sci.electronics.repair
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair?hl=en

sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Today's topics:

* Bet the arsehole has big gaps between his front teeth - 9 messages, 8
authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/4ba61bf6e43fdd52?hl=en
* Fuse for motor protection? - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/4aa544fb8b4b8aa0?hl=en
* Truth brand electrolytic capacitors - 5 messages, 4 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/024736b296c3838f?hl=en
* Does this T-Mobile/LG smartphone carrier unlock code ever expire? - 3
messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/4272d6a61f9f8866?hl=en
* Why are headphone jacks for computers and handsets different diameters than
cellphones? - 5 messages, 5 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/3b636d8ab09f744a?hl=en
* SEO Company in Chicago - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/6b67046831b3f7ad?hl=en
* ST semi - CHN063AB. - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/934703eab0781f8b?hl=en
* JVC manual, anyone ... ? - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/63cc42e35c291b74?hl=en

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Bet the arsehole has big gaps between his front teeth
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/4ba61bf6e43fdd52?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 9 ==
Date: Mon, Feb 17 2014 5:31 am
From: T i m


On Tue, 18 Feb 2014 00:14:31 +1100, "Phil Allison" <phil_a@tpg.com.au>
wrote:

<snip BS and bluster>

>> It doesn't matter that you neither understand the question or have a
>> solution Phil.
>
>** But I do get the question.
>
>If I knew how to make visible red LEDs work for remote control of domestic
>appliances - the very last thing I would do is post that info on usenet or
>anywhere else.
>
>Cos it would be worth a fortune.

You are way too late mate:

http://news.cnet.com/2300-11386_3-10012385.html

It matters not (in principal) if the light source was an incandescent
lamp or an LED. The only thing an incandescent lamp would do is limit
the frequency of any coding due to the thermal mass of the filament.

Oh, and 'remote control' using visible light has be used for centuries
(beacons, Aldis lamps etc).

You are very welcome. ;-)

Cheers, T i m




== 2 of 9 ==
Date: Mon, Feb 17 2014 5:39 am
From: "Phil Allison"



"T i m"

** I KNOW this fucking arsehole has big gaps between his front teeth.

>
>>> It doesn't matter that you neither understand the question or have a
>>> solution Phil.
>>
>>** But I do get the question.
>>
>>If I knew how to make visible red LEDs work for remote control of domestic
>>appliances - the very last thing I would do is post that info on usenet
>>or
>>anywhere else.
>>
>>Cos it would be worth a fortune.
>
> You are way too late mate:
>
> http://news.cnet.com/2300-11386_3-10012385.html


** ROTFLMAO !!!!

No LEDs, no fancy IR remote functions and no relevance.

Lunatics like this POS troll are a dime a dozen.


FYI:

Fuck off and DIE - you retarded, pommy cunt.




.... Phil









== 3 of 9 ==
Date: Mon, Feb 17 2014 7:30 am
From: "William Sommerwerck"


I believe I can manage both.

Because a red photon has more energy than an IR photon, the IR sensor would
likely respond to the red light from the "other" remote. So, no, you couldn't
easily isolate them.

You'd probably need fairly sharp optical bandpass filters. Is it worth the
trouble?





== 4 of 9 ==
Date: Mon, Feb 17 2014 8:08 am
From: N_Cook


On 17/02/2014 10:41, T i m wrote:
> Hi All,
>
> We have recently gained a second set top box / personal video recorder
> and they are both (technically) the same. The problem then is the two
> remotes affect both units (as they are used independently).
>
> Now, I was wondering if I was to replace one remote TX LED with a
> visible red LED and possibly put a visible red optical grade filter
> over the matching STB, would / should that be enough to isolate the
> two systems?
>
> The visible red system is used very close so range shouldn't be a
> problem.
>
> Would I also need a IR 'pass' filter on the IR remote and STB to
> filter out any of the visible red signals?
>
> Failing that (or the use of some polarising filters which I've got but
> don't want to cut up if there is a technical reason why it won't work)
> I could just make one remote 'wired' by putting the TX LED inside the
> actual STB.
>
> Thanks for your time etc. ;-)
>
> Cheers, T i m
>
> p.s. These are Topfield TF58000PVRs and whilst I think there are some
> taps that are supposed to allow some sort of dual use, I've not worked
> out what is required and it looks like you would need a second remote
> (and to re program it) in any case.
>

I've got round this problem by using a small angled black rubber tube
glued at an angle over the sensor of the little used unit . Then have to
hold its remote above head and directed down but it works around the
problem.




