sci.electronics.repair - 23 new messages in 10 topics - digest

sci.electronics.repair
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Today's topics:

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Zeners in series
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/aac92dec501a08cb?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Tues, Nov 2 2010 12:16 am
From: isw

In article <Xns9E23EA8D25BB7damon161attbicom@127.0.0.1>,
Damon Hill <damon1SIX1@comcast.netnet> wrote:

> who where <noone@home.net> wrote in
> news:6ulmc61qmkng6t480ijqddbqm3i5ct7h0r@4ax.com:
>
> > On Fri, 29 Oct 2010 10:42:09 -0700, David Nebenzahl
> > <nobody@but.us.chickens> wrote:
> >
> >>On 10/28/2010 10:10 PM Steve Kraus spake thus:
> >>
> >>> Just wanted to be sure of this. If you connect two zeners in series
> >>> with the same polarity the effect is the same as having one zener of
> >>> the sum of the two voltages, right?
> >>
> >>Done all the time (2 or more diodes in series). You can even take
> >>intermediate voltages from taps in a series string of zeners.
> >
> > and you can tweak the overall tempco by selection of the elements to
> > combine.
> >
>
> Don't forward-biased silicon diodes have a tempco reverse that of
> a zener diode? If I want a temperature-compensated 40VDC, I could
> combine a 39 volt zener and a diode or two and get very close to
> 40 volts with minimum drift.

There's a natural "turnover point" at something about 5.6 volts for
reverse-biased diode junctions. For breakovers below that voltage, the
Zener effect predominates, and the devices exhibit a negative tempco.
Above it, the avalanche effect becomes predominant, with a positive
tempco. Right around 5.6 volts, the tempco can be very near to zero. You
can make composite devices with very low tempco for voltages well above
5.6 devices by putting one (or more) of each type in series.

So if you wanted, say, a 40volt stable reference, you'd probably get
best performance by putting (say) a 36 volt device and a 4 volt device
in series -- or maybe 37 volts and 3 volts; check the tempco curves. And
be sure to thermally connect the two devices together.

Isaac

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Tues, Nov 2 2010 10:34 am
From: Damon Hill

isw <isw@witzend.com> wrote in
news:isw-F4887F.00161102112010@[216.168.3.50]:

> In article <Xns9E23EA8D25BB7damon161attbicom@127.0.0.1>,
> Damon Hill <damon1SIX1@comcast.netnet> wrote:

>> Don't forward-biased silicon diodes have a tempco reverse that of
>> a zener diode? If I want a temperature-compensated 40VDC, I could
>> combine a 39 volt zener and a diode or two and get very close to
>> 40 volts with minimum drift.
>
> There's a natural "turnover point" at something about 5.6 volts for
> reverse-biased diode junctions. For breakovers below that voltage, the
> Zener effect predominates, and the devices exhibit a negative tempco.
> Above it, the avalanche effect becomes predominant, with a positive
> tempco. Right around 5.6 volts, the tempco can be very near to zero.
> You can make composite devices with very low tempco for voltages well
> above 5.6 devices by putting one (or more) of each type in series.
>
> So if you wanted, say, a 40volt stable reference, you'd probably get
> best performance by putting (say) a 36 volt device and a 4 volt device
> in series -- or maybe 37 volts and 3 volts; check the tempco curves.
> And be sure to thermally connect the two devices together.

Aha! I'd wondered why that trick wasn't used more often in an
integrated package. Thanks for the explanation.

--Damon

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Need to buy a long Phillips no. 1 screwdriver
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/105a0819a4728e8c?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 4 ==
Date: Tues, Nov 2 2010 2:15 am
From: "Geoffrey S. Mendelson"

Jeff Liebermann wrote:
> I use a Dremel tool or file to turn them back into Philips (note
> spelling) heads. Philips #2 is easy. #1 is not so easy.

Nope.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Henry_F._Phillips

Philips with one L is the name of the Dutch Company, Koninklijke
Philips Electronics N.V.

Geoff.

