sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Google Groups

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Sep 26 12:09AM -0700 Schwartz wrote: =============   > > ** Here's the PSU part:   > > https://www.canuckaudiomart.com/details/649678917-fidelity-research-c7-a-preamp/images/2987480/   > Thanks Phil, That is exactly what I needed.   ** You need to improve your Googling skills.   When looking for schems and such, try clicking on "images'. The eye can spot relevant images much quicker that scrolling masses of irrelevant hits on Google.   I found the link above in about 60 seconds that way.     ...... Phil

Aoli <Aoli@Aoli.com>: Sep 25 12:30PM -0700 4000 or 2000 joule ( I think ) floor unit.   Large lamps plug into it to share energy.   Where to find schematics ?   Where to find a repair shop ?   Sure it needs new caps !

You received this digest because you're subscribed to updates for this group. You can change your settings on the group membership page. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it send an email to sci.electronics.repair+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com.

sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Google Groups

bob prohaska <bp@www.zefox.net>: Sep 25 04:03AM Does anybody know of links to well-informed descriptions of how AC capacitive discharge ignition circuits work?   The case at hand is a 1986 Suzuki DT4 outboard motor. It's a 2-stroke 1-cylinder 4 HP engine, probably not much different in ignition requirements from any other small engine. It uses two bar-style pickup coils, one to charge the cap and one 180 degrees away to fire the plug. The CDI box is distinct from the pickup coils, all are distinct from the ignition coil. Parts are no longer available. There's a photo at http://www.zefox.net/~bp/dt4/PXL_20210923_005603433.jpg   The initial diagnosis was an open ignition coil, but a replacement produced one spark and nothing more. Maybe the new ignition coil killed the CDI unit, or maybe we're barking up the wrong tree entirely.   With a better idea how it worked in general, there might be a chance at identifying some other engine with compatible parts, or, in the best case, of identifying and fixing the trouble. At this point it appears the two coils in the photo are functional.   Thanks for reading, and any ideas!   bob prohaska

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Sep 24 10:17PM -0700 bob prohaska wrote: ================ > parts, or, in the best case, of identifying and fixing the > trouble. At this point it appears the two coils in the photo > are functional.     ** I used to work on CDIs back in the 70s for a kit retailer.   Those ones use a pair of 2N3055s in a self oscillating inverter to produce 300VDC. Then an SCR to fire a charged 1uF poly cap into the vehicle's coil. The usual points controlled SCR firing - so a bit different to a 2 stroke OB.   However, the commonest failure was the 1uF cap. It had to be a special, high pulse current type to survive at all.   Oil filled, metal can ones were good - if you can find any. Otherwise a " polypropylene " fluoro PF correction cap would be OK too.       ...... Phil

Mike S <mscir@yahoo.com>: Sep 25 02:01AM -0700 On 9/24/2021 9:03 PM, bob prohaska wrote: > are functional.   > Thanks for reading, and any ideas!   > bob prohaska   Part numbers https://www.megazip.net/zapchasti-dlya-lodochnyh-motorov/suzuki/dt4-2462/dt4-8058/dt4-vg-767164/electrical-13320932

Wond <lost@the.ether.net>: Sep 25 03:20PM On Sat, 25 Sep 2021 04:03:41 +0000, bob prohaska wrote:   > the two coils in the photo are functional.   > Thanks for reading, and any ideas!   > bob prohaska   ISTR there's one in the venerable GE semiconductor manual

Tim Schwartz <tim@bristolnj.com>: Sep 25 08:11AM -0400 On 9/23/2021 5:22 PM, Phil Allison wrote:   > https://www.canuckaudiomart.com/details/649678917-fidelity-research-c7-a-preamp/images/2987480/   > .... Phil   Thanks Phil, That is exactly what I needed.   Regards, Tim

You received this digest because you're subscribed to updates for this group. You can change your settings on the group membership page. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it send an email to sci.electronics.repair+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com.

sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Google Groups

Tim Schwartz <tim@bristolnj.com>: Sep 23 02:02PM -0400 Hello all,   I've got a Precision Fidelity C7 preamp here, and could really use a schematic to figure out what a previous person did to it. It is easy to find a diagram of the phono stage on line, but not the rest of it (Power Supplies and output stage). Anyone happen to have one they could share?   Thanks! Tim

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Sep 23 02:22PM -0700 Tim Schwartz wrote: =============== > schematic to figure out what a previous person did to it. It is easy to > find a diagram of the phono stage on line, but not the rest of it (Power > Supplies and output stage). Anyone happen to have one they could share?   ** Here's the PSU part:   https://www.canuckaudiomart.com/details/649678917-fidelity-research-c7-a-preamp/images/2987480/       .... Phil

You received this digest because you're subscribed to updates for this group. You can change your settings on the group membership page. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it send an email to sci.electronics.repair+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com.

sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Google Groups

Rob <nomail@example.com>: Sep 23 03:00PM +0200 Akai also had 1/4" machines, even a machine that could be used both as a video- and an audio recorder (using standard track layout for audio).

"ohg...@gmail.com" <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Sep 22 11:11AM -0700 On Monday, September 20, 2021 at 5:53:41 PM UTC-4, bruce bowser wrote:   > Its worse when the fumes in the manhole are flammable: > -- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=plLh7xznyWY   Now referred to a Person Access Portal.

Chris K-Man <thekmanrocks@gmail.com>: Sep 22 12:59PM -0700 On Monday, September 20, 2021 at 5:44:14 PM UTC-4, bruce bowser wrote:   > > This incident a lot more dramatic:   > > https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=vyw98flWX4Q&bpctr=1631237698&t=20s > The video won't work. You tube says: This video has been removed for violating YouTube's Community Guidelines. _______   Fuckin COMMUNISTS... Sorry!

Chris K-Man <thekmanrocks@gmail.com>: Sep 22 01:02PM -0700 On Monday, September 20, 2021 at 5:53:41 PM UTC-4, bruce bowser wrote:   > > Three people died. The Darwin Award people refused to use this story - for reasons not stated. > Its worse when the fumes in the manhole are flammable: > -- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=plLh7xznyWY ______   If I did that as a 7-10 year old I'd have been GROUNDED STRAIGHT UP UNTIL COLLEGE

None <none@nospam.invalid>: Sep 23 07:16AM -0500 On Wed, 22 Sep 2021 12:59:51 -0700, > Fuckin COMMUNISTS... Sorry!   Fucking retard doesn't know what a communist is. Dumbfuck.

You received this digest because you're subscribed to updates for this group. You can change your settings on the group membership page. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it send an email to sci.electronics.repair+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com.

sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Google Groups

Tim Schwartz <tim@bristolnj.com>: Sep 22 09:52AM -0400 Hi there,   These 1/2 inch machines came in 2 generations, the CV series which were propitiatory skip field machines, so only played tapes recorded on another Sony CV series machine. All of the Japanese manufacturers did that at the time.   Then they standardized to the EIAJ-1 standard, full field machines, and all of the makes made tapes that would interchange. the Sony machines were the AV3400 (luggable) AV-3600, AV-3650, and later color machines AV8400 (luggable) and a AC operated one as well (AV8650?)   As I recall from my high School days in the later 1970's, the mechanical design was similar to the audio reel-to-reel machines, with idlers and belts. The slip rings on the rotating heads needed attention too.   Please note that all of this info is for USA market NTSC (Never The Same color) machines, and is subject top the (in)accuracy of my memory of 45 years ago.   Best regards, Tim Schwartz     On 9/19/2021 3:52 PM, Cydrome Leader wrote:

You received this digest because you're subscribed to updates for this group. You can change your settings on the group membership page. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it send an email to sci.electronics.repair+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com.

sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Google Groups

Perry Froelich <froelichperry1@gmail.com>: Sep 20 07:25PM -0700 Panasonic RN-001D not recording Powers on Both wheels of cassette spin Orange record tab goes down when pressed Record Battery light does not show. Don't have any prerecorded micro cassettes to test speakers unfortunately, but have tried headphones and have gotten tape noise through it. So assume its a mic issue rather than a speaker issue. Any ideas of things I could possibly try?

