Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 9 updates in 3 topics

whit3rd <whit3rd@gmail.com>: Oct 30 03:25PM -0700

On Monday, October 29, 2018 at 6:53:34 AM UTC-7, Tim R wrote:
> I had the ballast in an old two tube T12 fluorescent fixture go bad.
 
> The local big box had direct replacement LED tubes on sale, so I tried them. They wire directly to line current, no external ballast, but the tubes fit in the old tombstone connectors.
 
Did you disconnect the ballast inside the fixture, that connects to those old tombstone
connectors?
 
> They work fine; they start at full brightness even when the room is cold, unlike the old fluorescents they replaced. BUT there is a long delay between flipping the switch and seeing them start. It's on the order of 1 - 2 seconds, I haven't tried measuring yet.
 
Either the ballast inside the fixture has a start-cycle, OR there's some kind of switch-off
that operates to prevent a power surge from frying the LEDs. That protection circuit
can be triggered by the power-on transient, and take a while to reset itself.
Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Oct 30 05:05PM -0700

Tim R wrote:
 
> We've been discussing this on another forum.
> Why would there be a delay?
> It's not unique to mine, either, others have noticed similar results.
 
** Fluoro tubes are mostly used in commercial lighting and then in quite large numbers. A big inrush surge occurs when switching banks or a whole room full of tubes on - trips breakers, bad news.
 
The time delay built into many in LED version is there so the inverter circuitry can ramp up slowly, avoiding the usual brief but large current surge that accompanies the use of magnetic or most electronic ballasts.
 
In typical commercial applications, the tubes are switched on only *once* a day, so there is no issue as there might be in domestic use - all the LED bulbs I have seen come instantly on.

Some even fade out after switch off, just like an incandescent.
 
 
.... Phil
Tim R <timothy42b@aol.com>: Oct 31 05:17AM -0700

On Tuesday, October 30, 2018 at 6:25:47 PM UTC-4, whit3rd wrote:
 
> > The local big box had direct replacement LED tubes on sale, so I tried them. They wire directly to line current, no external ballast, but the tubes fit in the old tombstone connectors.
 
> Did you disconnect the ballast inside the fixture, that connects to those old tombstone
> connectors?
 
Yes. There were LED tubes available that worked on a ballast, and I considered doing that because it would allow a retreat to fluorescent if I didn't like them, or if they became unavailable. But my ballast was bad, and replacements were expensive. So I removed it and wired 120VAC directly to the tombstones.
Terry Schwartz <tschw10117@aol.com>: Oct 31 08:33AM -0700

Oh those troublesome holes. Takes forever to fill 'em. Insatiable.
 
LED's are much faster than incandescents. Look at most any vehicle that has LED's in the side mirrors and incandescents in the rear turns. The timing is visibly different and painfully obvious. At least one vehicle maker has recognized this and compensated for it in the driver timing, even PWMing the LEDs during turn on to emulate the familiar incandescent "warm up".
 
The inherent flicker in LED tail lights (and other LED lighting) bothers the crap out of me. I know not everyone sees it, but apparently my eyesight is a bit more responsive than some. I see the flicker in neon signs and various LED backlights as well.
 
The PWM rate is designed to be faster than normal visual threshold of detection, but below the audio threshold of annoyance... that is, over a hundred HZ or so, but out of the sweet spot of human hearing, a few hundred HZ to a few KHz. It seems counter-intuitive that the visual threshold is lower than audio, but in this case, it is.
 
The PWM rate could easily be set above the hearing range, but that has potential implications for causing EMI certification problems.
 
We installed LED lights in our bathroom fixtures -- and one of the wifes' hair appliances modulates the LED bulbs badly. I'm not sure if I should blame the bulbs or the curling iron in this case.
 
Terry
 
Look165 <look165@numericable.fr>: Oct 31 05:05PM +0100

Anyway, for LED you don't need aballast.
 
It is a resonant circuit designed for HPOT generation.
 
Kill it off and connct the LED directly to the mains '(w/o diodes).
 
You will have immediate lightning ; it is the ballast which introduces a
delay.
 
 
Tim R a écrit :
John-Del <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Oct 31 09:36AM -0700

On Wednesday, October 31, 2018 at 12:05:24 PM UTC-4, Look165 wrote:
 
> Kill it off and connct the LED directly to the mains '(w/o diodes).
 
> You will have immediate lightning ; it is the ballast which introduces a
> delay.
 
How many times does OP have to say he wired around the ballast and connected directly to the AC source?? He also said he switched to LEDs because his ballast was dead.
 
Internally, they don't connect the LED string to the AC. So first there's a rectifier, then there's an LED current control circuit of some kind. The time the LED string will be powered up will depend on the controller. O2 Micro makes a lot of controllers, and I have seen them in many LED TV supplies. There is often a short delay depending on the control IC before the string is powered up.
 
The 8 footers I have power up almost immediately, but perhaps the controller IC in OP's tubes delay the output until the input filter is fully charged by design. Since LEDs don't put out any significant light until they reach close to their run voltage, maybe his controller just ramps up the string slower than the one in my 8 foot tubes.
 
The fact that all his examples do the same tells me it's just the way it's designed and not a failure.
 
And once again, he DISCONNECTED the ballast and wired them directly.
"pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Oct 31 09:44AM -0700

Please note the interpolations:
 
On Wednesday, October 31, 2018 at 11:33:32 AM UTC-4, Terry Schwartz wrote:
> Oh those troublesome holes. Takes forever to fill 'em. Insatiable.
 
