Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 8 updates in 2 topics

John-Del <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Jun 29 11:59AM -0700

I've run into a lot of >500K resistors open in SMPS "start" circuits - where an IC gets its start Vcc from the rectified mains and divided down to 2.5V with half a dozen high value resistors and one low value resistor at ground. The same arrangement was also used to monitor the output and use the divided voltage for feedback. I can't recall seeing a high value smd resistor open with low voltage across them.
 
Whenever I see any inop SMPS supply with no blown output devices, I look for these first.
 
Interestingly, I've also found these resistors can be bothered by the adhesive beneath them and read *lower* value than their printed values. When I run into a supply that drifts, I remove these resistors, clean the adhesive off the board beneath them, and reinstall them. They read on the dot after that.
Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Jun 29 06:00PM -0700

legg wrote:
 
============
Phil Allison
 
 
> >Googling tells me this is a known hazard not shared with through hole parts - has to do with the use of silver plating on top surface of the resistor being subject to sulphiding and similar air borne contaminants.
 
> As formation of sulphides is a surface phenomenon, I doubt
> it plays a role in properly reflow-soldered junctions.
 
** Never said it did.
 
As the silver layer is on TOP of the SMD chip, failure occurs at the silver to resistive element interface.
 
You would need a microscope to see evidence of it.
 
My concern is that many more of the same resistors will fail open in time.
 
 
..... Phil
Jeff Urban <jurb6006@gmail.com>: Jun 29 11:47PM -0700

Well the best thing to do is probably keep it cool and don't bend it.
 
What else ? Change them all ?
Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Jun 30 04:24AM -0700

Jeff Urban wrote:
 
=======================
 
> Well the best thing to do is probably keep it cool and don't bend it.
 
** FFS temp was never and issue nor flexing.

 
> What else ? Change them all ?
 
 
** Soon as pigs can fly...
legg <legg@nospam.magma.ca>: Jun 30 08:08AM -0400

On Mon, 29 Jun 2020 11:59:40 -0700 (PDT), John-Del <ohger1s@gmail.com>
wrote:
 
>I've run into a lot of >500K resistors open in SMPS "start" circuits - where an IC gets its start Vcc from the rectified mains and divided down to 2.5V with half a dozen high value resistors and one low value resistor at ground. The same arrangement was also used to monitor the output and use the divided voltage for feedback. I can't recall seeing a high value smd resistor open with low voltage across them.
 
>Whenever I see any inop SMPS supply with no blown output devices, I look for these first.
 
>Interestingly, I've also found these resistors can be bothered by the adhesive beneath them and read *lower* value than their printed values. When I run into a supply that drifts, I remove these resistors, clean the adhesive off the board beneath them, and reinstall them. They read on the dot after that.
 
Adhesive is used when SMDs are wave-soldered, or for inverted
or repeated reflow. All those processes require additional
skill and technical knowledge to succeed, with a reasonable
service life.
 
There are a lot of other factors influencing parasitic
terminal leakage in those cases. You'd have to measure
the part and the board, before and after cleaning, before
and after each stage of rework, to get any idea of the
leakage source.
 
Reduction of R in higher voltage applications is also associated
with tracking and bridging of the part's element and board
surfaces. All of those were affected by your simple before and
after comparison.
 
RL
tinfaz2012@gmail.com: Jun 30 04:36AM -0700

> Solution Manual Introduction to Linear Circuit Analysis and Modelling : From DC to RF (Luis Moura & Izzat Darwazeh)
> Solution Manual Embedded Systems Architecture : A Comprehensive Guide for Engineers and Programmers (Tammy Noergaard)
> Solution Manual Bioimpedance and Bioelect...
 
Please Send me Solution Manual Electronics : A Systems Approach (5th Ed., Neil Storey) or
Solution Manual Electronics : A Systems Approach (6th Ed., Neil Storey) . Thank you!
tinfaz2012@gmail.com: Jun 30 04:37AM -0700

please Send me Solution Manual Electronics : A Systems Approach (5th Ed., Neil Storey) or
Solution Manual Electronics : A Systems Approach (6th Ed., Neil Storey) if you have it. Thank you!
tinfaz2012@gmail.com: Jun 30 04:40AM -0700

Please send me Solution Manual Electronics : A Systems Approach (5th Ed., Neil Storey) or
Solution Manual Electronics : A Systems Approach (6th Ed., Neil Storey) if you have it. Thank you in advance!
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 16 updates in 3 topics

Cydrome Leader <presence@MUNGEpanix.com>: Jun 29 02:53AM

> *significantly* corrects the power factor. That does not change the
> current on the rest of the circuit to the motor, which has not been
> corrected.
 
If installed correctly it can help. You have to install it by the load.
 
