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<nospam@ntlworld.com>: Feb 26 05:05PM On Sat, 25 Feb 2023 02:23:20 -0500 > you watch it like I did, not knowing where he's going, so here is the > link.   > https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S2UfglFeOH8   That's been done so many times before. Hot staplers are £25 on Amazon. Spot welders need a fairly high and repeatable clamping force (and a timer) to make good welds, a wonky bit of plywood isn't a good choice for this - you'd do better using your MIG/TIG welder to make button welds.

Sam Plusnet <not@home.com>: Feb 26 08:56PM On 25-Feb-23 8:40, alan_m wrote:   > It appears that in the USA anyone that does DIY has a fully equipped > workshop in a workspace the size of a large barn.   Anyone who does DIY - on YouTube - has a fully equipped...   -- Sam Plusnet

micky <NONONOmisc07@fmguy.com>: Feb 26 03:56PM -0500 In alt.home.repair, on Sun, 26 Feb 2023 17:05:25 +0000, >timer) to make good welds, a wonky bit of plywood isn't a good choice >for this - you'd do better using your MIG/TIG welder to make button >welds.   But -sob- I don't have a MIG/TIG welder. more sobbing. I do have a broken microwave.   I think HD sells both wonky and nonwonky plywood. I'll ask for nonwonky.

Sam Plusnet <not@home.com>: Feb 26 08:58PM On 25-Feb-23 13:57, Max Demian wrote: > the whole thing would have to be disassembled to replace. It hasn't so > far, and I imagine it could be dangerous to take it apart, with high > voltages being retained.   The lamp in our microwave is just the same, but as it has carried on working for the last 40-odd years, it will probably carry on for a few more.   -- Sam Plusnet

Sam Plusnet <not@home.com>: Feb 26 09:02PM On 26-Feb-23 8:39, Andy Burns wrote:   > I blame low caffeine levels   It's a scourge, and the NHS seem to ignore this terrible condition.   -- Sam Plusnet

micky <NONONOmisc07@fmguy.com>: Feb 26 04:06PM -0500 In alt.home.repair, on Sun, 26 Feb 2023 08:30:51 +0000, Andy Burns   >Yes, people have been killed using high voltage to make Lichtenberg >figures in wood with high voltage ... but what I saw was not that, >rather high current heating an element red hot to "brand" wood.   I was going to ask what he was getting at. Thanks for pointing out the difference. I watched a vidoe of Lichtenberg etc, and it looked a lot more dangerous and came with many warnings. There was also a suggestion to make Lichtenburg tattoos. They said thay'd tried it but it was too hard because they wouldn't stop twitching.

legg <legg@nospam.magma.ca>: Feb 27 10:05AM -0500 On Sat, 25 Feb 2023 02:23:20 -0500, micky <NONONOmisc07@fmguy.com> wrote:   >bulb (which they don't want you to do. Maybe you can't even get a >matching bulb.) But all this is for years from now if/when the bulb >burns out.   They should make lamps and fuses more easily replaceable. Platter replacement is too exxpensive - should be made available retail, where ovens are sold.   Microswitches in the door will last longer if the microwave is paused or stopped before opening the door. Too many people use a door pull to terminate cooking.   RL

Tim+ <tim.downie@gmail.com>: Feb 27 04:35PM > Microswitches in the door will last longer if the microwave > is paused or stopped before opening the door. Too many people > use a door pull to terminate cooking.   Well after 35 years the switches are still working well in mine despite years of abuse.   Are bulbs really that hard to replace in modern machine once you've whipped the cover off or are folk too feart to peek under the cover these days?   Tim   -- Please don't feed the trolls

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Bob F <bobnospam@gmail.com>: Feb 25 09:03AM -0800 On 2/24/2023 11:33 PM, Rob H wrote: >> searched on youtube, and it was about 20 lines down.   >> This is why we don't toss out broken microwaves:   > Yea, like most people has a lathe, a welder machine and cutting discs.   Yep. Got 'em.   Also, a couple old microwave transformers.

