Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 17 updates in 1 topic

micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Jul 30 02:43PM -0400

When you use google maps to choose a route between two locations, and
choose walking or bicycling, it also shows starting and ending elevation
and a graph that shows changes, so you can see how many and how big the
hills are. Also useful, of course, just for finding elevation without
any walking.
 
But how does it know elevation. If a GPS gets signals from 3
satellites, it can calculate location, and if it gets signals from 4 of
them, it can calculate elevation. But the calculation is made in the
GPS device, such as a smartphone. Google doesn't have GPS devices at
any random location the user picks, and it has no way to read satellite
signals.
 
Is there some topographical map underlying the google maps, even though
there is no way to display that map wwithin google?
Jeff Urban <jurb6006@gmail.com>: Jul 30 11:46AM -0700

Satellite.
N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Jul 30 08:04PM +0100

On 30/07/2019 19:43, micky wrote:
> signals.
 
> Is there some topographical map underlying the google maps, even though
> there is no way to display that map wwithin google?
 
Check out a convenient Google height and you'll find its a load of junk.
In the UK luckily there are still a lot of surviving Ordnance Survey
benchmarks around and you can optically survey to them and easily get to
mm accurace if no more than 1-200m away (wrt the old map data containing
benchmark heights).
It is possible of course that the underlying land has risen or fallen
from post glacial isostatic rebound or water/oil extraction etc.
But even with mobile phone link dGPS (aGPS) surveying the
resolution/repeatability is no better than 15mm. And can easily be a lot
worse and without a second method (eg benchmarks) you won't know.
Outside the UK I've no idea if there are other networks of benchmarks.
I would like to find an "ap" where , as the GPS orbits are known , that
it would be possible to find times in the near future where 4 satellites
would be near enough overhead and none at lower elevation.
I wonder what sort of height determination you could get with that for
height determination.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
--
Monthly public talks on science topics, Hampshire , England
<http://diverse.4mg.com/scicaf.htm>
Andy Burns <usenet@andyburns.uk>: Jul 30 08:06PM +0100

micky wrote:
 
> Google doesn't have GPS devices at
> any random location the user picks
 
Every user carrying a GPS enabled android device is crowd-sourcing data
for google, if someone's been there, google will know the altitude.
"\"Retired"@home.com: Jul 30 03:24PM -0400

On 7/30/19 2:43 PM, micky wrote:
 
> Is there some topographical map underlying the google maps, even though
> there is no way to display that map wwithin google?
 
 
If you click on the GMaps Menu icon (3 line "hamburger" on top left)
there is a choice called "Terrain"
 
While not a true USGS topo map, you get the idea.
scott@slp53.sl.home (Scott Lurndal): Jul 30 08:19PM

>> any random location the user picks
 
>Every user carrying a GPS enabled android device is crowd-sourcing data
>for google, if someone's been there, google will know the altitude.
 
Nonsense.
Bennett <bjprice@cal.berkeley.edu>: Jul 30 03:48PM -0700

On 7/30/2019 11:43 AM, micky wrote:
> signals.
 
> Is there some topographical map underlying the google maps, even though
> there is no way to display that map wwithin google?
 
Just a guess that Google Maps could use elevation data from Google
Earth, (or its sources), which, according to this paper from 2017, makes
GE generally accurate:
https://journals.plos.org/plosone/article?id=10.1371/journal.pone.0175756
 
Apparently there are lots of accurate sources for elevation data.
micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Jul 30 07:02PM -0400

In alt.home.repair, on Tue, 30 Jul 2019 20:19:06 GMT,
>>> any random location the user picks
 
>>Every user carrying a GPS enabled android device is crowd-sourcing data
>>for google, if someone's been there, google will know the altitude.
 
That's a thought.
 
>Nonsense.
 
That's a thought, too!
 
BTW, I tried to use google walking to see how much elevation change
there was to the top of the next hill. I had thought the top of the
hill was the big street nearby, going along a crest (although crest
sounds more like a mountain than a hill.)
 
I found out, if it's at all correct, that's it's about halfway between
that big street and the next one aand that my elevation is about 400
feet. Typically, google directions gives three routes, and when I
changed to one of the others, it changed my elevation to 403 feet, even
though it was the same place.
 
It turns out I'm about 65 feet below the top of the ridge of hills a
half mile away. I think I don't get as much breeze as I would if I
were higher up. I'm not sure because I can't be in two places at once
and I spend comparitively little time farther up the hill. I like
living next to a stream, but not getting much breeze seems to be the
other side of the coin.
 
Does it seem correct to you that a mere 65' valley would be enough to
lessen the breeze I get?
micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Jul 30 07:17PM -0400

In alt.home.repair, on Tue, 30 Jul 2019 15:24:37 -0400,
 
>If you click on the GMaps Menu icon (3 line "hamburger" on top left)
>there is a choice called "Terrain"
 
>While not a true USGS topo map, you get the idea.
 
Wow. I saw that years ago but I guess I forgot.
 
And that was just what I meant, a topographical map already ;inked to to
the street map.
 
I guess that answers the question.
 
 
Gfretwell said:
>My guess is the Google Car that shoots all of the street view pictures
>is using GPS to link the pictures to the map and they get the
>elevation data at the same time.
 
That would make sense, and would be a lot easier than a lot of the
things they do.
 
