Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 1 update in 1 topic

Tim R <timothy42b@aol.com>: Jan 30 02:03PM -0800

A 30 year old car that won't run hot sounds like fuel to me rather than spark.
 
You can check spark easily so I guess you might as well, but not at the distributor. check it at the plug, or even at the spark plug wire boot.
 
Remember anything you take apart in a car that old may break either uninstalling or reinstalling. (speaking from experience)
 
You did check the fuel line for a hot spot that might vapor lock, right?
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 4 updates in 3 topics

"ohg...@gmail.com" <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Jan 29 03:23PM -0800

On Thursday, January 28, 2021 at 9:25:52 PM UTC-5, Peter Easthope wrote:
> created in a module inside the cap. No external coil as in the old
> style ignition.
 
> Can the coin test be done with this type of disributor?
 
Coin? No, but you can still check spark much easier than that. But...
 
I had friend's Honda do the same thing yours is doing, and it was a bad fuel pump that stiffened up as it ran. Put a gauge on the Schrader valve (fuel rail) and see if the pressure holds.
 
If the fuel pressure is good and you want to check ignition, pull a spark plug when the engine is cold (leaving it connected to the ignition wire) and ground the threaded part. Have someone crank it over and watch the spark. Repeat again once the car is hot and see if the spark stays a nice fat blue spark or if it's now a weak yellow spark or no spark. If the spark is strong when the car is hot, it's not ignition.
 
If it's ignition, you can buy a rebuilt distributor that includes the coil, pickups, and electronics, any of which can cause ignition problems. A distributor assy will cover all bases.
bruce bowser <bruce2bowser@gmail.com>: Jan 29 01:42PM -0800

Experimental study of urine powered internal combustion engine
 
International Journal of Applied Engineering Research ISSN 0973-4562
Volume 14, Number 14, 2019
-- https://www.ripublication.com/ijaerspl2019/ijaerv14n14spl_20.pdf
bruce bowser <bruce2bowser@gmail.com>: Jan 29 01:44PM -0800

Woman urinates alcohol without drinking due to yeast in her bladder
New Scientist - Feb 14, 2020
-- https://www.newscientist.com/article/2235081-woman-urinates-alcohol-without-drinking-due-to-yeast-in-her-bladder/#:~:text=Woman%20urinates%20alcohol%20without%20drinking%20due%20to%20yeast%20in%20her%20bladder,-Health%2024%20February&text=A%20woman%20who%20urinates%20alcohol,in%20urine%20to%20produce%20alcohol.
Cydrome Leader <presence@MUNGEpanix.com>: Jan 29 07:41PM

> I'm not clear, can I combine all the orange wires from the supply and
> all the orange wires from the connector and solder together? Thanks in
> advance.
 
You could do this, but you'll quite a bit of flexibility if you combine
colors into big fat connections covered in heatshrink or tape. Your
connector may not fit in the case as the cables and patches are too stiff
or in the wrong place etc.
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 6 updates in 2 topics

John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Jan 28 10:02AM -0800

On 2021/01/27 5:35 p.m., Allodoxaphobia wrote:
>>>>> soldering.  For example, in case I'm not clear, can I combine all the
>>>>> orange wires from the supply and all the orange wires from the
>>>>> connector and solder together?  Thanks in advance.
...
 
> The OP should stagger the cuts for each set of common wires.
> To attempt them side-by-side would put all the "blobs" side-by-side.
 
Excellent point!
 
> the cut cable. He somehow succeded, but the plane's crew chief could not
> close the cover over the equipment bay -- due to the now some-6" thick bable.
 
> (Anybody remember dzus fasteners?)
 
I always wondered what they were called - we use them in old jukeboxes -
thanks!
 
https://www.wagaero.com/hardware/fasteners/dzus-fasteners/ajw5-50-fastener.html
 
 
> Jonesy
 
Muchos gracias! (this is your second official language, eh?)
 
John :-#)#
Allodoxaphobia <trepidation@example.net>: Jan 28 10:04PM

On Thu, 28 Jan 2021 10:02:06 -0800, John Robertson wrote:
 
> Muchos gracias! (this is your second official language, eh?)
 
errr, uuuuh, no, My second official language is IBM Mainframe Assembler.
After that comes German, then PHP. :-)
 
Jonesy
Tim R <timothy42b@aol.com>: Jan 29 05:57AM -0800

On Wednesday, January 27, 2021 at 8:35:19 PM UTC-5, Allodoxaphobia wrote:
> "stub" wires into the new plug, he proceeded to splice it all back onto
> the cut cable. He somehow succeded, but the plane's crew chief could not
> close the cover over the equipment bay -- due to the now some-6" thick bable.
 
You could argue he was given insufficiently clear instructions on his task. Though a real tech should have figured it out.
 
In a factory where I worked there was an OSHA potential violation identified, the 6 mill roll stands did not have individual identification placards.
 
