Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 24 updates in 8 topics

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Don Kuenz <garbage@crcomp.net>: Dec 02 05:43PM


> <http://www.dansdata.com/goop.htm>
 
> Just about any reputable brand of thermal transfer grease sold in bulk
> for general eectronics use will do fine if properly applied.
 
I want to thank everybody for their answers to my question. It looks
like Dan put a lot of effort into creating the above web page, which
compares thermal compounds. My takeaway from both that page and this
discussion is that there is little measurable difference between
commercial grade compounds.
 
Dan mentions Cooler Master on his page. Cooler Master offers a 200G tub
of compound under the SKU of RG-ICFN-200G-B1. It seems to meet the needs
of my business. It apparently comes with a credit card applicator to use
instead of a syringe.
 
FWIW, all of the hundreds (thousands?) of motherboards and coolers that
I've worked on over the years (decades) always used grey compound. Not
one of them ever used zinc oxide.
 
There's the right way, the wrong way, and the Intel way of doing things.
Doing it the Intel way works for me. Intel coolers come with a square of
grey compound pre-applied. Intel warranty exchanges come with a syringe
of grey compound when applicable.
 
Delta once had me swap out a few Dell motherboards at the local airport.
The new motherboards each came with a syringe of grey compound. They
also came with a pad coated with a chemical to remove the old compound
in a single step process. Whatever was in that pad was corrosive enough
to immediately start burning my bare skin.
 
Such are the hazards of service work. I always keep lots of vinyl,
latex, nitrile gloves around these days. Never again will any chemical
touch my bare skin.
 
In lieu of hazardous-to-your-health pads I use ArctiClean in my
business. ArcticClean uses a two step process. In the first step a mild
corrosive is applied. It smells of oranges and is probably acetic acid.
In the second step a neutralizing agent is applied to stop the acidic
reaction.
 
--
 
( \_/ )
(='-'=) Don Kuenz
(")_(")
Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Dec 02 12:50PM -0800

On Tue, 2 Dec 2014 17:43:44 +0000 (UTC), Don Kuenz
 
>FWIW, all of the hundreds (thousands?) of motherboards and coolers that
>I've worked on over the years (decades) always used grey compound. Not
>one of them ever used zinc oxide.
 
<http://www.buildcomputers.net/cpu-thermal-paste.html>
The gray goo is some kind of metal (aluminum or silver) to provide the
thermal conductivity. The white stuff is a ceramic (aluminum oxide or
zinc oxide). Note the thermal conductivities:
<http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_thermal_conductivities>
W/m*K
Metallic Silver 406 - 430
Metallic Aluminum 205 - 250
Aluminum Oxide 26 - 40
Zinc Oxide 21
The huge differences don't translate into spectacular differences in
final CPU temperature. That's because the thin layer of thermal
compound is tiny part of the thermal circuit. You could use butter
instead, and it will still sorta work. The thermal resistances are in
the range of 0.01 to 0.10 C/W. It's like building a 120VAC resistance
wall heater and then asking how much will the temperature drop if I
insert a very small value resistor in series. It's barely noticeable.
 
80-way Thermal Interface Material Performance Test (14 pages)
<http://archive.benchmarkreviews.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=150&Itemid=62>
 
Gotta run, I'm late. Also think about packing density, heat sink
warping, ductility, galling, viscosity, and re-usability.
 
--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
Don Kuenz <garbage@crcomp.net>: Dec 03 03:42AM

> <http://archive.benchmarkreviews.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=150&Itemid=62>
 
> Gotta run, I'm late. Also think about packing density, heat sink
> warping, ductility, galling, viscosity, and re-usability.
 
Thank you Jeff for making me rethink my choice. Upon reflection it now
seems that Tgrease 2500 ( http://tinyurl.com/puj96hs ) best fits my
needs. It's silicon free and white (zinc?) with a thermal conductivity
of 3.8 W/mK. It comes in commercial sizes from 10cc to 10kg.
 
Intel may special order its grey compound directly from 3M or Dow. It
wouldn't be the first Intel part that's not available through retail
channels.
 
There's a controversy surrounding Arctic Silver 5's thermal conductivity.
The company claims 8.7 W/mK but another lab measured it at
0.94 W/mK. So it seems that Tgrease works better than the storied Arctic
Silver 5.
 
--
 
( \_/ )
(='-'=) Don Kuenz
(")_(")
Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Dec 02 08:56PM -0800

On Wed, 3 Dec 2014 03:42:43 +0000 (UTC), Don Kuenz
 
>> Gotta run, I'm late. Also think about packing density, heat sink
>> warping, ductility, galling, viscosity, and re-usability.
 
I blew the clutch on my car. Wiped most of the day arranging for a
clutch transplant. It's now 8:30PM and I'm in the office trying to
catch up with promised work.
 
>seems that Tgrease 2500 ( http://tinyurl.com/puj96hs ) best fits my
>needs. It's silicon free and white (zinc?) with a thermal conductivity
>of 3.8 W/mK. It comes in commercial sizes from 10cc to 10kg.
 
What I basically said was that it really doesn't matter. Like real
resistors, the thermal resistances between a heat source and the
ambient air add to yield the total thermal resistance between the CPU
die and the ambient air. If you want real numbers, I can supply them.
Suffice to say that the thermal resistance of the other components of
the puzzle are much larger than the thermal resistance of the thermal
grease. Off the top of my head, I think the typical P4 CPU is about
0.5C/W and the common heat sink (without the fan) about 2C/W. In
between is the thermal goo, with optimistically about 0.05 C/W. Since
they all add up together, the contribution of the 0.05 C/W is trivial.
I could cut it to maybe 0.005 C/W by using diamond dust, and the total
thermal resistance will have hardly changed.
 
So, why all the fuss about the thermal grease? Because if there are
any voids, air gaps, misalignment, warp, or gaps between the CPU and
the heat sink, the thermal resistance goes from 0.05 C/W to something
10 or 100 times as large. Then it becomes really significant.
 
>Intel may special order its grey compound directly from 3M or Dow. It
>wouldn't be the first Intel part that's not available through retail
>channels.
 
Magic sauce. My guess is that it's more important for it to be
environmentally correct, worker safe, and of course, cheap.
 
>The company claims 8.7 W/mK but another lab measured it at
>0.94 W/mK. So it seems that Tgrease works better than the storied Arctic
>Silver 5.
 
Dunno. It's tricky to measure. The solvent in the Arctic Silver goo
does evaporate with time, which will certainly chance the thermal
conductivity.
 
More insanity:
<http://www.overclock.net/t/1369042/poll-how-many-of-you-ever-used-toothpaste-as-thermal-paste>
 
--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Dec 02 09:00PM -0800

On Tue, 2 Dec 2014 05:53:37 -0800, "William Sommerwerck"
 
>Mica also has the advantage of being non-conductive.
 
It's not very flat and needs thermal goo on BOTH sides of the
insulator.
 
>You would never want to use conductive thermal grease //by itself// when
>attaching a device directly to a metal heat sink. At least, I don't think so.
 
I don't see why not. I commonly mount TO220 devices directly to a
heat sink with only a little thermal goo in between. The thermal goo
isn't going to act as a gap filler, but does help deal with uneven and
rough surfaces.
 
--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
John-Del <ohger1s@aol.com>: Dec 03 04:48AM -0800

On Wednesday, December 3, 2014 12:00:21 AM UTC-5, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
.
> heat sink with only a little thermal goo in between. The thermal goo
> isn't going to act as a gap filler, but does help deal with uneven and
> rough surfaces.
 
