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jaugustine@verizon.net: Jan 25 11:05AM Hi,   Note: I did electronic service work for many years. Note: This DVD recorder does NOT use a computer. It has AV inputs and outputs plus a built in TV type tuner.   My Panasonic DVD Recorder DMR-ES20, when plugged in (AC) takes a very long time to initialize (rolling "o"s) before the flashing "12:00A" appears. Also, when I turn it on, "Hello" is on for a long time (not as long as "rolling o") before I can use the recorder.   I checked every electrolytic capacitor in the power supply, plus some others (ESR and capacitance test). I replaced a few that were in early stages of going bad, but that did not fix the problem.   Has anyone fixed this problem (same model with same issue)?   Thank You in advance, John

root <NoEMail@home.org>: Jan 24 08:41PM This is going to be hard to believe, but I am in the market for a new receiver and I want one with HD radio tuner. The people at Best Buy, and the Magnolia group within Best Buy don't seem to understand what HD fm tuner is.   Knowing that the Denon 3313CI (discontinued) had the HD tuner capability I went online to Denon and tried to find a current model that has HD tuner capability: I could find none, so I called Denon and they gave me a list, really a list of every one of their current models. I could find no mention of HD tuner on any of the models.   I found a Sony STRDDH770 which, according to Best Buy, does have an HD tuner. I bought the thing, hooked it up, and there is no HD tuner, nor is there an HD tuner in the next model up STRDN1070   My question here is can anyone suggest a (reasonably) priced receiver that has at least 4K pass-through and an fm HD tuner?   Thanks.

"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Jan 24 02:04PM -0800 On Tuesday, January 24, 2017 at 3:41:29 PM UTC-5, root wrote: > This is going to be hard to believe, but I am in the market for > a new receiver and I want one with HD radio tuner.   https://www.amazon.com/Sangean-HDT-20-Radio-FM-Stereo-Component/dp/B01BY02C5K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1485294825&sr=8-1&keywords=hd+radio+tuner   https://www.amazon.com/Insignia-NS-HDTUNE-Radio-radio-tuner/dp/B002RJNIVA/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1485294918&sr=8-14&keywords=hd+radio+tuner   With respect, get a simple HD tuner and add it as with any other component to your system. This will vastly multiply your options for receivers rather than restrict them to attic stock, leftovers, or 'used' options.   Or, go used:   http://www.ebay.com/itm/7-1-Surround-Sound-Receiver-w-HDMI-and-HD-Radio-/122298835481?hash=item1c79942219:g:BMYAAOSw9GhYbXRU   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

root <NoEMail@home.org>: Jan 24 10:53PM >> This is going to be hard to believe, but I am in the market for >> a new receiver and I want one with HD radio tuner.   > https://www.amazon.com/Sangean-HDT-20-Radio-FM-Stereo-Component/dp/B01BY02C5K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1485294825&sr=8-1&keywords=hd+radio+tuner   I'm sorry I didn't make myself clear: I want an A/V receiver capable of showing 4K hdmi input. Along with that I want more than a simple am/fm tuner, I want a tuner that incorporates wht the Sangean does.   > https://www.amazon.com/Insignia-NS-HDTUNE-Radio-radio-tuner/dp/B002RJNIVA/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1485294918&sr=8-14&keywords=hd+radio+tuner     I have the Insignia which seems to be a reboxed Sangean. In any case the Insignia unit is little more than junk. When it works it is fine, but it drops the stations after a few minutes, maybe as long as an hour but usually more frequently. It isn't a case of overheating as some have suggested.     > With respect, get a simple HD tuner and add it as with any other component to your system. This will vastly multiply your options for receivers rather than restrict them to attic stock, leftovers, or 'used' options.   > Or, go used:   > http://www.ebay.com/itm/7-1-Surround-Sound-Receiver-w-HDMI-and-HD-Radio-/122298835481?hash=item1c79942219:g:BMYAAOSw9GhYbXRU     The Sherwood listed explicitly says hd radio and I am sure it has it. However the receiver is far too old to support even HDMI 4K pass-through.     Thanks for your help.

