@gmail.com: Sep 28 04:21PM -0700

I've only seen gas ones. Actually I saw one advertised for about $ 250 which I think is reasonable if it is reliable.
 
From what I recollect you need a 1" gas line to it, and on top of flue (which is cool enough to use PVC I think)you need a fresh air intake otherwise whenever it runs it creates a sight vacuum pulling in air that is not heated nor cooled to your satisfaction. The next one here might be a tankless, we got a 1½" gas line right near the existing tank.
 
I don't know about electric ones, but common sense tells that they pull alot of juice. You might actually need to upgrade your service unless it is already new enough. No flue or intake though, which you would need not just for gas, but for LP, propane, anything that burns.
 
If you install it yourself, fuck all that noise about a pipe threader, get the precut, threaded gas (sometimes called "black") pipe and then the unit goes where it goes and you adjust the water lines to accomodate. Almost anything is easier to deal with than thickwall 1" steel pipe.
 
If the existing tank here goes I will know alot more because we do not call contractors, well except for roofing and concrete and not all the time for that either. The houses of almost everyone we know are worked on by me, or Jack if he gets back into it.
The Real Bev <bashley101@gmail.com>: Sep 28 08:44PM -0700

> in air that is not heated nor cooled to your satisfaction. The next
> one here might be a tankless, we got a 1½" gas line right near the
> existing tank.
 
OK, you guys have convinced me that they're OK.
 
Our tank-heater refuses to light, and we've had it long enough that it's
probably been reduced to half the original volume. Google has
igniter-changing videos, but that looks painful for people who don't
like kneeling/lying on the floor. The gas company guy is coming Monday
to take a look, and I assume he can tell us what additional stuff we
might need and maybe roughly how much it will cost to have one installed.
 
I do dishes maybe once a week, and I'm pretty tolerant.
 
I just looked at our gas bill. The gas costs $12/month (13 therms),
there's a per-house charge of $5 and $3 in taxes. I don't think we'll
break even with the savings in our lifetime, but it's worth something
to not have to deal with the tanks ever again.
 
--
Cheers, Bev
"Usenet is like a herd of performing elephants with diarrhea:
massive, difficult to redirect, awe-inspiring, entertaining,
and a source of mind-boggling amounts of excrement when you
least expect it." --Gene Spafford (1992)
"pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Sep 28 10:06AM -0700

On Friday, September 28, 2018 at 12:25:37 PM UTC-4, Terry Schwartz wrote:
> I think you will find that many of us are "only technicians".....
 
 
Some of us, not even that. Just hobbyists.
 
Typically, well-grounded in the practical, however.
 
And, I dunno, our neighbor has a garage door with a floor switch tied to his home-security system. It indicates on his keypad, and if he tries to arm with it open, it announces "Garage Door Open". I expect that two inches open = Open, but were I to bother with garage doors, I would want to know if it were open even a little bit.
 
Point being that this is an off-the-shelf device
 
https://www.amazon.com/Overhead-Garage-System-Contact-Mounted/dp/B01KY938HS
 
Or, even one of those automated doorbells that rings several hundred feet away when a door opens.
 
No muss, no fuss.
 
Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
Terry Schwartz <tschw10117@aol.com>: Sep 28 10:44AM -0700


> No muss, no fuss.
 
> Peter Wieck
> Melrose Park, PA
 
That's a very similar magnetic switch to the one I installed. Only I placed mine at the top of the door, on the header. Magnet is on the door itself. A lesson learned is do NOT buy the cheap 50 cent plastic bodied magnetic alarm switches, buy the good quality switches as shown. Save yourself a ton of aggravation.
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 12 updates in 3 topics

OGER <OGER@NoPlace.com>: Sep 27 11:27AM -0700

I did not realize that this is a conspiracy theory newsgroup.
 
A bunch of idiots reside here !
 
OGER wrote:
OGER <"OGER "@NoPlace.com>: Sep 27 11:31AM -0700

Mine is a tilt up door that the wind will wiggle so a magnetic switch
probably will not remain aligned.
 
anyway, for $12, I get a PIR transmitter and receiver with a specific
channel assignment. No wiring between them is required. battery life
is over a year for the xmtr since I use an external battery pack.
 