SteveW <steve@walker-family.me.uk>: Feb 25 06:03PM On 25/02/2023 08:40, alan_m wrote: > company would be proud to own.   > It appears that in the USA anyone that does DIY has a fully equipped > workshop in a workspace the size of a large barn.   I don't have a lot of space, but I do have a lathe, milling machine, pillar drill, welders and a whole lot of other stuff as it happens.   The copper probes that he made for the spot welder, could have been made with hand tools, they would just not be as neat and it would have taken longer.

micky <NONONOmisc07@fmguy.com>: Feb 25 05:48PM -0500 In alt.home.repair, on Sat, 25 Feb 2023 10:28:24 -0500, Retirednoguilt >underside of the turntable. I once had one of those spontaneously crack >apart and the replacement part (plus shipping) seemed disproportionately >expensive for a small piece of molded plastic. Good to have a spare.   All our townhouses were alike when built, and when my neighbor remodeled I even took the lid from the toilet tank, in case I ever break mine. I don't know where I put it.   And I had a cardboard cylinder of toilet bowl cleaner in the cabinet under the sink and the fumes damaged the hinges, so the door sits open an inch all the time, so when someone else remodeled, I took spare hinges.   When someone else got a new furnace, I took the whole oil pump, sprayer, transformer, electrodes, and the electric control box. I've used the transformer and the control box to replace ones that failed. (Later I found out that they sell universal transformer replacements and probably control boxes that will fit, but this way I have the part right there, and free.) And early on, when someone threw out the folding, stiff plastic shower stall door, it was too long for me to have a nice place to put it, so I asked my girlfriend to store it. She had a really big basement with extra-high ceiling, so her prior husband could lift weights. We broke up a year later and I'll bet she still has it, 30 years later, and doesn't know what it is or where she got it.   Meanwhile, my door is still in good condition. I thought the solvents would evaporate and the door would become brittle. Maybe it has but I'm very careful.

micky <NONONOmisc07@fmguy.com>: Feb 25 10:36PM -0500 In alt.home.repair, on Sat, 25 Feb 2023 07:33:39 +0000, Rob H   >Yea, like most people has a lathe, a welder machine and cutting discs.   He's using a drill press, and I have a cheap device that holds a hand electric drill and turns it into a drill press. There are even cheaper things that just hold the electric drill in place. I did think about buying a cheap drill press, but cmoputers interfered and I don't spend as much time doing active things anymore. Instead I sit a this desk getttng fat.   Plus I have a double grinding wheel** and you could just hold the rod up against the grindstone and carefully rotate it in your fingers. After the end is tapered, cut it to the right length. And I have an angle grinder that he used. And I think maybe you could even just use an electric sander??? **My grinding wheel was very cheap. It is just a bracket with an axlet that holds a grindstone or wire wheel at each each. I added a left-over motor I got somewhere, that already had a pully, and I bought belt and mouted it all to a board, which is clamed to my workbench.   The angle grinder has cutting and other discs.   I have a very cheap set of taps and dies, under $10, although probably not one that big. Maybe one could use speed nuts if they make them that big. Maybe one could just thick nails, if they woudln't overheat.   I don't think he used a welder. In fact he made one.   Plus it's an excuse to buy more tools and that's always good.

Adrian Caspersz <email@here.invalid>: Feb 26 06:13AM On 25/02/2023 07:23, micky wrote: > More good and bad about my new and old microwaves.   <snip>   He also > uses it to burn decorations into wood.   Sadly some individuals have been killed attempting this.   -- Adrian C

Andy Burns <usenet@andyburns.uk>: Feb 26 08:30AM Adrian Caspersz wrote:   > micky wrote:   >> He also uses it to burn decorations into wood.   > Sadly some individuals have been killed attempting this.   Yes, people have been killed using high voltage to make Lichtenberg figures in wood with high voltage ... but what I saw was not that, rather high current heating an element red hot to "brand" wood.

