Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 10 updates in 3 topics

Wond <lost@the.ether.net>: Jun 30 03:09PM

On Mon, 28 Jun 2021 22:28:19 -0700, Phil Allison wrote:
 
> So don't use one.
 
> Regular mains power is gonna be fine.
 
> ..... Phil
 
My thinking too, but it appears from available bumf that inverter
types claim less THD than cheap conventional gens.
It would be interesting to see how Agilent/Keysight measure it in
their DMM. Thanks for reply.
bitrex <user@example.net>: Jun 29 06:51PM -0400

Replaced the LCD and backlight assembly in my old Emu ESI-4000 sampler:
 
<http://www.vintagesynth.com/emu/esi4000.php>
 
Which after 25 years even the LED back lighting was starting to get
annoyingly dim.
 
Replaced it with one of these white-on-black units which works fine
and looks pretty good:
 
<https://www.buydisplay.com/arduino-black-lcd-20x4-i2c-code-character-module-display-high-contrast>
 
Except that the software-adjustable contrast range, which was probably
optimal for a black-on-yellow display, can't bring the CV up enough to
avoid some "blockies" shining through. I'm wondering if there's a quick
hack to get some more range. Or maybe it would be better to put a
resistor in line with the backlight supply to reduce bleed-thru.
 
The "Turbo" board on these adds some of the nicest digital filters there
were in a hardware sampler of the era:
 
<https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zEg60WzYco4>
Rheilly Phoull <rheilly@bigslong.com>: Jun 30 09:27AM +0800

On 30/06/2021 6:51 am, bitrex wrote:
 
> The "Turbo" board on these adds some of the nicest digital filters there
> were in a hardware sampler of the era:
 
> <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zEg60WzYco4Do
Do you mean the pot that adjusts the light level cannot provide enough
contrast without the :blockies: showing ? All the units I have seem
pretty bright without the "Blockies".
bitrex <user@example.net>: Jun 29 11:12PM -0400

On 6/29/2021 9:27 PM, Rheilly Phoull wrote:
> Do you mean the pot that adjusts the light level cannot provide enough
> contrast without the :blockies: showing ? All the units I have seem
> pretty bright without the "Blockies".
 
Yeah. It's a little difficult to capture this particular color scheme
correctly on a cell phone camera but at the maximum range of the control
it looks kinda like this:
 
<https://imgur.com/a/liLGsd9>
 
And unfortunately the contrast is controlled in software, probably via
PWM there's no direct connection to an analog adjustment pot.
 
I might swap it for an OLED display instead, or just go back to the
boring black on greenish-yellow. Hmpf.
bitrex <user@example.net>: Jun 29 11:18PM -0400

On 6/29/2021 9:27 PM, Rheilly Phoull wrote:
> Do you mean the pot that adjusts the light level cannot provide enough
> contrast without the :blockies: showing ? All the units I have seem
> pretty bright without the "Blockies".
 
I got pic of it by turning off the HDR on my camera, it looks about like
this at the maximum excursion of the contrast control. A lil worse in
the pic than it does in person.
 
<https://imgur.com/a/xEbbFZ5>
Rheilly Phoull <rheilly@bigslong.com>: Jun 30 11:28AM +0800

On 30/06/2021 11:18 am, bitrex wrote:
> this at the maximum excursion of the contrast control. A lil worse in
> the pic than it does in person.
 
> <https://imgur.com/a/xEbbFZ5>
 
Okay, I use the blue modules with the pot turned back until the blocks
are only a little darker than the background which isn't too bad.
"ohg...@gmail.com" <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Jun 29 11:02AM -0700

On Tuesday, June 29, 2021 at 11:01:36 AM UTC-4, Allodoxaphobia wrote:
 
> > It would run on Windows XP class hardware with sufficient RAM (2GB+).
> Of course, any discerning computer user would install linux or FreeBSD.
> That should work for CPUs down to "W95 Class".
 