I currently use such a setup to monitor motion in my home and the xmtr
gets activate many times during the day proving battery life.
 
 
Terry Schwartz wrote:
OGER <OGER@NoPlace.com>: Sep 27 11:34AM -0700

Obviuosly so I could see if I could remove the PIR detector and
substitute a mercury switch for garage door tilt up.
 
Modify the receiver to eliminate the sounder and substitute brighter
LEDs for the three that currently are part of the design.
 
John S wrote:
"pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Sep 27 11:43AM -0700

How to win friends and influence people!
 
Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
Phil Hobbs <pcdhSpamMeSenseless@electrooptical.net>: Sep 27 02:50PM -0400

> How to win friends and influence people!
 
> Peter Wieck
> Melrose Park, PA
 
If he continues on the usual trajectory, next he'll start bragging about
how much smarter he is.
 
Cheers
 
Phil Hobbs
John S <Sophi.2@invalid.org>: Sep 27 04:04PM -0500

On 9/27/2018 1:34 PM, OGER wrote:
 
>>> Taking a driveway PIR xmtr to modify for other purposes with no actual
>>> internal mods.
 
>> The why did you post that you needed a schematic?
 
That was never mentioned until now. How could it be obvious? I'm
thinking you are a troll.
 
*plonk*
OGER <OGER@OGERplace.com>: Sep 28 08:37AM -0700

I am not a troll but I can see that many here have big prejudice problems.
Some think they are so smart and they are generating fake news right here.
 
I come here seeking help to a problem and get hog wash.
 
A few did make some suggestion worth investigating. Thanks to them.
 
Strange group here.
 
A friend of mine gave me the best suggestion and he is only a technician.
Terry Schwartz <tschw10117@aol.com>: Sep 28 09:25AM -0700

I think you will find that many of us are "only technicians".....
 
On Friday, September 28, 2018 at 10:37:07 AM UTC-5, OGER wrote:
JBI <JBI@ez1.net>: Sep 28 08:46AM -0400

I have owned this laptop for a good number of years now. I actually
have two of them and keep one as a standby in case the other isn't
working plus there's one other issue and that is on the one, I
occasionally lose sound.
 
This has been going on since it was new. Sound will cut out for no
reason and the only way to restore is with a reboot. Over the years,
the hard drive has been replaced and new OS installed. I use dual boot
either Win or Ubuntu and it doesn't matter as sound will sometimes cut
out on either OS. The motherboard was also replaced within the first
three years and the problem persists.
 
So, it's obviously a hardware issue, but where? If I had one wish, it
would be to fix the problem once and for all!
 
Thanks for your help.
John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Sep 28 06:38AM -0700

On 2018/09/28 5:46 AM, JBI wrote:
 
> So, it's obviously a hardware issue, but where?  If I had one wish, it
> would be to fix the problem once and for all!
 
> Thanks for your help.
 
When the sound next cuts out try inserting and then removing a
headphone/speaker pin plug into the remote speaker socket. Might be a
dirty switch on the socket...
 
John :-#)#
 
--
(Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup)
John's Jukes Ltd.
MOVED to #7 - 3979 Marine Way, Burnaby, BC, Canada V5J 5E3
(604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
www.flippers.com
"Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."
Michael Black <mblack@pubnix.net>: Sep 27 01:50PM -0400


> Now I regret not having gone! I hope
> next year's shows are as prolific, boombox
> wise.
 
I don't think it works that way.
 
ONe year at the oldest and largest local used book sale, I came upon some
technical books, including a 4th edition of the Radiotron Designer's
Handbook. All only a few dollars each. That got me excited, I hadn't
paid attention to that section before. And I did after that, and never
saw that sort of book there again.
 
Hobby electronic books would appear every few years, but nothing
significant. There was no trending.
 