Clifford Heath <no.spam@please.net>: Sep 21 09:46AM +1000 On 20/9/21 5:52 am, Cydrome Leader wrote: > have not located any tapes for it yet.   > Any fun facts or stories about these things or tips for trying to fire it > up again?   A good friend has spent his career servicing video gear, and is one of the Australian service agents for Sony. I could ask him, I'm sure he'll have all the best tips.   The first thing he'll probably say is to use an incandescent light-bulb limiter in series with the mains supply when you turn it on. And if you have to open it due to a fault, do the regular eyeball check for dry joints and blown fuses before running around all the electrolytics with an ESR tester. Also it probably has belts and rollers that have perished.   CH

Jasmin Zingapan <jasmin.zingapan2001@gmail.com>: Sep 20 04:15PM -0700 > > ___________________________________________________________________________________________________   > > contact me to : matt...@gmail.com mattosbw1(at)gmail.com   > > ___________________________________________________________________________________________________ Good morning, may I ask for the soft copy of Solution manual Principles of Environmental Engineering and Science (3rd Ed., Mackenzie Davis & Susan Masten)

bruce bowser <bruce2bowser@gmail.com>: Sep 20 02:44PM -0700 On Thursday, September 9, 2021 at 9:06:43 PM UTC-4, Chris K-Man wrote: > _______   > This incident a lot more dramatic:   > https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=vyw98flWX4Q&bpctr=1631237698&t=20s   The video won't work. You tube says: This video has been removed for violating YouTube's Community Guidelines.

bruce bowser <bruce2bowser@gmail.com>: Sep 20 02:50PM -0700 Another one. No buddy around - apparently. -- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KPUgPrDHk8c

bruce bowser <bruce2bowser@gmail.com>: Sep 20 02:53PM -0700 On Thursday, September 9, 2021 at 3:03:33 PM UTC-4, Peter W. wrote: > f) And a third. > g) It took a supervisor from dispatch over 40 minutes to reach the pit at that point, turn on the fans, and reactivate the gas sensors.   > Three people died. The Darwin Award people refused to use this story - for reasons not stated.   Its worse when the fumes in the manhole are flammable: -- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=plLh7xznyWY

You received this digest because you're subscribed to updates for this group. You can change your settings on the group membership page. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it send an email to sci.electronics.repair+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com.

sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Google Groups

Cydrome Leader <presence@MUNGEpanix.com>: Sep 19 07:52PM Has anyone here worked on or used a Sony reel to reel video tape recorder? I don't have a model number handy yet as the unit is trapped behind other stuff on a shelf. It's about the size of large turntable or small reel to reel audio recorder, it looks like it gets used laying flat on a table. I have not located any tapes for it yet.   Any fun facts or stories about these things or tips for trying to fire it up again?

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Sep 19 01:53PM -0700 Cydrome Leader wrote: ==================== > stuff on a shelf. It's about the size of large turntable or small reel to > reel audio recorder, it looks like it gets used laying flat on a table. I > have not located any tapes for it yet.   **There were numerous models.   Including the CV-2400CE" porta pak":   https://www.flickr.com/photos/madatechhc/8473899630   > Any fun facts or stories about these things or tips for trying to fire it > up again?     ** Well, I saw one of the above in use in about 1974/5.   Videoing a well dressed couple ( Pip & Wayne) dancing in a small room with a bright, halogen light on the floor. Took a few snaps with my Pentax K2, using that light. A B&W print of the event hangs on the wall in front of me now.     ...... Phil

