Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 7 updates in 3 topics

Shams <shams.i.arefin@gmail.com>: Nov 07 11:27AM -0800

Incredible! I was looking at a machine today going for 100 dollars. Should I not buy it then? sorry i am 20 years too late to this thread. I also was wondering if these machines can play PAL tapes? Thanks!
Adrian Caspersz <email@here.invalid>: Nov 08 06:24AM

On 07/11/2021 19:27, Shams wrote:
> Incredible! I was looking at a machine today going for 100 dollars. Should I not buy it then? sorry i am 20 years too late to this thread. I also was wondering if these machines can play PAL tapes? Thanks!
 
I'll bite. (You've added no context to the original post, amd I'm not
looking)
 
28 years old, probably filled with caps that will need replacing.
 
Does it have a timebase corrector? So professional, or Sony hype?
 
FULLY RESTORED Sony SLV-R5UC Stereo HiFi S-VHS VCR Auto-Tracking *90
Days Wrty
https://www.ebay.com/itm/193877871382
 
 
--
Adrian C
prc1@nowhere.net: Nov 07 08:51PM -0500

"Noise bursts" = static. One second's worth, then silence, then
another burst.
 
On Fri, 5 Nov 2021 14:32:40 -0700 (PDT), Phil Allison
prc1@nowhere.net: Nov 07 08:53PM -0500

Thanks! It's a start. I'll give it a look, though the power output is
way more than the NU1000DSP.
 
Michael Terrell <terrell.michael.a@gmail.com>: Nov 07 11:09AM -0800


> ** Sure, Heathkit = Tek
 
In the case of using aluminum cabinets, yes they are.
 
> Who fucking knew ..................
 
Obviously, not you.
 
Your ignorance is showing again. The only steel cased scope I ever knowingly owned was an RCA. It was so old they called it an oscillograph. I've seen the Philco and Sylvania versions of the 3" WWII military scopes that were crammed into tiny steel boxes. I wouldn't even use one for audio work. They sat on a shelf at TV shops for decades because no one would use them.
 
Heathkit used aluminum, because they could produce their cabinets in house with simpler machine tools. Just because you are ignorant doesn't change any facts. Heathkit also had to consider shipping costs, since hey sold to hobbyists and repair shops where their only advantage over other kit suppliers was maybe a dollar or two. Therefore, they were more compact and lighter than failed companies like EICO. My first scope was an EICO 460 that was given to me because the CRT filament winding was shorted to the core. It was twice as heavy as a similar Heathkit, and not as well designed.
 
Heathkit got into electronic kits after WWII when there were millions of pounds of military grade components being sold for pennies on the pound. New CRTs were well under a dollar, so the designed a scope from what they could get.
 
Their prior products included a small, single engine airplane and furniture kits. They also sold electric organ kits, based on commercial products where you coukld save 1/3 to 1/2 overt the retail price by assembling the kit. A far cry from Dick Smith in OZ.
 
Take your meds and stop acting like a six year old. You can be a decent guy at times, but every time someone brings up something that you don't know about, you go nuts.
Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Nov 07 12:21PM -0800

terrell....@gmail.com wrote:
===================
 
 
> > ** Sure, Heathkit = Tek
 
> In the case of using aluminum cabinets, yes they are.
 
** Childish drivel.
 
> > Who fucking knew ..................
 
> Obviously, not you.
 
** Pure idiocy.
 
> Your ignorance is showing again.
 
** No it isn't.
 
> The only steel cased scope I ever knowingly owned was an RCA.
 
** Poor diddums - could not afford a good, steel case one ......
 
FYI: Steel has both strength & magnetic qualities that are an advantage with CRT scopes.
 
> Heathkit used aluminum, because they could produce their cabinets in house with simpler machine tools.
 
** Yep - steel is way better but a bit harder to work.
 
> Just because you are ignorant doesn't change any facts.
 
** ROTFL - this jerkoff knows no bounds.
 
 
> Take your meds and stop acting like a six year old.
 