> LED's are much faster than incandescents. Look at most any vehicle that has LED's in the side mirrors and incandescents in the rear turns. The timing is visibly different and painfully obvious. At least one vehicle maker has recognized this and compensated for it in the driver timing, even PWMing the LEDs during turn on to emulate the familiar incandescent "warm up".
 
There are LED lamps and there are LED lamps. "Responsible" makers such as RAB & Cree (and a few others) feed smoothed DC to their lamps, greatly reducing and/or eliminating flicker. Some few of the retro-lamp makers (those that require removal of the ballast and so forth) do the same. But far fewer than with the complete fixture.
 
> The inherent flicker in LED tail lights (and other LED lighting) bothers the crap out of me. I know not everyone sees it, but apparently my eyesight is a bit more responsive than some. I see the flicker in neon signs and various LED backlights as well.
 
Agreed on this. But, as you note, some makers take care to handle this in their vehicles. Our Ford C-Max side-mirror led signals are synched well for example. Vehicle systems can be a mixed bag, depending on how well filtered the Alternator might be.

> The PWM rate is designed to be faster than normal visual threshold of detection, but below the audio threshold of annoyance... that is, over a hundred HZ or so, but out of the sweet spot of human hearing, a few hundred HZ to a few KHz. It seems counter-intuitive that the visual threshold is lower than audio, but in this case, it is.
 
> The PWM rate could easily be set above the hearing range, but that has potential implications for causing EMI certification problems.
 
> We installed LED lights in our bathroom fixtures -- and one of the wifes' hair appliances modulates the LED bulbs badly. I'm not sure if I should blame the bulbs or the curling iron in this case.
 
See the first instance. We tried (cheap, as in FREE) some utility-supplied LED lamps in the kitchen at our summer house - and instantly lost FM reception anywhere within a 30' sphere of these lamps. We switched over to SMT LED fixtures (no separate lamps) and all became well.
 
I will soon find out a lot more about LED retrofits. We are about to install about $1,500,000 in conversion fixtures and retro-lamps in the buildings I manage based on a fairly chunky Utility rebate. These are medical offices, outpatient clinical spaces and heavy-duty research facilities - gene splicers and all that. So, if there is any tendency for mutual interference, I will know soon. The installer says not. Famous last words, or not.
 
It is a very mixed bag, and one size does not fit all.

 
> > Steve
 
> > --
> > http://www.npsnn.com
 
Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
dhaneshwar.genesis@gmail.com: Oct 31 03:41AM -0700

OLED.pngGlobal OLED Market was valued at USD 21.01 Billion in the year 2017. OLED market is further estimated to grow at a CAGR of 14.27% from 2018 to 2023 to reach USD 46.79 Billion. APAC region holds the highest market share in 2017 with European region is considered as the fastest growing market in the forecasted period. At a country level, South Korea is the biggest market in 2017 and it is projected to grow at a gradual pace in the coming years. http://bit.ly/2q5SJlL
gregz <zekor@comcast.net>: Oct 31 07:09AM

> Mixing with petroleum jelly should slow down the reaction so that it
> turns to goo after it's sprayed on the parts that needs lubrication or
> rust protection.
 
The spray action is different from many aerosols. You can get a very
controlled slow output that actually seems to bubble out. It covers parts
nicely.
 
Greg
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 11 updates in 3 topics

"pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Oct 29 12:49PM -0700

https://www.wd40specialist.com/products/contact-cleaner?specialist=GoogleCleanserDegreaser&gclid=CjwKCAjw39reBRBJEiwAO1m0Ocrfm4KkPCJo8D7c0wLHeiHJ7PqQRs4pTnlrlMDl3hcp4AA5T-SPAxoC_r4QAvD_BwE
 
 
Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Oct 29 02:03PM -0700

On Mon, 29 Oct 2018 12:49:37 -0700 (PDT), "pfjw@aol.com"
 
>https://www.wd40specialist.com/products/contact-cleaner?specialist=GoogleCleanserDegreaser&gclid=CjwKCAjw39reBRBJEiwAO1m0Ocrfm4KkPCJo8D7c0wLHeiHJ7PqQRs4pTnlrlMDl3hcp4AA5T-SPAxoC_r4QAvD_BwE
>Peter Wieck
>Melrose Park, PA
 
<https://www.wd40specialist.com/products/contact-cleaner>
<https://www.wd40company.com/files/pdf/sds/specialist/wd-40-specialist-electrical-contact-cleaner-spray-us-ghs.pdf>
n-Hexane 110-54-3 20-30%
Isopropyl Alcohol (Isopropanol) 67-63-0 10-20%
1,1 Difluoroethane 75-37-6 40-60%
 
n-Hexand and isopropyl alcohol are solvents normally used to remove
grease and oil. n-Hexane is found in some foods, so the FDA has
declared it to be food safe. It's also found in gasoline, which is
not so safe. Little wonder it's listed as "fast drying" which should
be "fast evaporating".
 
1,1 Difluoroethane is the propellant gas.
 
It's basically an alcohol and solvent spray. No oxide remover means
you get to rub off any oxide coating by hand. Also, no tarnish
remover.
 
Cost $7 for 11 oz (400ml).
 
The other Jeff.
 
--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Oct 29 06:40PM -0500

On 10/29/18 4:03 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
> remover.
 
> Cost $7 for 11 oz (400ml).
 
> The other Jeff.
 
What a surprise, WD-40 makes yet another useless product.
 
No thanks, I'll stick with my De-Oxit, Fader Lube and Pro-Gold.
 
The other other Jeff.
 
