sci.electronics.repair - 25 new messages in 8 topics - digest

11:15 AM Penedão 0 comments

sci.electronics.repair
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair?hl=en

sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Today's topics:

* Cheap Wholesale Nike shoes jordan shoes dunk shoes Nike RLFT <http://www.24
hours-online.com/> <free shipping paypal payment> - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/e1e132d175c0060e?hl=en
* hai - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/2b854d3d4f15429f?hl=en
* KARO JARA JALSA - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/aea22cbcfffa035e?hl=en
* Magnavox ZV450MW8A Remote Control Fix? - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/c88c8c3007ad7b2b?hl=en
* Toroidal mains Tx inrush limiter - retrofit - 11 messages, 5 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/da7ba841cd54d76f?hl=en
* CRT vertical deflection -- bad solder joints? - 7 messages, 5 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/f637b1e686d3f98e?hl=en
* CHATTING FOR HOT GIRLS - MORE DATING TIPS - DATING FOR HOT GIRLS - CLICK
HERE - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/20a14278e1356198?hl=en
* motherboard RAM failures - 2 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/3e25b3ae78058770?hl=en

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Cheap Wholesale Nike shoes jordan shoes dunk shoes Nike RLFT <http://
www.24hours-online.com/> <free shipping paypal payment>
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/e1e132d175c0060e?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Tues, Mar 29 2011 10:37 pm
From: jialiushoes

Nike Air Max
Cheap Wholesale Nike Air Max 87 <http://www.24hours-online.com/> <free
shipping paypal payment>
Cheap Wholesale Nike Air Max 89 <http://www.24hours-online.com/> <free
shipping paypal payment>
Cheap Wholesale Nike Air Max 90 <http://www.24hours-online.com/><free
shipping paypal payment>
Cheap Wholesale Nike Air Max 91 <http://www.24hours-online.com/> <free
shipping paypal payment>
Cheap Wholesale Nike Air Max 92 Man <http://www.24hours-online.com/>
<free shipping paypal payment>
Cheap Wholesale Nike Air Max 93 <http://www.24hours-online.com/> <free
shipping paypal payment>
Cheap Wholesale Nike Air Max 95 <http://www.24hours-online.com/> <free
shipping paypal payment>
Cheap Wholesale Nike Air Max 97 <http://www.24hours-online.com/> <free
shipping paypal payment>
Cheap Wholesale Nike Air Max 180 Man <http://www.24hours-online.com/>
<free shipping paypal payment>
Cheap Wholesale Nike Air Max 2006 <http://www.24hours-online.com/>
<free shipping paypal payment>
Cheap Wholesale Nike Air Max 2009 <http://www.24hours-online.com/>
<free shipping paypal payment>
Cheap Wholesale Nike Air Max Clssic BW <http://www.24hours-online.com/
> <free shipping paypal payment>
Cheap Wholesale Nike Air Max LTD <http://www.24hours-online.com/>
<free shipping paypal payment>
Cheap Wholesale Nike Air Max Skyline <http://www.24hours-online.com/>
<free shipping paypal payment>
Cheap Wholesale Nike Air Max STAB <http://www.24hours-online.com/>
<free shipping paypal payment>
Cheap Wholesale Nike Air Max Tailwind <http://www.24hours-online.com/>
<free shipping paypal payment>
Cheap Wholesale Nike Air Max TN <http://www.24hours-online.com/> <free
shipping paypal payment>

Cheap Wholesale Shox NZ <http://www.24hours-online.com/> <free
shipping paypal payment>
Cheap Wholesale Shox OZ <http://www.24hours-online.com/> <free
shipping paypal payment>
Cheap Wholesale Shox R2 <http://www.24hours-online.com/> <free
shipping paypal payment>
Cheap Wholesale Shox R3 <http://www.24hours-online.com/> <free
shipping paypal payment>
Cheap Wholesale Shox R3+R4 <http://www.24hours-online.com/> <free
shipping paypal payment>
Cheap Wholesale Shox R4 <http://www.24hours-online.com/> <free
shipping paypal payment>
Cheap Wholesale Shox R5 <http://www.24hours-online.com/> <free
shipping paypal payment>
Cheap Wholesale Shox Reverie lover
Cheap Wholesale Shox RZ <http://www.24hours-online.com/> <free
shipping paypal payment>
Cheap Wholesale Shox TL <http://www.24hours-online.com/> <free
shipping paypal payment>
Cheap Wholesale Shox Torch <http://www.24hours-online.com/> <free
shipping paypal payment>
Cheap Wholesale Shox TZ <http://www.24hours-online.com/> <free
shipping paypal payment>

Air Force one <http://www.24hours-online.com/> <free shipping paypal
payment>
Cheap Wholesale Air Force One Man <http://www.24hours-online.com/>
paypal
payment
Cheap Wholesale Air Force One Women <http://www.24hours-online.com/>
paypal
payment
Cheap Wholesale Air Force One M&W <http://www.24hours-online.com/>
paypal
payment
Cheap Wholesale Air Force one 25 Man <http://www.24hours-online.com/>
paypal
payment
Cheap Wholesale Air Force One 25 Women <http://www.24hours-online.com/
> paypal
payment
Cheap Wholesale Air Force One Kid <http://www.24hours-online.com/>
paypal
payment
Cheap Wholesale Air Force one Mid Man <http://www.24hours-online.com/>
paypal
payment
Cheap Wholesale Air Force one Mid Women <http://www.24hours-online.com/
> paypal
payment
Cheap Wholesale Air Force one Hight Women <http://www.24hours-
online.com/> paypal
payment
Cheap Wholesale Nike shoes <http://www.24hours-online.com/> <free
shipping paypal payment>
Cheap Wholesale Nike Dunk SB <http://www.24hours-online.com/> <free
shipping paypal payment>
Cheap Wholesale Nike RLFT <http://www.24hours-online.com/> <free
shipping paypal payment>

==============================================================================
TOPIC: hai
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/2b854d3d4f15429f?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Wed, Mar 30 2011 1:26 am
From: saranya r

http://123maza.com/65/beauty147/

==============================================================================
TOPIC: KARO JARA JALSA
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/aea22cbcfffa035e?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Wed, Mar 30 2011 4:50 am
From: SRAVANTHI LOVE