 
Probably referring to metal cased semis where the metal case is electrically connected to the device and needs an electrical barrier (like mica and plastic washers) to isolate it electrically. Years ago it was more common to find metal backed T0-220s or T0-3s that needed mica or silicon rubber. Today most semis are encapsulated and only need thermal goo to mount.
Michael Black <et472@ncf.ca>: Dec 03 11:47AM -0500

Ken <Ken@invalid.com>: Dec 02 12:31PM -0600

I have a HP Touchsmart 300-1020 computer that has no video and no
audible error code. The PS seems to be providing proper power for much
of the MB, its fans, its DVD, and HD. It has a APP78-CF mother board
that uses an AMD Athlon II x2 4200+ processor in an AM3 socket. I first
searched for some documentation on the processor since there is no heat
being generated by it, and that would mean it was not running. But it
is not available as far as I could find. (Years ago such info was
easily found on smaller processors.) My purpose was to determine where
the clock pulse was and to determine if the processor voltages were
present. I probed the MB and found the core voltages around the
periphery of the socket, so I think the processor is getting the proper
voltages. There is a clock generator chip on the MB (SLG8LP625T) and a
search for the pinouts also came up empty. I did determine it needed
3.3 volts however, and it appears to have it. Probing the clock
generator chip with my scope leads me to believe that the chip is not
running, as there are no active leads on it.
 
So my question is: Does the clock generator chip free run, or is it
enabled by some lead? Years ago it was free running on older MBs. I do
not intend to try to replace the chip, but I would like to know if it
has what is needed before I give up on the MB.
"Maynard A. Philbrook Jr." <jamie_ka1lpa@charter.net>: Dec 02 04:46PM -0500

In article <m5l0il$sa2$1@dont-email.me>, Ken@invalid.com says...
> enabled by some lead? Years ago it was free running on older MBs. I do
> not intend to try to replace the chip, but I would like to know if it
> has what is needed before I give up on the MB.
 
Check your power switch and circuit ?
 
Jamie
Ken <Ken@invalid.com>: Dec 02 08:15PM -0600

Maynard A. Philbrook Jr. wrote:
>> has what is needed before I give up on the MB.
 
> Check your power switch and circuit ?
 
> Jamie
 
If you mean does the power switch turn on power? The answer is Yes. If
you mean something else, please elaborate. I can turn on and turn off
power, the processor does not seem to be running.
jurb6006@gmail.com: Dec 02 07:07PM -0800

There is like a method to PC TShooting.
 
Pull all the cards except video.
If it has onborard video pull any video card and hook monitor to built in video.
try another power supply.
 
IF IT DOES NOT BEEP :
 
Remove all cards including video.
Remove all drives, even the USB card reader.
Remove ALL RAM.
Try another power supply.
 
One of those three actions should make the mobo beep. If not, the mobo itself as well as the processor are in question and at that point if it isn't too old you got so many options.
 
Make a new build, reregister the same OS, use the old RAM and drives, case all that shit.
 
Find a way to determine for sure if it is the processor, mobo or both. If not both, replace the bad one and you are all set. It CAN be both. I have seen where a processor shorted out and burned its socket, which is not replacable. So that is that.
 
But generally it is one or the other. usually there is only one main problem with anything. It may have caused more, but...
 
NOW, I forgot to mention something, when you pull all the cards and shit, remove the CMOS battery after that. Then try it again. See, WHEN IT BEEPS is what tells us what is wrong.
 
AND, in case you caught a BIOS virus (been there done that) when you see "CMOS CHECKSUM FAILURRE, DEFAULTS LOADED" is usually when you got it really fixed. Been there a few times. (when will I ever learn just to say NO when someone wants to touch my PC ?)
 
That's pretty much the scoop. Much more requires equipment, training, all kinds of shit.
 
And BTW to the people who say "CHECK THE POWER SUPPLY VOLTAGES CHECK THE POWER SUPPLY VOLTAGES !" I say this, "Just change the fucking power supply". Now if that is not possible at the moment, DO look up the pinout fo the ATX PS and check the voltages. but I like to knoiw quicker, just plug a new one in and let it hang off the side or whatever. You get a display, beeps, whatever, then you know.
 
Bout it for now. Get thorugh that and keep us "posted"...
Ken <Ken@invalid.com>: Dec 03 06:23AM -0600

> quicker, just plug a new one in and let it hang off the side or
> whatever. You get a display, beeps, whatever, then you know.
 
> Bout it for now. Get thorugh that and keep us "posted"...
 
I appreciate your suggestions, but this MB has everything built in and
things like the video card cannot be removed. I agree that most often
the problem is one item, and that is why I was trying to determine if
the clock generator should be free running. I have cleared CMOS and
some of the other suggestions you made along with removing the MB from
the unit and inspecting for damaged components. Everything points to
the processor chip not running even though it has the voltages it
requires. I tried another processor and again there was no activity by it.
 
My hope was that someone would have some insight to the clock generator
chip, as that would tell me if the problem was it or before it. Thanks
for your suggestions.
chuck <chuck@deja.net>: Dec 03 09:57AM -0600


>That's pretty much the scoop. Much more requires equipment, training, all kinds of shit.
 
>And BTW to the people who say "CHECK THE POWER SUPPLY VOLTAGES CHECK THE POWER SUPPLY VOLTAGES !" I say this, "Just change the fucking power supply". Now if that is not possible at the moment, DO look up the pinout fo the ATX PS and check the voltages. but I like to knoiw quicker, just plug a new one in and let it hang off the side or whatever. You get a display, beeps, whatever, then you know.
 
>Bout it for now. Get thorugh that and keep us "posted"...
 
 
You are spot on about just changing the power supply instead of
testing voltages. Voltages will check fine on some Dell computer
power supplies but the computer won't boot. The problem is the power
supply. My guess is that the supply fails when current draw increases
on start up.
"Arfa Daily" <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com>: Dec 03 01:41AM

"William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:m5kg3k$nbo$1@dont-email.me...
> in, on the (likely faulty) assumption they would supply a low-impedance
> path for errant voltages?
 
> Of course not! I shouldn't have written that! I'm making a fool of myself!
 
Personally, I never leave batteries in anything that I'm working on with a
soldering iron. Just employ normal good workshop practice of having a
resistively grounded wrist strap to a conductive bench mat. In my
experience, the chances of damaging CMOS inputs these days is very small,
given that they pretty much universally have protection diodes fabbed into
the chip, and usually some external R, positioned close to the chip.
 
Arfa
"Arfa Daily" <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com>: Dec 03 01:55AM

"John-Del" <ohger1s@aol.com> wrote in message
news:e072f4cf-9d6d-4edb-8b94-1ee6a3e1eabb@googlegroups.com...
> But Mr. S is clearly no newbie. If he says it's not jammed, it's a fairly
> safe assumption that the tactile feedback of his play button is the same
> as the rest of the buttons on the machine.
 
In servicing, it's a rule to never assume anything. It depends a lot on the
exact type of switch and how the outer 'user' button is implemented. Some of
the buttons have very little 'snap-action' feel to them, and the majority of
the return force on the user button comes from its plastic flexible hinge,
rather than from the switch itself. In those cases, it is perfectly possible
for the switch to collapse, but for the button not to feel much, if any,
different from normal or from any of the others. With some other types, the
travel of the switch plunger is so small on a correctly operating one, that
a collapsed one feels little different. Also, bear in mind that these
switches do not normally collapse spontaneously. Instead, they wear, until
one day, the last little bit of movement expires, and the switch goes short.
The switch will then feel absolutely no different today when it no longer
works, than it did yesterday when it did work ...
 