--
"I am a river to my people."
Jeff-1.0
WA6FWi
http:foxsmercantile.com
"pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Oct 30 08:40AM -0700

I guess it takes a while for the leg to pull from Ranger to Melrose Park.
 
Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Oct 30 10:48AM -0500

> I guess it takes a while for the leg to pull from Ranger to Melrose Park.
 
> Peter Wieck
> Melrose Park, PA
 
Yank yank
 
 
--
"I am a river to my people."
Jeff-1.0
WA6FWi
http:foxsmercantile.com
"~misfit~" <shaun.at.pukekohe@gmail.com>: Oct 30 12:47PM +1300

Once upon a time on usenet gregz wrote:
>> Eric
 
> Some cam switches I think I just used alcohol. I never did, pbut
> thinking of lube or cleaner lube, I love CRC 2-26.
 
I'll second the 2-26. It's the aerosol can I'd least like to do without for
electronics work.
--
Shaun.
 
"Humans will have advanced a long, long way when religious belief has a cozy
little classification in the DSM*."
David Melville (in r.a.s.f1)
(*Diagnostic and Statistical Manual of Mental Disorders)
Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Oct 29 07:03PM -0700

On Tue, 30 Oct 2018 12:47:40 +1300, "~misfit~"
>> thinking of lube or cleaner lube, I love CRC 2-26.
 
>I'll second the 2-26. It's the aerosol can I'd least like to do without for
>electronics work.
 
Ok, let's see what you get for your money with CRC 2-26:
<https://www.crcindustries.com/products/2-26-174-multi-purpose-precision-lubricant-16-fl-oz-02007.html>
<http://docs.crcindustries.com/msds/2007.pdf>
 
Chemical Name CAS No %
Distillates (petroleum), 64742-47-8 70 - 80
hydrotreated light
Light mineral oil 8042-47-5 10 - 20
n-Butyl stearate 123-95-5 3 - 5
Fatty Acids, C18-unsatd, 61788-89-4 1 - 3
Dimers
Petrolatum 8009-03-8 1 - 3
 
Nice job of obfuscating the actual contents, but the CAS numbers
should produce something helpful.
 
Looks like it's mostly light petroleum distillate, which means
kerosene (paraffin) or something similar. Kerosene can be both a
solvent and a lubricant.
 
Light mineral oil probably means light mineral oil or white paraffin
oil. Yet another lubricant.
 
n-Butyl stearate is a fatty acid based on zinc. It's food safe and
kinda waxy. My guess is that it acts as a coating over the contacts
to prevent further oxidation.
 
Fatty Acids, C18-unsatd, dimers. C18 would be oleic or possibly
linoleic acid. I would guess linoleic acid which is a quick drying
oil. It reacts with oxygen in the air to form a protective coating.
 
Petrolatum is another name for petroleum jelly or something similar.
No clue what it's doing in the mix.
 
 
--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Oct 29 10:35PM -0700

Jeff Liebermann wrote:
 
 
> >I'll second the 2-26. It's the aerosol can I'd least like to do without for
> >electronics work.
 
> Ok, let's see what you get for your money with CRC 2-26:
 
https://www.crcindustries.com/products/2-26-174-multi-purpose-precision-lubricant-16-fl-oz-02007.html
 
http://docs.crcindustries.com/msds/2007.pdf
 

 
 
** OMG !!!
 
CRC 2-26 now comes in a big, plastic hand sprayer - like weed killer.
 
 
 
.... Phil
gregz <zekor@comcast.net>: Oct 30 07:49AM


> ** OMG !!!
 
> CRC 2-26 now comes in a big, plastic hand sprayer - like weed killer.
 
> .... Phil
 
My first purchase was large can 12 oz. ? home Depot for about $4, then they
just had smaller cans for MORE money.
 
Greg
Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Oct 30 08:37AM -0700

On Mon, 29 Oct 2018 19:03:50 -0700, Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>
wrote:
(...)
>oil. It reacts with oxygen in the air to form a protective coating.
 
>Petrolatum is another name for petroleum jelly or something similar.
>No clue what it's doing in the mix.
 
I have a guess(tm) as to why the petroleum jelly. It evaporates, but
much slower than linoleic acid, which turns to goo as soon as it hits
the air. That might clog the nozzle of the pump type spray bottle.
Mixing with petroleum jelly should slow down the reaction so that it
turns to goo after it's sprayed on the parts that needs lubrication or
rust protection.
 
 
--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
"pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Oct 29 10:34AM -0700

To elaborate just a bit on Phil's correct answer:
 
Hot to hot = doubled voltage.
Hot-to-ground = half-voltage.
 
https://img.bhs4.com/e7/1/e71df333b176823b913fdddc802d6fc749bce9a5_large.jpg
 
One side will be - to ground +.
One side will be + to ground -.
 
To see this in action - exactly this - look at the filament voltage schematic for a Dynaco PAS. As these are all dumb components, loading does not change anything - to the capacity of the source in any case.
 
Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 4 updates in 1 topic

Tim R <timothy42b@aol.com>: Oct 29 06:53AM -0700

I had the ballast in an old two tube T12 fluorescent fixture go bad.
 
The local big box had direct replacement LED tubes on sale, so I tried them. They wire directly to line current, no external ballast, but the tubes fit in the old tombstone connectors.
 
They work fine; they start at full brightness even when the room is cold, unlike the old fluorescents they replaced. BUT there is a long delay between flipping the switch and seeing them start. It's on the order of 1 - 2 seconds, I haven't tried measuring yet.
 
