Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 1 update in 1 topic

Wolf Greenblatt <wolf@greenblatt.net>: Aug 31 01:16AM -0400

Thomas <canope234@gmail.com> wrote
 
> The app is called adorcam. No regrets. In my cart when i just looked at old orders was also a scandisk card. Bioth were about 85 bucks.
> The videos remain until you delete them. My wife deletes them from her phone and they are all deleted from all devices.
 
> Cameras for Home Security, 1080P Security Cameras Wireless Outdoor with Motion Detection, Spotlight/Siren Alarm, Color Night Vision, 2-Way Talk, Waterproof SD/Cloud Storage Battery Powered WiFi Camera
 
I had bought this only a month or two ago.
https://www.amazon.com/WOSPORTS-Wildlife-Scouting-Hunting-Waterproof/dp/B081ZYLZSX
 
It's a Wosports G100 Trail Camera. 16 Megapixels (5376x3024
Day and night mode (lots of IR LEDs). Motion sensor.
 
I have it locked with a six-inch Master lock holding it onto a steel post.
 
I would have bought the better one for another $3 had I seen it first.
https://www.amazon.com/Hawkray-30MP-Trail-Camera-Monitoring/dp/B0B76ZPZKH/
It looks like it has the same mounting holes that fit the long-hasp lock.
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 2 updates in 1 topic

Tim R <timothy42bach@gmail.com>: Aug 30 05:06AM -0700

On Tuesday, August 29, 2023 at 6:24:12 AM UTC-4, Peter W. wrote:
> It is called a "tempering valve" - what it does is, theoretically, prevent scalds by not allowing the hot water to run alone. Some are thermostatic, most are pressure-based. Those that are thermostatic tend to fail-cold. Those that are pressure-based can fail either way, or altogether. Generally, one must replace the cartridge - that is the internal part that does the mixing - to fix either. In hard-water or high particulate (sediment) situations, failures are quite common and can be very annoying.
 
> Peter Wieck
> Melrose Park, PA
 
I'm pretty sure this is a 2004 thread risen from the dead.
But anyway, I haven't seen a thermostatic one though they probably exist. All the ones I've seen in a large campus setting has been pressure based but the limit was a mechanical stop that couldn't be adjusted. What we found when we had a lot of complaints, particularly in group shower rooms like at a gym or old dormitory, is that the pressure from hot and cold water supply had to be within pretty tight constraints or these did not work. There was nothing wrong with the valve, but if it got more than maybe 5 pounds pressure on either it got strange results. And that can happen pretty easily with large usage upstream.
"Peter W." <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Aug 30 06:44AM -0700

https://www.build.com/product/summary/17862?uid=1251587&jmtest=gg-gbav2_1251587&inv2=1&&&&&&source=gg-gba-pla_1251587!c1709211103!a69367398840!dc!ng&gclid=Cj0KCQjw0bunBhD9ARIsAAZl0E2fa2POcWUBaCaI6wZEWhHjaViJi70J6TDiEi2cVFNLvWWaG_zTPLwaAixoEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
 
Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 4 updates in 1 topic

Dan Green <dhg99908@hotmail.se>: Aug 28 12:29PM +0100

Hi all,
 
Is this okay? I'm talking about replacing electros that have been in
service for like 30+ years and which have a rep for failing by then
(Frako caps) with old but unused electrolytics; so called "new old
stock" caps of reputable manufacturers of the same spec. I can't see
an issue with this but am no expert so.... what d'yall think?
 
Dan.
steve1001908@outlook.com: Aug 28 01:25PM +0100

On Mon, 28 Aug 2023 12:29:03 +0100, Dan Green <dhg99908@hotmail.se>
wrote:

>stock" caps of reputable manufacturers of the same spec. I can't see
>an issue with this but am no expert so.... what d'yall think?
 
>Dan.
 
In my experience duff electrolytics are usually obvious from the
electrolyte ooze. I was fooled once by an old Leo3 computer power
supply unit that had four 500uF electrolytics in parallel. It smoothed
well until the last one failed.
"Peter W." <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Aug 28 05:57AM -0700

On Monday, August 28, 2023 at 7:29:09 AM UTC-4, Dan Green wrote:
> stock" caps of reputable manufacturers of the same spec. I can't see
> an issue with this but am no expert so.... what d'yall think?
 
> Dan.
 