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Magnavox ZV450MW8A Remote Control Fix?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/c88c8c3007ad7b2b?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Wed, Mar 30 2011 4:58 am
From: PeterD

On 3/29/2011 8:25 AM, Michael A. Terrell wrote:
>
> PeterD wrote:
>>
>> On 3/28/2011 1:56 PM, Michael A. Terrell wrote:
>>>
>>> Guv Bob wrote:
>>>>
>>>> I have had this DVD/VCR combo unit for over 3 years now, and would like to find out if anyone has found a 3rd party remote control that can be used with it, or if the factory has a remote with upgraded software.
>>>>
>>>> The device is top quality and the manual is excellent, but the remote is so complicated and non-intuitive that if you don't use it every day, you have to go back to the manual, even after this long time.
>>>>
>>>> The manual does leave out some basic steps -- like how to set the record speed (which they call "mode"). I'm fairly good with electronics (servicing industrial electronics is my business) and took me a good year before I could make basic settings without looking it up.
>>>>
>>>> Most of the features can't be done from the device and must be done via the remote control which is cryptic. It has way too many buttons, even for a combo unity, and has tiny labels that can't be read in a darkened room. If you hit a wrong button, sometimes it is impossible to figure out how to return the device to normal use without digging out the manual again. My manual is well worn and has many notes scribbled in it now.
>>>>
>>>> One problem is that when you are using the timer, you have to turn the device off and on with a button other than the ON/OFF button. If your lovely wife comes in and used ON/OFF, it disables the timer, and must be reset again with the special non-ON/OFF button.
>>>>
>>>> It is a real shame that such a fine device from a good manufacturer has such a poor user interface. A better designed remote would completely change the usability.
>>>
>>>
>>> Wrong newsgroup. This is a test equipment newsgroup. You want
>>> news:sci.electronics.repair.
>>>
>>>
>>
>> Michael... Careful you posted your reply to the wrong groups too!<g>
>
>
> No. I added the proper group.
>
>

I had to read that twice before I realized what you meant... <g> So you
added SER to help the OP out. Sure left me confused!

--
I'm never going to grow up.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Toroidal mains Tx inrush limiter - retrofit
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/da7ba841cd54d76f?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 11 ==
Date: Wed, Mar 30 2011 5:07 am
From: "N_Cook"

This 300W amp blows correct T3.15A fuses every now and then at sw on. The
owner left in the last one so I can see it is just "tired" , neat break and
2 constituent parts of fuse wire remaining.

Any issues concerning putting in an ex pc SMPS 450W, 250V land mains inrush
thermistor, unknown specs, other than 14mm diameter, 4mm wide , 1mm diam
leads, 8R cold , 1R after 20 seconds touched by soldering iron barrel. Other
than poor physical integrity of the lead "welds" to the body (like disc
ceramic cap) - will mount on small high temp board and wire into the neutral
side of the wiring, with plenty of clear air space around.

Other than zero crossing Triac sub-cicuit to delay sw off, not creating
ferrite core residual magnetism, and delayed switching on also, any other
ways around this phenomenon other than bad practise uprating of the mains
fuse? Are polyswitches used in these circumstances , ie not purely "fuse"
action or generic name for devices specific for this purpose?

== 2 of 11 ==
Date: Wed, Mar 30 2011 5:22 am
From: "Phil Allison"

"Nutcase Fucking Kook"

> This 300W amp.....

** WHAAATTT AAMMMPP !!!!!!!!!!!!!

You ridiculous, fucking nut case !!!

> blows correct T3.15A fuses every now and then at sw on.

** Probably normal.

Use a 4 amp "slo blo" fuse.

> Other than zero crossing Triac sub-cicuit to delay sw off,

** Fucking stupid.

> not creating ferrite core residual magnetism,

** Toroidal mains transformers are NOT ferrite.

You ABSOLUTE DONKEY'S ASS !!!
--------------------------------------------------

> and delayed switching on also,

** Zero crossing switch-on is the WORST thing you can do.

Wot a COLOSSAL MORON !!!

> Are polyswitches used in these circumstances ,

** No.

They have the WRONG resistance / temp characteristic.

You fucking stupid ASS !!!!!!!

..... Phil

== 3 of 11 ==
Date: Wed, Mar 30 2011 6:15 am
From: Mike Tomlinson

In article <imv6e9$2gm$1@dont-email.me>, N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>
writes

>This 300W amp blows correct T3.15A fuses every now and then at sw on. The
>owner left in the last one so I can see it is just "tired" , neat break and
>2 constituent parts of fuse wire remaining.

We have a similar problem at work with cryogenic coolers, which are more
or less like a fridge - a compressor and heat exchanger. Like you say,
the fuse doesn't blow, just parts cleanly due to inrush surge at switch
on.

>Any issues concerning putting in an ex pc SMPS 450W, 250V land mains inrush
>thermistor, unknown specs, other than 14mm diameter, 4mm wide , 1mm diam
>leads, 8R cold , 1R after 20 seconds touched by soldering iron barrel.

Don't see why not. Or a 1 ohm wirewound resistor which will dissipate
3.15W at peak, so use a 5W one. Mount it in free air, of course.

> will mount on small high temp board and wire into the neutral
>side of the wiring,

Why the neutral? Just curious.

>Are polyswitches used in these circumstances , ie not purely "fuse"
>action or generic name for devices specific for this purpose?

I would say they are unsafe for use on mains, simply because they
reconnect the current when they heal. If there is an actual fault in
the equipment rather than the inrush current blowing the fuse and
disabling the supply permanently, it could lead to a fire.

--
Mike Tomlinson

== 4 of 11 ==
Date: Wed, Mar 30 2011 6:55 am
From: Meat Plow

On Wed, 30 Mar 2011 13:07:48 +0100, N_Cook wrote:

> This 300W amp blows correct T3.15A fuses every now and then at sw on.
> The owner left in the last one so I can see it is just "tired" , neat
> break and 2 constituent parts of fuse wire remaining.

Slo Blow?

--
Live Fast Die Young, Leave A Pretty Corpse

== 5 of 11 ==
Date: Wed, Mar 30 2011 6:56 am
From: Mike Tomlinson

In article <pan.2011.03.30.13.54.22@lmao.lol.lol>, Meat Plow
<mhywattt@yahoo.com> writes

>Slo Blow?

He is fitting slo blo, it's what the T in "T3.15A" means.