Ralph Mowery <rmowery28146@earthlink.net>: Jan 24 06:09PM -0500 In article <o68e5l$fgr$3@news.albasani.net>, NoEMail@home.org says...   > My question here is can anyone suggest a (reasonably) priced > receiver that has at least 4K pass-through and an fm HD tuner?   > Thanks.   While discontinued, Amazon seems to have the Denon for $ 1099.99   https://www.amazon.com/Denon-AVR-3313CI-Networking-Discontinued- Manufacturer/dp/B00829USKS

root <NoEMail@home.org>: Jan 24 11:19PM > While discontinued, Amazon seems to have the Denon for $ 1099.99   > https://www.amazon.com/Denon-AVR-3313CI-Networking-Discontinued- > Manufacturer/dp/B00829USKS   I am in contact with a seller that offers a lower price.   Thanks.

Chuck <chuck@mydeja.net>: Jan 25 08:15AM -0600 On Tue, 24 Jan 2017 14:04:04 -0800 (PST), "pfjw@aol.com"   >http://www.ebay.com/itm/7-1-Surround-Sound-Receiver-w-HDMI-and-HD-Radio-/122298835481?hash=item1c79942219:g:BMYAAOSw9GhYbXRU   >Peter Wieck >Melrose Park, PA The Insignia one is buggy and usually dies within a year or so. Wouldn't buy one used.   --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus

Andrew Rossmann <andysnewsreply@no_junk.comcast.net>: Jan 25 08:45AM -0600 In article <o68e5l$fgr$3@news.albasani.net>, NoEMail@home.org says...   > My question here is can anyone suggest a (reasonably) priced > receiver that has at least 4K pass-through and an fm HD tuner?   > Thanks.   Not sure if they still offer the option, but I have an Onkyo receiver (TX-NR609, a few years old) that has a special proprietary port in back. I think one of the items available was an HD tuner that could plug into that.   -- If there is a no_junk in my address, please REMOVE it before replying! All junk mail senders will be prosecuted to the fullest extent of the law!! http://home.comcast.net/~andyross

"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Jan 25 07:41AM -0800 I still think you should get the ideal receiver from every other aspect, then add an HD tuner to it. This will multiply your options for either item and allow future upgrades to either item.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

captainvideo462009@gmail.com: Jan 24 10:20PM -0800 > If you ignore this message the machine goes on to eventually boot to a screen that shows a "control panel" with a grid of 4 video monitors showing. The mouse moves but will not select anything to change what is presented. There is no video supplied for this test.   > My son loaned me a couple of old XP discs that he had. One lets me get into a screen with choices that you can make but it apparently goes nowhere. The other does not seem to work at all. If this unit originally came supplied with a disk it is nowhere to be found.   > This machine was never connected to the Internet so I can't imagine that it could have a virus. Also there was no replacement or additions to any hardware, so that could not be an issue. I was hoping that perhaps some of you computer savvy guys might have some suggestions for me. My friend doesn't have a lot of money and truthfully I really hate to give up on this thing at this stage of the game. I've come so far and now I feel like I may be so close. I apologize for the long winded post but I wanted to present all the information. Thanks for any assistance. Lenny   I was able to boot into safe mode and I got to a Dos prompt. The hard drive is partitioned into two sections C: and d:. I did chkdsk on both and no errors were found on either one. On D: I found the "cleaner" file that was originally being asked for on boot and I ran it on D:. It deleted all the old surveillance files that were stuck there for whatever reason and now it goes right to the virtual DVR screen. I still do get that blue screen message on initially booting up but then o subsequent boot attempts it goes away and doesn't come back again unless the machine has been off for awhile. Can't figure that out. It doesn't seem to bother anything though. There is also a "factory default" file too. I don't want to run that unless any other weird problems should happen to show up.   There are files on this computer that are 15 years old. This drive looks good now but I fear that it may be on borrowed time. And if it should crash I'll never be able to get a replacement DVR program. So what I would like to do if it's possible is make an exact copy of this drive onto a second one. Truthfully though I'm not that good with computers anymore. I've forgotten a lot of Dos and I think this has to be done under Dos, right? Anyway you mentioned a utility Paul, but I'm sorry to say I don't full understand what you were describing. Could you please elaborate on this a little more? Thanks again for the help. Lenny

jurb6006@gmail.com: Jan 24 11:53PM -0800 In the old days when you bought a new HD you could download a utility to clone the old drive to it. If the current errors are due to intermittent reads this may clear it up. You might try putting the old drive in a freezer before the clone. Hopefully the OS etc. will be among the first copied.   Of course there are no guarantees.   I will say this much, rebooting stuff like this is overrated. Once you got the thing up and running just never turn it off.   The problem I see is finding a new IDE HD. I am not sure if an adapter exists from IDE to SATA, never looked. (mainly because I am too cheap to buy anything)   Before the freezer trick though, see if maybe it boots more reliably hot, if so then clone it hot. The freezer thing is something I got off the net and used once and it kinda worked.

