sci.electronics.repair - 25 new messages in 6 topics - digest

sci.electronics.repair
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair?hl=en

sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Today's topics:

* Output transformer ambiguity - 3 messages, 3 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/b4d4e3e6c8232295?hl=en
* Batteries That Do Not Leak w/Age? - 9 messages, 9 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/fd55784ea36aafe5?hl=en
* older motherboard with intel chipset - 8 messages, 4 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/0e3adf44e483f1ab?hl=en
* Sony KV27EXR20 Sound no picture - 2 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/41a66d907546cb08?hl=en
* Are all IR emitter heads transparent to IR light? - 2 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/4953a0bce8e05d0e?hl=en
* nike air max 95 shoes, adidas kids tracksuits, gucci boots,paul&shark t-
shirts - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/92c6e9c29b0a13b0?hl=en

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Output transformer ambiguity
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/b4d4e3e6c8232295?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Sat, Nov 27 2010 12:41 am
From: "N_Cook"

I would go for shorted turns on the "900" ohm one especially if heating and
knocking fails to show any variation. Shorted turns tend to be "welded"
together . I only have test data for the EL80 but 25mA per pentode and
looking at some Premier Tx data for range of use 7 watt to 60W, DC of HT
side ranging from 1500 to 16000 ohm so 4000 ohm seems more likely.
What is the physical dimensions of your ones?

== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Sat, Nov 27 2010 12:35 pm
From: David Nebenzahl

On 11/25/2010 5:22 PM Phil Allison spake thus:

>>>> Wouldn't it be possible to have an original 4000ohm shorted to 900ohm
>>>> too?
>>>
>>> ** No.
>>>
>>> The ratio between rated primary Z and winding resistance is never less
>>> than 5:1 and is typically 10:1 or more.
>>
>> You may have a point there.
>>
>> OK, let's climb down into N. Cook's pit of bodgery and post mortem
>> analysis and look at this.
>>
>> It all depends on the expected failure mode of a transformer, correct? Two
>> main possibilities here: open windings, or shorted windings (or I suppose
>> a combination). Obviously not an open winding, so probably shorted ones.
>
> ** Shame about the third and most likely scenario - one that makes the
> primary R go way high.
>
> Think " vertigris " .....

You mean *verdigris*.

So that could happen if the insulation got nicked and moisture gets in,
corroding the wire. How does that work? Narrow the wire and increase the
resistance (eventually causing an open)?

--
The fashion in killing has an insouciant, flirty style this spring,
with the flaunting of well-defined muscle, wrapped in flags.

- Comment from an article on Antiwar.com (http://antiwar.com)

== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Sat, Nov 27 2010 3:30 pm
From: "Phil Allison"

"David Nebenzahl"
Phil Allison
>
>> ** Shame about the third and most likely scenario - one that makes the
>> primary R go way high.
>>
>> Think " vertigris " .....
>
> You mean *verdigris*.
>
> So that could happen if the insulation got nicked and moisture gets in,
> corroding the wire. How does that work? Narrow the wire and increase the
> resistance (eventually causing an open)?

** Can happen any number of ways including at the termination points of the
enamelled wire where it is soldered to a flying lead. Solder flux is then
the trigger and moisture from the air can get to it.

The high resistance is because for some small distance, conduction is via
the verdigris.

.... Phil

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Batteries That Do Not Leak w/Age?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/fd55784ea36aafe5?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 9 ==
Date: Sat, Nov 27 2010 3:47 am
From: "William Sommerwerck"

Experiences vary, but I've had Duracells leak and damage two items.
(Duracell was very good about fixing one of the items.) Some have had the
opposite experience, having trouble with Energizers and not with Duracells,
but the majority of leaks seem to be from Duracells. I will not purchase
Duracells. and use them only if they .

When I say "leak", I mean liquid coming out of the cell. I'm not talking
about the solid deposits that sometimes appear with any alkaline cell.

For AA cells, get Costco Kirkland, made by Hitachi. They're cheap (25 cents
each) and have reasonably good capacity. I've used them for several years
and have no complaints.

