sci.electronics.repair - 19 new messages in 8 topics - digest

sci.electronics.repair
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair?hl=en

sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Today's topics:

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Looks similar search engine?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/6de20fea92c27ebc?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Fri, Apr 30 2010 12:36 am
From: "N_Cook"

GregS <zekfrivo@zekfrivolous.com> wrote in message
news:hrchtq$4m8$2@usenet01.srv.cis.pitt.edu...
> In article <83tvd5Fef6U1@mid.individual.net>, Adrian C
<email@here.invalid> wrote:
> >On 29/04/2010 12:05, N_Cook wrote:
> >> Where you can upload a pic of a mystery item somewhere, direct a search
> >> engine to it , analyses it and finds similar. ?
> >> I have a no name web cam I would like to find a driver
> >
> >That's easy (unless some rules have been broken).
> >
> >Google 'usb device id list' and ask your operating system what device id
> >it sees.
> >
> >for and also a few
> >> hundred, no context silver-plated brass widgets , no name /number etc
also,
> >> I'd like to identify
> >
> >That is a bit harder, needs human eyes. Can you post a picture on
> >somewhere like photobucket?
> >
>
> Search engines do not analyse pictures. You do need to up load pictures
and have experts analyse,
> like a forum for silver plated brass widgets. You show them where to find
pictures.
>
> By the way, Yahoo still favors using Flicker for their image library, but
> have greatly improved their image library. I have also noticed they are
better
> than Google at indexing many websites, and like always, you have to use
different
> search engines to find the info you are looking for.
>
> greg

Not really much to photograph
The widgets have a shape like bootlace ferrules but not for crimping as
thicker brass and also silver plating. Maybe a variant of turret tags for
setting in pcb without the turrets or some sort of terminal or pin.
12.5 mm long, hole through axis with a ridge around the outside, one end 1mm
hole and 2.5mm outside dimension and other end 2.8mm hole and 3.8mm outside.

== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Fri, Apr 30 2010 7:11 am
From: Adrian C

On 30/04/2010 08:36, N_Cook wrote:
> Not really much to photograph
> The widgets have a shape like bootlace ferrules but not for crimping as
> thicker brass and also silver plating. Maybe a variant of turret tags for
> setting in pcb without the turrets or some sort of terminal or pin.
> 12.5 mm long, hole through axis with a ridge around the outside, one end 1mm
> hole and 2.5mm outside dimension and other end 2.8mm hole and 3.8mm outside.
>

I think its a pin contact insert for a multi-pole connector. The ridge
fixes the pin in whatever material is the connector body and wires are
pushed and soldered inside the thicker end of it.

--
Adrian C

== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Fri, Apr 30 2010 9:25 am
From: "N_Cook"

Adrian C <email@here.invalid> wrote in message
news:8406ooFsmnU1@mid.individual.net...
> On 30/04/2010 08:36, N_Cook wrote:
> > Not really much to photograph
> > The widgets have a shape like bootlace ferrules but not for crimping as
> > thicker brass and also silver plating. Maybe a variant of turret tags
for
> > setting in pcb without the turrets or some sort of terminal or pin.
> > 12.5 mm long, hole through axis with a ridge around the outside, one end
1mm
> > hole and 2.5mm outside dimension and other end 2.8mm hole and 3.8mm
outside.
> >
>
> I think its a pin contact insert for a multi-pole connector. The ridge
> fixes the pin in whatever material is the connector body and wires are
> pushed and soldered inside the thicker end of it.
>
> --
> Adrian C

DIN41612 type connectors with power carrying pins incorporated perhaps, like
these
http://media4.rscomponents.cataloguesolutions.com/LargeProductImages/R469746
-01.jpg

==============================================================================
TOPIC: ATX power supply fan noisy.
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/c9cc85470d364e01?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Fri, Apr 30 2010 1:11 am
From: Franc Zabkar

On Thu, 29 Apr 2010 02:38:14 +0100, "Arfa Daily"
<arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> put finger to keyboard and composed:

>If you want long and quiet service, make sure that you get one with roller
>bearings, not the cheapo sleeve bearings.
>
>Arfa

Ceramic bearings appear to be even better:
http://www.ceramicafans.com/whyceramic.htm

- Franc Zabkar
--
Please remove one 'i' from my address when replying by email.

== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Fri, Apr 30 2010 5:34 pm
From: "Arfa Daily"

"Franc Zabkar" <fzabkar@iinternode.on.net> wrote in message
news:m54lt5demg9ddj1g4slrvsgmd9qut984ao@4ax.com...
> On Thu, 29 Apr 2010 02:38:14 +0100, "Arfa Daily"
> <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> put finger to keyboard and composed:
>
>>If you want long and quiet service, make sure that you get one with roller
>>bearings, not the cheapo sleeve bearings.
>>
>>Arfa
>
> Ceramic bearings appear to be even better:
> http://www.ceramicafans.com/whyceramic.htm
>
> - Franc Zabkar
> --
> Please remove one 'i' from my address when replying by email.

Haven't had any experience of them yet.

Arfa

== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Fri, Apr 30 2010 9:13 pm
From: UCLAN

Arfa Daily wrote:

>>>If you want long and quiet service, make sure that you get one with roller
>>>bearings, not the cheapo sleeve bearings.
>>>
>>>Arfa
>>
>>Ceramic bearings appear to be even better:
>>http://www.ceramicafans.com/whyceramic.htm
>>
>>- Franc Zabkar
>>--
>>Please remove one 'i' from my address when replying by email.
>
> Haven't had any experience of them yet.

While ball-bearing fans have the longevity edge over cheap sleeve bearing
fans, they aren't necessarily quieter. And newer sleeve bearing designs,
such as Nidec's NBRX sleeve bearing, have made great strides in longevity.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Sony KV-2784R horiz problem
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/cf85a32f811047d5?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Fri, Apr 30 2010 7:12 am
From: Chuck

On Thu, 29 Apr 2010 16:54:03 -0400, bill@love.ranch wrote:

>Thanks Chuck, I was just going to ask that.
>
>How is it usually checked.
>
>There is no continuity between coils at DC.
>coil resistance seems within reason but as low as it is that probably
>isn't a very good test.
>I haven't got one laying around to sub.
>It is, after all, 24 yrs old. But the CRT is still OK.
>
>Can they be had and at what price????????
>
>
>
>
>On Thu, 29 Apr 2010 08:16:37 -0500, Chuck <chuckh@deja.net> wrote:
>
>>On Wed, 28 Apr 2010 10:21:00 -0400, bill@love.ranch wrote:
>>
>>>Sony KV-2784R died - horiz collapse - fuse F501 blown - pressing power
>>>button causes TV to try to start then stops - very soft high freq buzz
>>>is heard. Remote control will not start it. HOT and all diodes in area
>>>test OK with ohmmeter. Fuse is somewhat blackened at end where it
>>>seperated, so it wasn't a slight overload. I do not have schematics.
>>>Is there any history of common component failures here.Just for ref, I
>>>am very technical and had a repair shop in the 80's - this was built
>>>11/86 - just after I closed the shop. So speak to me at that level,
>>>thx.
>>
>>Most common failure on these is a shorted flyback. Chuck

If you have a scope with a ten times probe, set the V. input for the
highest voltage possible and the H. rate at 20 us and connect the
probe to the HOT collector after plugging the tv into an isolation
transformer. Replace the blown fuse and turn on set. If there is
ringing between the HO pulses, power the set down immediately and
order a flyback replacement. I'd check MCM for a replacement. If
they don't have them, sometimes an Asti flyback will work in a Sony
set. (I haven't had any luck with them for other brands.) Chuck

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Fri, Apr 30 2010 7:23 pm
From: bill@love.ranch

OK, I am operating on probabilities here. The rest of the set is 300
miles away. I have a scope and other necessaries but can't plug the tv
in. My extension cords are not long enough. I can get a new fbt for
about $15. what is the probability that will fix it when I carry the
chassis back and fire it up????????????

I have checked all semis with an ohmmeter and find nothing unusual.
The set is 24 yrs old and neer had a problem.
Caps all respond properly to an ohmmeter. I could pull some parts and
ring them with ac but....

What is the probability a fbt will fix it??

thx

On Fri, 30 Apr 2010 09:12:20 -0500, Chuck <chuckh@deja.net> wrote:

>On Thu, 29 Apr 2010 16:54:03 -0400, bill@love.ranch wrote:
>
>>Thanks Chuck, I was just going to ask that.
>>
>>How is it usually checked.
>>
>>There is no continuity between coils at DC.
>>coil resistance seems within reason but as low as it is that probably
>>isn't a very good test.
>>I haven't got one laying around to sub.
>>It is, after all, 24 yrs old. But the CRT is still OK.
>>
>>Can they be had and at what price????????
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>On Thu, 29 Apr 2010 08:16:37 -0500, Chuck <chuckh@deja.net> wrote:
>>
>>>On Wed, 28 Apr 2010 10:21:00 -0400, bill@love.ranch wrote:
>>>
>>>>Sony KV-2784R died - horiz collapse - fuse F501 blown - pressing power
>>>>button causes TV to try to start then stops - very soft high freq buzz
>>>>is heard. Remote control will not start it. HOT and all diodes in area
>>>>test OK with ohmmeter. Fuse is somewhat blackened at end where it
>>>>seperated, so it wasn't a slight overload. I do not have schematics.
>>>>Is there any history of common component failures here.Just for ref, I
>>>>am very technical and had a repair shop in the 80's - this was built
>>>>11/86 - just after I closed the shop. So speak to me at that level,
>>>>thx.
>>>
>>>Most common failure on these is a shorted flyback. Chuck
>
>
>If you have a scope with a ten times probe, set the V. input for the
>highest voltage possible and the H. rate at 20 us and connect the
>probe to the HOT collector after plugging the tv into an isolation
>transformer. Replace the blown fuse and turn on set. If there is
>ringing between the HO pulses, power the set down immediately and
>order a flyback replacement. I'd check MCM for a replacement. If
>they don't have them, sometimes an Asti flyback will work in a Sony
>set. (I haven't had any luck with them for other brands.) Chuck

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Ampex 601 Reel to Reel plays back fine but has only AC hum in record
mode
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/4809b98e5968ff10?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Fri, Apr 30 2010 8:47 am
From: Robert Macy

On Apr 29, 1:07 pm, "Dave M" <dgminala4...@mediacombb.net> wrote:
> Meat Plow wrote:
> > On Fri, 30 Apr 2010 01:49:05 +1000, Phil Allison wrote:
>
> >> "Meat Plow"
>
> >>> What's the URL of the schematic?
>
> >> **See:
>
> >>http://recordist.com/ampex/schematics/601man/601schem.gif
>
> >> ** Wanna bet the mic input tranny is missing and /or the hum balance
> >> trim pot is burnt out ?
>
> > How is the OP is recording, from Line or MIC? Don't remember and you
> > snipped the quote.
>
> > Hum balance is R-147?
>
> OP says that the hum is present when recording from both mic and line
> inputs. Sounds like a ground connection is broken somewhere around V101,
> V102 or V103. Also check those tubes for heater-cathode short. Check line
> record level pot and mic record level pot for broken grround connection or
> open wiper.
> Make sure that the bias oscillator (V103B) is running in record mode.
> --
> David
> dgminala at mediacombb dot net

I once had a bias oscillator kick up to a very high frequency [part
failure] intermittently. You could not believe the high quality of
the recording when the oscillator went berzerk. Down side, got super
hot, even the plate on one tube just starting to glow.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Part # of Magnetron for Microwave Oven Emerson MW9107WC
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/f77addde8cb547fd?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 5 ==
Date: Fri, Apr 30 2010 10:55 am
From: Cydrome Leader

Yimin Rong <yiminrong@yahoo.ca> wrote:
> Greetings,
>
> Can someone tell me the part # of the magnetron for microwave oven
> Emerson MW9107WC?
>
> I know I could probably just take it apart and see for myself, but
> would like to determine cost effectiveness of getting a replacement
> part and repairing myself, bringing to service technician, or just
> getting a new one.

How do you know the magnetron is bad, if you haven't even opened the unit
yet?

== 2 of 5 ==
Date: Fri, Apr 30 2010 1:19 pm
From: "ian field"

"Cydrome Leader" <presence@MUNGEpanix.com> wrote in message
news:hrf5im$ko7$1@reader1.panix.com...
> Yimin Rong <yiminrong@yahoo.ca> wrote:
>> Greetings,
>>
>> Can someone tell me the part # of the magnetron for microwave oven
>> Emerson MW9107WC?
>>
>> I know I could probably just take it apart and see for myself, but
>> would like to determine cost effectiveness of getting a replacement
>> part and repairing myself, bringing to service technician, or just
>> getting a new one.
>
> How do you know the magnetron is bad, if you haven't even opened the unit
> yet?

How do you know that you're dead?

You just touched the 4kV terminal.

