sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Google Groups

Dusty <Dusty@DustyDustyDusty.COM>: Sep 26 09:00PM -0700 Not sure what to do with this SanDisk 32G.   I used the "MiniTool Partition Wizard Free Edition"   It saw an empty drive in the tool. (nothing showed in windows explorer)   I did a full surface check and got NO errors.   I tried to recover and got an empty drive.   I reformatted as NTFS.   It now shows up in windows explorer as an empty 32G drive.   How did all the file table vanish ?   Is this pen drive now usable or should I just trash it ?     Bob_S wrote:

Lucifer Morningstar <not@for.mail>: Sep 27 04:40PM +1000 >It has fixed numerous problems on flash drives that don't show in Windows >Explorer or Disk Manager. And if it says it's dead, it probably is.   >Bob S.   Bob, try https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Usenet_quoting

Lucifer Morningstar <not@for.mail>: Sep 27 04:42PM +1000 On Tue, 26 Sep 2017 21:00:54 -0700, Dusty <Dusty@DustyDustyDusty.COM> wrote:     >It now shows up in windows explorer as an empty 32G drive.   >How did all the file table vanish ?   >Is this pen drive now usable or should I just trash it ?   I suggest you try https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Usenet_quoting

Wolf K <wolfmac@sympatico.ca>: Sep 27 09:39AM -0400 On 2017-09-27 00:00, Dusty wrote:   > I reformatted as NTFS.   > It now shows up in windows explorer as an empty 32G drive.   > How did all the file table vanish ?   It didn't. There's nothing in the file table, is all.   > Is this pen drive now usable or should I just trash it ?   Just copy a few files to it and see what happens....   -- Wolf K kirkwood40.blogspot.com "Wanted. Schrödinger's Cat. Dead and Alive."

"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Sep 27 04:23AM -0700 > That's really the explanation?   It is. This becomes particularly clear when a mother cat starts to train her kittens to hunt. First, freshly dead, then nearly dead, then undamaged prey.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

Cursitor Doom <curd@notformail.com>: Sep 27 10:28AM On Tue, 26 Sep 2017 17:00:05 -0700, John-Del wrote:   > the show he was watching was a western and either the wagon train or the > barn was set on fire by the Indians (er, Native Americans) and was in > full blaze.   He must have thought the special effects were totally awesome. ;)           -- This message may be freely reproduced without limit or charge only via the Usenet protocol. Reproduction in whole or part through other protocols, whether for profit or not, is conditional upon a charge of GBP10.00 per reproduction. Publication in this manner via non-Usenet protocols constitutes acceptance of this condition.

Mike Coon <gravity@mjcoon.plus.com>: Sep 27 11:50AM +0100 In article <oqfugj$b6t$5@dont-email.me>, curd@notformail.com says... > > barn was set on fire by the Indians (er, Native Americans) and was in > > full blaze.   > He must have thought the special effects were totally awesome. ;)   Smellivision? Might go down well with all the cooking programs in the UK...   Mike.

N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Sep 27 08:11AM +0100 > The easiest way is just overcharge them, but it must be done at slow charge, ie 16hr charge rate.   > The practical answer is new cells. They're very cheap.   > NT   Not a dendrite problem,not dropped to zero, just gone out of kilter. 16 hour charge time for 30 hours or so , for all 3 in series, makes sense, the next time. 3x 20mAh (not 200mAh) Ni-MH cells, very small , for a tiny pocket size version. Other than 9V pp3 and robbing 3 cells, I'm not aware they are sensibly (ie not 1000 minimum) available, even then pp3 ones are about 10 times too big. I was thinking of a 5V supercap might work as a replacement, if necessary

tabbypurr@gmail.com: Sep 26 06:51PM -0700 On Wednesday, 27 September 2017 01:49:50 UTC+1, T i m wrote:   > Cheers, T i m   > [1] I couldn't hurt one but I don't see the point in them ... apart > from a source of whiskers for crystal sets and guts for violins. ;-)   Just use a 10v zener. Job done. There's little point in the rest when the meter is so coarsely marked. You can adjust for 10v mechanically. You should find one in your scraps box.   Catgut is made from sheep, goats etc.     NT

mike <ham789@netzero.net>: Sep 26 09:19PM -0700 On 9/26/2017 5:40 PM, T i m wrote: > multiturn pot of the smallest value possible to give me sufficient > 'trimming' around the end points and quality resistors to do the main > bridge / work. Use a small value pot with a fixed resistor on each end. Easier to set, more stable.

tabbypurr@gmail.com: Sep 26 06:47PM -0700 On Wednesday, 27 September 2017 00:16:44 UTC+1, Dave Platt wrote:   > Tradition. It dates back at least as far as the day when we Americans > decided we couldn't afford to spell the new metal "aluminium" due to a > severe shortage of printers' slugs for the letter "i". :-)   Pedant mode on. Most plastics have a short common name for obvious reason. IIRC Mr. Webster's rewrite of American spelling occurred well before plastics in the 1800s.     NT

You received this digest because you're subscribed to updates for this group. You can change your settings on the group membership page. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it send an email to sci.electronics.repair+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com.

sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Google Groups

T i m <news@spaced.me.uk>: Sep 26 05:26PM +0100 On Tue, 26 Sep 2017 06:46:01 -0700 (PDT), tabbypurr@gmail.com wrote:   <snip>   >> supply is greater?   >> That seemed like the best of all worlds (for the KISS solution)?     >You want a zener with a nice straight line at the low current end. One linked to from here has that.   Yeah, ok ... but what about the question re using a lower value zener to get it away from the 'knee', especially as it's no more difficult to do?   Cheers, T i m

