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alonerasool@gmail.com: Jun 09 03:42AM -0700 Hi there I'm repairing a variable smps based on SG3525 IC. the IC gets too hot and finally it burns away. what's the problem?

jurb6006@gmail.com: Jun 09 04:33AM -0700 > Hi there > I'm repairing a variable smps based on SG3525 IC. the IC gets too hot and finally it burns away. what's the problem?   That is like way too much not enough information.   Is it used to drive a transformer directly or transistors ? If directly, what about the load on the transformer, have you checked the rectifiers on the secondary ?   You have to give some fucking information to get help on shit like this. Does the thing, whatever it is, work but then it pops ? Or just fry out and not work ?   Get more info out here, and actually the duty cycle of the waveform it is putting out. Get a Dropbox account and use the \public directory for pics like this. When you try to use their picture thing it gets all fucked up.   And what is the make and model of this thing ? Unless it is some homebrew custom thing...   If you are unable to supply this information you have no business trying to fix the thing. If you have changed that IC fifty times you have no business trying to fix that thing.   When I ask for help here I got voltage readings, waveforms and all kinds of tricks I did to find out this and that. Sometimes it works ad sometimes nobody knows. You come in here with a post like that most people think you are a total noob and don't know shit.   Now it is up to you to prove otherwise. We can't read your mind or your scope, and you better have one. Of each.

N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Jun 09 12:53PM +0100 > Hi there > I'm repairing a variable smps based on SG3525 IC. the IC gets too hot and finally it burns away. what's the problem?   What frequency? what should it be?

Micky <NONONObobbyburns1111@gmail.com>: Jun 08 03:58PM -0400 [Default] On Wed, 8 Jun 2016 09:43:45 -0400, in microsoft.public.windowsxp.general Wolf K <wolfmac@sympatico.ca> wrote:   >> on. I ended up unplugging it from the adapter at least 10 times >> before it finally started working. And now it's been fine for hours.   >Avoid the problem: buy an uninterrupted power supply.   I have one, but I didn't think to connect the router to it. Thanks

Micky <NONONObobbyburns1111@gmail.com>: Jun 08 04:03PM -0400 [Default] On Wed, 8 Jun 2016 11:43:34 -0500, in microsoft.public.windowsxp.general Mark Lloyd <not@mail.invalid> wrote:     >BTW, I have seldom (if ever) benefited from reporting a power outage. >The system is usually busy from others reporting outages. However, I >still liked checking the map that shows outages.   I don't report them because I know there are others more impatient than I. I just sit in the dark. Plus these days, I wonder if they self-report?   I think night before last was just for a moment. I have a UPS on my DVDR, but it doesn't work as well as I'd hoped for, and iirc even with the UPS, the DVDR forgets what shows to record if the outage is more than a few moments. (testing would be very inconvenient.) Or I could compare with my analog clocks.

"Ian Field" <gangprobing.alien@ntlworld.com>: Jun 08 10:13PM +0100 "Micky" <NONONObobbyburns1111@gmail.com> wrote in message news:ojoelb93k3cdju7bep4hbepf7l9um5movb@4ax.com... > for my router failing after a power outage. Apparently it's not a > power surge but just normal unplugging and replugging that is bad for > many things (especially maybe if they can cool off in between).   Its fairly common for items with an SMPSU to have an inrush limiting NTC thermistor, these reduce in resistance when current flow heats them up - they take a few minutes to cool back to room temperature and return to the higher resistance.   They're mainly to limit the charging surge for the reservoir capacitor - some items don't have the NTC device, but don't seem to be conspicuously any less reliable.   After a certain manufacture date; anything over 50W had to have a PFC front end - basically a switch mode regulator that preceeds the reservoir capacitor - soft start is easier and cheaper to do electronically than include the NTC device.