I have a desktop PC at home I built about 2004 or thereabouts. It's a Pent IV with an Intel MB and XP Pro and all the RAM it can carry.
Never had a blue screen or any kind of issue or crash with it. Now, Firefox crawls and some pages don't load or load incompletely.
I tried installing two different distros Linux, and both were *more* laggy than the XP, so I went back to the XP. For work I have to use one of
my two laptops.
 
Sadly, it's time to pull the plug on this old friend and my new build will be with Linux, maybe Mint.
Michael Trew <mt999999@ymail.com>: Jun 29 02:15PM -0400

On 6/29/2021 11:01 AM, Allodoxaphobia wrote:
> Of course, any discerning computer user would install linux or FreeBSD.
> That should work for CPUs down to "W95 Class".
 
That would likely be the route I take... I will avoid anything Google as
much as possible. I really need to install it on one of my older
machines to toy with and get used to the interface, so I don't have a
"culture shock" the day that I finally need to switch.
Michael Trew <mt999999@ymail.com>: Jun 29 02:16PM -0400

> I tried installing two different distros Linux, and both were*more* laggy than the XP
 
Did you try something light like Puppy Linux?
Rob <nomail@example.com>: Jun 29 07:32PM


>> It would run on Windows XP class hardware with sufficient RAM (2GB+).
 
> Of course, any discerning computer user would install linux or FreeBSD.
> That should work for CPUs down to "W95 Class".
 
You can do that, but it would require that you study how to install
and admin that. The beauty of a ChromeBook is that it "just works".
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 7 updates in 3 topics

Rob <nomail@example.com>: Jun 29 07:32AM

> I can't really tell from the published list of approved processors:
> <https://docs.microsoft.com/en-us/windows-hardware/design/minimum/windows-processor-requirements>
> So, I get to buy all new hardware for myself and most of my customers.
 
This is of course the reason that Microsoft has introduced these
requirements, so almost everyone will have to buy new hardware and the
hardware manufacturers are happy.
This also increases Microsoft revenue as new hardware means a new
Windows license, rather than some upgrade from Windows 10 which likely
would be free.
Rob <nomail@example.com>: Jun 29 07:36AM

> use my computer for, if I really wanted to, I could still use a Windows
> XP machine (not that I would). The main issue being that several
> websites now might not be compatible with the latest XP supported browser.
 
When you have older hardware and want to use it with a supported
browser, but do not want to fiddle with software yourself, you can
consider installing "CloudReady", the version of ChromeOS for generic
PC hardware (rather than ChromeBooks on which ChromeOS usually runs).
 
A free version can be downloaded from https://www.neverware.com/
 
It would run on Windows XP class hardware with sufficient RAM (2GB+).
Allodoxaphobia <trepidation@example.net>: Jun 29 03:01PM

On 29 Jun 2021 07:36:42 GMT, Rob wrote:
>> use my computer for, if I really wanted to, I could still use a Windows
>> XP machine (not that I would). The main issue being that several
>> websites now might not be compatible with the latest XP supported browser.
 
Many, many are not.
The last XP browser update, of any ilk (I.E., Firefox, Chrome, Opera,
etc.), was a few years ago.
 
> PC hardware (rather than ChromeBooks on which ChromeOS usually runs).
 
> A free version can be downloaded from https://www.neverware.com/
 
> It would run on Windows XP class hardware with sufficient RAM (2GB+).
 
Of course, any discerning computer user would install linux or FreeBSD.
That should work for CPUs down to "W95 Class".
"Peter W." <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Jun 28 09:46AM -0700

> 'I really don't want an answer to this question, so
> piss off.'
 
 
That would be the one.
 
Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Jun 28 09:17PM -0700

legg is a fucking but case asshole:
 
===========================

> or compatible metal chemistry, unless you permit visible
> discoloration. Messy.
 
> Which is the more likely Phil com?
 
** FFS you blithering idiot - I have the unit in front of me.
 
YOU DO NOT !!!!
 
I can see the hole for the metal speaker jack is not internally plated.
Go fuck your self.
legg <legg@nospam.magma.ca>: Jun 29 08:35AM -0400

On Mon, 28 Jun 2021 21:17:59 -0700 (PDT), Phil Allison
 
>YOU DO NOT !!!!
 
