Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 11 updates in 5 topics

J-J <none@none.non>: Jan 26 03:09PM -0500

>> and capacitance? In the video, he is using 20 uF, but I think that's
>> for a much larger bulb if I'm not mistaken. Thanks.
 
> he uses a lightbulb as ballast to limit current. No cap that I saw.
 
So the little blue round object at the bottom left of screen is not a
capacitor? Sure looks like it with the two posts sticking up from it,
but maybe not.
J-J <none@none.non>: Jan 26 03:11PM -0500

On 1/26/20 3:09 PM, J-J wrote:
 
> So the little blue round object at the bottom left of screen is not a
> capacitor?  Sure looks like it with the two posts sticking up from it,
> but maybe not.
 
Never mind, I guess that's the plug for the incandescent bulb. It seems
like that's all he has in series with the MV lamp then, an incandescent
bulb to act as ballast. Any more details on this would be appreciated.
tabbypurr@gmail.com: Jan 26 01:34PM -0800

On Sunday, 26 January 2020 20:11:41 UTC, J-J wrote:
 
> Never mind, I guess that's the plug for the incandescent bulb. It seems
> like that's all he has in series with the MV lamp then, an incandescent
> bulb to act as ballast. Any more details on this would be appreciated.
 
the only other detail one could add is that the discharge is snaking. IIRC, and can't be sure, that comes from underrunning the discharge, which often affects lamp life.
 
He makes the mistake of opening the window: let the ozone do its job.
 
 
NT
"pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Jan 27 08:31AM -0800


> He makes the mistake of opening the window: let the ozone do its job.
 
Sufficient atmospheric ozone to kill bacteria by exposure will pretty much destroy any rubber materials, attack many plastics, harm many plants and much worse.
 
https://www.epa.gov/indoor-air-quality-iaq/ozone-generators-are-sold-air-cleaners
 
Further to this, so-called "air cleaners" based on ozone are very similar to bug-zappers. They do not work, they can (and often do) cause harm and are generally worthless.
 
Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
tabbypurr@gmail.com: Jan 27 06:14AM -0800

Asked to fix one of these, but am stumped at the start: how does one open it? There's no screw on the plastic base under the label, and the feet aren't removable. The only other accessible screws are the 2 on the rear side: removing the top one doesn't free the wraparound side at all, the lower one is the earth connection. Puzzled.
 
https://ibb.co/Pt4nnvy
https://ibb.co/8PScWFm
https://ibb.co/nRm7RVH
https://ibb.co/yQGwBrr
https://ibb.co/DWhZWKR
https://ibb.co/r2HWP7j
 
The thing is o/c. It looks like a simple nonelectronic one, likely an easy fix if I work out how to open it!
"pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Jan 27 07:44AM -0800

http://www.buffalo-appliances.com/media/manuals/exploded%20diagram%20j300.pdf
 
Looks like some sort of snap-fit system. Are those black dots on the feet holes, or little rubber bits? If holes, you may be able to release the feet through them.
 
Landfill, or not, I expect that you will find replacement with a more serviceable model to be the expedient choice.
 
Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
J-J <none@none.non>: Jan 27 09:04AM -0500

Picked up a 1972 Taylor barograph. This is a weather instrument with an
electronic rotating drum. On the drum is taped a chart and, in
combination with a "pen" (of sorts), barometric pressure is recorded.
After a week, the charts are removed and replaced with a fresh one.
 
I picked this up surplus with the hopes of reselling, but I am having
trouble with two things: 1) sourcing a *cheap* slow drying ink, and 2)
possible pen woes.
 
I'm posting here because the rotating drum is, after all, electronic.
In other words, it does not use a wind up key, but electronic mechanism
and initial tests show that at least it appears to be rotating correctly
and on time.
 
However, just for testing, I cannot seem to find a low cost slow drying
ink. There is "barograph ink", but it is quite expensive for a tiny
amount. I know there must be alternative slow drying inks out there
with different names at less cost that might be suitable. Any
suggestions would be welcome here.
 