Micky <NONONObobbyburns1111@gmail.com>: Jun 08 07:05PM -0400 [Default] On Wed, 8 Jun 2016 22:13:39 +0100, in microsoft.public.windowsxp.general "Ian Field" >end - basically a switch mode regulator that preceeds the reservoir >capacitor - soft start is easier and cheaper to do electronically than >include the NTC device.   Well this thing is pretty old. 8 years at least but I can't remember where I bought it. Maybe it was used. D-link DI-524

John McGaw <Nobody@Nowh.ere>: Jun 08 08:10PM -0400 On 6/7/2016 8:17 PM, Micky wrote: > plugged it in 3 times, ALL the lights on the router went on and stayed > on. I ended up unplugging it from the adapter at least 10 times > before it finally started working. And now it's been fine for hours.   It would seem that the logical thing would be to simply buy a new router from a good maker. If the router uses a 12V supply and your area has bad power problems something like a Belkin BU3DC001-12V instead of a 'normal' wall-wart supply might be advisable too if the plug is fully compatible. I use the Belkin on my AT&T modem (it came with one) and another on my main switch in the equipment room (I had a spare one just sitting there) while each of the computers has their own 1200VA AC UPS supplying it and any important ancillary network equipment, etc, in their vicinity. I have five of these AC UPS units. The power in my area really sucks big time and I eventually learned my lesson...   But I never did see any symptoms such as you describe -- everything reset fine after being powered off for a few seconds or when the reset button was pressed (in the old days where there were actual reset buttons on small network equipment).

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Jun 08 07:32PM -0700 On Wed, 08 Jun 2016 19:05:53 -0400, Micky   >Well this thing is pretty old. 8 years at least but I can't remember >where I bought it. Maybe it was used. D-link DI-524   Garbage. I had nothing but problems with that vintage D-Link hardware due to line glitches. The stock 5V 2.5A JTA0302B power supply is a known headache. They tend to last about 3-5 years before the capacitors bulge. If you put a scope on the PS line, you'll find it full of switching trash. If you're good at brain surgery and working in tight spaces, you can possibly fix it.   This is unusual, but cute: <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oMVyFy_pb7E> (1:41)   Look through the Linksys refurbished collection for a cheap replacement: <http://stores.ebay.com/Linksys-Official-Store?_dmd=2&_nkw=refurbished>   -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

Micky <NONONObobbyburns1111@gmail.com>: Jun 09 12:16AM -0400 On Wed, 08 Jun 2016 19:32:39 -0700, Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com> wrote:   >due to line glitches. The stock 5V 2.5A JTA0302B power supply is a >known headache. They tend to last about 3-5 years before the >capacitors bulge.   Yeah, now I r emember that we talked about capacitors (on electonics repair) the last time, and I cracked it open and looked, but I didnt' seen any that looked swollen. Maybe I just don't know how to look.   And my experience is consistent with yours, 2 bad ones in 8 years. Last time, after the new power supply came via Ebay, it dawned on me that I'd bought a spare at a hamfest, but I went to look at it, and it had no wifi, only routing, and the power supply wasn't with it. But then a few months later, I found a brand new, still wrapped in cellophane, same thing as I'm using. I'd forgotten I had both. So I know where to get a 3rd powersupply and if it blows, I'll go back to the Ambico Universal Digital Camera AC Adaptor, 2100mA, with 4 different tips** and voltages from 3 to 7 volts. I paid $9 for it 20 years ago for just this sort of situation.   **tubular tips, none of which would fit any digital camera made these days, because they are all USB, aren't they? Even many of the brands of camera they list don't make cameras anymore, afaik: Hewlitt Packard, Vivitar, Kodak, Minolta, Epson. Epson?   > If you put a scope on the PS line, you'll find it >full of switching trash. If you're good at brain surgery and working >in tight spaces, you can possibly fix it.   I'm working on it, but when I get good at brain surgery, I plan to be a brain surgeon.