We've been discussing this on another forum. Why would there be a delay? It's not unique to mine, either, others have noticed similar results.
John-Del <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Oct 29 07:07AM -0700

On Monday, October 29, 2018 at 9:53:34 AM UTC-4, Tim R wrote:
 
> The local big box had direct replacement LED tubes on sale, so I tried them. They wire directly to line current, no external ballast, but the tubes fit in the old tombstone connectors.
 
> They work fine; they start at full brightness even when the room is cold, unlike the old fluorescents they replaced. BUT there is a long delay between flipping the switch and seeing them start. It's on the order of 1 - 2 seconds, I haven't tried measuring yet.
 
> We've been discussing this on another forum. Why would there be a delay? It's not unique to mine, either, others have noticed similar results.
 
I picked up some 8' LED bulbs to retrofit the fixtures at my store, and they start immediately.
 
https://www.amazon.com/CNSUNWAY-LIGHTING-Dual-End-Replacement-Fluorescent/dp/B06VX4562H/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1540821784&sr=8-3&keywords=8%27+led+flourescent+tube+replacement
 
But, they do have an input range between 100 and like 270VAC. There is some sort of circuitry inside that keeps the current consistent as LEDs act a lot like zeners when it comes to over-volting them.
 
Do you have a link to the lamps you bought?
Stephen Wolstenholme <steve@easynn.com>: Oct 29 02:11PM

On Mon, 29 Oct 2018 06:53:31 -0700 (PDT), Tim R <timothy42b@aol.com>
wrote:
 
 
>The local big box had direct replacement LED tubes on sale, so I tried them. They wire directly to line current, no external ballast, but the tubes fit in the old tombstone connectors.
 
>They work fine; they start at full brightness even when the room is cold, unlike the old fluorescents they replaced. BUT there is a long delay between flipping the switch and seeing them start. It's on the order of 1 - 2 seconds, I haven't tried measuring yet.
 
>We've been discussing this on another forum. Why would there be a delay? It's not unique to mine, either, others have noticed similar results.
 
All LEDs have some start delay. Even the original ones used for
indicators had a short delay. It's while the electrons fill the
electron holes where they should be.
 
Steve
 
--
http://www.npsnn.com
Tim R <timothy42b@aol.com>: Oct 29 08:23AM -0700

On Monday, October 29, 2018 at 10:07:39 AM UTC-4, John-Del wrote:
 
> https://www.amazon.com/CNSUNWAY-LIGHTING-Dual-End-Replacement-Fluorescent/dp/B06VX4562H/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1540821784&sr=8-3&keywords=8%27+led+flourescent+tube+replacement
 
> But, they do have an input range between 100 and like 270VAC. There is some sort of circuitry inside that keeps the current consistent as LEDs act a lot like zeners when it comes to over-volting them.
 
> Do you have a link to the lamps you bought?
 
That's interesting. Yours are dual end powered (have to wire to both tombstones.)
 
Mine are single end 4 foot tubes. They require a nonshunted tombstone, which I was lucky enough to already have, but changing them out isn't hard. The power wires go to only one end, and there was plenty of wire there to not have to splice.
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 1 update in 1 topic

tabbypurr@gmail.com: Oct 24 07:36PM -0700


> The only main problem with it is that it doesn't have a god damn potentiometer. There is a way to make one, but I am not good enough with it yet. I wish there was a place i could just download it and pout it in the "library" but have not found it. The other problem is that the recipient of the file has to have the symbols all in his library. If not it will display all it can without whatever it doesn't recognize. That's why I would like to see a pot downloadable, so it is standardized. If five people do it five different ways it is not going to work.
 
> If you got a pot in your library we'll have to figure out how to propagate it. Hopefully it'll work in 4.
 
> Yeah right, hopefully, famous last words of the damned. LOL
 
Spice did have a pot originally, but they found people couldn't reach it through the glass screen. :)
 
2 fets & a ramped etc voltage to the gates?
 
 
NT
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 9 updates in 4 topics

jurb6006@gmail.com: Oct 22 11:29PM -0700

Actually I did that kinda wrong. It is not bad per se, but the right way is -
 
Version 4
SHEET 1 880 680
WIRE 352 64 208 64
WIRE 608 64 352 64
WIRE 688 64 608 64
WIRE 208 96 208 64
WIRE 352 96 352 64
WIRE 608 96 608 64
WIRE 208 176 208 160
WIRE 208 176 -16 176
WIRE 208 208 208 176
WIRE 352 208 352 160
WIRE 416 208 352 208
WIRE 608 208 496 208
WIRE 608 208 608 160
WIRE 32 240 -16 240
WIRE 608 256 608 208
WIRE 32 304 32 240
WIRE 416 304 416 208
WIRE 416 304 32 304
WIRE 208 320 208 272
WIRE 352 320 352 272
WIRE 352 320 208 320
WIRE 608 320 352 320
WIRE 688 320 608 320
WIRE 0 0 0 0
SYMBOL diode 224 272 R180
WINDOW 0 24 64 Left 2
WINDOW 3 24 0 Left 2
SYMATTR InstName D1
SYMBOL diode 368 272 R180
WINDOW 0 24 64 Left 2
WINDOW 3 24 0 Left 2
SYMATTR InstName D2
SYMBOL diode 368 160 R180
WINDOW 0 24 64 Left 2
WINDOW 3 24 0 Left 2
SYMATTR InstName D3
SYMBOL diode 224 160 R180
WINDOW 0 24 64 Left 2
WINDOW 3 24 0 Left 2
SYMATTR InstName D4
SYMBOL sw 512 208 R90
SYMATTR InstName S1
SYMBOL cap 592 96 R0
SYMATTR InstName C2
SYMBOL cap 592 256 R0
SYMATTR InstName C1
TEXT -128 208 Left 2 ;AC input
TEXT 680 192 Left 2 ;DC output
TEXT 368 136 Left 2 ;closed for doubler
TEXT 40 288 Left 2 ;neutral
TEXT 40 152 Left 2 ;hot
bruce2bowser@gmail.com: Oct 22 07:01PM -0700


> wire an outlet box with a duplex outlet and a switch.
 