I wrote an order to the most recent hire: use the engraver and make 6 placards labeled Mill Roll Stand #1 - #6.
 
I knew what I wanted but he didn't. Next time I checked all 6 mill roll stands had identical labels, Mill Roll Stand #1 - #6.
 
I will admit that I have also cut a cable too close to a connection and quickly regretted it.
"Peter W." <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Jan 29 06:28AM -0800

"But you know what I mean."
 
No, I know what you said (wrote). I am still trying to discern what you mean.
 
"Can I ......?"
 
Answer A: I should certainly hope so!
Answer B: I do not know. Can you?
 
Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
Peter Easthope <petereasthope@gmail.com>: Jan 28 06:25PM -0800

Hi,
 
A 1990 Honda Civic Si, 1.6 liter here.
 
The engine starts fairly easily. It begins to falter as it warms.
After driving for 10-15 minutes it's barely running. If the engine is
shut off or stalls, it won't restart until cooled to ambient.
 
With an old mechanical distributor I would remove the cap with high
voltage wires all connected. Rotate the crank shaft until points are
closed. With the inside of the cap facing up, place a coin between
the center contact and a spark plug contact, not touching both.
Switch on the ignition. (Not the starter of course.) Then lift the
points open with finger nail or screw driver tip. The spark should be
visible jumping via the coin. The spark at each plug is easily
checked by shifting the coin.
 
In the Honda distributor, no points are visible and high voltage is
created in a module inside the cap. No external coil as in the old
style ignition.
 
Can the coin test be done with this type of disributor?
 
Thanks, ... Peter E., Pender Island, BC
"Peter W." <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Jan 29 04:15AM -0800

Whether there is a visible coil or not, there is a coil, AKA "Ignition Control Module". A thermal fault in these devices is not uncommon, and the typical failure-mode (after 30 years). About a US$55 part, or so. That being written, do you have a spark when the system is hot? You can verify that rather easily by pulling any given sparkplug wire (at the plug), installing a spare plug, grounding said plug and checking for a spark by running the starter for a few seconds. Or, if you have an old-fashioned induction timing strobe, seeing if it will fire (with the wires connected).
 
No spark, suspect the ignition module.
Good Spark, suspect the fuel filter, fuel pump or fuel system. Old fuel filters will often flow fine until the dirt particles pull back into the elements under suction. So one attributes the failure to ignition... A filter is about a US$35 ordeal.
 
Be systematic as repair-by-substitution is expensive.
 
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/bwd-ignition-control-module-cbe550p/3038203-P?searchTerm=ignition%20control%20module
 
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/beck-arnley-fuel-filter-043-0928/18033674-P?searchTerm=fuel%20filter
 
Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 2 updates in 1 topic

John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Jan 27 02:30PM -0800

On 2021/01/26 10:35 p.m., Adrian Caspersz wrote:
 
> I'd rewire each separately using similar wire to the original. Take ya
> time and use heat shrink, leaded solder and a good soldering iron. It's
> not a difficult job to be considering short cuts.
 
I interpreted the OP as saying he would join all the wires of the same
colour in a blob and glom the other wires to the same blob. Ugly, but it
would work. Not professional at all. However folks do like short cuts
and that was what I offered.
I would be too embarrassed to actually do that blob thingy though...
 
John ;-#)#
--
(Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup)
John's Jukes Ltd.
MOVED to #7 - 3979 Marine Way, Burnaby, BC, Canada V5J 5E3
(604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
www.flippers.com
"Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."
Allodoxaphobia <trepidation@example.net>: Jan 28 01:35AM

On Wed, 27 Jan 2021 14:30:21 -0800, John Robertson wrote:
> would work. Not professional at all. However folks do like short cuts
> and that was what I offered.
> I would be too embarrassed to actually do that blob thingy though...
 
The OP should stagger the cuts for each set of common wires.
To attempt them side-by-side would put all the "blobs" side-by-side.
 
I am reminded of the idiot in the UASF that was told to replace a 36
conductor plug in a F-102's radar equipment bay. He cut the cable straight
across about 2" from the old connector. Then, after soldering new
"stub" wires into the new plug, he proceeded to splice it all back onto
the cut cable. He somehow succeded, but the plane's crew chief could not
close the cover over the equipment bay -- due to the now some-6" thick bable.
 
(Anybody remember dzus fasteners?)
 