Same concept as switchable power factgor correction banks installed at a
factory. It has to be near the load to reduce the distace you're pulling
empty current, lowering line voltage and regulation and wasting a bit of
power.
Jeff Urban <jurb6006@gmail.com>: Jun 28 10:19PM -0700

Alright fuck it. There is one way.
 
You "tap" the power for milliseconds but at a very high peak current which is maybe the same wattage but you have done it so fast the meter misses some of it.
 
That is the ONLY way to really beat it and I am not sure it works on non-mechanical meters.
 
You take your 300 amp pulse to feed your shit, but not every cycle. Maybe every tenth cycle. You have heard of capacitors. You cannot use 6Hz 300 amp pulses very well so you have to go to DC and let it just charge at that cycle. The more you use the more you save. However you have to generate your own sine wave. It depends on you doing that efficiently. The only way I see is with some serious class D amps, and even those are not going to be small ass Icepowers.
 
And then for all the money you spend doing that you save 10% tops. So if your bill is $200 a month you save twenty bucks. /so buy all this shit for a few hundred if you're lucky, I think you are lucky to get it all for a grand, and then your time.
 
These are not on Amazon. Building your own, fine. But if you do that, to be able to design and build it twenty bucks an hour is the bare minimum.
 
So you want to put over a grand into saving twenty bucks a month. and then the gizmo might break and there is only one person who can fix it.
 
I am pretty sure I mentioned my Uncle and cousin experimenting with this. But then we have this other dude. All he did was lay a wire across his property and picked up the elecromagnetism from the high tension wires.
 
Now this of course became a transformer of sorts. But he got something out of it. In fact the more current he puled the more he helped the efficiency of the power company lines.
 
They busted him. Any time you gain any utility not paying the rate is a felony. It doesn't matter if you are helping them, it is the gain. The gain is what will cost you a few years and your gun and voting rights. By any method.
 
Now get this, if they can bust you for picking up a magnetic field they put up on your property then they can bust you for a crystal radio. Powered by radio waves, you got them for free, you going to the joint. Look it up - theft of utilities.
 
Like those things that give you even years of electricity (for an average house, not a foundry) for a million bucks. It simply is not worth it.
 
I can rewire a meter box so it only reads half what you use. It would take years for them to find out. I could make it read nothing, but that is stupid, they know better.
 
And that is reflected in watt-hour meter design. They thought of every possible way to cheat and addressed it. What would you do ?
 
There are a few things they did not think of but I am not going into that.
"pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Jun 29 06:29AM -0700

Let me put it this way: It depends on the Utility. Here in PECO territory, they are commonly installed for about any commercial building (including residential buildings) over about 100,000 square feet that purchases "primary" power, and going back a far way in time.
 
Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
kayyan080@gmail.com: Jun 28 11:11PM -0700

Can you please send your number , I want
John Crane <john@localhost.net>: Jun 28 12:07PM -0500

On 06/28/2020 05:15 AM, Phil Allison wrote:
 
> Googling tells me this is a known hazard not shared with through hole parts - has to do with the use of silver plating on top surface of the resistor being subject to sulphiding and similar air borne contaminants.
 
> Any insights?
 
> .... Phil
 
I spent some time during my career as an electronics tech in the
petrochem industry. Lots of corrosive substances and vapors that will
kill electronics. It was common practice that after a board was
assembled and tested, it was bathed in a clear epoxy coat to completely
seal it.
 
-John
jjhudak4@gmail.com: Jun 28 12:53PM -0700

On Sunday, June 28, 2020 at 1:07:15 PM UTC-4, John Crane wrote:
> assembled and tested, it was bathed in a clear epoxy coat to completely
> seal it.
 
> -John
 
It's called a conformal coating and they are a number of different types depending on the environmental conditions one is trying to safeguard the electronics with.
I think Phil's question is more along the lines of the failure modes of the SMD resistors or interaction with the board material.
I have not heard of the failure mode Phil has described. IIRC, the sulphiding will form an insulation layer, so poking with needle probes is necessary to get good readings. I have not read anything about how the sulphiding changes the resistor characteristics. Sorry.
The only thing I am aware of, which is remotely related to this is the tin 'whisker' phenomenon which shorts out components. Caused by when tin (especially electroplated tin) is used as a final finish.
 
Could hot air reflowing the areas where the resistors are located help? or have the resistors themselves really undergone the change?
Sorry I could not be of more help
J
Trevor Wilson <trevor@rageaudio.com.au>: Jun 29 06:19AM +1000

On 28/06/2020 8:15 pm, Phil Allison wrote:
> Eventually I found 3 open resistors, all with values like 1Mohm.
 
> Googling tells me this is a known hazard not shared with through hole parts - has to do with the use of silver plating on top surface of the resistor being subject to sulphiding and similar air borne contaminants.
 
> Any insights?
 
**If I have a weird fault, I always suspect high value (>100k) or low
value (<100 Ohms) resistors. Both sometimes fail for different reasons.
That said, mostly I find such faults confined to cracked carbon resistors.
 