It has been my experience that electrolytic caps of a certain age are as likely to fail just sitting on a shelf as in service. I suggest you purchase modern, fresh caps of the proper size, voltage and style from a reputable source made by a reputable manufacturer. Why risk it?
 
Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
Cursitor Doom <cd@notformail.com>: Aug 28 04:07PM +0100

On Mon, 28 Aug 2023 05:57:32 -0700 (PDT), "Peter W."
>> an issue with this but am no expert so.... what d'yall think?
 
>> Dan.
 
>It has been my experience that electrolytic caps of a certain age are as likely to fail just sitting on a shelf as in service. I suggest you purchase modern, fresh caps of the proper size, voltage and style from a reputable source made by a reputable manufacturer. Why risk it?
 
Personally I've not had any problems with NOS electrolytics provided
they were sourced through RS or suchlike originally. But YMMV.
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 2 updates in 1 topic

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Aug 24 11:03AM -0700

On Wed, 23 Aug 2023 08:12:59 -0700, The Real Bev
>available, and conversions are sometimes iffy), but the suggestion
>(somewhere in the flailing process) that the control panel on the
>printer would give the new IP address was the magic solution to the problem.
 
If you do that, you might as well configure the printer for a
pre-allocated IP address or a static IP address. I prefer
pre-allocated.
 
>I was really impressed with Brother's linux support with my previous
>super-cheap laser printer. Not so much with this one. Still, much
>better than nothing.
 
That would be a HL-L2395DW. I haven't had any experience with that
model.
 
>Does Canon still spit on linux?
 
I don't think Canon knows what Linux is. Nothing on Canon's web pile.
This page describes the typical ordeal process:
<https://www.linuxfordevices.com/tutorials/linux/install-canon-printer-drivers-on-linux>
I had one customer with a Canon imageCLASS something color laser
office printer. They had to hide any evidence that Linux was being
used in the office when the authorized service center tech was on-site
or they would (unofficially) refuse to work on the printer.
 
My guess(tm) is that your Linux problems are buried in Brother's
implementation of IPP. CUPS uses IPP to deliver printing that does
NOT require installing a printer specific driver:
<https://wiki.debian.org/CUPSDriverlessPrinting>
If one model printer works, but another model printer does not, it's
mostly likely a problem with the printers implementation of IPP. Not
much you can do about that except to check for printer firmware
updates. Since the lower end Brother laser printers cost only a
little more than a service call, I often suggested that buying a newer
model would solve the printing problem. I've only done that maybe 5
times, but it worked every time. Incidentally, Apple AirPrint also
uses IPP and can have similar problems.
 
 
--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
PO Box 272 http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Ben Lomond CA 95005-0272
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
The Real Bev <bashley101@gmail.com>: Aug 25 08:32AM -0700

On 8/24/23 11:03 AM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
>>better than nothing.
 
> That would be a HL-L2395DW. I haven't had any experience with that
> model.
 
The HL2170 (I think; cheapest one they made) came with CUPS and linux
drivers on the disk. So did the previous cheap Samsung, which was
always a dog and insisted on wrinkling paper. The disk with the 2395
had NOTHING except windows and mac stuff, but included the repair tools
you mentioned previously. I think there was some sort of automatic
setup when I turned on the 2395, but I just don't remember where its
info came from. Maybe when CUPS updated when I upgraded to Slackware
14.2. Just a guess.
 
>>Does Canon still spit on linux?
 
> I don't think Canon knows what Linux is. Nothing on Canon's web pile.
> This page describes the typical ordeal process:
 
I've got a chaap Canoscan scanner that does slides. Nice device, but I
had to use windows with it. SANE has some capability now, maybe even
full, but I haven't used it since 2005. Damn, I had to go look at the
dates on the files. I seem to remember making a phone call and being
told "We do not support linux" in a rather stuffy voice as if I'd asked
him about his porn preferences.
 
> office printer. They had to hide any evidence that Linux was being
> used in the office when the authorized service center tech was on-site
> or they would (unofficially) refuse to work on the printer.
 
See above reference to porn...
 
I liked my Canon camera too (with serious exception regarding its
battery contacts), but I had to take the card out and read it
separately. Not a big problem, but still...
 
> model would solve the printing problem. I've only done that maybe 5
> times, but it worked every time. Incidentally, Apple AirPrint also
> uses IPP and can have similar problems.
 