>I can see the hole for the metal speaker jack is not internally plated.
>Go fuck your self.
 
and is there a wired connection to that connector terminal?
There is usually a terminal provided to allow for it by the
connctor's manufacturer.
 
Simple chassis contact is not something you'd count on for signsl,
power or safety, unless specifically designed for the purpose.
That's why the ground stud is labelled as such, and electrical
contact is made with reliable conductors.
 
I don't think face plates are expected to have any electrical
function - they're designed for ease of use and cosmetic values.
They can't be specifically listed as a conductor or insulator
in their safety files, unless they meet certain requirements.
Usually these stop at legibility after cleaning and flammability.
The metal or other surface they are mounted on serve the chassis
function.
 
Zinc/chromate passivation on steel was considered to be an excellent
conductive finish for purposes of emc control, when it was widely
in use. Current substitutes may have issues.
 
RL
Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Jun 28 10:28PM -0700

Wond wrote:
=============
 
> My son has a new welder, spec'd 5% max THD input AC power.
 
** The welder is clearly not happy with power from a "modified square wave" DC inverter.
So don't use one.
 
Regular mains power is gonna be fine.
 
..... Phil
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 9 updates in 3 topics

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Jun 27 03:45PM -0700

legg wrote:
-------------------
 
> >https://www.thetubestore.com/lib/thetubestore/schematics/Fender/Fender-Blues-Junior-Schematic.pdf
 
> The mounting hardware for that jack is not counted on to make
> an electrical connection to signal ground.
 
** Irrelevant. So what if connects another way?
 
> This was something that you said you were worried about, when
> considering continuity of the box metalwork.
 
** Where ? I mentioned the speaker jack which is an all metal type.
 
> I think you'll find that PEM inserts have an electrical contact
> to the metalwork, even though installed after the metal is
> passivated.
 
** Yawnnnn - the holes are made post plating, which I mentioned.
 
Stop being such a PITA know all.

 
..... Phil
legg <legg@nospam.magma.ca>: Jun 28 09:50AM -0400

On Sun, 27 Jun 2021 15:45:17 -0700 (PDT), Phil Allison
 
>** Yawnnnn - the holes are made post plating, which I mentioned.
 
> Stop being such a PITA know all.
 
>..... Phil
 
Holes are usually formed at CNC, before metal bending.
Then passivation, then insertion.
 
To insert before passivation, you'd need either stainless
or compatible metal chemistry, unless you permit visible
discoloration. Messy.
 
Which is the more likely Phil com?
 
'you know, on second thought, there's nothing to worry about, sorry
for wasting your time with this.'
 
or
 
'I really don't want an answer to this question, so
piss off.'
 
RL
abrsvc <dansabrservices@yahoo.com>: Jun 28 04:11AM -0700

On Sunday, June 27, 2021 at 1:22:26 AM UTC-4, Sergey Kubushyn wrote:
> * KSI@home KOI8 Net < > The impossible we do immediately. *
> * Las Vegas NV, USA < > Miracles require 24-hour notice. *
> ******************************************************************
 
I have 8 of these in stock if you need 1 or more...
I am in the US and can mail these out.
 
Dan
 
dansabrservices@yahoo.com
abrsvc <dansabrservices@yahoo.com>: Jun 28 04:14AM -0700

On Monday, June 28, 2021 at 7:11:06 AM UTC-4, abrsvc wrote:
> I am in the US and can mail these out.
 
> Dan
 
> dansabr...@yahoo.com
 
Clarification: I have the ECG 519 parts in stock. --Dan
Ralph Mowery <rmowery42@charter.net>: Jun 27 03:31PM -0400

In article <5fb6ecb9-3eff-4fee-a31a-76c52da3a5dfn@googlegroups.com>,
bruce2bowser@gmail.com says...
 
> Keep in mind that here are three major alternatives to Windows: Mac OS, Linux, and Chrome.
 