--
Geoffrey S. Mendelson N3OWJ/4X1GM
To help restaurants, as part of the "stimulus package", everyone must order
dessert. As part of the socialized health plan, you are forbidden to eat it. :-)

== 2 of 4 ==
Date: Tues, Nov 2 2010 2:29 am
From: JW

On Mon, 01 Nov 2010 05:43:23 -0400 mm <NOPSAMmm2005@bigfoot.com> wrote in
Message id: <rk2tc6lgrctnd97u4emvbkm9unub4g3glq@4ax.com>:

[...]

>
>**The Sears webpage has a common defect, however, at least I think
>it's a big defect for websites that represent real physical stores
>that are nearby. The website is all about selling and not so much
>about what I can find at the store***. I asked for Phillips
>Screwdriver and got 317 items that are Sears Only and 1124 total. I
>thought I would narrow it down by adding #1 but that more than doubled
>the number of hits, 677 and 3364. I can't search through all this,
>and why should I since I only want to pick out what is at the store.

I think it's because the website search engine ORs the words you put in
the search box. Pretty stupid of them.

>Even when I find something, it can be very hard to figure out if the
>store ever stocks it, let alone if it has one now. For example:
>http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_SPM251527843P?prdNo=8
>
>And Sears isn't the only one like this.
>
>Radio Shack is NOT like this.

Last time I was there, they did. Perhaps they've corrected this.

== 3 of 4 ==
Date: Tues, Nov 2 2010 10:07 am
From: mm

On Mon, 01 Nov 2010 21:58:58 -0700, Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>
wrote:

>On Mon, 01 Nov 2010 12:33:56 -0400, mm <NOPSAMmm2005@bigfoot.com>
>wrote:
>
>>On Sat, 30 Oct 2010 22:21:21 -0700, Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>
>>wrote:
>>
>>>On Sat, 30 Oct 2010 21:37:47 -0500, Jim Yanik <jyanik@abuse.gov>
>>>wrote:
>>>>Skycraft Surplus in Orlando has them (new),I just bought one a few weeks
>>>>ago.
>>>>6 in. OAL. they keep them in a cup at the checkout counter.
>>>>IIRC,either $1 or $1.50 each.
>>>
>>>I think those are the coffee stirrers, not the screwdrivers.
>>>
>>>With a bit of practice, it's possible to use a file to fix a trashed
>>>Phillips screwdriver tip. I'm still using screwdrivers (mostly Sears
>>>Craftsman) that I inherited (or stole) from my father. Most are 30-40
>>>years old and some have been re-filed or re-ground several times.
>>>
>>>I bought a "Husky" brand #2 screwdriver, about 10" long, at Home
>>>Depot. Looks nice, but wouldn't work. It stipped out most screws.
>>>Then, I noticed that the tip came to a point. Grinding down the point
>>>somewhat flat, the screwdriver now works normally. I also inspected
>>>my collection of Phillips screwdrivers and found that most of the
>>>older Xcelite screwdrivers were also excessively pointy. The Sears
>>>Craftsman tips were fine. The problem is not really the screwdriver,
>>>but the badly formed cold headed Phillips screws.
>
>>Good to know. I'll check my other ones out.
>
>I just found another Husky #2 Philips screwdriver. I compared it with
>a similar Craftsman #2 on a typical 6-32 computah screw. The
>Craftsman fits perfectly. The Husky doesn't bottom out and is
>useless. I had originally thought it was too pointy a tip, but even
>after blunting the tip,

It's husky. It just needs to lose a little weight.

> it seems to be simply a rotten grinding job on
>the tapered blades. I'll try to photograph both for a side by side
>comparison later (when I get my microscope camera back).
>
>Here's the culprit:
><http://www.homedepot.com/Tools-Hardware-Hand-Tools-Screwdrivers/h_d1/N-5yc1vZ1xglZas0k/R-100072202/h_d2/ProductDisplay>
>Incidentally, the handle says "Made in USA". The web page says:
>"The precision-formed tip provides engagement with fasteners and
>limits cam-out..."
>Argh.
>
>>I usually turn ruined Phillips head drivers into awls, but there is a
>>limit to how mnay of those i need.
>
>I use a Dremel tool or file to turn them back into Philips (note
>spelling) heads. Philips #2 is easy. #1 is not so easy.