== 5 of 9 ==
Date: Mon, Feb 17 2014 8:33 am
From: Adrian C


On 17/02/2014 10:41, T i m wrote:
> Hi All,
>
> We have recently gained a second set top box / personal video recorder
> and they are both (technically) the same. The problem then is the two
> remotes affect both units (as they are used independently).
>
> Now, I was wondering if I was to replace one remote TX LED with a
> visible red LED and possibly put a visible red optical grade filter
> over the matching STB, would / should that be enough to isolate the
> two systems?

You could build a very small and cheap single transistor radio TX/RX
channel for one of the remotes, replacing the optics?

Or similar with ultrasonic transducers?

--
Adrian C







== 6 of 9 ==
Date: Mon, Feb 17 2014 4:11 pm
From: T i m


On Mon, 17 Feb 2014 16:33:10 +0000, Adrian C <email@here.invalid>
wrote:

>On 17/02/2014 10:41, T i m wrote:
>> Hi All,
>>
>> We have recently gained a second set top box / personal video recorder
>> and they are both (technically) the same. The problem then is the two
>> remotes affect both units (as they are used independently).
>>
>> Now, I was wondering if I was to replace one remote TX LED with a
>> visible red LED and possibly put a visible red optical grade filter
>> over the matching STB, would / should that be enough to isolate the
>> two systems?

Firstly, thanks to all you have replied so far.
>
>You could build a very small and cheap single transistor radio TX/RX
>channel for one of the remotes, replacing the optics?

Funnily enough I thought that one out loud when talking to the
SIL_to_be about it earlier.
>
>Or similar with ultrasonic transducers?

Yup .... basically anything that isn't going to interfere with the IR
signal but could still be modulated.

However, whilst any / all of the thoughts and suggestions of keeping
it 'remote' are good, ITRW I'm not sure I'd ever get round to actually
implementing them, whereas I might actually get round to simply making
the remote 'wired'.

A second IRTX placed inside the second unit with the external window
covered with black tape. The IR TX LED(?) wired via a 3.5mm jack
socket and similar on the remote (the switch on the socket isolating
the internal TX). She's sitting right next to her Topfield anyway so
it being wired really would be any disadvantage. Removing the lead
and the tape reverts it back as std?

I'll just have to see how much room there is in the remote.

Cheers, T i m







== 7 of 9 ==
Date: Mon, Feb 17 2014 6:50 pm
From: "Klaatu"


"T i m" <news@spaced.me.uk> wrote in message
news:03p3g9t86lkobhm06e9hpcb1p98hvemfip@4ax.com...
> Hi All,
>
> We have recently gained a second set top box / personal video recorder
> and they are both (technically) the same. The problem then is the two
> remotes affect both units (as they are used independently).
>
> Now, I was wondering if I was to replace one remote TX LED with a
> visible red LED and possibly put a visible red optical grade filter
> over the matching STB, would / should that be enough to isolate the
> two systems?
>
> The visible red system is used very close so range shouldn't be a
> problem.
>
> Would I also need a IR 'pass' filter on the IR remote and STB to
> filter out any of the visible red signals?
>
> Failing that (or the use of some polarising filters which I've got but
> don't want to cut up if there is a technical reason why it won't work)
> I could just make one remote 'wired' by putting the TX LED inside the
> actual STB.
>
> Thanks for your time etc. ;-)
>
> Cheers, T i m
>
> p.s. These are Topfield TF58000PVRs and whilst I think there are some
> taps that are supposed to allow some sort of dual use, I've not worked
> out what is required and it looks like you would need a second remote
> (and to re program it) in any case.


And the owners manual or Google don't come up with anything about changing
the remote address?


---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.
http://www.avast.com





== 8 of 9 ==
Date: Tues, Feb 18 2014 5:32 am
From: mjb@signal11.invalid (Mike)


In article <dYqdnVo4evEBV5_OnZ2dnUVZ5oWdnZ2d@giganews.com>,
Klaatu <whichway@today.org> wrote:

>And the owners manual or Google don't come up with anything about changing
>the remote address?