Yes, you are right that William is "no newbie", but by the same token, he is
not a 'current' engineer, and may not be able to feel the subtle differences
that we are talking here, without understanding the way his unit is put
together, and the failure mechanisms involved in these switches.
 
Arfa
"William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net>: Dec 03 07:10AM -0800

"Arfa Daily" wrote in message news:c4ufw.97892$MG6.5033@fx33.am4...
 
> the subtle differences that we are talking here, without understanding
> the way his unit is put together, and the failure mechanisms involved
> in these switches.
 
Which you have explained very well.
 
PS: I am very capable of feeling subtle differences -- especially in a product
I have used many times.
"William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net>: Dec 03 07:13AM -0800

> As soon as I find the service manual (which I'll be looking
> for this morning), I'll let you guys know. (I'm sure you're
> waiting with bated breath.)
 
Found it, and have "released" the lid. Unfortunately, the bottom of the unit
gets in the way of it swinging back, so //that's// going to have to come off.
 
Nothing is ever simple. I just keep telling myself "It's kaput, so what
difference does it make?"
effoff@mailinator.com: Dec 02 02:52PM -0800

> http://judge-james-j-lombardi.wasarrested.com/hacker
> http://judge-james-j-lombardi.wasarrested.com/phantom-shitter
> http://judge-james-j-lombardi.mediafetcher.com/news/top_stories/worldrecord
 
Mark W. Decker has been BLOWING both Judge James J. Lombardi
and Judge Arthur M. Monty Ahalt who, in return, have been porking
Decker's three daughters named Libby, Audrey & Hannah Decker!
 
GUILTY FEDERAL BRIBER Mark W. Decker
http://www.oalj.dol.gov/PUBLIC/ARB/DECISIONS/ARB_DECISIONS/SOX/06_104.SOXP.PDF
 
http://tinyurl.com/markwdecker - his BIGGEST LIE yet!
 
http://tinyurl.com/libbydecker
http://tinyurl.com/audreydecker
http://tinyurl.com/hannahdecker
 
 
Belfort Instrument Company
727 South Wolfe Street
- hide quoted text -
Baltimore, MD 21031
 
Ebosswatch.com rating with Belfort Instrument Company
http://www.ebosswatch.com/Reviews/Mark-W.-Decker/1412568293
Rated by his peers as "Unfavorable" in 7 different job categories
 
And now Belfort Instrument Company (dba DigiWx AWOS, Gamma
Scientific, UDT Instruments, Advanced Retro, RoadVista, KR
Acquisition Corporation) finds itself in United States Bankruptcy
Court as evidenced by:
http://www.amrcaseinfo.com/pdflib/1631_15463.pdf
 
Belfort Instrument Company financials are so BAD that CEO Bruce R.
Robinson has his primary residence in a trust as noted at:
http://www.city-data.com/bernalillo-county/P/Paa-Ko-Drive-2.html
 
You might ask "Why would someone put their home in a Trust?" at:
http://belfort-instrument-company.pissedconsumer.com/belfort-instrument
 
"Belfort's owners have "valuables" (like their homes) held in a trust
to prevent creditors (in this case, the bank that lent Belfort
Instrument Company all that money) from seizing their personal
home(s) when Belfort can't pay back the business loans. In the case
of Belfort Instrument Company, this was a smart move (some might
consider this a sneaky move also) because I pulled Belfort's credit
reports from the 3 main credit bureaus and Belfort is currently
delinquent and "past due" with several creditors by more than 90
days and in some cases 120 days. This means the money isn't coming
in fast enough from sales to pay for the company's debts. I even
found notes that some of Belfort's creditors are on a "cash only
basis" meaning Belfort needs to cough up money for goods and services
(raw materials) before another company will even sell them those goods
and services. This is NOT a pretty picture. This has been going on
for years. If you would be inclined to buy finished product from
Belfort, you may find a company which doesn't stand behind that
product because they went out of business. Info from Dun & Bradstreet
indicates turnover in this very small privately-held company at the
managerial and executive level so people's heads are probably
rolling there and it is likely only a matter of time before this
business is no more!
 
So who was driving these companies into the hole...... because there
is a common theme here...... his name is Mark W. Decker...... and he
lives at: 289 Long Point Road, Crownsville, MD 21032-1853. Call for
a personal appointment if you'd like to see how he can drive your
organization off a cliff!
 
Wanker Mark W. Decker Shatters World Masturbation Record
http://mark.w.decker.mediafetcher.com/news/top_stories/worldrecord.php
 
ATTENTION: Mark Wilson Decker is apparently posing as a photographer
based upon his Workface, LinkedIn, Posterous, Twitter About.me,
BigSight, Ziki, tBlog and Wordpress profiles --- just goes to show
you how sneaky AND creepy he really is! He's an unemployed fired POS!
 
WHAT WOULD MARK W. DECKER BE TRYING TO HIDE???
 
Well, have a LOOK at this:
Two federal cases that specifically mention Mark W. Decker:
U.S. Department of Labor Case # 2006-SOX-57
U.S. Department of Labor Case # 2006-SOX-81
 
According to:
http://www.mombu.com/aviation/civil-aviation/t-faa-dol-osha-fdic-doj-
investigating-belfort-instrument-digiwx-awos-10453477.html
 
Mark Wilson Decker was investigated for:
 
"FAA is investigating Belfort Instrument President Mark W. Decker and
Digiwx AWOS Tech M. Tylor Burton for bribing federal FAA officials."
"DOL is investigating Belfort Instrument President Mark W. Decker
for retaliating after suing a former employee who ratted Decker
Pecker out under a federal whistleblower protection program."
Did Bruce R. Robinson, Nicholas C. Kaufman, Debra S. Alascio Lange,
Ralph F. Petragnani and M. Tylor Burton aid in this conspiracy?
 
And there is MORE:
All the info contained herein has been published in some form
since at least 2005. Mark Wilson Decker gave up any legal right
(he may now be asserting) a long time ago that this info is
injurious to him or his family since the statute of limitations
to bring a libel lawsuit is 1 year in each of the 50 U.S. states.
 
<brob...@utilipoint.com> wrote:
 
Three little w h o r e s,
Three little w h o r e s,
See how they s u c k,
See how they f u c k,
Their daddy feels them up all day,
Their daddy probes their c u n t s all day,
Their days pimps them out all nite,
They're three D e c k e r w h o r e s!
 
Somebody is censoring this stuff; the truth must hurt!
 