Maybe I'll make a flat blade out of it. I have a flat-blade
screwdriver my grandfather sharpened. He made it *too* sharp, but I
like it.

== 4 of 4 ==
Date: Tues, Nov 2 2010 11:53 pm
From: "Ron D."

#1 7.8" shank: http://www.wihatools.com/100seri/153serie.htm

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Fluke 8842A ROM binary
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/1124840366b02993?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Tues, Nov 2 2010 2:25 am
From: JW

On Mon, 1 Nov 2010 13:48:55 -0400 "tm" <the_obamunist@whitehouse.gov>
wrote in Message id: <iamu8b$c4q$1@speranza.aioe.org>:

>
>"JW" <none@dev.null> wrote in message
>news:iq94a6lf6m2j7ragl7899umkp8m711bs50@4ax.com...
>> Hello,
>>
>> Looking for a Fluke 8842A ROM binary. Chip is a 2732A and is located in
>> U222 near the input filter. It is a socketed part. This one is gone bad,
>> and the A/D watchdog keeps resetting the micro. Tried a 8840A ROM, and
>> while the meter comes up and runs, all the readings are high by order of
>> 10.

Correction: Actually the readings were off by a magnitude of 100.

>>Reading the ROM using a variable voltage supply didn't get the job
>> done, but interesting to note that that has worked at times in the past
>> for me.
>>
>> Thanks for any help/leads.
>>
>> Jay
>
>Hi Jay,
>
>
>Did you ever find a copy of this ROM? If not, I have an 8842A and can copy
>the ROM. I am in need of a copy of the 8840 ROM if you still have it.

Hi Tom,

Yes, I still need it. Check your email, I sent the 8840A binary to your
valid email address. You can send the binary to my Yahoo account.

Thanks, I'll be glad to get this meter off my repair shelf.

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Tues, Nov 2 2010 12:13 pm
From: "tm"

"John Robertson" <spam@flippers.com> wrote in message
news:q1too.1046$u9.530@edtnps82...
> JW wrote:
>> Hello,
>>
>> Looking for a Fluke 8842A ROM binary. Chip is a 2732A and is located in
>> U222 near the input filter. It is a socketed part. This one is gone bad,
>> and the A/D watchdog keeps resetting the micro. Tried a 8840A ROM, and
>> while the meter comes up and runs, all the readings are high by order of
>> 10. Reading the ROM using a variable voltage supply didn't get the job
>> done, but interesting to note that that has worked at times in the past
>> for me.
>>
>> Thanks for any help/leads.
>>
>> Jay
>
> If you get no help here you could try joining the Tech Tools mail list and
> posting there. Email me for the link - a small group of video/pinball
> techies that help each other out with test gear.
>
> I suspect there are Fluke forums out there though that might work better.
>
> I don't have the meter in question.
>
> John :-#)#

Hello John,

I am jumping in here to add to Jay's request. He is working on a 8842A. I
have a 8842A/AC and sent him a copy of the ROM. Unfortunately, it did not
work as mine was a different version. He sent me the code for the 8840A but
it did not work either as the unit I have is the 8840A/AC.

Bottom line is we are both looking for ROM images for different versions.
You mentioned the tech group that may be of help. Could you let Jay or me
know that info? My address is tmiller - at - skylinenet . net.

Best regards,
Tom

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Specialised spring - make or mend?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/381236ff95a702b9?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 6 ==
Date: Tues, Nov 2 2010 9:23 am
From: "N_Cook"

Tascam Porta one mixer and cassette deck. The heavy duty torsion spring that
gives end stop latitude to the sliding part holding the cassette heads
broken so no play function. Somehow one of the long arms has snapped, both
are long. About 2Kg over 25mm of arm brings the arms parallel (using pliers
and weigh scales). I have a glorious collection of salvaged springs from
decks etc but not a near one except one perfect one but wrong handedness,
one arm has to clear some metal work. 5mm outside diameter of the 2.5 turns
of close packed coiled part
Anyone successfully "spliced " similar back? One arm now about 8mm long ,
brass pin barrel or something and some straight spring steel? Would
soldering iron temp affect the spring ? There is space in that area for the
bulking. Or learn to make a spring from scratch?