There's nothing in the original manual or remote about changing the
address because it's not supported. One remote, intended to be used
with one device. Two in one room, interference.

There are TAPS (application software) which can be used to alter
the behaviour of the PVR to ignore the standard TF5800 codes, and
instead to use TF5810 (similar handset) codes. Or you can use a one-for-all
with the "other" code set on.

The OP already has these TAPs but has not got them working and so
is asking the question again, having already tried in uk.tech.tv.video.pvr
und uk.something.or.other-digital.tv ... and been given several
possible solutions, including trying the very helpful Topfield forum,
where I'm sure people familiar with the hardware and software could
indicate why it's not working.
--
--------------------------------------+------------------------------------
Mike Brown: mjb[-at-]signal11.org.uk | http://www.signal11.org.uk

--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: news@netfront.net ---




== 9 of 9 ==
Date: Tues, Feb 18 2014 8:16 am
From: Geo


On Tue, 18 Feb 2014 00:11:04 +0000, T i m <news@spaced.me.uk> wrote:


>A second IRTX placed inside the second unit with the external window
>covered with black tape. The IR TX LED(?) wired via a 3.5mm jack
>socket and similar on the remote (the switch on the socket isolating
>the internal TX). She's sitting right next to her Topfield anyway so
>it being wired really would be any disadvantage. Removing the lead
>and the tape reverts it back as std?
>
Or some hotmelt glue and a bit of old fibre optic from a christmas
lighting decoration?
What about one of the audio TosLink cables?





==============================================================================
TOPIC: Fuse for motor protection?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/4aa544fb8b4b8aa0?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Mon, Feb 17 2014 8:50 am
From: bud--


On 2/17/2014 1:11 AM, Mike Cook wrote:
>> No internal overload protection?
>
> As in a resettable overload button? Don't remember, I'll check. Can you give
> me a couple of "what if's"? ("If it does, then..." and "If it doesn't,
> then...")
>

In the US the nameplate would typically say "thermally protected" and
there would not be a manual reset. If the motor overheats the internal
thermal protection will disconnect the motor and it will reconnect (and
restart) when the motor cools off.

Starting current is often 6 x running current.









==============================================================================
TOPIC: Truth brand electrolytic capacitors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/024736b296c3838f?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 5 ==
Date: Mon, Feb 17 2014 10:47 am
From: Cydrome Leader


Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com> wrote:
> <http://wtfmoogle.com/?p=3585>
> Now, there is something I haven't seen before. Electrolytics that
> bulge and leak goo without any applied voltage. Probably useful for
> ultra-short product warranties.

Nice! I wonder how well they worked when they were new, or if they're even
really capacitors at all.






== 2 of 5 ==
Date: Mon, Feb 17 2014 11:26 am
From: John Robertson


On 02/17/2014 12:18 AM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
> On Mon, 17 Feb 2014 00:06:01 -0800, John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>
> wrote:
>
>> I had two NOS motherboards (roughly 2005 vintage) shipped to me for
>> repairing an old KIP scanner/printer computer - it had to have specific
>> vintage motherboard. The boards had never been used as far as I could
>> tell (and the company selling to me is reputable), but both boards had
>> the same bulging caps.
>
> Your URL's have a missing "w". Fixed:
> http://www.flippers.com/images/KIP-MPU-BulgingCap.JPG
> http://www.flippers.com/images/KIP-MPU-BulgingCap2.JPG
> http://www.flippers.com/images/KIP-MPU-BulgingCap3.JPG
>
> The motherboard kinda looks like something I would expect to find in a
> 2005 vintage Dell desktop. I'm not at the office, but I think I have
> quite a pile of those KZG caps from United Chemi-Con.
> <http://www.nfjapan.com/datasheet/KZG.pdf>
> Hmm... they look legitimate. I wonder what went wrong? Counterfeit
> caps perhaps? I'll compare with your photo when I have time.
>
>

Thanks for fixing the link URLs (opps!).

I think while the caps may well have been legit this was from the
counterfeit electrolyte period...

John :-#)#

--
(Please post followups or tech inquiries to the newsgroup)
John's Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9
(604)872-5757 or Fax 872-2010 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
www.flippers.com
"Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."




== 3 of 5 ==
Date: Mon, Feb 17 2014 11:49 am
From: jurb6006@gmail.com


Y'know what ? I bet they all test good ! I shit you not. We've all seen leaky and/or bulging lytics that are good and bad ones that look perfectly normal. Not that I would use them actually, but they probably do test good.