--
Trevor Wilson
www.rageaudio.com.au
 
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Trevor Wilson <trevor@rageaudio.com.au>: Jun 29 06:23AM +1000

On 28/06/2020 8:15 pm, Phil Allison wrote:
> Eventually I found 3 open resistors, all with values like 1Mohm.
 
> Googling tells me this is a known hazard not shared with through hole parts - has to do with the use of silver plating on top surface of the resistor being subject to sulphiding and similar air borne contaminants.
 
> Any insights?
 
**Also: Get yourself a pair of these:
 
https://www.wagneronline.com.au/4mm-plug-on-test-probe-hck-silicone/test-leads-hck-silicone/test-measure/tools-test/6762/fl/
 
Pierces insulation (and fingers!) easily.
 
 
--
Trevor Wilson
www.rageaudio.com.au
 
--
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jjhudak4@gmail.com: Jun 28 01:40PM -0700

On Sunday, June 28, 2020 at 6:15:19 AM UTC-4, Phil Allison wrote:
 
> Googling tells me this is a known hazard not shared with through hole parts - has to do with the use of silver plating on top surface of the resistor being subject to sulphiding and similar air borne contaminants.
 
> Any insights?
 
> .... Phil
 
The pointer to the tool is interesting to me. It beats keeping an old style pencil eraser around, which tends to dry out over time...speaking of that....
What is the material in this pen? fiberglass? and does it dry up or change hardness in any way?
Thanks
J
Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Jun 28 04:07PM -0500

> The pointer to the tool is interesting to me. It beats keeping an old style pencil eraser around, which tends to dry out over time...speaking of that....
> What is the material in this pen? fiberglass? and does it dry up or change hardness in any way?
 
I have a couple in my tool box.
The brush is stiff fiberglass, and you can adjust the length.
It works amazingly well.
And no, nothing changes with age.
 
 
--
"I am a river to my people."
Jeff-1.0
WA6FWi
http:foxsmercantile.com
Terry Schwartz <tschw10117@aol.com>: Jun 28 04:08PM -0700

On Sunday, June 28, 2020 at 5:15:19 AM UTC-5, Phil Allison wrote:
 
> Googling tells me this is a known hazard not shared with through hole parts - has to do with the use of silver plating on top surface of the resistor being subject to sulphiding and similar air borne contaminants.
 
> Any insights?
 
> .... Phil
 
Not unusual for high value resistors to fail open. This was also true for leaded resistors. The same environmental conditions that cause the surface corrosion contribute to the resistor failures.
Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Jun 28 07:04PM -0700

Terry Schwartz wrote:
====================
 
 
> Not unusual for high value resistors to fail open.
 
** Well they don't fail short very often - but high rates of such in new looking equipment is very unusual.
 
 
> This was also true for leaded resistors.
 
** Only those with lots of DC across them, not the case here.
 

> The same environmental conditions that cause the surface corrosion
> contribute to the resistor failures.
 
** Yeah - I did figure that.
 
But chip resistors are unusually vulnerable cos of exposed silver.
 
..... Phil
Trevor Wilson <trevor@rageaudio.com.au>: Jun 29 12:22PM +1000

On 29/06/2020 12:04 pm, Phil Allison wrote:
> ====================
 
>> Not unusual for high value resistors to fail open.
 
> ** Well they don't fail short very often - but high rates of such in new looking equipment is very unusual.
 
**I've never seen them fail S/C. O/C, yes.
 
 
>> This was also true for leaded resistors.
 
> ** Only those with lots of DC across them, not the case here.
 
**Nope. Seen lots fail over the years. Even those in preamp sections,
when Voltages are well below 40 Volts.
 
>> contribute to the resistor failures.
 
> ** Yeah - I did figure that.
 
> But chip resistors are unusually vulnerable cos of exposed silver.
 
**Certainly are. I've seen a few fail.
 
 
--
Trevor Wilson
www.rageaudio.com.au
 
--
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Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Jun 28 07:24PM -0700

Trevor Wilson wrote:
 
================
 
 
> **If I have a weird fault, I always suspect high value (>100k) or low
> value (<100 Ohms) resistors.
 
** That is why I went on a bad resistor hunt - after everything else proved OK.
 
 
> That said, mostly I find such faults confined to cracked carbon resistors.
 
 
** Small carbon film resistors regularly fail (open) due to high voltage "tracking" between turns on the spiral cut. Plate resistors in triode stages for one.
 
IME - metal film and cermet types ( ie chip resistors) are less prone to do the same.


.... Phil
Trevor Wilson <trevor@rageaudio.com.au>: Jun 29 12:43PM +1000

On 29/06/2020 12:24 pm, Phil Allison wrote:
 
>> **If I have a weird fault, I always suspect high value (>100k) or low
>> value (<100 Ohms) resistors.
 