== 3 of 5 ==
Date: Fri, Apr 30 2010 2:05 pm
From: Cydrome Leader

ian field <gangprobing.alien@ntlworld.com> wrote:
>
> "Cydrome Leader" <presence@MUNGEpanix.com> wrote in message
> news:hrf5im$ko7$1@reader1.panix.com...
>> Yimin Rong <yiminrong@yahoo.ca> wrote:
>>> Greetings,
>>>
>>> Can someone tell me the part # of the magnetron for microwave oven
>>> Emerson MW9107WC?
>>>
>>> I know I could probably just take it apart and see for myself, but
>>> would like to determine cost effectiveness of getting a replacement
>>> part and repairing myself, bringing to service technician, or just
>>> getting a new one.
>>
>> How do you know the magnetron is bad, if you haven't even opened the unit
>> yet?
>
> How do you know that you're dead?
>
> You just touched the 4kV terminal.

just curious, have there been any microwave oven deaths recently?

I used to hear about them every year or so from trade newsletters, but
considering a microwave oven is throw away item these days, I'm guess less
people bother to even have them fixed in the first place.

== 4 of 5 ==
Date: Fri, Apr 30 2010 2:34 pm
From: "ian field"

"Cydrome Leader" <presence@MUNGEpanix.com> wrote in message
news:hrfgmg$ef5$1@reader1.panix.com...
> ian field <gangprobing.alien@ntlworld.com> wrote:
>>
>> "Cydrome Leader" <presence@MUNGEpanix.com> wrote in message
>> news:hrf5im$ko7$1@reader1.panix.com...
>>> Yimin Rong <yiminrong@yahoo.ca> wrote:
>>>> Greetings,
>>>>
>>>> Can someone tell me the part # of the magnetron for microwave oven
>>>> Emerson MW9107WC?
>>>>
>>>> I know I could probably just take it apart and see for myself, but
>>>> would like to determine cost effectiveness of getting a replacement
>>>> part and repairing myself, bringing to service technician, or just
>>>> getting a new one.
>>>
>>> How do you know the magnetron is bad, if you haven't even opened the
>>> unit
>>> yet?
>>
>> How do you know that you're dead?
>>
>> You just touched the 4kV terminal.
>
> just curious, have there been any microwave oven deaths recently?
>
> I used to hear about them every year or so from trade newsletters, but
> considering a microwave oven is throw away item these days, I'm guess less
> people bother to even have them fixed in the first place.

Maybe the message is getting through to people just how lethal the HT in a
microwave is, or as you say less people bother repairing them.

My microwave was found put outside someones door in the flats, when I tested
it I found the mains plug wired wrong (live case) it worked fine once the
plug had been re-wired and has been since quite a long time ago.

== 5 of 5 ==
Date: Fri, Apr 30 2010 6:00 pm
From: Cydrome Leader

ian field <gangprobing.alien@ntlworld.com> wrote:
>
> "Cydrome Leader" <presence@MUNGEpanix.com> wrote in message
> news:hrfgmg$ef5$1@reader1.panix.com...
>> ian field <gangprobing.alien@ntlworld.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> "Cydrome Leader" <presence@MUNGEpanix.com> wrote in message
>>> news:hrf5im$ko7$1@reader1.panix.com...
>>>> Yimin Rong <yiminrong@yahoo.ca> wrote:
>>>>> Greetings,
>>>>>
>>>>> Can someone tell me the part # of the magnetron for microwave oven
>>>>> Emerson MW9107WC?
>>>>>
>>>>> I know I could probably just take it apart and see for myself, but
>>>>> would like to determine cost effectiveness of getting a replacement
>>>>> part and repairing myself, bringing to service technician, or just
>>>>> getting a new one.
>>>>
>>>> How do you know the magnetron is bad, if you haven't even opened the
>>>> unit
>>>> yet?
>>>
>>> How do you know that you're dead?
>>>
>>> You just touched the 4kV terminal.
>>
>> just curious, have there been any microwave oven deaths recently?
>>
>> I used to hear about them every year or so from trade newsletters, but
>> considering a microwave oven is throw away item these days, I'm guess less
>> people bother to even have them fixed in the first place.
>
> Maybe the message is getting through to people just how lethal the HT in a
> microwave is, or as you say less people bother repairing them.
>
> My microwave was found put outside someones door in the flats, when I tested
> it I found the mains plug wired wrong (live case) it worked fine once the
> plug had been re-wired and has been since quite a long time ago.

I've noticed they use torx-ish screws on them these days, probably to
discourage people from opening them, but there's nothing other than the
standard warnings on them for any electronics you plug in. considering
they cost $99 these days, I don't see anybody other than people who used
to actually fix stuff trying to salvage one.