Did you all know that besides the Google Car, there is now the Google
Man, who wears the camera a couple feet above his head, and they have
streetview pictures of some places one can only walk.
 
I think once I saw google pictures from a bicycle.
 
 
Thanks, all.
rbowman <bowman@montana.com>: Jul 30 07:04PM -0600

On 07/30/2019 12:43 PM, micky wrote:
> GPS device, such as a smartphone. Google doesn't have GPS devices at
> any random location the user picks, and it has no way to read satellite
> signals
 
Probably LIDAR.
 
https://gisgeography.com/dem-dsm-dtm-differences/
 
https://gizmodo.com/google-has-its-own-fleet-of-airplanes-to-map-the-world-5916290
 
The gizmodo article talks about photographing for the 3D imagery but
while you're flying around might as well get the LIDAR data too.
Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Jul 30 09:41PM -0700


>If you click on the GMaps Menu icon (3 line "hamburger" on top left)
>there is a choice called "Terrain"
 
>While not a true USGS topo map, you get the idea.
 
Yep. The basic numbers come from various elevation and terrain models
and databases. For example:
<https://www.usgs.gov/faqs/where-can-i-get-elevation-data?qt-news_science_products=7#qt-news_science_products>
<https://www.usgs.gov/core-science-systems/ngp/3dep/about-3dep-products-services>
<http://vterrain.org/Elevation/global.html>
<https://gisgeography.com/free-global-dem-data-sources/>
etc. There are ground level elevation maps, maps that include tree
and building heights for urban radio propagation studies, and maps
that include ocean bottom depths instead of ocean surface. There's
even a database of elevation databases:
<https://catalog.data.gov/dataset?tags=elevation>
 
For radio propagation studies, I use Radio Mobile software:
<http://www.ve2dbe.com/english1.html>
and SRTM (shuttle radar topography mission) 1 arc second (30 meter)
maps:
<https://www2.jpl.nasa.gov/srtm/>
 
I usually take the Radio Mobile maps, which show elevation,
<http://www.learnbydestroying.com/jeffl/coverage/VZW-water-plant/Picture11a.jpg>
and overlay them with the corresponding Google Earth map to produce
something like this cell site coverage map:
<http://www.learnbydestroying.com/jeffl/coverage/VZW-water-plant/Picture11a-google-earth.jpg>
 
The problem in not the lack of elevation maps, but rather an
overchoice of which one to use.
 
 
--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
whit3rd <whit3rd@gmail.com>: Jul 31 12:13AM -0700

On Tuesday, July 30, 2019 at 11:43:32 AM UTC-7, micky wrote:
> hills are. Also useful, of course, just for finding elevation without
> any walking.
 
> But how does it know elevation. If a GPS gets signals...
 
Elevation maps have been made before satellites, from aerial surveys; just the
change in position of objects with motion of a plane (flying a well-known path)
causes the successive images to show parallax. The resulting topographic
maps are widely available; orienteering wouldn't be possible without them.
micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Jul 31 04:54AM -0400

Another great discovery when clicking on the hamburger.
 
It has a line called streetview.
 
clicking that turns on all the streetview lines and dots, so that you
don't have to move Pegman each time you want to see one. You don't have
to use Pegman at all, just click on the location, and after you close
that window, the map with all streetview lines and dots will still be
there.
 
Did you all know that when a streetview on a line is open and there is
an arrow superimposed on the pavement, you can click on the arrow and
the next circular picture will be displayed, and maybe you can skip
ahead 2 or 3 pictures if you position the arrow farther away. This is
good when you're looking for the perfect view or something specific.
 
 
In alt.home.repair, on Tue, 30 Jul 2019 19:17:45 -0400, micky
Rob <nomail@example.com>: Jul 31 09:06AM

> GPS device, such as a smartphone. Google doesn't have GPS devices at
> any random location the user picks, and it has no way to read satellite
> signals.
 
Google maps is not related to GPS!
Google maps is a MAP. A static piece of data that you can navigate.
 
When you have a map on paper (no idea how old you are and if you
have ever seen one), you don't ask "how can the map know this road
is here when it doesn't use GPS" either.
Rob <nomail@example.com>: Jul 31 09:08AM

>> any random location the user picks
 
> Every user carrying a GPS enabled android device is crowd-sourcing data
> for google, if someone's been there, google will know the altitude.
 
Google maps doesn't feed back user information into the maps, they
use existing survey data and also do their own surveys and photography.
 
The only feedback you see in the maps is the traffic info, obtained
by observing speed of users along roads.
rbowman <bowman@montana.com>: Jul 31 07:42AM -0600

On 07/31/2019 03:06 AM, Rob wrote:
 
> When you have a map on paper (no idea how old you are and if you
> have ever seen one), you don't ask "how can the map know this road
> is here when it doesn't use GPS" either.
 
It's related so far as the rendered map is based on WGS84 and a
particular latitude and longitude relates to a number of tiles (png's)
depending on the zoom level.
 
Ultimately it relates to vector data that describes the road and is
rendered to produce the map tiles. The Google cars are collecting
photographic data but they are also collecting the GPS coordinates used
to build or update the vector data.
 
The photographic material is geotagged so it can be related to the
location. Mist smart phones and newer digital cameras do the same thing.
The EXIF data embedded in the image contains the location where the
photo was taken.
 
http://exifdata.com/
 
Note that is you run around taking selfies your camera or phone might
rat you out by putting you in a specific place at a specific time. The
same data allows you to position the photo accurately on a digital map.
 