Another thing I want to work on is the pen. The original is a tiny,
triangular shaped stainless steel reservoir. A drop of ink is placed in
the reservoir and this lasts until empty. There are alternative "pens"
that are felt tipped, require no ink, and last up to two years... but
again expensive. I'm wondering if I might be able to modify or use a
standard felt pen from the store somehow in this application. Further
suggestions appreciated.
 
Thank you,
JJ
tabbypurr@gmail.com: Jan 27 06:22AM -0800

On Monday, 27 January 2020 14:04:16 UTC, J-J wrote:
> suggestions appreciated.
 
> Thank you,
> JJ
 
The first question is what inky materials do you have on hand? If you can dissolve one in oil, paraffin, diesel or any mixture of those, great. Last time I did this I was using printer's ink plus paraffin. Inks applied in small enough amounts don't need to dry at all, the liquid part just soaks into the paper.
 
I doubt an ordinary felt tip would work. You could sleeve the tip in plastic to try it, but I'm not optimistic. Most likely it'll run into the paper, and the paper will tear.
 
Oh, I remember an ink experiment ... vegetable oil & powder toner. Soot is also usable but not nearly as convenient, as there is the issue of particle size.
 
Anyway, why not use a biro?
 
 
NT
"Paul Hovnanian P.E." <paul@hovnanian.com>: Jan 26 08:12PM -0800

Jeff Liebermann wrote:
 
> <https://wiki.radioreference.com/index.php/Paging>
> Are you near one of these cities? If so, I might be able to find the
> location of the local paging transmiters using 929.6125 Mhz.
 
I ran an FCC database search on the 929.0 to 930.0 MHz pager band, centered
on Seattle (close enough to my location to cover reasonable transmitter
sites). No sites are licensed for exactly 929.6125 MHz. But with a wide
bandwidth front end, close enough might work.

 
> connection. If you have a service monitor, try tuning the receiver
> for best performance. Maybe replace the antenna with a length of coax
> and RF connector so that you can attach an external antenna.
 
There is no actual wire antenna on/in this thing. Basically just a little
brass bar soldered to the reciever board (a one turn loop). Next time I go
over to visit, I'll bring my unit and see if it loads as fast as theirs.
 
It is interesting that, when I do get updates, it does a pretty good job,
loading a 7 day forcast for 150 cities in the USA. But then it goes brain
dead and the forcast data ages out. So it does work in fits and starts
(without me having to smack it). When I power it down, the on-screen clock
re-acquires the current time within half an hour. The pager company probably
broadcasts a time signal for all its customers in a somewhat more reliable
manner than the weather data.
 
On a hopeful note: If the pager company is still maintaining their stuff, I
live about a mile from a major hospital and medical complex. Doctors being a
major customer for paging services, I seriously doubt that a viable paging
company would let their service go to s**t in this area.
 
 
I wish I had 900 MHz RF gear to do some testing. Most of my work is down
around 60 Hz.
 
Thanks for the RTL-SDR and Radio Reference links. I'll do some playing with
those when I get a chance.
 
--
Paul Hovnanian mailto:Paul@Hovnanian.com
------------------------------------------------------------------
Do not interfere in the affairs of dragons,
For you are crunchy and tasty with barbecue sauce.
Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Jan 26 10:46PM -0800

On Sun, 26 Jan 2020 20:12:27 -0800, "Paul Hovnanian P.E."
 
>Jeff Liebermann wrote:
 
>> Are you near one of these cities? If so, I might be able to find the
>> location of the local paging transmiters using 929.6125 Mhz.
 
Oops. I forgot to include the URL:
<http://old.ambientdevices.com/cat/150cities.html>
Looks like Seattle is (or was) listed as having coverage.
 
>on Seattle (close enough to my location to cover reasonable transmitter
>sites). No sites are licensed for exactly 929.6125 MHz. But with a wide
>bandwidth front end, close enough might work.
 