Foxs Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Sep 26 02:30PM -0500 On 9/26/2017 11:26 AM, T i m wrote:   > Yeah, ok ... but what about the question re using a lower value zener > to get it away from the 'knee', especially as it's no more difficult > to do?   Here it is again. The simplest is a 20K resistor in series with a 10v zener diode. Use a low current Zener so the knee works right at low values. Something like this: <http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/395/BZX55C2V0%20SERIES_D1610-1099630.pdf> Note, this is a DO-35 package.   -- Jeff-1.0 wa6fwi http://www.foxsmercantile.com

mike <ham789@netzero.net>: Sep 26 02:13PM -0700 On 9/26/2017 9:26 AM, T i m wrote: > to get it away from the 'knee', especially as it's no more difficult > to do?   > Cheers, T i m   Since we're just trying to be clever, Try this:   https://i.imgur.com/irLisN7.jpg   The transistor and zener make a temperature compensated ~7V reference (must use 6.2V zener with standard tempco). Two pots set the min and max voltages. Rk allows you to add current to the zener to get it past the most nonlinear portion of it's V-I curve. This circuit has the ability to calibrate out almost any component variation. It's relatively temperature independent. You can use any meter that will make full scale at less than about 7V. Downside is that the pots are vibration sensitive and subject to moisture/corrosion.   Are we having fun yet?

tabbypurr@gmail.com: Sep 26 03:29PM -0700 On Tuesday, 26 September 2017 17:26:46 UTC+1, T i m wrote: > to get it away from the 'knee', especially as it's no more difficult > to do?   > Cheers, T i m   The zeners with the straightest knee are at 9-10v. Go look at the linked data sheets.     NT

T i m <news@spaced.me.uk>: Sep 27 01:40AM +0100 On Tue, 26 Sep 2017 14:13:20 -0700, mike <ham789@netzero.net> wrote:   <snip>   >> to get it away from the 'knee', especially as it's no more difficult >> to do?   >Since we're just trying to be clever,   I'm not mike, I'm just trying to refine the design of any solution to be as good as possible with the fewest possible components. ;-)   >https://i.imgur.com/irLisN7.jpg   >The transistor and zener make a temperature compensated ~7V >reference (must use 6.2V zener with standard tempco).   Ok.   >Two pots set the min and max voltages.   Noted.   >Rk allows you to add >current to the zener to get it past the most nonlinear portion >of it's V-I curve.   Understood.   >This circuit has the ability to calibrate out >almost any component variation.   That sounds like the sort of thing I was hoping to hear. ;-)   >It's relatively temperature >independent.   As long as it will cope with the -10 to +10 DegC range it should be fine here in the UK. ;-)   >You can use any meter that will make full scale at >less than about 7V.   And that's most small panel meters I'm sure.   >Downside is that the pots are vibration sensitive >and subject to moisture/corrosion.   Sure, but in my case they won't be subject to any real vibration and will be in a sealed enclosure. Also I would typically use a quality multiturn pot of the smallest value possible to give me sufficient 'trimming' around the end points and quality resistors to do the main bridge / work.   >Are we having fun yet?   Well, it's certainly bringing some interesting and varied solutions out of the woodwork. ;-)   It might also help me use up my stock of BC107's. ;-)   Cheers, T i m

T i m <news@spaced.me.uk>: Sep 27 01:49AM +0100 On Tue, 26 Sep 2017 15:29:19 -0700 (PDT), tabbypurr@gmail.com wrote:   <snip>   >> to get it away from the 'knee', especially as it's no more difficult >> to do?   >The zeners with the straightest knee are at 9-10v.   Ok, so again that helps because I'd go for a 9V zener to get AFA I can from that 10V threshold and still retaining the sharpest knee. ;-)   >Go look at the linked data sheets.   Too much information (variables) for me in most cases mate. ;-)   Ah, you can use the 9V zener but it only comes in SM and you have to buy 1000. The 10V are easier to get but need a higher current ... etc etc. I don't play chess or poker or any game of chance for that matter (preferring FPS when I can shoot my fellow players in the face). ;-)   The whole point to me of asking those who know is they are the ones who should all agree on a single 'best' solution. ;-)   More than one way to skin a cat? (But for that as long as it does get skinned is good enough for me [1]).     Cheers, T i m   [1] I couldn't hurt one but I don't see the point in them ... apart from a source of whiskers for crystal sets and guts for violins. ;-)

Foxs Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Sep 26 08:00PM -0500 On 9/26/2017 7:49 PM, T i m wrote: > Too much information (variables) for me in most cases mate.;-)   You keep missing it.   Here it is again. The simplest is a 20K resistor in series with a 10v zener diode. Use a low current Zener so the knee works right at low values. Something like this: <http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/395/BZX55C2V0%20SERIES_D1610-1099630.pdf> Note, this is a DO-35 package.     -- Jeff-1.0 wa6fwi http://www.foxsmercantile.com

John-Del <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Sep 26 05:00PM -0700 > that sort of melted from the flames.   > Shipping is extra.   > Post a reply if you want to buy it!       LOL!   Not to get too far from your post but your story reminded me of a true story my dad told me. Back in the late 1950s or early 60s, he was making a house call on a B&W console. He arrived at the house and found it on the front porch. Turns out the grandfather was watching TV while the TV was literally on fire. His daughter and son-in-law ran into the room when they smelled the smoke and there was grandpa watching that TV en fuego. He wasn't aware of the flames licking the curtains because the show he was watching was a western and either the wagon train or the barn was set on fire by the Indians (er, Native Americans) and was in full blaze.

dplatt@coop.radagast.org (Dave Platt): Sep 26 12:42PM -0700 In article <hiljsctonehbkmnnivrp1mu59osrc2j29t@4ax.com>,   >My question is whether I can use a common spray paint on bakelite, such >as Rustoleum? I may not get the exact color as original, but I dont see >any way to get the original paint.   http://www.radiomuseum.org/forum/vintage_radio_restoration_bakelite_radio_cabinets.html has a good discussion of this.   He doesn't mention any specific sort of paint being required, but does recommend spraying on a coat of primer after a thorough cleaning... probably a good idea to help ensure good adhesion.   I recall that Rustoleum makes some paint varieties which are specified as being suitable for use on plastics. This sort of multi-surface paint might give you some additional defense against peeling, if you decide to omit the primer step.