> ** That is why I went on a bad resistor hunt - after everything else proved OK.
 
**The most painful ones I've seen were popular in Sansui products a few
decades back. They were typically in the range of 100 ohms ~ 47k and
would go high. Frequently to around double the value printed on them.
Fault finding was very difficult, since Voltages were almost what they
were supposed to be. Almost, but not quite.
 
 
>> That said, mostly I find such faults confined to cracked carbon resistors.
 
> ** Small carbon film resistors regularly fail (open) due to high voltage "tracking" between turns on the spiral cut. Plate resistors in triode stages for one.
 
> IME - metal film and cermet types ( ie chip resistors) are less prone to do the same.
 
**I've seen plenty of >100k resistors go high, despite being subject o
Voltages of less than 40 Volts.
 
 
--
Trevor Wilson
www.rageaudio.com.au
 
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Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Jun 28 08:25PM -0700

Trevor Wilson wrote:
 
===================
 
> >> Not unusual for high value resistors to fail open.
 
> > ** Well they don't fail short very often - but high rates of such in new looking equipment is very unusual.
 
> **I've never seen them fail S/C.
 
** ROTFL....
 
 
 
> >> This was also true for leaded resistors.
 
> > ** Only those with lots of DC across them, not the case here.
 
> **Nope. Seen lots fail over the years.
 
** Yawnnnn......
 
TW claims all kinds of impossible things.
 
 
> > But chip resistors are unusually vulnerable cos of exposed silver.
 
> **Certainly are. I've seen a few fail.
 
** The amp in question is a "DV Mark" combo with 3 x PCBs covered in SMD.
 
Every chip resistor ( 100+ of them ) is corroded after storage in its original packaging for 6 years or so.
 
It uses just 2 obsolete Sanken SAP 5-pin darlingtons, has no VI limiting or rail fuses but has an extension speaker jack just waiting to be shorted. Peak available output current is +/- 30 amps double the max Ic of the transistor.
 
SMPS with the markings ground off the control chip.
 
Will drive 200W @ 4ohms but has totally inadequate cooling for this condition and no thermal shut down.
 
The fitted speaker is 16 ohms with a *tin* neo magnet.

No schem is available.
 
Total PITA.
 
 
..... Phil
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 3 updates in 2 topics

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Jun 28 03:15AM -0700

Hi,
 
recently came across an SMD board with lots of chip resistors (0805) and similar size ceramic caps. There was mild surface corrosion on the ends of each resistor - enough to prevent a DMM from reading the value until cleaned with a "fibre pen". For the puzzled, it's an essential servicing tool.
 
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Fibreglass-Pen-Fibre-Pen-Pencil-Abrasive-Cleaning-With-5-Fibre-Refills-/310094191492
 
The item itself looked new, but was in fact 9 years old.
Eventually I found 3 open resistors, all with values like 1Mohm.
 
Googling tells me this is a known hazard not shared with through hole parts - has to do with the use of silver plating on top surface of the resistor being subject to sulphiding and similar air borne contaminants.

Any insights?
 
 
.... Phil
legg <legg@nospam.magma.ca>: Jun 28 09:11AM -0400

On Sun, 28 Jun 2020 03:15:16 -0700 (PDT), Phil Allison
 
>Googling tells me this is a known hazard not shared with through hole parts - has to do with the use of silver plating on top surface of the resistor being subject to sulphiding and similar air borne contaminants.
 
>Any insights?
 
>.... Phil
 
As formation of sulphides is a surface phenomenon, I doubt
it plays a role in properly reflow-soldered junctions.
 
Mechanical stress can.
 
Needle-pointed probes are quicker, though possibly painfull
when left lying around. Detachable ones make sense, if they
don't get lost.
 
RL
legg <legg@nospam.magma.ca>: Jun 28 01:33AM -0400


>Hello. The Zinger is a six light alternating and flashing unit. It could run either on with varied speeds or connected to a speaker wire or radio output to pulse with the music. I am trying to fix this bedraggled old thing ... I know, glutton for punishment. Anyhow, the transistor (which is quite toasted) is a Toshiba FIR3D41. I can find no info online about this part or what the replacement might be. Based on what it is supposed to do, are there any suggestions for a replacement? It is 120v and the model number is 528. Thanks for any info !
 
Toshiba made an SF1R3D41 - Note '1' , not 'I'.
 
200V 2A SCR in TO202AB package ('R') - anode center pin
 
It has a normal (not sensitive) gate ~ 10mA.
 
"D" is the voltage. (B=100V, G=400V)
 
This from a xref published in Singapore in 1990 - the
only reference I could find, and I've got the Toshiba
catalog (where there's no mention of it).
 
Light 'chasers' were popular in the 70's, along with Disco . . .
 