But I know that finding something I really want makes me hope. Whether
it's a book sale or garage sale, finding something really good pulls me
along, it gets me excited and I keep at it, hoping to find some of the
same, and inevitably it doesn't, though usually I find something else
that's interesting and exciting.
 
Though, for about a decade, I was finding shortwave receivers every year,
recnt and old, all for under ten dollars. I even saw that Astronaut 7
that I had decided I wanted, after finding a lone copy of ELementary
Electronics with the radio advertised on the back cover. But it was
plugged in and being used, so I assume it wasn't for sale, but probably I
should have asked. But it was a good run, both a Grundig 500 and 700, a
Sony SW-1 with accessories in the "suitcase", some older fairly generic
portables that included a shortwave band or two, and the TMC GPR-90 for
$20 which was the only tube receiver I saw during that priod. The last
one was about 2016, an early seventies Panasoic (I think) portable that
looked like a piece of stereo equipment, but was a multiband portable.
 
So the search never ends, who knows what you'll find tomorrow. Just
yesterday I found a CD that is a fairly popular album, but I've never seen
it on CD in the used market.
 
Michael
Allodoxaphobia <knock_yourself_out@example.net>: Sep 28 01:37AM

On Thu, 27 Sep 2018 13:50:40 -0400, Michael Black wrote:
 
> So the search never ends, who knows what you'll find tomorrow. Just
> yesterday I found a CD that is a fairly popular album, but I've never seen
> it on CD in the used market.
 
Keep alert!
 
I work as a volunteer in a used book store operated by The Friends Of
The Library. Over the last year or so we've seen a Big Uptick in book
donations from Baby Boomers that are now moving on to assisted living or
nursing homes -- or just downsizing their housing. Many times it all
comes from their offspring who are in a hurry to clean out the house and
sell it. So, there seems to be little regard to the valuation.
 
(Sadly, a Great Percentage is comprised of
baby boomer college text books -- and worthless.)
 
So, I would assume a lot of the "stuff" covered in the OP and followups
is out there to be discovered. Unfortunately "they" might find it more
convenient and simple to toss it in the Roll-Off Roll-On dumpster along
with the bean bag chairs, lava lamps, shag carpet, and 8-track decks.
 
But, keep trolling the second hand stores! (... or, dumpster dive!)
 
Jonesy
--
Marvin L Jones | Marvin | W3DHJ.net | linux
38.238N 104.547W | @ jonz.net | Jonesy | FreeBSD
* Killfiling google & XXXXbanter.com: jonz.net/ng.htm
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 9 updates in 3 topics

thekmanrocks@gmail.com: Sep 26 12:28PM -0700

> Vintage 'boom boxes'?
 
There were, perhaps, 15+ boom boxes that I saw more-or-less equally distributed through both pavilions, from a very nice looking, quite large Grundig to a "Sonic" approximately the size of a modern aircraft carrier. "
 
Thanks for scouting! Not a bad number.
Get a feel for prices on them? I will
seriously consider attending May or
September's show next year if at least
a dozen boom boxes are in attendance.
John-Del <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Sep 26 01:20PM -0700

> seriously consider attending May or
> September's show next year if at least
> a dozen boom boxes are in attendance.
 
What's your fancy? I have a few in storage that I'd be willing to unload if you pay the freight. These would be 90s vintage.
thekmanrocks@gmail.com: Sep 26 02:56PM -0700

John Del:
 
Early 80s, must have four-band(AM-FM-SW1+2) tuner
and RCAs for external inputs.
John-Del <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Sep 27 04:40AM -0700

> John Del:
 
> Early 80s, must have four-band(AM-FM-SW1+2) tuner
> and RCAs for external inputs.
 
 
The ones I have generally have CDs and cassettes, which probably place them in the 90s somewhere. I'll check next week.
"pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Sep 27 05:20AM -0700

> seriously consider attending May or
> September's show next year if at least
> a dozen boom boxes are in attendance.
 
The Grundig wanted serious $$, asking was $200. The rest were all under $100 where prices were marked. Most were unmarked. None wound up on the donations pile (AKA Buy-it-Now), which suggests something.
 