Andy Burns <usenet@andyburns.uk>: Feb 26 08:39AM Andy Burns wrote:   > using high voltage to make Lichtenberg figures in wood with high voltage ^^^^^^^^^^^^ ^^^^^^^^^^^^   I blame low caffeine levels

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Mitch Chauvin <michel.arrigoni@gmail.com>: Feb 25 08:33AM -0800 Le mercredi 14 octobre 2020 à 00:44:55 UTC+2, Runner a écrit : > fragile that I broke it so even if I got it going again, it would be to > only salvage the songs. Thanks in advance for any help. Just want to > get its drive recognized by the PC if possible.   I did a video tutorial to disassemble and repair the on/off tactil button if it may help ... : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yHWXsiJXIIc

Mitch Chauvin <michel.arrigoni@gmail.com>: Feb 25 08:34AM -0800 Le samedi 5 décembre 2020 à 15:03:17 UTC+1, Transition Zone a écrit :   > > My sympathies, but don't use anything on flash for permanent storage. > I wonder if manufacturers of late model MP3 players are security conscious enough to cause all memory to disappear once the device is opened. > (Like, maybe when Apple phones are 'steamed' open). I did a tutorial video for repairing the tactil button. You can see how to open the player. Do not hesitate to contact me if you need more information. Enjoy : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yHWXsiJXIIc

micky <NONONOmisc07@fmguy.com>: Feb 25 02:23AM -0500 More good and bad about my new and old microwaves.   Good, the door is much easier to see through. I can actually see what's going on, if it's bubbling or not.   The light bulb costs iirc 15 to 20 dollars. It's a whole assembly, and since I don't want to keep the thing in parts for a week, I'll probably give in and buy it in advance, instead of trying to replace the broken bulb (which they don't want you to do. Maybe you can't even get a matching bulb.) But all this is for years from now if/when the bulb burns out.     Meanwhile I came across a video of what to do with the old microwave.   Take my word, you will like this, or at least within a few minutes you'll know it's not your style, and I think you'll like it more if you watch it like I did, not knowing where he's going, so here is the link.   https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S2UfglFeOH8 This Is Why We Don't Toss Out Broken Microwaves | Remake Projects Totally Handy 1.37M subscribers   M is for million?   If you really want to know what it's about before you watch it, scroll down until you see the abridged version (without video).                                                           Take out the power transformer, cut off one end of the secondary winding. Punch the remainder of the winding through to the other side, leaving an open area as big as the winding had been. Take some heavy gauge wire. He didnn't say the gauge but the copper was about 1/2" in diameter. Loop it into the open space until it's full, 3 loops, and then he attaches 2 different things to the ends of the two wires. One is a cute curvy thing made with wire something like a thick wire hanger. He turns it on, it gets red hot, and he burns it into the car bumper cover he is repairing, to splice one side of a cut to the other. He also uses it to burn decorations into wood.   Then he toook another transformer, did the new secondary the same way, and connected its wires to thick, pointed but short metal "probes" he made, mounted on arms, one fixed and one that moved up and down, with enough reach to allow one to slide sheet metal between them, and he had a spot welder for sheet metal. Worked very well.   Ah, it was easy to find. I just opened Firefox History and then searched on youtube, and it was about 20 lines down.   This is why we don't toss out broken microwaves:

Rob H <rob@despammer.com>: Feb 25 07:33AM On 25/02/2023 07:23, micky wrote:   > Ah, it was easy to find. I just opened Firefox History and then > searched on youtube, and it was about 20 lines down.   > This is why we don't toss out broken microwaves:   Yea, like most people has a lathe, a welder machine and cutting discs.

alan_m <junk@admac.myzen.co.uk>: Feb 25 08:40AM On 25/02/2023 07:33, Rob H wrote:     > Yea, like most people has a lathe, a welder machine and cutting discs.     Like a lot of Youtube videos titled something like "DIY - make this useful widget in 15 minutes"   They often start off with manufacturing something with simple hand tools but then quickly progress to machines or tools that a large engineering company would be proud to own.   It appears that in the USA anyone that does DIY has a fully equipped workshop in a workspace the size of a large barn.   -- mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