Those are of no help if the programs I want to run have no equivelent
and are only written to run under Windows.
Michael Trew <mt999999@ymail.com>: Jun 27 03:53PM -0400

On 6/27/2021 12:01 PM, bruce bowser wrote:
>> run it, but most computers have those minimums anyway.
 
>> https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/technology-57598554
 
> Keep in mind that here are three major alternatives to Windows: Mac OS, Linux, and Chrome.
 
I've heard that TPM will be required for Windows 11, which will brick a
lot of hardware...
 
https://www.digitaltrends.com/computing/what-is-tpm/
 
Me personally, I'll hold onto my perfect working Windows 7 system that I
built in 2015, and I think I'll try Linux when it becomes less than
functional. I don't have a qualm with Macs, other than I'm not a fan
personally. I wouldn't trust Google/Chrome as far as I could throw it.
Rob <nomail@example.com>: Jun 27 08:08PM


>> Keep in mind that here are three major alternatives to Windows: Mac OS, Linux, and Chrome.
 
> Those are of no help if the programs I want to run have no equivelent
> and are only written to run under Windows.
 
By 2025 there probably will not be many of those left...
 
In business use Windows has become nearly redundant already, as more
and more applications are being moved to the cloud and are being
accessed via an internet browser.
 
Maybe for personal use and gaming there is still some place for Windows,
although many gaming programs already exist cross-platform.
Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Jun 27 03:04PM -0700

On Sun, 27 Jun 2021 15:53:10 -0400, Michael Trew <mt999999@ymail.com>
wrote:
 
>I've heard that TPM will be required for Windows 11, which will brick a
>lot of hardware...
 
TPM 2.0 is required. TPM 1.2 won't work. That means any machine
earlier than 2016 might not run Windoze 11.
 
I hadn't heard that it bricks hardware. Nothing in the article you
cited below. What's your source for that information?
 
>https://www.digitaltrends.com/computing/what-is-tpm/
 
Some of the other Win 11 requirements are going to be a problem for me
and my customers:
<https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/windows-11-specifications>
None of my Windoze 10 machines support TPM 2.0.
 
Rumor has it that the Intel CPU needs to be 8th generation or higher.
I can't really tell from the published list of approved processors:
<https://docs.microsoft.com/en-us/windows-hardware/design/minimum/windows-processor-requirements>
So, I get to buy all new hardware for myself and most of my customers.
 
An internet connection and a Microsoft login/password is required for
Win 11 Home. No clue on Win 11 Pro, or other mutations. That
requirement alone is sufficient for me to stay with Windoze 10 or look
for an alternative.
 
>built in 2015, and I think I'll try Linux when it becomes less than
>functional. I don't have a qualm with Macs, other than I'm not a fan
>personally. I wouldn't trust Google/Chrome as far as I could throw it.
 
I've been slowly moving my home stuff over to Linux Mint Cinnamon.
However, in order to stay in business, I have to use whatever my
customers are using, which means Windoze 10 and possibly 11.
 
--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
PO Box 272 http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Ben Lomond CA 95005-0272
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
Michael Trew <mt999999@ymail.com>: Jun 27 11:36PM -0400

On 6/27/2021 6:04 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
> earlier than 2016 might not run Windoze 11.
 
> I hadn't heard that it bricks hardware. Nothing in the article you
> cited below. What's your source for that information?
 
"Bricked" was a poor choice of wording. What I should have said was
"hardware that isn't TPM 2.0 compatible will be useless with Windows 11
(useless = bricked)
 
 
> I've been slowly moving my home stuff over to Linux Mint Cinnamon.
> However, in order to stay in business, I have to use whatever my
> customers are using, which means Windoze 10 and possibly 11.
 