NOTE: There could be 2 or 20 next show. For instance, there was only one steam-engine this year, a large walking-arm device, but there was also a glass (yes, glass) operating 4-stroke gasoline engine as a teaching tool. It ran for several hours on Friday afternoon. So, it is always a mixed bag of of random stuff - apart from the vintage radios, that is.
 
Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
thekmanrocks@gmail.com: Sep 27 08:02AM -0700

pf: Under $100? That's my range! As long
as everything on it works. I can always
clean dirty tape heads and replace a missing
mast.
 
Now I regret not having gone! I hope
next year's shows are as prolific, boombox
wise.
Pavlosqob <Pavlosqob.15f1c528@diybanter.com>: Sep 26 11:54PM +0100

Can I contact admin??
It is about advertisement on your website.
Thank.
 
 
 
 
--
Pavlosqob
Geo <nhhu-o3hu@dea.spamcon.org>: Sep 27 08:34AM +0100

On Wed, 26 Sep 2018 23:54:50 +0100, Pavlosqob
 
>Can I contact admin??
 
Are you incapable of reading all the replies you got to the identical
question you posted in the uk.d-i-y USENET group - or just trolling?
John Larkin <jjlarkin@highlandtechnology.com>: Sep 26 09:13PM -0700

>end up with something like the Communist Republic of California where
>you're not free to do much of anything other than smoke a blunt or be
>queer.
 
All these goofy laws would be oppressive if many were actually
enforced.
 
 
--
 
John Larkin Highland Technology, Inc
 
lunatic fringe electronics
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 11 updates in 5 topics

OGER <OGER@freenews.com>: Sep 25 10:19AM -0700

Because it is there !
The least mod to the driveway monitor is desired.
That way if in the future the PIR xmtr fails I can simply replace it or
the receiver if it fails.
 
So making the PIR detect something and activating the transmitter so the
receiver will flash as it normally would.
 
 
 
Terry Pinnell wrote:
OGER <OGER@freenews.com>: Sep 25 10:21AM -0700

That receiver has a tiny LED, I need more brightness to illuminate the
far side of the room. The driveway monitor has three leds and is bright.
 
 
 
Terry Schwartz <tschw10117@aol.com>: Sep 25 03:25PM -0700

On Tuesday, September 25, 2018 at 12:22:40 PM UTC-5, OGER wrote:
> > I got a garage door monitor from Sears. It has a device (powered by a CR2032 battery) that attaches to the door, and it transmits a signal when the door is open (mercury switch?). A receiver in the house has red and green LEDs, and it shows red when the door is up and green when the door is down.
 
> > I think it cost me about US$40, but a quick Google search shows them from Chamberlain and LiftMaster for under $100. Since Sears and OSH are both going out of business, you might be able to find one at a clearance price.
 
> > Of course, this approach deprives you of the joy of building one for yourself.
 
I wired magnetic alarm switches on my garage doors, stole power for the circuit from the IR "eye" circuit, and ran it to bright blue LED's right inside my service door in the house. They are mounted in a low voltage box. Super bright and easy to see from across the whole lower level of the house.
John S <Sophi.2@invalid.org>: Sep 26 08:41AM -0500

On 9/23/2018 2:11 PM, OGER wrote:
> Suggestions please.
 
> Taking a driveway PIR xmtr to modify for other purposes with no actual
> internal mods.
 
The why did you post that you needed a schematic?
vvish838@gmail.com: Sep 25 09:23PM -0700

Solution Manual Electronic Principles (8th Ed., Albert Malvino, David Bates)
 
hello sir can i get this pdf
Cursitor Doom <curd@notformail.com>: Sep 26 12:00AM

On Mon, 24 Sep 2018 16:51:58 -0400, Neon John wrote:
 
 
> Hmmmm,
> John John DeArmond http://www.neon-john.com http://www.tnduction.com
> Tellico Plains, Occupied TN See website for email address
 
The threat posed by ever more powerful cheap lasers from China is
something the authorities appear to be overlooking.
 
And then there are all those folks designing their own viruses aided by
cheap PCR machines, also from China, that need looking into urgently.
 
