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"Kenny" <me@privacy.net>: Feb 25 01:27AM wrote in message news:n0b1bc1agjpqo6l6es1kijs5nj4rhe8no3@4ax.com...   I could not resist buying this. A heavy Hammond Organ. It appears to be from the early 70's. A local second hand store had it for $5 marked (AS-IS). The wooden cabinet is near perfect. But there is no plug on the cord, so they could not test it (and they dont do any repairs).   I was hoping it had tube electronics, but it appears to be solid state, meaning that if there are circuit problems, I probably wont be able to fix it, since I only work with tubes. But I already know the speakers in these organs are worth a lot more than $5, and I can see making something from the wooden cabinet.   This is likely one of the most complex pieces of electronics I ever will attempt to fix. Then again, for all I know, it may work once I put a plug on the cord.... (It looks like the plug was torn off when they moved it).   Either way, I know I got my $5 worth of parts at the least...   This thing is heavy, heavy, heavy.... The workers at the store were all women and did not want to help load it. And I have physical problems which limit me. So I still need to get some guys to help me with it next week. I just paid for it and they have my name on it, marked SOLD.   Before I left, I wrote down the model #.   I am NOT finding any schematic online. If any of you know where to find one, it's a model # 227214. Appears to be called a "Aurora Custom 1 (AV28)" (from what I could find online).   I am no organist, but if I can get this thing working, I know I'll have fun with it....   photos of the innards of a similar model: https://monkey.org/~smart/hammond/index.html   top view https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Hammond_Aurora_Classic.jpg   This any help? https://archive.org/details/HSM4952016 Maybe try this forum: http://www.organforum.com/forums/   Kenny

oldschool@tubes.com: Feb 24 04:59PM -0600 I could not resist buying this. A heavy Hammond Organ. It appears to be from the early 70's. A local second hand store had it for $5 marked (AS-IS). The wooden cabinet is near perfect. But there is no plug on the cord, so they could not test it (and they dont do any repairs).   I was hoping it had tube electronics, but it appears to be solid state, meaning that if there are circuit problems, I probably wont be able to fix it, since I only work with tubes. But I already know the speakers in these organs are worth a lot more than $5, and I can see making something from the wooden cabinet.   This is likely one of the most complex pieces of electronics I ever will attempt to fix. Then again, for all I know, it may work once I put a plug on the cord.... (It looks like the plug was torn off when they moved it).   Either way, I know I got my $5 worth of parts at the least...   This thing is heavy, heavy, heavy.... The workers at the store were all women and did not want to help load it. And I have physical problems which limit me. So I still need to get some guys to help me with it next week. I just paid for it and they have my name on it, marked SOLD.   Before I left, I wrote down the model #.   I am NOT finding any schematic online. If any of you know where to find one, it's a model # 227214. Appears to be called a "Aurora Custom 1 (AV28)" (from what I could find online).   I am no organist, but if I can get this thing working, I know I'll have fun with it....   photos of the innards of a similar model: https://monkey.org/~smart/hammond/index.html   top view https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Hammond_Aurora_Classic.jpg

oldschool@tubes.com: Feb 25 08:27PM -0600 On Sat, 25 Feb 2017 17:48:00 -0600, "Dave M" <dgminala@mediacombb.net> wrote:   >out of production for many years.   >Cheers, >Dave M   This is a good suggestion. I'll give it a try!   Thanks   ----

MJC <gravity@mjcoon.plus.com>: Feb 25 12:16AM In article <n0b1bc1agjpqo6l6es1kijs5nj4rhe8no3@4ax.com>, oldschool@tubes.com says...   > top view > https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Hammond_Aurora_Classic.jpg   Wow, looks like the sort of thing that should rise into view in a cinema on a lift being played very ostentatiously (Carlo Curley or Liberace?)...   Mike.

"Benderthe.evilrobot" <Benderthe.evilrobot@virginmedia.com>: Feb 24 09:33PM "amdx" <nojunk@knology.net> wrote in message news:o8isvk$b26$1@dont-email.me... >> you have any in you junk box please contact me.   > You can't come up with an old portable AM radio to scrap it from? > Go to Goodwill or Salvation Army or a yard sale,   Any portable set old enough to have a 3/8" ferrite rod could have some value as a collectible. Some of the shirt pocket transistor radios with the little ferrite slab are even more valuable.   The all in one pre-micro music centers usually have a proper ferrite rod, as do most separates tuner units.   They have almost no resale value, except high end separates.

"Benderthe.evilrobot" <Benderthe.evilrobot@virginmedia.com>: Feb 24 09:35PM "radiotek" <radiotek.12f352d8@diybanter.com> wrote in message news:radiotek.12f352d8@diybanter.com... > ferrite rod.   > I just purchased a few junker radios from ebay and saved a lot.   > I do appreciate you trying to help.   Could be worth researching collectibles values before ripping.   Some might be worth refurbishing.

Pat <pat@nospam.us>: Feb 24 04:46PM -0500 On Fri, 24 Feb 2017 14:00:20 -0500, micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com> wrote:   >company (but who is not interested in questions like the one in my OP) >who is normally a stickler for things, agreed that I didnt' have to have >a battery to run the alarm, since outages are so rare here.   That seems like an odd thing for your friend to say. Alarm systems have batteries so the bad guys can't disable them by cutting power to your house. Same with the phone lines used to dial out for help. It is easy to cut land lines. That's why newer alarm panels often use cellular. Not perfect, but it takes more knowledge and equipment to jam a cellular call than to cut landline phone wires.

Steve & Lynn <cheryl@must.die>: Feb 24 01:50PM > A few things:   > Alarms from the factory have a DEFAULT code built   YOU PROBABLY GAVE THE CODE TO YOUR ALARM TO SITRE MAGANA SO HE CAN COME OVER AND YOU CAN ENJOY WATCHING HIM RAPE A DOG AND SERVICE A 72 YEAR OLD DUDE.