If you use the flashlight often, get some high-capacity NiMH C cells and a
charger. The higher-capacity NiMH cells have a capacity equal to or greater
than a disposable cell, so their cost is quickly recouped with items you use
a lot.

== 2 of 9 ==
Date: Sat, Nov 27 2010 5:29 am
From: "Mark Zacharias"

"Trevor Wilson" <trevor@rageaudio.com.au> wrote in message
news:8lbok1FqdfU1@mid.individual.net...
> (PeteCresswell) wrote:
>> Is there any such thing as an alkaline battery that does not leak
>> with age?
>>
>> I just had my second episode of Mallory Duracells gooping up a
>> flashlight.
>>
>> If the answer is "no", can anybody venture a proactive
>> replacement interval for size "C" cells?
>
> **Yep, although the answer is probably not going to help you all that
> much. Back in 1986, I purchased a JVC TV set. The remote control came
> fitted with three JVC branded alkaline batteries (AA size). I finally
> handed the set over to a family member back in 2000. I figured I should
> check the batteries, even though the remote worked fine. Sure enough, the
> batteries weren't leaking, but the cell Volts had fallen to less than 1
> Volt in each. A new set of cells and I handed the set over.
>
> JVC alkalines rule!
>
> I've never seen another JVC branded alkaline.
>
>
> --
> Trevor Wilson
> www.rageaudio.com.au
>

I recently acquired a Micronta 22-206 FET multimeter dating from 1975.
It was in it's box with packing, the controls were seized but responded to
lubrication, and the original 1975 batteries were still there. A "C" cell
and a 9v battery, both Radio Shack's brand, dead as a doornail, but NO
leakage.
They were pristine. Boy, did I feel lucky that day.

Mark Z.

== 3 of 9 ==
Date: Sat, Nov 27 2010 7:53 am
From: "(PeteCresswell)"

Per Jeff Liebermann:
>
>How old were the batteries?

Dunno, but now I am going to start putting a strip of electrical
tape on each device and writing the battery date on it.

With that in place, I think 12-month replacement sounds
reasonable. I'm not going for the last dime, just want the thing
to work when I need it.
--
PeteCresswell

== 4 of 9 ==
Date: Sat, Nov 27 2010 10:23 am
From: Meat Plow

On Fri, 26 Nov 2010 21:01:43 -0500, (PeteCresswell) wrote:

> Is there any such thing as an alkaline battery that does not leak with
> age?
>
> I just had my second episode of Mallory Duracells gooping up a
> flashlight.
>
> If the answer is "no", can anybody venture a proactive replacement
> interval for size "C" cells?

Duracell is notorious for leaks. I've pounded out a couple from my two 3D
cell lights before switching to Energizer.

--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse

== 5 of 9 ==
Date: Sat, Nov 27 2010 10:24 am
From: "Geoffrey S. Mendelson"

(PeteCresswell) wrote:
> Is there any such thing as an alkaline battery that does not leak
> with age?
>
> I just had my second episode of Mallory Duracells gooping up a
> flashlight.
>
> If the answer is "no", can anybody venture a proactive
> replacement interval for size "C" cells?

Does anyone still sell 10 year shelf life lithium cells?

Do they actually last that long?

Geoff.
--
Geoffrey S. Mendelson N3OWJ/4X1GM
Those who cannot remember the past are condemned to misquote it.

== 6 of 9 ==
Date: Sat, Nov 27 2010 10:28 am
From: Jeff Liebermann

On Sat, 27 Nov 2010 10:53:18 -0500, "(PeteCresswell)" <x@y.Invalid>
wrote:

>Per Jeff Liebermann:
>>
>>How old were the batteries?
>
>Dunno, but now I am going to start putting a strip of electrical
>tape on each device and writing the battery date on it.

Umm... it's kinda difficult to scribble on electrical tape. I suggest
a stick on address label instead.

>With that in place, I think 12-month replacement sounds
>reasonable. I'm not going for the last dime, just want the thing
>to work when I need it.