"Brian Gaff" <brian1gaff@gmail.com>: Feb 25 12:48PM That seems a little bit niche, and rather a big lump to lug around to me. I would say that it might be better to remove the transformer, and put it in its own box and do it that way. Another use for them, according to an electronics buff, is to liberate a couple and wire them in such a way that you can get enough voltage after rectification and smoothing, to allow some of the power valves often on the market cheaply and used in RF amplification for up to 10 kw, but normally in this country at 400 wats, as its cheaper than getting the main transformer replaced. I doubt it looks very nice though. Brian   --   --: This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from... The Sofa of Brian Gaff... briang1@blueyonder.co.uk Blind user, so no pictures please Note this Signature is meaningless.! "micky" <NONONOmisc07@fmguy.com> wrote in message news:e2bjvhljv5jbpcbcp6niddr3kebcuj87u4@4ax.com...

Max Demian <max_demian@bigfoot.com>: Feb 25 01:57PM On 25/02/2023 07:23, micky wrote: > bulb (which they don't want you to do. Maybe you can't even get a > matching bulb.) But all this is for years from now if/when the bulb > burns out.   The lamp on mine is behind one of the internal grills and looks as if the whole thing would have to be disassembled to replace. It hasn't so far, and I imagine it could be dangerous to take it apart, with high voltages being retained.   Someone *did* throw out a microwave near where I live, so I retrieved the turntable and roller guide in case I break mine, as they charge about £25 (including p&p) for a replacement and the oven only cost £40.   -- Max Demian

Retirednoguilt <HapilyRetired@fakeaddress.com>: Feb 25 10:28AM -0500 On 2/25/2023 8:57 AM, Max Demian wrote:   > Someone *did* throw out a microwave near where I live, so I retrieved > the turntable and roller guide in case I break mine, as they charge > about £25 (including p&p) for a replacement and the oven only cost £40.   When our microwave needed to be replaced, I salvaged not only the turntable and roller guide, but also the plastic spindle that sits on the turntable motor's shaft and has horizontal leaves that fit into the underside of the turntable. I once had one of those spontaneously crack apart and the replacement part (plus shipping) seemed disproportionately expensive for a small piece of molded plastic. Good to have a spare.

vjp2.at@at.BioStrategist.dot.dot.com: Feb 24 05:22PM Ok, say I need a rechargeable 4v battery. What Amps likely? Any added circuitry? On the terminal.     -- Vasos Panagiotopoulos panix.com/~vjp2/vasos.htm ---{Nothing herein constitutes advice. Everything fully disclaimed.}---

ehsjr <ehsjr@verizon.net>: Feb 24 06:31PM -0500 > CRT video display terminal. I can't find the battery type online. Seems all > the manuals are truncated at chapter 5. It is discontinued and I just want > the specs. seems 4.2v Hg or 3.8v Li.   Here's a _general_ answer.   A setting holding backup battery does not need to supply a lot of current. I don't know what your device needs, but it is likely very low, perhaps not measureable with a dmm as it may draw current in pulses.   That said, there are plenty of lithium batteries you can choose from, and small voltage boost converters (look on ebay) you could use to boost to 4.2 volts.   You may not need exactly 4.2 volts - I have no idea what your device needs, other than what you posted, except that setting backup is almost always (always ?) very low current.   Ok, assuming 4.2 volts, here's where we are, so far: lithium===>boost circuit===>device   Now, you want to charge the battery. Ebay has lithium cell charger/protector circuits. Now your circuit looks like this: (view in fixed font) lithium=+=>boost circuit===>device | chg/pr==+   In case the view is "scrambled" you'll connect the charge/protect (chg/pr in the diagram) to the same battery terminals that the boost circuit connects to.   Ok, that's the general idea - using lithium, lithium charge/protection circuit and boost (or buck/boost) converter. You need to know what you're doing with lithium batteries, how to protect them etc, and how to properly connect to your 2621A.   Good luck. Ed

pablo gago <pablogago82@gmail.com>: Feb 24 03:14PM -0800 > miguel angel quiza llego un poco tarde pero hace poco el servicio tecnico m envio x mail un pdf q he imprimido d la urei 1601 es el tocho con todas las especificaciones d piezas y conexiones hola que tal aun tienes ese pdf?