> wire the outlet so the two outlets are in SERIES and in series with the switch..
 
> Plug your unit into one outlet and plug a 100 Watt INCANDESCENT light into the other outlet.
 
I wonder what it takes for a guy to find a house where all the 120v outlets are wired like that.
jurb6006@gmail.com: Oct 22 08:29PM -0700


> > wire the outlet so the two outlets are in SERIES and in series with the switch..
 
> > Plug your unit into one outlet and plug a 100 Watt INCANDESCENT light into the other outlet.
 
> I wonder what it takes for a guy to find a house where all the 120v outlets are wired like that.
 
Make sure there is a plug on it, do not wire it to the house wiring. Very against code.
dansabrservices@yahoo.com: Oct 22 10:07AM -0700

> This is admittedly off topic but I thought that I would ask. I received this phone call from a guy at the above company Apparently you sign up with this outfit for 345 dollars a year and they say that they will feed you all kinds of leads for work. In my case due to my diversity that will be anything from TV repairs to alarm system installations and both residential and commercial. I don't like the idea of paying for leads that could very well turn into nothing not to mention my fear of this not even being a legitimate outfit. Does anyone know anything about this company? Thanks Lenny
 
I have been contacted as well. In my case, I have restricted the "leads" to electronics repair only. I have not yet completed a contract with them as I am trying to have them filter the leads a bit. I don't want to pay for a lead that I can state in 20 seconds will not turn into anything. As an example, I repair flat screen TVs (at the component level), so there is profit here. But... If the screen is physically broken, there is no reason to waste my time or that of the customer. Even if the panel is available, its replacement will exceed the cost of a complete replacement TV. I am trying to get HA to pre-screen these leads so as not to waste my time nor to cost me the per-lead charge.
 
No definitive agreement yet...
 
Dan
bruce2bowser@gmail.com: Oct 22 07:04PM -0700

> both residential and commercial. I don't like the idea of paying for leads that could very well turn into nothing
> not to mention my fear of this not even being a legitimate outfit. Does anyone know anything about this company?
> Thanks Lenny
 
I heard their commercial on the radio. It plays to the tune 'Halleluya", right?
jjh <jjhudak@gmail.com>: Oct 22 10:45AM -0700

> idea? Is there a better solution?
> Thanks,
> Eric
 
Depending on the switch type, I use the following 'contact cleaners' from:
Caig - Deoxit
CRC contact cleaner
Chemtronics contact cleaner, cleaner&lube
LPS products
 
I will never let WD40 near any of my electronic stuff or mechanical stuff. Come to think of it, I don't let it near anything I work on.
 
For Tek scopes of that vintage, where lube is used, the original lube has dried out. After cleaning (to remove the dirt & oxidation, as well as the old lube), it is recommended to relube it. Its been a while since I did this and don't remember what I used, but IIRC, the Tek SM cited the product.
 
There is a tek scope NG. If you post your question on there, I am sure you will get excellent pointers.
Good luck
J
etpm@whidbey.com: Oct 22 12:12PM -0700

Thanks everyone for the replies regarding the cleaning of the switch
contacts. I knew you all would come through with good info. Thanks
Jeff especially for the links about cleaning these exact switches. I
figured they would just be some sort of rotary switch. But they are
more complex and take special care. Now that I have the info I am
gonna use it to get the switching working correctly. And to avoid the
rush I'll clean all the other switch contacts too. I guess a machine
shop with oil mist in the air is not the best place for the scope to
be stored. Who knew? I'll have to put it in the separate office.
Eric
Phil Hobbs <pcdhSpamMeSenseless@electrooptical.net>: Oct 22 04:35PM -0400

On 10/21/18 11:42 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
>> removing adhesive residue.
 
> I use Goof-Off, which is 25% to 50% mineral spirits. My thinking is
> anything that stinks that bad must be powerful stuff.
 
Goof-off has n-methyl 2-pyrrolidone (NMP) in it, and that stuff goes
through your skin super fast. It's not especially dangerous as organic
solvents go, but still it's best to wear gloves.
 
Cheers
 
Phil Hobbs
 
 
--
Dr Philip C D Hobbs
Principal Consultant
ElectroOptical Innovations LLC / Hobbs ElectroOptics
Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics
Briarcliff Manor NY 10510
 
http://electrooptical.net
http://hobbs-eo.com
Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Oct 22 04:32PM -0700

On Mon, 22 Oct 2018 16:35:54 -0400, Phil Hobbs
 
>Goof-off has n-methyl 2-pyrrolidone (NMP) in it, and that stuff goes
>through your skin super fast. It's not especially dangerous as organic
>solvents go, but still it's best to wear gloves.
 
Sorta, kinda, maybe. Goof-Off is the brand name, which includes a
variety of products:
<https://goofoffproducts.com/products/>
I should have been more specific. I use Goof Off Gunk and Adhesive
Remover:
https://goofoffproducts.com/product/gunk-adhesive-remover-12-oz/
I use it for removing labels, not for cleaning switch contacts.
 