bje@ripco.com: Sep 20 10:50AM > have not located any tapes for it yet.   > Any fun facts or stories about these things or tips for trying to fire it > up again?   The only positive thing I can think of is, back then the Sony stuff was hand made and except for parts (caps) rotting away because of age, probably still works.   Keep in mind it was more mechanical than electronic, so bearings might be froze from grease drying up, the transport used a number of giant sized idler wheels/tires which can develop flat spots.   Overall, unless you get the model number you just don't know where you stand, it sounds like one of the common ones that the Chicago Public Schools had in the 70's. Every school (grammar and HS) had one of those but rarely used because of the complexity of using them (along with the prehistoric cameras with 50 pin cables).   Unless you look at the back of it, you may not even be able to hook it up to anything. It's unlikely it has a channel 3 or 4 output, modulators were not common back then and it would be surprising if it even had video/audio out. Many recorders of that era had some weird EIAJ "port" where everything, video, audio, horizonal and vertical sync was on different pins. Those things were generally on a wheeled cart with the oversized 19" b&w monitor on top, somewhat dedicated to the recorder.   Assuming it is a 1/2" machine the tapes were generally not interchangable, one recorded on a Matsushita/National/Panasonic would likely not play on a Sony. Unless there is a pre-recorded tape (and take up reel) that is with it, even if you find them on Ebay or somewhere, you'll have to make a recording to see if it plays back and there you go with the 50 pin weird camera connection to deal with. Don't expect a simple video/audio in.   I'd personally leave it on the shelf unless there is a box of tapes with it, might be fun to see currently dead people (remember we're talking 40+ years here) playing basket ball in HS or doing a school play but without, just don't see an effort worthwhile to get it working.   -bruce bje@ripco.com

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Sep 20 04:09AM -0700 b...@ripco.com wrote: ================= > might be fun to see currently dead people (remember we're talking 40+ years > here) playing basket ball in HS or doing a school play but without, just > don't see an effort worthwhile to get it working.   ** LOL !! you make it seem like watching the Zapruder film ...     ...... Phil

You received this digest because you're subscribed to updates for this group. You can change your settings on the group membership page. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it send an email to sci.electronics.repair+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com.

sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Google Groups

vjp2.at@at.BioStrategist.dot.dot.com: Sep 16 05:01AM I need a few of these, described as supply or plug splitters as opposed to jack splitters. On Amazon and Walmart I only find 3.5mm plug splitters and 2.5mm jack splitters. Any ideas/sources?     -- Vasos Panagiotopoulos, Columbia'81+, Reagan, Mozart, Pindus blog: panix.com/~vjp2/ruminatn.htm - = - web: panix.com/~vjp2/vasos.htm facebook.com/vasjpan2 - linkedin.com/in/vasjpan02 - biostrategist.com ---{Nothing herein constitutes advice. Everything fully disclaimed.}---

You received this digest because you're subscribed to updates for this group. You can change your settings on the group membership page. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it send an email to sci.electronics.repair+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com.

sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Google Groups

ABLE1 <somewhere@nowhere.net>: Sep 10 02:13PM -0400 On 9/10/2021 11:29 AM, David Farber wrote: > -- > David Farber > Los Osos, CA   David,   If the unit was designed with out some kind of safety switch when a out of balance load occurs then that is not the issue since they don't exist. However, if there is a out of balance switch that is partially stuck then it would never get in the high spin cycle in the first place.   Your description of "out of balance" tells me that a safety switch to shut down does not exist. Which tells me the design engineering was missing something in order to cut co$t!! Sad!!!   Have a good weekend.   Les

David Farber <farberbear.unspam@aol.com>: Sep 10 01:39PM -0700 On 9/10/2021 11:13 AM, ABLE1 wrote: > missing something in order to cut co$t!!  Sad!!!   > Have a good weekend.   > Les   Hi Les,   You make a good point about design vs. cost. Because of this, I never leave the house when the washing machine is running.   Thanks for your reply. -- David Farber Los Osos, CA

ABLE1 <somewhere@nowhere.net>: Sep 10 05:04PM -0400 On 9/10/2021 4:39 PM, David Farber wrote: > -- > David Farber > Los Osos, CA   David,   The same applies to my wife that will not ever leave the house when the gas dryer is running. She made that decision after the wiring behind the the dryer caught FIRE!! It was the best house fire ever!! Just smoke damage and a bit of drywall repair. Spent a night in a Motel while the house was de-fumed from the smell. :-)   Again have a good weekend!!   Les

Ralph Mowery <rmowery42@charter.net>: Sep 10 06:01PM -0400 In article <zLP_I.27323$tA2.12492@fx02.iad>, somewhere@nowhere.net says... > It was the best house fire ever!! Just smoke damage and a > bit of drywall repair. Spent a night in a Motel while the > house was de-fumed from the smell. :-)   A friend had a dish washer catch on fire while he was out of the house. Not too much actual damage to the house except for the smoke. Almost everything in the house needed cleaning . He was out of the house for several months for the smoke cleaning.   I try not to leave the house when the washer, drier or dish washer is running and everything is electric.