rickman <gnuarm@gmail.com>: Sep 26 05:14PM -0400 Dave Platt wrote on 9/26/2017 3:42 PM: > as being suitable for use on plastics. This sort of multi-surface > paint might give you some additional defense against peeling, if you > decide to omit the primer step.   It all depends on the details. I used a paint for plastic to use on a plastic container and it did not work well at all. I cleaned the surface well, but did not rough it up and did not use a primer. It was not too long before the paint started to peel. I don't know the type of plastic. It was a food storage container with a seal ring commonly available in stores. Just a data point for what it is worth.   --   Rick C   Viewed the eclipse at Wintercrest Farms, on the centerline of totality since 1998

tabbypurr@gmail.com: Sep 26 03:31PM -0700 On Tuesday, 26 September 2017 22:14:42 UTC+1, rickman wrote:   > before the paint started to peel. I don't know the type of plastic. It was > a food storage container with a seal ring commonly available in stores. > Just a data point for what it is worth.   Nothing sticks to polythene.     NT

tabbypurr@gmail.com: Sep 26 03:33PM -0700 On Tuesday, 26 September 2017 20:42:20 UTC+1, Dave Platt wrote: > as being suitable for use on plastics. This sort of multi-surface > paint might give you some additional defense against peeling, if you > decide to omit the primer step.   I've seen seasoned restorers use car spray paint, vauxhall brazil brown for bakelite.   When getting a colour match I always give the sample a good clean first, otherwise the wrong colour is inevitable.     NT

rickman <gnuarm@gmail.com>: Sep 26 06:43PM -0400 >> a food storage container with a seal ring commonly available in stores. >> Just a data point for what it is worth.   > Nothing sticks to polythene.   Are you in the UK? Is that what we call polyethylene? How does it happen that we end up with different names for things like common plastic?   --   Rick C   Viewed the eclipse at Wintercrest Farms, on the centerline of totality since 1998

tabbypurr@gmail.com: Sep 26 03:53PM -0700 On Tuesday, 26 September 2017 23:43:46 UTC+1, rickman wrote:   > > Nothing sticks to polythene.   > Are you in the UK? Is that what we call polyethylene? How does it happen > that we end up with different names for things like common plastic?   Yes, yes, it's easier to say. Polythene is the next best thing to ptfe when you want to keep friction low. Handy for moving heavy loads. Food storage containers are most commonly polythene.     NT

dplatt@coop.radagast.org (Dave Platt): Sep 26 04:16PM -0700 >> Nothing sticks to polythene.   >Are you in the UK? Is that what we call polyethylene? How does it happen >that we end up with different names for things like common plastic?   Tradition. It dates back at least as far as the day when we Americans decided we couldn't afford to spell the new metal "aluminium" due to a severe shortage of printers' slugs for the letter "i". :-)

"David Farber" <farberbear.unspam@aol.com>: Sep 26 02:10PM -0700 David Farber wrote:   > Yes, that matches what the old part is. I'm in no hurry so I'll wait > to see what diodes.com has to say.   > Thanks for your reply.   I finally had time to install the new transistors and they worked perfrectly. The cats are happy again!   Thanks for all your helpful replies. -- David Farber Los Osos, CA

bruce2bowser@gmail.com: Sep 26 02:28PM -0700 > > will only be let back in if they are not bringing anything with them.   > Bad move!   > Your cats think that you are a particularly incompetent hunter, eat all kinds of weird, smelly, dead food and generally are not very good cats. So, they are trying to feed you, and train you as they would their kittens.   That's really the explanation?

tabbypurr@gmail.com: Sep 26 03:42PM -0700 > > Bad move!   > > Your cats think that you are a particularly incompetent hunter, eat all kinds of weird, smelly, dead food and generally are not very good cats. So, they are trying to feed you, and train you as they would their kittens.   > That's really the explanation?   You could ask one, but IME they're inclined to be secretive.     NT

dplatt@coop.radagast.org (Dave Platt): Sep 26 03:26PM -0700 In article <oqefp1$98r$1@dont-email.me>,   >I finally had time to install the new transistors and they worked >perfrectly. The cats are happy again!   Excellent - very glad to hear it!

Steve Goldstein <sgoldHAM@alum.mit.edu>: Sep 26 07:02PM -0400 Does anybody have schematics or repair info for this scale or one of the other V-series models? My V-350 worked fine when carefully put on a shelf a few months ago, but when I tried to use it today it wouldn't boot up. It showed all the display segments briefly, but then hung with only the tiny arrow in the upper left of the display showing, and was unresonsive to the CAL and TARE buttons (though I could turn it off and on with the switches).   Thanks.

N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Sep 26 07:22PM +0100 Silly wind-up torch but could be anything using Ni-Cad or ni-Mh multi-cells. LEDs are full bright for a short time after winding up , then drops to low light level, regardless of amount of winding beforehand. One cell is out of kilter with the rest, and in use discharges quickly compared to the others. Bench ps charging that one , in isolation, cures the problem. But presumably it may return , unbalanced charge/discharge across the cells. How to do the isolated charging of one cell properly, the next time in the way of monitoring voltages and charge currents ?

"Ian Field" <gangprobing.alien1@virginmedia.com>: Sep 26 10:27PM +0100 "N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote in message news:oqe5sp$qmg$1@dont-email.me... > But presumably it may return , unbalanced charge/discharge across the > cells. How to do the isolated charging of one cell properly, the next time > in the way of monitoring voltages and charge currents ?   The one i bought was total crap - you can get them with a charging jack, they might be less of a disaster.

tabbypurr@gmail.com: Sep 26 03:45PM -0700 On Tuesday, 26 September 2017 19:22:21 UTC+1, N_Cook wrote:   > Bench ps charging that one , in isolation, cures the problem. > But presumably it may return , unbalanced charge/discharge across the > cells.   likely discharge in the cell from a dendrite. If so the cell's at end of life.   > How to do the isolated charging of one cell properly, the next > time in the way of monitoring voltages and charge currents ?   The easiest way is just overcharge them, but it must be done at slow charge, ie 16hr charge rate.   The practical answer is new cells. They're very cheap.     NT