 
You could use a Teccor S2006F1 through S6006F1 (200V -600V)
to replace it. Only the physical package is ~ uncommon.
Most TO220 types would function, if they could fit.
 
RL
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 9 updates in 3 topics

naglenz59@gmail.com: Jun 26 05:06PM -0700

Hello. The Zinger is a six light alternating and flashing unit. It could run either on with varied speeds or connected to a speaker wire or radio output to pulse with the music. I am trying to fix this bedraggled old thing ... I know, glutton for punishment. Anyhow, the transistor (which is quite toasted) is a Toshiba FIR3D41. I can find no info online about this part or what the replacement might be. Based on what it is supposed to do, are there any suggestions for a replacement? It is 120v and the model number is 528. Thanks for any info !
Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Jun 26 05:36PM -0700


>Toshiba FIR3D41
 
<https://m.bukalapak.com/p/elektronik/komponen-elektronik/7ospx4-jual-scr-fir-3d-fir3d>
It would seem to be an SCR, triac, thyrsistor, or something similar.
The 41 looks like a date code or lot number. My guess is the real
part number is FIR3D.
<https://www.bukalapak.com/products/s/scr-fir3d-fir>
Looks like they're in Jakarta Indonesia. So, all you need to do is
find someone who speaks the language, create an account on:
<https://www.bukalapak.com>
and order the parts.
 
I've been looking for the data sheet on the FIR3D, but haven't found
anything because the phone keeps ringing.
 
 
 
 
 
--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
dplatt@coop.radagast.org (Dave Platt): Jun 26 05:49PM -0700

In article <d5ccabd3-5486-4545-991e-527e79e4a1a4o@googlegroups.com>,
>I am trying to fix this bedraggled old thing ... I know, glutton for punishment. Anyhow, the transistor (which is quite toasted) is a Toshiba FIR3D41. I can find no info online
>about this part or what the replacement might be. Based on what it is supposed to do, are there any suggestions for a replacement? It is 120v and the model number is 528. Thanks
>for any info !
 
I have a feeling that you will probably need to trace out the circuit
and draw a schematic, in order for anyone to figure out the actual
requirements.
 
I suspect that the FIR3D41 code might be either a house number, or a
manufacturing date code. I have little doubt that there are
compatible parts available today (probably an arm's-length list of
them) but without a schematic it's going to be really difficult to
select one.
Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Jun 26 06:36PM -0700


>Toshiba FIR3D
 
Google translate works well enough in the Chrome browser to decode the
Indonesian. I dug through a mess of semiconductor logos and found the
"T" logo as possibly belonging to Toshiba. I don't believe it, but
that's what it claims:
<https://how-to.fandom.com/wiki/How_to_identify_integrated_circuit_(chip)_manufacturers_by_their_logos/P-T>
Scroll down to the "T" near the bottom of the page.
 
The consensus seems to be that it's an SCR.
<https://mufarielectronic.wordpress.com/2012/05/23/scr-fir3d/>
<https://www.tokopedia.com/d21r/scr-fir3d-thyristor-fir3d>
<https://salinsalim.wordpress.com/category/rancangbangun/>
 
Looks like the real part number is "FIR 3D". When searching by part
number, wrap it quotes.
 
This might be something similar to your color organ called a "Disco
Lamp". It uses an FIR 3D SCR.
<https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/wSrxp_Q_mSt7_CqPeIAkqe0Yn3TcqQY_CvGk3mxyQwkqZh9BnIyu6oM3eUpAHh7vRvZy7pPf86BOtMdnQICRiCXo7uqU_OOnlmhMB4DUI4mYz4mnxrErphlUD9aJdcp7fQ=s412>
 
Ok, I give up. No data sheet.
 
--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Jun 26 06:45PM -0700

On Fri, 26 Jun 2020 18:36:10 -0700, Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>
wrote:
 
>Ok, I give up. No data sheet.
 
One more "FIR 3D" SCR, also in Indonesia:
<https://indo-ware.com/produk-2968-fir3d.html>
The page has fields for the specs, but no numbers are supplied. I get
the feeling that nobody knows the specs.
 
 
--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
Chuck <chuck23@dejanews.net>: Jun 27 11:20AM -0500


>Hello. The Zinger is a six light alternating and flashing unit. It could run either on with varied speeds or connected to a speaker wire or radio output to pulse with the music. I am trying to fix this bedraggled old thing ... I know, glutton for punishment. Anyhow, the transistor (which is quite toasted) is a Toshiba FIR3D41. I can find no info online about this part or what the replacement might be. Based on what it is supposed to do, are there any suggestions for a replacement? It is 120v and the model number is 528. Thanks for any info !
NTE5455 should be suitable.
bud-- <null@void.com>: Jun 26 01:46PM -0600

On 6/25/2020 11:37 PM, Cydrome Leader wrote:
 
> Wait earlier you said that lower current, lowering watts - "which is a
> scam", but now increased current somehow increases power. I'm so lost
> here.
 