"Ron D." <Ron.Dozier@gmail.com>: Jun 08 10:25PM -0700 Quote from someone   But I never did see any symptoms such as you describe -- everything reset fine after being powered off for a few seconds or when the reset button was pressed (in the old days where there were actual reset buttons on small network equipment).   Seen those sort of symptoms all of the time. Power glitching is a good reason for them. If there's no backup batteries within the device, pull the adapter and short the input to the router for at least 39 seconds. I've resurrected a number of things this way. The last device was a wireless mouse. Did the "short trick" overnight and it worked. Usually 30s to 1 minute usually works.   The method has a good reason why it works. I also resurrected a automobile clock that died shortly after a jump start. A bit harder and it was never removed from the dash.

whit3rd <whit3rd@gmail.com>: Jun 08 11:25AM -0700 On Tuesday, June 7, 2016 at 5:10:12 PM UTC-7, Micky wrote:   > [about a suspect capacitor] I'll replace it. Easy enough.   > 16volts 1000uF, I suppose the bag of caps in the basement for the last > 30 years are too old to use???? If so I'll buy a new one.   If you have a suitable (15VDC, but 10V or 24V would work, too) power source, clip it onto a few old capacitors overnight. The next morning, unclip 'em, wait a few seconds, and any that make your voltmeter jump, are good to use.   Even if an old electrolytic doesn't meet its original specs after storage, it DOES heal if you give it a voltage bias. I've done it in minutes with overvoltage and a heat gun, but overnight at room temperature is good enough. The capacitor needs applied voltage and time to re-form its oxide layer.

Micky <NONONObobbyburns1111@gmail.com>: Jun 08 07:00PM -0400 On Wed, 8 Jun 2016 11:25:48 -0700 (PDT), whit3rd <whit3rd@gmail.com> wrote:     >> 16volts 1000uF, I suppose the bag of caps in the basement for the last >> 30 years are too old to use???? If so I'll buy a new one.   >If you have a suitable (15VDC, but 10V or 24V would work, too) power source,   The adapter for my laptop is 17v or thereabouts. I presume the negative side goes to the negative on the capacitor?   >heal if you give it a voltage bias. I've done it in minutes with overvoltage >and a heat gun, but overnight at room temperature is good enough. The capacitor needs applied >voltage and time to re-form its oxide layer.   All very good, thank you. a) one cap is expensive by mail, plus the postage. (Time is not much of a factor anymore. Mail order is a lot faster than 50 years ago.) b) There was no point to saving these capacitors if I can't use them anymore. c) There is only one store in Baltimore that woudl have this and they fairly far away and expensive. Hmm. Radio Shack is still in business, sort of. (They used to have the best webpage, that said everything a specific store had and how many of them. When I bought one, the number on the web went down.) Well they sell the part but I've waited 10 minutes and "Find in Store" never loads.   But I'll start with what I already have.

"Ian Field" <gangprobing.alien@ntlworld.com>: Jun 08 08:02PM +0100 "Johann Klammer" <klammerj@NOSPAM.a1.net> wrote in message news:nj8ua1$a95$1@gioia.aioe.org...   >> Thanks for any help. > <http://formfactors.org/developer/specs/Power_Supply_Design_Guide_Desktop_Platform_Rev_1_2.pdf>(page23) > <https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ATX>   Thanks - the first link gave a 404, the Wiki page had the info.

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Micky <NONONObobbyburns1111@gmail.com>: Jun 07 08:17PM -0400 On one of these groups, I posted about 6 months ago about the adapter for my router failing after a power outage. Apparently it's not a power surge but just normal unplugging and replugging that is bad for many things (especially maybe if they can cool off in between). I used a universal adapter for a while and bought the exact replacement adapter, with the D-Link label, on Ebay. Everything fine.   Last night we had another power failure and today, after futile attempts to get my mail, I see that none of the lights on the router are on. I hadn't even gotten around to taking the universal adapter back to it's drawer in the basement!   So I switched to that and it didnt' work, but after I unplugged and plugged it in 3 times, ALL the lights on the router went on and stayed on. I ended up unplugging it from the adapter at least 10 times before it finally started working. And now it's been fine for hours.