My made in 1981 Samsung still works, and somehow doesn't leak either.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Don't try this at home.
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/654bc359eac6fafb?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Fri, Apr 30 2010 12:17 pm
From: PlainBill47@yahoo.com

On Thu, 29 Apr 2010 12:40:51 -0700, "William Sommerwerck"
<grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote:

>>> Transmission lines are usually at a higher voltage.
>>> How did he step it down? For that matter, how did
>>> he connect it to his distribution box?
>
>> Agreed. Odd are he tapped into a neighborhood line.
>> Although 20 years ago the homeless people living
>> under the freeways in Miami, FL routinely tapped into
>> the 400 volt lines for the freeway lights.
>
>What 440V equipment did they connect this power to?
>
Reports had it they would use several techniques, including
transformers thaey had scavanged, heating elements from electric
stoves or dryers; basically anything they could find to reduce the
voltage.

PlainBill

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Oxidisation of Seagate & WDC PCBs
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/2242c6be34042a28?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Fri, Apr 30 2010 2:36 pm
From: Sergey Kubushyn

In sci.electronics.repair Sergey Kubushyn <ksi@koi8.net> wrote:

Just took a brand spanking new WD5000AAKS drive out of sealed bag with
silica gel and all that stuff. The PCB is all _SILVER_ plated, no gold. And
that silver is almost totally black right out of the bag.

> In sci.electronics.repair Arno <me@privacy.net> wrote:
>> In comp.sys.ibm.pc.hardware.storage Sergey Kubushyn <ksi@koi8.net> wrote:
>> [...]
>>>>> That suicide also can happen when some old file that was not accessed for
>>>>> ages is read. That attempt triggers the suicide chain.
>>>>
>>>> Yes, that makes sense. However you should do surface scans on
>>>> RAIDed disks regularly, e.g. by long SMART selftests. This will
>>>> catch weak sectors early and other degradation as well.
>>
>>> I know but I simply didn't think all 3 drives can fail... I thought I have
>>> enough redundancy because I put not 2 but 3 drives in that RAID1... And I
>>> did have something like a test with regular weekly full backup that reads
>>> all the files (not the entire disk media but at least all the files on it)
>>> and that was that backup that triggered disk suicide.
>>
>>> Anyway lesson learned and I'm taking additional measures now. It was not a
>>> very good experience loosing some of my work...
>>
>> Yes, I can imagine. I have my critical stuff also on a 3 way RAID1,
>> but with long SMART selftests every 2 weeks and 3 different drives,
>> two from WD and one from Samsung. One additional advantage of the
>> long SMART selftest is that with smartd you will get a warning
>> email on every failing test, i.e. one every two weeks. For additional
>> warning you can also run a daily short test, e.g..
>
> No matter what you do you can not prevent an occasional disaster :( One
> MUST remember that "backup" in not a noun but a verb in imperative.
>
>>> BTW, I took a look at brand new WDC WD5000YS-01MPB1 drives, right out of the
>>> sealed bags with silica gel and all 4 of those had their contacts already
>>> oxidized with a lot of black stuff. That makes me very suspicious that
>>> conspiracy theory might be not all that crazy--that oxidation seems to be
>>> pre-applied by the manufacturer.
>>
>> Urgh. These bags are airtight. No way the problem happened on your
>> side then. My two weeks old WD5000AADS-00S9B0 looks fine on the top
>> of the PCB. I think I will have a look underneath later.
>
> Those 4 were fine on the top of PCB. Black stuff was underneath, on those
> pads contacting with springy heads pins.

---
******************************************************************
* KSI@home KOI8 Net < > The impossible we do immediately. *
* Las Vegas NV, USA < > Miracles require 24-hour notice. *
******************************************************************

== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Fri, Apr 30 2010 4:57 pm
From: Arno

In comp.sys.ibm.pc.hardware.storage Sergey Kubushyn <ksi@koi8.net> wrote:
> In sci.electronics.repair Sergey Kubushyn <ksi@koi8.net> wrote:

> Just took a brand spanking new WD5000AAKS drive out of sealed bag with
> silica gel and all that stuff. The PCB is all _SILVER_ plated, no gold. And
> that silver is almost totally black right out of the bag.

Not good. Silver really is unsuitable for modern, low voltage,
electronics. The last WD disk I bought (a WD5000AADS, 500GB
Caviar Green) had mixed gold and silver plating and the
silver plating was completely fine, on both sides of the
PCB.

Something is fishy here.