When the site comes back up, you might want to dig through:
<http://www.candlepowerforums.com>
Most of the users in that forum make their own flashlights (and
bicycle lights) because the commercial stuff is either overpriced or
not very reliable.

Note: The 5 year battery cycle time is my guess and may not reflect
reality. I'll ask the local emergency services people what they
consider to be reasonable.

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

== 7 of 9 ==
Date: Sat, Nov 27 2010 11:05 am
From: Pilgrim

In article <pan.2010.11.27.18.23.03@lmao.lol.lol>,
Meat Plow <mhywatt@yahoo.com> wrote:

> On Fri, 26 Nov 2010 21:01:43 -0500, (PeteCresswell) wrote:
>
> > Is there any such thing as an alkaline battery that does not leak with
> > age?
> >
> > I just had my second episode of Mallory Duracells gooping up a
> > flashlight.
> >
> > If the answer is "no", can anybody venture a proactive replacement
> > interval for size "C" cells?
>
> Duracell is notorious for leaks. I've pounded out a couple from my two 3D
> cell lights before switching to Energizer.

I don't think any of the popular brands are better or worse than the
other. My experience has been just the opposite of of the above poster.
I use Duracells almost exclusively because I have had nothing but
trouble with Energizers. So you make your choice and make periodic
checks on your devices. Yes a PIA.

Chuck P.

== 8 of 9 ==
Date: Sat, Nov 27 2010 11:36 am
From: "Wild_Bill"

The labelling of batteries in battery operated devices may seem like
obsessive behavior to many, but I've been doing it for years.
I typically place a bit of pressure sensitive adhesive/self-stick paper
label on or inside a battery cover, or write a month/year directly on one of
the batteries with a Sharpie marker.

The paper label can hold several dates before it needs replaced, or erase a
previous date if marked in pencil.

I'll replace batteries in flashlights and test meters/equipment after a
year, even if they're not low, and put a piece of tape over the terminals of
a 9V, or put AAA, AAs and others in a small zip-close bag, keeping sets
together.. then use those previously used batteries for temporary use of
checking other devices (after quickly checking them with a tester).

I also label my rechargeable power tool batteries, so I can see the last
time they were charged.
Any time I notice that they haven't had a recent charge, I'll refresh their
charge and remark 'em.

It's not a big deal, after one gets used to marking things regularly.. at
least it eliminates all the guessing.

--
Cheers,
WB
.............

"(PeteCresswell)" <x@y.Invalid> wrote in message
news:39a2f69ambb3uh9iqcpoq7e0i0iusujluj@4ax.com...
> Per Jeff Liebermann:
>>
>>How old were the batteries?
>
> Dunno, but now I am going to start putting a strip of electrical
> tape on each device and writing the battery date on it.
>
> With that in place, I think 12-month replacement sounds
> reasonable. I'm not going for the last dime, just want the thing
> to work when I need it.
> --
> PeteCresswell

== 9 of 9 ==
Date: Sat, Nov 27 2010 3:52 pm
From: Jim Yanik

"Geoffrey S. Mendelson" <gsm@mendelson.com> wrote in
news:slrnif2ivc.8c9.gsm@cable.mendelson.com:

> (PeteCresswell) wrote:
>> Is there any such thing as an alkaline battery that does not leak
>> with age?
>>
>> I just had my second episode of Mallory Duracells gooping up a
>> flashlight.
>>
>> If the answer is "no", can anybody venture a proactive
>> replacement interval for size "C" cells?
>
> Does anyone still sell 10 year shelf life lithium cells?
>
> Do they actually last that long?
>
> Geoff.

the 123 cells I got from Surefire have not leaked in over 8 years.
marked with an Exp date of 5-2013.
I have no idea who makes them for Surefire.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
localnet
dot com

==============================================================================
TOPIC: older motherboard with intel chipset
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/0e3adf44e483f1ab?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 8 ==
Date: Sat, Nov 27 2010 4:42 am
From: mike

baron wrote:

>
> It shouldn't be any different to any other M/B !
>
> --
> Best Regards:
> Baron.