jurb6006@gmail.com: Jan 24 11:54PM -0800 After rereading your last post i think you might be better off cloning it while hot.

captainvideo462009@gmail.com: Jan 25 05:58AM -0800 > If you ignore this message the machine goes on to eventually boot to a screen that shows a "control panel" with a grid of 4 video monitors showing. The mouse moves but will not select anything to change what is presented. There is no video supplied for this test.   > My son loaned me a couple of old XP discs that he had. One lets me get into a screen with choices that you can make but it apparently goes nowhere. The other does not seem to work at all. If this unit originally came supplied with a disk it is nowhere to be found.   > This machine was never connected to the Internet so I can't imagine that it could have a virus. Also there was no replacement or additions to any hardware, so that could not be an issue. I was hoping that perhaps some of you computer savvy guys might have some suggestions for me. My friend doesn't have a lot of money and truthfully I really hate to give up on this thing at this stage of the game. I've come so far and now I feel like I may be so close. I apologize for the long winded post but I wanted to present all the information. Thanks for any assistance. Lenny   How hot are you talking? It would sure be a pity to kill it before it's "reborn". Lenny

legg <legg@nospam.magma.ca>: Jan 24 11:45PM -0500 >is a stained glass iron use able for rosin core solder on copper?   Stained glass assembly uses lead, so any remenant will be compatible with 60/40 solder and flux.   High wattage irons are useful in soltering heavy gauge mounting tabs and screw posts, in closing sheild seams and in other types of heavy copper soldering. Raising the temperature quickly, completing the soldering and removing the heat source within the thermal time constant of many power semiconductor packages is impractical with smaller irons.   RL

avagadro7@gmail.com: Jan 24 06:47PM -0800 BBBBBBBBBBBBBBBZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZHHHHHHMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMpoppopopBBBBBBBBBBZZZZZZZZZ   https://www.google.com/search?site=imghp&tbm=isch&source=hp&biw=1216&bih=612&q=1994+Bose+Wave+Radio+SCHEMATIC&oq=1994+Bose+Wave+Radio+SCHEMATIC&gs_l=img.12...3594.8779.0.12860.12.2.0.10.0.0.264.264.2-1.1.0....0...1ac.1.64.img..1.0.0.0.Qpu5isZdjyI   POPZICK _____________

captainvideo462009@gmail.com: Jan 24 09:18AM -0800 On Friday, January 6, 2017 at 1:43:02 AM UTC-5, Jon Elson wrote: > without having to keep checking if it stopped.   > Any comments?   > Jon   If you're lucky. Most people aren't though. We were at Best buy shopping for a new refrigerator a few years ago. (Not my idea. My wife couldn't deal with the little bit of rust on the bottom of our 22 year old GE any more). So we donated it to the Boy Scouts and I bit the bullet. Anyway I had done some figuring too. I figured that the damn divorce would have cost me a hell of a lot more than a new refrigerator, so we bought the friggen thing. I mentioned to the sales manager that I was a TV repairman and I commented on the shoddy way things in general were built these days. He took me aside and told me straight out that when buying a major appliance it is now necessary to protect yourself with a service contract. Yes it's a fucking ripoff and I hate paying it every year but we are now on our 4th LG. If I could only get my old GE back.... This is the new norm, and it sucks. And make no mistake, it is the way that dirt bag companies like LG stay in business. Lenny