three_jeeps <jjhudak@gmail.com>: Feb 24 09:30AM -0800 This TV is showing all the signs of a TCON or TAB failure. The RHS of the screen exhibits a combination of various issues: ghosting images, duplicated images, solarized sections on the screen, what looks like 'interlaced lines' on portions of the RHS, and darkened areas. Initially, the problems would clear themselves after the TV was on for 2-3 min, then the time got longer, e.g. 20 mins. Now it is constant. I removed the back and cleaned & reseated the 4 flex ribbon cables at the TCON board which did not solve the problem. The ribbon cables go off to the LCD screen which I could not access. It appears that I have to disassemble more of the TV to access the TAB areas. (not obvious what all needs to be disassembled - comments?)   Assuming I get access to the TAB areas, how to repair them? Googling turns up putting a padded 'shim' between the TAB and the frame, effectively pressing the contacts together. Another approach is to use a hot air gun and pressure to rebond it. Not clear what to use to put pressure on the entire length of the TAB area. So my questions are: 1 - ways to diagnose the problem 2 - how to disassemble the set to access the TAB area 3 - best way to repair the TAB if in fact that is the problem Any advice from ppl that have wrestled with the set is appreciated. J

three_jeeps <jjhudak@gmail.com>: Feb 24 09:12AM -0800 > -- > Vasos Panagiotopoulos panix.com/~vjp2/vasos.htm > ---{Nothing herein constitutes advice. Everything fully disclaimed.}---   The 'mildew' you are referring to is more likely to be 'CRT Cataracts' - a condition where the safety glass (screen) that is bonded/laminated to the CRT begins to degrade resulting in white spots that are often mistaken for mildew. A fairly common problem that affects CRTs mfg in the 60s through 80's.   One way to clean up the face of the CRT is to remove the safety glass. There are various methods suggested that include using a thin wire placed between the CRT face and the safety glass, and using a sawing motion move over the entire CRT face, effectively cutting off the safety glass. Variations of this approach include heating the safety glass with a heat gun, heating the wire, etc. Google CRT cataracts and you will probably find lots of ways to remove the glass. Some are better than others. It is often difficult to remove the remaining glue on the CRT face.   Not clear what you are attempting to do with the RPi and serial line. Do you want to replace the MSDOS PC with a RPi and have it talk on a TCP/IP network? If you just want to move bits around, you may want to look at SLIP (serial line interface protocol).

vjp2.at@at.BioStrategist.dot.dot.com: Feb 24 05:20PM In <651c793c-2bf2-4e79-8801-540e2c72d6e2n@googlegroups.com> by three_jeeps <jjhudak@gmail.com> on Fri, 24 Feb 2023 12:12:19 we perused: *+-On Friday, February 24, 2023 at 9:12:09???AM UTC-5, vjp...@at.biostrategist.dot.dot.com wrote: *+-> I wonder if I get an rs232-usb connector, and port the .SYS terminal *+-> driver (I recoded in assembler but in 1985), I should be able to get a razpie *+-> to run. Question how I would network if it is MSDOS. 1985-95 my HP2621a had *+-> an 80186 Ampro 2210 MSDOS-generic computer on it with 5.25" disks and 10MB *+-> hard dirve. (Should still work.) Worked quite well, still own it. The glue *+-> holding the monitor shield has corrupted, looking like mildew, but I am told *+-> all I have to do is scrape it off. Just a stupid nostalgia ego thing. *+-> *+-> *+-> *+-> -- *+-> Vasos Panagiotopoulos panix.com/~vjp2/vasos.htm *+-> ---{Nothing herein constitutes advice. Everything fully disclaimed.}---   *+-The 'mildew' you are referring to is more likely to be 'CRT Cataracts' - a condition where the safety glass (screen) that is bonded/laminated to the CRT begins to degrade resulting in white spots that are often mistaken for mildew. A fairly common problem that affects CRTs mfg in the 60s through 80's.   *+-One way to clean up the face of the CRT is to remove the safety glass. There are various methods suggested that include using a thin wire placed between the CRT face and the safety glass, and using a sawing motion move over the entire CRT face, effectively cutting off the safety glass. Variations of this approach include heating the safety glass with a heat gun, heating the wire, etc. Google CRT cataracts and you will probably find lots of ways to remove the glass. Some are better than others. It is often difficult to remove the remaining glue on the CRT face.   Yes, exactly.   *+-Not clear what you are attempting to do with the RPi and serial line. Do you want to replace the MSDOS PC with a RPi and have it talk on a TCP/IP network? If you just want to move bits around, you may want to look at SLIP (serial line interface protocol).   Yes, as well. I had used dosPPP on MS DOS 6.22, would it work on DOS 3?   I don't mind keeping the Ampro, it can dial out and print. I just need to fix the parallel printer ribbon cable.   But I was considering connecting to a home network. (I am moving and dreaming of all these projects insemi-retirement.)   Thanks for being someoen who knew exactly what I was referring to. THat alone lifted my spirits.   -- Vasos Panagiotopoulos panix.com/~vjp2/vasos.htm ---{Nothing herein constitutes advice. Everything fully disclaimed.}---