--
Mike Tomlinson

== 6 of 11 ==
Date: Wed, Mar 30 2011 7:21 am
From: "Gareth Magennis"

"N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote in message
news:imv6e9$2gm$1@dont-email.me...
> This 300W amp blows correct T3.15A fuses every now and then at sw on. The
> owner left in the last one so I can see it is just "tired" , neat break
> and
> 2 constituent parts of fuse wire remaining.
>
> Any issues concerning putting in an ex pc SMPS 450W, 250V land mains
> inrush
> thermistor, unknown specs, other than 14mm diameter, 4mm wide , 1mm diam
> leads, 8R cold , 1R after 20 seconds touched by soldering iron barrel.
> Other
> than poor physical integrity of the lead "welds" to the body (like disc
> ceramic cap) - will mount on small high temp board and wire into the
> neutral
> side of the wiring, with plenty of clear air space around.
>
> Other than zero crossing Triac sub-cicuit to delay sw off, not creating
> ferrite core residual magnetism, and delayed switching on also, any other
> ways around this phenomenon other than bad practise uprating of the mains
> fuse? Are polyswitches used in these circumstances , ie not purely "fuse"
> action or generic name for devices specific for this purpose?
>
>

I've had a few bits of gear for repair that just seem to have an under-rated
fuse. e.g. Mackie SR1530.
Try a T4 instead.

I even had a Marshall here that had (according to Marshall) the wrong value
fuse designed in. It was doing my head in for ages until I phoned Marshall
about it.
They sent me an uprated fuse and stickers to place on the PCB showing the
uprated value.

Gareth.

== 7 of 11 ==
Date: Wed, Mar 30 2011 7:35 am
From: "N_Cook"

Mike Tomlinson <mike@jasper.org.uk> wrote in message
news:3muFuRBizykNFwrV@jasper.org.uk...
> In article <imv6e9$2gm$1@dont-email.me>, N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>
> writes
>
> >This 300W amp blows correct T3.15A fuses every now and then at sw on. The
> >owner left in the last one so I can see it is just "tired" , neat break
and
> >2 constituent parts of fuse wire remaining.
>
> We have a similar problem at work with cryogenic coolers, which are more
> or less like a fridge - a compressor and heat exchanger. Like you say,
> the fuse doesn't blow, just parts cleanly due to inrush surge at switch
> on.
>
> >Any issues concerning putting in an ex pc SMPS 450W, 250V land mains
inrush
> >thermistor, unknown specs, other than 14mm diameter, 4mm wide , 1mm diam
> >leads, 8R cold , 1R after 20 seconds touched by soldering iron barrel.
>
> Don't see why not. Or a 1 ohm wirewound resistor which will dissipate
> 3.15W at peak, so use a 5W one. Mount it in free air, of course.
>
> > will mount on small high temp board and wire into the neutral
> >side of the wiring,
>
> Why the neutral? Just curious.
>
> >Are polyswitches used in these circumstances , ie not purely "fuse"
> >action or generic name for devices specific for this purpose?
>
> I would say they are unsafe for use on mains, simply because they
> reconnect the current when they heal. If there is an actual fault in
> the equipment rather than the inrush current blowing the fuse and
> disabling the supply permanently, it could lead to a fire.
>
> --
> Mike Tomlinson

An engineer I know with IBM Hursley has the same problem with large toroid
Tx on some research kit, he personally was not aware of the phenomenon of
random remnant magnetisation at switch off, then right/wrong polarity
mutually coupled across "adds" to the inrush current , until he asked me if
I knew.

Some more data on this thermistor , green and marked CCK but no info found
Passing DC through it , stabilizes at 2.7R with 1.2V across it so 3.2W ,
.44R and measuring 115 deg C via IR "pyrometer"

== 8 of 11 ==
Date: Wed, Mar 30 2011 7:36 am
From: "N_Cook"

2.7 amp , not 2.7R

== 9 of 11 ==
Date: Wed, Mar 30 2011 9:04 am
From: Meat Plow

On Wed, 30 Mar 2011 14:56:24 +0100, Mike Tomlinson wrote:

> In article <pan.2011.03.30.13.54.22@lmao.lol.lol>, Meat Plow
> <mhywattt@yahoo.com> writes
>
>>Slo Blow?
>
> He is fitting slo blo, it's what the T in "T3.15A" means.

Thought the T mean the size.

--
Live Fast Die Young, Leave A Pretty Corpse

== 10 of 11 ==
Date: Wed, Mar 30 2011 10:52 am
From: Mike Tomlinson

In article <pan.2011.03.30.16.03.48@lmao.lol.lol>, Meat Plow
<mhywattt@yahoo.com> writes

>Thought the T mean the size.

T for Time delay :o)

--
(\__/)
(='.'=)
(")_(")

== 11 of 11 ==
Date: Wed, Mar 30 2011 11:12 am
From: Meat Plow

On Wed, 30 Mar 2011 18:52:48 +0100, Mike Tomlinson wrote:

> In article <pan.2011.03.30.16.03.48@lmao.lol.lol>, Meat Plow
> <mhywattt@yahoo.com> writes
>
>>Thought the T mean the size.
>
> T for Time delay :o)

I just thought of something. Ambient temperature does affect current
carrying capability. Maybe this has some influence on Cook's problem?
High ambient temperature over a period of time weakens the fuse material
and after current influx causes the fuse core to 'twitch' many times it
finally breaks. Not unlike a light bulb.

--
Live Fast Die Young, Leave A Pretty Corpse

==============================================================================
TOPIC: CRT vertical deflection -- bad solder joints?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/f637b1e686d3f98e?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 7 ==
Date: Wed, Mar 30 2011 5:38 am
From: "Mark Zacharias"

"Arfa Daily" <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:Pyvkp.993$KZ7.136@newsfe08.ams2...
>
>
> "William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote in message
> news:imsmrd$5nf$1@dont-email.me...
>> Hello? Instead of fussing over it, why not replace all the electrolytics
>> "in
>> the vicinity" while the bad-looking solder joints are being re-done?
>>
>> This is a common problem in servicing. As an EE, I want to know exactly
>> why
>> something isn't working correctly. But I learned a long time ago that
>> it's
>> more important to simply get the damned thing fixed. If that means
>> shotgunning likely components, so be it.
>>
>>
>
> Shotgunning is, IMHO, very bad practice, and often leads to the creation
> of more problems than it fixes. I am actually quite surprised that you
> would advocate doing this, William.
>
> Arfa

I have seen sets (notably Toshiba and Mitsubishi) where shotgunning was
advisable in addition to replacing whichever single cap might have been
causing your issue.

