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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 1 update in 1 topic

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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 2 updates in 2 topics

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Ynias Prencipe <ynias.prencipe1999@gmail.com>: Oct 24 08:49AM -0700


> ___________________________________________________________________________________________________
 
> contact me to : matt...@gmail.com mattosbw1(at)gmail.com
 
> ___________________________________________________________________________________________________
please Send me Solution Manual Electronics : A Systems Approach (5th Ed., Neil Storey)
"ohg...@gmail.com" <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Oct 24 08:19AM -0700

Anyone have a schematic for this amp? The distributor doesn't provide one.
 
Looking for the value of a burned resistor - R11 which I think is just used as a B+ bleeder.
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 1 update in 1 topic

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Walter <py2cwb@hotmail.com>: Oct 20 10:29AM -0700

Em segunda-feira, 7 de setembro de 2020 às 17:29:26 UTC-3, Ken Layton escreveu:
> John:
 
> Were those schematics helpful to you? Did you figure out your problem? It's been a while so I thought I would ask for a followup.
 
Hi to all of you, it's Walter PY2CWB from Brazil.
Does anyone have the BC855XLT schematic to share with me ?
I am also looking for the schematic for the BC355C unit.
My private email is on my QRZ account.
 
Thank you folks.
 
Walter.`.
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 1 update in 1 topic

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Jeroni Paul <JERONI.PAUL@terra.es>: Oct 17 10:19AM -0700

Jeroni Paul wrote:
> A secondary sympthom (maybe related) is when playback is stopped through the stop button, the sled returns home and at the end the sled gears slip some teeth because the inertia, the motor does not brake in time. BUT if playback is stopped with the stand-by button instead, it does the same without teeth slippage, because it brakes. I ran some tests shorting the switch contacts and with the Stop button the sled moves some extra millimeters due to inertia. I can't explain how the BA6296FP can stop the motor without brake as its MUTE signal is wired to Vcc.
 
 
I found this happens because when the CD stops and the sled returns home, the controller cuts power to it so fast that does not allow the driver to brake the sled motor. I have jumped the power-on signal to always active and it brakes properly. Design defect?
 
But the initial disk reading problem remains, maybe they are not related. I tried to readjust the focus bias pot and it was already right. I'm doing some tests heating the board and that seems to have some effect but will require more tests to narrow down.
 
Service manual: https://elektrotanya.com/aiwa_nsx-500_xg-500_cx-3500.pdf/download.html
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 1 update in 1 topic

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Wu Ming <wu.ming2@icloud.com >: Oct 15 12:56AM

I think Netflix will keep going. Despite showing a message two weeks ago
declaring otherwise.
 
Just in case discovered Apple TV HD sold in the 2017-2022 period are still
supported. And presumably will continue to receive updates for four more
years at least. Should be cheap to find second hand.
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 5 updates in 2 topics

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Wu Ming <wu.ming2@icloud.com >: Oct 11 11:59PM

I am asking for your wisdom about our 2012 TV. Soon Netflix, the last
functioning internet service, will stop working.
 
I can casually buy a streaming box that will become electronic waste as
soon as we will need to replace the TV with a newer one. Integrating the
same functionality.
 
Or I can judiciously buy a streaming box to last. When the TV will finally
experience a hardware issue what is the likelihood of a long lasting
repair? I don't know what may fail first. We have been using it for few
hours a day on average.
 
Thanks for sharing.
Jeroni Paul <JERONI.PAUL@terra.es>: Oct 11 05:29PM -0700

Wu Ming wrote:
> repair? I don't know what may fail first. We have been using it for few
> hours a day on average.
 
> Thanks for sharing.
 
The advantage of a box is that you can replace your TV with a dumb one, you can probably find one cheap new or used. And when the box becomes obsolete because the latest app will requiere a newer OS version you only have to replace the box. Also in my experience apps in webOS or other propietary OS become obsolete very fast, either the TV has Android or you end up with an Android box anyway.
Wu Ming <wu.ming2@icloud.com >: Oct 12 01:12AM

> you can probably find one cheap new or used. And when the box becomes
> obsolete because the latest app will requiere a newer OS version you only
> have to replace the box.
 
I am not familiar with current TVs designed without internet provided
services. A brief search returned some obscure Chinese brands, computer
displays and commercial displays.
 
> Also in my experience apps in webOS or other propietary OS become
> obsolete very fast, either the TV has Android or you end up with an Android box anyway.
 
If reference is to the TVs own OS my experience with Sony is that although
updates stopped some years ago services didn't. Netflix kept and keeps
working. For now.
 