Jonesy
--
Marvin L Jones | Marvin | W3DHJ.net | linux
38.238N 104.547W | @ jonz.net | Jonesy | FreeBSD
* Killfiling google & XXXXbanter.com: jonz.net/ng.htm
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 3 updates in 1 topic

Jon I <jonkk987@aol.com>: Jan 26 06:23PM -0500

I accidentally cut off the 24 pin ATX power supply connector because I
thought I was going to use the power supply for another purpose, but
that turned out not to be the case. I want to reinstall back into the
desktop, but I have a question: since all the red, yellow, orange, and
black wires were going to be combined (for greater current handling in
non-PC use), I am wondering if I could just combine the same color
cutoff wires from the connector with the ones coming from the power
supply? Would sure save a lot of extra soldering. For example, in case
I'm not clear, can I combine all the orange wires from the supply and
all the orange wires from the connector and solder together? Thanks in
advance.
John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Jan 26 05:37PM -0800

On 2021/01/26 3:23 p.m., Jon I wrote:
> I'm not clear, can I combine all the orange wires from the supply and
> all the orange wires from the connector and solder together?  Thanks in
> advance.
 
Yes.
 
I'd wire each wire separately but I'm anal. However you could blob all
the same colours together and then insulate carefully.
 
John :-#)#
 
--
(Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup)
John's Jukes Ltd.
MOVED to #7 - 3979 Marine Way, Burnaby, BC, Canada V5J 5E3
(604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
www.flippers.com
"Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."
Adrian Caspersz <email@here.invalid>: Jan 27 06:35AM

On 27/01/2021 01:37, John Robertson wrote:
 
> Yes.
 
> I'd wire each wire separately but I'm anal. However you could blob all
> the same colours together and then insulate carefully.
 
In commoning up the individual wires, ye might need thicker cables to
handle the current.
 
I'd rewire each separately using similar wire to the original. Take ya
time and use heat shrink, leaded solder and a good soldering iron. It's
not a difficult job to be considering short cuts.
 
--
Adrian C
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 2 updates in 1 topic

Ben Kristofic <ben.kristofic@gmail.com>: Jan 24 02:49PM -0800

👀 I just inherited one as well, if that manual is still floating around!
 
"Peter W." <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Jan 25 04:08AM -0800

https://worldradiohistory.com/hd2/IDX-Consumer/Archive-Radio-Electronics-IDX/IDX/60s/1963/Radio-Electronics-1963-01-OCR-Page-0085.pdf \
 
It uses 2 x 12AX7A/ECC83 tubes and 3 x 6V6GTA
 
Originally, the company was in Brooklyn, New York, selling mostly kits.
 
Re-Cap it before applying power! All of them!
 
Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 1 update in 1 topic

Mike Garcia <mike@mgarcia.nospam>: Jan 22 07:14AM

On Tue, 12 Jan 2021 20:48:30 +0000, Rayner Lucas wrote:
 
> Hi all. This post is a review of the cheap "green stick" CRT degaussing
 
Nice post!
Good to know!
 
 
--
 
Mike Garcia
http://mgarcia.org
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 4 updates in 2 topics

Cursitor Doom <cd@noreply.com>: Jan 19 10:11PM

On Tue, 19 Jan 2021 13:32:52 -0800 (PST), Phil Allison
 
>I hope he is only a teenager.
>If an adult - he has zero chance of ever recovering and becoming a functioning human being.
 
>...... Phil
 
I'm x-posting this to sed so the regulars there can see don't confine
your obnoxiousness to that forum alone.
The question I posted originally wasn't addressed to you. I always
begin my posts to "Gentlemen" in the hope arsewipes like you will read
no further and go straight to the next message. Didn't work this time
did it? Why you saw fit to overlook that AND to stick your unwanted
nose into a subject you know *nothing* about. You think aligning the
IF stages of some old radio makes you and expert on RF? You're a
no-mark, Allison. You don't design shit. You fix up stuff; that's all.
And audio stuff at that - NOT RF. And no one needs a PhD in
transmission line theory just to twiddle some pots in a chain of IF
cans. A trained chimpanzee could do it.
So you were strutting your stuff on a electronic design forum when you
know nothing about design. You ignored the fact I'd addressed that
post to *gentlemen* and you chipped in your 2c on a subject you know
FUCK ALL about AND were foul-mouthed and abusive into the bargain. All
probably because you were pissed as usual. You have nothing worthwhile
to contribute so just fuck off back to the gutter where you belong,
you hopeless drunken PoS.
Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Jan 19 09:21PM -0800

Accursed Doperote:
> probably because you were pissed as usual. You have nothing worthwhile
> to contribute so just fuck off back to the gutter where you belong,
> you hopeless drunken PoS.
 
**Wow !!!
 
That is *quite* a "dummy spit " ..........
 
Bet the horroble puke punched him mom and chucked his toys about when he was 4 or 5 years old.
 
And he's still doing it !!!!!!!!!!!!.
 
 
...... Phil
"Peter W." <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Jan 20 03:45AM -0800

Three Things:
 
1. Tourette's Syndrome can be partially controlled with strong drugs. But the individual most take those drugs on schedule. This individual does not.
2. This particular individual is nearing its end-of-life with nothing to show for it, alone, and nothing to pass on. "Bitter" about covers it.
3. And, it never gives a good result to argue with the Village Idiot in any case, as said idiot is immune to reason and unencumbered by the thought process.
 