Mark Z.

== 2 of 7 ==
Date: Wed, Mar 30 2011 7:03 am
From: Meat Plow

On Wed, 30 Mar 2011 07:38:43 -0500, Mark Zacharias wrote:

> "Arfa Daily" <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
> news:Pyvkp.993$KZ7.136@newsfe08.ams2...
>>
>>
>> "William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote in message
>> news:imsmrd$5nf$1@dont-email.me...
>>> Hello? Instead of fussing over it, why not replace all the
>>> electrolytics "in
>>> the vicinity" while the bad-looking solder joints are being re-done?
>>>
>>> This is a common problem in servicing. As an EE, I want to know
>>> exactly why
>>> something isn't working correctly. But I learned a long time ago that
>>> it's
>>> more important to simply get the damned thing fixed. If that means
>>> shotgunning likely components, so be it.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>> Shotgunning is, IMHO, very bad practice, and often leads to the
>> creation of more problems than it fixes. I am actually quite surprised
>> that you would advocate doing this, William.
>>
>> Arfa
>
>
> I have seen sets (notably Toshiba and Mitsubishi) where shotgunning was
> advisable in addition to replacing whichever single cap might have been
> causing your issue.
>
> Mark Z.

We used to call some of the factory repair 'kits' for certain Panasonic
sets "shotgun packs" because of the amount of components included.
Some of those even included parts not on the board that were to be
added on the solder side.

--
Live Fast Die Young, Leave A Pretty Corpse

== 3 of 7 ==
Date: Wed, Mar 30 2011 8:31 am
From: Mike Tomlinson

In article <imsmrd$5nf$1@dont-email.me>, William Sommerwerck
<grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> writes

>But I learned a long time ago that it's
>more important to simply get the damned thing fixed. If that means
>shotgunning likely components, so be it.

Would you be happy for a car mechanic to shotgun a fault on your car,
with you paying for his time and all the parts he is unnecessarily
fitting?

--
Mike Tomlinson

== 4 of 7 ==
Date: Wed, Mar 30 2011 9:06 am
From: Meat Plow

On Wed, 30 Mar 2011 16:31:15 +0100, Mike Tomlinson wrote:

> In article <imsmrd$5nf$1@dont-email.me>, William Sommerwerck
> <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> writes
>
>>But I learned a long time ago that it's more important to simply get the
>>damned thing fixed. If that means shotgunning likely components, so be
>>it.
>
> Would you be happy for a car mechanic to shotgun a fault on your car,
> with you paying for his time and all the parts he is unnecessarily
> fitting?

Isn't that an unfair comparison?

--
Live Fast Die Young, Leave A Pretty Corpse

== 5 of 7 ==
Date: Wed, Mar 30 2011 9:34 am
From: "William Sommerwerck"

>> But I learned a long time ago that it's more important to simply
>> get the damned thing fixed. If that means shotgunning likely
>> components, so be it.

> Would you be happy for a car mechanic to shotgun a fault on
> your car, with you paying for his time and all the parts he is
> unnecessarily fitting?

Yes, if an initial /conscientious/ troubleshoot didn't reveal the problem.
I'd rather pay for parts than time.

Of course, you can't draw an exact parallel between cars and electronic
equipment. It's easier to "see" what is wrong with mechanical devices, but
car parts tend to be more-expensive than electronic parts.

== 6 of 7 ==
Date: Wed, Mar 30 2011 9:59 am
From: Smitty Two

In article <+w2nr3BDz0kNFwLl@jasper.org.uk>,
Mike Tomlinson <mike@jasper.org.uk> wrote:

>
> Would you be happy for a car mechanic to shotgun a fault on your car,
> with you paying for his time and all the parts he is unnecessarily
> fitting?

It's commonly done. Had a girlfriend a few years back who took her car
in because it was overheating. They called with the estimate (of many
hundreds of dollars,) saying they had determined that it needed a new
radiator, new water pump, new thermostat, and new hoses.

I went down there and asked them how they had determined the radiator
fault, and they claimed to have pressure tested it. A 15 second look
under the hood confirmed my suspicion that they had not.

I took the car and replaced the thermostat - $12 and 1/2 hour - and it
served her for several more years.

The shop in question is consistently voted winner of the annual
"Reader's Poll" in our local rag.

Oddly, I don't think they operate that way solely to cheat the customer
financially. I think they're more driven by not wanting any return
complaints. That's why the "Readers" like them -- "they fixed it right
the first time!!"

I drove around town for the next 3 months with a giant sign in my back
window:

"Richard's Auto: As Crooked As the Day is Long."

I got a lot of stories from people who saw the sign, about their own bad
experiences there.

== 7 of 7 ==
Date: Wed, Mar 30 2011 10:31 am
From: "William Sommerwerck"

>> Would you be happy for a car mechanic to shotgun a fault on your
>> car, with you paying for his time and all the parts he is unnecessarily
>> fitting?

> It's commonly done. Had a girlfriend a few years back who took her car
> in because it was overheating. They called with the estimate (of many
> hundreds of dollars), saying they had determined that it needed a new
> radiator, new water pump, new thermostat, and new hoses.

> I went down there and asked them how they had determined the radiator
> fault, and they claimed to have pressure-tested it. A 15-second look
> under the hood confirmed my suspicion that they had not.

> I took the car and replaced the thermostat -- $12 and 1/2 hour -- and it
> served her for several more years.

> The shop in question is consistently voted winner of the annual
> "Reader's Poll" in our local rag.

> Oddly, I don't think they operate that way solely to cheat the customer
> financially. I think they're more driven by not wanting any return
> complaints. That's why the "Readers" like them -- "they fixed it right
> the first time!!"

There's also the possibility that a comprehensive makes it possible to offer
a "lifetime" warranty on the repair.

> I drove around town for the next 3 months with a giant sign in my back
> window:
> "Richard's Auto: As Crooked As the Day is Long."
> I got a lot of stories from people who saw the sign, about their own bad
> experiences there.