== 2 of 6 ==
Date: Tues, Nov 2 2010 10:16 am
From: PeterD

On Tue, 2 Nov 2010 16:23:53 -0000, "N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote:

>... Would
>soldering iron temp affect the spring ? There is space in that area for the
>bulking. Or learn to make a spring from scratch?
>

No temp of soldering iron won't affect it, but spring steel is really,
really hard to solder.

I'd make one from scratch, you can buy the material at a *good*
hardware store (spring wire, AKA piano wire) in various dimensions.
Wear safety glasses when working with the stuff, just in case it
breaks while bending.

== 3 of 6 ==
Date: Tues, Nov 2 2010 10:17 am
From: Meat Plow

On Tue, 02 Nov 2010 16:23:53 +0000, N_Cook wrote:

> Tascam Porta one mixer and cassette deck. The heavy duty torsion spring
> that gives end stop latitude to the sliding part holding the cassette
> heads broken so no play function. Somehow one of the long arms has
> snapped, both are long. About 2Kg over 25mm of arm brings the arms
> parallel (using pliers and weigh scales). I have a glorious collection
> of salvaged springs from decks etc but not a near one except one perfect
> one but wrong handedness, one arm has to clear some metal work. 5mm
> outside diameter of the 2.5 turns of close packed coiled part
> Anyone successfully "spliced " similar back? One arm now about 8mm long
> , brass pin barrel or something and some straight spring steel? Would
> soldering iron temp affect the spring ? There is space in that area for
> the bulking. Or learn to make a spring from scratch?

I would never 'rig' something like you suggest. I've done it before and
almost always ended up with a rerun. You can make a spring if you can
figure out how to temper it.

--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse

== 4 of 6 ==
Date: Tues, Nov 2 2010 1:48 pm
From: tnom@mucks.net

On Tue, 2 Nov 2010 16:23:53 -0000, "N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote:

>Tascam Porta one mixer and cassette deck. The heavy duty torsion spring that
>gives end stop latitude to the sliding part holding the cassette heads
>broken so no play function. Somehow one of the long arms has snapped, both
>are long. About 2Kg over 25mm of arm brings the arms parallel (using pliers
>and weigh scales). I have a glorious collection of salvaged springs from
>decks etc but not a near one except one perfect one but wrong handedness,
>one arm has to clear some metal work. 5mm outside diameter of the 2.5 turns
>of close packed coiled part
>Anyone successfully "spliced " similar back? One arm now about 8mm long ,
>brass pin barrel or something and some straight spring steel? Would
>soldering iron temp affect the spring ? There is space in that area for the
>bulking. Or learn to make a spring from scratch?
>
Purchase the proper annealed spring steel from a place like this and
make your own http://www.meadmetals.com/annealedspringsteel.htm

== 5 of 6 ==
Date: Tues, Nov 2 2010 4:36 pm
From: "Mark Zacharias"

"N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote in message
news:iapdu3$vfg$1@news.eternal-september.org...
> Tascam Porta one mixer and cassette deck. The heavy duty torsion spring
> that
> gives end stop latitude to the sliding part holding the cassette heads
> broken so no play function. Somehow one of the long arms has snapped, both
> are long. About 2Kg over 25mm of arm brings the arms parallel (using
> pliers
> and weigh scales). I have a glorious collection of salvaged springs from
> decks etc but not a near one except one perfect one but wrong handedness,
> one arm has to clear some metal work. 5mm outside diameter of the 2.5
> turns
> of close packed coiled part
> Anyone successfully "spliced " similar back? One arm now about 8mm long ,
> brass pin barrel or something and some straight spring steel? Would
> soldering iron temp affect the spring ? There is space in that area for
> the
> bulking. Or learn to make a spring from scratch?
>
>

Tascam is pretty good about parts on older models...

Mark Z.

== 6 of 6 ==
Date: Tues, Nov 2 2010 5:27 pm
From: mm

On Tue, 2 Nov 2010 16:23:53 -0000, "N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote:

> Or learn to make a spring from scratch?