That's a fair point, when running a business, I could understand that.
Myself, I only use if for home/recreational purposes. With how little I
use my computer for, if I really wanted to, I could still use a Windows
XP machine (not that I would). The main issue being that several
websites now might not be compatible with the latest XP supported browser.
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 6 updates in 4 topics

Wond <lost@the.ether.net>: Jun 27 04:02PM

My son has a new welder, spec'd 5% max THD input AC power. I see
Keysight has a DMM with a "relative distortion" position. Anyone used one
of these? Useful? Anyone have a favorite, or a simple method? Cheers
bruce bowser <bruce2bowser@gmail.com>: Jun 27 09:01AM -0700

> criterian like a minimum of 64 Gig of storage and 4 Gig of Ram etc to
> run it, but most computers have those minimums anyway.
 
> https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/technology-57598554
 
 
Keep in mind that here are three major alternatives to Windows: Mac OS, Linux, and Chrome.
Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Jun 26 07:56PM -0700

legg wrote:
===========
 
> >IME whenever such a chassis has a non conducting coating ( eg anodised Al or paint ) makers normally mask off any small areas that need to conduct. Not the case here.
 
> >I reckon the metal shop simply got batch of plated steel that look normal but was not correct.
> >Nobody with a DMM being around to check it.
 
--------------------------------------------------------
> Doesn't look like the chassis is used to carry any signal
> grounding - audio plug has plastic body.
 
** Huh ???
 
The input jack sleeve is chassis grounded along with the common earth of the PCB.
 
https://www.thetubestore.com/lib/thetubestore/schematics/Fender/Fender-Blues-Junior-Schematic.pdf
 
The majority of guitar amps have plastics input jacks, nearly all Marshall and VOX models for example.
 
 
....... Phil
legg <legg@nospam.magma.ca>: Jun 27 10:08AM -0400

On Sat, 26 Jun 2021 19:56:58 -0700 (PDT), Phil Allison
 
>https://www.thetubestore.com/lib/thetubestore/schematics/Fender/Fender-Blues-Junior-Schematic.pdf
 
>The majority of guitar amps have plastics input jacks, nearly all Marshall and VOX models for example.
 
>....... Phil
 
The mounting hardware for that jack is not counted on to make
an electrical connection to signal ground.
 
This was something that you said you were worried about, when
considering continuity of the box metalwork.
 
I think you'll find that PEM inserts have an electrical contact
to the metalwork, even though installed after the metal is
passivated. If the grounding stud is captive, it likely
also benefits from this contact, though star washers are standard
for a safety connection there, anyways.
 
RL
John Crane <john_crane_59@yahoo.com>: Jun 26 11:07PM -0500

Anybody know where to get these or can recommend a replacement?
I can't even find it in my data books, so I don't know the specs.
 
It's in a late 1970's PC-100A thermal printer base for TI calculators.
 
-John
Sergey Kubushyn <ksi@koi8.net>: Jun 27 05:22AM

> Anybody know where to get these or can recommend a replacement?
> I can't even find it in my data books, so I don't know the specs.
 
> It's in a late 1970's PC-100A thermal printer base for TI calculators.
 
https://www.weisd.com/products/884837-pg1992-nte-equivalent-nte519-ultra-fast-switching
 
---
******************************************************************
* KSI@home KOI8 Net < > The impossible we do immediately. *
* Las Vegas NV, USA < > Miracles require 24-hour notice. *
******************************************************************
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 6 updates in 1 topic

whit3rd <whit3rd@gmail.com>: Jun 25 11:44AM -0700


> To get a ground connection you must use one of the threaded bolt holes for the back panel. Never seen this before.
 
> Surely this makes grounds on speaker jacks and even the safety ground connection unreliable.
> I have read that the plating may be " chromated zinc passivated " which is high resistance.
 
To get through paint or plating, a star-type lockwasher is good; screw/lug/lockwasher/chassis
is a reliable grounding connection, even if you replace 'screw' with 'rivet'. Loctite screw thread
application doesn't seem to hurt the grounding with a machine screw, either.
"ohg...@gmail.com" <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Jun 25 03:44PM -0700

> I have read that the plating may be " chromated zinc passivated " which is high resistance.
 
> Any ideas?
 