I remember the ones leaking electrolyte all ove the boards in Mitssubishi TVs, they were almost all perfectly good. Not even leaky, which is a bit surprising since the gunk soaked into the phenolic made it quite conductive.





== 4 of 5 ==
Date: Mon, Feb 17 2014 11:53 am
From: Trevor Wilson


On 17/02/2014 1:36 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
> <http://wtfmoogle.com/?p=3585>
> Now, there is something I haven't seen before. Electrolytics that
> bulge and leak goo without any applied voltage. Probably useful for
> ultra-short product warranties.
>

**Last year I ordered a couple of hundred caps from my local supplier. I
commenced using the caps. Around 10% showed signs of leakage within a
short time. All before I installed them into products. I recalled the
products they were installed in, and sent the whole lot back to the
supplier for a refund. Some of the caps I had installed were showing
signs of distress. A hollow act, since the cost of the caps was
insignificant compared to the cost of re-repairing the products they
were installed in. I have setttled on a new, more reliable supplier.

--
Trevor Wilson www.rageaudio.com.au




== 5 of 5 ==
Date: Mon, Feb 17 2014 11:13 pm
From: John Robertson


On 02/17/2014 11:53 AM, Trevor Wilson wrote:
> On 17/02/2014 1:36 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
>> <http://wtfmoogle.com/?p=3585>
>> Now, there is something I haven't seen before. Electrolytics that
>> bulge and leak goo without any applied voltage. Probably useful for
>> ultra-short product warranties.
>>
>
> **Last year I ordered a couple of hundred caps from my local supplier. I
> commenced using the caps. Around 10% showed signs of leakage within a
> short time. All before I installed them into products. I recalled the
> products they were installed in, and sent the whole lot back to the
> supplier for a refund. Some of the caps I had installed were showing
> signs of distress. A hollow act, since the cost of the caps was
> insignificant compared to the cost of re-repairing the products they
> were installed in. I have setttled on a new, more reliable supplier.
>

We tend to only use Panasonic caps from Digi-Key, Mouser, etc. No
problems with these! The cheap ones only lead to callbacks.

John :-#(#

--
(Please post followups or tech inquiries to the newsgroup)
John's Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9
(604)872-5757 or Fax 872-2010 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
www.flippers.com
"Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."





==============================================================================
TOPIC: Does this T-Mobile/LG smartphone carrier unlock code ever expire?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/4272d6a61f9f8866?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Mon, Feb 17 2014 3:11 pm
From: tlvp


On Mon, 17 Feb 2014 10:54:21 +0000 (UTC), Geoffrey S. Mendelson wrote:

> ... There was a version of the
> software to unlock the old Nokia handsets via a computer cable, and every time
> you ran it, it incremented the phone's IEMI by one.

??? IMEI (not IEMI) isn't irretrievably burned into ROM? Anyway the last
digit of an IMEI is a check-digit -- what you get from a valid IMEI by
merely incrementing it by one is generally no longer a valid IMEI :-) .

Cheers, -- tlvp
--
Avant de repondre, jeter la poubelle, SVP.




== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Mon, Feb 17 2014 8:39 pm
From: "Geoffrey S. Mendelson"


tlvp wrote:
> ??? IMEI (not IEMI) isn't irretrievably burned into ROM? Anyway the last
> digit of an IMEI is a check-digit -- what you get from a valid IMEI by
> merely incrementing it by one is generally no longer a valid IMEI :-) .

In this case I did not have or use the software, by the time there were
enough GSM carriers here to matter, you could get unlocked cell phones
cheaper here than locked ones. Now no cell phones are sold here locked.

I assume what it did was to add one to the serial number part of the IMEI
and recompute the check digit. It worked and was quite popular.

Geoff.

--
Geoffrey S. Mendelson, N3OWJ/4X1GM/KBUH7245/KBUW5379





== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Mon, Feb 17 2014 9:33 pm
From: tlvp


On Tue, 18 Feb 2014 04:39:21 +0000 (UTC), Geoffrey S. Mendelson wrote:

> tlvp wrote:
>> ??? IMEI (not IEMI) isn't irretrievably burned into ROM? Anyway the last
>> digit of an IMEI is a check-digit -- what you get from a valid IMEI by
>> merely incrementing it by one is generally no longer a valid IMEI :-) .
>
> In this case I did not have or use the software, by the time there were
> enough GSM carriers here to matter, you could get unlocked cell phones
> cheaper here than locked ones. Now no cell phones are sold here locked.