The MSDS shows no sign of NMP but does contain oleic acid, ethanol,
ethylene glycol (anti-freeze), ether, limonene, and benzyl alcohol.
<https://goofoffproducts.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/08/GunkAdhesiveRemoverMSDS.pdf>
One of these is probably as bad as NMP because when I use it without
gloves, my hand still reek from the stuff and feel oily hours later,
even if I wash my hands several times. I've also ruined at least two
computer keyboards when the solvents removed the white lettering from
the keycaps, even though I thought I had thoroughly washed my hands.
 
Goof-Off does make one product with NMP. Their Pro Stength Super Glue
Remover contains NMP:
<https://goofoffproducts.com/product/pro-strength-super-glue-remover-4-oz/>
<https://goofoffproducts.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/08/ProStrengthSuperGlueRemoverMSDS.pdf>
There might be other Goof-Off products that use NMP, but I didn't feel
like going through all the MSDS documents.
 
An EPA report on NMP use, mfg, distribution, processing, disposal,
etc. See Pg 3 through 13 for other products that contain NMP:
<https://www.epa.gov/sites/production/files/2017-02/documents/nmp.pdf>
 
As you mention, it doesn't appear to be very toxic:
<https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/N-Methyl-2-pyrrolidone>
<https://www.epa.gov/sites/production/files/2015-04/documents/methyl.pdf>
 
--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 14 updates in 3 topics

captainvideo462009@gmail.com: Oct 21 07:13PM -0700

This is admittedly off topic but I thought that I would ask. I received this phone call from a guy at the above company Apparently you sign up with this outfit for 345 dollars a year and they say that they will feed you all kinds of leads for work. In my case due to my diversity that will be anything from TV repairs to alarm system installations and both residential and commercial. I don't like the idea of paying for leads that could very well turn into nothing not to mention my fear of this not even being a legitimate outfit. Does anyone know anything about this company? Thanks Lenny
jurb6006@gmail.com: Oct 22 02:40AM -0700

Did you do any preliminary research ? They are part of the same big suit place as Angie's List now, and there are others under the same shell. Founded in 98, changed their name in 012, and now Angie of Angie's list is the big corporation Home Advisor is their subsidiary. The parent is on NASDAQ, netted $10 mil in 015, Home Advisor reports I think 2,000 employees. The parent of the parent is IAC, a REALLY big one.
 
So they are as trustworthy as the phone company...err water works...err the government...err you know,nobody.
 
I looked to residential alarm services and it came up with nothing and bounced me into some house cleaning n shit, yeah, that's the same thing, right ? So they got their brain cell trained, to shit in the basement.
 
They also have some type of "permit pulling" service, you have to give it a zip code before anything. The button next to it says "find a pro", I didn't hit it.
 
Now the downside - you got a cold call from them.
 
If you can spare the money try it but make sure you are not getting into a contract. One year, a buck a day, OK. You get a check, not an automatic payment. It expires UNLESS I RENEW IT AT THE END. No extra for extra listings.
 
And I recommend you record the call.
"pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Oct 22 05:34AM -0700

They advertise heavily in southeastern PA, and they have a habit of cold-calling any sort of service contractor to offer their services. Keep in mind that a contractor's number is on no sort of Do Not Call list, so they get away with it.
 
I used their website a few years ago when we were pricing a new roof. I did not give them a phone number, e-mail only. When we started getting prices from South Carolina-based companies and based on Google Earth photos I had some concerns. When I started to read the fine print about warranties (manufacturer only), Permits (I had to get it), Insurance (large additional charge) and local license (I pay), trash removal (tear-off, my dumpster), that was enough. We went with a local licensed, insured roofer with a 30 year reputation, at about the same net cost.
 
If you are busy and have a good reputation, you do not need them. If you are starting out in your trade, they might be useful. But the links they provide are no better than they should be.
 
Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
John-Del <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Oct 22 06:30AM -0700

> This is admittedly off topic but I thought that I would ask. I received this phone call from a guy at the above company Apparently you sign up with this outfit for 345 dollars a year and they say that they will feed you all kinds of leads for work. In my case due to my diversity that will be anything from TV repairs to alarm system installations and both residential and commercial. I don't like the idea of paying for leads that could very well turn into nothing not to mention my fear of this not even being a legitimate outfit. Does anyone know anything about this company? Thanks Lenny
 
I could be wrong, but I think they get paid if they refer someone to you and you don't even get the job. Not sure about Home Advisor, but I do know for a fact that his happened with other trade service referral services.
 
For $350, you'd be far better off advertising in your local bulletin type newspapers as well as building your own web site.
Chuck <ch@dejanews.net>: Oct 22 11:35AM -0500

On Sun, 21 Oct 2018 19:13:28 -0700 (PDT), captainvideo462009@gmail.com
wrote:
 
>This is admittedly off topic but I thought that I would ask. I received this phone call from a guy at the above company Apparently you sign up with this outfit for 345 dollars a year and they say that they will feed you all kinds of leads for work. In my case due to my diversity that will be anything from TV repairs to alarm system installations and both residential and commercial. I don't like the idea of paying for leads that could very well turn into nothing not to mention my fear of this not even being a legitimate outfit. Does anyone know anything about this company? Thanks Lenny
As a consumer,
I tried using them to find a contractor after a semi backed into my
house. In a town of 50000 people, they sent no recommendations. I
wasn't pleased.
etpm@whidbey.com: Oct 21 04:23PM -0700

I have a Tektronix 465B. I bought it used because it was one of the
scopes recommended by folks who post here and on the electronics basic
group. And I know hardly anything about oscilloscopes. It has worked
very well until two days ago. The volts/div switch has one position
where the display gets all wanky. I thinks that's the proper technical
term. When any other position is chosen on the switch the display
works perfectly. In the one bad position the display shows different
types of wankyness as I wiggle the selector knob slightly back and
forth. So I'm thinking about spraying some Deoxit D5 into the switch.
I'll probably need to remove the scope cover to do this. Is this a bad
idea? Is there a better solution?
Thanks,
Eric
Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Oct 21 05:44PM -0700

>idea? Is there a better solution?
>Thanks,
>Eric
 
"Cleaning the Volts/Div Attenuator Switch Contacts in Tektronix 4XX
Oscilloscopes"
<http://fullnet.com/~tomg/tekclean.htm>
 
"Topic: Contact Cleaner and Switch lubricant"
<https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/contact-cleaner-and-switch-lubricant/>
 
"Tek 465 Cleaning"
<https://www.raynetrepair.us/tektronix-465/cleaning.html>
The recommendation of using WD-40 is controversial.
 