Have a nice day.
 
Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
Rayner Lucas <usenet202101@magic-cookie.co.ukNOSPAMPLEASE>: Jan 20 09:04AM

In article <a5e3b4a1-a1ca-4343-9d1b-d7b44b6490b3n@googlegroups.com>,
george.alibinisis@gmail.com says...
> private message that his monitor is with an expert at the moment.
 
> it definetely looks like some harmonic but my knowledge in CRTs is
> very little at the moment - learning every day.
 
Okay, if there are 7-8 lines it's not mains frequency. I'd say it's
still worth checking the PSU output voltages for stability, though - it
will help to know whether you can rule that section out or not.
 
The number of horizontal lines suggests the unwanted oscillation has a
350 - 400Hz component, which might be a helpful clue.
 
If investigating the PSU doesn't reveal anything, here's how I'd look at
it. You've got a scope and a schematic annotated with expected voltages
and waveforms. The problem shows up on the display, therefore it must be
present among the signals and voltages that go to the CRT and deflection
yoke. If you can figure out which one(s), you can then trace it back to
the origin from there.
 
It seems highly unlikely to be anything to do with the EHT or the focus
grid voltage, which is good because those are the ones I'd least like to
be messing with.
 
It doesn't look much like a deflection problem either, as from the
pictures on the edaboard thread I can't see any actual distortion to the
image on screen.
 
As far as I can see, that mostly just leaves the:
 
+12V line
+125V line
-20V line
RGB signal lines
 
going to the CRT neck board as the likely candidates.
 
The safety guidelines at
https://www.repairfaq.org/sam/monfaq.htm#montrbs include some advice for
staying safe when investigating a running monitor; I particularly
recommend the bit about only ever connecting/disconnecting test leads
when the monitor is unpowered and unplugged.
 
Let us know if you manage to narrow it down.
 
Rayner
 
--
Big-8 Management Board: https://www.big-8.org
Homepage: http://magic-cookie.co.uk
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 7 updates in 2 topics

Mike Coon <gravity@mjcoon.plus.com>: Jan 18 10:25PM

In article <DKydnb5sGf25T5n9nZ2dnUU7-IWdnZ2d@giganews.com>,
spam@flippers.com says...
> > On Sunday, January 17, 2021 at 12:34:53 AM UTC-5, palli...@gmail.com wrote:
> >> whit3rd wrote:
> > I can envision some Einstein attaching a magnet to a drill with
cellophane tape, and watching in stunned horror as the magnet flies off
and smashes the glass top coffee table..
 
> Or explodes the picture tube!
 
> John :-#(#
 
I used to walk to school (in the 1950s) beside a canal in Bristol (UK).
There was a girder footbridge over this canal, and small kids had
somehow acquired duff CRTs and would carry them half across this bridge
in order to watch them smash into the water. Happy to say I never
actually saw a child burst one on the girders...
Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Jan 18 04:39PM -0800

Mike Coon wrote:
=============
 
 
-------------------------------
 
** One saw a pic of a B&W picture tube that had imploded.
The electron gun had been propelled though the screen and imbeded itself in the back of a lounge chair.
 
There is almost 20,000lbs of pressure on the out side of a 23inch one..
 
...... Phil
George Alibinisis <george.alibinisis@gmail.com>: Jan 18 10:24AM -0800

On Monday, January 18, 2021 at 4:48:11 PM UTC+2, Peter W. wrote:
> You do need to know that the position of Village Idiot is occupied by an Australian at this time. Much as you might wish to compete, your status will remain "incurably stupid", only. You may re-apply should the incumbent leave.
 
Get a life Peter instead of running stupidity contests in Google groups especially when you are the undisputed heavy weight champion. No way for the rest of us to win.
"Peter W." <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Jan 18 11:03AM -0800

> On Monday, January 18, 2021 at 4:48:11 PM UTC+2, Peter W. wrote:
> > You do need to know that the position of Village Idiot is occupied by an Australian at this time. Much as you might wish to compete, your status will remain "incurably stupid", only. You may re-apply should the incumbent leave.
> Get a life Peter instead of running stupidity contests in Google groups especially when you are the undisputed heavy weight champion. No way for the rest of us to win.
George:
 
Then you are in full competition with Phil for the position? He may be relieved to know that.
George Alibinisis <george.alibinisis@gmail.com>: Jan 18 12:03PM -0800

On Monday, January 18, 2021 at 9:04:00 PM UTC+2, Peter W. wrote:
> > Get a life Peter instead of running stupidity contests in Google groups especially when you are the undisputed heavy weight champion. No way for the rest of us to win.
> George:
 
> Then you are in full competition with Phil for the position? He may be relieved to know that.
 
you re not funny dude
Rayner Lucas <usenet202101@magic-cookie.co.ukNOSPAMPLEASE>: Jan 18 11:52PM

In article <0e0fec2f-f1b4-4459-9168-b7824e991a09n@googlegroups.com>,
george.alibinisis@gmail.com says...
 