It goes without saying that if a service shop claims that lots of things
need fixing, it's probably not telling the truth.

Thirty years ago I worked part-time -- at $6/hour -- for Chestnut Hill Audio
in Philadelphia. The owner said to me "You're not as fast as the other
people I use -- but nothing you repair comes back."

I had a holy horror of callbacks. It costs the business money, and it makes
the business and the service tech look bad.

By the way, I never shotgunned anything I repaired there, because nothing
seemed to need it.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: CHATTING FOR HOT GIRLS - MORE DATING TIPS - DATING FOR HOT GIRLS -
CLICK HERE
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/20a14278e1356198?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Wed, Mar 30 2011 6:46 am
From: devi vithya

http://dating-chatting143.blogspot.com

==============================================================================
TOPIC: motherboard RAM failures
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/3e25b3ae78058770?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Wed, Mar 30 2011 8:50 am
From: Jeff Liebermann

On Tue, 29 Mar 2011 21:43:47 -0700, Smitty Two
<prestwhich@earthlink.net> wrote:

>In article <mch5o6lvkka0nlgto4h7kcr1c0pk6029vb@4ax.com>,
> Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com> wrote:
>
>> The model number of the MSI motherboard and the exact spec of the RAM
>> might have been helpful. Some motherboards are VERY picky about the
>> type and speed of RAM that they use. On the borderline devices, a
>> given SDRAM stick will barely work in one slot, and fail in others.
>> You might be dealing with such borderline situations. Numbers please.

>Sorry about the delay in getting back to you on this. I'm not
>experienced with component specs, so this may not even be enough to go
>on, but the only info on the boxes is:
>
>motherboard: MSI X58 Pro-E
>RAM: Corsair "Dominator" DDR3. Using 3x 2GB sticks.

Are you overclocking the CPU speed?
What is the speed rating of the DDR3 RAM? It should be PC3-?????

Corsair "Dominator" RAM series is the favored RAM for overclocking
adventures. They even advertise it.
<http://www.corsair.com/memory/dominator.html>
As I recall, when I tore apart one of their DDR2 sticks, it's Intel
chips, with a useless aluminum heat sink attached mostly for
aesthetics. The sticks are then selected for speeds somewhat above
the DDR3 specification. Note that similar looking sticks are bin
sorted by speed. You may be using rejects, or a mix of speeds. Little
wonder you're having fallout. If overclocked, don't be surprised if
you get complaints of hangs and spontaneous reboots in the field. If
running a speed mix, you could be seeing combinations that won't work.

I've had limited experience with DDR3 motherboards, and none with the
above combination. I have had some experience with PIII and P4
vintage MSI (MicroStar International) motherboards and find them to be
near the low end in quality. However, this board:
<http://www.msi.com/product/mb/X58-Pro-E.html>
uses all polymer electrolytic capacitors, so there a good chance it
will survive the warranty period. However, that's no indication
layout and design quality, neither of which MSI is known for. I can't
tell from the "detailed" specs if overclocking is supported. It
proclaims:
Supports six unbuffered DIMM of 1.5 Volt DDR3 800/1066/1333*/1600*
(OC) DRAM, 24GB Max
I'll assume that the Corsair RAM is running at 1600MT/s, which is well
under their tested speed, so it should work. However, if the
motherboard is set overlocked, it might not.

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Wed, Mar 30 2011 9:24 am
From: Meat Plow

On Wed, 30 Mar 2011 08:50:30 -0700, Jeff Liebermann wrote:

> On Tue, 29 Mar 2011 21:43:47 -0700, Smitty Two
> <prestwhich@earthlink.net> wrote:
>
>>In article <mch5o6lvkka0nlgto4h7kcr1c0pk6029vb@4ax.com>,
>> Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com> wrote:
>>
>>> The model number of the MSI motherboard and the exact spec of the RAM
>>> might have been helpful. Some motherboards are VERY picky about the
>>> type and speed of RAM that they use. On the borderline devices, a
>>> given SDRAM stick will barely work in one slot, and fail in others.
>>> You might be dealing with such borderline situations. Numbers please.
>
>>Sorry about the delay in getting back to you on this. I'm not
>>experienced with component specs, so this may not even be enough to go
>>on, but the only info on the boxes is:
>>
>>motherboard: MSI X58 Pro-E
>>RAM: Corsair "Dominator" DDR3. Using 3x 2GB sticks.
>
> Are you overclocking the CPU speed?
> What is the speed rating of the DDR3 RAM? It should be PC3-?????
>
> Corsair "Dominator" RAM series is the favored RAM for overclocking
> adventures. They even advertise it.
> <http://www.corsair.com/memory/dominator.html> As I recall, when I tore
> apart one of their DDR2 sticks, it's Intel chips, with a useless
> aluminum heat sink attached mostly for aesthetics. The sticks are then
> selected for speeds somewhat above the DDR3 specification. Note that
> similar looking sticks are bin sorted by speed. You may be using
> rejects, or a mix of speeds. Little wonder you're having fallout. If
> overclocked, don't be surprised if you get complaints of hangs and
> spontaneous reboots in the field. If running a speed mix, you could be
> seeing combinations that won't work.
>
> I've had limited experience with DDR3 motherboards, and none with the
> above combination. I have had some experience with PIII and P4 vintage
> MSI (MicroStar International) motherboards and find them to be near the
> low end in quality. However, this board:
> <http://www.msi.com/product/mb/X58-Pro-E.html> uses all polymer
> electrolytic capacitors, so there a good chance it will survive the
> warranty period. However, that's no indication layout and design
> quality, neither of which MSI is known for. I can't tell from the
> "detailed" specs if overclocking is supported. It proclaims:
> Supports six unbuffered DIMM of 1.5 Volt DDR3 800/1066/1333*/1600*
> (OC) DRAM, 24GB Max
> I'll assume that the Corsair RAM is running at 1600MT/s, which is well
> under their tested speed, so it should work. However, if the
> motherboard is set overlocked, it might not.

Jeff here is my current machine:

Corsair XMS3 4GB PC12800 DDR3 Dual Channel 1600Mhz
AMD Phenom II X4 955 Black Edition AM3
ASUS M4A78T-E AMD 790GX Socket AM3
ULTRA LS600 600W ATX POWER SUPPLY

Built in July 2010. Ran for a month at standard CPU clock.
Upped 3.2 to 4 ghz in August 2010

Dual boot Mandriva 2010 Power Pack server kernel
# uname -r
2.6.31.13-server-1mnb

Windows 7 Ultimate.