Dusty <Dusty@DustyDustyDusty.com>: Sep 26 11:57AM -0700 Nothing on reliability ! As usual reviewers do not know how to review. What is most important to you ?   Their second top rated is the one that died.   Other parameter metrics are of little interest.   Buying a Sony 32G as the one I already have has been the best.   Why ? The Sony has worked at every USB port I have tried it on. The Sandisk only works on some USB ports. Why ? because the Sony connector is a better quality connector and can make up for the deficiencies of the USB PC connector. I have several SanDisk pen drives and with some I have to wiggle the pen drive for it to make a connection. Not so with the Sony. The SanDisk skimps on it connector length and area trying to save a penny and putting their fingers in my purse. Poor quality connector !   The Sony has more reliability and quality. So I pay a few bucks more but it is well worth it.     Bob_S wrote:

harry newton <harry@is.invalid>: Sep 26 06:03PM He who is Piet said on Tue, 26 Sep 2017 10:16:57 +0200:   >> or build the bezel such that there is uneven support, and it >> can easily break.   > And *that* is the whole issue.   JF Mezei & Piet bring up good on-topic points where the question is whether Apple outright lied or not, and if they did outright lie, why they did so.   If it's true that the *material* is the "strongest ever" put on a smarphone, then we'd have to look at two things that Apple said & meant: a. What Apple literally said, and, b. What Apple meant their mostly factually-clueless customers to perceive   It's hard to believe that one of the finest, if not the finest, marketing organizations in the world would need to stoop to an outright lie to get its customers to appreciate the product, so, the statement that they didn't lie outright about the "material" holds credibility.   Is the "lie" explained as simply as: a. The "material" is the strongest ever put in a smartphone, but, b. The "implementation" is as weak as any (and even weaker than some).   Is that a rational explanation of Apple's statements as compared with fact?

You received this digest because you're subscribed to updates for this group. You can change your settings on the group membership page. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it send an email to sci.electronics.repair+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com.

sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Google Groups

"Dave M" <dgminala@mediacombb.net>: Sep 25 03:35PM -0500 T i m wrote:   > I can't help feeling I've missed something with that solution though, > like the linearity ... ? ;-(   > Cheers, T i m   I gave the wrong zener current for the 1N4104 . I just looked at Mouser's basic info for the diode, but neglected to follow up and look at the actual datasheet. According to the datasheet, the zener test current is actually 250uA, whereas Mouser states it as 1uA. Quite a difference, but after looking at the datasheets for some other 10V/200mW zeners, (datasheets that had actual graphs for Iz vs. Vz) I see that they actually start conducting well below 1uA, so I feel confident that the 1N4104 will do the job for you. All the other zeners that I found are SMD devices, so I doubt that you'll be interested in any of those. With that Zener in the circuit, I doubt that you'll have any noticible nonlinearity; certainly not with the meter scale only having a 1-volt resolution. Forget about the accuracy on the low end as well (except at the volt marks), because you can't resolve to a basic meter accuracy specification of +-3% of FSD. Dave M

T i m <news@spaced.me.uk>: Sep 25 09:45PM +0100 On Mon, 25 Sep 2017 07:53:49 -0700 (PDT), "pfjw@aol.com"   >On Monday, September 25, 2017 at 10:13:48 AM UTC-4, tabb...@gmail.com wrote:   >> If it's only marked in whole volts, reading it with accuracy won't happen, so it won't be especially accurate.   >How so? I suggest that you are mistaking "accuracy" for "precision". They are not even a little bit the same thing nor follow necessarily one from another.   +1   >A gauge or meter that reads (is marked) in whole numbers but is dead-on is far more accurate than a gauge or meter marked in thousandths, but is always two units off.   Yup, that's the thing ... and why many battery meters are calibrated with red, amber and green sections. Now whilst that would work for me re charge (voltage) and loosely therefore charge status, it wouldn't be useful to pin down the discharge / charge status (unlike say a CCA tester) as the terminal volts are a function of load.   > Although the latter meter is extremely precise.   Yup and I have some of those. Highly repeatable but always 'out' by some amount. ;-(   >I have a metered Iso-Variac that reads in volts measured in tens, and amps measured in tenths on a 0 -1 or 0 - 4 scale. But they are 4" meters so that even very slight needle movements are visible. The human brain is pretty good at interpolation.   And it was the latter thought that I was using when it came to this meter. ;-)   Take something that offers a very 'human' way of displaying something (like an analogue car fuel or specifically, temperature gauge that starts at say 60 DegC) and retain the merits but improve the general meaning / readability.   Mileage / trip counters are more suited to being 'digital' etc. ;-)   Cheers, T i m

tabbypurr@gmail.com: Sep 25 03:37PM -0700 > I have a metered Iso-Variac that reads in volts measured in tens, and amps measured in tenths on a 0 -1 or 0 - 4 scale. But they are 4" meters so that even very slight needle movements are visible. The human brain is pretty good at interpolation.   > Peter Wieck > Melrose Park, PA   With very coarse markings you won't get accurate readings. End of relevant material. I have no motivation to argue over the simple and immaterial.     NT

Foxs Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Sep 25 08:08PM -0500 On 9/25/2017 3:35 PM, Dave M wrote: > confident that the 1N4104 will do the job for you. > All the other zeners that I found are SMD devices, so I doubt that > you'll be interested in any of those.   Previously I wrote:   The simplest is a 20K resistor in series with a 10v zener diode. Use a low current Zener so the knee works right at low values. Something like this: <http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/395/BZX55C2V0%20SERIES_D1610-1099630.pdf> Note, this is a DO-35 package.     -- Jeff-1.0 wa6fwi http://www.foxsmercantile.com

whit3rd <whit3rd@gmail.com>: Sep 25 07:21PM -0700 On Sunday, September 24, 2017 at 8:43:06 PM UTC-7, T i m wrote:   > >I'm far too lazy to do the math on how nonlinear it will be.   > I do like the idea of printing my own scale and if this basic one > works, I might go for a bigger / better meter that I can open etc.   Yep, that's a good idea.   And, there's NO NONLINEARITY unless you apply bias less than the zener voltage breakdown, because of Norton's theorem: any bunch of resistors and voltage sources (the zener is a voltage source) is identically a current source with a shunt resistance. Offset by a constant, you can get; nonlinearity, you can't. The meter magnetic field is the only source of nonlinearity (and meter manufacturers do pretty well on keeping that uniform).

tabbypurr@gmail.com: Sep 25 07:46PM -0700 On Tuesday, 26 September 2017 03:21:57 UTC+1, whit3rd wrote: > a constant, you can get; nonlinearity, you can't. The meter magnetic field > is the only source of nonlinearity (and meter manufacturers do pretty well > on keeping that uniform).   zener v/i curves vary, some are terrible near zero i, some straighter.     NT