"Peter W." <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Sep 11 04:45AM -0700 While there is nothing at all wrong with being tethered to a house when certain appliances are in operation, please understand that such failures as described did not happen spontaneously - but for (usually) a good and often obvious reason. And, at bottom, never a surprise.   - Damaged wiring: Wiring that has been compromised by age, friction, impact, vermin or other physical causes. This may be prevented by reasonably frequent inspections. After all, it is right there. - Incorrect or poorly installed wiring: Under-sized wire, bad receptacle, cut ground , all the sorts of things that happen in a thoughtless environment. - Simple stupidity: Allowing lint to build up, compromised vent. flammable liquids stored nearby, you get the picture.   Over the years, I have seen a number of issues brought up here that are born of the 'wait until it breaks' school of maintenance vs. the 'preventive maintenance' school. That is all to often tragic behavior, very nearly always costly, and very much always terribly inconvenient.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

ABLE1 <somewhere@nowhere.net>: Sep 11 08:30AM -0400 On 9/11/2021 7:45 AM, Peter W. wrote:   > Over the years, I have seen a number of issues brought up here that are born of the 'wait until it breaks' school of maintenance vs. the 'preventive maintenance' school. That is all to often tragic behavior, very nearly always costly, and very much always terribly inconvenient.   > Peter Wieck > Melrose Park, PA   Peter,   Now that the subject has changed a bit.............   I was a Maintenance Supervisor for 14 Years in Manufacturing. I did a huge amount of Preventive Maintenance for all of those 14 years. And now that I have my own business for the past 32 years I can say that what you typed above is 100% correct. And in a perfect world there should be NO bad things that ever happen!!!   However, even in a Perfect World there has to be some room for the negative stuff to happen. If it didn't then there would be no reason for anybody to find fault in what just happened. Over time things build up, things change and things wear out. Presently "IDA" comes to my mind to be one of those negative things that happens..........   BTW for my Dryer it was 20 years old and the wiring from Mfg. was mostly in a bad location and/or poor design from the start and ended up igniting. My wife used an extinguisher to put out the flames and dialed 911. I actually broke the land speed record and followed one of the truck to my house. When I walked into the laundry there were two fire guys with a thermoscope looking at the wall behind the dryer shaking their heads. I said, I know you OWN My House at this time, do what you have to do but, be gentle, because I am the guy that has to fix it. They ended up cutting a hole in the drywall to find there was nothing smoldering. It was a rather easy fix!!   Now this discussion thread can go on for another few weeks. I personally will not contribute any further since I know how this "stuff" goes in the "newsgroups".   Have a good weekend.   Les

You received this digest because you're subscribed to updates for this group. You can change your settings on the group membership page. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it send an email to sci.electronics.repair+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com.

sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Google Groups

David Farber <farberbear.unspam@aol.com>: Sep 10 08:18AM -0700 On 9/9/2021 5:15 AM, Peter W. wrote: > What comes immediately to mind is that there must be some sort of magnet or solenoid that engages the clutch, with 0-voltage being the 'release' (freewheeling) state. Should there be some resistance in that contact - or dirt, or a bad relay, that may be enough to cause what you describe. When everything is pristine, even a low-pressure 'grip' is enough. But a few uses, and a bit of glaze on the clutch, and you are back to slipping.   > Peter Wieck > Melrose Park, PA   Hi Peter,   Regarding your clutch magnet/solenoid hypothesis, I cannot find any electrical connections to the transmission or to the clutch and drive system.   Yesterday I filled up the washer to the max and put it to the test. This time there were no problems. There is something intermittent going on. Eventually it will fail again and I'll remove the cover and see what exactly that clutch disc is doing.   Thanks for your reply. -- David Farber Los Osos, CA