The FCC database is rather difficult to use. I don't want to ruin my
evening by trying to find something in there.
 
This might be of interest. See Pages 7 and 21
<https://labs.ece.uw.edu/funlab/funlab_CRdata/Seattle%20TVWS/radardata_v2.ppt>
Looks like the Univ Washington Medical Center uses 929.6125. I doubt
that UWMC is sending weather info on their paging system. It's
probably coming from some other provider on the same frequency. Or,
the previous provider of weather data sold the frequency to UWMC some
time in the past. If I could find the license, I could lookup the
history.
 
More:
<http://cloud.spok.com/coverage/LocalOne-way/SEA.pdf>
 
>There is no actual wire antenna on/in this thing. Basically just a little
>brass bar soldered to the reciever board (a one turn loop). Next time I go
>over to visit, I'll bring my unit and see if it loads as fast as theirs.
 
Is there a ceramic trimmer capacitor near the brass bar? Something
that small for 900 MHz is going to have a rather high Q and require
tuning to get it on frequency. I think you'll find the tuning
adjustment to be rather critical.
 
>re-acquires the current time within half an hour. The pager company probably
>broadcasts a time signal for all its customers in a somewhat more reliable
>manner than the weather data.
 
Flex Time is usually sent once per minute and is typically off by as
much as 30 seconds. I presume it varies with type of pager and
transmitter maintenance. How your weather station handles time
signals is unknown.
 
>live about a mile from a major hospital and medical complex. Doctors being a
>major customer for paging services, I seriously doubt that a viable paging
>company would let their service go to s**t in this area.
 
The hospital might be handling their own paging. See previous mention
of UWMC.
 
--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Jan 26 07:59PM

The annoying situation , due to thousands of make/break connection to a
laptop and eventual wear. Where , despite cleaning of contacts, movement
of the cable often breaks contact.
A small piece of that protective slide of a 3in floppy disk, cut to L in
cross section and wide enough to feed in the "gap" between USB line plug
plastic slab of insulation and the metal shroud. So the short return
part of the L is against the end of the plastic slab, just enough width
to act as an end stop to loosing fully in the gap.
May of course accelerate failure of the chassis socket part , but at
0.15mm thick metal , perhaps not, we'll see.
 
 
--
Monthly public talks on science topics, Hampshire , England
<http://diverse.4mg.com/scicaf.htm>
You received this digest because you're subscribed to updates for this group. You can change your settings on the group membership page.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it send an email to sci.electronics.repair+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com.

Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 3 updates in 3 topics

jaugustine@verizon.net: Jan 26 08:09AM -0500

Hi,
 
I am looking to buy a schematic (or SM) for my Uniden Bearcat BC855XLT
50 channels scanner.
 
I had searched the web for a source about a year ago.
 
Does anyone know where I can get a schematic?
 
Thank You in advance, John
tabbypurr@gmail.com: Jan 26 02:44AM -0800

On Sunday, 26 January 2020 01:52:37 UTC, J-J wrote:
> a standard ballast. How would I go about calculating incandescent size
> and capacitance? In the video, he is using 20 uF, but I think that's
> for a much larger bulb if I'm not mistaken. Thanks.
 
he uses a lightbulb as ballast to limit current. No cap that I saw.
 
 
NT
cosentino.ma@gmail.com: Jan 26 12:46AM -0800


> I'l try with these you recommend if those I ordered turn to be a not suitable / bad replacement.
 
> Best,
> Marco
 
I now gained quite some more experience on the subject. I can confirm MA2C029WA are a suitable replacement for the MA27-A2. I tested that for years in "production" on my own Technics SU-V3 amp. Of course I can't guarantee about extreme conditions but it seems to me that the key function of "stabilization" is performed by the negative slope of the VF-Ta curve which would guarantee that, in the configuration in which the diodes are used, the lowering of VF with temperature increase will change the bias point of the circuit in a way that prevents thermal runaway.
The MA2C029 series offers a very wide range of forward voltages and it basically serves the case of "double diodes". I need to do more research if I had to replace the MA26 itself but I think the search for a replacement may be much easier for that one.
 