> Now I have posted lots of pics and info in this thread. I have already
> recapped the monitor and done a lot of measurements.
 
> https://www.edaboard.com/threads/commodore-1084s-monitor-with-faint-
vertical-lines.396322/
 
> I thought I'd also ask here as Alex faced the exact same problem.
 
It's odd to see such an old thread get resurrected, but it is still a
relevant post even if the original participants are no longer reading,
so in this case I don't think it's anything to get worked up about.
 
I see from that edaboard thread that you've already tried the most
likely solutions :-(
 
The slowly drifting *horizontal* lines you mention sound like hum bars,
i.e. excessive voltage ripple from the power supply making its way onto
the display. If this is the case you'd see two bars on screen at once
(100Hz ripple from a full-wave rectifier, on a screen with 50Hz vertical
refresh) Again, by far the most common cause is a bad filter capacitor
in the low-voltage power supply, but there can be other components at
fault. See https://www.repairfaq.org/sam/monfaq.htm#monrwphb
 
If you have access to an oscilloscope, you might want to check the
outputs of the power supply for unusually high ripple. In particular,
the output of the 12V DC regulator (IC403) ought to look nice and
stable, as the regulator should smooth out whatever makes it past the
filter capacitor.
 
Obligatory safety note: be very careful and don't work alone, these
things have some nasty voltages inside them (including that 125V DC
power supply output). I highly recommend the safety guidelines at
https://www.repairfaq.org/sam/monfaq.htm#montrbs
 
Rayner
 
--
Big-8 Management Board: https://www.big-8.org
Homepage: http://magic-cookie.co.uk
George Alibinisis <george.alibinisis@gmail.com>: Jan 18 04:15PM -0800

On Tuesday, January 19, 2021 at 1:52:36 AM UTC+2, Rayner Lucas wrote:
 
> --
> Big-8 Management Board: https://www.big-8.org
> Homepage: http://magic-cookie.co.uk
 
thanks for all your efforts Rayner. I am using a 1:1 isolation transformer when I power up the monitor and I do have an oscope. Ill test the PSU although the lines are many more than two.. maybe 7-8 drifting to the bottom of the screen. Thing is that there are brand new caps everywhere.
 
I read around the internet and there was this thread and just one more guy with same monitor, same issue. He told me on eab boards via private message that his monitor is with an expert at the moment.
 
it definetely looks like some harmonic but my knowledge in CRTs is very little at the moment - learning every day.
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 8 updates in 2 topics

George Alibinisis <george.alibinisis@gmail.com>: Jan 17 01:01PM -0800

On Monday, March 17, 2003 at 12:16:39 AM UTC+2, A. W. Jackson wrote:
> miracle a schematic) for a "1084" matching this particular
> description?
> --Alex W. Jackson--
 
Hi Alex! Did you ever solve this? Having exactly the same issue with exactly the same monitor. Thank you in advance!
Google Groups Idiots Strike Again <idiots@google.invalid>: Jan 18 12:22AM

>> --Alex W. Jackson--
 
> Hi Alex! Did you ever solve this? Having exactly the same issue
> with exactly the same monitor. Thank you in advance!
 
Did you honestly think that replying to an 18 year old posting was likely
to get you anything more than insults?
 
Idiot.
Rayner Lucas <usenet202101@magic-cookie.co.ukNOSPAMPLEASE>: Jan 18 12:55AM

In article <e3a257de-17d5-4549-b50d-6400a6ee4c4bn@googlegroups.com>,
george.alibinisis@gmail.com says...
> > responsible for these bars, and is it repairable?
 
> Hi Alex! Did you ever solve this? Having exactly the same issue with
> exactly the same monitor. Thank you in advance!
 
It's been over 17 years since the original message was posted, so it's
unlikely that anyone remembers the result even if it did get fixed.
 
What have you tried so far to fix or narrow down the problem, if
anything?
 
It sounds like some kind of ghosting or ringing; is there a picture you
could upload anywhere (Imgur or similar) so we can see what it looks
like?
 
I'd start by swapping the video cable and also trying a different video
source, just to make sure it really is the monitor at fault. Then I'd
replace all electrolytic capacitors on general principle. These monitors
are decades old and there are probably multiple caps that have gone out
of spec by now, so just doing the whole lot can save multiple rounds of
troubleshooting.
 
There's a service manual for this monitor available at
http://www.zimmers.net/anonftp/pub/cbm/schematics/monitors/. The scan
quality is poor, but it's certainly better than nothing.
 