David Farber <farberbear.unspam@aol.com>: Sep 10 08:29AM -0700 On 9/9/2021 5:08 AM, ABLE1 wrote: > it is not the issue.   > Good Luck,   > Les   Hi Les,   An out of balance switch wold make a lot of sense but in the past when the machine was out of balance, it would make very loud knocking noises when in the spin cycle and I'd have to run quickly back to the machine to turn off the power. There was never any automatic turn off. I've read many posts and watched many videos about Whirlpool direct drive machines with spin failures however there was not one mention about an out of a balance switch. If I ever locate one, I'll let you know!   Thanks for your reply. -- David Farber Los Osos, CA

bruce bowser <bruce2bowser@gmail.com>: Sep 09 10:19AM -0700 CCTV Video 3 guys Getting Electrocuted on a Steel Pole during flood Youtube - Sep 16, 2020 -- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=foISUIeqjy4

"Peter W." <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Sep 09 12:03PM -0700 True story:   Al Rashid Mall, Al Khobar, Saudi Arabia, main sewer pumping station: This is a 800,000 square foot mall including the likes of Marks & Spencer, Victoria's Secret and so forth.   One evening, the pumping station clogged partially, causing it to trip the overflow alarm. Now, this is a modern station, built in 2001, with all the safety equipment, including explosion-proof lights, motors and controls, exhaust fans, methane and CO detectors and alarms and so forth - and all were determined to be functioning at the time of the incident.   a) Worker arrives at the manhole access, puts the alarm on silence, and removes the cover. Apparently, he silenced the panel without looking at the faults: He had also silenced the gas alarms, b) He did not activated the exhaust fans, c) He did, apparently, identify what he thought was the clog, as he radioed to the central station to that effect, d) He climbed down into the pit - and was very quickly overcome by the fumes. e) Dispatch, not hearing from him, sent another tech, who, upon reaching the pit, also went in apparently to rescue the other - and was also overcome. f) And a third. g) It took a supervisor from dispatch over 40 minutes to reach the pit at that point, turn on the fans, and reactivate the gas sensors.   Three people died. The Darwin Award people refused to use this story - for reasons not stated.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

Chris K-Man <thekmanrocks@gmail.com>: Sep 09 06:06PM -0700 On Thursday, September 9, 2021 at 1:19:13 PM UTC-4, bruce bowser wrote: > CCTV Video 3 guys Getting Electrocuted on a Steel Pole during flood > Youtube - Sep 16, 2020 > -- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=foISUIeqjy4 _______   This incident a lot more dramatic:   https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=vyw98flWX4Q&bpctr=1631237698&t=20s

You received this digest because you're subscribed to updates for this group. You can change your settings on the group membership page. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it send an email to sci.electronics.repair+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com.

sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Google Groups

David Farber <farberbear.unspam@aol.com>: Sep 08 03:23PM -0700 I have a Whirlpool GSQ9300EQ0 direct drive washer. The date stamp says it's from 1998. In the past, the only thing that ever failed on it was the motor coupler. About every two or three years, I replace the coupler and all is normal again. We do some heavy loads in our household so that is not unexpected.   The new issue that cropped about a year ago was that the clothes were very wet after the final spin cycle. I did my diligent youtube viewing and suspected the clutch was bad. At first, I removed the old clutch, sprayed the clutch pads with brake cleaner, reinstalled everything and it worked fine for about 6 months. Then the washer landed back in the no spin zone. This time, I ordered a new (non-OEM) clutch and it worked fine for two loads and it stopped spinning again. I returned the clutch for a refund and put the old clutch back in after cleaning it again and it worked for a couple of months... and then it failed again. This time, I ordered the heavy duty, 6-pad, OEM clutch: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073RRW32D (the old one was the 3 pad type) and installed it two weeks ago. And of course after a couple of successful wash cycles, the washer doesn't spin again. If we remove some of the heavier clothes, it will spin up as usual. By the way, during my many clutch changes, I've never noticed any oil leaks.   For the first 20 years we owned the washer, this failure never happened and I'm thinking the clutch may not be the problem. I did some more research on how the transmission, motor, brakes, and clutch all operate and I have some questions:   Does the clutch pad assembly actually turn the basket? If so, does the basket drive link up with the hooks where the spring keeps the pads flush against the disc? (The next time the basket doesn't spin, I know I need to look at the clutch disc and see if it's spinning rather than just lighten the load until the basket spins again.) One mechanic uses a water bottle to squirt water on the clutch and says, "If the water boils or smokes like this, the clutch is slipping and you need to check it out." Makes sense to me. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q942xn_2VXY (at the 1:25 mark)   Also, there are several videos explaining how the neutral drain works and what happens when it fails. Supposedly when it fails, the basket will spin when it's not supposed to during the drain cycle. I was wondering, can the neutral drain assembly fail with the opposite symptom? Can the transmission get stuck in the neutral drain mode and not advance to the spin mode?   The last time I replaced the clutch, I made sure the brakes were not jammed and that the shoes moved easily. They were OK. I checked the lid switch to make sure that wasn't reading a high resistance. It was reading 0.2 ohms which is the same reading I get when I touch my meter probes together. I'm running out of ideas here. It doesn't make sense to me that two new clutches won't even last through 5 loads of wash.   Thanks for your reply. -- David Farber Los Osos, CA