VanguardLH <V@nguard.LH>: Feb 24 04:43PM -0600 micky wrote:   > the dialer if there's a power failure. It's not meant to retain things > in memory except user-decided things like the time and which zones are > excluded.   You cannot program anything without power - unless this panel has dip, toggle, or other types of switches to hardwire in that "data".   Another possibility (already mentioned) is the use of EEPROM; however, there would need to exist power to raise the voltage to burn in the new values. Are there EEPROMs on the PCB?   How can you enter and save a security code without there being power? Electronically it is possible when there exists power that will be saved after power is lost (battery, capacitor, EEPROM) - but you still need power during that operation. From the images I found online, there are no switches on the PCB for that device, just a 4-pin header (S1) where you use jumpers:   http://s3.amazonaws.com/f01.justanswer.com/markpope123/2011-11-19_201731_2011-11-19_12.09.16.jpg   Ah, finally found something:   http://www.alarmsbc.com/dscpwr.htm#832 EEPROM memory - will not lose programming or system status on complete AC and battery failure I couldn't tell from the photos I found online if there was an EEPROM, plus the pics showed the component side of the PCB so I couldn't tell what, if anything, was on the other side. I cannot guarantee the above URL specifies only the 832 since the 5010 replaced it (and they might be showing the specs for the 5010).   An EEPROM still requires power to program it. EEPROM = electrically erasable programmable read-only memory. You need power to erase or program values into its storage. Some EEPROMs have a built-in charge pump to attain the higher voltage while others require external circuitry to apply the higher voltage. But the EEPROM requires power to program it. You said you entered in a new access code. That meant you must have connected it to power.   The values should stay in the EEPROM unless you did something by accident, like after plugging in the A/C power adapter. EEPROMs have a limited number of write cycles but I doubt you have programmed it a million times.   https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/EEPROM#Failure_modes (another possibility is a bad, weak, or leaky EEPROM)   There is mention of a maximum retention time of 10 years for values stored in EEPROMs. How long has this one been sitting idle and unconnected from power? *Oh oh*, "About 9 years ago I started to install a burglar alarm". I missed than in reading your original post. So you waited too long to refresh the EEPROM and the pics of the PCB don't exude an impression that this one has auto-refresh circuitry but then that would require power, too, and refreshing means more writes (so the EEPROM could get consumed by frequent refreshing).   The AlarmsBC web site has links to free manuals at:   http://www.alarmsbc.com/manuals.htm   I clicked on "DSC" and found 2 manuals for the 832 (5010) depending on the version of the unit. I looked at version 1 of the manual. Page 7 says how to program the access codes. No mention of enabling a switch or jumpering of the S1 header to program the EEPROM. However, there must be power available when using the device, even to program the access codes. There is no troubleshooting section in their manual.   Looks like the *oh oh* problem is that you expected the EEPROM without refresh to retain its values forever. EEPROMs leak the charges (hopefully slowly) but those charges do dissipate over time. 9 years is too close to the 10-year claim for retention (and who knows what quality of EEPROMs went into this device).   [E]EPROMs have a shelf life regarding retention. They have a finite data retention time. DSC probably didn't expect something laying around for a decade to still need to use the same access code. Who'd remember that after a decade's absence? They begin to forget their data after 10-15 years. Yours was on the shy side of that. Mask ROMs don't have that problem because the values are etched (burned) permanently into the chip at production time. There are SuperFlash EEPROMs that claim data retention for 20-100 years (but that's still finite); see http://www.sst.com/technology/sst-superflash-technology/first-generation-esf1. That was introduced back in 1993. Don't know if DSC used any. PC mobos adopted them.   After 10 years of absence (no refresh) with or without power is too long to expect no degradation (data corruption or loss) for EEPROMs.

"Benderthe.evilrobot" <Benderthe.evilrobot@virginmedia.com>: Feb 24 09:22PM "MJC" <gravity@mjcoon.plus.com> wrote in message news:MPG.33194c2971864c29c@news.plus.net...   > Is there anything that I can do for some more diagnosis? The > motherboards is a GA-8ISXT-FS and the PSU FSP300-60ATV with a 20-pin > main power connector.   Inspecting the electrolytic capacitors on both items is the place to start.   An ESR meter would take the guesswork out of it, but the good ones aren't cheap. The most usual sign is bulged tops on the capacitor cans, but they can also appear slightly sunken - if they're running hot enough to build up a head of steam, they can lose electrolyte through the end seal - when they cool, a vacuum forms inside. Since dodgy electrolytics tend to get hot, the plastic covering sleeve can deteriorate giving the capacitor a tired shabby appearance.   If an ATX PSU is reluctant to start; keep trying is a bad idea - they can suddenly burst into life without any regulation!

MJC <gravity@mjcoon.plus.com>: Feb 24 10:18PM In article <Jt1sA.573666$he2.19680@fx22.am4>, Benderthe.evilrobot@virginmedia.com says... > ... > If an ATX PSU is reluctant to start; keep trying is a bad idea - they can > suddenly burst into life without any regulation!   Thanks - wow, concentrating on the PSU stand-alone and not plugged into the m/b seems like a Good Idea!   Mike.

tlvp <mPiOsUcB.EtLlLvEp@att.net>: Feb 20 05:12PM -0500 On Sun, 19 Feb 2017 13:00:11 -0800, Jeff Liebermann wrote, re #878#:   >>"Announcement for switch [digit] [digit] [digit] dash [digit]."   > I tried it again and got the same thing as you ending in "Announcement > for switch 40-6". 40 is the SID (system identifier) for the San Fran...   Sure enough, the digits I heard indicate several VZW centers in my state.   > The 6 is the NID (network identifier).   My NID digit was "2". Technically, though I'm on the Verizon network, I'm activated on Page Plus Cellular. No idea what difference that may make.   Anyway, thanks for the SID lookup URL. Cheers, -- tlvp -- Avant de repondre, jeter la poubelle, SVP.

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Feb 18 07:48PM -0800 On Sat, 18 Feb 2017 21:14:27 +0000 (UTC), Stijn De Jong >Beta is the Southeast FACING vertical antenna on the cell tower >Gamma is the Southwest FACING vertical antenna on the cell tower >http://www.evdoforums.com/thread15374.html   I dialed #878# and got: "Welcome to Verizon Wireless. Your call cannot be completed as dialed..."   >cell id. Also, the newer Android APIs now seem to expose the frequency >bands: >http://people.csail.mit.edu/bkph/cellular_repeater_inside.shtml   Nice article. I think there is a way of extracting the sector but I don't know what it might be and am too lazy to work it out right now. My leaky roof and irate customers come first.   -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Feb 22 08:47PM -0500 I have one of thoe little 2.5" LED flashlights, that have 9 small LEDs and use 3 AAA batteries. It's like the ones that Harbor Freight sometimes gives away free, same size, but nicer.   The guy I bought the first one from said it would run for days on one set of batteries, but I forgot that it was still on and i put it in my pocket and an hour or two later, I noticed it was on because it was warm.   It's still really bright, but if it's noticeably warm, how long can the baterries really last? Certainly not two days. ?     I once, recently, forgot the screen was lit on my 5.5" smart phone and only noticed because it felt warm in my pocket.   It's got a proximity sensor but I don't remember what it's supposed to do.

oldschool@tubes.com: Feb 24 03:53PM -0600 On Wed, 22 Feb 2017 20:47:57 -0500, micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com> wrote:   >only noticed because it felt warm in my pocket.   >It's got a proximity sensor but I don't remember what it's supposed to >do.   I buy these at Walmart for $1 each. I use them a lot. I have left them on overnight and they still work, but that greatly shortens the battery life. If they are not left on for long periods of time, they last weeks and that is being used almost daily. For a buck each, I usually buy 5 at a time and that keep me with working flashlites for a few months. I keep one in the car, one in the truck, one in the house and a few other places.   Unless I can buy batteries real cheap at some dollar store, (like 8 batteries for a buck), it's not worth replacing the batteries. I just toss them and buy more flashlights which cost $1 WITH batteries. I have never had any of them get hot or cause any problems at all. I did have a few with switch problems, but very few. Since I have plenty ones with dead batteries, I just swap the batteries from one with a bad switch to one that still works.   I have saved the LEDs from a lot of them that I toss. Not sure why, but some day they might have a use... I guess these are just meant to be used and disposed..... But I have replaced the batteries a few times too.   Either way, they are 1000X better than the old flashlights I grew up with, that had very short battery life and almost always developed switch problems after a month or less.