Well, I'm not sure why I had no luck trying to install xp pro with an
oem disc, it just seemed to be in an endless loop where I'd start the
install, then the machine would reboot and put me right back at square
one - did this several times. Then I loaded a bios update, and tried
to get infinst.exe (chipset drivers) to run, with no success and
finally dug up the emachine restore discs and found that that
installed a working system (just probably one that I can't get
activated).

I have since put in a Live cd with an older ubuntu on it, and it seems
to run that fine, so I spose this will make an ok linux box.

One thing I'm curious about, after several iterations of installing xp
is that sometimes I'd have to enter at least one user's name, and
sometimes I wouldn't, I found that with an oem disc and also with the
restore discs - doesn't really matter, just seems odd to not be
consistent while I'm fairly certain that I did the exact same thing
during th installation.

Anyway, thanks to every one for your suggestions and comments, I think
I'll check out one of the newer linux
packages mentioned.

Mike

== 2 of 8 ==
Date: Sat, Nov 27 2010 5:01 am
From: mike

Wild_Bill wrote:
> Backtracking.. first of all, I never expect used equipment to operate
> perfectly, much less when I encounter something that was discarded (found in
> a dump/ster).

I'm a dumpster diver from way back, it's amazing what good stuff can
be found from time to time
>
> I dunno if the BB store label was an indication that the unit was a customer
> return that couldn't be/wasn't economically practical to try to figue out,
> or that it was just a BB store product that some customer threw away.
>

I suspect it was tossed as being too costly/out of date to repair,
either by BB or by the owner after he got it back from BB - it had no
memory no PSU and no hard drive but I had spares that I could plug in
to check it out with.

> When used equipment does turn out to be fully functional (as it often does),
> that's just a bonus.
>
> Someone had already decided that it was trash, so expectations of it working
> properly could be unrealistic, you see.

Turned out good this time though, I seem always to be riding the
trailing edge of technology so I don't really mind too bad that none
of my puters are newer than 5 or six years old.
>
> Whe I mentioned a linux Live CD, I was referring to the linux OS not being
> installed, just run Live as thay will often do, from the CD drive (as almost
> all m-bds now boot from the CD).
> A HDD isn't even required.
>
> Some linux Live versions will be more favorable with certain types of system
> hardware.
> Several years ago, I bought about 12 different flavors of linux OSs, most of
> 'em Live CDs (cheap, from from an eBay'er). I know they can be downloaded
> for "free" from numerous websites but I was on dialup service at the time.
>
> Try a couple/few different linux Live CDs (no HDD or any other unneeded
> stuff), if there are problems with all attempts, there's very likely
> something wrong with the m-bd.
>
I did and it seems to work fine, thanks for the suggestion

> --
> Cheers,
> WB

Mike

== 3 of 8 ==
Date: Sat, Nov 27 2010 6:59 am
From: "Wild_Bill"

Congrats on the good save.. persistence often brings rewards.
Yep, I keep telling folks that the U.S. is the land of surplus, where there
is more used and also new surplus stuff just laying around than many folks
can imagine.

I know about riding on the trailing edge.. I still do that, too. It's
generally a very inexpensive way to follow ones' various interests, finding
lots of cheaper stuff along the way.

--
Cheers,
WB
.............

"mike" <mlightner@survivormail.com> wrote in message
news:a1caf858-3cc3-4277-9f6c-fa506e83ef00@30g2000yql.googlegroups.com...
>
> I'm a dumpster diver from way back, it's amazing what good stuff can
> be found from time to time
>>
>
> I suspect it was tossed as being too costly/out of date to repair,
> either by BB or by the owner after he got it back from BB - it had no
> memory no PSU and no hard drive but I had spares that I could plug in
> to check it out with.
>
> Turned out good this time though, I seem always to be riding the
> trailing edge of technology so I don't really mind too bad that none
> of my puters are newer than 5 or six years old.
>>
>> Try a couple/few different linux Live CDs (no HDD or any other unneeded
>> stuff), if there are problems with all attempts, there's very likely
>> something wrong with the m-bd.
>>
> I did and it seems to work fine, thanks for the suggestion
>
>> --
>> Cheers,
>> WB
>
> Mike

== 4 of 8 ==
Date: Sat, Nov 27 2010 8:11 am
From: Adrian C

On 27/11/2010 12:42, mike wrote:
>
> Well, I'm not sure why I had no luck trying to install xp pro with an
> oem disc, it just seemed to be in an endless loop where I'd start the
> install, then the machine would reboot and put me right back at square
> one - did this several times.