Rayner
 
--
Big-8 Management Board: https://www.big-8.org
Homepage: http://magic-cookie.co.uk
George Alibinisis <george.alibinisis@gmail.com>: Jan 18 05:12AM -0800

On Monday, January 18, 2021 at 2:55:52 AM UTC+2, Rayner Lucas wrote:
 
> --
> Big-8 Management Board: https://www.big-8.org
> Homepage: http://magic-cookie.co.uk
 
Hi Rayner,
 
Firstly just wanna say to the Google Groups Einstein that the 18 year period doesn't matter as long as the problem was solved and the guy is still around on this earth. The Commode/Amiga retro-scene is very much alive.
 
Now I have posted lots of pics and info in this thread. I have already recapped the monitor and done a lot of measurements.
 
https://www.edaboard.com/threads/commodore-1084s-monitor-with-faint-vertical-lines.396322/
 
I thought I'd also ask here as Alex faced the exact same problem.
 
Thanks for your time Rayner.
"Peter W." <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Jan 18 06:48AM -0800

You do need to know that the position of Village Idiot is occupied by an Australian at this time. Much as you might wish to compete, your status will remain "incurably stupid", only. You may re-apply should the incumbent leave.
Rob <nomail@example.com>: Jan 17 06:26PM

> wands, as I haven't found much discussion of them and some other
> repairers of vintage monitors may find it useful.
 
> CRT degaussing tools seem to be hard to find these days.
 
Small wonder, as hardly anyone uses a CRT these days...
Normally when a CRT TV needs some form of repair, it will join its
fellows in the recycling bin.
"ohg...@gmail.com" <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Jan 17 02:02PM -0800

> > short tip will do a degaussing task adequately.
 
> ** I have read that a magnet attached to the chuck of a power drill, running at high speed, can also be used to demag a TV tube.
 
> Never tried it - seems a bit dodgy.
 
I can envision some Einstein attaching a magnet to a drill with cellophane tape, and watching in stunned horror as the magnet flies off and smashes the glass top coffee table..
John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Jan 17 04:11PM -0800

>>> short tip will do a degaussing task adequately.
 
>> ** I have read that a magnet attached to the chuck of a power drill, running at high speed, can also be used to demag a TV tube.
 
>> Never tried it - seems a bit dodgy.
 
You think? Seems an understatement for you, Phil...
 
 
> I can envision some Einstein attaching a magnet to a drill with cellophane tape, and watching in stunned horror as the magnet flies off and smashes the glass top coffee table..
 
Or explodes the picture tube!
 
John :-#(#
 
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 1 update in 1 topic

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Jan 16 09:34PM -0800

whit3rd wrote:
 
==============
 
> Some soldering guns use a hairpin winding on a toroid core; those do NOT give
> external field, they're self-shieding, but a 5" diameter simple wire loop connected instead of the
> short tip will do a degaussing task adequately.
 
** I have read that a magnet attached to the chuck of a power drill, running at high speed, can also be used to demag a TV tube.
 
Never tried it - seems a bit dodgy.
 
 
 
...... Phil
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 1 update in 1 topic

whit3rd <whit3rd@gmail.com>: Jan 14 09:10PM -0800

On Tuesday, January 12, 2021 at 10:47:08 PM UTC-8, John Robertson wrote:
> >>> degaussing coils in the shop...
 
> You need something that puts out a large AC field - like the unshielded
> transformer used in soldering guns.
 
Some soldering guns use a hairpin winding on a toroid core; those do NOT give
external field, they're self-shieding, but a 5" diameter simple wire loop connected instead of the
short tip will do a degaussing task adequately.
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 15 updates in 2 topics

Cursitor Doom <cd@noreply.com>: Jan 10 06:32PM

On Sun, 10 Jan 2021 17:35:35 +0000, Andy Burns <usenet@andyburns.uk>
wrote:
 
 
>also you may have linked the device to an online account via
 
><http://www.wifiradio-frontier.com>
 
>Might your account have been locked-out?
 
I don't have any such account! Certainly nothing that *I* have created
anyway. Unless this is something Roberts do without telling you.
Andy Burns <usenet@andyburns.uk>: Jan 10 03:43PM

Cursitor Doom wrote:
 
 
 
>> Does it manage to remember your WiFi credentials every time you turn it
>> on? Try a factory reset if it has one buried in the menus.
 
> Yes, it remembers the password and accesses the router no problem.
 
So it has *some* functioning non-volatile storage then, wonder if it
constantly writes your favourites to flash and has worn it out?
Bertrand Sindri <bertrand.sindri@yahoo.com>: Jan 10 04:55PM

>>three quarters you have not yet disassembled?
 
> Yeah, I know, I know. I'm not a technician so I don't think like a
> technician; sorry about that.
 
That is just a copout.
 
Realizing that you've not seen 100% of the boards in the housing is not
"thinking like a technician". One does not have to "think like a
technician" to realize that if you have not found what you are
searching for, but have only searched one quarter of the total, that
just maybe the item you seek is in the remaining three quarters.
 