We have 3 slackware machines feeding the printer wirelessly via the
router. Two of them work, one obstinately refuses. The windows machine
is connected via USB and is no problem at all. I haven't tried printing
from my phone. We've temporarily given up getting the third machine to
print; workarounds exist.
 
I can't scan to my computer using the buttons on the printer; it just
doesn't see a PC and there seems to be no way to tell it there is one.
I could email it to myself or send it to dropbox et al., of course. Or
turn on the winmachine and then transfer the files to my REAL
computer... Fortunately Xsane works.
 
I have to wonder if a more user-friendly distribution would just take
care of the nastiness all by itself...
 
--
Cheers, Bev
"A democracy cannot exist as a permanent form of government. It can
only exist until a majority of voters discover that they can vote
themselves largess out of the public treasury."
-- Alexander Tyler (Unverified)
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 2 updates in 1 topic

Trevor Wilson <trevor@rageaudio.com.au>: Aug 24 09:02AM +1000

> with foot pedals that could email you the file. Usually at some big law firm
> we sometimes hired. With most home scanners you need to do a dance every time
> you turn the page.
 
**No-brainer. Buy a laser device. Of the laser units, I prefer HP, but
Brother is probably as good, but a bit cheaper. DO NOT EVER BUY a Samsung.
 
I've owned an HP MFP M479fnw for a couple of years (still current, I
believe). It has performs flawlessly for that period. It's fast and even
prints photos with respectable quality, though not up to good ink jet
quality. If I had my druthers, I would have spent the extra and bought
the duplex printing model for a few extra Bucks. As it is, I have to
shuffle paper around to arrange duplex printing. Toner is expensive, but
lasts a long time. Paper jams are very, very rare and easily cleared
when they do occur. Swapping toner cartridges is a doddle. Nothing like
the Samsung, which jammed every other day and required a screwdriver to
clear!
 
Just don't buy a Samsung. Buy an HP or a Brother.
 
--
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
www.avast.com
Tim R <timothy42bach@gmail.com>: Aug 24 06:03AM -0700

On Wednesday, August 23, 2023 at 7:02:28 PM UTC-4, Trevor Wilson wrote:
> > Please advise.
 
> > I'm looking for a heavy duty sole-practitioner multifunction printer, fax,
> > scanner, &c (was gonna jibe: toothbrush, vaccuum, dishwasher, and pet
 
I use a Brother black and white laser. I haven't seen an affordable color laser with good quality, and the kids are grown so no more need for color for schoolwork. B&W is enough for 98%, and I can use an office supply store on the rare occasions I need color. Ink jets are a waste of time, IMO.
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 4 updates in 1 topic

vjp2.at@at.BioStrategist.dot.dot.com: Aug 22 02:05PM

Please advise.
 
I'm looking for a heavy duty sole-practitioner multifunction printer, fax,
scanner, &c (was gonna jibe: toothbrush, vaccuum, dishwasher, and pet
shampooer). I'm guessing I need to spend more like $500. I had gotten the
cheapest HP inkjet recently and it was a disappointment. (I just moved and
junked about half of my equipement to save on moving.)
 
Not sure if I want cartridge-less inkjet or laser. For pure home, I'd prefer
ink jet. For office, I'd get laser toner but keep it in a place where I don't
mind dusty toner spills (heck, garage works). In same cases I still use MSDOS
and would like the printer to know what plain text ascii is. I had a 2005
Panasonic dot matrix that didn't.
 
I had an HP OJLX printer 1995-2015 which worked great. I refilled it by
syringe. But about a third of the time it didn't "equalise" right and leaked.
 
I also worked with some folks who had a big professional HP 5555
which I could do wheelies with from the computer. I loved it, but can't
afford it. It was leased & profesionally maintained monthly
To do stuff like that on my own, I use Fedex/Kinko.
 
But some friends had the cheapest HP laser printers at their home and they
could be real wimpy. For example when you did two sided card stock, the toner
on the back side didn't fuse well. I'd'a thought the hotter the better (ie,
it didn't cool'nuff because it was thicker) butit was disappointing.
 
I still have my HP41C calculator and am planning of refurbishing my hp2621a
terminal (screen has "cataract", ie, glue deteriorated). I loved HP products
most of my life, but, yes, firms change.
 