 
Paper maps tended to do a lot of guessing.
rbowman <bowman@montana.com>: Jul 31 07:51AM -0600

On 07/31/2019 03:08 AM, Rob wrote:
> Google maps doesn't feed back user information into the maps, they
> use existing survey data and also do their own surveys and photography.
 
https://support.google.com/maps/answer/3094088
 
Google does receive user input. OSM (Open Street Map) depends on user
input to a great extent although some information comes from publicly
available data like TIGER/Line in the US. Especially in Europe it can be
very accurate.
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 5 updates in 1 topic

Stu jaxon <stankowalski02@gmail.com>: Jul 28 01:37PM -0700

On Saturday, July 27, 2019 at 1:58:24 PM UTC-4, John-Del wrote:
 
> They should have no less than several thousand ohms on any of those points. If you get a low reading, disconnect the TCON. If the short goes away, your TCON is shorted. Install you second TCON and read again. If the short reappears, your second TCON is shorted.
 
> If you get a low ohm condition to ground on the fuses or the FB, you'll blow fuses every time you plug it in.
 
> Those caps are bypass filters to ground and will read short if the source they're on is feeding a shorted device. Those larger caps might also be bypassed by low value low ESR ceramic caps, any of which will present a short across any of the parts paralleled in the circuit.
 
I'm outta fuses, any idea where i can find them..?, the Length is about.1/4 in, or 6.25mm. i searched and searched all I can find is the small ones.
Stu jaxon <stankowalski02@gmail.com>: Jul 28 01:56PM -0700

On Saturday, July 27, 2019 at 1:58:24 PM UTC-4, John-Del wrote:
 
> They should have no less than several thousand ohms on any of those points. If you get a low reading, disconnect the TCON. If the short goes away, your TCON is shorted. Install you second TCON and read again. If the short reappears, your second TCON is shorted.
 
> If you get a low ohm condition to ground on the fuses or the FB, you'll blow fuses every time you plug it in.
 
> Those caps are bypass filters to ground and will read short if the source they're on is feeding a shorted device. Those larger caps might also be bypassed by low value low ESR ceramic caps, any of which will present a short across any of the parts paralleled in the circuit.
 
oops, the length on the fuse is 2/8 or 6.25mm.
Stu jaxon <stankowalski02@gmail.com>: Jul 28 03:30PM -0700

On Saturday, July 27, 2019 at 1:58:24 PM UTC-4, John-Del wrote:
 
> They should have no less than several thousand ohms on any of those points. If you get a low reading, disconnect the TCON. If the short goes away, your TCON is shorted. Install you second TCON and read again. If the short reappears, your second TCON is shorted.
 
> If you get a low ohm condition to ground on the fuses or the FB, you'll blow fuses every time you plug it in.
 
> Those caps are bypass filters to ground and will read short if the source they're on is feeding a shorted device. Those larger caps might also be bypassed by low value low ESR ceramic caps, any of which will present a short across any of the parts paralleled in the circuit.
 
I tested FB416 near the lvds cable both sides to ground on the main board, a short on both sides, .6 ohms. removed the lvds cable from the Tcon board short went away. is there anyway to test the panel for a short.?
John-Del <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Jul 28 03:55PM -0700

On Sunday, July 28, 2019 at 6:30:03 PM UTC-4, Stu jaxon wrote:
 
> > If you get a low ohm condition to ground on the fuses or the FB, you'll blow fuses every time you plug it in.
 
> > Those caps are bypass filters to ground and will read short if the source they're on is feeding a shorted device. Those larger caps might also be bypassed by low value low ESR ceramic caps, any of which will present a short across any of the parts paralleled in the circuit.
 
> I tested FB416 near the lvds cable both sides to ground on the main board, a short on both sides, .6 ohms. removed the lvds cable from the Tcon board short went away. is there anyway to test the panel for a short.?
 
It's unlikely the panel is causing the problem. The only TV I know of that would blow the TCON because of a shorted display is the Vizio E701i-A3.
 
You need to acquire another TCON, and *before* you power the TV up, measure the resistances of the fuses and ferrite bead to ground with all the boards connected. If you pick up the short, you bought another bad TCON.
 
If there are no shorts at this point, power up the TV with the two ribbons disconnected from the display. If the backlights stay on and the TV runs for 10 minutes or so, unplug the TV and reconnect the ribbons to the display and try again. If the TCON shorts with the ribbons reconnected, then you have a bad display taking out the TCON. I would suspect Windex Syndrome (cleaning solution sprayed on the screen in such a volume that it drips below the front mask and attacks the bonded address boards).
Stu jaxon <stankowalski02@gmail.com>: Jul 28 04:21PM -0700

On Sunday, July 28, 2019 at 6:55:54 PM UTC-4, John-Del wrote:
 
> It's unlikely the panel is causing the problem. The only TV I know of that would blow the TCON because of a shorted display is the Vizio E701i-A3.
 
> You need to acquire another TCON, and *before* you power the TV up, measure the resistances of the fuses and ferrite bead to ground with all the boards connected. If you pick up the short, you bought another bad TCON.
 