See this thread also: https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/matsushita-diode-ma27a2-ma26-2.621043/
 
Also some other hard to find diodes in these amps are the OA90 diodes. I was able to find some NOS on ebay at very reasonable prices and I stocked them up. See below for the datasheet.
 
Some technics amplifiers, for example the SU-8088, use the dreaded SVDSTV4HG.
Since that is attached to the heatsink with its very long leads (needs to be thermally coupled to the final transistors) it happens that sometimes the leads break because of mechanical stress and the bias circuit doesn't like that basically causing some cascade breakdown of the final stage.
See this dicussion
https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/dead-power-amp-in-technics-su-8088-interesting-story.498025/
 
 
and also the datasheets:
https://www.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/pdf/13904/PANASONIC/MA2B027.html
http://datasheet.octopart.com/MA26-Panasonic-datasheet-108588.pdf
https://www.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/pdf/13911/PANASONIC/MA2C029.html
https://pdf1.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/view/166122/ETC1/OA90.html (on the third page!)
You received this digest because you're subscribed to updates for this group. You can change your settings on the group membership page.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it send an email to sci.electronics.repair+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com.

Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 25 updates in 9 topics

Cursitor Doom <curd@notformail.com>: Jan 19 06:18PM

Gentlemen,
 
Would I be correct in thinking that if you have an item of test
equipment with a CRT display and it's dim and when you try to turn up
the brightness it actually gets dimmer for the last bit as you get
towards maximum? And there's nothing you can do about it; it's only
fit for spare parts?
 
tia
--
 
No deal? No problem! :-D
Cursitor Doom <curd@notformail.com>: Jan 19 10:40PM

On Sun, 19 Jan 2020 13:39:12 -0800 (PST), John-Del <ohger1s@gmail.com>
wrote:
 
>Lots of circuit maladies will simulate a weak CRT. Start with voltage readings, move to waveforms. Low high voltage will cause the picture to dim as the drive to the tube is increased for instance.
 
I was given to understand elsewhere (which is why I'm double-checking
here) that a CRT which has gone dim and reaches its peak brightness
before dimming again towards the end of the intensity control sweep is
irretrievably fucked and not worth further investment in time. It
would be nice if that advice is indeed incorrect!
 
--
 
No deal? No problem! :-D
Cursitor Doom <curd@notformail.com>: Jan 20 09:56AM

On Sun, 19 Jan 2020 15:02:37 -0800, Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>
wrote:
 
>provide the maker and model number of what you are working on? I'm
>wondering if you have a pathological aversion towards numbers, or
>perhaps you might be embarrassed by your choice of test equipment.
 
I didn't want to limit it to one specific item, Jeff; just wanted to
make the question as general to CRO test equipment as possible.
Someone opined thusly about the matter on some discussion forum and I
thought it might be useful to keep it in mind for future
eventualities, that's all! Anyway, it was bad advice, clearly.
 
--
 
No deal? No problem! :-D
Cursitor Doom <curd@notformail.com>: Jan 20 09:59AM

On Sun, 19 Jan 2020 22:44:02 -0800, John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>
wrote:
 
>usually a fault with the HV diode, especially in B&W CRTs.
 
>That might be considered to be cheating - actually providing useful
>background information...
 