dplatt@coop.radagast.org (Dave Platt): Feb 24 01:44PM -0800 In article <383537d2-ce37-4a8e-8685-af05d9983fc2@googlegroups.com>,   >> (If the cells are wired in parallel instead of series, then you are >> correct, but that isn't very common.)   >The three similar lights I have, they are in parallel. Which is why I probably wrongly assumed these were as well.   If they're in parallel, then they almost certainly aren't driving the LEDs directly... a blue LED (with or without a white phosphor) requires more than 3 volts in order to conduct.   So, if they're in parallel and are feeding only 1.5 volts into the LED head, there is probably a voltage-boost circuit (e.g. a "Joule Thief") which is stepping up the voltage before it reaches the LEDs.   And, the step-up comes at a cost. If the Joule Thief has to triple the voltage before it feeds the LEDs, and the LEDs are drawing a total of 100 mA at that voltage, then the Joule Thief will be pulling 300 mA or more out of the batteries.   There ain't no free lunch, alas.   A simple series arrangement is less expensive, but it'll end up wasting some power in a current-limiting resistor (unless the flashlight makers go _really_ cheap) and the flashlight will slowly dim as the battery runs down. A step-up circuit can feed a fairly constant current through the LEDs until the batteries are almost completely exhausted, and it allows for a "variable brightness" feature (pulse-width-modulate the LEDs, or step up to a lower voltage which results in a lower current).

Steve & Lynn <cheryl@must.die>: Feb 24 01:54PM > Funny thing, these types of lights are often give-away items at Solar Energy conferences - > I have been to my fair share, and how they came into my hands. Otherwise I would not touch this cr*p on a bet.   FUNNY THING, THESE TYPES OF SEXUALLY TRANSMITTED DISEASES ARE OFTEN GIVE AWAY ITEMS AT GAY ORGIES. PETER WRECK HAS BEEN TO HIS FAIR SHARE, AND HOW THEY CAME INTO HIS HANDS. OTHERWISE HE WOULD TOUCH SITRE MAGANA'S DICK FOR FREE.

oldschool@tubes.com: Feb 21 04:07PM -0600 >type solder suckers is cleaning them. You can shake a fair amount of the >old solder out of the bulb but quite a bit remains. You have to be >imaginative and patient to get it out.   I've never seen the blue ones, but I remember having a lot of problems with the tip getting clogged in the red one.

oldschool@tubes.com: Feb 20 06:37AM -0600 Back in the 70s, I used a red bulb with a special plastic tip that did not melt. They were cheap and did a fair job. Then there was solder wick. That worked well on PC boards, but not real well on terminal strips and tube sockets. Plus is was fairly costly.   So, what's the latest in desoldering gadgets? I need to get something for recapping, and am not sure what to buy. I see both of the (above) are still sold.   One other thing, I should pick up some pot and switch cleaner. I know this has greatly changed due to clean air laws. Where do I even begin getting something that works well, and is not overly priced? (Brand name)? I hope they have not made useless cleaners, like they have done with auto products. (I remember when carb cleaner actually cleaned!!! )   Since it appears that most online stores have a rather large minimum order as well as high shipping fees, I am limited to Radio Shack, unless there is some smaller online source that sells in small quanties, or maybe ebay. But buying online I need to know what I am ordering ahead of time.   I'll be using this almost entirely on 40 to 60 year old tube type electronics.

oldschool@tubes.com: Feb 21 02:09PM -0600 >located at Redstone.   >John >John DeArmond   I did not find that one on the web, but I did find THIS: http://alex-audio.com/en/prod/world-biggest-speaker/   The Woofers are 80 inches each.... Handle 5000 watts per channel.   Heck, that would involve a power amp with around 200 6L6 or 807 tubes in Push-Pull Parallel-Parallel-Parallel-Parallel etc... For EACH channel...... (And an output transformer about 3 foot big, weighing close to the weight of a Harley motor cycle, and costing 10X the price for a brand new Harley).....

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Feb 20 07:37PM -0800 >Back in the 70s, I used a red bulb with a special plastic tip that did >not melt.   Sigh. That goes way back. I graduated to a pump type desoldering tool as soon as they were available: <http://www.ebay.com/itm/300771835247> For $1.15/ea, get a pile of them.   Solder wick is useful for some things, but I avoid using it. Details if you want them later.   Next, I bought and rebuilt a Pace desoldering station: <http://802.11junk.com/jeffl/crud/pace-desoldering-station.jpg> It worked well for me for many years. I now have several similar machines.   I then went to a hot air SMT desoldering station. Not this one, but this is what I would recommend: <http://www.ebay.com/itm/191557453776> However, I would not use it on terminal strips or tube socket. It's made for PCB's only.   >I need to get something for recapping, and am not sure what to buy. I >see both of the (above) are still sold.   For recapping, I use just a soldering iron to heat both leads of the capacitor alternately and just rock the capacitor out. Or, I cut off the capacitor and extract the leads one at a time. That leaves the holes plugged with solder, which I remove with either the hand pump or the Pace desoldering station. I suggest something like this: <http://www.ebay.com/131493990376>       -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

Foxs Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Feb 20 07:46AM -0600 > So, what's the latest in desoldering gadgets?   One of these. <http://www.ebay.com/itm/381865048840>   > One other thing, I should pick up some pot and switch > cleaner.   <https://www.radioshack.com/products/deoxit-d5s-6-spray-contact-cleaner-and-rejuvenator>           -- Jeff-1.0 wa6fwi http://www.foxsmercantile.com

micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Feb 22 08:58PM -0500 In sci.electronics.repair, on Wed, 22 Feb 2017 11:27:45 -0500, R2D4 >model that will last. This definitely isn't like the blanket I had >while growing up 25 years ago; that one lasted for 15 years with no >issues.   This might be a good excuse to buy a kill-o-watt meter.   Also you could use a regular ohm or volt meter clipped to a hat pin -- well I guess it's hard to find a hat pin, but you couldl use a corsage pin == with a nice enlarged head and I think you could puncture the insulatio at various places along the route until you find a spot where it's not proportional. I don't this would cause any visible harm or any danger. (once you take out the pin, that is.) Then you could cut into the blanket and figure out what's going on. Or maybe, the litle devils is in the control box. Might be even easer to debug and disarm.   When I first started on electrical repairs, not counting the Lionel train, it was the family's '52 Hudson. The battery was dead every morning. All I had for test equipemnt was an AC cord, a socket, a 40 watt lighbulb, and an icepick. But it was enough.