You can buy spring wire at a hobby store. I don't know what they use
it for, maybe to push airplane flaps back.

The small diameters were under a dollar for 18 inches. I don't
remember how thick they get.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: (www.24hours-online.com)paypal wholesale UGG Australia 2010 new shoes
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/0b0113fa707d1741?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Tues, Nov 2 2010 10:50 am
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==============================================================================
TOPIC: In-situ car battery charging
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/2a91e579ca13d204?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 4 ==
Date: Tues, Nov 2 2010 9:00 am
From: pebe

'Meat Plow[_5_ Wrote:
> ;2526406']On Mon, 01 Nov 2010 08:12:53 +0000, N_Cook wrote:
> -
> pebe pebe.7138349@diybanter.com wrote in message
> news:pebe.7138349@diybanter.com...-
>
> I own a 2004 Vauxhall Corsa and want to ensure that I don't get a flat
> battery, again, as a result of short winter trips. So I have purchased
> a float charger.
>
> Is there a simple way of connecting it up each night without lifting
> the bonnet and clipping on to the battery terminals? I had thought of
> going in through the cigarette lighter socket, but the ignition has to
> be switched on before it connects.
>
>
>
>
> --
> pebe-
>
>
> Does anyone produce a bigger version of the "electric toothbrush"
> charger system? - inductively coupled. I've seen a system for charging
> multiple mobile phones etc using this. What is the minimum power
> transfer required and the minimum clearance between a sender on the
> floor and the receiver coil mounted under the car. ? Then no plugging
> in
> required at all-
>
> I hardly think the OP is going to find it tedious to plug in his
> charger.
> One thing he could do is to rewire his cigarette lighter to remain live
>
> with the ignition off. Then all he would need would be a lighter plug on
>
> the charger end. Personally I would just run some 18 ga through a
> grommet
> already established for engine to dash wiring, install a 5 amp fuse at
> the batter end and use a Molex plug or whatever plug comes with the
> float
> charger. They usually have a plug, mine did. And it is suitable for the
>
> interior of the cabin. I let mine lay all summer in between the
> passenger
> seat and center console. When the temperatures dip below 10F I use the
> charger. My vehicle has a self start feature. Just bump the key and
> release. If batter voltage is low because of the ambient temperature
> the start relay tends to release before the engine starts then
> re-engages
> the starter making it grind into the flywheel. Keeping the battery at
> top
> voltage prevents this. What I need is a better brand of battery not
> susceptible to cold or a heater in my garage :)
>
>
>
> --
> Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse

Thanks everyone for your inputs.

Meat Plow,
I initially thought of rewiring the cigar lighter as you suggested, but
could not identify the wiring to it. All the leads come out on the
engine side of the bulkhead through a rubber gaiter. There are dozens of
wires bound up in a tight bunch about 40mm in diameter. They leave the
gaiter inside the fusebox and immediately disappear under the fuses.
There is no way I can identify the one that feeds the cigar lighter.
The user manual gives me the fuse number but that fuses several
circuits. I’ve tried to get the wiring diagram from the internet
but with no success.

Inside the car, the rear of the bulkhead is entirely covered in a unit
of plastic panels that house instruments, heater, radio, glove pockets,
airbags, etc, and which extend from the windscreen down to within
14” of the floor. It’s impossible to remove them to get at
the wiring without know-how or special tools – neither of which I
have.

So I have settled for fitting an alternative connector. I have located
the source of a suitable 10A one and a 7.5A inline fuse. All I have to
do now is find a route for the cable through the bulkhead! Not an easy
job………!

--
pebe

== 2 of 4 ==
Date: Tues, Nov 2 2010 1:26 pm
From: "tm"

"pebe" <pebe.7162649@diybanter.com> wrote in message
news:pebe.7162649@diybanter.com...
>
> 'Meat Plow[_5_ Wrote:
>> ;2526406']On Mon, 01 Nov 2010 08:12:53 +0000, N_Cook wrote:
>> -
>> pebe pebe.7138349@diybanter.com wrote in message
>> news:pebe.7138349@diybanter.com...-
>>
>> I own a 2004 Vauxhall Corsa and want to ensure that I don't get a flat
>> battery, again, as a result of short winter trips. So I have purchased
>> a float charger.
>>
>> Is there a simple way of connecting it up each night without lifting
>> the bonnet and clipping on to the battery terminals? I had thought of
>> going in through the cigarette lighter socket, but the ignition has to
>> be switched on before it connects.
>>
snip
>
> So I have settled for fitting an alternative connector. I have located
> the source of a suitable 10A one and a 7.5A inline fuse. All I have to
> do now is find a route for the cable through the bulkhead! Not an easy
> job………!
>

Can you find a hot fuse in the fuse panel with the ignition off?