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vjp2.at@at.BioStrategist.dot.dot.com: Feb 24 02:52PM Looking to identify the 4v battery used to backup settings on 1980 HP2621A CRT video display terminal. I can't find the battery type online. Seems all the manuals are truncated at chapter 5. It is discontinued and I just want the specs. seems 4.2v Hg or 3.8v Li.     -- Vasos Panagiotopoulos panix.com/~vjp2/vasos.htm ---{Nothing herein constitutes advice. Everything fully disclaimed.}---

steve1001908@outlook.com: Feb 24 03:15PM On Fri, 24 Feb 2023 14:52:31 -0000 (UTC), >CRT video display terminal. I can't find the battery type online. Seems all >the manuals are truncated at chapter 5. It is discontinued and I just want >the specs. seems 4.2v Hg or 3.8v Li.   Hg is bad for marketing. It was probably discontinued when everybody found out that mercury (Hg) was a dangerous poison.

vjp2.at@at.BioStrategist.dot.dot.com: Feb 24 02:08PM I have a 1980 device (HP2621a terminal) with a now discontinued battery which retained settings while off. I am wondering if there isn't ome sort of continuously recharging (when on) battery that could replace this?   Also, for fiber optic telephonebackup as, thanks to Murphy's Law, the batteries are never functional when there is an actual power outage.       -- Vasos Panagiotopoulos panix.com/~vjp2/vasos.htm ---{Nothing herein constitutes advice. Everything fully disclaimed.}---

Dan Purgert <dan@djph.net>: Feb 24 02:51PM -----BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE----- Hash: SHA512   > battery which retained settings while off. I am wondering if there > isn't ome sort of continuously recharging (when on) battery that could > replace this?   I'd hazard it's not an impossible task to add that in place of the original primary cell battery; space might be a concern though.     > Also, for fiber optic telephonebackup as, thanks to Murphy's Law, the > batteries are never functional when there is an actual power outage.   Test the UPS on the same cycle as you test your smoke detectors. Replace batteries as needed.     -----BEGIN PGP SIGNATURE-----   iQIzBAEBCgAdFiEE3asj+xn6fYUcweBnbWVw5UznKGAFAmP4zyQACgkQbWVw5Uzn KGD21RAAjOHU1/3n9W+RBNzxNg9ftbHBAQxffHDaSERCVZUVr152HuPyWi1fhBNf ngTvaQsV4t4I8zlLUo2nz2ZGUGmWTjK1gCo3jN+s4UiXAwb85ipeRn7s/KNt6Qjk dSyKoDMGwzGrykbO/du3aXd4sly8tr9zhZP77RUqFm21tepoAerorqI+5pnoFkBi XJ+1lg4Z2m9LRgS+/O4zbqx640bdWo0yx6QMeCoJJdCbc8qtbYM67S2XVEAzi9qQ tQLi29AqW5mvTHxwMdg82dVUT/qMuHQde7Yn7v1/prcRAmNvrAWmhEIUWBkp42uK LaRZ7avixRip6OHnuP9U6E7VctCHZ9ADh7op/RkuwjxS4PTNmXxi3K+8Ok5Afz2D 64JGHYVjAQuhOhKqSpvDM05lllD9Ibcbwu8kEwAxXlMnPMP1HsRf70hYAzWzxZa5 V0FNiHfNho+I1V0bD650SMmL5zxx3cA8gb6OUX8VNYcEgg9MDYdwwZt+s+dy1pya 3GZ5OztVeGkHdirSaW+r4PR8ZEVGmS5E7hPmgmyc7xsJD8+g0Ce1kac3VTZQ3+Ph S1noOrwUEbd0BLXx7bu1yT/WabUcF4bjacE2HuCVLy4Zwn3XCuogtcb+YOE0J57e I67EINVbIVKnCLsRzhLwN6SakUTKKryQGXLdHyJIO7UMdHwzFF8= =nzU9 -----END PGP SIGNATURE-----   -- |_|O|_| |_|_|O| Github: https://github.com/dpurgert |O|O|O| PGP: DDAB 23FB 19FA 7D85 1CC1 E067 6D65 70E5 4CE7 2860