Onze afternoon, i wasz catchin a snooze in my backyard on a sunny
day. Much to my surprize, i lifted my hat and found my neighborz
Jenn Racey unzipping my pants. Shez gestured to me with herz indexes
finger over herz slender lips to be quiet. I say figures okay, she
then unzipped my pants and reached in and tuggzed on my big black
mamba! Immediatelzly, my blacks a mamba becomes engorged with hot
burstz of human excitementz. With a big tugz with both of herz
handz, Jennifer Lynn Racey pluckz me black mamba to a full erctionz!
Shez then opened herz mothz and slipsz it over my full manhoodz. She
gagz and coughz a bit but begins herz suckin action upz and downz!
She repeatedlyz goez faster and faster untilz i feelz my venemouz
black mamba release a massive explozion into herz mouth. At first,
shez triyz to swallow it but my venomouz fluidz keepz jaculating
in herz mouth. Then, she pullz herz head awayz with herz handz
still clenched on my black mamba. She coughz and gagz a minute over
the concretes but then placez herz lips back on myz black mamba.
Once aginz, she jerks it hard withz both handz. Again, I'z begin to
release a strong venemouz fluid at a fullz flow into herz small
mouth. Myz black mamba squirmz in herz handz as i release all of my
venemous fluid from myz snake into herz mouthz. i'z kannotz waitz
til my neighbor Jennifer Lynn Racey sneaks back over to my house for
zome afternoonz delight. Next timz, me thinks i shall let my black
mamba go hogwildz in herz anuz. If she suckz me this good next time,
i shall let myz snake ezcape in herz anuz andz give her zome my
brotherly love. Myz black mamba has neverz felt so good after
Jennifer Lynn Racey wrapped herz lipz around the big headz on meez
mamba!
 
Mark W. Decker has a boat named Spoony:
http://www.boatinfoworld.com/registration.asp?vn=96438
 
What do you think the chances are that he has already
"spooned" and felt-up all three of his daughters (Audrey,
Hannah and Libby Decker) aboard his boat with his "vessel"
which he has a propensity to play with.... even in public!
Let's see if this causes Mark Kacucha some legal trouble:
 
Belfort President Mark W. Decker (U.S. Naval Academy alumnus), let
me tell you about this lowlife. Starts the workday between 9-10AM
by checking work and personal email. Come 11-11:30AM, he's ready
to go to the local gym to work out. Gets back in the office around
1PM and only then decides to take a lunch break as if the gym work-
out didn't count for a lunch break. By 1:30PM, he's checking work and
personal email and maybe making a few entires in his family diary
which he keeps at work on the company hard drive. Come 3-4PM, he's
getting anxious and is looking to wrap up his workday so he can go
home and coach soccer league for one of his three daughters.
Needless to say, all thru-out his "playful" workday, one gets to
see all his dirty nasty habits including:
 
1) scratching his balls,
2) stroking his c o c k,
3) farting (and then asking someone else if they farted),
4) belching,
5) biting his fingernails,
6) picking his nose (and eating the choice boogies),
7) scratching his ass,
8) picking at his toenails
9) coughing (he has a chronic productive cough... yuck)
10) he has kidney stones (and urinates with pain)
 
Now keep in mind that this is a US Naval Academy graduate (Class of
1979) who's motto is "don't do as I do" but "do as I say!" Makes
complete sense because he superiors in the U.S. Navy recognized his
lack of leadership very early on. That's why Lt. Decker didn't last
in the U.S. Navy and decided to enter the corporate world where he
could use his skills of conniving, lying, denying, concealing,
deceiving, and making things up!
 
Let's get this straight, he been with at least three different
companies over the past dozen years, all where he had a hand in
running them into the ground. Doesn't a midshipman know how to steer
a boat to prevent it from running into the ground? He's been with:
 
1) Unc, Inc.
2) Mentor Technologies
3) Belfort Instruments
 
And now there appears to be evidence that he either resigned or
was fired from Belfort Instrument Company for "poor performance."
Seems like he spent four years trying to sell DigiWx and DigiWx AWOS
and was a miserable failure at all of it while dragging down the
finances for the rest of the Belfort company. It's easy to conclude
that Mark W. Decker is "all that and a bag of chips" along with
some "s h i t" salza on the side!
 
How many freakin passes does this lowlife (who was born with a silver
spoon in his mouth) get? What kind of role m o d e l is he for his
three daughters Audrey, Hanna, and Libby Decker? And how about his
wife Jennifer Racey who decided to keep her maiden name (maybe
because she knew about the lowlife she married).
 
Why do we have lowlifes like Mark W. Decker around? This guy thinks
he the best thing since sliced bread. He doesn't think his s h i t
stinks and he doesn't think too highly of woman in general either.
Wonder how he'll explain that one to his three daughters one day?
 
Mark W. Decker (the "w" stands for "wiener" which he scratches)
Jennifer L. Racey (probably wife)
289 Long Point Road (assessed value of $968,280 as of 1/1/05)
Crownsville, MD 21032-1853
DOB: January 7, 1957 according to http://anybirthday.com
SSN: 212-60-0049
 
And then we have this:
Hannah, Audrey & Libby Decker (daughters) were found dead in a
second family home owned by Ralph P. Decker, Mary Ann Decker, Mark
W. Decker and Jennifer L. Racey according to land records available
from the Maryland State Department of Assessments and Taxation. No
immediate cause of d e a t h was available. The second family home
is located at: 11 Silverwood Circle SILVERWOOD Unit 3, Building 11,
SC 3, Annapolis, MD 21403.
 
No explanation was available about how Hannah, Audrey & Libby Decker
ended up in this second family home versus the other family home at
289 Long Point Road, Crownsville, MD 21032-1853 which is noted as
being the family's primary residence according to land records
available from the Maryland State Department of Assessments and
Taxation.
 
And then this:
COCK Scratching Belfort Digiwx President Mark W. Decker
http://www.dilbert.com/comics/dilber...-20070812.html
 
Pecker Scratching Belfort Digiwx AWOS President Mark W. Decker:
PREPARE A PROPOSAL FOR THIS CUSTOMER
 
Dilbert: WHY ME?
 
Pecker Scratching Belfort Digiwx AWOS President Mark W. Decker: YOU
WERE WALKING BY. I HAD IT IN MY HANDS
 
Dilbert: WE CAN'T WIN THIS BUSINESS. WE DON'T HAVE THE RIGHT PRODUCTS
OR EXPERTISE.
 
Pecker Scratching Belfort Digiwx AWOS President Mark W. Decker: JUST
SAY WE DO. WE'LL FIGURE IT OUT LATER
 
Dilbert: THEY KNOW WE DON'T. AND WE'D STILL BE THE MOST EXPENSIVE
BIDDER.
 
Pecker Scratching Belfort Digiwx AWOS President Mark W. Decker: BID
LOW. WE'LL MAKE IT UP WITH CHNAGE ORDERS AND UNEXPECTED ESSENTIAL
UPGRADES.
 
Dilbert: IN OTHER WORDS, I'VE BEEN RANDOMLY ASSIGNED TO CREATE LIES
FOR A PROPOSAL WE CAN WIN FOR A SERVICE WE CAN'T PERFORM.
 
Pecker Scratching Belfort Digiwx AWOS President Mark W. Decker: YOU
MAKE COMPETING SOUND BAD.
 
Just a typical day at Belfort Instrument Digiwx AWOS company with the
likes of Pecker Scratching Belfort Digiwx AWOS President Mark W.
Decker, Resident MURDERER Debra S. Alascio Von Lange (aka Debra
Lange), Jowl, Belly & Ass Ralph F. Petragnani, and the other THREE
STOOGES: William C. Gordon, Bruce R. Robinson and Nicholas C.
Kaufman.
 
Lastly, we have this:
Belfort Instruments Digiwx has t-shirts emblazoned with the phrase:
"The Wright Brothers Relied on Us"
 
American history seems to tell a very different story!
 
There is a press release with President Mark W. Decker
name on it as the contact at:
http://www.prweb.com/releases/2003/6/prweb67805.php
 
Mr. Decker says "The Wright Brothers monitored these
(i.e. Belfort's) instruments as they prepared for
their famous flight on December 17th, 1903."
 