I thought it was rather obvious.
 
You put a capacitor across a circuit. There is a current through the
capacitor. That current does not cause a Wh meter to change.
 
There is circuit wire resistance in series with the capacitor. That
cause a voltage drop across the resistance. That voltage drop must
necessarily be in phase with the current. That causes power dissipation
(heat) which will register on a Wh meter. This will be true for scam
boxes that leave a capacitor connected (likely all of them).
 
I think it us unlikely the scam boxes produce significant changes in #1,
#2, #3.
 
Selling points I have seen have been on the misconception/lie in my
first comment yesterday.
 
> 120 volts. You might only save 10 watts of resistive losess, but might
> also be able to not trip a breaker or blow a fuse if other items are on
> that branch.
 
The limiting factor on overcurrent protection is likely the starting
current of the motor, which can be about 6x the running amps. For motor
circuits, because of the starting current, the source overcurrent
protection under the NEC can be significantly higher than the wire
"ampacity".
 
And as someone wrote, for a "continuous" load (over 3 hours) you are
generally limited to using 80% of the overcurrent device rating.
 
And imagine you have a motor on a branch circuit that draws "too many"
amps. You connect a capacitor on the branch circuit at the panel that
*significantly* corrects the power factor. That does not change the
current on the rest of the circuit to the motor, which has not been
corrected.
 
bud-- <null@void.com>: Jun 26 01:47PM -0600

> Has anyone here ever actually looked into what utility-grade "capacitor banks" do, why they are installed and where they are installed?
 
> It is pretty simple, and pretty basic. No, they do not exist to 'cheat the meter'. Yes, they do save money, no, they do not save power. How those things happen together is where the 'magic' resides. But it ain't nohow magic.
 
Assume this is about locations, primarily industrial, where the utility
meters kVARh. PF correction can save a lot of money (pay for itself)
because the utility has a $ignificant "penalty" for kVAR 'use'. If the
plant corrects power factor the utility doesn't have to (I see racks of
utility PF correction capacitors often). The penalty encourages "magic".
If utilities don't correct PF they have added losses from wire
resistance (#3 above) and generator capacity is reduced.
 
If a motor is switched off and on the capacitors can be on the motor
side of the motor control.
I have seen rather large banks of capacitors in large plants. That
works when the plant runs full time. I expect they would be
automatically or manually disconnected if the plant was to shut down.
 
The most interesting installation used large open frame motors running
compressors, which could be unloaded. The motors were synchronous. If
over-excited they act as capacitors. Control equipment matched the
correction with what was needed.
Bo-Lennart <bo-lennart.karlsson@telia.com>: Jun 26 10:25AM -0700

Den fredag 26 juni 2020 kl. 16:11:48 UTC+2 skrev Bo-Lennart:
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 4 updates in 2 topics

Bo-Lennart <bo-lennart.karlsson@telia.com>: Jun 26 07:11AM -0700

Hi all out there. I have come a cross of a TORE SEEM-unit called L2003. It is a VCA (Voltage Controlled Amplifier). The heart of the VCA is a EGC101 (made by Allison Research). TORE SEEM was a Norway company. Don't know if they are still in business. Is there someone out there who can help me with a schematic. It would be fun to have it running. There is nice OP on the PCB. Like NE5534, TL071 and TL072. Four IC per channel. It's a 2 channel unit.
 
Best regards from SWEDEN
Bo-Lennart Karlsson
Falun, SWEDEN
"pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Jun 26 08:33AM -0700

audiofixer@online.no might be able to help if he is still around. He also maintained this Facebook site - even though I despise Facebook and all it represents: https://www.facebook.com/AudioFixer
 
Back in 2010, he was, apparently, a Tore-Seem guru.
 
Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
Cydrome Leader <presence@MUNGEpanix.com>: Jun 26 05:37AM


>>> ** Oops, no it don't.
 
> Scam marketers are likely to say that the lower current directly lowers
> the Watts, which is a scam.
 
Didn't know ohm's law just doens't apply when marketers are involved.
Sorry, but it does.
 
The lies are the amount of electricty and money you will save.
 
> and thus wasted power in wire resistance, but only in the wiring from
> the meter to the scam box. Boxes are likely to be at the service -
> negligible length = negligible saving.
 
The junk ones just plug into an outlet, they don't hard wire into your
sevice panel. Granted, the outlet you pick could be far from your
inductive loads.
 
 
 
> 3 - Capacitors are likely permanently connected. When the
> motor/inductive load is off the capacitor still conducts a current. That
> produces wasted power (metered Watts) in the wire resistance.
 
Wait earlier you said that lower current, lowering watts - "which is a
scam", but now increased current somehow increases power. I'm so lost
here.
 
> real-good-idea. (And the correction is a lot more sophisticated than the
> scam boxes.) But, as has been said, there is no power factor penalty for
> residential.
 