** FFS this just gets funnier and funnier !!!!
 
> You can be a decent guy at times,
 
** Shame that cannot be ever said about a bullshitting, Septic asshole like you.
 
Drop dead.
Michael Terrell <terrell.michael.a@gmail.com>: Nov 07 03:51PM -0800


> Drop dead.
 
You and Sloman make all Australians look like fools.
You received this digest because you're subscribed to updates for this group. You can change your settings on the group membership page.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it send an email to sci.electronics.repair+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com.

Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 8 updates in 2 topics

Mike S <mscir@yahoo.com>: Nov 06 08:03PM -0700

> I have two of these amps that exhibit either digital noise bursts on
> the outputs or no sound at all. I've looked everywhere but can't seem
> to get schemataics or a service manual. Can anyone help? Thanks.
 
I know this is not for your model but I thought it might be similar
enough to be useful. Sorry it isn't for your model, that searching came
up with nothing.
 
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1366970/Behringer-Inuke-Nu6000dsp.html#manual
Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Nov 06 08:12PM -0700

Mike S wrote:
===========
> enough to be useful. Sorry it isn't for your model, that searching came
> up with nothing.
 
> https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1366970/Behringer-Inuke-Nu6000dsp.html#manual
 
** Wow !! A Behringer amp schem on line !

My eyes water trying to read the details though ....
 
FYI
 
That amp sells here in Australia new for a tad over $800.
Genuine 3000W per channel.
 
The similar model I saw did over 4000W.
Still basically a throw away product.
 
 
 
..... Phil
Jeff Layman <jmlayman@invalid.invalid>: Nov 07 09:00AM

On 07/11/2021 03:12, Phil Allison wrote:
 
>> https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1366970/Behringer-Inuke-Nu6000dsp.html#manual
 
> ** Wow !! A Behringer amp schem on line !
 
> My eyes water trying to read the details though ....
 
Yep. Those online versions at manualslib aren't exactly user-friendly.
But you can download the pdf and view that at 500%+ to give a pretty
clear view.
 
--
 
Jeff
Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Nov 07 01:09AM -0800

Jeff Layman wrote:
=================
 
> Yep. Those online versions at manualslib aren't exactly user-friendly.
> But you can download the pdf and view that at 500%+ to give a pretty
> clear view.
 
 
** Done - it's crystal clear now !
 
Thanks, very muchly.
 
 
..... Phil
Michael Terrell <terrell.michael.a@gmail.com>: Nov 06 11:41AM -0700


> 2. The steel case is magnetized - deflecting the trace.
 
> See if removing the cover makes a difference.
 
> BTW I could not find any internal pic on the net.
 
Heathkit used aluminum for most of their cabinets.
The CRT has a MuMetal shield.
 
Do you have a schematic and a real oscilloscope?
http://www.rsp-italy.it/Electronics/Kits/_contents/Heathkit/Kits/Heathkit%20IO-20%20ignition%20analyzer.pdf
 
I see a NE2 neon and a diode used in previous stages that could affect linearity, but I don't have a parts list. There is a pot off the Neon lap marked 'Right Adjust'.
 
Fair Radio still has some unused 5UP1 CRTs
https://fairradio.com/product/5up1/
 
There is currently another IO-20 on Ebay, less the probes.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/174516063489
Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Nov 06 03:19PM -0700

terrell....@gmail.com wrote:
=========================
 
> > See if removing the cover makes a difference.
 
> > BTW I could not find any internal pic on the net.
 
> Heathkit used aluminum for most of their cabinets.
 
** So what ? This one may not be part of that "most".
CRT scopes with Aluminium cases are rare as hell.
 
> The CRT has a MuMetal shield.
 
** How do you know that ?
Another inspired guess ?
 
> Do you have a schematic and a real oscilloscope?
 
** Huh ?
 
> I see a NE2 neon and a diode used in previous stages that could affect linearity, but I don't have a parts list.
 