THIS IS COMPLETE BULL-SHIT (Mark W. Decker style)
 
Here is what the Wright Brothers really wrote
on December 17, 1903:
 
"We had a 'Richard' hand anemometer with which we
measured the velocity of the wind. Measurements made
just before starting the first flight showed velocities
of 11 to 12 meters per second, or 24 to 27 miles per
hour. Measurements made just before the last flight
gave between 9 and 10 meters per second. One made just
after showed a little over 8 meters."
 
And then there is that indisputable picture of:
WILBUR WRIGHT USING A RICHARD'S ANEMOMETER (picture)
http://wings.avkids.com/Book/Wright/history1_19012.html
 
Belfort Instrument Company President Mark W. Decker
is trying to re-write history to include mention of
Belfort and/or Friez. This is a shame and a sham!
Buy anything except Belfort Instrument Digiwx AWOS
from Bruce R. Robinson and company.
 
MARK WILSON DECKER (Class of 1979 U.S. Naval Academy)
http://www.e-yearbook.com/yearbooks/
United_States_Naval_Academy_Lucky_Bag_Yearbook/
1979/Page_167.html
 
Mark came all the way across town to attend Canoe U. Plebe year he
became a news column regular from a starting position on the varsity
soccer team and co- captain of the plebe lax team. Youngster year
brought endless hours of study and a permanent nickname, " Max."
He strove to max all he did and was involved in everything from hang
gliding to " 4 pts. " and stars and strips. His home became the
refuge for many youngster autos and drunk classmates, none the
less the welcome mat was always out, and the hospitality was
deeply appreciated. Second class year saw the dawning of the
star fleet command of which Max was the CO. Even though Mark
had female pussy connections in nearly every college in Maryland
and Virginia, his 20-10 was primarily focused on the Ivy Leagues.
Whether commanding a squadron or managing a corporation,
you can bet Max will maximize and run it into the ground.
 
Last but not least:
Path: g2news1.google.com!...
From: George Orwell >
Newsgroups: md.annapolis
Subject: Mentor Technologies Mark W. Decker liked playing pocket
pool
Message-ID: >
Date: Wed, 5 Apr 2006 22:07:29 +0200 (CEST)
Mail-To-News-Contact:
Organization:
 
I saw where Mark W. Decker is now working at Belfort Instrumentation
as I always wonder where he went after skipping out of Dodge City
just barely when he left Mentor Technologies. If he hadn't left
in 2001, Decker would have been shown the exit after his dismal
performance at Mentor. The thing I will always remember about Decker
was his passion for playing pocket pool, the kind one plays when
they have something nasty growing in their crotch out of control. I
bleachbot <bleachbot@httrack.com>: Dec 02 11:52PM +0100

"Maynard A. Philbrook Jr." <jamie_ka1lpa@charter.net>: Dec 02 04:44PM -0500

In article <6tjp7a931epgpifkh7ic8rh6988d02ad1q@4ax.com>,
etpm@whidbey.com says...
> blow drier into the back of the computer. After a few minutes it
> started up. So what device fails when cold?
> Eric
 
Try replacing the Power Supply!
 
Jamie
Jeff Layman <JMLayman@invalid.invalid>: Dec 02 05:06PM

On 02/12/2014 01:17, Phil Allison wrote:
 
> http://www.effectrode.com/magnetic-delay/binson-echorec-memory-system/
 
> BTW:
 
> The wire cannot be "Constantan" cos like most resistance wire it is non magnetic.
 
Good catch!
 
I wonder if the original wire was, or was based on, the wire originally
used in magnetic wire recorders. That was about the same diameter as a
human hair, and trying to machine it must have been a hell of a
challenge. Also having an iron content must have made it susceptible to
corrosion. There is a quite interesting webpage here which covers the
subject:
http://www.smecc.org/wire_recorder_care_&_repair.htm
 
That mentions cleaning and lubricating the wire with our old friend - WD-40!
 
--
 
Jeff
Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Dec 02 01:20PM -0800

Jeff Layman wrote:
Phil Allison wrote:
 
> Good catch!
 
> I wonder if the original wire was, or was based on, the wire originally
> used in magnetic wire recorders.
 
 
** That is my conclusion too.
 
It was readily available at the time, the diameter was a tad under 0.1mm and it was made from a magnetic grade of stainless steel.
 
AFAIK, Binson were to only maker to use this idea.
 
 
.... Phil
Beloved Leader <Kim_Jong_Il@volcanomail.com>: Dec 02 10:19AM -0800

On Wednesday, November 26, 2014 2:33:27 PM UTC-5, Bill F wrote:
> http://www.troublecodes.net/GM/
> --
> Bill Freeman
 
Thanks for that link. I have the Y-code V-8, fed by a Rochester QuadraJet. To help keep the environment clean, GM covered all the places where adjustments could be made with steel plugs. A Dremel Mototool opened them up. The tools used to make those adjustments are scarce as hen's teeth. I made an adjustment tool from some brass shim stock.
 
I bought the plug-in "scanner", really a plastic handle holding a paper clip, years ago, well before there was an Internet. The important part was getting the manual, with the codes decoded.
 
Thanks again.
Beloved Leader <Kim_Jong_Il@volcanomail.com>: Dec 02 10:21AM -0800

> There might be a Saturn forum on a web site or something.
 
http://www.saturnfans.com/, for one. I'm sure there are others.
 
Thanks to you and to everyone else for the help.
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Ian Malcolm <See.My.Sig.for.email@totally.invalid>: Dec 01 05:23PM


> Does it make sense to use bulk thermal grease? Or is a single use
> syringe the best way to go?
 
> Thank you.
 
<http://www.dansdata.com/goop.htm>
 
Just about any reputable brand of thermal transfer grease sold in bulk
for general eectronics use will do fine if properly applied.
 
--
Ian Malcolm. London, ENGLAND. (NEWSGROUP REPLY PREFERRED)
ianm[at]the[dash]malcolms[dot]freeserve[dot]co[dot]uk
[at]=@, [dash]=- & [dot]=. *Warning* HTML & >32K emails --> NUL
N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Dec 01 05:35PM

On 01/12/2014 16:25, Don Kuenz wrote:
 
> ( \_/ )
> (='-'=) Don Kuenz
> (")_(")
 
Whichever you use, the absolute minimum you can deliver, not dollops of
it by the handfull. Its only to fill any microscopic holes, any excess
,over that ,can only reduce thermal conduction if the excess is not
squeezed out, so why place it there initially.
Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Dec 01 09:55AM -0800

On Mon, 1 Dec 2014 16:25:57 +0000 (UTC), Don Kuenz
 
>This post is about thermal grease for processors. Many PC technicians
>think highly of silver thermal grease. What do people here think about
>it?
 
I currently use Arctic Silver because I inherited a box of the stuff
from a shop that went out of business. My guess is that I have more
than a lifetime supply because I use it VERY sparingly. The idea is
to just fill in the cracks and gouges in the heat sink, not plaster
the CPU or heatsink with a thick layer. More goop is NOT better. I'll
guess that one tube lasts me about 12 Pentium 4 size CPUs. I apply a
tiny blob of the stuff to the CPU, and smear it around with a plastic
spatula until the entire surface is coated and that there are no lumps
or blank areas.
 
I've also experimented with tooth paste, Vaseline, powdered aluminum
suspended in vegetable oil, and other concoctions. Everything works
with only subtle differences in CPU operating temperatures.
 