A much nicer state of affairs than allowing SIM-locked phones, isn't it?

> I assume what it did was to add one to the serial number part of the IMEI
> and recompute the check digit. It worked and was quite popular.

OK, I'll take your word for it :-) . Thanks,

> Geoff.

Cheers, -- tlvp


--
Avant de repondre, jeter la poubelle, SVP.





==============================================================================
TOPIC: Why are headphone jacks for computers and handsets different diameters
than cellphones?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/3b636d8ab09f744a?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 5 ==
Date: Tues, Feb 18 2014 1:48 am
From: Judy Miller


It always seems I have the wrong diameter headphone jack when I need one.

Since adapters exist, why do they make headphone jacks different
diameters anyway?

Is there a functional difference?





== 2 of 5 ==
Date: Tues, Feb 18 2014 5:43 am
From: "Percival P. Cassidy"


On 02/18/14 04:48 am, Judy Miller wrote:

> It always seems I have the wrong diameter headphone jack when I need one.
>
> Since adapters exist, why do they make headphone jacks different
> diameters anyway?
>
> Is there a functional difference?

I'd guess that the larger, the more durable, but the size of the device
often limits the size of the connector that can be used.

But some devices may produce only mono sound, while others produce
stereo sound. Again, different connectors are appropriate -- not
different sizes but with either two or three contact points.

Perce




== 3 of 5 ==
Date: Tues, Feb 18 2014 5:55 am
From: N_Cook


On 18/02/2014 13:43, Percival P. Cassidy wrote:
> On 02/18/14 04:48 am, Judy Miller wrote:
>
>> It always seems I have the wrong diameter headphone jack when I need one.
>>
>> Since adapters exist, why do they make headphone jacks different
>> diameters anyway?
>>
>> Is there a functional difference?
>
> I'd guess that the larger, the more durable, but the size of the device
> often limits the size of the connector that can be used.
>
> But some devices may produce only mono sound, while others produce
> stereo sound. Again, different connectors are appropriate -- not
> different sizes but with either two or three contact points.
>
> Perce

and more contacts for a boom mic




== 4 of 5 ==
Date: Tues, Feb 18 2014 6:30 am
From: dave


On 02/18/2014 01:48 AM, Judy Miller wrote:
> It always seems I have the wrong diameter headphone jack when I need one.
>
> Since adapters exist, why do they make headphone jacks different
> diameters anyway?
>
> Is there a functional difference?
>

Smart Phones have compatible connectors for normal earphones. Cellphones
were never really designed with multimedia in mind. I'd get a better mobe.




== 5 of 5 ==
Date: Tues, Feb 18 2014 9:31 am
From: Oren


On Tue, 18 Feb 2014 09:48:17 +0000 (UTC), Judy Miller
<jmiller@not.gmail.com> wrote:

>Since adapters exist, why do they make headphone jacks different
>diameters anyway?

Money.





==============================================================================
TOPIC: SEO Company in Chicago
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/6b67046831b3f7ad?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Tues, Feb 18 2014 7:28 am
From: kjonmarket.seo1@gmail.com


SEO is something that can not be ignored. Online marketers and entrepreneurs who

http://kjonmarket.com/services1/search-engine-optimization/do their business and its importance is even greater. They believe that the causes of their business is successful SEO .





==============================================================================
TOPIC: ST semi - CHN063AB.
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/934703eab0781f8b?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Tues, Feb 18 2014 8:43 am
From: "Ian Field"


Anyone know whether this is a thinly disguised MC34063?

Its definitely a switcher of some sort.

Thanks.





==============================================================================
TOPIC: JVC manual, anyone ... ?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/63cc42e35c291b74?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Tues, Feb 18 2014 9:25 am
From: "Arfa Daily"


Anyone got the service manual for a JVC CA-UXP7R mini hifi ? I've tried all
the usual suspects - Elektrotanya, eServiceinfo etc, but drawn a blank.
Looks like the CD B+ is missing, but buggered if I can see where it comes
from ... |:-(

Arfa





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