ABLE1 <somewhere@nowhere.net>: Sep 08 06:33PM -0400 On 9/8/2021 6:23 PM, David Farber wrote: > -- > David Farber > Los Osos, CA     David,   First I don't know!!   However, check the "Out of Balance" switches to verify they have the .2 Ohms and that they are not stuck in wrong position.   Don't ask me why, just check it!!!   Les

David Farber <farberbear.unspam@aol.com>: Sep 08 07:15PM -0700 On 9/8/2021 3:33 PM, ABLE1 wrote:   > Don't ask me why, just check it!!!   > Les   > Hi Les,   I cannot find any information about an "Out of Balance" switch for this model.   Thanks for your reply. -- David Farber Los Osos, CA

ABLE1 <somewhere@nowhere.net>: Sep 09 08:08AM -0400 On 9/8/2021 10:15 PM, David Farber wrote: > -- > David Farber > Los Osos, CA   David,   Don't know your model but there should be a "Out of Balance" switch or two or not. If there is it may be the issue. If there isn't then it is not the issue.   Good Luck,   Les

"Peter W." <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Sep 09 05:15AM -0700 What comes immediately to mind is that there must be some sort of magnet or solenoid that engages the clutch, with 0-voltage being the 'release' (freewheeling) state. Should there be some resistance in that contact - or dirt, or a bad relay, that may be enough to cause what you describe. When everything is pristine, even a low-pressure 'grip' is enough. But a few uses, and a bit of glaze on the clutch, and you are back to slipping.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

Guy Patterson <str00ntz@aol.com>: Sep 08 12:45PM -0700 On Tuesday, September 7, 2021 at 10:59:48 AM UTC-4, Peter W. wrote: > spavined two-or-three wheeler... At the same time, were he not obsessed with counting pennies and imagined slights, it may improve his mood, So, more 'power' to him.   > Peter Wieck > Melroes Park, PA   ha!, had to google drongo. I'm guessing you're going by the slang and not the bird although I guess either would fit phil.

You received this digest because you're subscribed to updates for this group. You can change your settings on the group membership page. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it send an email to sci.electronics.repair+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com.

sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Google Groups

"ohg...@gmail.com" <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Sep 02 10:54AM -0700 > > A Tesla will run for over 4 hours on a charge at highway speeds, > > and there is never a charger more than 15 minutes away anywhere in the Northeast U.S.   > >** So there is simply NO countryside in the NE of the US ????   Sure there is open countryside, but a typical standard range Tesla has a real world range of over 200 miles, and long range versions are close to 300 miles. There is LITERALLY no place in the Northeast U.S. that one can drive more than 50 miles tops that without being in range of a charging station. Take a look at this map:   https://tesla-cdn.thron.com/delivery/public/image/tesla/f5cf574f-b9bb-438b-8b89-8d5af9d573b2/bvlatuR/std/2880x1620/Supercharger-Locations-Hero-Desktop-NA   And that map is just the *Supercharging* network. There are also far more slower "destination" chargers available almost anywhere, such as shopping plazas, hotels, highway rest stops, etc. Many of those are even free.   If you can somehow manage ignore the car's constant badgering to reroute to a charging station when you start getting low in range, you can literally plug in anywhere there's an AC outlet although that's a pretty slow way to charge.   Perhaps the "Tesla Freakoid Morons" are not lying - it is you who is simply wrong.