Arno

>> In sci.electronics.repair Arno <me@privacy.net> wrote:
>>> In comp.sys.ibm.pc.hardware.storage Sergey Kubushyn <ksi@koi8.net> wrote:
>>> [...]
>>>>>> That suicide also can happen when some old file that was not accessed for
>>>>>> ages is read. That attempt triggers the suicide chain.
>>>>>
>>>>> Yes, that makes sense. However you should do surface scans on
>>>>> RAIDed disks regularly, e.g. by long SMART selftests. This will
>>>>> catch weak sectors early and other degradation as well.
>>>
>>>> I know but I simply didn't think all 3 drives can fail... I thought I have
>>>> enough redundancy because I put not 2 but 3 drives in that RAID1... And I
>>>> did have something like a test with regular weekly full backup that reads
>>>> all the files (not the entire disk media but at least all the files on it)
>>>> and that was that backup that triggered disk suicide.
>>>
>>>> Anyway lesson learned and I'm taking additional measures now. It was not a
>>>> very good experience loosing some of my work...
>>>
>>> Yes, I can imagine. I have my critical stuff also on a 3 way RAID1,
>>> but with long SMART selftests every 2 weeks and 3 different drives,
>>> two from WD and one from Samsung. One additional advantage of the
>>> long SMART selftest is that with smartd you will get a warning
>>> email on every failing test, i.e. one every two weeks. For additional
>>> warning you can also run a daily short test, e.g..
>>
>> No matter what you do you can not prevent an occasional disaster :( One
>> MUST remember that "backup" in not a noun but a verb in imperative.
>>
>>>> BTW, I took a look at brand new WDC WD5000YS-01MPB1 drives, right out of the
>>>> sealed bags with silica gel and all 4 of those had their contacts already
>>>> oxidized with a lot of black stuff. That makes me very suspicious that
>>>> conspiracy theory might be not all that crazy--that oxidation seems to be
>>>> pre-applied by the manufacturer.
>>>
>>> Urgh. These bags are airtight. No way the problem happened on your
>>> side then. My two weeks old WD5000AADS-00S9B0 looks fine on the top
>>> of the PCB. I think I will have a look underneath later.
>>
>> Those 4 were fine on the top of PCB. Black stuff was underneath, on those
>> pads contacting with springy heads pins.

> ---
> ******************************************************************
> * KSI@home KOI8 Net < > The impossible we do immediately. *
> * Las Vegas NV, USA < > Miracles require 24-hour notice. *
> ******************************************************************

--
Arno Wagner, Dr. sc. techn., Dipl. Inform., CISSP -- Email: arno@wagner.name
GnuPG: ID: 1E25338F FP: 0C30 5782 9D93 F785 E79C 0296 797F 6B50 1E25 338F
----
Cuddly UI's are the manifestation of wishful thinking. -- Dylan Evans

== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Fri, Apr 30 2010 9:06 pm
From: Jeff Liebermann

On 30 Apr 2010 23:57:32 GMT, Arno <me@privacy.net> wrote:

>In comp.sys.ibm.pc.hardware.storage Sergey Kubushyn <ksi@koi8.net> wrote:
>> In sci.electronics.repair Sergey Kubushyn <ksi@koi8.net> wrote:
>
>> Just took a brand spanking new WD5000AAKS drive out of sealed bag with
>> silica gel and all that stuff. The PCB is all _SILVER_ plated, no gold. And
>> that silver is almost totally black right out of the bag.
>
>Not good. Silver really is unsuitable for modern, low voltage,
>electronics. The last WD disk I bought (a WD5000AADS, 500GB
>Caviar Green) had mixed gold and silver plating and the
>silver plating was completely fine, on both sides of the
>PCB.

I just removed the PCB from a WD200EB-75CSF0 20GB drive. Tin plating
on both the PCB contacts and the mating pin array going into the HDA
assembly. No gold or silver.

However, there's one extra item that hasn't entered the discussion.
There was a sheet of foam something between the PCB and the HDA. In
this case, it was quite clean and dry, but it wouldn't take much for
most any liquid to get absorbed by the foam and rot out the board.
There was a cut-out hole around the connector area, so there was no
common points of contact, but it was close enough that any volatiles
would certainly enter the connector area.

--
# Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D Santa Cruz CA 95060
# 831-336-2558
# http://802.11junk.com jeffl@cruzio.com
# http://www.LearnByDestroying.com AE6KS

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Back Soon ... :-)
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/f4ddb2d78412b097?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Fri, Apr 30 2010 5:37 pm
From: "Arfa Daily"

Off to catch me some rays for a coupla weeks in a few hours. d:-))

Catch y'all when I get back !

Arfa

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