** The OP is clueless and posting contradictory, total nonsense.
So are you.
 
 
..... Phil
Michael Terrell <terrell.michael.a@gmail.com>: Nov 06 10:31PM -0700


> > Heathkit used aluminum for most of their cabinets.
> ** So what ? This one may not be part of that "most".
> CRT scopes with Aluminium cases are rare as hell.
 
Maybe in Oz. HP and Tektronix used a lot of aluminum for their oscilloscope cabinets. Those aren't rare, among engineers or real techs.
 
> > The CRT has a MuMetal shield.
 
> ** How do you know that ?
 
From the photos that I linked to.
 
> > I see a NE2 neon and a diode used in previous stages that could affect linearity, but I don't have a parts list.
> ** The OP is clueless and posting contradictory, total nonsense.
> So are you.
 
Sigh, you are the queen of posting nonsense.
 
Look at the photos in the Ebay link that I posted and see inside the IO-20 for yourself. I've repaired a lot of Heathkit equipment, and most of it used aluminum, except for some stereo equipment. They sold wood cabinets to cover a bare steel chassis, or you could build them into custom cabinets.
 
I built my first Heathkit about 55 years ago. I built dozens for myself, and others.
 
I also used a Heathkit color bar generator to transmit a color station ID from a black and white TV station. I genlocked it to our master Sync Generator, then used the monochrome video keyer to add color to a B&W 35mm slide. The information was displayed on the AFRTS page of the US DOD website for about a decade, before they purged all the shared emails.
 
The other links included a schematic for the OP and a source for a new CRT, if needed.
 
A working scope is quite handy when repairing an ailing scope.
Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Nov 07 12:45AM -0700

terrell....@gmail.com wrote:
======================
 
> > ** So what ? This one may not be part of that "most".
> > CRT scopes with Aluminium cases are rare as hell.
 
> Maybe in Oz. HP and Tektronix
 
 
** Sure, Heathkit = Tek
 
Who fucking knew ..................
 

> A working scope is quite handy when repairing an ailing scope.
 
** The fuckwit OP's scope is NOT ailing in the way he claimed.
 
Did you miss his U-tube ?

Vid worth a million false words.

 
 
......... Phil
You received this digest because you're subscribed to updates for this group. You can change your settings on the group membership page.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it send an email to sci.electronics.repair+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com.

Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 11 updates in 4 topics

vjp2.at@at.BioStrategist.dot.dot.com: Nov 06 06:31AM

Why is it in DVD players the first thing to fail is always the screen and not
the motor? Well, at tleast the screen shows stuff but all fuzz and
stuff. THis has happened to me with maybe four portable DVD players in the
past fifteen years. Whereas portable TVs always seem to die by losing
audio. I had two pocket one inch BW LCD TVs that lasted two decades. It this
really progress?
 
--
Vasos Panagiotopoulos, Columbia'81+, Reagan, Mozart, Pindus
blog: panix.com/~vjp2/ruminatn.htm - = - web: panix.com/~vjp2/vasos.htm
facebook.com/vasjpan2 - linkedin.com/in/vasjpan02 - biostrategist.com
---{Nothing herein constitutes advice. Everything fully disclaimed.}---
Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Nov 05 11:39PM -0700

vjp...@at.biostrategist.dot.dot.com wrote:
==================================
> past fifteen years. Whereas portable TVs always seem to die by losing
> audio. I had two pocket one inch BW LCD TVs that lasted two decades. It this
> really progress?
 
** I have a CD player that I bought in May 1983.
An original model Sony CDP101.
 
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sony_CDP-101#/media/File:CDP101a.jpg
 
Use it regularly and it works great with CD ROMs too.
 
Paid A$1100 for it back then.
Maybe you *do* get what you pay for.....
 
 
 
.... Phil
Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Nov 05 11:07PM -0700

Hi,
 
this is what our OP has got:
 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GDUf0Pqi8Do
 
See how it precariously it sits while in use ?
 
A real " Humpty Dumpty " event waiting to happen.
 
Nice, sharp image but.
 