Probably a daft question, but...

What is the device boot order set to in the BIOS? When the OS is
installed and it reboots for the first time, the priority should be to
the booting from hard drive - not the CD!

--
Adrian C

== 5 of 8 ==
Date: Sat, Nov 27 2010 8:30 am
From: Baron

mike Inscribed thus:

>
>
> baron wrote:
>
>>
>> It shouldn't be any different to any other M/B !
>>
>> --
>> Best Regards:
>> Baron.
>
> Well, I'm not sure why I had no luck trying to install xp pro with an
> oem disc, it just seemed to be in an endless loop where I'd start the
> install, then the machine would reboot and put me right back at square
> one - did this several times. Then I loaded a bios update, and tried
> to get infinst.exe (chipset drivers) to run, with no success and
> finally dug up the emachine restore discs and found that that
> installed a working system (just probably one that I can't get
> activated).

Some of the older mainboards have timing problems. The machine
manufacturer patches the install to suit. As you have found BIOS
updates can markedly change the behavior of the board.

> I have since put in a Live cd with an older ubuntu on it, and it seems
> to run that fine, so I spose this will make an ok linux box.

If you look carefully at the Linux boot log you might see notes refering
to "buggy this or that" or "workaround xxx". This can often give clues
to the odd behavior when trying to install from a retail/OEM Win disk.
Though Wins does a similar thing leaving a file on the drive to tell the
next install attempt to "avoid" or "do this" this time around.

> One thing I'm curious about, after several iterations of installing xp
> is that sometimes I'd have to enter at least one user's name, and
> sometimes I wouldn't, I found that with an oem disc and also with the
> restore discs - doesn't really matter, just seems odd to not be
> consistent while I'm fairly certain that I did the exact same thing
> during th installation.

See previous para !

> Anyway, thanks to every one for your suggestions and comments, I think
> I'll check out one of the newer linux packages mentioned.
>
> Mike

I've used Linux for years without any problems ! In fact it is probably
the best diagnostics tool you could have. Try exploring a Windows
machine from Linux ! You might be surprised at what you find
squirreled away in there.

--
Best Regards:
Baron.

== 6 of 8 ==
Date: Sat, Nov 27 2010 1:35 pm
From: mike

Adrian C wrote:

> Probably a daft question, but...
>
> What is the device boot order set to in the BIOS? When the OS is
> installed and it reboots for the first time, the priority should be to
> the booting from hard drive - not the CD!
>
> --
> Adrian C

Lazy guy that I am, I leave the cd-rom set to boot first and just make
sure there's no cd in the drive when
it's time to reboot.

Mike

== 7 of 8 ==
Date: Sat, Nov 27 2010 2:25 pm
From: mike

Baron wrote:

>
> Some of the older mainboards have timing problems. The machine
> manufacturer patches the install to suit. As you have found BIOS
> updates can markedly change the behavior of the board.

That makes sense...
>
> > I have since put in a Live cd with an older ubuntu on it, and it seems
> > to run that fine, so I spose this will make an ok linux box.
>
> If you look carefully at the Linux boot log you might see notes refering
> to "buggy this or that" or "workaround xxx". This can often give clues
> to the odd behavior when trying to install from a retail/OEM Win disk.
> Though Wins does a similar thing leaving a file on the drive to tell the
> next install attempt to "avoid" or "do this" this time around.