sam@repairfaq.org (Samuel M. Goldwasser): Feb 24 04:42PM -0500 > This new Sunbeam heated mattress pad we picked up last fall will be > used no more than a max of 4 out of 10 (no preheat which does a level > 10 for 30 min).   That's quite possible. All I was suggesting is that forgoing Preheat (which is my favorite mode!) may not do that much comparing it's 20 minutes with the rest of the 10 hours on period even if at the 4/10 setting.   Depending on size, the normal current when in the on part of the cycle is order of 0.5 and 1.5 A. However, since the current decreases as it heats, it's not really possible to provide exact values. But measuring and recording it when cold at the start of each season could be useful.   When first turned on, regardless of whether Preheat is selected, some of these (or all) turn on at a constant (though possibly not full) power for a minute or two before the PWB kicks in.   -- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/ Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/ +Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm | Mirror Sites: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html   Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is ignored unless my full name AND either lasers or electronics is included in the subject line. Or, you can contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.

micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Feb 25 02:27PM -0500 In sci.electronics.repair, on Fri, 24 Feb 2017 18:47:49 -0800 (PST),   >> That you didn't know what H20 or Redpocket are. I don't either but I >> just feel ignorant.   >A Redpocket is something I thought I might find in a Redcoat..   Of course!   >> If you don't know what Saturday is, you're definitely old.   >Ah... reprieved (I think). If "Saturday" is still the sixth day of the week, I've got at least some time left!   I think it's only the sixth day of the week in France.   If you're using windows and you click on the time in the lower right corner, a calendar comes up and Saturday is 7th.

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micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Feb 25 04:32AM -0500 In sci.electronics.repair, on Fri, 24 Feb 2017 18:47:01 -0500, Michael   >I've taken some apart, and I don't see anything but the LEDs. So they >have to be in parallel, and rely on the bettery itself to supply some >level of series resistance.   Sometimes one or two of the bulbs go out, so I think that also means parallel.

"Benderthe.evilrobot" <Benderthe.evilrobot@virginmedia.com>: Feb 25 08:07PM "MJC" <gravity@mjcoon.plus.com> wrote in message news:MPG.331ac172b068a710d@news.plus.net... >> suddenly burst into life without any regulation!   > Thanks - wow, concentrating on the PSU stand-alone and not plugged into > the m/b seems like a Good Idea!   You need a dummy load for that.   Only the 5V & 3.3V rails are regulated, once they come up to spec, the PWM throttles back to idle - the other rails will collapse if you try to draw current.   My dummy load uses both filaments of a H4 headlamp bulb for the 5 & 3.3 rails, an indicator bulb for the +12V and dash bulbs for the rest.   That loads it well enough to scope all the rails for ripple.   There's usually a very small electrolytic close to the SMPSU chip that samples the error voltage - if that's one of the expired, the PSU can go bang.

Steve & Lynn <cheryl@must.die>: Feb 22 06:23PM > On Sun, 19 Feb 2017 07:38:58 -0600, Steve Kraus   > If they are only a minute off, or even 5 minutes, you're doing good. > They are not meant for precision.   IT TOOK SITRE MAGANA ABOUT FIVE MINUTES TO CUT HIS HAMSTER UP WITH A PAIR OF SCISSORS.

vjp2.at@at.BioStrategist.dot.dot.com: Feb 25 01:41AM THanks. Well, worst case, I'll use up th eminutes on redpocket then switch to H2O     - = - Vasos Panagiotopoulos, Columbia'81+, Reagan, Mozart, Pindus, BioStrategist http://www.panix.com/~vjp2/vasos.htm ---{Nothing herein constitutes advice. Everything fully disclaimed.}--- [Homeland Security means private firearms not lazy obstructive guards] [Urb sprawl confounds terror] [Phooey on GUI: Windows for subprime Bimbos]

micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Feb 25 03:23PM -0500 In sci.electronics.repair, on Wed, 22 Feb 2017 07:14:05 +1100, Clifford >> But they BOTH worked on the DASH JR. CLues?   >Most "Dual SIM" phones are like that. The 2nd SIM only works on 2G, >only one SIM can connect to a modern network.   This doesn't refer to the question at hand, but I t hought my experience over the last day would be worth posting (if not worth reading..   When the sim came in the mail it said that I shouldn't download data until I get a data plan becuase it woudl be very expensive. I didnt' get a data plan because.. could be wrong but I think I can get a much better one when I get there.   So i was trying to turn off my data, but up until this morning, I'd only found "turn off background data", not enough.   So yesterday and today I put in the new sim and tapped a couple things settling on AT&T, at least I thought so, but when I got to the notification line, a message went by that I have no ATT service!! And instead of one white triangle (with the tall side at the right), I had two triangles and they were both blank inside.   I went back and just for a test I made the new sim my main sim, and then the message just said "no service", becuase it didn't know which service the new sim was supposed to have.   So I made ATT the main sim again, by turning the second sim off with its slide switch on the SIM page, and then I noticed Activities and calls were set for ATT 012, SMS was set for ATT 01. bit cellular data was set for the other sim!! So i set it to ATT, and I'll bet that covers all the data. Then I went back to Settings/Data usage, where I had tried to change it before, and it said "SIM off, to see the number, first turn it on" Since I didn't want to turn on the new sim, I tapped cancel and then it just returned to Settings.   So then I did turn on the second one, and I'm not getting a message about no service... Well of course, because ATT is still working fine. I have two triangles, one white and one empty. (Later I turned off the second sim but I stil have two triangles.)   But I might be slowing something down or wasting battery to keep looking for a signal for the second sim so I'll turn it off soon.   But the point was that the setting I wanted seems to be under SIM / Activities / Cellular Data   BTW, for Cellular Data, I had to choose one, but for Calls and SMS, there was a 3rd choice "Ask first". In my situation where one server is in one country and the other in another, asking first doesn't make sense, but some people have a need to split data and phone calls. ....   It turns out I might even be able to buy the plan I'm thinking of right at the airport.   (But I can leave the data on ATT (where it won't work), and that will I suspect turn it off for the other one until I can buy the data plan.)   The big problem is IMO a) that there are no printed directiosn for some phones (and the ones for my phone cover nothing but the obvious) and b) it's not clear in advance what one can tap on and what one can't. It's not like web browers that one can set to underline and display in another color clickable links.

Clifford Heath <no.spam@please.net>: Feb 22 07:14AM +1100 > got it on Saturday. I called redpocket and they said to call Tuesday. > Today they got it to work. THen I realised H2O stopped working. > But they BOTH worked on the DASH JR. CLues?   Most "Dual SIM" phones are like that. The 2nd SIM only works on 2G, only one SIM can connect to a modern network.