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captainvideo462009@gmail.com: Jan 24 06:38AM -0800 On Friday, January 6, 2017 at 1:43:02 AM UTC-5, Jon Elson wrote: > without having to keep checking if it stopped.   > Any comments?   > Jon   Jon I hate to say it but I have to side with Jurb there. We just recently went through our fifth coffee maker. Each time one of these pieces of shit fails I go down to the basement and get the trusty old GE out of the box. This was a wedding present in 1977 and in spite of the old lady's complaints about how stained it is, etc I've refused to get rid of it. In over 40 years I think I replaced a thermistor in it. Otherwise it's never failed us. (Hey I like the way the old veteran looks on the counter too and I think I've finally convinced her that we just went through our last crappy coffee maker).   I can relate similar stories about our refrigerator, toaster oven, and electric range.   The washing machine though is another story. It's a Maytag A106. Look it up if you want. It was the 1966 model. A simple helical drive piece of technology. My mother gave it to us in 1979 when they moved to Florida. It slid halfway down a flight of stairs while moving it and continued to work for another 20 some odd years until it started leaking. I rebuilt it with tub seals, bearings, transmissiom reseal etc. It was a big job but was worth every penny. I also replaced the motor with one from the town dump at some point over the years too. There are no electronic sensors and no microprocessor. Just a simple electro mechanical design. And it continues to work. Yes it may use a bit more water as well as electricity than one of the a new piece of shit models out there but perhaps one day my grandchildren will be using it. I doubt that you can say the same about anything that is built today.   My dishwasher is a Kenmore and 20 ears old too and also electro mechanical. I just replaced the motor in that last year. Keep your old stuff. because once you get rid of it you've screwed yourself because you can never get it back. Lenny

"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Jan 24 08:14AM -0800 Voice of Dissent here:   We had an old Maytag at our summer house that ran like a champ - and used 40 gallons of water per full cycle. This is water that we have to pump, heat, and then dispose of *on site*. We use propane for heat via a tankless heater, so there is excellent efficiency - but.   We found a used LG "energy star" front loading unit that for the equivalent load uses eight (8) gallons of water per cycle, uses 1/3 of the additives (detergent and/or bleach) and is a good deal more quiet. We paid $250 for it. It runs about 25 loads per year, so that comes to 800 gallons of water saved in a very fragile environment, not to mention the chemicals not used. That we are on a Class A trout stream makes us perhaps more sensitive than some - but the principle is pretty much the same.   The unit has been in place now for four years. So far, so good and it was used.   At home our 8-year old similar LG (and how we came to choose the one at the summer house) runs about 9 loads per week, and has performer flawlessly. We do the maintenance (clean out the drain valve periodically, run a hot/hot with cleaner about twice a year and so forth. But as to its operation - no problems so far of any nature. That comes to about 120,000 gallons of water saved: 32 x 9 x 52 x 8 = 119,808. Again, not to mention the chemicals not used, the energy saved and so forth. Hot water savings alone are $120/year. Electric savings about 1/3 of that, so $160 per year. Assume 0 cost for a vintage Maytag, and $1,200 for the LG - We are now +$80 with whatever more time we get on the LG. I am not factoring in the water cost, or sewer cost as they are directly tied together. But, 120,000 gallons is not insignificant.   It is entirely possible to purchase well made appliances. And with reasonable care, they will last relatively indefinitely.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Jan 24 11:50AM Firstly does VR stand for Visual Replica, LM3875 amp with 1 valve, a bit smaller and lighter than the original. Originally thinking channel change sw prob as dirty ch good, clean cutting out (with owner). All PbF looks good under magnifying ispection lamp, any known stock fault?. It looks like return to engraving tool with nylon tip rattling pcb while listening to output on phones technique to zero in + redo usual suspect solderings

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Jan 24 06:22AM -0800 Nutcase Kook wrote:     > Firstly does VR stand for Visual Replica   ** Google has the answer - look it up you lazy fucking shit.         .... Phil

"Mr. Man-wai Chang" <toylet.toylet@gmail.com>: Jan 24 08:21PM +0800 > "A problem has been detected and Windows has been shut down to prevent damage to your computer. If this is the first time you have seen this stop error screen restart your computer. If this screen appears again follow these steps: Check for viruses on your computer. Remove any newly installed hard drives or hard drive controllers.Check your hard drive to make sure that it is properly configured and terminated. Run CHKDSK/F to check for hard drive corruption and then restart your computer.   > Technical information: > OX0000007B (OXFA2C3640, OXC0000534, 0X00000000, 0X00000000).   Unplug all USB devices except keyboard and mouse, and turn on the PC again.   What version of Window$?   -- @~@ Remain silent! Drink, Blink, Stretch! Live long and prosper!! / v \ Simplicity is Beauty! /( _ )\ May the Force and farces be with you! ^ ^ (x86_64 Ubuntu 9.10) Linux 2.6.39.3 不借貸! 不詐騙! 不援交! 不打交! 不打劫! 不自殺! 請考慮綜援 (CSSA): http://www.swd.gov.hk/tc/index/site_pubsvc/page_socsecu/sub_addressesa