Since you didn't read the question in the first place I'll excuse
myself on that one. The issue was *not* about the image
shrinking/growing during intensity adjustment!!
--
 
No deal? No problem! :-D
Cursitor Doom <curd@notformail.com>: Jan 18 09:11PM

Gentlemen,
 
How reliable are the old 'tin-can' encapsulated op-amps from say 40
years ago? I'm talking about the ones that look like large transistors
and have typically 8 leads in the TO5-8 package. I'm unable to provide
a part number as these don't have one as such. Could be a 741 perhaps
but I can't be certain. Are they known to fail?
 
thanks.
--
 
No deal? No problem! :-D
Cursitor Doom <curd@notformail.com>: Jan 19 01:26AM

On Sat, 18 Jan 2020 14:12:19 -0800, John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>
wrote:
 
>damage (moisture working in via the leads) is one primary cause of
>failure. If the leads look good then chances are fairly good the device
>will work.
 
No sign of corrosion at all on the leads.
 
>I use lots of 30 to 40+ year old components all the time for servicing
>our classic arcade games. Most are perfectly good. Other than
>electrolytic capacitors.
 
So do I. The question wasn't about NOS components, but components that
have been in service for decades.
 
 
--
 
No deal? No problem! :-D
Trevor Wilson <trevor@rageaudio.com.au>: Jan 19 12:32PM +1100

On 19/01/2020 8:11 am, Cursitor Doom wrote:
> and have typically 8 leads in the TO5-8 package. I'm unable to provide
> a part number as these don't have one as such. Could be a 741 perhaps
> but I can't be certain. Are they known to fail?
 
**No. Provided supply Voltages remain within the limits set by the
manufacturer, metal can OP amps, transistors, etc are phenomenally
reliable. For a long time, all MIL-spec semiconductors were metal can
only. They might still be, but I doubt it. In the early days of plastic
encapsulation, some problems were notable. Mostly with power devices.
Things have improved markedly over the years, but you will likely never
approach the reliability of a metal can device by using plastic.
 
 
--
Trevor Wilson
www.rageaudio.com.au
Trevor Wilson <trevor@rageaudio.com.au>: Jan 20 10:04AM +1100

On 20/01/2020 9:55 am, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
> alternate sources for about $2.5 million/year of their components.
> When I mentioned this to the sales rep, he acted like he didn't care
> or it wasn't important.
 
**Oh, now that is interesting stuff.
 
--
Trevor Wilson
www.rageaudio.com.au
Cursitor Doom <curd@notformail.com>: Jan 19 01:23AM

>> but I can't be certain. Are they known to fail?
 
>> thanks.
 
>The problem components from that era are lytics of course and glob-top transistors.
 
OK, I have to know.. "Glob-top"??
--
 
No deal? No problem! :-D
Cursitor Doom <curd@notformail.com>: Jan 19 10:10AM


>http://www.ichom.org/Overig-499982/Connectoren-schakelaars-kabels-FAIRCHILD-Glob-Top/
 
>The round top is an epoxy glob covering the die, which sits on the flat thick sheet material that holds the leads. 2 tone ones make this easy to see, all black ones not so much.
 
Ah. Ok. I have a few hundred of those but some obscure part numbers
and all PNP so are unlikely to be called into service here. :)
--
 
No deal? No problem! :-D
KC JONES <kcharlie@nowhere.net>: Jan 18 04:11PM -0500

I've had a germicidal lamp more or less in storage for a number of
years, but recently brought it out to sterilize a room where a person
had been sick. However, I don't know if it still emits the germ killing
UVC spectrum. What's a quick way I could tell for sure? Thanks.
Allodoxaphobia <trepidation@example.net>: Jan 19 06:09PM

On Sun, 19 Jan 2020 10:08:04 -0500, Ralph Mowery wrote:
> that some buttons are sewen on with will work.
 
> Where I worked making polyester sandoze was added to the material to
> make the whites even whiter. That glows under UV light.
 
Cat piss. Cat piss shows up quite bright under UV light.
 
Glad to help,
Jonesy
--
Marvin L Jones | Marvin | W3DHJ.net | linux
38.238N 104.547W | @ jonz.net | Jonesy | FreeBSD
* Killfiling google & XXXXbanter.com: jonz.net/ng.htm
amdx <nojunk@knology.net>: Jan 19 09:01AM -0600

On 1/19/2020 8:59 AM, amdx wrote:
> senses any UVC. OR buy a UVC sensor and flip flop covering and
> uncovering the sensor and see if you get a square wave output.
 