My first printer (1982-95) was also great, Oki 82a. It used regular old
fashioned typewriter ribbons. It was like an army tank. I so kick myself for
dumping it when I got the HPOJLX, I just ordered a used one on eBay. With
film ribbon, in the early 80s some folks thought I had a Wang. Yes,I'm that
old. Except we used Wang at work ca 1985, not at home.
 
I also still got my SCM daisy wheel "robot typewriter".
 
Dunno about interfaces. Had mixed experience using USB to parallel or serial.
 
Yeah, and when I need to scan big stuff, I really miss those big xerox copiers
with foot pedals that could email you the file. Usually at some big law firm
we sometimes hired. With most home scanners you need to do a dance every time
you turn the page.
 
--
Vasos Panagiotopoulos panix.com/~vjp2/vasos.htm
---{Nothing herein constitutes advice. Everything fully disclaimed.}---
steve1001908@outlook.com: Aug 22 03:26PM +0100

On Tue, 22 Aug 2023 14:05:00 -0000 (UTC),
>shampooer). I'm guessing I need to spend more like $500. I had gotten the
>cheapest HP inkjet recently and it was a disappointment. (I just moved and
>junked about half of my equipement to save on moving.)
 
Canon do a range of printers that have always met my needs over the
years. Since retiring my printing needs are just at home and the
TS5151 does everything I need. It's multifunction but not heavy duty.
They do heavy duty printers but I don't need one at the moment.
The Real Bev <bashley101@gmail.com>: Aug 22 07:46AM -0700

> years. Since retiring my printing needs are just at home and the
> TS5151 does everything I need. It's multifunction but not heavy duty.
> They do heavy duty printers but I don't need one at the moment.
 
I've been really happy with my Brother printers, including the
HL-L2395DW print/scan/copy/fax/email I've had for 2 years now. New
toner cart is $20 or so.
 
The wireless connection is annoying, though. When we had a power
failure recently our router got a new IP address for the printer and we
went through a LOT of shit before discovering that that was the problem.
There's a USB connection for the windows machine (no wireless
capability), but the linux machines have to do things wirelessly. CUPS
is a real POS.
 
--
Cheers, Bev
"My parents just came back from a planet where the dominant lifeform
had no bilateral symmetry, and all I got was this stupid F-Shirt."
Dan Purgert <dan@djph.net>: Aug 22 03:43PM

> where I don't mind dusty toner spills (heck, garage works). In same
> cases I still use MSDOS and would like the printer to know what plain
> text ascii is. [...]
 
Brother "MFC" series laser printer sounds like it'll fit the bill --
printer/copier/fax with the ability to save PDF scans to network storage
or email directly. I've never had one of their cartridges "spill" on me,
and the cyclical nature of how I print means that inkjets dry / clog up
in between bouts of "printing a lot" (and $30 or whatever for a brand
new cartridge every 4 months when I need to print again ... ehhhh no).
 
Does pretty okay with most "printer-friendly" paper weights (most of my
printing is done on 90 pound paper), and I've run some cardstock
through, though that's a pretty rare occurrence. Wife and kids like it
for printing color as well (although "color" wasn't a prime requisite
for buying this one).
 
 
--
|_|O|_|
|_|_|O| Github: https://github.com/dpurgert
|O|O|O| PGP: DDAB 23FB 19FA 7D85 1CC1 E067 6D65 70E5 4CE7 2860
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 1 update in 1 topic

"Brian Gaff" <brian1gaff@gmail.com>: Aug 21 10:48AM +0100

If you coasted your time for all this, you could have bought a new one.
Brian
 
--
 
--:
This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
The Sofa of Brian Gaff...
briang1@blueyonder.co.uk
Blind user, so no pictures please
Note this Signature is meaningless.!
"N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote in message
news:ubt4ls$1caq7$1@dont-email.me...
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 2 updates in 1 topic

Ronald <ronaldbellis85@gmail.com>: Aug 18 07:41PM -0700

On Saturday, August 8, 2015 at 11:15:10 PM UTC-4, Shaun wrote:
> effort since Onkyo has a good name for mid quality Hi-Fi equipment. Then
> look on the internet for replacements or Substitutes and get a matched pair.
 