T i m <news@spaced.me.uk>: Sep 26 09:47AM +0100 On Mon, 25 Sep 2017 20:08:01 -0500, Foxs Mercantile <jdangus@att.net> wrote:   >Something like this: ><http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/395/BZX55C2V0%20SERIES_D1610-1099630.pdf> >Note, this is a DO-35 package.     So, if the / any issue to the zener solution is the closeness of any knee to the bottom end of the required voltage range, would the using the / a lower reference and a potential devider to set the fsd on 15 volts be a better idea still (or have I missed something again)? ;-(   Cheers, T i m

T i m <news@spaced.me.uk>: Sep 26 10:07AM +0100 On Mon, 25 Sep 2017 15:35:28 -0500, "Dave M" <dgminala@mediacombb.net> wrote:   >looking at the datasheets for some other 10V/200mW zeners, (datasheets that >had actual graphs for Iz vs. Vz) I see that they actually start conducting >well below 1uA, so I feel confident that the 1N4104 will do the job for you.   Thanks for the follow up Dave.   >All the other zeners that I found are SMD devices, so I doubt that you'll be >interested in any of those.   Well, I have worked with SMD's but a wired device and could use on at a pinch (soldered to the side of the meter contact etc) bit a wired device is probably easier.   >resolution. Forget about the accuracy on the low end as well (except at the >volt marks), because you can't resolve to a basic meter accuracy >specification of +-3% of FSD.   Understood. I was thinking more on the idea of when using a lower voltage zener to be well clear of the lower voltage levels being considered and then the potential divider to set the FSD when the input is 15V?   And also, wouldn't the impact of the battery voltage changing from say 10.5 to 14.4V be lessened (re the series current limiting / biasing resistor) if the voltage difference between the reference and the supply is greater?   That seemed like the best of all worlds (for the KISS solution)?   Cheers, T i m

T i m <news@spaced.me.uk>: Sep 26 10:11AM +0100 >> Peter Wieck >> Melrose Park, PA   >With very coarse markings you won't get accurate readings. End of relevant material. I have no motivation to argue over the simple and immaterial.   Doesn't that depend what you are looking for? Say I determine my LVD should be at 11.000 volts then I would appreciate the meter being as accurate as possible (at that point at least)?   Cheers, T i m

tabbypurr@gmail.com: Sep 26 06:46AM -0700 On Tuesday, 26 September 2017 10:07:36 UTC+1, T i m wrote: > supply is greater?   > That seemed like the best of all worlds (for the KISS solution)?   > Cheers, T i m   You want a zener with a nice straight line at the low current end. One linked to from here has that.     NT

sam.markoni3@ya_oo.com: Sep 25 09:53PM -0400 I bought an antique radio for $475 at an antique store. It was sold as-is, no returns. When I got it home, I plugged it in, and saw sparks. Then the whole thing burst into flames. By the time the Fire Department came, I made out the fire by tossing a 5 gallon pail of water on it. The Fire Dept then tossed it outside and broke the cabinet.   After it dried, I duct taped the cabinet back together, but I am not certified to repair it. I will sell it for repair to anyone who is certified to repair it, for only $65. You cant get a better deal than that. It looks like all the tubes and transistors are still there, so I am sure it can be fixed. It will probably need a new cord though, that sort of melted from the flames.   Shipping is extra.   Post a reply if you want to buy it!

tabbypurr@gmail.com: Sep 25 07:59PM -0700 > that sort of melted from the flames.   > Shipping is extra.   > Post a reply if you want to buy it!   lol

"tom" <tmiller11147@verizon.net>: Sep 26 12:19AM -0400 <sam.markoni3@ya_oo.com> wrote in message news:psbjsc5ip8kastet7e12pe0s3ildgfoo1e@4ax.com... > that sort of melted from the flames.   > Shipping is extra.   > Post a reply if you want to buy it!   I guess you want payment by western union?

Andy Burns <usenet@andyburns.uk>: Sep 26 07:48AM +0100 > I bought an antique radio for $475 at an antique store. Then ruined it   > I will sell it for repair [...] for only $65. So you mean $0 radio for $65 ?

Rheilly Phoull <rheilly@bigslong.com>: Sep 26 05:47PM +0800 On 26/09/2017 2:48 PM, Andy Burns wrote: > Then ruined it   >> I will sell it for repair [...] for only $65. > So you mean $0 radio for $65 ?   KER_WOOOSH!!

oldschool@tubes.com: Sep 26 12:46AM -0400 I picked up a RCA Victor 66X2 Radio from 1946-47. It's a very unusual radio. It is AM broadcast band and one Shortwave band. Amazingly this radio worked right away, except for the broken dial string and a power cord that needs to be replaced soon. All the tubes appear to be original, and all capacitors appear to be original too. Even the filter cap appears original, and there is no hum.   Other than replace the cord and dial string, I dont plan to do anything with the components for now, except add a fuse.   The bakelite case is solid, but badly scratched. The bakelite under the Ivory paint is black. This radio sold in black (unpainted - model 66X1), Painted Ivory - Model 66X2, and two additional woodgrain models.   My plan is to remove the case from the chassis, remove or tape up the grill cloth and trim. Then spray paint it with an Ivory colored spray paint. (after sanding it with some very fine sandpaper to clean up all scratches).   My question is whether I can use a common spray paint on bakelite, such as Rustoleum? I may not get the exact color as original, but I dont see any way to get the original paint.   Have any of you painted bakelite? Will common spray paint work on it?   One other thing, the dial bulbs are burned out. Bayonette base, wired in series, two 3.2 volt bulbs. A schematic shows them as Mazda 1490. ( I never heard of Mazda bulbs). Anyhow, where can I get such bulbs? The bayonette base is the same as a #47 bulb.   BTW: The 6 volt feeding them comes from the filament center tap in the 35Z5 rectifier tube. How they get 6volts from that center tap evades me, but that's how it is.....       Thanks