 
 
 
--
This message may be freely reproduced without limit or charge only via
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DLUNU <DecadentLinuxUserNumeroUno@DLU.org>: Sep 26 02:34AM

Cursitor Doom <curd@notformail.com> wrote in news:poei61$3kk$2@dont-
email.me:
 
> On Mon, 24 Sep 2018 16:51:58 -0400, Neon John wrote:
 
>> On a lighter note, I'm kicked around this question in my mind for
many
 
> The threat posed by ever more powerful cheap lasers from China is
> something the authorities appear to be overlooking.
 
> And then there are all those folks designing their own viruses aided
by
> cheap PCR machines, also from China, that need looking into urgently.
 
Consumers have access to consumer grade goods. AMD makes their new
Ryzen CPU for consumers with like 16 cores or such.
 
The stuff the pros and the supercomputer builders use have 32 cores
for 64 process threads. I will be building a waveform analyzer using
the 2990WX. They are like $1800 each. PCR machines? They don't
require much.

Remember "Sneakers"? The future is quantum decryption.
John-Del <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Sep 25 12:21PM -0700

On Monday, September 24, 2018 at 2:03:03 PM UTC-4, John-Del wrote:
 
> Other than the two missing signal tubes and knobs, it's complete.
 
> I will box it, but won't ship it. If you want it, you must issue a pick up at my business location.
 
> Email me at: delstv--AT-- A O L.c o m
 
 
Taken.
John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Sep 25 10:30AM -0700


>> Peter Wieck
>> Melrose Park, PA
 
> I'm sure 39 would be easier on the eyes than the flashier XXXIX.
 
It will be better next year - XV - and then XVI and so on.
 
Works for me! I like to exercise my few working brain cells whenever
possible.
 
And I got 19% in Latin back in grade 9! (private school - UCC, that
school and I didn't get along)
 
John :-#)#
 
--
(Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup)
John's Jukes Ltd.
MOVED to #7 - 3979 Marine Way, Burnaby, BC, Canada V5J 5E3
(604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
www.flippers.com
"Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."
"pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Sep 25 10:44AM -0700

On Tuesday, September 25, 2018 at 1:31:07 PM UTC-4, John Robertson wrote:
> >> Melrose Park, PA
 
> > I'm sure 39 would be easier on the eyes than the flashier XXXIX.
 
> It will be better next year - XV - and then XVI and so on.
 
XL, as it happens.
 
Si hoc legere scis nimium eruditionis habes
 
Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Sep 25 10:57AM -0700


> Si hoc legere scis nimium eruditionis habes
 
> Peter Wieck
> Melrose Park, PA
 
Now you know why I got only 19% in Latin!
 
L = 50
V = 5
 
sigh...
 
John ;-#)#
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 12 updates in 4 topics

Terry Pinnell <me@somewhere.invalid>: Sep 25 10:28AM +0100

OGER <OGER@freenut.com> wrote:
 
<snip>
 
>I am trying to build a garage door monitor.
>My new garage door opener does not have a lock function like my previous
>so I need a way to monitor the door state in my house,
 
I must be missing something. Why do you need the PIR to achieve that
objective?
 
In my burglar alarm wiring loop I included an improvised microswitch
toggled by the state of the garage door.
 
Terry, East Grinstead, UK
"jfeng@my-deja.com" <jfeng@my-deja.com>: Sep 25 07:22AM -0700

On Sunday, September 23, 2018 at 6:07:58 PM UTC-7, OGER wrote:
> I am trying to build a garage door monitor.
> My new garage door opener does not have a lock function like my previous
> so I need a way to monitor the door state in my house,
I got a garage door monitor from Sears. It has a device (powered by a CR2032 battery) that attaches to the door, and it transmits a signal when the door is open (mercury switch?). A receiver in the house has red and green LEDs, and it shows red when the door is up and green when the door is down.
 
I think it cost me about US$40, but a quick Google search shows them from Chamberlain and LiftMaster for under $100. Since Sears and OSH are both going out of business, you might be able to find one at a clearance price.
 