Steve & Lynn <cheryl@must.die>: Feb 22 06:21PM On 02/18/2017 08:38 PM, Samuel M. Goldwasser wrote:     > DSOs are great once you have some familiarity with what to expect, but > can be very deceiving if you don't.   SITRE MAGANA'S HAMSTER DIDN'T EXPECT TO BE CUT TO PIECES BY SITRE MAGANA WITH A PAIR OF SCISSORS.

Steve & Lynn <cheryl@must.die>: Feb 22 06:12PM On 02/18/2017 08:30 PM, Don Young wrote:

amdx <nojunk@knology.net>: Feb 21 08:29PM -0600 On 2/21/2017 7:46 PM, radiotek wrote: > WTB: Looking for a good used AM ferritec rod antenna with or without > windings that is 3/8" in diameter and is at least 4" long or longer. If > you have any in you junk box please contact me.   You can't come up with an old portable AM radio to scrap it from? Go to Goodwill or Salvation Army or a yard sale, it will be less than anyone could ship it to you. Or order it from WWW.Bytemark. Mike   --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus

oldschool@tubes.com: Feb 25 04:20PM -0600 >Kenny   >http://www.terapeak.com/worth/hammond-aurora-custom-model-227222-227214-schematic-diagram-nos/371534107566/   I was already to cough up the $10 for this paper manual, when I clicked on "BUY", it took me to an Ebay page that "does not exist". Probably another useless ancient link to something that google dont seem to ever remove. From what I've been seeing lately, google never removes outdated links. I've been seeing around 35% of the links on google are obsolete lately.

"Phoena Greene" <raeanne.is@ratchet.hoe>: Feb 21 03:14PM -0800 <mhploni@gmail.com> wrote in message news:13aee07a-de35-44cc-a09f-78fadc6a465c@googlegroups.com...   > I have a Homedics back massager that I purchased at Walmart for $100. I > refuse to just throw it away and purchase a new one (as our manufacturers > want us to do).   You're acting like $100 is like a month's rent or a car payment. What does $100 get you these days? Sitre Magana can spend that in a week just stuffing his fat fucking face.   > (the OEM wire seems too thin and it may already be damaged inside).   > Thing is, the transformer does not have screws to open it and I don't know > how to so I can put it back together.   I usually get them open with either a hammer or by throwing them on the concrete. Which ever way works for you.

Look165 <look165@numericable.fr>: Feb 21 08:15PM +0100 First test the output of the transformer with a meter !   I'm quite sure the transformer is not guilty.

Phoena Greene <rhiann.is@n.ugly.hoe>: Feb 21 08:18PM > Like a microwave oven, you don't need a ground fault at all to die off of one of those.   I suspect that Sitre Magana is going to die from a microwave oven, just from all the calories he gets out of them.

The Real Bev <bashley101@gmail.com>: Feb 18 01:09PM -0800 On 02/17/2017 04:01 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote: >>the paid version is rarely significantly better than the free version.   > Oh well. It's rather difficult to build a company based on a free > product (unless one sells advertising).   Fine with me. Just how much can a person make from app-advertising?   > with the idea for several decades. Enjoy free while it lasts. I'm > thinking more of a Kickstarter, Indiegogo, or other crowdfunding > project.   And yet people do it...   -- Cheers, Bev "My dad used to say: Laugh, and the whole world laughs with you. Cry, and I'll give you something to cry about you little bastard." -Jeff Goldblum

nospam <nospam@nospam.invalid>: Feb 18 04:12PM -0500 In article <o8ad3c$8ru$1@dont-email.me>, The Real Bev   > > Oh well. It's rather difficult to build a company based on a free > > product (unless one sells advertising).   > Fine with me. Just how much can a person make from app-advertising?   a lot.   <http://www.adweek.com/digital/googles-ad-revenue-hits-19-billion-even-m obile-continues-pose-challenges-172722/> During the second quarter of 2016, Alphabet's revenue hit $21.5 billion, a 21 percent year-over-year increase. Of that revenue, $19.1 billion came from Google's advertising business, up from $16 billion a year ago.

Stijn De Jong <stijndekonlng@nlnet.nl>: Feb 18 10:00PM The great news is that I've gotten my cellular signal up from around -100dBm to consistently better than -60dBm, which is an astoundingly astronomical improvement in signal strength!   For example, here is a reading, just now, of -53dBm on my cellphone: http://i.cubeupload.com/GEYEzS.jpg   From what I've read, cellular signal doesn't get much better than that.   However, there is so much data that each of these apps output that I'm still going through all the useful information to figure out exactly which device is doing what (since I have an old micro tower and a new femto tower in my house).

JF Mezei <jfmezei.spamnot@vaxination.ca>: Feb 18 02:08PM -0500 On 2017-02-17 23:36, tlvp wrote:   > A dual SIM phone, with both SIMs active, and using different carriers, not > only *can*, it *must* :-) . 'Zat help? Cheers, -- tlvp   In that scenario, you really have 2 phones and each attaches itself to only 1 antanna/radio.   Just because a phone can SEE signals from multiple antennas does not mean that it has concurrent active communication to multiple antennas.

Bob F <bobnospam@gmail.com>: Feb 21 06:30PM -0800 > or 1000W, but there are 9 of them).   > From what I am seeing, those transformers are all under rated. A friends > house has 200A service and his transformer is only 8KVA.   You could just contact the utility with the details of what you are drawing. They might choose to replace the transformer. I was told onece that if I increased usage significantly and did not tell them, I could be responsible for the transformer being damaged. If I told them, no problem.

Ralph Mowery <rmowery28146@earthlink.net>: Feb 22 05:50PM -0500 In article <o8l23h$2u0$1@dont-email.me>, gnuarm@gmail.com says... > The few times I did it I wasn't happy and I'm not comfortable with the > overall process. If I can't contact the seller, why should I buy > anything from them?     Most of the new things of any big price I order from any place is something I already know about. I have orderd from ebay from China many items less than $ 25 and have been satified.   I have ordered some items off ebay that I look on Youtube to see if anyone has done a review on them. Good thing about ebay is you can look at a venders feedback and if they have done lots of business and have a rating of around 99 or beter then I feel good about them.   The way I see it, Amazon has ratings on the products but not on the outside venders.I ordered a book from one of the Amazon venders and did not get in about 3 weeks I tried 2 times to send them an email and did not get a response. Went to Amazons problem page and got credited in less than a week by them.

oldschool@tubes.com: Feb 21 02:46PM -0600 On Tue, 21 Feb 2017 10:09:14 -0500, Ralph Mowery >for very small orders such as up to 8 oz shipped by the USPS.   >If you do go to ebay for the parts, watch out for the China places. >Some are good and some send junk parts.   I dont buy anything from China. (or any place outside of North America). It takes too long to get the items, if the stuff is defective, I'm stuck with it, and I do not trust giving out my credit card info. I only buy from the US and Canada. When I am on ebay, the first thing I do is set their filter to US Only. Otherwise my page is flooded with China items. Sure, I could often save a dollar or two buying from China, but it's not worth the hassle.   The one and only time I bought an ebay item from outside the US, I bought something from the UK. The order got all screwed up, and it turned into a huge hassle. I lost money, got an item I did not really want, and the seller lost too. I made a point to never buy from outside North America again.

krw@notreal.com: Feb 24 08:30PM -0500 >> on this side of the pond.   > From what my friend says, there is no small element of "the money comes >from the one most able to pay". We get that here sometimes.   It's called "joint and several liability".