Although your other posts have opened the very good possibility that
the device has zero local storage beyond WiFi credentials.
Cursitor Doom <cd@noreply.com>: Jan 10 04:45PM

On Sun, 10 Jan 2021 16:34:13 +0000 (UTC), Bertrand Sindri
>>>> before developing dementia, so I think it's fair to assume there's
>>>> an internal power supply of some sort.
 
>Why is this "safe to assume"?
 
Fair point. Assumptions are the mother of all fuckups - as I've said
here many times myself!
>stored in a tiny amount of flash on the main chipset to provide the
>bootstrap necessary to find the rest of the settings on some cloud
>server.
 
You see this is all like rocket science to me. Never in a million
years would that have occurred to me. If my favourites are stored in
the cloud rather than locally then that's a major breach of trust
Roberts has committed. And confidentiality!
 
>wage phone worker having a table of "customer quoted symptoms" vs.
>"quoted repair cost" and the minimum wage worker just reading you off
>the quote for the item that sounded most close to your description?
 
Look, I'm an old dude. I have no idea what goes on in these places
nowadays. I can only go by my increasingly outdated experience which
is set firmly in the past (25+ years minimum).
 
>> are showing as anything between 1000uF and 1200uF on my Peak ESR70
>> meter. I've never known caps so far out of tolerance before.
 
>In circuit or out of circuit measurement?
 
In circuit. And they're not in parallel.
Adrian Caspersz <email@here.invalid>: Jan 10 01:51PM

On 10/01/2021 13:33, KenW wrote:
>> Maybe it doesn't have internal power !!??
 
>> KenW
 
> And preprogrammed freqs. are in a rom.
 
There are no "freqs" on the 105.
There is no traditional AM/FM/digital radio tuner in the thing.
 
Internet only.
 
Settings beyond WiFi could well be in the cloud.
 
--
Adrian C
Andy Burns <usenet@andyburns.uk>: Jan 10 05:35PM

Bertrand Sindri wrote:
 
> maybe the price quote you got from their phone support was really
> the cost for: "replace the worn out flash chip".
 
You can nuke its settings
 
press menu, main menu, system settings, factory reset, yes
 
also you may have linked the device to an online account via
 
<http://www.wifiradio-frontier.com>
 
Might your account have been locked-out?
Adrian Caspersz <email@here.invalid>: Jan 10 09:55PM

On 10/01/2021 20:36, Bertrand Sindri wrote:
> also contains an embedded CPU as well).
 
> [1] yes, this is not secure, because if you learn someone's radio's MAC
> address, you could read/write their settings.
 
Ok, I had a look at the manual. Like my earlier model, it's a
ridiculously complicated book more suited to a computer product than an
entertainment gadget.
 
http://www.aeldownloads.com/robertsradio/userguides/STREAM105%20ISSUE.1.pdf
 
There is also a troubleshooting guide
 
http://www.aeldownloads.com/robertsradio/TSguides/STREAM%20105%20TS.ISSUE.1.pdf.
 
 
In the UK, Roberts was a British brand of radio manaufacturer that
catered mostly to the middle class purchaser, and I can hardly see some
of those that have remaining memories of old, having some ability left
to waddle through that nonsense.
 
However, I had a waddle. Page 64 of the wordy user manual.
 
"You should not attempt to update your radio unless it is recommended to
you by Roberts Customer
Services. Updating the software may remove all network settings, radio
station presets and alarm settings
from your radio"
 
So, station presets _are_ stored in flash memory on the device. Have
they been lost in a recent software update?
 
Suggest, (if it still works) registering an account (Page 30) and
storing favourites there.
 
Mr Doom. You won't find a battery or a cap. Give up.
 
--
Adrian C
Cursitor Doom <cd@noreply.com>: Jan 10 01:54PM

On Sun, 10 Jan 2021 13:51:00 +0000, Adrian Caspersz
>There is no traditional AM/FM/digital radio tuner in the thing.
 
>Internet only.
 
>Settings beyond WiFi could well be in the cloud.
 
Yes, and it remembered my choices perfectly well for many years before
developing dementia, so I think it's fair to assume there's an
internal power supply of some sort.
Andy Burns <usenet@andyburns.uk>: Jan 10 02:31PM

Cursitor Doom wrote:
 
 
> Yes, and it remembered my choices perfectly well for many years before
> developing dementia, so I think it's fair to assume there's an
> internal power supply of some sort.
 
It might send its unique ID to the cloud, which remembers your
favourites and tells the "radio" every time it boots?
 
Does it manage to remember your WiFi credentials every time you turn it
on? Try a factory reset if it has one buried in the menus.
 