 
--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Oct 21 09:30PM -0500

On 10/21/18 7:44 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
> The recommendation of using WD-40 is controversial.
 
I refuse to use WD-40 for anything on equipment other than
removing adhesive residue.
 
 
 
--
"I am a river to my people."
Jeff-1.0
WA6FWi
http:foxsmercantile.com
Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Oct 21 08:42PM -0700

On Sun, 21 Oct 2018 21:30:37 -0500, Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>
wrote:
 
>> The recommendation of using WD-40 is controversial.
 
>I refuse to use WD-40 for anything on equipment other than
>removing adhesive residue.
 
I use Goof-Off, which is 25% to 50% mineral spirits. My thinking is
anything that stinks that bad must be powerful stuff.
 
Wired Magazine send some WD-40 to a lab to check its composition.
<https://www.wired.com/2009/04/st-whatsinside-6/>
Mineral oil, decane, nonane, tridecane, tetradecane, dimethyl
naphthalene, and cyclohexane. Mostly mineral oil, which is the
primary ingredient of most commercial solvents, cleaners, and
penetrating oils. The others are made from kerosene, naphtha, or
stoddard solvent, which I consider to be fairly similar:
<https://www.cdc.gov/niosh/ipcsneng/neng1381.html>
For example, Caig Deoxit Gold is 75% "oderless mineral spirits":
<https://system.na3.netsuite.com/core/media/media.nl?id=1567&c=ACCT113328&h=b0ad953fc4fc4d2d52cc&_xt=.pdf>
Bottom line: They're all basically the same stuff with a few
additives.
 
All contact cleaners include a mild acid to remove the surface oxides
from the contacts. In the distant past, Cramolin Red contained 95%
naphtha and 5% oleic acid for the purpose. Oleic acid is food safe
which makes it the ideal oxide remover. You can also get it cheap on
eBay if you want to mix your own.
<https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=oleic+acid>
 
The problem with oleic acid is that it has to be removed after it
strips off the oxides from the contacts or it will eventually corrode
any exposed copper. That caused problems for Caig, so they removed it
from the mix to be replaced with less aggressive oxide strippers.
 
Incidentally, if you also want an organically lubricated and smelling
oscilloscope, a little olive oil, which is 55% to 83% oleic acid,
might be an interesting substitute.
<https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Olive_oil#Constituents>
 
 
 
--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
gregz <zekor@comcast.net>: Oct 22 07:37AM

> idea? Is there a better solution?
> Thanks,
> Eric
 
Some cam switches I think I just used alcohol. I never did, pbut thinking
of lube or cleaner lube, I love CRC 2-26.
 
Greg
jurb6006@gmail.com: Oct 22 02:07AM -0700

Yeah, don't use WD-40 on that. If you really MUST have a lube in there use LPS-2. Then of course give it a squirt of solvent.
 
I don't like ANYTHING about those switches. I understand why they did it but still just don't like them.
 
Good luck with it.
Chris Jones <lugnut808@spam.yahoo.com>: Oct 23 12:01AM +1100

> idea? Is there a better solution?
> Thanks,
> Eric
 
Have a look in the service manual - it is online, or at least the one
for the 475 is, and that is the same construction style.
 
I recall reading that because the contacts are gold, they don't tarnish
and just need the dirt cleaned off, and would not benefit from any oily
residue (as left by many contact cleaner sprays). Also, since they are
open to the ventillation air, any oily residue will make dust stick to
it and bring back the problem sooner than with just a cleaning.
 
I expect that the recommended cleaning solvent is probably some sort of
Freon, but in the absence of that, pure isopropanol is probably ok.
 
The little contact forks that press against the PCB traces are very
delicate, so don't touch them with hard objects unless you know what you
are doing.
 
A problem that I had, with similar symptoms, is that the little
attenuators are socketed, and I had dirty sockets on one of mine.
Pulling out that attenuator and reseating it fixed it - the switches
were not the problem that time.
 
There is a table in the service manual telling you which attenuators are
switched in for which vertical volts/div setting. Using this table and
your observations about the "wankyness" on each range, you could
probably narrow it down to one attenuator, so that you have to mess with
it in the minimum number of places.
Arlen Holder <a%rlenh.older@no.spam.net>: Oct 21 06:39PM

Tutorial to run any Windows command directly on Android over either USB or Wi-Fi
 
When you plug an Android 4.3+ device set up as MTP into Windows over USB,
you can't run Windows commands _directly_ on the Android filesystem (yet).
<http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=9648761dir.jpg>
 
The goal is for everyone to be able to run any Windows command on the
entire Android filesystem, over USB (because it's fast, secure, & easy) &
over WiFi (because it works over the local network).
 
I've gone in the past couple of days about as far as I can go.
What we need from experts here is your added value to go further.
 