Foxs Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Feb 18 01:10PM -0600 > Just curious, what would you use for that filter cap "lytic? > The schematic says 16mf or over (weird).   A 22 uF will work just fine.   -- Jeff-1.0 wa6fwi http://www.foxsmercantile.com

oldschool@tubes.com: Feb 18 12:58PM -0600 On Sat, 18 Feb 2017 09:18:23 -0800, John Robertson <spam@flippers.com> wrote:     >What hard core old radio restorers do is remove the guts of old caps, >insert a new one, then melt beeswax on the ends to seal them in. They >then look like originals...   That sounds like a lot of work, and I doubt I will do it. However, how would someone remove the guts from an old cap like that? The only thing I can think of would be to use a drill press, (at a very low speed). But maybe there is a better way.   >and figures the thing was never recapped and rips out all the carefully >restored caps...   >John :-#)#   Yea, that is probably a good idea....   --   One other thing, does anyone know if there is a place that sells the pointers for test gear? I bet there is a need. That old plastic seems to have failed, and mine is broke off. I'll buy a replacement if they are available and not too costly. Otherwise I guess I'll have to make one from plexiglass.... (And somehow paint a line on it).

Foxs Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Feb 18 01:14PM -0600 > However, how would someone remove the guts from an old cap > like that?   Hot air gun. Heat it up until the wax runs, hold the tube and pull the guts out by the lead.   > Otherwise I guess I'll have to make > one from plexiglass.... (And somehow paint a line on it).   Scribe a line on the back side. Use Testor's black model paint. wipe up excess.     -- Jeff-1.0 wa6fwi http://www.foxsmercantile.com

micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Feb 24 03:57AM -0500 In sci.electronics.repair, on Fri, 24 Feb 2017 02:29:06 -0500, micky >including a warning that if one has not bought a data plan (and I was >waiting until I got there) he should disable the cellular data or it >will, when prompted to, connect to the internet as pay as you go.   Sorry. Wrong ng.

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root <NoEMail@home.org>: Feb 22 07:48PM >>vendors (same as EBay) but none of them see your credit card, and >>until you approve of the product *as delivered*, they don't get your   > Is this Aliexpress a company in China, or do they just sell China goods?   AliExpress is Chinese. AliExpress is the consumer outlet for AliBaba, the huge Chinese company.

Clifford Heath <no.spam@please.net>: Feb 23 08:40AM +1100 On 23/02/17 00:33, Tom Gardner wrote: > Later MS refused to sell me Win7, so clearly they don't > want my custom.   MS doesn't have customers. They have hostages.

rickman <gnuarm@gmail.com>: Feb 21 04:19PM -0500 > their filter to US Only. Otherwise my page is flooded with China items. > Sure, I could often save a dollar or two buying from China, but it's not > worth the hassle.   The only times I've had trouble with eBay orders is when I didn't follow up on keeping track of them. I find ebay sellers to be very responsive because they live and die by their rating. If all else fails (which it has sometimes) I dispute the charge on my credit card and have never failed to get the refund.     > turned into a huge hassle. I lost money, got an item I did not really > want, and the seller lost too. I made a point to never buy from outside > North America again.   It's just not that big a deal normally. Having to wait over a month before filing for an "item not received" refund is a bit of a pain, but I only use this for things I don't need any time soon.   --   Rick C

Rheilly Phoull <rheilly@bigslong.com>: Feb 22 08:48AM +0800 > turned into a huge hassle. I lost money, got an item I did not really > want, and the seller lost too. I made a point to never buy from outside > North America again.   Well, you might have to "man up" and enter the modern times of online marketing :-). As stated ebay with paypal or similar gives pretty good protection against problem trades. Also as you are only buying small quantities you will not be risking much. For buying small quantities from several traders ebay makes it easy for you by putting all the purchases in your "basket" with one payment. It's not as hard as you may think and you really didn't give it much of a go with one buy. Most of the asian traders are honest and paypal keeps them that way.

Jasen Betts <jasen@xnet.co.nz>: Feb 23 05:19AM > that I almost feel overwhelmed. And I hear they have large minimums and > shipping, but I never got that far on their websites.... (I have to go > to a public WIFI to use those sites, since I only have dialup at home).   Depending on where you are sometimes they have free shipping. so far as i know they don't have minimum orders on most common parts, I think that I heard that digikey has free shipping if you are in USA and order by mail with cheque enclosed.   > I know ebay is an option too, but ordering each item separately can be a > pain too.   yeah... quality can be suspect too, but if y're prepare to be vigilant it can work.   > What (if any) online stores will fit my needs? > Maybe its none of these huge stores, but something smaller...   you could look at "sparkfun" and "adafriut" and "pimoroni", but I'm not guaranteeing that they will be a good fit for you.   -- This email has not been checked by half-arsed antivirus software

Allodoxaphobia <knock_yourself_out@example.net>: Feb 22 02:33AM > What is the best place for a hobbiest to buy small amounts of electronic > parts?   A really funky web site is http://www.danssmallpartsandkits.net/   I've ordered parts from "Dan" and never had "issues". Lots of old descrete parts. It can take a bit to dig through all he has listed. (He definitely does NOT pay anyone to maintain that web site. :-)   Jonesy -- Marvin L Jones | W3DHJ | W3DHJ | https://W3DHJ.net/ Pueblo, Colorado | @ | Jonesy | __ 38.238N 104.547W | jonz.net | DM78rf | 73 SK

Pat <pat@nospam.us>: Feb 24 04:35PM -0500 On Fri, 24 Feb 2017 10:45:18 -0800 (PST), "pfjw@aol.com"   >Funny thing, these types of lights are often give-away items at Solar Energy conferences - I have been to my fair share, and how they came into my hands. Otherwise I would not touch this cr*p on a bet.   >Peter Wieck >Melrose Park, PA   I just checked 3 of mine... Two give-aways and one UV of similar design. All three have the AAA batteries connected in series. That got me wondering how the LEDs are wired, but I was too lazy to take them apart. All have 9 LEDs so I will guess 3 sets of 3. Is 4.5v enough to power a 3 LED string? Just went to look it up and the answer to my own question is "no". UV and White LEDs typically have a Vf of 3.3 volts. So, all 9 are in parallel with their own current limiter? If so, why 9? Is there a cheap IC that supports 9 LEDs? If anyone knows, please educate us.   Pat