>                                       Mikek
 
I should have posted the sensor.
> https://cdn-shop.adafruit.com/datasheets/1918guva.pdf
 
and the adafruit pcb.
 
amdx <nojunk@knology.net>: Jan 20 08:23PM -0600

On 1/19/2020 9:01 AM, amdx wrote:
 
>  and the adafruit pcb.
 
>> https://www.adafruit.com/product/1918?gclid=Cj0KCQiAmZDxBRDIARIsABnkbYTW4uwwxg5rvIcjY6z2MlUDvmN4QcL5PgAGeBvgHixbOqSlqbiXfFMaAn90EALw_wcB
 
No one has responded to my post. Is there anything fundamentally wrong
other than the cost of filters is high and the sensor has it weakest
response in the UVC wavelength.
I don't mind the idea getting shot down, I'd learn something.
 
Mikek
Stephen Wolstenholme <steve@easynn.com>: Jan 20 03:18PM

On Sat, 18 Jan 2020 16:11:01 -0500, KC JONES <kcharlie@nowhere.net>
wrote:
 
>years, but recently brought it out to sterilize a room where a person
>had been sick. However, I don't know if it still emits the germ killing
>UVC spectrum. What's a quick way I could tell for sure? Thanks.
 
All the UVC lights I have ever used have some part of the visible
spectrum. See if white items "glow".
 
Steve
 
--
http://www.npsnn.com
Lucifer <LuciferMorningstar@bigpond.com>: Jan 18 12:10PM +1100

>in a spare telephone at that jack, and used my Tracfone to call
>my landline number. The first time, the telephone rang. A little
>while later, I tried it again, and by golly, it did not ring.
 
Is your phone connected to your modem or are you still on ADSL?
jaugustine@verizon.net: Jan 21 07:25AM -0500

On Mon, 20 Jan 2020 09:34:17 -0800 (PST), "pfjw@aol.com"
 
>The internet is your friend.
 
>Peter Wieck
>Melrose Park, PA
 
Hi, I saw that "sandman", and other places on the web, but it did NOT say
anything about the ringing voltages from red to ground or green to ground.
 
That is why I made this post.
 
John
jaugustine@verizon.net: Jan 20 12:23PM -0500

Hi,
 
I have used a Fluke DMM with a Max/Min capture feature to measure the
ringing voltage, not only red to green, but also red to ground (and green to
ground).
 
To my surprise, the red wire to ground ringing voltage (some telephone
equipment on line) was 93.2 VAC !! The green wire to ground ringing voltage
was 36.4VAC. Note: Telephones are ringing.
 
Is this normal?
 
Thank You in advance, John
"Paul Hovnanian P.E." <paul@hovnanian.com>: Jan 25 05:43PM -0800

Jeff Liebermann wrote:
 
> On Fri, 24 Jan 2020 15:40:47 -0800, "Paul Hovnanian P.E."
> <paul@hovnanian.com> wrote:
 
>>https://www.cnet.com/reviews/ambient-devices-7-day-weather-forecaster-
review/
>>any ideas?
 
> Please post the FCC ID number from the serial number sticker and I'll
> see what I can find out about the receiver section.
 
No model or FCC ID number anywhere on this thing (it's Chinese). Either on
the outside, it the battery compartment or internally. What appears to be
the receiver section has a sticker on it that reads '929.6125'. Taking a
wild gues that this is MHz, that puts it in a pager band.
 
 
> Hmmm... <http://map.myambient.com> is suppose to produce a coverage
> map for the weather service. Instead, it produces a text page
> suggesting you call Ambient Support.
 
Ambient support is pretty much defunct. Although they do seem to be
broadcasting updates.
 