Of course, this approach deprives you of the joy of building one for yourself.
Neon John <no@never.com>: Sep 24 04:51PM -0400

On Thu, 20 Sep 2018 16:20:48 -0400, Phil Hobbs
 
>Such as an IED, maybe?
 
>Cheers
 
>Phil Hobbs
 
On my website is the design and firmware for a very small countdown
timer that could indeed be misused as a detonator. I designed it as
an option board for the Roy induction heater and have now adapted it
to time the heat on our Annie, the brass annealer for people who
reload ammo.
 
I refuse to be a fear-monger and refuse to punish legitimate users by
taking down the design because of a theoretical misuse scenario.
 
Proposing such a scenario as if it's actually probable is beyond the
pale. After all, ordinary burglar alarm PIR detector, microswitches,
vibration sensor (another burglar alarm device) and any number of
devices can be misused.
 
If you were joking, it wasn't funny. Enough fear mongering and you
end up with something like the Communist Republic of California where
you're not free to do much of anything other than smoke a blunt or be
queer.
 
On a lighter note, I'm kicked around this question in my mind for many
years. "What would it take to make a totally non-disarmable bomb?"
Since I'm now retired, maybe I'll take a go at it. Not with actual
explosives, of course. Maybe a big red LED that spells out "Boom".
Hmmm, maybe I could get a competition going, similar to battlebots.
 
Hmmmm,
John
John DeArmond
http://www.neon-john.com
http://www.tnduction.com
Tellico Plains, Occupied TN
See website for email address
"pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Sep 25 05:30AM -0700

On Monday, September 24, 2018 at 4:52:07 PM UTC-4, Neon John wrote:
 
"What would it take to make a totally non-disarmable bomb?"
 
There are very nearly an infinity of ways, none of which are terribly complex. The issue with bombs is that they are often overly complex - and it is the complexity that becomes their weakness. If you know how to 'stand' an egg, you are already half-way there.
 
Now, if you want a non-disarmable bomb that will also go boom only and exactly when asked (unless a disarm attempt is made), that is a different problem.
 
Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Sep 24 10:00AM -0700

> https://john-h.smugmug.com/Kutztown-XXXIX-Video-Slideshow/i-Tk6zmR7/A
 
> Peter Wieck
> Melrose Park, PA
 
Hmm, this slideshow is not working on my MAC in either Firefox or
Safari...I just see the first photo, but the arrow keys are unresponsive.
 
Looking forward to the pictures!
 
John :-#(#
 
--
(Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup)
John's Jukes Ltd.
MOVED to #7 - 3979 Marine Way, Burnaby, BC, Canada V5J 5E3
(604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
www.flippers.com
"Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."
Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Sep 24 10:23AM -0700

On Mon, 24 Sep 2018 10:00:53 -0700, John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>
wrote:
 
>Safari...I just see the first photo, but the arrow keys are unresponsive.
>Looking forward to the pictures!
>John :-#(#
 
It's not your Mac. My PC does the same thing (using Firefox or
Chrome).
 
While waiting to get the slide show thing fixed, he has some other
slides and videos of previous shows on his web pile:
<https://john-h.smugmug.com>
The most recent is near the bottom of the page which is where I found
this 2018(?) photo gallery:
<https://john-h.smugmug.com/Kutztown-XXXIX-Radio-Juggernaut/>
 
--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
"pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Sep 24 11:30AM -0700

On Monday, September 24, 2018 at 1:01:02 PM UTC-4, John Robertson wrote:
> > https://john-h.smugmug.com/Kutztown-XXXIX-Video-Slideshow/i-Tk6zmR7/A
 
> > Peter Wieck
> > Melrose Park, PA
 
At the bottom of the opening screen picture is an icon of a movie camera. Click on that.
 
Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Sep 24 12:11PM -0700


> At the bottom of the opening screen picture is an icon of a movie camera. Click on that.
 
> Peter Wieck
> Melrose Park, PA
 
Working now, thanks!
 