Foxs Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Sep 26 01:48AM -0500 > series, two 3.2 volt bulbs. A schematic shows them as Mazda 1490. ( I > never heard of Mazda bulbs). Anyhow, where can I get such bulbs? > The bayonette base is the same as a #47 bulb.   Multiple sources online show them as in stock.   > BTW: The 6 volt feeding them comes from the filament center tap in the > 35Z5 rectifier tube. How they get 6volts from that center tap evades me, > but that's how it is.....   A lot of things evade you. <http://www.nostalgiaair.org/pagesbymodel/076/M0015076.pdf>   From the 35Z5GT data sheet: "Glass octal type used in power supply of ac/dc receivers. The heater is provided with a tap for operation of a panel lamp. May be supplied with pin 1 omitted. Requires octal socket."   Hint: It's not "center" tapped.       -- Jeff-1.0 wa6fwi http://www.foxsmercantile.com

Mike Coon <gravity@mjcoon.plus.com>: Sep 25 06:07PM +0100 In article <oqbamr$dlt$1@adenine.netfront.net>, Dusty@DustyDustyDusty.COM says...   > The light on the pen drive blinks one long blink then a short one or two > blinks.   > Any chance of recovery ?   Dunno about blinking or particular OSs. But suggest finding Disk or Device Management instead of looking in Explorer and perhaps doing a Format (if that option is offered). In XP, try Control Panel/Admin Tools/Computer Mgt/Disk Mgt.   HTH, Mike.

Look165 <look165@numericable.fr>: Sep 25 07:19PM +0200 Dusty a écrit :

"Jonathan N. Little" <lws4art@gmail.com>: Sep 25 04:44PM -0400 Dusty wrote: > so getting this one going would be better.   > What brand is the most reliable pen drive ? > Need 32 G.     Usually no. When flash drives usually fail suddenly, without warning, and catastrophically.   One thought, are you sure that you do not have a counterfeit drive. A lot are out there especially large capacity ones.   <https://www.raymond.cc/blog/test-and-detect-fake-or-counterfeit-usb-flash-drives-bought-from-ebay-with-h2testw/>   Also look at this one, there a tons of examples online. <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HaHokQ5EWv0> Some other vids will run the previous link utils to expose the deception without disassembling it.   -- Take care,   Jonathan ------------------- LITTLE WORKS STUDIO http://www.LittleWorksStudio.com

John-Del <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Sep 25 02:37PM -0700 On Monday, September 25, 2017 at 12:26:08 PM UTC-4, Dusty wrote: > so getting this one going would be better.   > What brand is the most reliable pen drive ? > Need 32 G.       I have fixed several for good customers by simply repairing or reflowing the solder on the USB to PC connection. You've got nothing to lose; crack it open and look the board over under a good strong loupe.

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Sep 25 07:14PM -0700 On Mon, 25 Sep 2017 09:25:57 -0700, Dusty <Dusty@DustyDustyDusty.COM> wrote:   >Any PC I plug it into pops up a message saying the driver is now >installed BUT it does not show anything in Windows Explorer.   You may have the same drive letter assigned to two different storage devices. Go to: Control Panel -> Admin Tools -> Computer Management -> Disk Management You should see you Sandisk drive but either no drive letter or duplicating the drive letter of another drive. Right Click and select "change drive letter and paths".   You may also have a broken USB connector. Many if not all USB flash drive PCB's are not very well mechanically secured to the connector shell. Bend the flash drive and you have a broken solder connection. Usually, all that's needed is to resolder the connection and deal with any broken traces. I sometimes slop on some epoxy if I want the fix to last.   >What brand is the most reliable pen drive ? >Need 32 G.   SanDisk seems to be the best for me. <https://www.newegg.com/SanDisk-USB-Flash-Drives/BrandSubCat/ID-1404-522> They make a few losers, but in general, they're the best I can buy. I've had the SanDisk Cruzer Fit drive get a bit too hot for comfort.   I also have a small pile of about eight Lexar 32GB USB 3.0 (all plastic) flash drives that crapped out one at a time. Junk.   If you're seriously worried about reliability, I suggest you check the various review and rating sites. <https://www.google.com/search?q=usb+flash+drive+reviews+2017> This one looks useful: <http://usb.userbenchmark.com>     -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

"Bob_S" <noone@here.com>: Sep 25 10:28PM -0400 "Dusty" wrote in message news:oqbamr$dlt$1@adenine.netfront.net...   Any PC I plug it into pops up a message saying the driver is now installed BUT it does not show anything in Windows Explorer. This happens on a Win XP Pro laptop, a Lenovo laptop and a Win 7 Pro desktop.   The light on the pen drive blinks one long blink then a short one or two blinks.   Any chance of recovery ?   Any app to explore it ?   It is all backed up but it will take over night to fill a new pen drive so getting this one going would be better.   What brand is the most reliable pen drive ? Need 32 G.   Dusty,   Give this free tool a try - "MiniTool Partition Wizard Free Edition"   http://www.minitool.com/partition-manager/partition-wizard-home.html   It has fixed numerous problems on flash drives that don't show in Windows Explorer or Disk Manager. And if it says it's dead, it probably is.   Bob S.