Zero problems/anomalies. Rarely use the Windows 7 anymore but had
same stability in Manddriva 2010 and Win 7.

Asus M4A78T-E is the overclocker's choice because of all the
timing and core syncing features.

http://www.pcstats.com/articleview.cfm?articleID=2379

--
Live Fast Die Young, Leave A Pretty Corpse

==============================================================================

You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "sci.electronics.repair"
group.

To post to this group, visit http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair?hl=en

To unsubscribe from this group, send email to sci.electronics.repair+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com

To change the way you get mail from this group, visit:
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/subscribe?hl=en

To report abuse, send email explaining the problem to abuse@googlegroups.com

==============================================================================
Google Groups: http://groups.google.com/?hl=en

sci.electronics.repair - 2 new messages in 2 topics - digest

1:10 AM Penedão 0 comments

sci.electronics.repair
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair?hl=en

sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Today's topics:

* motherboard RAM failures - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/3e25b3ae78058770?hl=en
* Cheap Wholesale Nike shoes jordan shoes dunk shoes Nike RLFT <http://www.24
hours-online.com/> <free shipping paypal payment> - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/e1e132d175c0060e?hl=en

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Tues, Mar 29 2011 9:43 pm
From: Smitty Two

In article <mch5o6lvkka0nlgto4h7kcr1c0pk6029vb@4ax.com>,
Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com> wrote:

> The model number of the MSI motherboard and the exact spec of the RAM
> might have been helpful. Some motherboards are VERY picky about the
> type and speed of RAM that they use. On the borderline devices, a
> given SDRAM stick will barely work in one slot, and fail in others.
> You might be dealing with such borderline situations. Numbers please.

Sorry about the delay in getting back to you on this. I'm not
experienced with component specs, so this may not even be enough to go
on, but the only info on the boxes is:

motherboard: MSI X58 Pro-E
RAM: Corsair "Dominator" DDR3. Using 3x 2GB sticks.

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Tues, Mar 29 2011 10:37 pm
From: jialiushoes

==============================================================================

You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "sci.electronics.repair"
group.

To post to this group, visit http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair?hl=en

To unsubscribe from this group, send email to sci.electronics.repair+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com

To change the way you get mail from this group, visit:
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/subscribe?hl=en

To report abuse, send email explaining the problem to abuse@googlegroups.com

==============================================================================
Google Groups: http://groups.google.com/?hl=en

sci.electronics.repair - 23 new messages in 11 topics - digest

9:45 PM Penedão 0 comments

sci.electronics.repair
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair?hl=en

sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Today's topics:

== 1 of 9 ==
Date: Tues, Mar 29 2011 1:48 am
From: Mike Tomlinson

In article <157d392f-817a-4788-b72b-5198c68bb1af@glegroupsg2000goo.googl
egroups.com>, whit3rd <whit3rd@gmail.com> writes

>The capacitor is inexpensive; just replace it with a new one,
>don't bother with testing the old unit.

*whoosh*

And how is he supposed to locate the offending capacitor without some
form of test equipment?

--
Mike Tomlinson

== 2 of 9 ==
Date: Tues, Mar 29 2011 1:49 am
From: Mike Tomlinson

In article <z2akp.203037$Bg2.147257@newsfe03.ams2>, Arfa Daily
<arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> writes

>I think you are missing the point of what he was saying regarding ESR.

I think so too :o)

>My money would be 100% on it being
>a bad cap

--
Mike Tomlinson

== 3 of 9 ==
Date: Tues, Mar 29 2011 3:17 am
From: "Mark Zacharias"

"Mike Tomlinson" <mike@jasper.org.uk> wrote in message
news:h9Lw4IA1zZkNFwZu@jasper.org.uk...
> In article <157d392f-817a-4788-b72b-5198c68bb1af@glegroupsg2000goo.googl
> egroups.com>, whit3rd <whit3rd@gmail.com> writes
>
>>The capacitor is inexpensive; just replace it with a new one,
>>don't bother with testing the old unit.
>
> *whoosh*
>
> And how is he supposed to locate the offending capacitor without some
> form of test equipment?
>
> --
> Mike Tomlinson

Just look for the 100uF at 35v cap next to the output IC. :-)

Mark Z.

== 4 of 9 ==
Date: Tues, Mar 29 2011 6:29 am
From: "William Sommerwerck"

Hello? Instead of fussing over it, why not replace all the electrolytics "in
the vicinity" while the bad-looking solder joints are being re-done?

This is a common problem in servicing. As an EE, I want to know exactly why
something isn't working correctly. But I learned a long time ago that it's
more important to simply get the damned thing fixed. If that means
shotgunning likely components, so be it.

== 5 of 9 ==
Date: Tues, Mar 29 2011 6:52 am
From: Mike Tomlinson

In article <imsmrd$5nf$1@dont-email.me>, William Sommerwerck
<grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> writes

>This is a common problem in servicing. As an EE, I want to know exactly why
>something isn't working correctly. But I learned a long time ago that it's
>more important to simply get the damned thing fixed. If that means
>shotgunning likely components, so be it.

If you're fixing stuff regularly, particularly many of the same item,
it's worth diagnosing the problem so that in future you can say, "oh,
that model, that fault, it's C35", and replace that - saving time and
the cost of replacing components unnecessarily.

--
Mike Tomlinson

== 6 of 9 ==
Date: Tues, Mar 29 2011 11:57 am
From: whit3rd

On Monday, March 28, 2011 5:51:41 PM UTC-7, Arfa Daily wrote:
> "whit3rd" <whi...@gmail.com> wrote in message
> news:157d392f-817a-4788-b72b-5198c68bb1af@glegroupsg2000goo.googlegroups.com...
> > On Monday, March 28, 2011 4:15:45 AM UTC-7, Mike Tomlinson wrote:
> >> In article <fa3b18fc-cf26-4f79-8899-e45f302cb1e6@l14g2000pre.googlegroup
> >> s.com>, Sean Hamilton <sean...@gmail.com> writes
> >>
> >> >Is it likely that bad solder joints would cause vertical foldover in a
> >> >mid-90s CRT television?
> >>
> >> Yes, but it's more likely to be a bad cap.
> >
> >> Visual inspection is not enough. You need an ESR meter.
> >
> > Maybe not; the ESR issues crop up mainly in high-performance
> > low voltage power supplies

> I think you are missing the point of what he was saying regarding ESR. This
> parameter is a valid test of the 'goodness' of any electrolytic capacitor,

A test, yes; but not a complete test. The ESR of a 10uF capacitor can be
good, but it won't do the work of a 100 uF capacitor. A combination
of ESR and capacitor-meter testing is better, and a test at the
frequency of interest for ripple reduction is better still.