"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Jun 08 03:53AM -0700 On Tuesday, June 7, 2016 at 8:17:12 PM UTC-4, Micky wrote: > plugged it in 3 times, ALL the lights on the router went on and stayed > on. I ended up unplugging it from the adapter at least 10 times > before it finally started working. And now it's been fine for hours.   A cold reboot requires that all the capacitors (ALL of them) are fully drained within the unit. This can take sometimes a few seconds, sometimes hours. And why it is when doing a cold reboot one holds down the start button for 30 seconds prior to actually connecting power. This helps discharge those capacitors.   Next time, before connecting the wall wart, try holding down the start button for 30 - 90 seconds.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

legg <legg@nospam.magma.ca>: Jun 08 07:44AM -0500 On Tue, 07 Jun 2016 20:17:00 -0400, Micky >plugged it in 3 times, ALL the lights on the router went on and stayed >on. I ended up unplugging it from the adapter at least 10 times >before it finally started working. And now it's been fine for hours.   As a general rule, based on typical product design of older equipment, a power reset is only reliably achieved through disconnection of power for a few minutes. I use a 5 minute rule, based on worst case experience with larger machines - with experience this can be reduced.   Reset buttons and even on-off switches can not always be counted on to do this.   If you only want to do this only once, it's worth the extra wait, particularly if there are many suspect devices (including PCs) in the possible fault chain. With experience, some fault-specific components in the chain may be identified to reduce any running around.   RL

Wolf K <wolfmac@sympatico.ca>: Jun 08 09:43AM -0400 On 2016-06-07 20:17, Micky wrote: > plugged it in 3 times, ALL the lights on the router went on and stayed > on. I ended up unplugging it from the adapter at least 10 times > before it finally started working. And now it's been fine for hours.   Avoid the problem: buy an uninterrupted power supply.   Have a good day,   -- Best, Wolf K kirkwood40.blogspot.ca

"David E. Ross" <nobody@nowhere.invalid>: Jun 08 07:39AM -0700 On 6/7/2016 5:17 PM, Micky wrote: > plugged it in 3 times, ALL the lights on the router went on and stayed > on. I ended up unplugging it from the adapter at least 10 times > before it finally started working. And now it's been fine for hours.   By any chance, are you on Southern California Edison (SCE)?   Despite being plugged into a surge suppressor, a SCE outage late last year fried my router, possibly when power was restored. I had to go out and buy a new one. SCE denied any responsibility and refused to reimburse the cost of the router. All they did was apologize for the inconvenience. Last Saturday, we had another SCE outage. I rushed to unplug my router before the electricity came back on. This time, my router survived.   SCE has outages sufficiently often, that I refuse to surrender my land-line phone service. AT&T powers the phones independently of SCE, which means I can call SCE when there is an outage. Such calls are impossible during an outage with VoIP phone service, and even some cell towers die when SCE dies.   SCE repeatedly tells me that I can report outages through their Web site. It does not tell me how to reach their Web site when my PC, my router, my modem, and the Internet cable service all fail to work without electricity.   -- David E. Ross <http://www.rossde.com/>.   Donald Trump claims he is a successful businessman. If so, how does he explain the number of his enterprises that have gone bankrupt?

Wolf K <wolfmac@sympatico.ca>: Jun 08 11:29AM -0400 On 2016-06-08 10:39, David E. Ross wrote: [...] > site. It does not tell me how to reach their Web site when my PC, my > router, my modem, and the Internet cable service all fail to work > without electricity.   Get an Uninterruptible Power Supply. Essential protection IMO. Get one large enough to power your computer, the wi-fi, and the modem for 10 minutes or so, plus a USB cable and software to shut down the computer in your absence.   -- Best, Wolf K kirkwood40.blogspot.ca

Mark Lloyd <not@mail.invalid>: Jun 08 11:43AM -0500 On 06/08/2016 09:39 AM, David E. Ross wrote:   [snip]   > site. It does not tell me how to reach their Web site when my PC, my > router, my modem, and the Internet cable service all fail to work > without electricity.   During the last multi-day power outage here, I was using a laptop and mobile hotspot. I ram my generator only part of the time to keep them charged.   BTW, I have seldom (if ever) benefited from reporting a power outage. The system is usually busy from others reporting outages. However, I still liked checking the map that shows outages.   -- Mark Lloyd http://notstupid.us/   "If the answers to prayer are merely what God wills all along, then why pray?" Dan Barker, Losing Faith in Faith: From Preacher to Atheist (Madison, WI: FFRF, 1992), p. 108.