mike <ham789@netzero.net>: Feb 24 02:45PM -0800 > Funny thing, these types of lights are often give-away items at Solar Energy conferences - I have been to my fair share, and how they came into my hands. Otherwise I would not touch this cr*p on a bet.   > Peter Wieck > Melrose Park, PA   It's certainly possible, but it's a bad design tradeoff, and a safety hazard, to put 3XAAA in parallel. I've never seen one that way.   Even if they were in parallel, you'd need about 3X the led current from the batteries, so your math is still questionable. watts from battery x efficiency = watts to led.   The cheapest lights use 3XAAA in series connected directly to the parallel combination of LED's. They ship with "heavy duty" batteries and the series resistance of the batteries limits the current. Alkaline batteries will overheat the LED's. Now you know why the LED's start to flicker after a while.   If you try to run one off a 18650 you'll burn out the leds, even though the 4.2V of the cell is less than the nominal 4.5V of three AAA cells. I had to put 1.5 ohms in series to make it work.   If are really bored, you can cut two FREE Harbor Freight lights in two and solder the parts back together (well, they're aluminum so use something like Welco 52) to make one longer light that accepts a 18650. Don't forget the series resistor. This made a lot more sense back before you could buy a single AA zoom flashlight for $2.   If you take out 8 of the 9 LED's and make the resistor larger, it makes a great emergency light that will run forever during a power outage. Just my luck...we haven't had a power outage since I built it. ;-)

Steve & Lynn <cheryl@must.die>: Feb 22 05:55PM On 02/23/2017 01:47 AM, micky wrote: > only noticed because it felt warm in my pocket.   > It's got a proximity sensor but I don't remember what it's supposed to > do.   YEAH, WELL I HAD MY LED LIGHT BULB IN MY KITCHEN HOOD ON ALL DAY AND IT WAS TOO HOT TO TOUCH SO WHAT'S YOUR POINT?

Pat <pat@nospam.us>: Feb 24 01:16PM -0500 On Fri, 24 Feb 2017 09:36:12 -0800 (PST), "pfjw@aol.com"   >The reality is probably different as all the shots/assumptions are center-mass. If the LEDs are 100ma outliers, if the cells are 1.4mah outliers, things do change, of course.   >Peter Wieck >Melrose Park, PA 3 cells at 1000 mah each do NOT give you 3000 mah. They give you 1000 mah but at a higher voltage (4.5 vs 1.5). If you use mwh (watts) instead of mah (amps), then you can add them.   (If the cells are wired in parallel instead of series, then you are correct, but that isn't very common.)

Steve & Lynn <cheryl@must.die>: Feb 22 06:14PM > On Tuesday, February 21, 2017 at 12:39:17 PM UTC-5, mhp...@gmail.com wrote: > I will not buy Homedics products.   SO WHAT ARE YOU GOING TO DO NOW? PLAY WITH YOUR OWN SHIT LIKE SITRE MAGANA LIKES TO?

oldschool@tubes.com: Feb 25 04:15PM -0600 >This any help? https://archive.org/details/HSM4952016 >Maybe try this forum: http://www.organforum.com/forums/   >Kenny   Thanks, but neigther of these links seem to have any schematic for my model (Hammond model # 227214. Called an "Aurora Custom 1 (AV28)".

oldschool@tubes.com: Feb 25 04:23PM -0600 On Sat, 25 Feb 2017 18:29:37 -0000 (UTC), frank <frank@invalid.net> wrote:   >rigth one?   >Thanks >Frank     What is a LOPT? I'm guessing it's a Picture Tube (CRT), but after reading your post, I am not sure what you're talking about.... Please define.....

Michael Black <et472@ncf.ca>: Feb 27 01:34PM -0500

Ralph Mowery <rmowery28146@earthlink.net>: Feb 27 02:04PM -0500 In article <alpine.LNX.2.02.1702271332180.6852@darkstar.example.org>, et472@ncf.ca says...   > But I think you're thinking of the 807 (and there was also the 1629, I > think I got that number right) which was similar, and there was a long > supply of them in the surplus market well after WWII.   The 807 and 1625 were very similar. The 807 had a 6.3 volt filiment and the 1625 had a 12.6. They were cheap on the war suplus market after WW2. Still plenty of then around up to atleast 1975 or so. Many home built ham transmitters used them. They were also used in some high power audio equipment.   Many of the commercial built transmitters of ham and public service started using the 6146 series of tubes as they were not that expensive and would go to about 200 MHz with no big problem.   When color TV sets started using the 6LQ6, 6JE6 and a few other sweep tubes they were very inexpensive compaired to other power tubes and could put out a lot of power for the cost in SSB usage that was becomming popular on the ham bands.   During that time many ham transceivers put out about 100 watts and it took a pair of the 6146 or 6xx6 series of tubes. As the TV sets started going all solid state and the 6xx6 series quit being made in large quanties the price started going up. About that time transistors that could put out the same power were comming down and would work off 12 volts DC were comming down in price. That killed off the market for those tubes in new equipment.   Now transistors and othe solid state devices that can handle 500 and 1000 watts at RF are comming out, it is starting to kill off the market for tubes in that power range. Very few tubes are being made in the US now,and lots of replacements for the older tubes are comming from Russia, and China.

"Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terrell@earthlink.net>: Feb 27 05:11PM -0500 > They weight anywhere from 650 lbs to 1800 lbs. It struggles on those > 1800 lb ones, but a larger tractor could easily handle a ton or more. > (I dont buy or make bales larger than 1500 lbs).     We would have needed a crane to remove it from the pad. The people I moved it for were convinced that it had PCB based oil in it, even though it was built after that was NLA. They paid me to move the transmitter for another local station, for parts for the same model. They paid $150 for the old transmitter. That transformer was worth over $5,000, used.     > Mcintosh MC3500, Tube amps, and the MC2300 solid state amps, having a > total ofaround 28,000 watts. Not the intended use, but they held > up....   Not if they tried to run them at full output.     >> was a 'Distributed Amplifier'.   > Im not real familiar with transmitters, but I know that tube is used in > Ham transmitters and is similar to a 6L6 (or am I thinking 6LQ6?).       The 6L6 was a metal cased audio tube that was a slightly higher powered version of the 6V6.   http://www.r-type.org/pdfs/6l6.pdf -- Never piss off an Engineer!   They don't get mad.   They don't get even.   They go for over unity! ;-)

gregz <zekor@comcast.net>: Feb 21 09:10AM > <oldschool@tubes.com> wrote: >> http://www.ohgizmo.com/2006/03/06/the-biggest-subwoofer-ever-made   > https://playingintheworldgame.files.wordpress.com/2012/08/diatone-2.jpg   https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZmOwG0OnYbXJfRBmqyYGw4m5TVC_uKGODtmR1GdzZkEOyhuri-rFgcmyZu3yMIR7JthZT336dulnOoKdkcTAl7wuJ22Y08OmIAC0FEd1fWFHs7-CYKtRw-stUrSa1ZYbHkCBVd70bgLI/s1600/the+biggest+speaker.jpg   Greg