> ..... Phil
 
 
 
I called my brother who is a research chemist. He said it could very well be the chromated zinc passivated finish you suspect. He said the steel is first zinc plated, then a trivalent chromate finish is applied over it. If it's colorless or slightly blue, that's probably what it is. He did say that this trivalent chromate finish would also have a bit of sheen to it as well, and it most definitely would be resistive in nature. He said it's for protecting the steel from corrosion as we would suspect it would be. He also said the plating could be dyed other colors if wanted.
Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Jun 25 04:10PM -0700

ohg...@gmail.com wrote:
=======================
 
> > Surely this makes grounds on speaker jacks and even the safety ground connection unreliable.
> > I have read that the plating may be " chromated zinc passivated " which is high resistance.
 
> I called my brother who is a research chemist. He said it could very well be the chromated zinc passivated finish you suspect. He said the steel is first zinc plated, then a trivalent chromate finish is applied over it. If it's colorless or slightly blue, that's probably what it is. He did say that this trivalent chromate finish would also have a bit of sheen to it as well, and it most definitely would be resistive in nature. He said it's for protecting the steel from corrosion as we would suspect it would be. He also said the plating could be dyed other colors if wanted.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 
** Thanks for that. Here are some pics showing the chassis details of one:

https://www.mojotone.com/blog/fif-blues-junior-power-transformer-swap
 
Look *exactly* like ordinary zinc plated.
 
FYI:
The top, where the controls knobs are, has a thin, nickel plated steel label folded over at the back and held by glue.
The threads of the various pots and power switch effectively ground it by passing through holes that are free of plating.
 
IME whenever such a chassis has a non conducting coating ( eg anodised Al or paint ) makers normally mask off any small areas that need to conduct. Not the case here.
 
I reckon the metal shop simply got batch of plated steel that look normal but was not correct.
Nobody with a DMM being around to check it.
 
 
..... Phil
Clifford Heath <no.spam@please.net>: Jun 26 12:16PM +1000


>> ..... Phil
 
> I called my brother who is a research chemist. He said it could very well be the chromated zinc passivated finish you suspect. He said the steel is first zinc plated, then a trivalent chromate finish is applied over it. If it's colorless or slightly blue, that's probably what it is. He did say that this trivalent chromate finish would also have a bit of sheen to it as well, and it most definitely would be resistive in nature. He said it's for protecting the steel from corrosion as we would suspect it would be. He also said the plating could be dyed other colors if wanted.
 
Thank for the response. To satisfy my curiosity, can you ask your
brother what process and chemicals are used to add the trivalent
chromate finish?
 
Yes, I realise that chromates are dangerous, hexavalent chromium is a
carcinogen.
 
Ch
Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Jun 25 08:42PM -0700

Clifford Heath wrote:
------------------------------
 
> Yes, I realise that chromates are dangerous, hexavalent chromium is a
> carcinogen.
 
** Before or after watching this?
 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BGX4nMrnxg0
 
 
..... Phil
legg <legg@nospam.magma.ca>: Jun 26 09:13AM -0400

On Fri, 25 Jun 2021 16:10:09 -0700 (PDT), Phil Allison
 
>I reckon the metal shop simply got batch of plated steel that look normal but was not correct.
>Nobody with a DMM being around to check it.
 
>..... Phil
 
Doesn't look like the chassis is used to carry any signal
grounding - audio plug has plastic body.
 
RL
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 6 updates in 2 topics

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Jun 24 08:13PM -0700

Hi,
 
just saw a circa 10 year old Fender " Blues Junior" amp.
The chassis is of the usual plated steel, bent sheet construction - looks like thousands of others.
But the surface is insulating - DMM does not continuity beep and shows megohms between adjacent points on the chassis.
 
To get a ground connection you must use one of the threaded bolt holes for the back panel. Never seen this before.
 
Surely this makes grounds on speaker jacks and even the safety ground connection unreliable.
I have read that the plating may be " chromated zinc passivated " which is high resistance.
 
Any ideas?
 
..... Phil
John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Jun 24 11:48PM -0700

On 2021/06/24 8:13 p.m., Phil Allison wrote:
> I have read that the plating may be " chromated zinc passivated " which is high resistance.
 