> Shaun
Only a m5160 other than what I've wrote to the military why would a amp play on both yet not just one both channels work just not at the same time simultaneously.. bull shit
root <NoEMail@home.org>: Aug 19 04:10PM

>> look on the internet for replacements or Substitutes and get a matched pair.
 
>> Shaun
> Only a m5160 other than what I've wrote to the military why would a amp play on both yet not just one both channels work just not at the same time simultaneously.. bull shit
 
 
I've had two Onkyo receivers in the past. Strange things happened with them such
as FM not working, one or the other channel would go out. In each case
I put the receiver on a shelf and bought another. The first time it happened
I had replaced the Onkyo with a newer Onkyo. After a while the new Onkyo
flaked out and I bought a Denon. Then for some reason I connected the
original Onkyo up and everything worked. After a while I tried the same
thing with the second Onkyo and it also worked. My conclusion is that
if you unplug the Onkyo and leave to so for several days it heals
itself.
 
YMMV
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 3 updates in 1 topic

three_jeeps <jjhudak@gmail.com>: Aug 17 01:44PM -0700

On Thursday, August 10, 2023 at 10:33:57 PM UTC-4, rbowman wrote:
 
> https://towardsdatascience.com/text-generation-with-markov-chains-an-
> introduction-to-using-markovify-742e6680dc33
 
> Markov chains are relatively simple.
 
I developed ANN classifiers in the mid-late 80s for explosive recognition in suitcases and as hardware plant observers for control loops. The size of the training set is one of the issues...but..... the web has a gazillion images that training sets are harvested. I know of a few local self-driving car companies that do exactly that.
 
Yes, verification of the ANN is and still is a big issue.
J
three_jeeps <jjhudak@gmail.com>: Aug 17 01:52PM -0700

On Thursday, August 10, 2023 at 2:43:50 PM UTC-4, micky wrote:
> or moderately complicated computer programs, black boxes maybe, but not
> AI.
 
> What say you?
I did a fair amount of 'AI' research in the 80s and early 90s. The amount of hype was amazing and it was all about 'branding' IMHO...a new science fiction technology made real. I bundled up for the first AI winter....I've moved to a different climate where I don't have to bundle up for the second AI winter.....
 
The really hard aspects of AI are knowledge discovery and composition which has made some progress but nowhere near sensational. Ask a computer program to design and build an automatic transmission, and then figure out why it doesn't work as well when a different ATF is used.....We are *really* far away from that.
whit3rd <whit3rd@gmail.com>: Aug 17 08:46PM -0700

On Friday, August 11, 2023 at 2:42:17 AM UTC-7, Paul wrote:
 
> You've just run 200 pages through the scanner. Now what...
 
> Voluminous output, that must be scrupulously checked.
 
> An "advisor", not a "boss".
 
Yeah, you DO want to classify that source. Alas, the
internet is set up so... it could be that 'Paul' is an AI.
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 1 update in 1 topic

Paul <nospam@needed.invalid>: Aug 16 06:05PM -0400

On 8/15/2023 8:01 PM, micky wrote:
 
 
> Maybe so. Very interesting comments from all of you.
 
When you've got a moment (after you've fixed your clock),
could you zip over and look at this question.
 
There's a guy who owns more Internet Radios than he knows
what to do with, who is getting "disconnected" randomly.
 
<ubinjc$3b5dd$1@dont-email.me>
 
http://al.howardknight.net/?STYPE=msgid&MSGI=%3Cubinjc%243b5dd%241%40dont-email.me%3E
 
In a previous message, he identifies the brands of the units.
"sanstrom" brand and "majority" brand. The UK seems to have had
its share of these things, over the years.
 
<uasvso$3b2gu$1@dont-email.me>
 
http://al.howardknight.net/?STYPE=msgid&MSGI=%3Cuasvso%243b2gu%241%40dont-email.me%3E
 
I have no idea, how the directory feature works on those, to
create the list of stations.
 
And the other thing I don't know, is if IR has made any
recent changes to the transport protocol, which might
break a radio.
 
Paul
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 4 updates in 2 topics

vjp2.at@at.BioStrategist.dot.dot.com: Aug 15 09:34AM

I used "AI" since 1978. But every few years, what used to be AI becomes
commonplace and stops being alled AI. Character and voice recognition, file
completion, symbolic manipulation (Macsyma, Wolfram), ELIZA psychanalyser,
were once called AI. Then again, I'm a 62yo (familially) third generation
computer user as well as a third generation engineer. If you used Marvin
Minsky's fifty year old psychanalysis program ELIZA (available in emacs as
doctor; I use it for night time OCD panic attacks), ChatGPT looks awfully
boring. I've used fractals (EXCEL:LOGEST) for fraud detection for four
decades.
 