Paul <nospam@needed.invalid>: Jan 24 09:08AM -0500 > If you ignore this message the machine goes on to eventually boot to a screen that shows a "control panel" with a grid of 4 video monitors showing. The mouse moves but will not select anything to change what is presented. There is no video supplied for this test.   > My son loaned me a couple of old XP discs that he had. One lets me get into a screen with choices that you can make but it apparently goes nowhere. The other does not seem to work at all. If this unit originally came supplied with a disk it is nowhere to be found.   > This machine was never connected to the Internet so I can't imagine that it could have a virus. Also there was no replacement or additions to any hardware, so that could not be an issue. I was hoping that perhaps some of you computer savvy guys might have some suggestions for me. My friend doesn't have a lot of money and truthfully I really hate to give up on this thing at this stage of the game. I've come so far and now I feel like I may be so close. I apologize for the long winded post but I wanted to present all the information. Thanks for any assistance. Lenny   http://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/dcEAAOSw~oFXImvd/s-l300.jpg   Take the hard drive, over to your Technician machine.   Examine the jumper on the IDE drive, and make sure you select a setting consistent with whatever is on your IDE cable already. )Master/Slave or Cable_Select/Cable_Select and so on).   You can use Macrium Reflect Free to clone or image it. Clone is useful, if you have a new drive, and want to move the contents over.   http://www.macrium.com/reflectfree.aspx   I would have a spare drive ready, to take a copy of the drive the first time you power up the Technician Computer. Just in case the drive is nearly dead or something.   You can use a utility to check the S.M.A.R.T. I use the Reallocated Sectors raw data value as an indicator of health. (zero equals good)   https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/S.M.A.R.T.   The drive can also be benchmarked with HDTune, as bad spots in the drive, read out slowly. And a read benchmark (not a write benchmark) can spot this condition.   *******   The back of the unit, the I/O area looks like the I/O plate on a microATX board. There could be a microATX motherboard inside the unit.   And such a PCB could have a CR2032 CMOS coin cell, for maintaining the time setting, as well as the BIOS settings. The coin cell should measure about 3.1V or so, from the top surface of the cell, to any metal ground structure you can use for a ground connection.   The coin cell is a nuisance to get out of the socket. Do not use too much force. I told one poster to check the cell, and he comes back later and tells me he has ripped the CR2032 socket off the motherboard. Don't do that...   If the company who designed it, did a good job, the "BIOS defaults" established by "Load Setup Defaults", should match the normal settings used to make the PVR boot. It really should not require programming after a battery replacement, to make it work. An item of that vintage is likely IDE (ribbon cable only), and only the boot order could screw it up. It isn't likely to support RAID (the motherboard maker can shave $3 off the cost by using the lowest cost SKU for the Southbridge chip). And I don't know what else could be preventing it from booting. While it could be corrupted, it does seem to have a readable MBR and IDed itself at boot time. Some portion of the disk, must load, in order for that message to print on the screen. I'm favoring the CMOS coin cell at this point, but it's still possible to stop the boot, with only a single bad or missing file on C: .   Certainly the dilapidated condition (rotting ribbon cable), that doesn't sound good. There are plenty of root causes for something that "ripe". I have ribbon cables here that are 18 years old, and they're mint. It's even possible the unit has operated with a high internal temperature for a while (cooling failure maybe). Cooling fans, might have an average 24/7 life of 3 years. The power supply on that unit does have a grille, and there is probably a 40mm fan on the PSU. Something that old, probably does not have a "low power" CPU in it, so could cook whatever sits inside the box with it, if the fan goes out.   I'm surprised with 14 bulging caps, that it even survived without burning any MOSFETs or toroids. If you managed to repair that without ruining the motherboard, you really are CaptainVideo :-) If I did 14 caps in a row, the board would be toast. On these computer motherboards, it's easy to lift the foil. I changed out a voltage regular (14 pins), and managed to lift one pad on it. And I was being careful.   Paul