Jim Mueller <wrongname@nospam.com>: Feb 21 09:03PM On Mon, 20 Feb 2017 06:37:49 -0600, oldschool wrote:   > Back in the 70s, I used a red bulb with a special plastic tip that did > not melt. They were cheap and did a fair job.   The red bulb ones don't work very well; the bulb is too small. The ones with a larger blue bulb are much better. But the main problem with bulb type solder suckers is cleaning them. You can shake a fair amount of the old solder out of the bulb but quite a bit remains. You have to be imaginative and patient to get it out.   -- Jim Mueller wrongname@nospam.com   To get my real email address, replace wrongname with dadoheadman. Then replace nospam with fastmail. Lastly, replace com with us.

oldschool@tubes.com: Feb 20 01:20PM -0600 http://www.ohgizmo.com/2006/03/06/the-biggest-subwoofer-ever-made

Jim Mueller <wrongname@nospam.com>: Feb 20 09:18PM On Mon, 20 Feb 2017 13:20:55 -0600, oldschool wrote:   > http://www.ohgizmo.com/2006/03/06/the-biggest-subwoofer-ever-made   Didn't ElectroVoice sell a 30 inch speaker? It wasn't as big but you could actually buy one.   -- Jim Mueller wrongname@nospam.com   To get my real email address, replace wrongname with dadoheadman. Then replace nospam with fastmail. Lastly, replace com with us.

oldschool@tubes.com: Feb 25 02:16PM -0600 >done with audio, but I have seen it done with radio amplifiers, a bunch of >tubes in parallel so the output impedance is 50 ohms to match the coax.   > Michael     This is a good article about the "Wall of Sound". It was (and probably still is) the greatest sound system ever built, but it nearly bankrupt the Dead, and moving all that equipmnt from show to show does seem very impractical. Those mcintosh MC3500 amps are still the best anps ever built. More powerful solid state amps have been built, but none can match that tube sound.   https://motherboard.vice.com/en_us/article/the-wall-of-sound   I dont doubt that there were fried amps, blown speakers and so on at those concerts. Everything was being run at Max power and much of this was still in development stages.   Paralleled tubes like you said, dont seem real practical for audio amps. Having that high DC voltage on the speaker leads seems very dangerous.

Clifford Heath <no.spam@please.net>: Feb 26 06:20PM +1100 On 26/02/17 07:45, micky wrote: > I looked into this a little, and afaict the Catholics don't say Sunday > is the 7th day, which would make Saturday the 6th. . They say it's the > Lord's Day.   Some IT systems standards count Sunday as the first day, some Monday. Some number the first day as zero, some as one. Anything that cares to number the days of the week needs to allow this to be configured to local customs.   > I've been to France but don't remember seeing a calendar. But I've read > that it's been changed, something to do with the French Revolution or > maybe it was Napoleon.   I think calendar reform is a good idea, but won't ever happen.   In my ideal calendar, each year has ten months, one week, and a day (or two for a leap year). A month is seven weeks, and a week is five days - still with a 2-day weekend. That would reduce annual working days to 84% of the current 260 (ex holidays), down to 213 - not really a big drop. The end-of-year week-and-a-day would be an annual holiday which would include any leap day. So every month would be 35 days long.   Much more regular - better than the French system I think. And we'd have no more nonsense about the Sabbath :)   Clifford Heath.

micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Feb 25 03:45PM -0500 In sci.electronics.repair, on Sat, 25 Feb 2017 14:29:59 -0500, micky   >>I think it's only the sixth day of the week in France.   >Bad syntax on my part. I think only in France is it the sixth day of >the week.   Even for France, I'm only going by where it appears on printed calendars. If you look those Week-at-a-Glance desk calendars with place to write appointmentns, they separate the weekend into one box, so there are 3 boxes on each page, but I've always thought they do that because working people have most of their appointments and scheduled tasks on workdays.   I looked into this a little, and afaict the Catholics don't say Sunday is the 7th day, which would make Saturday the 6th. . They say it's the Lord's Day.   I've been to France but don't remember seeing a calendar. But I've read that it's been changed, something to do with the French Revolution or maybe it was Napoleon.   http://www.webexhibits.org/calendars/calendar-french.html The French Revolutionary Calendar (or Republican Calendar) was officially adopted in France on October 24, 1793 and abolished on 1 January 1806 by Emperor Napoleon I. It was used again briefly during under the Paris Commune in 1871. The French also established a new clock, in which the day was divided in ten hours of a hundred minutes of a hundred seconds - exactly 100,000 seconds per day. ..... The year was not divided into weeks, instead each month was divided into three décades of 10 days, of which the final day was a day of rest. This was an attempt to de-Christianize the calendar, but it was an unpopular move, because now there were 9 work days between each day of rest, whereas the Gregorian Calendar had only 6 work days between each Sunday***. The ten days of each décade were called, respectively, Primidi, Duodi, Tridi, Quartidi, Quintidi, Sextidi, Septidi, Octidi, Nonidi, Decadi.     https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/French_Republican_Calendar: The Concordat of 1801 re-established the Roman Catholic Church as an official institution in France (though not as a state religion) with effect from Easter Sunday, 18 April 1802, restoring the names of the days of the week to the ones they had in the Gregorian Calendar, while keeping the rest of the Republican Calendar, and fixing Sunday as the official day of rest and religious celebration.[4]     (This article is pretty long and I haven't read more than a little bit. It looks combative and therefore I'd take anything it says with a big grain of salt, and that there's another side to any ideological or even factual statement, but otoh, it's a comprehensive story so: https://www.worldslastchance.com/ecourses/lessons/changing-weeks-hiding-sabbath-ecourse/18/french-republican-calendar.html )   >>If you're using windows and you click on the time in the lower right >>corner, a calendar comes up and Saturday is 7th.   ***This reminds me of the way peasants are still ridiculed for complaining, rioting in some places IIrc, when the calendar was changed from Julian to Gregorian. The ridicule is based on the idea that they thought 10 days was being stolen from their lives, and that would be stupid, but their objection actually was that they were expected to pay a full month's rent to their landlords, even though that month was only 20 days long. (Also their health club membership was only 20 days that month.)

R2D4 <r2d4@stwars.com>: Feb 26 12:16AM -0500 On 02/22/2017 11:27 AM, R2D4 wrote: > isn't found for the above, I'd appreciate recommendations for a brand/ > model that will last. This definitely isn't like the blanket I had > while growing up 25 years ago; that one lasted for 15 years with no issues.     Just to update that I gave up on trying to find the right electric whatever that will work correctly and I am currently trying out down and down alternative comforters. This also seems to be an area needing study and it's not as simple as just picking out one without knowing what you need beforehand. However, I'm very close to a reasonably costing winner so my problems are almost solved.

Steve & Lynn <cheryl@must.die>: Feb 25 12:51AM > You do have a point.   > However, if you comb your hair *JUST* right, perhaps no one will notice.   WHAT?? I CAN'T HEAR YOU. CAN YOU SPEAK UP? IT'S HARD TO HEAR YOU OVER THE SOUND OF ALL THESE CRYING LIBERALS.

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