OT: I don't understand the difference between Release date and End date in
the termination of sw updates notice from Sony. The seven years between
them are puzzling.
Bob F <bobnospam@gmail.com>: Oct 11 11:09AM -0700

On 10/11/2023 9:31 AM, Amanda Riphnykhazova wrote:
> You are absolutely right: The strip ends in two rounded forks. They were obviously joined at the end. Looking at the new one, there was originally a lengthened hole at the end to hook (a spring) onto. The bit of transparent end piece that went across the two forks is still in there somewhere.
 
> Now I have to determine whether to order a new strip for ten bucks. This is a machine that was just given to me, presumably because it didn't work, what with a broken encoding strip in there! It looks easy to install but very difficult to get to.
 
> This unit has a dreadful reputation for reliability and for giving endless stupid error messages instead of working properly. And HP's tech support (or lack thereof) shows me that the manufacturer won't stand behind his product. Does anyone think doing all this work to get this thing working is worth the bother? Am I setting myself up for a lifetime of endless stupid error messages? To add insult to injury, I was given this while throwing away a hitherto reliable Canon MX860: which that manufacturer WOULD stand behind and which always worked properly until it started to give out B200 ("This unit has died") error messages
 
There are lots of older printers offered free when people update windows
and cannot get it to work on the printer. So if you are using windows 8
or earlier, or are good at messing with OS problems, you should be able
to find a working printer. I currently have 2 HP all-in-ones, a B&W
(M1212NF) and a color one (MFP M177fw) on my network, and a Brother
all-in-one as a backup. Both work with my wife's Windows 10 computer
after some fiddling.
 
Freecycle has been my source for most, but Craigslist also has them in
their "Free" category often.
 
I haven't paid for "ink" for printing in years, but use them infrequently.
Amanda Riphnykhazova <licensedtoquill@gmail.com>: Oct 11 02:00PM -0700

> (M1212NF) and a color one (MFP M177fw) on my network, and a Brother
> all-in-one as a backup. Both work with my wife's Windows 10 computer
> after some fiddling.
 
I agree with you. I had 2 Pixma MX922 all in ones which I had to junk when they died, an MX960 which I had to junk when it died, and a somewhat longer-lasting older MX 860 which I decided had in fact died when it started giving the non-specific B200 error message. Canon printers were amazing but they do seem to have had a sort of planned obsolescence about them.
 
But the question is: Is the 8710 worth saving? I agree there are lots of all-in-ones out there and at the moment I dont actually have a scanner or a copier.
 
But is there a problem with this unit taking pigmented ink? Why are there so few places where after-market ink can be bought at reasonable cost?
 
Like you, I dont print very often and I also have an HP 1525nw for when I need inexpensive printing so I'd like to know, - how reliable are all the lousy reviews and should I go to all the bother of pulling this thing apart if it promises to give endless error messages when laboriously put together again ?
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 5 updates in 2 topics

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Amanda Riphnykhazova <licensedtoquill@gmail.com>: Oct 10 11:31AM -0700

my printer has jammed and I need a service manual to see where an unconnected end of a 3mm wide transparent strip needs to be connected to. It seems to go from the left to somewhere behind the print head.
 
or does anyone know what HP's internal reference number is for the 8710?
Amanda Riphnykhazova <licensedtoquill@gmail.com>: Oct 10 11:46AM -0700

On Tuesday, October 10, 2023 at 2:31:37 PM UTC-4, Amanda Riphnykhazova wrote:
> my printer has jammed and I need a service manual to see where an unconnected end of a 3mm wide transparent strip needs to be connected to. It seems to go from the left to somewhere behind the print head.
 
Sorry, to explain, it is called a timing strip and the right end that has come out can be sorta seen at 7.26 on https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rOQ1qKCyz5o
 
I assume installation can be seen in the service manual?
legg <legg@nospam.magma.ca>: Oct 10 07:07PM -0400

On Tue, 10 Oct 2023 11:46:22 -0700 (PDT), Amanda Riphnykhazova
>> my printer has jammed and I need a service manual to see where an unconnected end of a 3mm wide transparent strip needs to be connected to. It seems to go from the left to somewhere behind the print head.
 
>Sorry, to explain, it is called a timing strip and the right end that has come out can be sorta seen at 7.26 on https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rOQ1qKCyz5o
 
>I assume installation can be seen in the service manual?
 
If there's no physical detail on the detached end, to register with
hook or pinch detail, it may be broken - check for missing piece
remaining in the area. Unusual for this to break. Sometimes needs
cleaning . . .
 
RL
Amanda Riphnykhazova <licensedtoquill@gmail.com>: Oct 11 09:31AM -0700

You are absolutely right: The strip ends in two rounded forks. They were obviously joined at the end. Looking at the new one, there was originally a lengthened hole at the end to hook (a spring) onto. The bit of transparent end piece that went across the two forks is still in there somewhere.
 