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Sep 02 04:06PM -0700 Peter Wanker Total Nut Case wrote: ------------------------------------------------------   > > >** So there is simply NO countryside in the NE of the US ????   ** This is what I actually wrote but has been snipped by fucking assholes. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ** AM radio has a huge advantage at long distance from the Tx. But seeing as Teslas cannot do long trips into the countryside..... -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------   ** Now I live in Australia which has vast unpopulated areas. No probs with a IC car with say 800 miles range. Refueling takes only a few minutes. So an IC car get will you anywhere there are roads. Not such thing possible with a stupid Tesla toy car.   A "long distance " from a Tx is IMO 200 miles or more. Way beyond FM range.   BTW The Peter Wanker fuckwit has never posted a true fact in his whole life.,   ...... Phil

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Sep 02 04:12PM -0700 ohg...@gmail.com wrote: ====================   > > >** So there is simply NO countryside in the NE of the US ????   > Sure there is open countryside,   ** Not what I originally posted.   " ... seeing as Teslas cannot do long trips into the countryside..... "   My idea apploes, not you fucked up one.     > but a typical standard range Tesla has a real world range of over 200 miles,   ** So about 1/4 that of a real car which of course can be refueled in minutes with no special facility needed.   > Perhaps the "Tesla Freakoid Morons" are not lying - it is you who is simply wrong.   ** You are LYING you head off right now. Freakoid.       ..... Phil

"Peter W." <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Sep 03 02:40AM -0700 > ..... Phil   You have no conception of how silly you are, do you?   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Sep 03 02:45AM -0700 Peter W. wrote: ============   > You have no conception of how silly you are, do you?   ** You were not conceived at all - a lizard pooped you out.     > Peter Wieck ...   ** Geriatric, radio ham & psychopath.

"Peter W." <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Sep 03 08:33AM -0700 Revise "Silly" to "Stupid".   Silly can be fixed, stupid cannot. Even with good medication.   Phil, your position as Village Idiot is secure. You need not try so hard.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

legg <legg@nospam.magma.ca>: Sep 03 11:12AM -0400 I've got a pretty reliable home-brew PC built on PCC A13G+ v3.0 motherboard that has only recently started to reboot itself after 15-30 minutes of operation. It normally only sees an internet connection for updates to AV or OS.   It's dual boot W2k / linux LXLE, and will reboot just from sitting at log-in screen in both OS. With W2k running, disablimg reboot on failure leaves the system with a BSOD, instead of rebooting.   It will run preboot memtest for 6hrs+ without fault, from either GRUB or a DOS floppy disk.   PSU, HDD replacement has no benefit, barebones.   W2k Device Mgr shows a USB Host Controller that is recognized but will not accept the normal usb drivers, while other enhanced controllers are listed normally. Disabling it doesn't prevent the reboot. Removing/reinstalling etc does not change its eventual status.   USB ports function. The faulty host seems to be treated as a usb device that can't be stopped in normal usb media removal dialog.   I'm trying to associated the USB Host issue to physical parts on the MBrd. I'm guessing it's not just a bus switch or port buffer.   Any ideas what to do next? Replacing the motherboard doesn't seem to be an option, as there aren't any of these out there anymore, second-hand or otherwise.   RL

None <none@nospam.invalid>: Sep 02 01:39PM -0500 > If a bar's got a Sony on the wall, in Vivid mode, Im can whip out my > Sony remote, and at least put it in Standard mode.   Dumbfuck OCD. FCKWAFA!

You received this digest because you're subscribed to updates for this group. You can change your settings on the group membership page. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it send an email to sci.electronics.repair+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com.