Excellent suggestion, I'm gonna have to reacquaint myself with where
the logs are, and get familiar what 'normal' logs look like.
>
> > One thing I'm curious about, after several iterations of installing xp
> > is that sometimes I'd have to enter at least one user's name, and
> > sometimes I wouldn't, I found that with an oem disc and also with the
> > restore discs - doesn't really matter, just seems odd to not be
> > consistent while I'm fairly certain that I did the exact same thing
> > during th installation.
>
> See previous para !
>
Thanks for the tips,

Mike

== 8 of 8 ==
Date: Sat, Nov 27 2010 3:02 pm
From: Baron

mike Inscribed thus:

>
>
> Adrian C wrote:
>
>> Probably a daft question, but...
>>
>> What is the device boot order set to in the BIOS? When the OS is
>> installed and it reboots for the first time, the priority should be
>> to the booting from hard drive - not the CD!
>>
>> --
>> Adrian C
>
> Lazy guy that I am, I leave the cd-rom set to boot first and just make
> sure there's no cd in the drive when
> it's time to reboot.
>
> Mike

Thats a pretty standard thing ! CD first, then USB/revmovable devices,
then HDD. Unless you need it, disable "Boot from network" !

--
Best Regards:
Baron.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Sony KV27EXR20 Sound no picture
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/41a66d907546cb08?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Sat, Nov 27 2010 6:11 am
From: nucleus

remove degauss thermistor, if cycling stops, replace thermistor.

On Nov 26, 8:23 pm, mnpinball <mnpinb...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> After looking at some other posts of the same problem, I also left the
> TV on for a few minutes and the picture comes up. BUT, the picture
> goes on then off and cycles like this every 2 seconds constantly.
>
> Any help is appreciated.

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Sat, Nov 27 2010 4:40 pm
From: Chuck

On Fri, 26 Nov 2010 18:23:59 -0800 (PST), mnpinball
<mnpinball@yahoo.com> wrote:

>After looking at some other posts of the same problem, I also left the
>TV on for a few minutes and the picture comes up. BUT, the picture
>goes on then off and cycles like this every 2 seconds constantly.
>
>Any help is appreciated.
>
>
Raise the screen voltage. The crt is going bad but it might work ok
for a year or two. Chuck

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Are all IR emitter heads transparent to IR light?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/4953a0bce8e05d0e?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Sat, Nov 27 2010 11:36 am
From: Tim

In article <n8k0f6l0sc345ddhqfbbh4cuv6uj2uhfi6@4ax.com>, NOPSAMmm2005
@bigfoot.com says...
> Are all IR emitter heads transparent to IR light from a separate
> remote control.
>
> The one I bought has a translucent red plastic head but doesn't say it
> is, but another one does say so. Is the second one just better at
> marketing?
>
> Online I bought a 3-headed IR emitter, like is used when the AV
> equipment is kept in a cabinet, and I was very happy.
>
> Then I looked at another one and it said " They're made of material
> that's transparent to IR light, so commands can still pass directly to
> individual components if desired."
>
>
> Details.
> This is a PREMIUM IR Extender Hidden Infrared Repeater System Kit and
> its description includes: "The 4 emitters included can control many
> different A/V devices. They're made of material that's transparent to
> IR light, so commands can still pass directly to individual components
> if desired. You may stick the emitter over the IR emitter on each
> component, or place on the shelf in front of the component if you
> prefer - they're powerful enough to get the signal to the component."
>
> But when you click on the emitter, which is sold separately also, it
> says none of this!
> http://www.cmple.com/p-209-dual-ir-emitter-mini-stick-on-infrared-emitters-blink-eye.aspx
>
> I hope they are all IR-transparent like this one, especially the one I
> bought an hour ago. To work with the Leapfrom or whatever I end up
> with.
>
>

I have a repeater system that uses one of those donut shaped things. It
has a hole in the center to allow outside IR through it, and the pumped
in IR signal is offset from the centre hole to allow outside IR in, but
close enough to emit IR into the device the donut is attached to.

The one you are using seem to have the usual opaque red plastic that is
common in IR remotes, so I suspect they will indeed pass IR with no
problem.