Maybe the "favourites" part of the cloud has gone away? Or is
geo-restricted?
Bernie <bernie.usenet@gmail.com>: Jan 10 07:05PM

On Sun, 10 Jan 2021 15:34:07 +0000
> know already what the problem was since they quoted me 40 quid to fix
> it I'm just wondering if they don't do anything to the radio but just
> renew my subscription or something like that.
 
https://forums.digitalspy.com/discussion/2337021/roberts-internet-radio-no-access-to-favourites
Cursitor Doom <cd@noreply.com>: Jan 10 10:59PM

On Sun, 10 Jan 2021 21:55:28 +0000, Adrian Caspersz
>> the radio and to either return (for a read request) or save (for a
>> write request) the user settings in association with that serial
>> number.
 
I see. Well, I never wanted *anything* to do with 'the cloud' - ever.
So if that had been the case I'd have had strong words with Roberts!
 
 
 
>Suggest, (if it still works) registering an account (Page 30) and
>storing favourites there.
 
>Mr Doom. You won't find a battery or a cap. Give up.
 
Many thanks indeed for that summary, Adrian; much appreciated.
I have never - knowingly - ever done any updates at all since I bought
the thing. I bought Roberts because I've had their broadcast recievers
in the past and been very happy with them in all respects. They were a
bit pricey (though not as much as a Hacker) but the build and sound
quality was very good. Their internet radios, OTOH, have none of that
reassuringly solid feel about them.
I think I'll reassemble it and have a think about how to proceed from
there tomorrow....
amdx <amdx@knology.net>: Jan 13 12:54PM -0600

On 1/13/2021 9:11 AM, Ralph Mowery wrote:
> specilizes in restoring old electronics. Hard for me to see any shop or
> one doing much work would not have a soldering gun that could be used.
> Maybe many do not know the soldering gun could be used.
 
 30+ years ago, I put two automotive speakers with big magnets near my
TV. It caused a problem on both sides of the screen.
 
Turning it on and off, hoping the internal degausser would fix didn't.
Even waiting for the PTC to cool.
 
I used my soldering gun and that fixed it.
 
I found this at $48,
 
> https://www.zoro.com/gc-electronics-specialty-tool-degaussing-coil-9317/i/G2187702/?msclkid=6f57a35d108c1b09d9b6fca2506be797&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=PLA_US_Bing_SSC&utm_term=4586131721760512&utm_content=All%20Products&gclid=6f57a35d108c1b09d9b6fca2506be797&gclsrc=3p.ds
                               Mikek
 
 
 
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Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Jan 13 01:47PM -0800

Ralph Mowery wrote:
=================
 
 
> I thought most crt screens had a coil around then that helped degauss
> them every time they are turned on. Unless someone puts a magnet near
> the screen I doubt that many would need degausing.
 
** Correct = ALL crt colour TVs and monitors have automatic degaussing at switch on.
Most monitors have user operated de-gaussing as well.
 
TV techs may need a de-gausser for that rare event you mentioned .
 
> Maybe many do not know the soldering gun could be used.
 
** Such guns are getting hard to find.
Demand is so low, few wholesalers stock them.
 
..... Phil
Ralph Mowery <rmowery28146@earthlink.net>: Jan 13 06:02PM -0500

In article <632321b5-734e-4874-b4e3-ffd3def22e8bn@googlegroups.com>,
pallison49@gmail.com says...
 
> > Maybe many do not know the soldering gun could be used.
 
> ** Such guns are getting hard to find.
> Demand is so low, few wholesalers stock them.
 
Except for the shops that restore old devices with CRTs in them I doubt
that very many shops even work on the CRT units. You can buy some of
the newer LCDs for what it would cost for many shops to look at the
older sets of the same size screens. I am not sure if any TV sets that
had the CRTs in them are even capabile of the new format of the TV
signals with out a converter.
 
I do know of one man and wife that still use the old set with the
satalite dish. To top it all off he was an electronics engineer with
the Bell and Western Electric system. He is 80 years old and somehow
seems to mostly be stuck in the years before transistors. He is a ham
radio operator and has much gear produced from about 1930 to 1970 and
can work on that with no problem.
 
Local wholesellers may not stock them,but there are plenty on the
internet. Even Home Depot has them for about $ 45. About 5 years ago I
bought just the replacement housing for a gun I have had over 50 years.
I had dropped it several times during that time and the last time
finished off the housing. As just a hobbiest I do not use one very
much, but do not see how I could get along with out one. I do use the
SMD rework hot air and small iron most of the time.
 
You did jog my memory. I remember monitors that had the degauss switch
on them. They probably put that on them as many of the computers did
have speakers with magnets close to the screen.
Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Jan 13 05:15PM -0800

Ralph Mowery wrote:
==================
 
> You did jog my memory. I remember monitors that had the degauss switch
> on them. They probably put that on them as many of the computers did
> have speakers with magnets close to the screen.
 
** Never seen a PC speaker that did NOT use shielded magnets on the drivers.
 
FYI Consists of a second ferrite ring magnet to cancel external fields - plus a steel cover..
 
 
..... Phil
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