 
Gregory Nazianzen, the Great, tells us all creativity is divine (28:6; 1
cor 3:5-9) and denounced anti-science at Basil's funeral (42:11) as ignorant,
lazy and stupid. (My namesake, Basil of Caereria, was a physician, who
invented the concept of a hospital.) This may be found on p151 of the 1977
OEDB Patrsitics textbook used in high schools in Greece (Evagelos Theodorou,
Anthology of Holy Fathers.) More completely from Florovsky v7 p109 "We
derive something useful for our orthodoxy even from the worldly
science.. Everyone who has a mind will recognize that learning is our highest
good.. also worldly learning, which many Christians incorrectly abhor.. those
who hold such an opinion are stupid and ignorant. They want everyone to be
just like themselves, so that the general failing will hide their own"
 
 
--
Vasos Panagiotopoulos panix.com/~vjp2/vasos.htm
---{Nothing herein constitutes advice. Everything fully disclaimed.}---
Jerry Peters <jerry@example.invalid>: Aug 14 06:18PM


> In theory, the Neutral and the Ground should be at equal potential - thereby avoiding false trips - as that is what the GF device is looking for - current going to Ground (or somewhere), not Neutral. If the Ground and Neutral are not at equal potential - there may be something for the GF device to detect.
 
> Peter Wieck
> Melrose Park, PA
 
This make no sense, the GFCI doesn't care about the ground wire, it
measures the difference in current between the 2 supply wires.
 
Look up a datasheet for the LM1851 IC, it will show sample circuits
for a GFCI, there's no connection to the ground wire at all. In fact
you can use a GFCI on an ungrounded circuit and it's still functional.
Brian Gregory <void-invalid-dead-dontuse@email.invalid>: Aug 14 08:46PM +0100

On 11/08/2023 23:43, Carlos E.R. wrote:
>> limit and a little bit of extra harmonic content pushed it over the edge?
 
> That incorrect wiring, as plotted, doesn't increase the residual current
> even one mA. There has to be something else.
 
I may be confused.
What do you mean by protector?
 
 
 
--
Brian Gregory (in England).
dplatt@coop.radagast.org (Dave Platt): Aug 14 04:02PM -0700

In article <ubdr64$2duqe$1@dont-email.me>,
>for - current going to Ground (or somewhere), not Neutral. If the Ground
>and Neutral are not at equal potential - there may be something for the
>GF device to detect.
 
That's almost exactly backwards, in practice.
 
When the system is in use (that is, when the Hot line is drawing
current), the Neutral and Ground wires are at the same potential
*ONLY* at points where they are actually bonded together - that is, at
the panel or sub-panel or transformer.
 
At other points (for example, at the outlet) they won't be at the same
potential. They can't be, because the neutral wire is carrying
current and has non-zero resistance, and thus has a significant
voltage drop between the outlet and the panel. The protective-ground
wire won't be carrying current, and thus has no voltage drop between
the outlet and the panel.
 
So, if a GFI considered "ground and neutral wires are not at equal
potential" to be a fault condition, it would trip every time somebody
turned on a light or appliance.
 
If you want to see this demonstrated, it's not difficult to do, if
you have an AC voltmeter with properly-shrouded insulated test leads.
Using one half of a standard outlet, measure the voltage between the
neutral and ground contacts. If nothing on that circuit is drawing
current, it should read 0 volts, or within noise-factor of that.
 
Then, plug a 15-amp space heater into the other half of that outlet,
and turn it on. You'll almost certainly see a significant voltage
develop between ground and neutral, caused by the current flowing
from the outlet back to the panel through the neutral wire. I'd
expect something on the order of a volt or so to show up on
the meter.
 
If you don't see a voltage drop between ground and neutral under
these conditions, it may very well mean that your outlet is
mis-wired, and has ground and neutral connected together at
the outlet... which is a definite no-no.
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 13 updates in 3 topics

Zaghadka <zaghadka@hotmail.com>: Aug 12 11:51AM -0500


>> It's already too late. Pandora has opened the box. There's no putting it
>> back in.
 