I also spent some time testing how a polished aluminum heat sink works
against a polished CPU. The results were better than with Arctic
Silver but had a problem. After a few months of operation, they would
overheat. What was happening was the heat sink was expanding and
contracting irregularly and would temporarily open a crack between the
CPU and heatsink. Dust would get into this crack an create a tiny air
gap, which was sufficient to ruin the cooling. With a heat sink that
is tightly clamped down, this will not happen, but with the very loose
cam clamps used by Dell in some of their early Optiplex motherboards,
it became a problem.
 
>Does it make sense to use bulk thermal grease? Or is a single use
>syringe the best way to go?
 
I have some while silicon grease in a tooth paste size tube. I think
it's at least 20 years old and is maybe 1/4th used. It really depends
on how many CPU's will need grease. Adjust your quantities
accordingly.
 
Incidentally, if you read the Arctic Silver instructions, they mumble
something about the conductivity improving after the machine has been
used for a while. That's true because the volatile oils, that make
the silver dust flow, need to evaporate. If you leave the stuff open
to the air, you'll end up with an unspreadable lump. Therefore, most
such compounds need to tubes or syringes of some sort.
 
Don't forget to clean off the old grease and goo with some solvent
before applying the new stuff.
 
 
--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
Michael Black <et472@ncf.ca>: Dec 01 01:38PM -0500

larrymoencurly@my-deja.com: Dec 01 04:54PM -0800

On Monday, December 1, 2014 9:26:20 AM UTC-7, Don Kuenz wrote:
 
> Many PC technicians think highly of silver thermal grease.
 
Most PC technicians aren't nearly as skilled or knowledgeable
as electronics technicians.
 
The #1 maker/seller of silver grease, Arctic Silver, doesn't
seem to know very much about it, not even the maximum safe
voltage, but they did brag of it being used for IGBIs in
windmill electronics that ran at high voltage, despite
claiming that they didn't do any testing above 12 volts.
isw <isw@witzend.com>: Dec 01 11:08PM -0800

In article <m5i4q1$obk$1@dont-email.me>, Don Kuenz <garbage@crcomp.net>
wrote:
 
 
> This post is about thermal grease for processors. Many PC technicians
> think highly of silver thermal grease. What do people here think about
> it?
 
You can find performance comparisons of various kinds of thermal
compounds online. I'd suggest a preference for tests *not* run by anyone
who has a horse in the race.
 
You'll probably find, as I did, that the product-to-product variations
are rather subtle.
 
Isaac
N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Dec 02 08:11AM

On 02/12/2014 07:08, isw wrote:
 
> You'll probably find, as I did, that the product-to-product variations
> are rather subtle.
 
> Isaac
 
Similarly whenever you see test results for the related product silipads
you never see the companies' products cross-compared with mica slips.
Mica is non-patentable and dirt cheap with the technical advantage it
does not creep , so does loose functionality over time and heat-cycling.
What limited in-service testing I've done , mica does a better job in
heat transfer, let alone longevity advantage
"William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net>: Dec 02 05:53AM -0800

Mica also has the advantage of being non-conductive.
 
You would never want to use conductive thermal grease //by itself// when
attaching a device directly to a metal heat sink. At least, I don't think so.
"Arfa Daily" <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com>: Dec 02 01:23AM

"John-Del" <ohger1s@aol.com> wrote in message
news:e4d5ecc5-4700-4852-a88d-126b2989cb1c@googlegroups.com...
 
> He said it wasn't collapsed, although there's the possibility some liquid
> was spilled in the key matrix and is causing an unintended function
> command.
 
 
Err, no he didn't. He said it wasn't jammed, which is an entirely different
thing. I replace many many of these buttons on a variety of equipment that
uses them, and it is not at all uncommon for the dome to collapse, whilst
the outer control button remains free to move.
 
 
 
> But I've seen a few of these over the years where the scan lines can be
> unsoldered at the micro for a test and the fault remains. Sometimes it's
> a bad micro caused by a static discharge through the control board.
 
I've had one or two failed micros over the years, but compared to faulty
switches, the relative proportion is vanishingly small
 
Arfa
John-Del <ohger1s@aol.com>: Dec 02 04:44AM -0800

On Monday, December 1, 2014 8:23:21 PM UTC-5, Arfa Daily wrote:
 
> thing. I replace many many of these buttons on a variety of equipment that
> uses them, and it is not at all uncommon for the dome to collapse, whilst
> the outer control button remains free to move.
 
If you're talking to a customer on the phone and they say it isn't jammed, it's possible the switch collapsed and they can't tell the difference. But Mr. S is clearly no newbie. If he says it's not jammed, it's a fairly safe assumption that the tactile feedback of his play button is the same as the rest of the buttons on the machine.
"William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net>: Dec 02 05:50AM -0800

"Arfa Daily" wrote in message news:bw8fw.77009$c94.39827@fx21.am4...
 
> I've had one or two failed micros over the years, but compared to faulty
> switches, the relative proportion is vanishingly small.
 
As soon as I find the service manual (which I will be looking for this
morning), I will let you guys know. (I'm sure you're waiting with bated
breath.)
 
Practical servicing question, Arfa... If I'm soldering in a CMOS-based device
that's battery-operated, would it make sense to leave the batteries in, on the
(likely faulty) assumption they would supply a low-impedance path for errant
voltages?
 
Of course not! I shouldn't have written that! I'm making a fool of myself!
Jeff Layman <JMLayman@invalid.invalid>: Dec 01 05:11PM

On 30/11/2014 02:35, Phil Allison wrote:
 
> http://www.hubinet.com/images/BINSON1.JPG
 
What is the thing on the top on the left (directly behind the "B" of
"Binson") that looks like a bottle of Loctite in a battery holder?
 
--
 
Jeff
Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Dec 01 04:16PM -0800

Jeff Layman wrote:
 
> > http://www.hubinet.com/images/BINSON1.JPG
 
> What is the thing on the top on the left (directly behind the "B" of
> "Binson") that looks like a bottle of Loctite in a battery holder?
 
** That is bottle of light oil.
 
The steel band needs a smear of oil clean it and so the heads do not make actual contact.
 
http://www.effectrode.com/magnetic-delay/binson-echorec-manual/
 
FYI
 
the steel band is very thin and quite seamless - it appears to be shrink fited onto the alloy drum. Nice bit of machining to make that from a steel tube.
 
Regular 1/4 inch tape heads are used with a normal HF bias oscillator for record but a permanent magnet for erase. So there is more background noise than tape recorder of the same vintage.
 
But running at 20ips does help.
 
 
... Phil
Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Dec 01 05:17PM -0800

Phil Allison wrote:
 
 
> the steel band is very thin and quite seamless - it appears to be shrink fited onto the alloy drum. Nice bit of machining to make that from a steel tube.
 
 
** Forget that.
 
Info recently posted on the web (not there when I have me example on the bench) suggests the "band" is made from very fine wire, probably a Iron / Nickel alloy, wound onto the drum and then machined smooth.
 
http://www.effectrode.com/magnetic-delay/binson-echorec-memory-system/
 
BTW:
 
The wire cannot be "Constantan" cos like most resistance wire it is non magnetic.
 