elvillafane@gmail.com: Jan 24 04:38AM -0800

"Benderthe.evilrobot" <Benderthe.evilrobot@virginmedia.com>: Jan 23 10:10PM "Percival P. Cassidy" <Nobody@NotMyISP.net> wrote in message news:eekik2Fi1deU1@mid.individual.net... > UPSes because they have no cooling and are designed so that during the > short time the standard battery lasts they will not reach an unsafe > temperature.   All I've seen so far had "snapper disk" thermal cutouts. Don't know the correct name, but usually a small bakelite cylinder with a swaged on aluminium cap and 2x 1/4" spade terminals and are usually mounted by a loose flange with 2 screw holes. The active bit is a bi-metal disk that is bowed, it snaps to bowed the other way when it gets hot.   You'll always find one on the magnetron/fan duct housing in a microwave oven, they can turn up in pretty much anything that could overheat.

Michael Black <et472@ncf.ca>: Jan 23 01:22PM -0500

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captainvideo462009@gmail.com: Jan 23 07:42AM -0800 I installed this unit for a friend about 12 years ago. It is a windows based 8 channel security type DVR. It uses XP as an operating system. This was made by Speco. They no longer support it. My buddy said that it started to become intermittent.   It had about 14 bulged electroltics on the mother board. It was a job but I managed to remove and replace them all, (plated through holes). Also the insulation on the IDE cable that connects the CDrom to the mother board was flaking off and it looked like some of the wires in the cable could have been shorting to each other or perhaps ground. I replaced the cable also.   After the machine has been off for a few days initially I get the following blue screen:   "A problem has been detected and Windows has been shut down to prevent damage to your computer. If this is the first time you have seen this stop error screen restart your computer. If this screen appears again follow these steps: Check for viruses on your computer. Remove any newly installed hard drives or hard drive controllers.Check your hard drive to make sure that it is properly configured and terminated. Run CHKDSK/F to check for hard drive corruption and then restart your computer.   Technical information: OX0000007B (OXFA2C3640, OXC0000534, 0X00000000, 0X00000000).   I don't know what this "Technical information" means, bit if I shut down as it says and then reboot, the unit seems to "sort of" boot, and as it's booting when the Windows logo comes up briefly it says "Windows Embedded" whatever that means. It progresses and eventually shows the following message:   "Low disk space.You are running very low on disk space, DiSS (C:). To free space on this drive by deleting old or unnecessary files, click here". I click that and I get the following message:   "Windows cannot locate the disk cleanup program. The file may be corrupted or may have been deleted from your computer. To reinstall disk cleanup run windows setup again". If you ignore this message the machine goes on to eventually boot to a screen that shows a "control panel" with a grid of 4 video monitors showing. The mouse moves but will not select anything to change what is presented. There is no video supplied for this test.   My son loaned me a couple of old XP discs that he had. One lets me get into a screen with choices that you can make but it apparently goes nowhere. The other does not seem to work at all. If this unit originally came supplied with a disk it is nowhere to be found.   This machine was never connected to the Internet so I can't imagine that it could have a virus. Also there was no replacement or additions to any hardware, so that could not be an issue. I was hoping that perhaps some of you computer savvy guys might have some suggestions for me. My friend doesn't have a lot of money and truthfully I really hate to give up on this thing at this stage of the game. I've come so far and now I feel like I may be so close. I apologize for the long winded post but I wanted to present all the information. Thanks for any assistance. Lenny

Adrian Caspersz <email@here.invalid>: Jan 23 04:37PM On 23/01/17 15:42, captainvideo462009@gmail.com wrote: I was > the game. I've come so far and now I feel like I may be so close. I > apologize for the long winded post but I wanted to present all the > information. Thanks for any assistance. Lenny   Keep any consumer XP CDs well away from this, you don't want to install a new OS! There will be specific driver files and applications for the hardware that you won't want to lose.   OX0000007B is 'inaccesible boot volume'. Your HD is close to end of life, I guess.   Get that drive out and backup a whole disk image of it. Plenty of tools around for this. Install a new hard disk and restore the image. If this is a larger drive, you could resize the partition. Otherwise do a manual disc clean up. Probably some adhoc video files have been created than you can delete.   -- Adrian C

teryone99@gmail.com: Jan 23 05:59AM -0800 Hie. Did you find it. Im also looking for the same part. KM/EX-E2-HF

teryone99@gmail.com: Jan 23 05:59AM -0800 Hie. Did you find it. Im also looking for the same part. KM/EX-E2-HF

teryone99@gmail.com: Jan 23 05:59AM -0800 Hie. Did you find it. Im also looking for the same part. KM/EX-E2-HF