vjp2.at@at.BioStrategist.dot.dot.com: Feb 24 02:12PM I wonder if I get an rs232-usb connector, and port the .SYS terminal driver (I recoded in assembler but in 1985), I should be able to get a razpie to run. Question how I would network if it is MSDOS. 1985-95 my HP2621a had an 80186 Ampro 2210 MSDOS-generic computer on it with 5.25" disks and 10MB hard dirve. (Should still work.) Worked quite well, still own it. The glue holding the monitor shield has corrupted, looking like mildew, but I am told all I have to do is scrape it off. Just a stupid nostalgia ego thing.       -- Vasos Panagiotopoulos panix.com/~vjp2/vasos.htm ---{Nothing herein constitutes advice. Everything fully disclaimed.}---

liz@poppyrecords.invalid.invalid (Liz Tuddenham): Feb 24 10:52AM > data it has to find the information on calibrating the meter that the manual > contains which you said you needed.   > Hope this helps.   Thank you for that reference, it seems to apply to one of the meters I have but not the other. There must have been two versions, one with manual adjustment by pre-set potentiometers and the other with auto-calibration backed up by a 'coin cell' battery.     -- ~ Liz Tuddenham ~ (Remove the ".invalid"s and add ".co.uk" to reply) www.poppyrecords.co.uk

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liz@poppyrecords.invalid.invalid (Liz Tuddenham): Feb 22 10:41PM Does anyone have the Calibration Manual (not the User Manual) for a Philips PM2518 multimeter? There is a way of calibrating it manually without connecting it to a computer, but I only have partial information about the process.     -- ~ Liz Tuddenham ~ (Remove the ".invalid"s and add ".co.uk" to reply) www.poppyrecords.co.uk

Charles Lucas <clsnowyowl@gmail.com>: Feb 23 07:54AM -0800 On Wednesday, February 22, 2023 at 4:43:05 PM UTC-6, Liz Tuddenham wrote: > ~ Liz Tuddenham ~ > (Remove the ".invalid"s and add ".co.uk" to reply) > www.poppyrecords.co.uk   As a suggestion, try the following link below:   https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1454505/Philips-Pm2517e.html   This has the full 105 page service manual for this model of meter. Calibration instructions should be included once you download the .pdf and look at the data it has to find the information on calibrating the meter that the manual contains which you said you needed.   Hope this helps.     Good Luck.     Charles Lucas

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ps129ja <ps129ja@gmail.com>: Feb 21 03:27AM -0800 time for another followup! my bondstec is the BT-101MW! granpa nukey

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"Mr. Man-wai Chang" <toylet.toylet@gmail.com>: Feb 19 12:08AM +0800 Is there an easy way to check wehther a certain PC component has eavedropping device ATTACHED? :)

Charles Lucas <clsnowyowl@gmail.com>: Feb 18 08:20AM -0800 On Saturday, February 18, 2023 at 10:09:06 AM UTC-6, Mr. Man-wai Chang wrote: > Is there an easy way to check wehther a certain PC component has > eavedropping device ATTACHED? :)   Do you mean audio or sound and listening device or a line monitoring device?