> If there are no shorts at this point, power up the TV with the two ribbons disconnected from the display. If the backlights stay on and the TV runs for 10 minutes or so, unplug the TV and reconnect the ribbons to the display and try again. If the TCON shorts with the ribbons reconnected, then you have a bad display taking out the TCON. I would suspect Windex Syndrome (cleaning solution sprayed on the screen in such a volume that it drips below the front mask and attacks the bonded address boards).
 
OK, Thanks for all your help. now I have to order a new tcon board and fuses. and there are no tcon boards available for this tv that i found.
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 2 updates in 1 topic

Stu jaxon <stankowalski02@gmail.com>: Jul 27 09:52AM -0700

On Saturday, July 27, 2019 at 12:01:14 AM UTC-4, Jeff Urban wrote:
> I don't know if it works on all of them today, but if you take your fingers and bounce them kinda hard and you see glimpses of light the backlight is working. You might be missing power to the Tcon or have a bad Tcon. Unfortunately I do not recommend putting any money into this new junk.
 
> Best course of action now is to always save the box and get he longest FACTORY warranty they have after you buy a new one.
 
> Only other thing is to look for bad caps. Either the bulge or not but I got other ways of testing them.
 
I did bounce the ribbon cables around, no flicker, than again the main board fuse f701 is blown, no 12v on either side fb401. how do i find the fuse ratings for the main board, and you said you have other ways of testing the caps on the tcon..?
John-Del <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Jul 27 10:58AM -0700


> I changed the fuse f701 on the main board before you posted. I installed the original tcon board, and powered on the tv, and got no pic, no audio, and the backlights went on and then off, no blown fuse. so, i installed the new tcon board recently purchased from ebay, and the fuse f701 blew. I should have removed the ribbon cables, I tested some caps on the original and found that three metal cylindrical caps are shorted. I know it makes no sense. but anyways, I returned the new board back to ebay, and am going to purchase a new one. I want to make the tests you mentioned but am out of fuses, so how i can i find the ratings on them, it's a smd white fuse with a number 5 on it, any ideas..?
 
The two fuses on the main are marked with a T. According to my notes, that makes them 5A 32V.
 
Again, you're not differentiating what boards are what.
 
Did you blow fuses on both mains?
 
One more time: replace the fuses on one of the mains and install the complete set of boards. Do not turn the TV on. Read the resistance of the fuses on the main and FB416 near the LVDS connector on the main to ground.
 
They should have no less than several thousand ohms on any of those points. If you get a low reading, disconnect the TCON. If the short goes away, your TCON is shorted. Install you second TCON and read again. If the short reappears, your second TCON is shorted.
 
If you get a low ohm condition to ground on the fuses or the FB, you'll blow fuses every time you plug it in.
 
Those caps are bypass filters to ground and will read short if the source they're on is feeding a shorted device. Those larger caps might also be bypassed by low value low ESR ceramic caps, any of which will present a short across any of the parts paralleled in the circuit.
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 3 updates in 1 topic

str00ntz@aol.com: Jul 26 01:19PM -0700


> > > Old Tcon board... .4 ohms both sides,.. lvds unplugged .3 ohms... TV on .2mv on FB TV lvds unplgged pins closest to FB 2v- .3 mv.. hope i covered everything...
 
> > Standby till Monday. I have a donor set of boards for that model but it's for the version with a separate TCON and FRC, so I don't have the combo TCON that you do. Still, the voltages from the main should be the same on the LVDS harness. I'll put the boards together and get some voltage readings.
 
> I found both fuses on the main boards are open f701,.. circled in yellow, the fuses are next to cn701 harness from the power supply. https://imgur.com/a/yf8cz7v
 
Stan, you have two original boards and two replacement boards. It's important to identify if any particular voltage or resistance is on the original, the replacement, or both!
 
I have a main for a similar model that I was able to power up. With the TV ON, at fuse F701 there should be 12V on both sides of the fuse if the fuse is good.. F702 should have 24V, same conditions.
 
Near the LVDS output harness on the main is a ferrite bead smd FB416. There should be 12V on that.
 
With the TV powered down, the main disconnected from the TV, and enough time gone by to make sure voltage is bled off the main, there should be a resistance of no less than several thousand ohms.
 
If those resistances are OK, plug the main back into the TCON. If the resistance drops anywhere to the tens of ohms or lower, the TCON is bad.
 
Make sure you runs these tests on all boards in every combination.
Stu jaxon <stankowalski02@gmail.com>: Jul 26 07:56PM -0700


> With the TV powered down, the main disconnected from the TV, and enough time gone by to make sure voltage is bled off the main, there should be a resistance of no less than several thousand ohms.
 
> If those resistances are OK, plug the main back into the TCON. If the resistance drops anywhere to the tens of ohms or lower, the TCON is bad.
 
> Make sure you runs these tests on all boards in every combination.
 
I changed the fuse f701 on the main board before you posted. I installed the original tcon board, and powered on the tv, and got no pic, no audio, and the backlights went on and then off, no blown fuse. so, i installed the new tcon board recently purchased from ebay, and the fuse f701 blew. I should have removed the ribbon cables, I tested some caps on the original and found that three metal cylindrical caps are shorted. I know it makes no sense. but anyways, I returned the new board back to ebay, and am going to purchase a new one. I want to make the tests you mentioned but am out of fuses, so how i can i find the ratings on them, it's a smd white fuse with a number 5 on it, any ideas..?
Jeff Urban <jurb6006@gmail.com>: Jul 26 09:01PM -0700

I don't know if it works on all of them today, but if you take your fingers and bounce them kinda hard and you see glimpses of light the backlight is working. You might be missing power to the Tcon or have a bad Tcon. Unfortunately I do not recommend putting any money into this new junk.
 