I don't have any bullshit power factor devices plugged into my outlets
24/7 with the expectation of getting money back from the power company
every month.
 
Power factor correction is real, and plain old induction motors are
terribly inefficient, and you'd benefit from properly correcting the
"empty" current they draw. A sub 60% efficient 1/3 hp frame 56 motor isn't
unheard of, and even a high efficiency ones will draw more than 4 amps at
120 volts. You might only save 10 watts of resistive losess, but might
also be able to not trip a breaker or blow a fuse if other items are on
that branch.
 
I don't dispute gimmicky boxes will probably not save you any money, but
to pretend that resistive losses don't exist doesn't jive at all with
reality and why branch circuits in your home even have a current rating in
the first place. Think about it. I assure you it's not the stronger
magnetic fields from an overloaded circuit with a coin stuffed behind a
fuse or an overloaded skinny extension cord that that cause your house to
catch on fire.
"pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Jun 26 04:07AM -0700

Has anyone here ever actually looked into what utility-grade "capacitor banks" do, why they are installed and where they are installed?
 
It is pretty simple, and pretty basic. No, they do not exist to 'cheat the meter'. Yes, they do save money, no, they do not save power. How those things happen together is where the 'magic' resides. But it ain't nohow magic.
 
Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 4 updates in 3 topics

bud-- <null@void.com>: Jun 25 09:16AM -0600

On 6/17/2020 7:10 AM, Chris Jones wrote:
 
>>   **  Yep.
 
>>> Power factor correction might lower your power consumption,
 
>> ** Oops, no it don't.
 
Scam marketers are likely to say that the lower current directly lowers
the Watts, which is a scam.
 
> load. (It will also lower the wasted power in the cables before the
> meter but since you don't pay for that, there is no financial incentive
> for the consumer to fix it.)
 
As far as have heard, the scam boxes are just a capacitor permanently
connected across the line
 
1 - I suspect the capacitors do not change the power factor much, thus
do not change the circuit current much - negligible change = negligible
saving (see 2 for the advantage of lower current)
2 - As in the post above, power factor correction can lower the current,
and thus wasted power in wire resistance, but only in the wiring from
the meter to the scam box. Boxes are likely to be at the service -
negligible length = negligible saving.
3 - Capacitors are likely permanently connected. When the
motor/inductive load is off the capacitor still conducts a current. That
produces wasted power (metered Watts) in the wire resistance.
 
---------------------
I think it is in another post - in industries with lots of big motors
the utility is likely to meter the inductive part of the load in a
kVARh meter (volt-amps reactive). There is a significant VAR 'penalty'
charged by the utility. That makes power factor correction a
real-good-idea. (And the correction is a lot more sophisticated than the
scam boxes.) But, as has been said, there is no power factor penalty for
residential.
jjhudak4@gmail.com: Jun 24 10:48AM -0700

On Tuesday, June 23, 2020 at 2:07:08 PM UTC-4, Jon Elson wrote:
> the ramp generator for horizontal sweep in oscilloscopes. Likely used in
> radars as well.
 
> Jon
 
Yes it was. For a fascinating and informative reading of foundational radar technology, one might want to look at the books that came out of the MIT Rad Lab. PDFs can be found here:
https://www.febo.com/pages/docs/RadLab/
 
Being a long time student of control theory, I looked at vol 25, Theory of Servomechanisms. The treatment of the theory is clear and complete and I was astounded to realize that my first control theory text book (affectionately
paraphrased to "Dazzled and Hopeless" - I cant remember the actually spelling of the authors last names), contained almost a verbatim copy of the servomechanism volume. ahhh, the good times...
 
 
John
root <NoEMail@home.org>: Jun 25 10:46AM


> For a fascinating and informative reading of foundational radar technology, one might want to look at the books that came out of the MIT Rad Lab. PDFs can be found here:
 
> https://www.febo.com/pages/docs/RadLab/
 
Wow, thanks for the link.
fynnashba@gmail.com: Jun 24 07:08PM -0700

On Friday, June 19, 2020 at 8:02:29 AM UTC+1, Tom Lake wrote:
> I have an ADM-3A dumb terminal and when I first turn it on the display is squashed and the top line is mangled. After five minutes or so the display looks OK but is a little jumpy. After a few more minutes, the display is rock-solid and stays that way until the next time I turn it on cold. If I turn it off back on, the display is still fine as long as I don't let the ADM cool off first. Does anyone know what the problem might be? What to look for?
 
After all the remedies You may also check the tube base and its connectors
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 2 updates in 2 topics

Jon Elson <elson@pico-systems.com>: Jun 23 01:07PM -0500

root wrote:
 
> I was looking through an old copy of Seely's book. My favorite tube
> (on the basis of clever design) was the Phantastron. Really slick.
 