Roy Tremblay <rmblayrrroy@nlnet.nl>: Sep 26 01:42AM To Rod Speed and anyone who wants to set up a ubiquiti radio as a receiver far from the house.   Mechanically the setup is this: a. House is normal with SOHO WiFi router b. Barn is about 200 feet away and has electricity c. House to barn has driveway plus creek so no Ethernet cable   We had a half dozen spare Ubiquiti Rocket M2 radios on hand, because we swapped them all out for Rocket M5 radios instead (for the lower noise). <https://s26.postimg.org/86f1es2yh/radio.jpg>   So a bunch of us grabbed a few and set them up outside, a few hundred feet from the house, pointing over the air back at the normal home SOHO routers.   The radio is powered by the POE that comes with it, with one end connected to the 120VAC mains and the other end powers the radio. The POE has another Ethernet RJ45 port which right now just goes into a laptop but which could easily feed into a router and/or a camera or whatever.   The problem is that the home SOHO router won't cast a good signal to the barn at about 200 feet but with this radio (whose dish alone is 30 decibels!) we can pick up the home SOHO router at 200 feet without trouble.   At about 200 feet line of sight from the barn to the house, we got signal strength of over minus 65 decibels, which is pretty good, and when we tested speeds, they were asymmetric (even though all our feeds are symmetric) at 43 Mbps down and 17 Mbps up, which is fine for what we're doing (since we get our Internet over the air via WISP).   The key to set up the Ubiquiti radio as a receiver is "station" and "bridge" for the two tabs, "wireless" and "network".   The configuration file has the radio set up with the following cfg file which can be loaded into any Ubiquiti Rocket M2 (and probably other Ubiquiti AirOS radios).   I realize this is the opposite of what Rod Speed is trying to do, but I point it out in case he wants to just set up a radio & router at his neighbor's house 150 feet away.   I'm going to set up a 1 Watt spare bullet M2 with a 16dB planar antenna so I hope my next post can be a configuration cfg file of the bullet set up to paint his naighbor's house.   But until then, this is how to set up a Ubiquiti 2.4GHz radio to pick up the SOHO router from 200 feet away from the house.   ------------ cut here -------------- bridge.status=enabled tshaper.status=disabled gui.network.advanced.status=enabled dhcp6c.status=disabled resolv.nameserver.status=enabled resolv.nameserver.2.status=disabled resolv.nameserver.2.ip= resolv.nameserver.1.status=disabled resolv.nameserver.1.ip= resolv.status=disabled ppp.status=disabled vlan.status=disabled users.status=enabled users.1.status=enabled users.1.password=ubnt users.1.name=ubnt system.eirp.status=disabled system.cfg.version=65546 sshd.status=enabled sshd.port=22 route.1.devname=br0 route.1.status=enabled route.1.comment= route.1.gateway=192.168.1.1 route.1.netmask=0 route.1.ip=0.0.0.0 route.status=enabled netmode=bridge netconf.3.up=enabled netconf.3.netmask=255.255.255.0 netconf.3.ip=192.168.1.20 netconf.3.hwaddr.mac= netconf.3.hwaddr.status=disabled netconf.3.alias.2.comment=Safety netconf.3.alias.2.netmask=255.0.0.0 netconf.3.alias.2.ip=10.0.0.200 netconf.3.alias.2.status=enabled netconf.3.alias.1.comment=Safety netconf.3.alias.1.netmask=255.255.255.0 netconf.3.alias.1.ip=192.168.0.20 netconf.3.alias.1.status=enabled netconf.3.autoip.status=enabled netconf.3.role=mlan netconf.3.mtu=1500 netconf.3.devname=br0 netconf.3.status=enabled netconf.2.up=enabled netconf.2.promisc=enabled netconf.2.netmask=255.255.255.0 netconf.2.ip=0.0.0.0 netconf.2.allmulti=enabled netconf.2.hwaddr.mac= netconf.2.hwaddr.status=disabled netconf.2.autoip.status=disabled netconf.2.role=bridge_port netconf.2.mtu=1500 netconf.2.devname=ath0 netconf.2.status=enabled netconf.1.up=enabled netconf.1.promisc=enabled netconf.1.netmask=255.255.255.0 netconf.1.ip=0.0.0.0 netconf.1.hwaddr.mac= netconf.1.hwaddr.status=disabled netconf.1.autoip.status=disabled netconf.1.role=bridge_port netconf.1.mtu=1500 netconf.1.devname=eth0 netconf.1.status=enabled netconf.status=enabled httpd.status=enabled httpd.https.status=enabled httpd.https.port=443 ebtables.sys.vlan.status=disabled ebtables.sys.status=enabled ebtables.sys.eap.status=disabled ebtables.sys.eap.1.status=enabled ebtables.sys.eap.1.devname=ath0 ebtables.sys.arpnat.status=enabled ebtables.sys.arpnat.1.status=enabled ebtables.sys.arpnat.1.devname=ath0 ebtables.status=enabled dhcpd.status=disabled dhcpc.1.status=disabled dhcpc.1.devname=br0 dhcpc.status=disabled radio.status=enabled radio.countrycode=840 radio.rate_module=atheros radio.1.txpower=24 radio.1.subsystemid=0xe1b2 radio.1.status=enabled radio.1.reg_obey=enabled radio.1.pollingpri= radio.1.pollingnoack=0 radio.1.polling=enabled radio.1.obey=enabled radio.1.mode=managed radio.1.ieee_mode=11nght40 radio.1.dfs.status=enabled radio.1.devname=ath0 radio.1.cwm.mode=1 radio.1.cwm.enable=0 radio.1.countrycode=840 radio.1.acktimeout=25 radio.1.ackdistance=600 radio.1.ack.auto=enabled radio.1.forbiasauto=1 radio.1.rate.auto=enabled radio.1.rate.mcs=15 radio.1.mcastrate=15 radio.1.chanbw=40 radio.1.antenna.id=6 radio.1.antenna.gain=24 radio.1.cable.loss=0 wireless.status=enabled wireless.hideindoor.status=disabled wireless.1.status=enabled wireless.1.ssid=Birdfarm2Office wireless.1.security.type=none wireless.1.hide_ssid=disabled wireless.1.devname=ath0 wireless.1.addmtikie=enabled wireless.1.wds.status=disabled wireless.1.authmode=1 wireless.1.scan_list.status=disabled wireless.1.scan_list.channels= wireless.1.ap= aaa.1.status=disabled aaa.status=disabled wpasupplicant.device.1.status=disabled wpasupplicant.status=disabled bridge.1.comment= bridge.1.fd=1 bridge.1.port.2.devname=ath0 bridge.1.port.2.status=enabled bridge.1.port.1.devname=eth0 bridge.1.port.1.status=enabled bridge.1.stp.status=disabled bridge.1.devname=br0 bridge.1.status=enabled gui.language=en_US users.2.status=enabled users.2.password= users.2.name=guest users.2.gid=100 users.2.uid=100 users.2.shell=/bin/false resolv.host.1.status=enabled resolv.host.1.name=Rocket M2 system.date.status=enabled system.date.timestamp=092600002017 system.timezone=GMT+8 system.button.reset=enabled update.check.status=enabled system.latitude= system.longitude= ------------ cut here --------------