"Percival P. Cassidy" <Nobody@NotMyISP.net>: Jan 22 03:25PM -0500 On 01/22/2017 11:00 AM, Ancel UnfetteredOne wrote:     >> Is it worth replacing the battery just in case, or is this thing ready >> for the recyclers?   > I usually slap on a used auto battery with cable extension to get a couple hours backup on my PC.   A few years back I read that one should not do this with consumer-grade UPSes because they have no cooling and are designed so that during the short time the standard battery lasts they will not reach an unsafe temperature.   Anyway, I replaced the battery by a used one from another UPS, and all seems to be fine.   Perce

bud-- <null@void.com>: Jan 22 01:35PM -0600 On 1/10/2017 10:09 AM, Ralph Mowery wrote: > to be noticed when there is probaly over 50 feet of cheep wire from the > socket to the breaker box of the house and hard telling how many miles > of even cheaper made wire to the power company.   For the definitive answer from an electrical engineer, see the answer by Bill Shymanski https://groups.google.com/forum/?hl=en#!topic/alt.engineering.electrical/eWXk4BjP-rM

bud-- <null@void.com>: Jan 22 01:40PM -0600 On 1/7/2017 10:24 PM, isw wrote: > to learn the new techniques and so on that were mandatory to install the > stuff safely. It was only when it was installed just like Cu that it was > prone to overheating.   The problem is only for 15 and 20 amp branch circuits. Larger wire is used often without problems.   Around 1965 the price of copper went through the roof and aluminum started to be used on 15 and 20A circuits. Failed connections and fires resulted, and in 1971 UL pulled the listing on that aluminum wire and the aluminum rating for devices like switches and receptacles. New standards soon followed. The new aluminum wire was harder, and devices had a CO/ALR (Revised) rating.   The CPSC had extensive testing done on aluminum connections. That testing found that the aluminum oxide surface insulating layer caused much of the problem - the actual metal-metal contact could be quite small. Installations done "properly" could still fail. The probability of a failure was just higher for aluminum than copper. Even though there is a new alloy, most of the wire actually installed is the "old technology" stuff. "Backstab" device connections were never listed for use with aluminum.   If someone is working with this 15 & 20A wire there is a good paper on connections at: http://www.kinginnovation.com/pdfs/ReducingFire070706.pdf It is written by the engineer that supervised the testing for the CPSC. Use of antioxide pastes is generally recommended.   The best connectors are http://www.kinginnovation.com/products/electrical-products/alumiconn/ They have a screw connection that likely breaks through surface oxides. (Connections for large wires also deform the wire.)

Jon Elson <elson@pico-systems.com>: Jan 22 01:02PM -0600 > And if you want, some junk yards and metal recyclers have a > we-buy-all-appliances policy. Call today. No way! I spent SERIOUS money for this thing, and intend to wear it out. I've already replaced the main bearing/seal assembly once, and the drain pump once. Now that some of the kids have moved out, it only runs one shift a day, so ought to last a bit longer before major overhauls.   Jon

Phil Hobbs <pcdhSpamMeSenseless@electrooptical.net>: Jan 22 11:54AM -0500 On 01/20/2017 07:14 PM, Michael Black wrote: > hobbyist will use copper foil, while for churches, it's something more > substantial.   > Michael   I grew up in a house with leaded glass windows, and it was really just lead--I had to replace a pane or two, which I did with a knife and some JB Weld or Devcon putty.   Cheers   Phil Hobbs   -- Dr Philip C D Hobbs Principal Consultant ElectroOptical Innovations LLC Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics   160 North State Road #203 Briarcliff Manor NY 10510   hobbs at electrooptical dot net http://electrooptical.net

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