> Any ideas?
 
> ..... Phil
 
It might be an anodized aluminum skin. Anodized aluminum is very tough...
 
John :-#)#
--
(Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup)
John's Jukes Ltd.
MOVED to #7 - 3979 Marine Way, Burnaby, BC, Canada V5J 5E3
(604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
www.flippers.com
"Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."
Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Jun 25 12:05AM -0700

John Robertson wrote:
===================
 
 
> It might be an anodized aluminum skin.
 
** Completely wrong colour.
 
> Anodized aluminum is very tough...
 
** I am very familiar with anodised Al, this is nothing like it.
 
 
 
..... Phil
"Peter W." <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Jun 25 04:05AM -0700

> Any ideas?
 
Blue tint? That would be your passivated zinc-based material.
Yellow tint? That would be *chromated* material.
No tint? See Applied Varnish.
 
Given that the chromated material requires an extra step in the plating process, if this is a passivated plating (which I doubt) I suspect the former rather than the latter. Further, the latter is mostly done for corrosion protection, not insulation. Would Fender indulge in a costly process for corrosion protection?
 
Note that the tints are quite subtle, but definite.
 
Given that both are rather more costly than a simple applied varnish, of which there are dozens, I would look to one of those rather than something exotic.
 
https://www.mcmaster.com/electrical-insulating-spray/
https://www.cable-technologies.com/productdisplay/3m-%E2%84%A2-scotch-%C2%AE-1601-and-1602-electrical-insulating-spray-1 Two of very many.
 
Now, imagined it being done at an industrial level - the goal would be achieved at a very low cost.
 
Note also that anodizing comes in many colors from clear to black and all between.
 
https://www.ashevillemetalfinishing.com/2019/04/22/electroplating-and-anodizing/
 
But of all the options, that is the least likely as it is the most expensive. Somehow I do not see a guitar amp manufacturer doing this for something that is very nearly invisible to the end-user.
 
Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
legg <legg@nospam.magma.ca>: Jun 24 03:21PM -0400

>into a useful standby mode.
 
>Any ideas?
 
>RL
 
With a schematic for the power board only, I find a
balance error, inverter error output lines and a
backplane control input line.
 
Balance error signals originate in the inverter
balance assy where the flourescent backlight elements
pick off their drive. A glitch every time the inverter
turns on being normal - but this unit develops continually
noisy balance error signals after about 4 seconds, which
activates an npn/pnp latch to crowbar the 'backlight on'
signal input line.
 
If the latch is disarmed, the external processor shuts the
board down anyways based on balance error output signal.
If this output signal is overidden, the backlight still
turns off after about 8 seconds - Don't know why. Possibly
due to 'missing' balance error glitches from normal dimming
action, if the programmer was being a real jerk.
 
The balance board is mostly magnetics - 12 small ccfl
inverter transformers being fed from the same main
inverter on the power board. Inverter seems to run with
no issues - lamps light ditto. Not sure how balance
issues are being created - can't see any coupling caps
to fail. Will have to check each load for current,
somehow.
 
There should be a 'run till you catch fire' jumper on
this thing.
 
RL
legg <legg@nospam.magma.ca>: Jun 24 04:55PM -0400

>into a useful standby mode.
 
>Any ideas?
 
>RL
 
Found one of 12 panels giving abnormal feedback signals
and disconnected it. Works for now.
 
RL
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 3 updates in 2 topics

David Farber <farberbear.unspam@aol.com>: Jun 23 10:10AM -0700

On 6/23/2021 9:34 AM, Peter W. wrote:
 
> Not everyone has worked around this stuff for nearly 50 years, so it does not come naturally for them.
 
> Peter Wieck
> Melrose Park, PA
 
Agreed, "keyless" describes the socket but certainly if you have a
keyless socket you need to use a matching keyless insulator, right?
 
Thanks for your reply.
--
David Farber
Los Osos, CA
"Peter W." <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Jun 23 11:04AM -0700

I need a glove for my right hand. OK....
 
Purpose? Small, large? Garden, chain-mail?
 
Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
legg <legg@nospam.magma.ca>: Jun 23 01:06PM -0400

A Sony KDL40V5100 gives lamp error indictions (6 blinks)
but the inverter seems to run normally, if burst duration
is used for brightness control. Burst periods ~ 4ms which
would be acceptible for this kind of backlight. Amplitudes
seem well regulated.
 
Service manual pretty uselss without schematics and typical
waveforms/voltages. No hints about fault signal tracing.
 
Early start-up messages are normal - just won't enter
into a useful standby mode.
 
Any ideas?
 
RL
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 4 updates in 1 topic

David Farber <farberbear.unspam@aol.com>: Jun 22 12:02PM -0700

On 6/18/2021 9:09 AM, David Farber wrote:
 
> --
> David Farber
> Los Osos, CA
 
Hi Peter,
 
The parts have arrived. I have a question about the base paper
insulators I ordered. I should have asked you before ordering.
 
This is what I ordered:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/123481629788 (the item's description says it's
1 5/8" tall but I measured it as 1 17/32" tall which is 3/32" shorter).
 
Is this the item that I should have ordered?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/123577744732
It's supposedly 1/4" taller plus it has a notched cutout which I think
will fit the metal tab that extends from the support structure.
 
Here are some pictures that show the results of my unsuccessful attempts
at fitting the insulators onto the sockets.
https://app.box.com/s/imvpm6485l8t61td6v2v6dgojcgoz8ub
 
Thanks for your reply.
--
David Farber
Los Osos, CA
"Peter W." <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Jun 23 03:39AM -0700

The short answer is: What you ordered is for a fixture with a switch in it, either a turn or pushbutton. So, you are correct, you should have ordered the second type with the bayonete-style attachment.
 
Good luck with it - looks like you are getting there.
 
Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
David Farber <farberbear.unspam@aol.com>: Jun 23 08:50AM -0700

On 6/23/2021 3:39 AM, Peter W. wrote:
 
> Good luck with it - looks like you are getting there.
 
> Peter Wieck
> Melrose Park, PA
 
I had thought that when an insulator was branded as "keyless," it meant
that it was designed for socket without a switch. I should have used
some common sense when I initially looked at the photograph. Now I
wonder, by what definition could this insulator be described as"keyless?"
 
Thanks for your reply.
--
David Farber
Los Osos, CA
"Peter W." <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Jun 23 09:34AM -0700

> I had thought that when an insulator was branded as "keyless," it meant
> that it was designed for socket without a switch.
 
"Keyless" means the socket itself, not the insulator. The insulator will depend on how the socket is used whether there is a bayonet 'key' or not.
 
Not everyone has worked around this stuff for nearly 50 years, so it does not come naturally for them.
 
Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 2 updates in 2 topics

Michael Terrell <terrell.michael.a@gmail.com>: Jun 21 11:16AM -0700

On Sunday, June 20, 2021 at 9:40:48 AM UTC-4, John Crane wrote:
 
> After the glass breaks, the external atmospheric pressure pushes the
> glass pieces into the inner vacuum void. Impressive to watch.
 
> -John
 
That's the case with the implosuion shield in place. I've seen cases where early CRTs without one launced the electron gun across the room. In one case, it was stuck in the wall after going through the drywall.
The early, round screen color CRTs were quite dangerous when they imploded, since the bell of the tubee was metal and didn't shatter.
Michael Terrell <terrell.michael.a@gmail.com>: Jun 21 11:09AM -0700

> > only put there to sell costly replacement transformers. They may be good
> > in a coffee maker or hair dryer, but seem useless on a low current small
> > transformer.
 
You've never seen a fire started by a cheap transformer without a fuse. I have. A 'service company' replaced 100 bad transformers in some old Jerrold JSX-3 and JRX-3 cable TV boxes back in the '80s instead of using the proper transformer from Jerrold. They were coming back to our office with belted cases, and in one case, the plastic case had caught fire. Withinn six months, every one of them had failed. The original transformers were both fused and had stell end bells to prevent a fire.
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