> For troubleshooting, see:
 
<http://myambient.com/productDetail/XDayForecasterSupportPage/serialPrefix/140/>
> Check the signal strength indicator in the upper right corner of the
> screen. Zero or 1 bar isn't good enough.
 
Yeah. One bar most of the time. Although I did try an interesting
experiment. I took the thing with me in my car and drove to the neighborhood
grocery store. One bar pretty much everywhere except for one location about
a block from my house. The signal strength meter pegs in front of one house.
 
I'm toying with the idea of putting together a spectrum analyzer app for my
SDR dongle and sniffing around for spurious sources around that frequency.
 
--
Paul Hovnanian mailto:Paul@Hovnanian.com
------------------------------------------------------------------
The large print giveth and the small print taketh away.
-- Tom Waits
Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Jan 25 09:50PM -0800

On Sat, 25 Jan 2020 17:43:42 -0800, "Paul Hovnanian P.E."
 
>No model or FCC ID number anywhere on this thing (it's Chinese).
 
Lovely. So much for FCC type certification. Probably arrived in the
US by the back door.
 
>Either on
>the outside, it the battery compartment or internally.
 
The label is suppose to be plainly visible on the outside of the unit.
 
>What appears to be
>the receiver section has a sticker on it that reads '929.6125'. Taking a
>wild gues that this is MHz, that puts it in a pager band.
 
Yep, that's a pager frequency. Probably USA Mobility running Flex,
not POCSAG:
<https://wiki.radioreference.com/index.php/Paging>
Are you near one of these cities? If so, I might be able to find the
location of the local paging transmiters using 929.6125 Mhz.
 
>Ambient support is pretty much defunct. Although they do seem to be
>broadcasting updates.
 
Yep. Over the years, I've bought quite a bit of weather station
related stuff from them.
 
The weather updates are not coming from Ambient. They're coming from
some service that uses the paging frequencies for distribution. Pager
users are usually (not always) expected to pay for such added
services. My guess(tm) is that data originates from the NOAA "Weather
Wire" or EMWIN satellite feed:
<https://www.weather.gov/nwws/>
<https://www.weather.gov/emwin/>
Probably not EMWIN as it was suppose to roll over and die on December
2, 2019.
 
>experiment. I took the thing with me in my car and drove to the neighborhood
>grocery store. One bar pretty much everywhere except for one location about
>a block from my house. The signal strength meter pegs in front of one house.
 
I suspect the reason it pegs is the house has a 900 MHz wireless
headset or telephone in use. The receiver in your 7 day forecaster
box is probably fairly crude and might have a rather wide band front
end. If you have anything handy that will belch 900 MHz, see if it
registers on the bar graph.
 
>I'm toying with the idea of putting together a spectrum analyzer app for my
>SDR dongle and sniffing around for spurious sources around that frequency.
 
That should work. You can also decode the FLEX 3200(?) data:
<https://www.rtl-sdr.com/tag/flex/>
I use my modified Radio Shock scanner and Linux laptop running
Mulimon-NG:
<https://www.rtl-sdr.com/tag/multimon-ng/>
<https://github.com/EliasOenal/multimon-ng>
I have a pile of RTL-SDR dongles that I use mostly for monitoring
aircraft ADS-B transmissions:
<https://flightaware.com/adsb/stats/user/JeffLiebermann>
 
I'm wondering about the difference in performance between your friends
unit and yours. My guess(tm) is that there's something wrong with
your receiver section. Open it up and look for a disconnected antenna
connection. If you have a service monitor, try tuning the receiver
for best performance. Maybe replace the antenna with a length of coax
and RF connector so that you can attach an external antenna.
 