Roy Tremblay <rmblayrrroy@nlnet.nl>: Sep 26 01:35AM > back of my house, either on the block wall where it can be a bit sheltered > or on the wooden barge board for the flat roof out in the weather.   > Preferably with POE to minimise the mechanical farting around.   To Rod Speed and anyone who wants to set up a ubiquiti radio as a receiver far from the house.   We had a half dozen spare Ubiquiti Rocket M2 radios on hand, because we swapped them all out for Rocket M5 radios instead (for the lower noise). <https://s26.postimg.org/86f1es2yh/radio.jpg>   So a bunch of us grabbed a few and set them up outside, a few hundred feet from the house, pointing over the air back at the normal home SOHO routers.   At about 200 feet line of sight from the barn to the house, we got signal strength of over minus 65 decibels, which is pretty good, and when we tested speeds, they were asymmetric (even though all our feeds are symmetric) at 43 Mbps down and 17 Mbps up, which is fine for what we're doing (since we get our Internet over the air via WISP).   The key to set up the Ubiquiti radio as a receiver is "station" and "bridge" for the two tabs, "wireless" and "network".   The configuration file has the radio set up with the following cfg file which can be loaded into any Ubiquiti Rocket M2 (and probably other Ubiquiti AirOS radios).   ------------ cut here -------------- bridge.status=enabled tshaper.status=disabled gui.network.advanced.status=enabled dhcp6c.status=disabled resolv.nameserver.status=enabled resolv.nameserver.2.status=disabled resolv.nameserver.2.ip= resolv.nameserver.1.status=disabled resolv.nameserver.1.ip= resolv.status=disabled ppp.status=disabled vlan.status=disabled users.status=enabled users.1.status=enabled users.1.password=ubnt users.1.name=ubnt system.eirp.status=disabled system.cfg.version=65546 sshd.status=enabled sshd.port=22 route.1.devname=br0 route.1.status=enabled route.1.comment= route.1.gateway=192.168.1.1 route.1.netmask=0 route.1.ip=0.0.0.0 route.status=enabled netmode=bridge netconf.3.up=enabled netconf.3.netmask=255.255.255.0 netconf.3.ip=192.168.1.20 netconf.3.hwaddr.mac= netconf.3.hwaddr.status=disabled netconf.3.alias.2.comment=Safety netconf.3.alias.2.netmask=255.0.0.0 netconf.3.alias.2.ip=10.0.0.200 netconf.3.alias.2.status=enabled netconf.3.alias.1.comment=Safety netconf.3.alias.1.netmask=255.255.255.0 netconf.3.alias.1.ip=192.168.0.20 netconf.3.alias.1.status=enabled netconf.3.autoip.status=enabled netconf.3.role=mlan netconf.3.mtu=1500 netconf.3.devname=br0 netconf.3.status=enabled netconf.2.up=enabled netconf.2.promisc=enabled netconf.2.netmask=255.255.255.0 netconf.2.ip=0.0.0.0 netconf.2.allmulti=enabled netconf.2.hwaddr.mac= netconf.2.hwaddr.status=disabled netconf.2.autoip.status=disabled netconf.2.role=bridge_port netconf.2.mtu=1500 netconf.2.devname=ath0 netconf.2.status=enabled netconf.1.up=enabled netconf.1.promisc=enabled netconf.1.netmask=255.255.255.0 netconf.1.ip=0.0.0.0 netconf.1.hwaddr.mac= netconf.1.hwaddr.status=disabled netconf.1.autoip.status=disabled netconf.1.role=bridge_port netconf.1.mtu=1500 netconf.1.devname=eth0 netconf.1.status=enabled netconf.status=enabled httpd.status=enabled httpd.https.status=enabled httpd.https.port=443 ebtables.sys.vlan.status=disabled ebtables.sys.status=enabled ebtables.sys.eap.status=disabled ebtables.sys.eap.1.status=enabled ebtables.sys.eap.1.devname=ath0 ebtables.sys.arpnat.status=enabled ebtables.sys.arpnat.1.status=enabled ebtables.sys.arpnat.1.devname=ath0 ebtables.status=enabled dhcpd.status=disabled dhcpc.1.status=disabled dhcpc.1.devname=br0 dhcpc.status=disabled radio.status=enabled radio.countrycode=840 radio.rate_module=atheros radio.1.txpower=24 radio.1.subsystemid=0xe1b2 radio.1.status=enabled radio.1.reg_obey=enabled radio.1.pollingpri= radio.1.pollingnoack=0 radio.1.polling=enabled radio.1.obey=enabled radio.1.mode=managed radio.1.ieee_mode=11nght40 radio.1.dfs.status=enabled radio.1.devname=ath0 radio.1.cwm.mode=1 radio.1.cwm.enable=0 radio.1.countrycode=840 radio.1.acktimeout=25 radio.1.ackdistance=600 radio.1.ack.auto=enabled radio.1.forbiasauto=1 radio.1.rate.auto=enabled radio.1.rate.mcs=15 radio.1.mcastrate=15 radio.1.chanbw=40 radio.1.antenna.id=6 radio.1.antenna.gain=24 radio.1.cable.loss=0 wireless.status=enabled wireless.hideindoor.status=disabled wireless.1.status=enabled wireless.1.ssid=Birdfarm2Office wireless.1.security.type=none wireless.1.hide_ssid=disabled wireless.1.devname=ath0 wireless.1.addmtikie=enabled wireless.1.wds.status=disabled wireless.1.authmode=1 wireless.1.scan_list.status=disabled wireless.1.scan_list.channels= wireless.1.ap= aaa.1.status=disabled aaa.status=disabled wpasupplicant.device.1.status=disabled wpasupplicant.status=disabled bridge.1.comment= bridge.1.fd=1 bridge.1.port.2.devname=ath0 bridge.1.port.2.status=enabled bridge.1.port.1.devname=eth0 bridge.1.port.1.status=enabled bridge.1.stp.status=disabled bridge.1.devname=br0 bridge.1.status=enabled gui.language=en_US users.2.status=enabled users.2.password= users.2.name=guest users.2.gid=100 users.2.uid=100 users.2.shell=/bin/false resolv.host.1.status=enabled resolv.host.1.name=Rocket M2 system.date.status=enabled system.date.timestamp=092600002017 system.timezone=GMT+8 system.button.reset=enabled update.check.status=enabled system.latitude= system.longitude= ------------ cut here --------------

You received this digest because you're subscribed to updates for this group. You can change your settings on the group membership page. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it send an email to sci.electronics.repair+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com.