Brilliant use of a tube designed for a different purpose. They were used as
the ramp generator for horizontal sweep in oscilloscopes. Likely used in
radars as well.
 
Jon
Jon Elson <elson@pico-systems.com>: Jun 23 01:04PM -0500

Tom Lake wrote:
 
> turn it off back on, the display is still fine as long as I don't let the
> ADM cool off first. Does anyone know what the problem might be? What to
> look for?
Ohh, that's the exact signature of a bad elecrolytic cap in the vertical
drive circuit of the monitor. Many monitors of that vintage had bipolar
electrolytic caps in the vertical circuit. These may be hard to source, but
you should be able to find a suitable replacement.
 
Jon
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 7 updates in 3 topics

Jeff Urban <jurb6006@gmail.com>: Jun 22 09:53AM -0700

>But, please take it elsewhere
 
When did you buy the place ?
Cydrome Leader <presence@MUNGEpanix.com>: Jun 23 03:07AM

>> some stuff.
 
> ** Wot a stupid fucking troll.
 
> Piss off.
 
slow down there buddy, you might trip a circuit breaker there.
Cydrome Leader <presence@MUNGEpanix.com>: Jun 23 03:13AM


> Now this Kill-a-watt thing, it goes against the laws of physics, I can
> see some things but not that. I even told you all about those
> generators, it took me a year to figure out how they work.
 
Why? It's like a $30 device and a pretty darn neat one for that price too.
They seem to have nailed it the first time too. I'm not seeing new
revisions of the device. There's somebody real clever over at P3.
 
 
> So anyway, this power meter thing. There is not much cheating them. in
> the US the way it is set up you can flip your meter upside down and it
> will run backwards. But if they catch you it is a felony.
 
I've seen plenty of meters installed backwards. It doesn't confused the
power company in Chicago at all. They can do the math, and will even leave
it and put the seal back on the collar of the glass too.

Cydrome Leader <presence@MUNGEpanix.com>: Jun 23 02:50AM

> single point, where the air abruptly transitions from low humidity to
> high humidity at 100? C. Everything else is done by temperature curve
> extrapolation. Crude, but effective.
 
Hmm, sort of shocked there wasn't a "fuzzy logic" spin on all of that in
1988 or whenever that annoying as hell fad came out.
Cydrome Leader <presence@MUNGEpanix.com>: Jun 23 02:57AM

> clothing and dry skin, enough current to certainly kill someone, yet
> some current limiting and isolation from the mains such that a RCD or
> circuit breaker will not trip to save you.
 
That's a good point too. All the service tech microwave oven deaths in the
US I'm aware of were people getting dead from the capacitor, with the unit
off. apparently those caps are perfectly sized to just stop your heart.
You'd get noticed about who croaked last in the trade bulletin/sales
"newsletters" that got mailed out every few months.
 
No doubt if you were getting electrocuted off a running microwave, the
fuse would never blow. I have a large transformer for what I'm told is an
industrial microwave something device. The transformer doesn't even have
shunts and outputs a full 4kV at a couple kW. It makes for one of the
fiercest jacob's ladders I've thrown together.
Cydrome Leader <presence@MUNGEpanix.com>: Jun 23 03:06AM


> Only reason I mention it is because I bought that from a store that only
> sold microwave ovens. Nothing else, just microwave ovens and cookware for
> microwaves. Guess those died out with laserdisc stores.
 
Weird. Microwaves+? I think they rebranded Batteries+ into something
equally weird like batteries and CFL bulbs and +. There was one in a strip
mall on Clyborn by Armitage or someting like that.
 
> beep with "Sensor failure" on the display panel. Then it did a 30 second
> countdown and end.
 
> Even things like a leftover half corned beef sandwich came out good.
 
Not trying to mess with you, but these sound easy enough to take care of
with even random presses of the quick minute button. Going to try an
"intelligent" mode for some frozen vegetables now in fact.
 
> vintage dishwasher that went out a couple years ago was fetching $150 and
> up, used. Being I replaced the whole thing with a brand new one for a little
> over $300 (and no interest for 12 months), whats the point.
 
Check the prices for the "computer board" for the new washer. Probably
$243 if you get a good price.
 
whit3rd <whit3rd@gmail.com>: Jun 22 12:28PM -0700

On Friday, December 2, 2011 at 5:26:36 AM UTC-8, Windmill wrote:
 
> If I can't find an explanation of the flash code, I'll try the rapping
> technique.
 
If it's not spinning, you want to rap it on a corner so that the drive is
twisted in the circumferential sense, relative to the platters.. The
most productive such rap is done a half-second after applying power
(it's useful to have a switchable power supply for this).
 
Once you get it up and spinning, there's a good prospect for it
to STAY spinning as long as you don't remove power, and
fair-to-middling chance of it starting again (the motor
is likely to care exactly in what pole-position phase it stops).
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