"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Jun 07 02:48PM -0700 > how tell ?   > is either pin grnd-pwr ?   > https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipNrdTQBNCwsS1ZJ85A2oBzhzAWf7oZ1B-iTQkit   If the contacts (Usually push-on make connectors) are both isolated from the body of the horn, it makes no difference which one is "hot" and which one is "ground". But, use a VOM to check each terminal for continuity to the mounting studs - and if there is continuity, that one will be the Ground.   Pretty basic if this is for an automotive application where the frame often serves as a common ground. But, again, these days, alarm systems try to isolate key components and provide separate grounds so that they are less easily defeated.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

Allodoxaphobia <knock_yourself_out@example.net>: Jun 07 10:36PM > how tell ? > is either pin grnd-pwr ?   > https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipNrdTQBNCwsS1ZJ85A2oBzhzAWf7oZ1B-iTQkit   "Sign in with your Google Account"   Are you freakin' kidding!!!!!!!!

avagadro7@gmail.com: Jun 08 07:00AM -0700 > how tell ?   > is either pin grnd-pwr ?   > https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipNrdTQBNCwsS1ZJ85A2oBzhzAWf7oZ1B-iTQkit   the 'S' on https: blocks transmission into various servers. Remove the S and retry.   No continuity. I found, and not this morning, a small chart in Goo Images defining the horn back as either post for +/-   I have forgotten why that was so decribed ....duh   now I find a method for the higher level Hella horn   scroll down into   http://mazda3revolution.com/forums/2014-2016-mazda-3-skyactiv-how-guides/40209-diy-installing-hella-horns-2014-mazda-3-a.html   Trying to hook an Omega alarm system into a intermittent blow horn mode with relay for power from batt...horn is on van roof....with flasher on ground side horn. The wiring works but shortly...blowing 2 dorman hi decibel horns.   local goons broke into van n crosswired relays....they have a tech....after hearing the horn go off at Walmart.   We then moved shopping to the adjacent town.

avagadro7@gmail.com: Jun 08 07:01AM -0700 > Trying to hook an Omega alarm system into a intermittent blow horn mode with relay for power from batt...horn is on van roof....with flasher on ground side horn. The wiring works but shortly...blowing 2 dorman hi decibel horns.   > local goons broke into van n crosswired relays....they have a tech....after hearing the horn go off at Walmart.   > We then moved shopping to the adjacent town.   expected the pin numbers indicating grnd power in Euro style.

"Ian Field" <gangprobing.alien@ntlworld.com>: Jun 07 07:58PM +0100 Does anyone know how much ripple/spike amplitude is acceptable on the outputs?   Thanks for any help.

Johann Klammer <klammerj@NOSPAM.a1.net>: Jun 08 01:07PM +0200 On 06/07/2016 08:58 PM, Ian Field wrote: > Does anyone know how much ripple/spike amplitude is acceptable on the outputs?   > Thanks for any help. <http://formfactors.org/developer/specs/Power_Supply_Design_Guide_Desktop_Platform_Rev_1_2.pdf>(page23) <https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ATX>

Micky <NONONObobbyburns1111@gmail.com>: Jun 07 01:40PM -0400 Is this problem too easy for you guys? I know I'm not up to the level of most of you, but I'd appreciate some help?     I have a pair of computer speakers and the left? one, the one not directly connected to the computer, makes no sound.   The wire must be good because its LED goes on. I finally got it apart (it was glued together) and it has very few parts. The speaker measures 4 ohms and all that leaves is the wires, the tiny pcb, the LED and one 1000uF 16v cap. It seems that all the sound goes through that, is that right? So it could be the problem that it's open.   How come a cap is needed? To protect the sound card? 4 ohms is not enough to protect it? Speakers can short?     I replaced the good speaker with old NIB Jensens at least as big, but I think the sound is worse with stereo speakers than it was with one speaker. Maybe I'm imagining it, but if I fix the 2nd speaker I can find out if I am or not. The old ones are Harmon Kardon and the speaker is only 2 or 2 1/4" but the magnet is really heavy.   Thanks