 
.... Phil
Mike Hooker <mhooker32@gmail.com>: Nov 05 06:20PM -0700


> > > ..... Phil
> > the 470k resistors are good, and i have the 350v at the rail. still stumped.
> Check R39, 40, 48, 50 all 22K each and check R45 and 47, 100 ohms each. The 12BH7 could be bad.
i checked every resistor, all check good. i checked the pots, all good. i checked the voltage to a and b terminals on the crt, close to whats listed on the schematic. whats makes this different than a bench scope is it has no internal trigger. it is only triggered externally by an inductive pick up. same for the vertical , another pick up. one problem is i dont know how to induce anything to get it do do something on the bench other than a dot. however, if i turn it on, you can see the dot dive bomb to the right, and then come back from right to center. seems to me that indicates the crt is working ok. i posted a video on youtube.
 
https://youtu.be/be-Nae-sIYQ
 
still , when hooked to an 8 cyl engine, i get a normal image from left to center. from center to right it appears to be collapsed or squished toward the center. where the pattern ends at the center, the line is fairly thick and intense, like a partial collapse of a cga crt.monitor. thanks for any input.
Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Nov 05 06:36PM -0700

mhoo...@gmail.com wrote:
 
=======================
 
** Why did you tell us you had an IO-10 ???
 

> > > > > have an old heathkit io-10 auto ignition oscilloscope.
 
 
.... Phil
Mike Hooker <mhooker32@gmail.com>: Nov 05 07:42PM -0700


> ** Why did you tell us you had an IO-10 ???
> > > > > > have an old heathkit io-10 auto ignition oscilloscope.
> .... Phil
it was either a typo or lack of sleep. not from this problem though.
sorry bout that
Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Nov 05 08:19PM -0700

mhoo...@gmail.com wrote:
=======================
> > ..
> it was either a typo or lack of sleep. not from this problem though.
> sorry bout that
 
** Start again - the io-20 is a COMPLETELY different animal !!!
 
If all the tubes are OK and the voltage too - not much is left but the CRT.
 
Two possibilities:
 
1. Because of being used around cars, it is likely to have fallen onto a hard surface once or twice.
 
2. The steel case is magnetised - deflecting the trace.
 
See if removing the cover makes a difference.
 
BTW I could not find any internal pic on the net.
 
 
 
... Phil
Mike Hooker <mhooker32@gmail.com>: Nov 05 09:28PM -0700


> See if removing the cover makes a difference.
 
> BTW I could not find any internal pic on the net.
 
> ... Phil
i considered it may have been dropped. did you look at the video? im thinking if one of the defectors was damaged, the trace wouldnt move the way it does when it starts up, but maybe im off on that.
Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Nov 05 09:36PM -0700

mhoo...@gmail.com wrote:
=====================
 
> i considered it may have been dropped. did you look at the video?
> im thinking if one of the defectors was damaged,
> the trace wouldnt move the way it does when it starts up, but maybe im off on that.
 
** I see nothing unusual for a tube scope start up in your vid.
 
What you claimed in you OP and now is false.
The dot quickly centers then moves off to the left slowly.
Perfect.
 
 
..... Phil
prc1@woh.rr.com: Nov 05 05:18PM -0400

I have two of these amps that exhibit either digital noise bursts on
the outputs or no sound at all. I've looked everywhere but can't seem
to get schemataics or a service manual. Can anyone help? Thanks.
Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Nov 05 02:32PM -0700

pr...@woh.rr.com wrote:
======================
 
> I have two of these amps that exhibit either digital noise bursts on
> the outputs or no sound at all. I've looked everywhere but can't seem
> to get schemataics or a service manual.
 
** Behringer are very secretive about their products - no schems or manuals are published nor are any spares available to the public.
 
I have seen one of the " iNuke" amps on my bench a while back and deemed it as being next to unrepairable.
You need to track down a Behringer repair agent and see what they say.

Saying "digital noise bursts on the outputs " makes no sense at all.
Did you means high frequency bursts?
Pretty normal for Class D stuff.
 
 
..... Phil
You received this digest because you're subscribed to updates for this group. You can change your settings on the group membership page.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it send an email to sci.electronics.repair+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com.