== 3 of 4 ==
Date: Tues, Nov 2 2010 4:15 pm
From: "Dave Plowman (News)"

In article <pebe.7138349@diybanter.com>,
pebe <pebe.7138349@diybanter.com> wrote:
> I own a 2004 Vauxhall Corsa and want to ensure that I don't get a flat
> battery, again, as a result of short winter trips. So I have purchased a
> float charger.

> Is there a simple way of connecting it up each night without lifting the
> bonnet and clipping on to the battery terminals? I had thought of going
> in through the cigarette lighter socket, but the ignition has to be
> switched on before it connects.

I sort of did it the other way round - fitted the battery charger in the
car, and a waterproof mains inlet under the rear bumper. The charger
itself is alongside the spare wheel under the boot floor so doesn't get in
the way.

--
*Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a banana.*

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

== 4 of 4 ==
Date: Tues, Nov 2 2010 4:57 pm
From: mm

On Sun, 31 Oct 2010 14:34:55 +0000, pebe <pebe.7138349@diybanter.com>
wrote:

>
>I own a 2004 Vauxhall Corsa and want to ensure that I don't get a flat
>battery, again, as a result of short winter trips. So I have purchased a
>float charger.
>
>Is there a simple way of connecting it up each night without lifting the
>bonnet and clipping on to the battery terminals?

Yes there is.

> I had thought of going
>in through the cigarette lighter socket, but the ignition has to be
>switched on before it connects.

I used to have a 6-volt car, and it was hard to start in the Chicago
winter, so I put a one-amp battery charger inside the engine
compartment, with its 12 volt cord still wrapped up like new and the
alligator clips on the battery posts, and I put the AC cord through
the grill.

Whenever I got home, I plugged it in to an extension cord that I ran
from the kitchen and hung on a pole. I did that all winter, rain and
shine, never took the extension cord inside. Even when it snowed and
the middle of the wire was underneath the snow, everything was fine.
Never blew a fuse. (I didn't handle the plug or outlet directly when
it was wet. I either had on gloves or I pulled it apart by the
wires.)

I wan't sure the 6-volt setting was really enough to keep it charged,
so I set it on the 12-volt setting, and the circuit breaker would trip
ever 90 seconds and reset 20 seconds after that. And that caused no
problem either about 720 cycles a day for 100 days or more, 72000
cycles, and still working fine when spring came.

The circuit breaker was a little clear glass thing with a point with a
little knob on the end, that looks something like a neon bulb or one
of the small xmas tree lights.

And the car started all winter too, except new years eve, very very
cold, when the tow truck couldn't start it either. I guess I hitched
a ride that night.

BTW, this was 1967 to '68 and the car was a '50 Olds V8 303ci engine.
I sold the car but I still have the charger and, after replacing the
diodes in 1980, it still works fine. The charger belonged to my
cousin (as did the car) and was about 10 years old in 1968, so it's
about 52 years old, but looks quite modern and in v. good condition.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: strikes me
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/413349f2f794bd21?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Tues, Nov 2 2010 1:38 pm
From: Anne Onime

They went out stealthily and guiltily, as if they had committed a misdemeanour, closing the door without noise, and telling the widow, who had remained in the entry, to go home and await them; that they would call in any casual passers as witnesses, if necessary. When in the street they turned into an unfrequented side alley where they walked up and down as they had done long ago in the market-house at Melchester.
"Now, darling, what shall we do? We are making a mess of it, it strikes me. Still, anything that pleases you will please me."
"But Jude, dearest, I am worrying you! You wanted it to be there, didn't you?"

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