Now I have to determine whether to order a new strip for ten bucks. This is a machine that was just given to me, presumably because it didn't work, what with a broken encoding strip in there! It looks easy to install but very difficult to get to.
 
This unit has a dreadful reputation for reliability and for giving endless stupid error messages instead of working properly. And HP's tech support (or lack thereof) shows me that the manufacturer won't stand behind his product. Does anyone think doing all this work to get this thing working is worth the bother? Am I setting myself up for a lifetime of endless stupid error messages? To add insult to injury, I was given this while throwing away a hitherto reliable Canon MX860: which that manufacturer WOULD stand behind and which always worked properly until it started to give out B200 ("This unit has died") error messages
Jeroni Paul <JERONI.PAUL@terra.es>: Oct 10 11:03AM -0700

I am looking at the CD player part of an Aiwa CX-N500Z (NSX-500), many times does not focus when a disk is loaded, but retrying sometimes starts and plays the disk perfectly all the way.
 
I have swapped the entire optical pickup assy from an identical working unit and the problem is in the drive electronics, not the pickup. Both pickups work fine one one unit and both fail the same way in the other.
Mostly Sony parts, pickup: KSS-210A, ICs: CXA1081A, CXA1082BQ, CXD1167Q, BA6296FP.
 
I have scoped some signals, when it its trying to focus the FOCUS-OK signal from CXA1081A activates momentarily but nothing happens, this should trigger the servos and start of spindle motor. Sometimes the focus locks and disk starts to spin and suddently loses focus for no obvious reason. However while playing it does not lose focus easily, buttons FF or REW behave fine, but jumping tracks sometimes cause it to lose focus.
 
A secondary sympthom (maybe related) is when playback is stopped through the stop button, the sled returns home and at the end the sled gears slip some teeth because the inertia, the motor does not brake in time. BUT if playback is stopped with the stand-by button instead, it does the same without teeth slippage, because it brakes. I ran some tests shorting the switch contacts and with the Stop button the sled moves some extra millimeters due to inertia. I can't explain how the BA6296FP can stop the motor without brake as its MUTE signal is wired to Vcc.
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 2 updates in 1 topic

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Brad Johnson <johnsonsatake@gmail.com>: Oct 09 04:32PM -0700

Jeff Layman wrote:
> > I have a 6-months old Fantasia ceiling fan (mains powered, with 6-speed
> > reversible dc motor) which is causing a lot of interference on MW.
> FM
 
you can try and put a AC line filter as close to the device as you can , 3 wire AC feeding is better ....
DC motor may need bypass caps , which might be a problem for the 6-speed driver....
The clamp on fairrite or a core should be on everything in a ham home, and all overhead AC drop lines IMO.
the type 75 cores are only about $1 and go after all the noise below 1mhz ( that's is where most of it comes from )
you may be able to use the AC line filters on DC if amp rating is enough ( leave a little margin here... )
tips from a solar-powered ham radio operator.
pics on my QRZ site Ko6kL
Jeff Layman <Jeff@invalid.invalid>: Oct 10 10:40AM +0100

On 10/10/2023 00:32, Brad Johnson wrote:
> you may be able to use the AC line filters on DC if amp rating is enough ( leave a little margin here... )
> tips from a solar-powered ham radio operator.
> pics on my QRZ site Ko6kL
 
LOL!
 
I posted the original query almost 9 years ago! It was fixed a few days
later by using a delta suppression capacitor and ferrite ring large
enough to take all the mains leads.
 
--
 
Jeff
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 2 updates in 1 topic

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micky <NONONOmisc07@fmguy.com>: Oct 01 08:10PM -0400

In sci.electronics.repair, on Fri, 22 Sep 2023 17:11:54 -0400, ? Mighty
>>> would tire me out quickly when I listen to people talk.
>> Thanks. I'll check the settings again but I dont' think it has Loudness.
 
>"Loudness" is a button on many stereo system.
 
I know but I checked and I was right. This one doesn't have it.
"😎 Mighty Wannabe ✅" <@.>: Oct 01 09:51PM -0400

On 10/1/2023 8:10 PM, micky wrote:
>>> Thanks. I'll check the settings again but I dont' think it has Loudness.
>> "Loudness" is a button on many stereo system.
> I know but I checked and I was right. This one doesn't have it.
 
 
If you have "Radio" preset, then use it. It is close to "Telephone", but
"Telephone" cuts out both the high and low frequencies. It's perfect for
listening to human voice.
 
These are the screen grabs of the equalizer in my computer. I have
posted them to a free image hosting site:
 
"Telephone" preset:
 
https://ibb.co/SmhMdWh
 
 
"Radio" preset:
 
https://ibb.co/f8r8qNv
 
 
 
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