- Tim -

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Sat, Nov 27 2010 2:48 pm
From: mm

On Sat, 27 Nov 2010 15:36:44 -0400, Tim <tim@tim.tim> wrote:

>In article <n8k0f6l0sc345ddhqfbbh4cuv6uj2uhfi6@4ax.com>, NOPSAMmm2005
>@bigfoot.com says...
>> Are all IR emitter heads transparent to IR light from a separate
>> remote control.
>>
>> The one I bought has a translucent red plastic head but doesn't say it
>> is, but another one does say so. Is the second one just better at
>> marketing?
>>
>> Online I bought a 3-headed IR emitter, like is used when the AV
>> equipment is kept in a cabinet, and I was very happy.
>>
>> Then I looked at another one and it said " They're made of material
>> that's transparent to IR light, so commands can still pass directly to
>> individual components if desired."
>>
>>
>> Details.
>> This is a PREMIUM IR Extender Hidden Infrared Repeater System Kit and
>> its description includes: "The 4 emitters included can control many
>> different A/V devices. They're made of material that's transparent to
>> IR light, so commands can still pass directly to individual components
>> if desired. You may stick the emitter over the IR emitter on each
>> component, or place on the shelf in front of the component if you
>> prefer - they're powerful enough to get the signal to the component."
>>
>> But when you click on the emitter, which is sold separately also, it
>> says none of this!
>> http://www.cmple.com/p-209-dual-ir-emitter-mini-stick-on-infrared-emitters-blink-eye.aspx
>>
>> I hope they are all IR-transparent like this one, especially the one I
>> bought an hour ago. To work with the Leapfrom or whatever I end up
>> with.
>>
>>
>
>I have a repeater system that uses one of those donut shaped things. It
>has a hole in the center to allow outside IR through it, and the pumped
>in IR signal is offset from the centre hole to allow outside IR in, but
>close enough to emit IR into the device the donut is attached to.
>
>The one you are using seem to have the usual opaque red plastic that is
>common in IR remotes, so I suspect they will indeed pass IR with no
>problem.

Great. I too think it's just better advertising to put this in ad,
but it was ironic (is that the right word?) to see the better ad
within an hour after buying the other one.

Also, just a few minutes after my OP here, it occurred to me, and I
felt like an idiot for posting, that the plastic *must* let IR pass,
because it has to let the IR from its own light pass. It's only 1/4
to 1/3 the distance, but still.

>- Tim -

And then installing it, it had a 3.5mm plug and Leapfrog 5 has a 2.5mm
jack, so I looked in my container of adapters and by golly I had just
what I need. But when I held the red thing in front of the DVDR, it
didn't work. After moving it around, trying the other two heads, etc.
I was stuck until I thought to measure the resistance of the thing.
It was near 0. When I unplugged the adapter, its resistance was
infinite, but the resistance of the emitter was moderately high. It
was ONLY when I plugged the emitter into the adapter that there was a
short, in the adapter. Which is metal and won't come apart without a
saw, afaict. I think I paid retail for this. I wonder how many
others they made that drove people crazy.

So today I found I had a 2.5 plug with some wire on it, and an in-line
3.5 jack, and now its working.

It works in a lot of locations. I have to find the DVDR manual to be
sure of the best place to stick it.

And then the question is, what will the range of the Leapfrog be? If
it's not enough, I'll get the Powermid pyramid that William likes, and
I'll still need the emitter I worked on today.

Thanks a lot, Tim, and everyone from the previous thread.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: nike air max 95 shoes, adidas kids tracksuits, gucci boots,paul&shark t-
shirts
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/92c6e9c29b0a13b0?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sat, Nov 27 2010 2:04 pm
From: john hao

==============================================================================

You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "sci.electronics.repair"
group.

To post to this group, visit http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair?hl=en

To unsubscribe from this group, send email to sci.electronics.repair+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com

To change the way you get mail from this group, visit:
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/subscribe?hl=en

To report abuse, send email explaining the problem to abuse@googlegroups.com

==============================================================================
Google Groups: http://groups.google.com/?hl=en

Electronics

sci.electronics.repair - 25 new messages in 6 topics - digest

No Response to "sci.electronics.repair - 25 new messages in 6 topics - digest"

Post a Comment

Blog Roll

Blog Archive