Best course of action now is to always save the box and get he longest FACTORY warranty they have after you buy a new one.
 
Only other thing is to look for bad caps. Either the bulge or not but I got other ways of testing them.
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 3 updates in 1 topic

Adrian Caspersz <email@here.invalid>: Jul 24 02:04PM +0100

On 11/05/2019 22:41, root wrote:
 
> I have tried other NVidia cards, several versions of the 610 and
> all show the same problem. Other NVidia cards such as the 210 and
> 710 do not show the interlace problem.
 
Forget the splitter. You need to connect....
 
PC - TV - Receiver.
 
One of your TV's HDMI inputs should be supporting ARC (Audio Return
Channel) - this will provide pass-through audio on all channels to the
receiver.
 
It's an interesting exercise to check all independent channel outputs
actually work from your PC mixer. With all HDMI it should be a breeze.
 
In my case as my own receiver doesn't support HDMI, I make do with the
optical output from my TV, sending audio to that over HDMI encoded as
Dolby Digital 5.1 using the A52 plugin.
 
https://www.alsa-project.org/wiki/A52_plugin
 
Just mentioning but you definitely don't need that :)
 
--
Adrian C
root <NoEMail@home.org>: Jul 24 02:14PM

> Dolby Digital 5.1 using the A52 plugin.
 
> https://www.alsa-project.org/wiki/A52_plugin
 
> Just mentioning but you definitely don't need that :)
 
Thanks for responding. I found there is a significant delay in
the sound when the receiver is set to TV. Also the sound is
then stereo instead of 7.2 HDMI.
Adrian Caspersz <email@here.invalid>: Jul 24 04:37PM +0100

On 24/07/2019 15:14, root wrote:
 
>> Just mentioning but you definitely don't need that :)
 
> Thanks for responding. I found there is a significant delay in
> the sound when the receiver is set to TV.
 
That sounds like a delay function has been left active in the receiver,
that should be turned off. It may have been previously enabled, so that
sound and picture are in sync after the time taken for picture processing.
 
Also the sound is
> then stereo instead of 7.2 HDMI.
 
https://www.techradar.com/news/hdmi-arc-what-is-audio-return-channel-and-why-should-i-use-it
 
Looking at the table on the above page, that is from the use of
HDMI-ARC, and not HDMI-eARC.
 
Your TV needs to support HDMI 2.1 for that.
 
If you haven't got HDMI 2.1, I think your splitter implementation is
possibly more justified now!
 
--
Adrian C
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 7 updates in 4 topics

Mike S <mscir@yahoo.com>: Jul 22 08:56PM -0700

On 7/22/2019 7:07 AM, root wrote:
> because it has no output. At least that is how I figure it to
> work. With this arrangement, and a new video card, the system
> is working very well.
 
Your analysis makes sense, glad you solved it.
Stu jaxon <stankowalski02@gmail.com>: Jul 22 03:59PM -0700

On Sunday, July 21, 2019 at 9:21:18 AM UTC-4, John-Del wrote:
 
> > with the new tcon board installed, ON FB to ground both sides are .3-4m ohms. with lvds unplugged 400k one side other 300k ohms.. TV on testing pins closest to FB the highest was 1.4v - 0v..
 
> > Old Tcon board... .4 ohms both sides,.. lvds unplugged .3 ohms... TV on .2mv on FB TV lvds unplgged pins closest to FB 2v- .3 mv.. hope i covered everything...
 
> Standby till Monday. I have a donor set of boards for that model but it's for the version with a separate TCON and FRC, so I don't have the combo TCON that you do. Still, the voltages from the main should be the same on the LVDS harness. I'll put the boards together and get some voltage readings.
 
I found both fuses on the main boards are open f701,.. circled in yellow, the fuses are next to cn701 harness from the power supply. https://imgur.com/a/yf8cz7v
tabbypurr@gmail.com: Jul 22 03:01PM -0700

On Monday, 22 July 2019 11:01:31 UTC+1, Phil Allison wrote:
> tabbypurr wrote:
 
> > What you don't understand is that you're in your own world.
 
> ** What the lunatic Thornton Troll does not understand is that he is completely out of his fucking head.
 
that's one way to confirm what I said
plonk
etpm@whidbey.com: Jul 22 10:34AM -0700

On Mon, 22 Jul 2019 05:06:05 -0700 (PDT), "pfjw@aol.com"
 
>The chemistry in that battery had "flipped over" such that it was producing current opposite to the marked poles. Not uncommon with cheap batteries that often blow up even before being unwrapped.
 
>Peter Wieck
>Melrose Park, PA
I know the chemistry somehow reversed. What I would like is an
explanation of what happened in detail. How the chemistry reverses.
Eric
Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Jul 22 12:47PM -0500


> I know the chemistry somehow reversed. What I would like is an
> explanation of what happened in detail. How the chemistry reverses.
> Eric
 
Completely discharged batteries can be reverse charged.
So, imagine, a dead cell in series with others, there's your
reverse charging potential.
 