Ralph Mowery <rmowery28146@earthlink.net>: Jun 07 02:06PM -0400 In article <dm1elbl741lprp9e3ke4phf1ln09g3t8il@4ax.com>, NONONObobbyburns1111@gmail.com says... > that, is that right? So it could be the problem that it's open.   > How come a cap is needed? To protect the sound card? 4 ohms is not > enough to protect it? Speakers can short?   Some amplifiers have the output that must be above the DC ground so the capaciotr is used to pass the audio but block the DC.   That is for the output there will sometims be two transistors sort of in series between the plus and minus of the power supply. If you short or have a low value of resistance such as the speaker from that point to either the supply voltage or the ground it will blow the transistor, so the capacitor is used.   You could have a bad capacitor, wires, or the amplifier is bad.

Jeroni Paul <JERONI.PAUL@terra.es>: Jun 07 03:23PM -0700 Correct, the sound goes through the capacitor. It seems the amplifier sends a DC voltage to light up the led together with the audio signal. So if the led shines the wire is fine and the sound may be lost.in the capacitor. Make sure you are sending an audio signal into the silent channel.

Micky <NONONObobbyburns1111@gmail.com>: Jun 07 08:10PM -0400 Combo answer to you and Ralph   On Tue, 7 Jun 2016 15:23:32 -0700 (PDT), Jeroni Paul   >Correct, the sound goes through the capacitor. It seems the amplifier sends a DC voltage to light up the led together with the audio signal. So if the led shines the wire is fine and the sound may be lost.in the capacitor.   Great. I'll replace it. Easy enough.   16volts 1000uF, I suppose the bag of caps in the basement for the last 30 years are too old to use???? If so I'll buy a new one.   > Make sure you are sending an audio signal into the silent channel.   The sound card has both channels because I changed speakers and sound comes out of both now.   That still leaves the possibility that something about the first-pair speaker that works broke and it didn't pass the sound on to the other one. They use different channels of the same amplifier.   But it was hard** to open the speaker, so I'll do the cap first.   **A friend wanted just one speaker, to put in his kitchen, with a wire through the wall from the next room -- Yes, I suggested wireless speakers but he wasn't interested -- I don't know if the stereo issue has occurred to him, but he insisted one speaker***. So I'm giving him the one that works, and if I fix the other one, I'll offer it to him too. Back to opening the speaker: took out the two screws in the back, scraped off the label in back but couldn't find another. Tried to take off the speaker grill but it wouldn't come. A couple days later, tried harder and broke two of the 4 plastic pegs that held it in. Then I see that those two were glued in. Maybe it was falling off, or maybe they're glued in at the factory. So I really don't want to mess with the speaker that's still working, esp. since he wants only one.   ***So whether he knows he needs it or not, I've been looking for software that will play a webstream and convert stereo to monaural. I found one or two, so to test, I dl'd an MP3 of a train going from left to right and back again. Sadly, on my system even in stereo it doesn't sound like stereo. I have to work on that!   Thanks, both of you.

Micky <NONONObobbyburns1111@gmail.com>: Jun 07 09:03PM -0400 On Tue, 07 Jun 2016 20:10:00 -0400, Micky   >Great. I'll replace it. Easy enough.   >16volts 1000uF, I suppose the bag of caps in the basement for the last >30 years are too old to use???? If so I'll buy a new one.   Somewhat interesting stories here, including one guy who had never soldered anything, but replaced 2 caps and made his tv work. He had to buy a soldering iron. He watched videos first.   http://www.amazon.com/1000uf-Capacitor-High-Radial-Leads/product-reviews/B004O21PPE/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_hist_5?ie=UTF8&filterByStar=five_star&showViewpoints=0&pageNumber=1