... Phil
etpm@whidbey.com: Dec 01 12:35PM -0800

I have a computer with a flaky power supply. If the computer is
unplugged for a while it will not turn on after it has been plugged in
again until sometime has passed. About 10 minutes at room tepmerature.
A couple days ago the power lines to my house came down along with the
snow. The outside temp was in the low twenties. By the time power had
been re-established the office temp was only about 25 degrees. In
order to get the computer to start I had to direct the hot air from a
blow drier into the back of the computer. After a few minutes it
started up. So what device fails when cold?
Eric
Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Dec 01 12:49PM -0800

>blow drier into the back of the computer. After a few minutes it
>started up. So what device fails when cold?
>Eric
 
Bulging electrolytic capacitors in the power supply.
http://www.badcaps.net
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor_plague
http://802.11junk.com/jeffl/pics/repair/slides/bad-caps.html
 
--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
Sjouke Burry <burrynulnulfour@ppllaanneett.nnll>: Dec 01 10:24PM +0100

> blow drier into the back of the computer. After a few minutes it
> started up. So what device fails when cold?
> Eric
 
A degraded, old capacitor.
Those, when cold, have a high serial resistor,
and wont work properly.
When you heat them, the resistor value will go down quite a lot,
and things start working.
A very common cause of equipment failure, very dependent on
temperature.
etpm@whidbey.com: Dec 01 04:13PM -0800

On Mon, 01 Dec 2014 22:24:12 +0100, Sjouke Burry
>and things start working.
>A very common cause of equipment failure, very dependent on
>temperature.
Thanks Jeff and Sjouke. Now I know what to look for.
Eric
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Don Kuenz <garbage@crcomp.net>: Dec 01 04:25PM

Greetings,

This post is about thermal grease for processors. Many PC technicians
think highly of silver thermal grease. What do people here think about
it?

Does it make sense to use bulk thermal grease? Or is a single use
syringe the best way to go?

Thank you.

--

( \_/ )
(='-'=) Don Kuenz
(")_(")
"William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net>: Dec 01 08:07AM -0800

This is the site where I found a manual for the wireless headphones for Ms
Long-Russian-Name.
 
It appears to be legit. You might want to bookmark it..
 
http://freeservicemanuals.info/en/servicemanuals
"William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net>: Nov 30 10:40AM -0800

This is an "out of curiosity" question. I have multiple backups of this unit,
and //do not// intend to repair it. I just want to see if anyone has any
interesting insights.
 
The unit is a D-FJ75TR, one of Sony's last "deluxe" Discmans. I'd been using
it to listen to CDs in bed, and yesterday it stopped working correctly.
 
When I install the batteries, or plug it into the adapter, it immediately
starts to play -- and none of the controls work. I can't pause it, change the
track, set the volume, etc. Nor do any of the controls on the remote/tuner
module work. (Unplugging the remote doesn't fix the problem. And the control
lock button isn't jammed.)
 
The "obvious" answer is CMOS lockup, which I've seen on other products.
Yanking the power while the device is running sometimes cures this, but not in
this case.
 
I'm not trying to start an extended, overwrought discussion. I'm just
wondering if anyone has any ideas.
 
Thanks.
N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Nov 30 06:47PM

On 30/11/2014 18:40, William Sommerwerck wrote:
 
> I'm not trying to start an extended, overwrought discussion. I'm just
> wondering if anyone has any ideas.
 
> Thanks.
 
stuck contact of a key?
"William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net>: Nov 30 02:29PM -0800

> Stuck contact of a key?
 
The obvious one would be the Play button (as the unit starts playing when I
put the batteries in).
 
I'll try holding down the Play button on a "good" unit, and see what happens.
jurb6006@gmail.com: Nov 30 02:32PM -0800

Some models had a "lock" switch to keep random hits from affecting the play while one is jogging or something.
 
HAHAHA, Sony thought people in this country jog !
"Gareth Magennis" <gareth.magennis@ntlworld.com>: Nov 30 10:51PM

"N_Cook" wrote in message news:m5fono$pdm$1@dont-email.me...
 
On 30/11/2014 18:40, William Sommerwerck wrote:
 
> I'm not trying to start an extended, overwrought discussion. I'm just
> wondering if anyone has any ideas.
 
> Thanks.
 
stuck contact of a key?
 
 
 
 
I thought so too.
 
 
Gareth.
"William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net>: Nov 30 03:04PM -0800

When the Play/Pause button is held down, a "good" unit misbehaves in exactly
the same way as the "bad" unit, whether or not the remote control is
installed.
 
The Play/Pause button isn't jammed, so it would seem the fault is somewhere in
the wiring.
 
I have the service manual. When I find it, I'll tear into the lid (which holds
the key pad). It couldn't hurt.
"Arfa Daily" <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com>: Dec 01 02:18AM

"William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:m5g7op$nbp$1@dont-email.me...
> somewhere in the wiring.
 
> I have the service manual. When I find it, I'll tear into the lid (which
> holds the key pad). It couldn't hurt.
 
Assuming that it's one of the tactile 'dome' switches, it is very common for
these to 'collapse' and effectively fail short circuit. I know that you said
you were not looking to repair it, but it really is a very simple fix if you
can be bothered to take it apart.
 
Arfa
John-Del <ohger1s@aol.com>: Dec 01 04:24AM -0800

> you were not looking to repair it, but it really is a very simple fix if you
> can be bothered to take it apart.
 
> Arfa
 
He said it wasn't collapsed, although there's the possibility some liquid was spilled in the key matrix and is causing an unintended function command.
 
But I've seen a few of these over the years where the scan lines can be unsoldered at the micro for a test and the fault remains. Sometimes it's a bad micro caused by a static discharge through the control board.
"Gareth Magennis" <sound.service@btconnect.com>: Dec 01 02:49PM

"John-Del" <ohger1s@aol.com> wrote in message
news:e4d5ecc5-4700-4852-a88d-126b2989cb1c@googlegroups.com...
 
> But I've seen a few of these over the years where the scan lines can be
> unsoldered at the micro for a test and the fault remains. Sometimes it's
> a bad micro caused by a static discharge through the control board.
 
I had a piano keyboard once that had lost some notes.
It turned out the scan IC scanned both the keys and the button/LED matrix
using part of the same bus. One LED was short circuited, which disabled one
line shared with the keys, taking out the whole bunch of notes.
 
 
 
Gareth.
"William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net>: Dec 01 08:01AM -0800

"Arfa Daily" wrote in message news:NdQew.43447$tz7.25356@fx43.am4...
 
> for these to 'collapse' and effectively fail short circuit. I know that you
> said you were not looking to repair it, but it really is a very simple fix
> if you can be bothered to take it apart.
 
It's not a question of "bothered". I have to find the service manual so I can
"rationally" remove the lid. (It's not obvious how it comes off.) Once that's
done, it will be a simple matter to unscrew the panel covering the switch pad.
 
Thanks for your encouragement. Now, if I can get some help with the Lux
amplifier I damaged yesterday... (There's always John Curl.)
"David Farber" <farberbear.unspam@aol.com>: Dec 01 01:16AM -0800

David K. Bryant wrote:
 
> For your Tray 1 problem you need a RG5-2651 clutch.
> They're $29 at Printerworks.com
 
> --- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: news@netfront.net ---
 
Hi David,
 
No, 40k is correct. It gets light use now. I acquired it used about 7 years
ago.
 
Regarding the clutch which I found at
http://www.printerworks.com/Catalogs/4K-Catalog/270_4KPaperFeed.html I was
wondering, is there one particular part in that assembly which causes the
failure?
 
Thanks for your reply.
--
David Farber
Los Osos, CA
"Arfa Daily" <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com>: Dec 01 02:27AM

"Phil Allison" <pallison49@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:63c28c7d-d0ab-4ddc-b583-4cedb486b481@googlegroups.com...
 