I wouldn't bother with any of that parameter testing, though.
If you suspect the 10-year-old capacitor, replace it. You'd possibly have to
desolder to test it anyhow, spend the eighty-five cents to put in a new
one.

== 7 of 9 ==
Date: Tues, Mar 29 2011 6:19 pm
From: "Arfa Daily"

"William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:imsmrd$5nf$1@dont-email.me...
> Hello? Instead of fussing over it, why not replace all the electrolytics
> "in
> the vicinity" while the bad-looking solder joints are being re-done?
>
> This is a common problem in servicing. As an EE, I want to know exactly
> why
> something isn't working correctly. But I learned a long time ago that it's
> more important to simply get the damned thing fixed. If that means
> shotgunning likely components, so be it.
>
>

Shotgunning is, IMHO, very bad practice, and often leads to the creation of
more problems than it fixes. I am actually quite surprised that you would
advocate doing this, William.

Arfa

== 8 of 9 ==
Date: Tues, Mar 29 2011 6:20 pm
From: "Arfa Daily"

"Mike Tomlinson" <mike@jasper.org.uk> wrote in message
news:U6QNJSBZQekNFwPA@jasper.org.uk...
> In article <imsmrd$5nf$1@dont-email.me>, William Sommerwerck
> <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> writes
>
>>This is a common problem in servicing. As an EE, I want to know exactly
>>why
>>something isn't working correctly. But I learned a long time ago that it's
>>more important to simply get the damned thing fixed. If that means
>>shotgunning likely components, so be it.
>
> If you're fixing stuff regularly, particularly many of the same item,
> it's worth diagnosing the problem so that in future you can say, "oh,
> that model, that fault, it's C35", and replace that - saving time and
> the cost of replacing components unnecessarily.
>
> --
> Mike Tomlinson

Seconded ...

Arfa

== 9 of 9 ==
Date: Tues, Mar 29 2011 6:29 pm
From: "William Sommerwerck"

>> This is a common problem in servicing. As an EE, I want to know
>> exactly why something isn't working correctly. But I learned a long
>> time ago that it's more important to simply get the damned thing
>> fixed. If that means shotgunning likely components, so be it.

> Shotgunning is, IMHO, very bad practice, and often leads to the
> creation of more problems than it fixes. I am actually quite surprised
> that you would advocate doing this, William.

I don't understand how shotgunning can /create/ problems, as long as the
replaced components are correct replacements. Unless you mean the customer
might get upset.

As an experienced service technician, you know that the cause of a given
problem is not always obvious, even after extensive troubleshooting. The
customer is paying for your time, often more than what the parts cost. Why
burn up the customer's money when replacing a half-dozen parts is likely to
fix the thing?

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Does "Distance Learning" get you a job as an electronic technician?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/47f58fefa6e503c2?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Tues, Mar 29 2011 2:49 am
From: Mike Tomlinson

In article <15e02d95-560b-403e-9112-8df74347bf37@j9g2000prj.googlegroups
.com>, James <myomassage@gmail.com> writes

>Does "Distance Learning" get you a job as an electronic technician?

It'll get you a pretty piece of paper, but there is no substitute for
hands-on experience. You'd do better to take a course at your local
college or uni as long as it involves a practical element.

--
Mike Tomlinson

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Tues, Mar 29 2011 7:36 am
From: Meat Plow

On Mon, 28 Mar 2011 19:33:23 -0700, James wrote:

> Does "Distance Learning" get you a job as an electronic technician? What
> school did you go to ?
>
> Thank You for Your input
> James

I started as a mobile installer in the late 70's. Already had electronics
in the blood, knowing how to solder basic understanding about principals
I was selected for some advanced on the job training. Within a couple
years I had surpassed my mentors. I have trained techs fresh out of
school. One I remember couldn't solder two wires together. Having a
diploma won't land you a job necessarily. You'll still need some pretty
extensive training and someone willing to give it to you.

--
Live Fast Die Young, Leave A Pretty Corpse

==============================================================================
TOPIC: sex medicine & hot videos
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/17126ba2310db142?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Tues, Mar 29 2011 3:19 am
From: SRAVANTHI LOVE

how to encourage women hot sex
http://onlyforhealth-muni.blogspot.com/2011/03/medicine-for-women.html
food list for pregnant womens
http://onlyforhealth-muni.blogspot.com/2011/03/pregnants-food-list.html
hormone imbalance for men and women
http://onlyforhealth-muni.blogspot.com/2011/03/hormone-imbalance.html
sex medicine for men
http://onlyforhealth-muni.blogspot.com/2011/03/sildenafil-citrate.html
cure diseases only with water
http://onlyforhealth-muni.blogspot.com/2011/03/water-theraphy.html
antibiotics and there uses
http://onlyforhealth-muni.blogspot.com/2010/12/antibiotics-introduction.html

== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Tues, Mar 29 2011 4:28 am
From: PeterD

On 3/28/2011 1:56 PM, Michael A. Terrell wrote:
>
> Guv Bob wrote:
>>
>> I have had this DVD/VCR combo unit for over 3 years now, and would like to find out if anyone has found a 3rd party remote control that can be used with it, or if the factory has a remote with upgraded software.
>>
>> The device is top quality and the manual is excellent, but the remote is so complicated and non-intuitive that if you don't use it every day, you have to go back to the manual, even after this long time.
>>
>> The manual does leave out some basic steps -- like how to set the record speed (which they call "mode"). I'm fairly good with electronics (servicing industrial electronics is my business) and took me a good year before I could make basic settings without looking it up.
>>
>> Most of the features can't be done from the device and must be done via the remote control which is cryptic. It has way too many buttons, even for a combo unity, and has tiny labels that can't be read in a darkened room. If you hit a wrong button, sometimes it is impossible to figure out how to return the device to normal use without digging out the manual again. My manual is well worn and has many notes scribbled in it now.
>>
>> One problem is that when you are using the timer, you have to turn the device off and on with a button other than the ON/OFF button. If your lovely wife comes in and used ON/OFF, it disables the timer, and must be reset again with the special non-ON/OFF button.
>>
>> It is a real shame that such a fine device from a good manufacturer has such a poor user interface. A better designed remote would completely change the usability.
>
>
> Wrong newsgroup. This is a test equipment newsgroup. You want
> news:sci.electronics.repair.
>
>

Michael... Careful you posted your reply to the wrong groups too! <g>

--
I'm never going to grow up.

== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Tues, Mar 29 2011 5:25 am
From: "Michael A. Terrell"

PeterD wrote:
>
> On 3/28/2011 1:56 PM, Michael A. Terrell wrote:
> >
> > Guv Bob wrote:
> >>
> >> I have had this DVD/VCR combo unit for over 3 years now, and would like to find out if anyone has found a 3rd party remote control that can be used with it, or if the factory has a remote with upgraded software.
> >>
> >> The device is top quality and the manual is excellent, but the remote is so complicated and non-intuitive that if you don't use it every day, you have to go back to the manual, even after this long time.
> >>
> >> The manual does leave out some basic steps -- like how to set the record speed (which they call "mode"). I'm fairly good with electronics (servicing industrial electronics is my business) and took me a good year before I could make basic settings without looking it up.
> >>
> >> Most of the features can't be done from the device and must be done via the remote control which is cryptic. It has way too many buttons, even for a combo unity, and has tiny labels that can't be read in a darkened room. If you hit a wrong button, sometimes it is impossible to figure out how to return the device to normal use without digging out the manual again. My manual is well worn and has many notes scribbled in it now.
> >>
> >> One problem is that when you are using the timer, you have to turn the device off and on with a button other than the ON/OFF button. If your lovely wife comes in and used ON/OFF, it disables the timer, and must be reset again with the special non-ON/OFF button.
> >>
> >> It is a real shame that such a fine device from a good manufacturer has such a poor user interface. A better designed remote would completely change the usability.
> >
> >
> > Wrong newsgroup. This is a test equipment newsgroup. You want
> > news:sci.electronics.repair.
> >
> >
>
> Michael... Careful you posted your reply to the wrong groups too! <g>

No. I added the proper group.

--
You can't fix stupid. You can't even put a Band-Aid� on it, because it's
Teflon coated.

== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Tues, Mar 29 2011 6:25 am
From: "William Sommerwerck"

The problem, Guv Bob, is not so much in the remote control, but in the
unit's firmware, which requires such confusing operation. Many products are
designed with no concern whatever as to how people actually use them.

The only thing I can suggest is to buy a remote control that can be
programmed with IR sequences from your existing remote, AND supports macros.
You should then be able to create one-button commands.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: world meti nano dna
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/f46cadf348a9d7a8?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Tues, Mar 29 2011 6:07 am
From: ram

http://worldbankgroup-kavi.blogspot.com/
http://meticulous-kavi.blogspot.com/
http://nanotechnologyfire-kavi.blogspot.com/
http://dnasequencing-kavi.blogspot.com/

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Tues, Mar 29 2011 6:14 am
From: vijay balan

http://123maza.com/75/model419/

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Tues, Mar 29 2011 6:15 am
From: vijay balan

http://123maza.com/75/model419/

==============================================================================
TOPIC: DATING FOR HOT GIRLS - FREE ONLINE CHATTING - MORE DATING TIPS HERE
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/6cd2f60ea285ceb9?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Tues, Mar 29 2011 7:16 am
From: devi vithya

http://dating-chatting143.blogspot.com/

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Viewsonic G810 with weird horizontal problem
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/fb407eb5e24f82b2?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Tues, Mar 29 2011 8:07 am
From: Dani

Replace the flyback transformer part # Tlfa01365, & resolder the
horizontal drive, & power supply section. Hope this helps.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Yamaha Stagepas 300
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/5428ff9d7265b16b?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Tues, Mar 29 2011 11:27 am
From: "Gareth Magennis"

Oops that wasn't meant to happen.

Windows has had for years this silly thing where if you click "reply to
group", a new Reply window appears with the "Send" clickbox in the exact
same place. So if you inadvertently double click the "reply to group"
button you can erroneously send a blank reply in the blink of an eye.
Especially after a few glasses of wine.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Mitsubishi WD-52525 issue.
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/02fbd41f8583f257?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Tues, Mar 29 2011 5:52 pm
From: grider

I'm having trouble with my dlp television. The problem is that I'm
getting random lines that show up on my screen in various areas of the
screen. It seems to happen more around text on the screen where I
might see a few lines scan across a certain area of the screen (not
the whole length of the screen, might be just a couple of inches).
These lines appear in different parts of the screen but seem to be
mostly on the left side (as looking at screen). Again it may be
anywhere from one line shooting from left to right or it may be
several at one time (all shooting left to right motion). The color of
the line(s) will vary at different times. I'm just not sure what could
be causing this. Very strange issue.

Anyone have any ideas?

I've tried to reset the TV, doesn't fix the problem.

Thanks....

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Tues, Mar 29 2011 9:43 pm
From: Smitty Two

In article <mch5o6lvkka0nlgto4h7kcr1c0pk6029vb@4ax.com>,
Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com> wrote:

Sorry about the delay in getting back to you on this. I'm not
experienced with component specs, so this may not even be enough to go
on, but the only info on the boxes is:

motherboard: MSI X58 Pro-E
RAM: Corsair "Dominator" DDR3. Using 3x 2GB sticks.

==============================================================================

You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "sci.electronics.repair"
group.

To post to this group, visit http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair?hl=en

To unsubscribe from this group, send email to sci.electronics.repair+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com

To change the way you get mail from this group, visit:
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/subscribe?hl=en

To report abuse, send email explaining the problem to abuse@googlegroups.com

==============================================================================
Google Groups: http://groups.google.com/?hl=en

Electronics

sci.electronics.repair - 25 new messages in 8 topics - digest

sci.electronics.repair - 2 new messages in 2 topics - digest

sci.electronics.repair - 23 new messages in 11 topics - digest

Blog Roll

Blog Archive