whit3rd <whit3rd@gmail.com>: Jun 07 01:19PM -0700 On Friday, May 27, 2016 at 2:59:25 PM UTC-7, Jon Elson wrote:   > I have a digital caliper that uses an MS76 cell. Seems to have the same > problem, battery used to last well over a year, now it lasts a few weeks, > maybe. I just take it out when not in use.   There are LR44 alkaline batteries,and silver batteries in the same size designated SR44. And there's a dozen or so pseudonyms for each of the types. MS76 is not in the short list here:   <https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/LR44_battery>   Most inexpensive calipers (mine, at least) that use these cells, are not ever truly turned OFF. Pulling the battery out during idle time is a good plan (until you damage the battery door).   To make matters worse, battery prices range from $5 to $0.05, and might not be indicative of quality.

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avagadro7@gmail.com: Jun 07 09:46AM -0700 Hella horn for an intermittent alarm.   which pin is ground ?   how tell ?   is either pin grnd-pwr ?   https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipNrdTQBNCwsS1ZJ85A2oBzhzAWf7oZ1B-iTQkit

John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Jun 07 09:51AM -0700 > how tell ?   > is either pin grnd-pwr ?   > https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipNrdTQBNCwsS1ZJ85A2oBzhzAWf7oZ1B-iTQkit   No picture (bad link).   Usually alarm horns are polarized - perhaps one pin has a red dot (positive)?   Or do a search online for that make and model, pretty good chance someone has put up the info you need!   Like this:   https://www.hella.co.nz/en/products/accessories/horns/   John :-#)#   -- (Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup) John's Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9 (604)872-5757 or Fax 872-2010 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) www.flippers.com "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."

"Percival P. Cassidy" <Nobody@NotMyISP.net>: Jun 06 06:20PM -0400 On 05/15/2016 05:39 AM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:   > is compatible. I think you can take it from here.   > I still think your fan that doesn't spin is defective.   > 2:30AM. Maybe I should get some sleep...   I did satisfy myself that the non-spinning fan was in fact defective, and the seller (in China) refunded my money for that one fan. And as far as I could find out, the 3rd wire on the original Delta fans put out a "spinning" signal.   I now have a couple of KDE1204PKV3-MS.AR.GN fans from a different vendor (nothing against the first one, but he didn't have the "AR" ones), and they spin just fine, but the fan LED is reddish with flashes of green rather than steady green. I guess I'll just put up with that.   Perce

jennschaubel@gmail.com: Jun 06 12:28PM -0700 On Tuesday, October 22, 2013 at 4:08:19 PM UTC-4, SharpShooter wrote:   > I am unable to trace where/why the 5 volts from this board is NOT coming to the connector. There is another set of long connector on this main board which receives power from the power supply and that shows the relevant 12v and 5 v Dc at that point.   > So in short, the main-graphic board that also powers the dvd is not giving 5v dc output to the DVD player - which i believe also powers the switches - and thus the TV is perhaps frozen in standby mode ( I am not sure of that) No remote so I cannot take it out of the standby mode - also ALL the switches are non responsive.   > Any help will be appreciated.   Do you still have this TV or do you possibly have the base for it?

Micky <NONONObobbyburns1111@gmail.com>: Jun 06 01:09PM -0400 On Mon, 6 Jun 2016 09:55:09 +0200, Look165 <look165@numericable.fr> wrote:   >Wires, alwayx wires.   >The indirect speaker is just a "passive" box with a speaker.   >Maybe speaker's winding is broken (still wire ! )   The speaker shows 4 ohms. The LED on the (plastic) cabinet goes on, powered by the other speaker. The only other wires are the traces on the circuit board and 2" wires that never move from the pcb to the speaker.   But if it's not possible for the capacitor to be causing this problem, I'll look at the pcb and short wires too.   It's not my imagination, is it, that all the sound goes through the 1000uF cap?   The speakers were upstairs when I took the computer to the basement to repair it, and they weren't used for a couple years.

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