 
--
"I am a river to my people."
Jeff-1.0
WA6FWi
http:foxsmercantile.com
"pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Jul 22 11:33AM -0700

> I know the chemistry somehow reversed. What I would like is an
> explanation of what happened in detail. How the chemistry reverses.
> Eric
 
OK:
 
Parts and pieces, simplified:
 
Zinc anode current collector.
Manganese Oxide Cathode.
Potassium Hydroxide Electrolyte/Anode
 
Chemical Reactions = power + heat.
External Heat will increase the completeness of the reaction.
When that heat is removed, there is an opportunity for the reaction to reverse.
When the expansion seal fails (the chemical reactions increase internal volume, and so will cause cheap batteries to leak), oxygen added to the system will react with the other chemicals and start that reverse reaction.
 
Notice that the reverse reaction is a very tiny fraction of the primary reaction, and needs a considerable and elaborate sequence-of-events to take place:
 
a) Over Reaction
b) Leak
c) Oxygen
 
Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
John-Del <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Jul 22 01:03PM -0700

On Monday, July 22, 2019 at 1:47:53 PM UTC-4, Fox's Mercantile wrote:
> Jeff-1.0
> WA6FWi
> http:foxsmercantile.com
 
 
Yep. You see this a lot when people mix batteries in a device. Almost invariably, one will be die before the others and get reverse charged.
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 8 updates in 3 topics

"pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Jul 22 05:06AM -0700

As to how you would get 'negative' voltage. Consider what happens when you connect your VOM with the leads reversed.
 
The chemistry in that battery had "flipped over" such that it was producing current opposite to the marked poles. Not uncommon with cheap batteries that often blow up even before being unwrapped.
 
Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
"Percival P. Cassidy" <Nobody@NotMyISP.net>: Jul 22 12:10PM -0400

On 7/20/19 10:11 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
 
 
> However, that doesn't mean that manufacturers can't retaliate and make
> life difficult. Try scraping all the peanut butter out of these jars:
> <https://www.google.com/search?q=peanut+butter+"sun-pat"&tbm=isch>
 
This is pretty close to what I had:
 
 
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tovolo-5-Serrated-Icing-Spatula-Cakes-And-Pastry-Kitchen-Baking/222395160334?hash=item33c7c8d70e:g:GFQAAOSw5cNYkS7q
 
Perce
Mike S <mscir@yahoo.com>: Jul 22 01:46AM -0700

On 5/11/2019 2:41 PM, root wrote:
> The computer runs 24/7 thereafter.
 
> Could there be a simple solution for connecting the
> components together which might correct the problem?
 
could it be that the signal going from the Denon to the television is
HDMI 1.4 and the signal out of the video card is HDMI 2.0?
 
".... the primary reason for the switch to HDMI 2.0 is that 4K Ultra HD
televisions require much more bandwidth to realize their full potential.
Since 4K Ultra HD is four times the resolution of 1080p, the former HD
standard, it requires more throughput to handle extra data going back
and forth. Lots more.
 
HDMI 1.4 supported 4K resolutions, yes, but only at 24 or 30 frames per
second (fps). That works fine for movies but isn't useful for gaming and
many TV broadcasts, which require 50 or 60 fps. Also, HDMI 1.4 limited
4K Ultra HD content to 8-bit color, though it is capable of 10- or
12-bit color. HDMI 2.0 fixed all of that because it could handle up to
18 gigabits per second — plenty enough to allow for 12-bit color and
video up to 60 frames per second."
 
https://www.digitaltrends.com/home-theater/what-is-hdmi-2-0/
root <NoEMail@home.org>: Jul 22 02:07PM

> 18 gigabits per second ??? plenty enough to allow for 12-bit color and
> video up to 60 frames per second."
 
> https://www.digitaltrends.com/home-theater/what-is-hdmi-2-0/
 
 
Thanks for responding. I bought a replacement (identical) video card
and the problem was fixed. The Denon receiver specs do not indicate
whether it is 1.4 or 2.x, but it talks about 3D passthrough and
4K upconversion. I added a HDMI splitter in front of the receiver
so that one output goes to the receiver, and the other goes
directly to the TV. As I understand HDMI the source interrogates
the display and sends the appropriate output. The TV will respond
with its characteristics, but the receiver is not able to respond
because it has no output. At least that is how I figure it to
work. With this arrangement, and a new video card, the system
is working very well.
tabbypurr@gmail.com: Jul 21 04:17PM -0700

On Sunday, 21 July 2019 05:29:54 UTC+1, Phil Allison wrote:
> >.
 
> > And yes, I know the difference between 'lightning' and 'Lightning' and 'usb' and 'USB'....and anybody with 1/2 a brain would understand the meaning and context of the question.
 
> ** There was no context, you bulshitting ass.
 
Well there is the thread heading 'source of lightning plug'
Then there were the sentences in the OP that made it all pretty clear.
And there was the use of the phrase 'lightning plug' in an electronics ng.
But other than that
 
 
 
> ** Nothing neurotic about me - asshole.
 
> .... Phil
 
no-one could care less if he capitalises it. Except Phil, who loses it over someone not using a capital letter.
Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Jul 21 09:15PM -0700


> > > And yes, I know the difference between 'lightning' and 'Lightning' and 'usb' and 'USB'....and anybody with 1/2 a brain would understand the meaning and context of the question. > >
 
> > ** There was no context, you bulshitting ass.
 