> BTW
 
> You can pop a CD on top of the platter and it looks like it belongs.
 
> .... Phil
 
In all my long bench years, I've seen just one of these, I think. I'm trying
hard to remember what was wrong with it. I have this feeling that it was an
open circuit head, but that might be a memory of a WEM Copycat ...
 
Arfa
N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Dec 01 08:32AM

On 01/12/2014 02:27, Arfa Daily wrote:
> it was an open circuit head, but that might be a memory of a WEM
> Copycat ...
 
> Arfa
 
The oddest one I came across was when I was making rather than repairing
electronic stuff. Ended up being thrown out but these days I would have
persisted.
I don't think it was a prototype as the lettering on the front was silk
screened and the , yes actual Nescafe coffee tin , inside and so not
visible to an owner, was painted black on the outside of the tin.
Inside was a leather wiper attached to a record deck cartridge or
something, an oil film around the inside and a motor to spin this wiper
in the tin around the curved surface. As I received it was minus the 3
or 4 valves, the motor seized and a number of missing wires. No info
found about it then or now. Only about 6x9x8 inches in size
N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Dec 01 08:47AM

Googling around, it was much like these
http://gretschpages.com/forum/garage-sale/anybody-need-a-b5-wa-vibramate-or-two/43619/page1/
 
http://www.lakeviewmedia.com/music-gear/Telray-adineko/adineko.html
 
same lidded tin can but 1 or 2 more valve (bases anyway) , a couple more
front controls, no name on the front or anywhere
"Maynard A. Philbrook Jr." <jamie_ka1lpa@charter.net>: Nov 30 12:06PM -0500

In article <m5fehi$fsd$1@dont-email.me>, grizzledgeezer@comcast.net
says...
> little later (on its own, without my running a scan). I requested a removal,
> and had to restart the computer. I then ran a full scan, and it seemed to be
> gone.
 
Did you ever figure out what exactly it was doing? You may have gotten
lucky before the damage was done or it may have already ran its course
or what ever it was meant to do in the first place and you may not have
what it was looking for.
 
I remember at one time my bank I do business with had a problem. One
day I got an Email from an unknown source showing my back balance and a
few other important things, indicating that I should log in to correct
some details of my. There was a link available for me to use and I
noticed that it didn't go to any site that was my bank.. So I used
my regular log in and there was no problem with my details but, the
information that was in my Email was spot on as to my accounts etc..
 
I quickly called them after several holds and pass me on to the next
person, I was asked to change my user name etc because apparently a vast
amount of customers that do on line stuff with their accounts were also
getting the same emails, so it appears that not me but the bank got
hacked and was able to view the customers accounts but not able to get
the access information to remotely log in.
 
Just something to think about how some businesses are naive about the
technology..
 
I work a lot coding on Windows and I can think of a half dozen ways off
the top of head how to elude the user.
 
Jamie
"William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net>: Nov 30 10:27AM -0800

"Maynard A. Philbrook Jr." wrote in message
news:MPG.2ee518775cc435c1989b50@news.eternal-september.org...
 
> Did you ever figure out what exactly it was doing?
 
No. I caught my mistake almost immediately after making it, and killed the
process. About an hour later, Kaspersky found the file and deleted it
 
I was careless. But I'dordered an item from Costco Photo, and this looked like
a status message. My mistake was not paying attention to the sender -- who was
in Italy.
 
It never hurts to be overly suspicious. This was the first time something got
through in over a decade. I have been warned.
 
Oh... handy trick... I was badly attacked back in 2004. The attack included
malware that reinstalled itself at each restart. It occurred to me that if I
changed the files' permissions to be executed or rewritten, a lot of problems
would be solved. And they were. You don't need to remove a file -- just keep
it from running or being replaced with a newer version.
"Gareth Magennis" <gareth.magennis@ntlworld.com>: Nov 30 09:06PM

"William Sommerwerck" wrote in message news:m5ct8q$99a$1@dont-email.me...
 
To make a long story short... I accidentally opened an e-mail attachment I
shouldn't have. (I had a "good" reason for doing so.) Wondering if its
executable was lurking anywhere, I ran Process Explorer -- and there it was.
Two clicks, and it was gone.
 
I will, of course, double-check the next time I restart.
 
http://download.cnet.com/Process-Explorer/3000-2094_4-10223605.html
 
 
 
 
I had a mighty scare today on my laptop.
On booting, everything I tried to do resulted in an error message. I
couldn't access msconfig, control panel, the Start/Stop button on the
taskbar, System Restore, nothing. Right clicking the Start Menu did
nothing.
Kept saying something was trying to erase a registry entry or something.
 
Googling on my old laptop showed that with Win8, you can no longer get into
safe mode by pressing F8 whilst booting, is has to be achieved via Windows
actually allowing you to do this, and mine wasn't allowing me to do anything
at all. Nightmare.
 
 
After a lot of perseverance, I finally discovered there is another instance
of the Power Button if you press the Windows flaggy button to reveal all the
"apps", a feature I never use. Clicking this Power Button whilst holding
Shift finally allowed me to access System Restore.
Which worked.
 
 
I don't know how this happened, I don't think I clicked any dodgy attachment
and I don't do any dodgy websites, but I have been caught out in the past,
and since learnt to be very suspicious of most things.
 
The first error message I got was "Windows Live Mail Calendar is corrupted",
and Live Mail refused to run. This quickly progressed to the registry
error message on everything I then tried to do.
 
 
 
 
 
Gareth.
"Maynard A. Philbrook Jr." <jamie_ka1lpa@charter.net>: Nov 30 08:21PM -0500

In article <m5fnht$l5r$1@dont-email.me>, grizzledgeezer@comcast.net
says...
> changed the files' permissions to be executed or rewritten, a lot of problems
> would be solved. And they were. You don't need to remove a file -- just keep
> it from running or being replaced with a newer version.
 
I got an E-mail the other day from who claim to be a company of Amazon,
"Audible.com", it was short and brief and the hot link they gave me spit
out a URL that had nothing at all to do with Amazon or anything to do
with any one selling something. It look more like some hooky location.
 
Jamie
Ian Malcolm <See.My.Sig.for.email@totally.invalid>: Nov 30 07:47PM

>> and on again.
 
> But something kills the 3.3V supply after the 30 seconds, of normal
> use , ie not manually switching off, just not tapping any keys.
That is a horse of an entirely different colour. You didn't originally
mention the 3.3V rail goes away on auto-shutdown.
 
> Surely if the uC goes into sleep mode and then no load, the VR would
> still sit there with 3.3V on the output and 5uV standby consumption.
Yes.
 
> output line and see if on no load it also goes to 0V.
> How normal is it to short a VR and its smoothing electro in normal
> manual switch off? regardless of any uC or whatever
 
I cant imagine any sane designer deliberatly shorting the rail
electronically for anything other than crowbar protection circuits.
Also, there's nothing in the regulator datasheet to indicate it will
latch off.
 
Shorting the rail via a mechanical power switch that also disconnects the
supply is a different matter. In addition to avoiding reset problems, it
prevents the MCU being powered up via its protection diodes if any inputs
are present when the power switch is off.
 
 
 
 
--
Ian Malcolm. London, ENGLAND. (NEWSGROUP REPLY PREFERRED)
ianm[at]the[dash]malcolms[dot]freeserve[dot]co[dot]uk
[at]=@, [dash]=- & [dot]=. *Warning* HTML & >32K emails --> NUL
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