To that end, I summarize below where my knowledge falls off the cliff.
If you know more than I do, please improve these suggestions below.
 
*Goal: Run any Windows command directly on the Android filesystem.*
==========================================
*These worked perfectly in my tests (Android 7.0, Windows 10)*
==========================================
1. MTP over USB: (*MTPDrive*)
<http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=1853998dir02.jpg>
o Android set to MTP + MTPDrive payware on Windows
o Mount the Android filesystem as a drive letter on Windows
o MTPDrive freeware is limited to 30 files transferred per session
<http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=8315262dir03.jpg>
Tested with:
MTPDrive <http://mtpdrive.com/download.html>
 
2. MTP over USB: (*Linux*)
<http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=6181360dir01.jpg>
o Android set to MTP + dual-boot Ubuntu with Windows
o There are no limits whatsoever as to what you can do
Tested with:
Ubuntu 18.04 <https://www.ubuntu.com/download/desktop>
 
3. WebDAV over WiFi: (*net use*)
<http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=8605173dir05.jpg>
o WebDAV freeware server on Android + "net use" on Windows
o Mount the Android filesystem as a drive letter on Windows
o There are no limits whatsoever as to what you can do
Tested with:
<https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.theolivetree.webdavserver>
 
4. FTP over WiFi: (*DirectNetDrive*)
<http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=4731516dir011.jpg>
<http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=6340420dir012.jpg>
o FTP freeware server on Android + DnD freeware on Windows
o Mount the Android filesystem as a drive letter using DnD freeware
o There are no limits whatsoever as to what you can do
Tested with:
DirectNetDrive <http://www.directnet-drive.net/>
 
5. FTP over WiFi: (*NetDrive 1.3.2.0*)
<http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=1383190dir014.jpg>
o FTP freeware server on Android + (older) NetDrive freeware on Windows
o Mount the Android filesystem as a drive letter using NetDrive freeware
o There are no limits whatsoever as to what you can do
Tested with:
NetDrive 1.3.2.0 <https://filehippo.com/download_netdrive/12615/>
 
==========================================
*These worked to run commands - but we don't have a mounting solution.*
==========================================
6. MTP over USB: (*libMTP*, libusbK, libiconv)
<http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=4656598libtmp01.jpg>
o Plug in Android to USB + libMTP commands on Windows
o Can see and manipulate every file on the Android filesystem
o But it can't yet mount the Android filesystem as a drive letter
Tested with:
LibMTP <https://sourceforge.net/projects/libmtp/>
LibusbK <https://sourceforge.net/projects/libusb-win32/>
LibiConv <http://gnuwin32.sourceforge.net/packages/libiconv.htm>
 
==========================================
*These failed miserably in my tests - but they may work for others.*
==========================================
7. FTP over WiFi: (*net use*)
<http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=8734999ftpshare02.jpg>
o FTP server freeware on Android + "net use" on Windows
o Mount the Android filesystem as a drive letter on Windows
o I can't figure out the doublebackslash syntax to make it work!
Tested with:
<https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.theolivetree.ftpserver>
 
8. FTP over WiFi: (*FTPuse*)
<http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=7687244dir06.jpg>
<http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=7075400dir07.jpg>
<http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=3316456dir08.jpg>
<http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=7355568dir09.jpg>
<http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=4223201dir010.jpg>
o FTP server freeware on Android + FTPuse freeware on Windows
o Mount the Android filesystem as a drive letter using FTPuse freeware
o There are no limits whatsoever as to what you can do
Tested with:
FTPUse <https://www.ferrobackup.com/download/FtpUseInst.exe>
 
9. FTP over WiFi: (*SFTPNetDrive*)
<http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=2809525dir013.jpg>
o FTP server freeware on Android + SFTPNetDrive freeware on Windows
o Mount the Android filesystem as a drive letter using SFTPNetDrive
o There are no limits whatsoever as to what you can do
Tested with:
SFTP Net Drive <https://www.nsoftware.com/sftp/netdrive/>
 
10. SMB over WiFi: (*net use*)
o SMB server freeware on Android + native Windows "net use"
o Main problem is Android needs to be rooted to use TCP port 445
o Second problem is finding Android SMB server non-root freeware
Tested with:
<https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.icecoldapps.sambaserver>
 
==========================================
*These were not tested because they are trialware solutions.*
==========================================
11. FTP or WebDAV over WiFi: (*WebDrive*)
o FTP/WebDAV freeware server on Android + WebDrive trialware on Windows
o Mount the Android filesystem as a drive letter using WebDrive trialware
o The trialware is limited to 10 days
Not tested:
WebDrive <https://webdrive.com/download/>
 
12. FTP over WiFi: (*NetDrive*)
o FTP freeware server on Android + (current) NetDrive trialware on Windows
o Mount the Android filesystem as a drive letter using NetDrive trialware
o There are no limits whatsoever as to what you can do
Not tested:
NetDrive 3.6.571 <http://netdrive.net/
==========================================
In summary, we need your added value to get past where I am above.
a. Specifically - do you know the syntax for FTP "net use" mounts?
b. Do you know of an Android nonroot SMB server that works with Windows?
c. And most importantly, do you know of MTPdrive alternative freeware?
 
Above is where I fall off the cliff on trying to help everyone run any
Windows command directly on any Android 4.3+ filesystem over USB or WiFi.
 
As always, the goal is a universal solution for everyone.
If you can add value, please pitch in to improve our capabilities.
--
We are always far stronger together than any of us are all alone.
"pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Oct 22 05:22AM -0700

The Troll is back. Please do not feed the troll.
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