> Well there is the thread heading 'source of lightning plug'
 
 
** Yawnnnn - so fucking what?
 
 
> Then there were the sentences in the OP that made it all pretty clear.
 
 
** Nothing was clear from the OP's first post alone.
 
You bullshitting ass.
 
 
 
> > ** Nothing neurotic about me - asshole.
 
> no-one could care less if he capitalises it.
 
 
** Now the lying pile of criminal excrement speaks for the WHOLE world ???!
 
Wot an egomaniac raving lunatic.
 
Nothing but a POS, fuckhead, damn troll.
 
 
 
 
..... Phil
tabbypurr@gmail.com: Jul 22 01:04AM -0700

On Monday, 22 July 2019 05:15:24 UTC+1, Phil Allison wrote:
 
> Nothing but a POS, fuckhead, damn troll.
 
> ..... Phil
 
What you don't understand is that you're in your own world.
 
 
NT
Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Jul 22 03:01AM -0700

"Some Criminal Nut Case calling itself tabby wrote:"
------------------------------------------------------
 
 
> > ..... Phil
 
> What you don't understand is that you're in your own world.
 
** What the lunatic Thornton Troll does not understand is that he is completely out of his fucking head.
 
 
 
 
... Phil
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 13 updates in 4 topics

Stu jaxon <stankowalski02@gmail.com>: Jul 20 12:46PM -0700

On Friday, July 19, 2019 at 8:19:59 PM UTC-4, John-Del wrote:
 
> You're confusing me. Are you saying that both the original TCON board and the one you just bought are showing a low ohm short to ground as read on that ferrite bead near the LVDS cable?
 
> >I put the original main board back in, and got two 12v & 5v inputs to the tcon on cn702..
 
> Again, see if there is any 12DC voltage on the LVDS connector when it is disconnected from the TCON. IIRC, the CN702 connector goes to the power supply, not the main. Is there 12V on the LVDS connector when it is lifted off the TCON?
 
OK, I miss read your post, I measured the fb on v scale, now i measured on ohms scale and with the tv on I get OL with the backlights on, when the backlights go out the fb reads lights a cap starts high 320k on both sides, this is with the new board recently purchased from ebay.. and what wire am i supposed to get 12v on at lvds connector when i pull it, there's 20-30 wires..?
Stu jaxon <stankowalski02@gmail.com>: Jul 20 02:27PM -0700

On Saturday, July 20, 2019 at 3:46:06 PM UTC-4, Stu jaxon wrote:
John-Del <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Jul 20 03:37PM -0700

> > Again, see if there is any 12DC voltage on the LVDS connector when it is disconnected from the TCON. IIRC, the CN702 connector goes to the power supply, not the main. Is there 12V on the LVDS connector when it is lifted off the TCON?
 
> OK, I miss read your post, I measured the fb on v scale, now i measured on ohms scale and with the tv on I get OL with the backlights on, when the backlights go out the fb reads lights a cap starts high 320k on both sides, this is with the new board recently purchased from ebay.. and what wire am i supposed to get 12v on at lvds connector when i pull it, there's 20-30 wires..?
 
 
OK, let's go back one step at a time...
 
With the TV off and your meter on ohms, what is the resistance at the fb to ground?
 
With the TV still off and the LVDS harness unplugged from the TCON and your meter on ohms, what is the resistance on the fb to ground?
 
With the TV on and your meter now set to DC volts, what voltage are you reading at the fb?
 
 
Do not attempt to read ohms with the TV running!
 
If you are getting 12V on the fb, you don't need to look for the voltage at the LVDS harness. But if there is no voltage at the fb, then we want to look for it with the TCON disconnected by reading it at the unplugged LVDS harness.
 
With the LVDS harness unplugged, you should be able to read 12V on several pins. The correct pins will be physically close to the fb, in other words, the first couple of pins at the side of the harness that would be close to the fb.
 
Perform all those tests using your original TCON and your replacement board. If there is a difference between them, then answer for both.
Stu jaxon <stankowalski02@gmail.com>: Jul 20 04:53PM -0700

On Saturday, July 20, 2019 at 6:37:17 PM UTC-4, John-Del wrote:
 
> If you are getting 12V on the fb, you don't need to look for the voltage at the LVDS harness. But if there is no voltage at the fb, then we want to look for it with the TCON disconnected by reading it at the unplugged LVDS harness.
 
> With the LVDS harness unplugged, you should be able to read 12V on several pins. The correct pins will be physically close to the fb, in other words, the first couple of pins at the side of the harness that would be close to the fb.
 
> Perform all those tests using your original TCON and your replacement board. If there is a difference between them, then answer for both.
 
with the new tcon board installed, ON FB to ground both sides are .3-4m ohms. with lvds unplugged 400k one side other 300k ohms.. TV on testing pins closest to FB the highest was 1.4v - 0v..
 