John :-#)#
 
--
(Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup)
John's Jukes Ltd.
MOVED to #7 - 3979 Marine Way, Burnaby, BC, Canada V5J 5E3
(604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
www.flippers.com
"Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."
bruce2bowser@gmail.com: Sep 25 03:20AM -0700


> Watch this space for my usual list of freebies and such. I am culling the herd, and this is your opportunity to take advantage.
 
> Peter Wieck
> Melrose Park, PA
 
I'm sure 39 would be easier on the eyes than the flashier XXXIX.
John-Del <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Sep 24 11:03AM -0700

Running condition unknown except for the following: a long hard wired AC cord was added to supplement the side AC receptacle which is still there, but the AC cord has no plug (looks like it was wire-nutted into an even longer cord). Two of the three knobs are missing. It's never been stored in a wet or unheated area.
 
The push pull 6V6s and the rectifier are RCA all dated late 1957 and I believe them to be original to the amp. The 12AU7 and EF86 are missing, so it's untested.
 
Other than the two missing signal tubes and knobs, it's complete.
 
I will box it, but won't ship it. If you want it, you must issue a pick up at my business location.
 
Email me at: delstv--AT-- A O L.c o m
philo <philo@privacy.net>: Sep 24 04:22PM -0500

On 09/24/2018 01:03 PM, John-Del wrote:
 
> I will box it, but won't ship it. If you want it, you must issue a pick up at my business location.
 
> Email me at: delstv--AT-- A O L.c o m
 
Don't want it but I think you should mention your city
John-Del <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Sep 24 02:53PM -0700

On Monday, September 24, 2018 at 5:22:58 PM UTC-4, philo wrote:
 
> Don't want it but I think you should mention your city.
 
 
Good point. Shipped from Waterbury, CT 06706-2002.
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 10 updates in 2 topics

"pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Sep 24 04:01AM -0700

> Vintage 'boom boxes'?
 
There were, perhaps, 15+ boom boxes that I saw more-or-less equally distributed through both pavilions, from a very nice looking, quite large Grundig to a "Sonic" approximately the size of a modern aircraft carrier.
 
Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Sep 24 06:31AM -0500

> There were, perhaps, 15+ boom boxes that I saw
 
And how many of the "antique" radios in comparison?
 
--
"I am a river to my people."
Jeff-1.0
WA6FWi
http:foxsmercantile.com
"pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Sep 24 05:31AM -0700

On Monday, September 24, 2018 at 7:35:15 AM UTC-4, Fox's Mercantile wrote:

> And how many of the "antique" radios in comparison?
 
At least thousands - and as we are now in 2018, some few of the homebrew battery sets are at the magic 100-year mark this year, with some of the commercially produced radios reaching that mark next year.
 
There were two coherers on offer, thy also make that grade.
 
But, on the range between, say.... 1919 and 1963, at least thousands. Lewie had over 60 radios on his table alone, and he was one of roughly 200 dealers in all. I write 'roughly' as some dealers share tables - the guy who sells reproduction dial covers shares with the guy that produces (yes, produces) reproduction grille cloth, radio pointers (including Zenith Zs) and fasteners (those little brass flower-head nails and screws). As one of several examples. For those who have been there, the show covered 4/5ths of the second pavilion, and that pavilion is now entirely sold out for the spring show. Despite the marginal weather (damp and cool, but no activities cancelled or shortened), things were very busy right up until closing - about 2:00 pm Saturday.
 
Note: One seller even had a stock of various-sized D-springs for wooden friction-fit knobs. Go figure.
 
Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
"pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Sep 24 09:40AM -0700

https://john-h.smugmug.com/Kutztown-XXXIX-Video-Slideshow/i-Tk6zmR7/A
 
Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
OGER <OGER@NOWHERE.COM>: Sep 23 12:11PM -0700

Suggestions please.
 
Taking a driveway PIR xmtr to modify for other purposes with no actual
internal mods.
 
Thinking of using some emitter taped to the PIR window to activate the xmtr.
 
Something as simple as a blinking LED to keep the xmtr transmitting
while the LED is blinking.
 