Charles Lucas <charlesandmilly@gmail.com>: Feb 17 09:28AM -0800 > > its partition alterations? > Completely scrooched, I imagine--I was trying to install Windows > afterwards, and it puked.   I had a hard drive that did this once. I came up with a resolution to the problem that may help. This resolution given below helps to reconstitute a linux system back to windows because linux and windows are not completely compatible nor interchangeable because the commands are a different language from a coding standpoint.     > > Repairable?   > > I've had trouble with LXLE in the past. Like to blame it on > > something besides my own ignorance.   I resolved the above mentioned problem raised by this poster on a similar situation by using dos 6.22 and reformatting the hard disk drive (provided the drive is actually working well- all sectors and heads are in good condition) and I did it with a SATA drive. Format in DOS 6.22 overwrites the master boot record or MBR and places the sectors in proper contiguous order. It makes it to where Windows can be reinstalled.   Windows and the computer terminal you use can help you determine whether or not you have 32 bit or 64 bit system (or you can get the technical spec's) on the processor or computer system to find out about the bit system it uses. You can also check HDD capacity, RAM, ROM, and co-processor (along with version numbers) just to be sure the firmware and other things are okay as well.   > Briarcliff Manor NY 10510   > http://electrooptical.net > http://hobbs-eo.com   Good Luck.   Charles Lucas

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Prashanth Suvarna <66d28d2842b06e19426d2dc3fc1ab83f@example.com>: Feb 16 04:45AM Pz note I hv the said board with me very possibly in working cndn.REV:C P NO:51000011-0004 9021. Pz mail if req... Thank you   -- For full context, visit https://www.electrondepot.com/repair/umax-astra-2000p-scanner-chip-nr-needed-150793-.htm

Prashanth Suvarna <66d28d2842b06e19426d2dc3fc1ab83f@example.com>: Feb 16 04:45AM Hi. Greetings from India. I don't know if my reply is relevant at this time but I Have the same board here with me except that the last numbers are 0004 9021 Pz let me know if you need this. I reckon it is in working condition as it was working last time I had used it.   -- For full context, visit https://www.electrondepot.com/repair/umax-astra-2000p-scanner-chip-nr-needed-150793-.htm

Keegan Major <keegan.major@hotmail.com>: Feb 15 05:55PM >> > Hope the information here helps. Good Luck.   >> You are replying to a post from 2020.   > I Read the date on this (original post). It was reposted this week.   Except, it was not "reposted" this week.   You might have seen it appearing in some way as "new" or "reposted", but that is because you are using the absolute worst interface for reading/accessing Usenet, the awful google groups interface.   Resurrecting a multi-year old post simply makes you look foolish, and this 'ressurection of old posts' only occurs with google groups users.

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al harper <82b4b0e9603f0455d186a4698f4c37b6@example.com>: Feb 12 09:45PM How do you get registered on this site. Registration page is screwed up!   Al - N4ida@cox.net   -- For full context, visit https://www.electrondepot.com/repair/troubleshooting-a-non-functional-smirnoff-lightning-lamp-184041-.htm

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Phil Hobbs <pcdhSpamMeSenseless@electrooptical.net>: Feb 09 01:30PM -0500 On 2023-02-09 08:10, legg wrote:   >> I really prefer machines that do as they're damn well told.   > What appens to the Windows OSs when Linux gets through with > its partition alterations?   Completely scrooched, I imagine--I was trying to install Windows afterwards, and it puked.     > Repairable?   > I've had trouble with LXLE in the past. Like to blame it on > something besides my own ignorance.   Cheers   Phil Hobbs   -- Dr Philip C D Hobbs Principal Consultant ElectroOptical Innovations LLC / Hobbs ElectroOptics Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics Briarcliff Manor NY 10510   http://electrooptical.net http://hobbs-eo.com

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