Old Tcon board... .4 ohms both sides,.. lvds unplugged .3 ohms... TV on .2mv on FB TV lvds unplgged pins closest to FB 2v- .3 mv.. hope i covered everything...
Stu jaxon <stankowalski02@gmail.com>: Jul 20 05:16PM -0700

On Saturday, July 20, 2019 at 7:53:56 PM UTC-4, Stu jaxon wrote:
Stu jaxon <stankowalski02@gmail.com>: Jul 20 06:18PM -0700

On Saturday, July 20, 2019 at 8:16:51 PM UTC-4, Stu jaxon wrote:
Stu jaxon <stankowalski02@gmail.com>: Jul 20 06:20PM -0700

On Saturday, July 20, 2019 at 8:16:51 PM UTC-4, Stu jaxon wrote:
John-Del <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Jul 21 06:21AM -0700

On Saturday, July 20, 2019 at 7:53:56 PM UTC-4, Stu jaxon wrote:
 
> > Perform all those tests using your original TCON and your replacement board. If there is a difference between them, then answer for both.
 
> with the new tcon board installed, ON FB to ground both sides are .3-4m ohms. with lvds unplugged 400k one side other 300k ohms.. TV on testing pins closest to FB the highest was 1.4v - 0v..
 
> Old Tcon board... .4 ohms both sides,.. lvds unplugged .3 ohms... TV on .2mv on FB TV lvds unplgged pins closest to FB 2v- .3 mv.. hope i covered everything...
 
Standby till Monday. I have a donor set of boards for that model but it's for the version with a separate TCON and FRC, so I don't have the combo TCON that you do. Still, the voltages from the main should be the same on the LVDS harness. I'll put the boards together and get some voltage readings.
jjhudak4@gmail.com: Jul 20 10:20AM -0700

On Saturday, July 20, 2019 at 12:07:15 AM UTC-4, Lucifer wrote:
 
> The complete cable is cheap.
 
> >Thanks
> >J
 
Yes it is, but they all have the same weak spot which admittedly, can be reinforced but I'd prefer to rebuild mine, if possible.
 
And yes, I know the difference between 'lightning' and 'Lightning' and 'usb' and 'USB'....and anybody with 1/2 a brain would understand the meaning and context of the question.
And for the pedantic ppl in the crowd, it should properly be cited as 'Apple Lightning (TM) since it is a registered trademark - not simply 'Lightning'....
 
So that raises a question (since some ppl like to pick 'fly sh*t' out of pepper), if one refers to a knock off Apple Lightning to USB cable, should they properly call it a 'Apple Lightning to USB' cable? a 'Lightning to USB' cable, a 'lightning to USB' cable??? or perhaps a 'bootleg work-a-like Apple Lightning to USB cable'????
 
I'll let the resident neurotic Phil answer this one since he seems to be most annoyed by the grammar/capitalization rules, and syntax of the phrase.... ....sheesh...
Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Jul 20 09:29PM -0700

> > >Is there any place to buy just the plug so I can replace the damaged one?
>.
 
> And yes, I know the difference between 'lightning' and 'Lightning' and 'usb' and 'USB'....and anybody with 1/2 a brain would understand the meaning and context of the question.
 
 
** There was no context, you bulshitting ass.
 

> And for the pedantic ppl in the crowd, it should properly be cited as 'Apple Lightning (TM) since it is a registered trademark - not simply 'Lightning'....
 
** Yawnnnnnn, Lightning does it alone as it indicates a trade name - dickhead.
 

YOU have a horrible aversion to using capitals, like so many of your SMS lingo fingering half wit friends.
 
 
> I'll let the resident neurotic
 
 
** Nothing neurotic about me - asshole.
 

 
.... Phil
Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Jul 20 07:11PM -0700

On Sat, 20 Jul 2019 11:00:19 -0400, "Percival P. Cassidy"
>edge shaped to match the ridges in cans and jars. Haven't seen such a
>thing since.
 
>Perce
 
It's called a "jar scraper tool" or something similar:
<https://www.google.com/search?q=jar+scraper+tool&tbm=isch>
<https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2I-Fo0SF6qU>
<https://www.google.com/search?tbm=isch&q=peanut+butter+jar+scraper>
<https://www.uncommongoods.com/product/peanut-butter-spoon>
 
However, that doesn't mean that manufacturers can't retaliate and make
life difficult. Try scraping all the peanut butter out of these jars:
<https://www.google.com/search?q=peanut+butter+"sun-pat"&tbm=isch>
 
 
--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
Phil Hobbs <pcdhSpamMeSenseless@electrooptical.net>: Jul 20 07:23PM -0400

On 7/19/19 12:32 PM, Ron D. wrote:
> just have a 12 V signal that tells it to transfer. It may or may not
> need power to keep it in one position. I did not look at the
> details.
 
My transfer switch is a pair of 30A breakers for the genny and an
aluminum sheet that slides up and down, so that the main breaker and the
genny breakers can never be turned on at the same time.
 
Cheers
 
Phil Hobbs
 
--
Dr Philip C D Hobbs
Principal Consultant
ElectroOptical Innovations LLC / Hobbs ElectroOptics
Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics
Briarcliff Manor NY 10510
 
http://electrooptical.net
http://hobbs-eo.com
Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Jul 20 06:43PM -0500

On 7/20/19 6:23 PM, Phil Hobbs wrote:
> My transfer switch is a pair of 30A breakers for the genny and an
> aluminum sheet that slides up and down, so that the main breaker
> and the genny breakers can never be turned on at the same time.
 
I have the same set up at the house.
200 Amp pass through panel with 200 amp main breaker. Then the 60
amp breaker for the 15 KW generator.
 
 
 
--
"I am a river to my people."
Jeff-1.0
WA6FWi
http:foxsmercantile.com
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