Using one of these.
4VWIN Wireless Home Security Driveway Alarm

https://www.amazon.com/4VWIN-Wireless-Security-Driveway-Receiver/dp/B01JRASCDU/ref=sr_1_129?ie=UTF8&qid=1537407005&sr=8-129&keywords=garage+door+monitor
 
or
Harbor Freight Home Security Driveway Alarm
https://www.harborfreight.com/wireless-security-alert-system-62447.html
 
Suggestions please.
Switch State
Open - LED off and no PIR activation
Closed - LED blinks to maintain PIR activation.
 
Option 1:
blinking LED and switch and battery.
 
Option 2:
555 timer, LED, switch and battery.
 
Or ???
 
What is needed to activate the PIR. LED color or type ?
 
Receiver will just be the reeiver's flashing LED with the audio function
disabled.
I think it is a transducer that I can either smother or cut out of the
circuit if it is not part of the receiver function.
 
What do you think?
Jasen Betts <jasen@xnet.co.nz>: Sep 23 09:22PM


> Taking a driveway PIR xmtr to modify for other purposes with no actual
> internal mods.
 
 
> What is needed to activate the PIR. LED color or type ?
 
changing thermal infrared
small 100 ohm resistor fed by 1Hz 5V square wave
 
--
ت
John Larkin <jjlarkin@highlandtechnology.com>: Sep 23 02:34PM -0700

On Sun, 23 Sep 2018 12:11:16 -0700, OGER <OGER@NOWHERE.COM> wrote:
 
 
Active Passive? PIRs don't transmit.
 
 
 
 
--
 
John Larkin Highland Technology, Inc
 
lunatic fringe electronics
OGER <OGER@freenut.com>: Sep 23 06:07PM -0700

When looking for the LED, what description do I look for ?
I have never seen anything called a thermal LED.
DigiKey have them. Their on-line catalog is impossible to find anything
especially LEDs.
Any part number for me ?
 
I am trying to build a garage door monitor.
My new garage door opener does not have a lock function like my previous
so I need a way to monitor the door state in my house,
 
The driveway monitor is almost all I need and if I had a schematic I
could modify it internally. Looking at the circuit board does not give
enough info.
 
 
 
Jasen Betts wrote:
 
> changing thermal infrared
> small 100 ohm resistor fed by 1Hz 5V square wave
 
Jasen Betts wrote:
Rheilly Phoull <rheilly@bigslong.com>: Sep 24 10:15AM +0800

On 24/09/2018 9:07 AM, OGER wrote:
 
> The driveway monitor is almost all I need and if I had a schematic I
> could modify it internally.  Looking at the circuit board does not give
> enough info.
 
You could pick off a signal from the down limit switch to drive a
transmitter or direct wire to a led inside the home or whatever.
Jasen Betts <jasen@xnet.co.nz>: Sep 24 07:35AM

> When looking for the LED, what description do I look for ?
> I have never seen anything called a thermal LED.
 
you need a heat emitter, not a light emitter, use a small heat source, like
a small lamp or a resistor
 
an LM555 powered by 5V blinking a 0.3W 6V lamp would probably do the trick
 
digikey part number CM756-ND is a 14V lamp but using lower voltage
will make it last longer and produce more infrared than a 5V lamp
 
Wire the 555 discharge and output pins in parallel, this lamp is
borderline max load for a 555 so combining the two outputs will help..
 
----+-----------------+-- +5V
1Meg | |
+-[R1]--------|--------+--(@)---+
| | |
| +--------+ | lamp
| | | |
| | . . . .|. . . . |
| | . VCC(8) . |
| | . . |
| +--RES(4) OUT(3)--+
| . LM555 . |
+-------TH(6) DIS(7)--+
| . .
+-------TR(2) CV(5)-----+
1uF | . . |
===== . GND(1) . |
| . . . .|. . . . ===== 100nf
| | |
+-------------+ |
| |
+-----------+
|
---+-- 0V

 
run frequency is about 1.4Hz

 
 
 
--
 
Bye.
Jasen
 
 
 
 
--
ت
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