>Be afraid. Be very afraid.
 
I wouldn't go that far, but standard human stupidity is gonna make this
veeery interesting.
 
--
Zag
 
No one ever said on their deathbed, 'Gee, I wish I had
spent more time alone with my computer.' ~Dan(i) Bunten
bruce bowser <bruce2bowser@gmail.com>: Aug 13 07:37AM -0700

On Thursday, August 10, 2023 at 2:43:50 PM UTC-4, micky wrote:
> or moderately complicated computer programs, black boxes maybe, but not
> AI.
 
> What say you?
 
Being a person with a polly sci major and Army ROTC background in college (along with union electrical construction school), my understanding of AI however, came from talk radio (both politically leftist and rightist).
 
I heard rightist Hugh Hewitt say something about teaching law school during the day and how someone put a reading, writing version of AI in front of a California state bar exam lawyer certification test and it did much better than several of its human counterparts. I guess that's around the time when AI became all the talk.
Cursitor Doom <cd@notformail.com>: Aug 12 07:36PM +0100

Gentlemen,
 
Whilst trying to discover why there was no audio output from a 4W amp
board, I noticed there was only 0.6V on the supply pin of the audio
output IC concerned. There should have been 13.6V. This pin was fed
via a 1 ohm 1/4W resistor. DC voltage measurements showed there was
13.6V on one side of this resistor and 0.6V on the other! Clearly
something amiss here, I thought. So it must have gone open circuit.
However, there's not the slghtest sign of any phsyical damage even
under high magnification, whatsoever to it: none at all. Prior
experience has always taught me such resistors burn out in an obvious
way which is dead easy to spot. Not this one. I'm just wondering how
unusual this is and if anyone else has encountered such an issue with
a resistor. Here's a photo. The resistor in question is the one right
next to the largest electrolytic. There it is, looking all innocent
like butter wouldn't melt, yet it's caused me a massively
disproportionate amount of head-scratching, the little shit.
 
https://disk.yandex.com/i/dE9o0lh937qdrg
 
When I get that out of circuit.... just you wait....
liz@poppyrecords.invalid.invalid (Liz Tuddenham): Aug 12 09:03PM +0100

> disproportionate amount of head-scratching, the little shit.
 
> https://disk.yandex.com/i/dE9o0lh937qdrg
 
> When I get that out of circuit.... just you wait....
 
Micro crack in the solder?
 
 
--
~ Liz Tuddenham ~
(Remove the ".invalid"s and add ".co.uk" to reply)
www.poppyrecords.co.uk
Cursitor Doom <cd@notformail.com>: Aug 12 09:08PM +0100

On Sat, 12 Aug 2023 21:03:18 +0100, liz@poppyrecords.invalid.invalid
(Liz Tuddenham) wrote:
 
 
>> https://disk.yandex.com/i/dE9o0lh937qdrg
 
>> When I get that out of circuit.... just you wait....
 
>Micro crack in the solder?
 
It'd have to be a pico crack given the hi-mag examination I gave it
and found nothing suspicious.
Trevor Wilson <trevor@rageaudio.com.au>: Aug 13 08:20AM +1000

On 13/08/2023 4:36 am, Cursitor Doom wrote:
> disproportionate amount of head-scratching, the little shit.
 
> https://disk.yandex.com/i/dE9o0lh937qdrg
 
> When I get that out of circuit.... just you wait....
 
**Many years of experience has taught me to suspect low value (<47 Ohms)
resistors and high value (>100k) resistors. Both types can fail with
little or no visible evidence. Cracked carbon types are the ones that
are problematic, as metal film types seem to be far more reliable.
 
--
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
www.avast.com
dplatt@coop.radagast.org (Dave Platt): Aug 12 04:12PM -0700

In article <ujpfdilc78ahgovbssjign75rhgtvat0jh@4ax.com>,
 
>>Micro crack in the solder?
 
>It'd have to be a pico crack given the hi-mag examination I gave it
>and found nothing suspicious.
 
Possibly a bad wave-soldering job? I've heard of cases where
bad/incorrect solder or flux caused a mostly-failed joint... the
solder flowed up over the component lead, formed a decent-looking
meniscus, but didn't actually bond to the lead properly. The
lead could eventually crack away from the solder _inside_ the
joint, leading to an open circuit which is invisible to the eye.
 