 
--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
James Reaper <jreap6678@aoldot.net>: Jan 25 12:22PM -0500

Not really a circuit board, but still an electronic item of trouble. My
wireless keyboard space bar seems to want to stick, not completely but
sometimes it just doesn't want to release. I have blown out the area
all around the space bar with compressed air followed by 91% iso
cleaning around it with cotton swabs, getting as deep as possible by
thinning the swabs. Still wants to stick. Any other suggestions
welcome. Thanks in advance.
tabbypurr@gmail.com: Jan 25 12:38PM -0800

On Saturday, 25 January 2020 17:22:08 UTC, James Reaper wrote:
> cleaning around it with cotton swabs, getting as deep as possible by
> thinning the swabs. Still wants to stick. Any other suggestions
> welcome. Thanks in advance.
 
half a drop of mineral oil
 
 
NT
Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Jan 25 09:15PM -0800

On Sat, 25 Jan 2020 12:22:04 -0500, James Reaper
>cleaning around it with cotton swabs, getting as deep as possible by
>thinning the swabs. Still wants to stick. Any other suggestions
>welcome. Thanks in advance.
 
Any hints as to the maker of the keyboard and model number? If
unavailable, a description of the type of keyboard, or a photo of
something similar as found on Google image search.
 
My random guess(tm) is that it's an older Dell keyboard, such as one
of these:
<https://www.google.com/search?q=dell+sk-8135+sk-8115+sk-8125&tbm=isch>
The SK-8135 happens to be my favorite keyboard. I'm therefore
familiar with its benefits and its bad habits. A sticky space bar is
one of them. The usual problem is one end of the stiff balance wire,
that goes the length of the space bar, which allows the use of a
single well for the key switch, has come loose at one end, causing the
space bar to slide un-evenly into the square well with the switch at
the bottom. This creates roughness and burrs around the square key
well. It's difficult to see the burrs, but you can feel them with a
finger or view them with a decent illuminated magnifier.
 
You'll need to remove the space bar in order to clean and deburr the
plastic well. Remove the two Alt keys on either side of the space
bar. Use the proper keycap removal tool, or you'll break something:
<https://www.google.com/search?q=keycap+removal+tool&tbm=isch>
Then, remove the space bar by pulling up evenly on both ends. Take a
photo of how the stiff wire thing is mounted or you may have problems
putting it back together.
 
My fix is to run a pocket knife over the mating surfaces and across
the edges of the plastic box to remove any gouges and burrs. It
doesn't take much of a burr to cause problems. Do NOT use a razor,
sharp knife, Xacto knife, or anything sharp enough to add additional
gouges in the plastic. Plastic razor scrapers also will work:
<https://www.acehardware.com/departments/paint-and-supplies/painting-tools-and-supplies/paint-scrapers/1380971>
 
Please do NOT lubricate the plastic square well area with anything.
All that does is attract dirt and dust, which will eventually turn to
tar. Alcohol cleaning (70% or 91%) is fine as it removes any gunk and
leaves no residue.
 
--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
J-J <none@none.non>: Jan 25 08:52PM -0500

Now let me start off by saying that I have no intention of operating a
175W MV lamp with the envelope smashed as the guy does in the video
you're about to see, but....
 
What fascinates me is that he seems to ignite and operate the MV lamp
without a ballast using a standard incandescent and capacitor. The
incandescent looks like it is wired in series with the bulb and the
capacitor in parallel. Here is where he explains it in the video:
 
https://youtu.be/WjKkgkbRSgY?t=73
 
The question is, I don't have a ballast either and I would like to try
out a standard 175 W MV lamp in my backyard briefly before investing in
a standard ballast. How would I go about calculating incandescent size
and capacitance? In the video, he is using 20 uF, but I think that's
for a much larger bulb if I'm not mistaken. Thanks.
amdx <nojunk@knology.net>: Jan 25 11:58AM -0600

>> other cookers. I was melting pennies making the teacher very nervous!
>> Mikek
 
> Did you try a nickel or a dime?
 
I'm to frugal for that!
No, not that I recall, just Zinc pennies.
 
Mikek
You received this digest because you're subscribed to updates for this group. You can change your settings on the group membership page.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it send an email to sci.electronics.repair+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com.