You might want to try solder-sucking away the existing joints,
re-fluxing, and re-soldering, and see if that fixes it... although
I'm not sure if this would teach you anything more than you'd
learn by just unsoldering the resistor and measuring it out of
circuit.
 
An internal crack in the resistor is probably more likely, though.
liz@poppyrecords.invalid.invalid (Liz Tuddenham): Aug 13 07:34AM +0100

> learn by just unsoldering the resistor and measuring it out of
> circuit.
 
> An internal crack in the resistor is probably more likely, though.
 
If it were a large heavy component, I would look for circular cracks in
the rings of solder around the terminals; the solder blob in two parts
with one attached to the pin and the other as a circle surrounding it.
This used to happen mainly where the dip-soldering conveyor was vibrated
to shake off solder splashes and mass of the large component stressed
the cooling solder blob. The centre of the blob was cooled by the pin,
the periphery was cooled by the track and the last bit to solidify was
stressed into a ring of 'dry joint', which later failed almost
invisibly.
 
I can't imagine that happening to anything as small as a surface-mount
resistor, but include this historic information for the benefit of
anyone repairing through-hole boards with large heavy components.
 
--
~ Liz Tuddenham ~
(Remove the ".invalid"s and add ".co.uk" to reply)
www.poppyrecords.co.uk
The Real Bev <bashley101@gmail.com>: Aug 12 02:17PM -0700

On 8/8/23 8:03 AM, John Robertson wrote:
 
> Change batteries once a year on your birthday - you'd possibly be
> surprised how many disposible battery devices you have roaming around
> your home.
 
I've had Kirkland, Duracell and Maxell batteries leak IN THEIR ORIGINAL
CONTAINERS as well as in rarely-used equipment years under their printed
expiration dates. I returned the Duracells and Kirklands and bought
Energizers -- which claim to replace any equipment damaged by Energizer
leakage. So far I haven't seen a single one leak.
 
 
--
Cheers, Bev
"Anonymity is a shield from the tyranny of the majority."
-- U.S. Supreme Court, McIntyre v Ohio Elections,1995
Brian Gregory <void-invalid-dead-dontuse@email.invalid>: Aug 13 02:17AM +0100

On 08/08/2023 16:34, Bob F wrote:
> I have never had anything damaged by NiCd or NiMh battery leakage.
 
> Has anyone else?
 
Only when accidentally over charged at a fairly high current for much
too long a time.
 
--
Brian Gregory (in England).
Brian Gregory <void-invalid-dead-dontuse@email.invalid>: Aug 13 02:20AM +0100


> Most TV remotes have power on all the time regardless of the
> batteries. Rechargeable batteries don't last for ever. I've never
> found a type of battery that does not leak after a few years.
 
I've yet to have an Energizer Ultimate Lithium leak.
But maybe I will one day.
 
--
Brian Gregory (in England).
Brian Gregory <void-invalid-dead-dontuse@email.invalid>: Aug 13 02:24AM +0100

On 12/08/2023 22:17, The Real Bev wrote:
> expiration dates.   I returned the Duracells and Kirklands and bought
> Energizers -- which claim to replace any equipment damaged by Energizer
> leakage.  So far I haven't seen a single one leak.
 
I believe the Energizer guarantee only applies to Energizer Max, not
other types, and probably not even Energizer MaxPlus.
 
https://www.energizer.com/about-batteries/no-leaks-guarantee
 
--
Brian Gregory (in England).
Brian Gregory <void-invalid-dead-dontuse@email.invalid>: Aug 13 02:25AM +0100

On 13/08/2023 02:24, Brian Gregory wrote:
> I believe the Energizer guarantee only applies to Energizer Max, not
> other types, and probably not even Energizer MaxPlus.
 
> https://www.energizer.com/about-batteries/no-leaks-guarantee
 
Ah ha:
<https://energizer.eu/wp-content/uploads/sites/105/2021/02/ENR1209_TermsConditions_V5HIGH.pdf>
 
--
Brian Gregory (in England).
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 1 update in 1 topic

steve1001908@outlook.com: Aug 06 01:56PM +0100


>Just curious as to how a Dot Matrix printer moves the ink from
>a storage tank to the print head. I am referring to a printer
>such as a Epson Eco Tank Printer. It is NOT Gravity!!
 
Sorptivity
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