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Seymore4Head <Seymore4Head@Hotmail.invalid>: Sep 25 06:41PM -0400 I assume everyone has heard of this kid and his clock. http://truthuncensored.net/wp-content/uploads/2015/09/ahmed-mohamed-clock.jpg   The picture of the clock shows a 9V battery hookup but no battery. That means the kid either had to plug the clock in or it does have batteries that are not shown.   If we assume that there are no batteries, can this clock store it's alarm time? I say no, but I don't know.   If not, that means that the kid had to plug the clock in during class and also program it to alarm. The clock can not accidentally go off without battery back up. Right?

Con Saris <rpm.cjs@gmail.com>: Sep 25 04:12PM -0700 On Saturday, September 26, 2015 at 8:14:03 AM UTC+9:30, Seymore4Head wrote:   > If not, that means that the kid had to plug the clock in during class > and also program it to alarm. The clock can not accidentally go off > without battery back up. Right?   9v battery connector on LHS

Cursitor Doom <curd@notformail.com>: Sep 25 11:53PM On Fri, 25 Sep 2015 18:41:11 -0400, Seymore4Head wrote:   [...]   The whole thing is bullshit made up for political purposes:   http://www.infowars.com/video-of-white-guy-with-briefcase-clock- contradicts-claim-ahmed-mohamed-was-targeted-because-he-was-muslim/

Michael Black <et472@ncf.ca>: Sep 25 11:15PM -0400

John-Del <ohger1s@aol.com>: Sep 26 02:13AM -0700 On Friday, September 25, 2015 at 11:14:33 PM UTC-4, Michael Black wrote: Then National and some other companies came out with LSI that > put most of the circuitry in one large IC, and that caused more building, > though it was simpler.   Hehe... In the late 70s I ordered a digital clock "kit" from PolyPaks (old timers remember them!) a surplus electronic components company. What I got was a box of 4 "nixie" type General Electric fluorescent display tubes (9 pin in a 12AX7 bottle), a breadboard, AC trans, rect, resistors, capacitors and a National Semiconductor clock chip. I also got the data sheets for the the tubes and the IC, but no instructions on how to wire this in the literal sense. Being in a hurry, I didn't etch a PC but mounted the sockets and the IC in the breadboard, and hand wired each segment of each tube to the corresponding segment outputs to the clock chip by following the datasheets and built the simple power supply including the brightness adjustment which I believe adjusted the display tube heater voltage.   The folks at National actually designed and built this clock, but what I did was a hell of a lot more work than what little Ahmad did.   I should post pics of my clock as it still works, but the wiring under the board is a rat's nest.

Oltimer <nup@nup.com>: Sep 26 07:08PM +0800 On 26-Sep-15 6:41 AM, Seymore4Head wrote:   > If not, that means that the kid had to plug the clock in during class > and also program it to alarm. The clock can not accidentally go off > without battery back up. Right?   I reckon his old man set him up knowing full well what would happen.

N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Sep 26 04:23PM +0100 On 25/09/2015 23:41, Seymore4Head wrote:   > If not, that means that the kid had to plug the clock in during class > and also program it to alarm. The clock can not accidentally go off > without battery back up. Right?   Going by the chaffing of the mains cable, on closing the case, just as well he got nabbed. Fire+electrocution hazard, even if not explosive hazard. What happened in later life (still living?), for the kid that made a nuclear reactor in his parent's garden shed, using old radium clock dials etc?

Don Bruder <dakidd@sonic.net>: Sep 26 09:07AM -0700 In article <mu6d6b$t25$1@dont-email.me>, N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote:   > > without battery back up. Right?   > Going by the chaffing of the mains cable, on closing the case, just as > well he got nabbed. Fire+electrocution hazard, even if not explosive hazard.   And tell me, - just how stupid does somebody have to be in order to not figure out "Duh - when the lid is closed, the device needs no power, as it's obviously not being used - Perhaps I ought to throw the cable inside before I shut the lid..."? (Yes, I'm taking a slap at *YOUR* stupidity - because that's exactly what it was: A stupid nitpick that wouldn't have been made by anyone with a bit of common sense - Or anyone not looking for an excuse to chew on the kid's tail for no justifiable reason - Kinda like the dumbfuck cops trying to defend their mishandling of the case by trotting out some moron to explain "Well, we were too stupid to actually think, so we ran the kid through the mill to try to justify our existence.")   The kid done good. The Powers That Be fucked up - In spades. > What happened in later life (still living?), for the kid that made a > nuclear reactor in his parent's garden shed, using old radium clock > dials etc?   Last I heard, he was in the navy.   -- Security provided by Mssrs Smith and/or Wesson. Brought to you by the letter Q

Vincent Cheng Hoi Chuen <vchenghcv102@hotmail.com.hk>: Sep 21 02:10PM trader_4 <trader4@optonline.net> wrote in   > Just the facts.   OK. Just the facts Danno: http://www.arb.ca.gov/msprog/smogcheck/march09/transitioning_to_obd_only_im.pdf

sms <scharf.steven@geemail.com>: Sep 21 07:28AM -0700 >> pending codes for each model. A bad shop won't even know this information. > Actually it is not pending codes that are the issue. It is the > readiness monitors..   Yes, sorry, that's what I was referring to.   Can't remember how many readiness monitors there > understand the drive cycle and what can cause the monitor you want > dissabled to fail to set. (and it needs to be an intermittent or > non-continuous monitor. The usual culprits are Cat, evap, or EGR.   By the way, there's an excellent Android app for OBD-II called Torque Pro. The app is $4.95, and a Bluetooth ELM327 OBD-II adapter is less than $10 (I am using this one <http://www.dx.com/p/super-mini-elm327-bluetooth-odb2-v1-5-car-diagnostic-interface-tool-blue-142679>). The app does a lot more than just read or clear codes. It will display electronic gauges based on the sensor readings (especially useful for vehicles without temperature gauges or tachoometers). You can set alarms for things like over-temperature. It's also a very accurate speedometer (via the GPS), and it'll measure things like 0-60. <https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=org.prowl.torque&hl=en>   There's no iOS version because Apple forgot to include the necessary Bluetooth profile (SPP) in its devices. There are similar apps for iOS but not nearly as good. This one is one of them <https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/engine-link-obd-ii-vehicle/id591557194?mt=8> but you need to get a Wi-Fi ELM327 dongle, not a Bluetooth one.   I like having a 7" tablet with TorquePro and CoPilot (GPS). I made a holder for the tablet using one of the Panavise mounting brackets <http://www.panavise.com/index.html?pageID=1&id1=30&startat=1&--woSECTIONSdatarq=30&--SECTIONSword=ww>. Just be sure the tablet has a GPS chip, since very low-end Android tablets don't have one, nor do Wi-Fi only iPads. You can buy a decent Asus 7" tablet with a GPS for $50 <http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=9561735> just use a virtual credit card with a $1 limit and a one month expiration date when you sign up with McAffee (required to get the rebate). Intel, which owns McAffee, is trying to promote devices with their processor inside, hence the large rebate.

etpm@whidbey.com: Sep 21 02:12PM -0700 On Mon, 21 Sep 2015 09:43:43 -0700, "Bob F" <bobnospam@gmail.com> wrote:   >> no compensation because they have not suffered a loss. >> ERS   >No loss other than being unable to license their cars?   If they cannot license their cars without a firmware update then they have suffered a loss and should of course be able to sue or otherwise be remunerated. I was thinking about the car owners who live in an area where cars are not smog checked. For example, I live in Island County which is about 30 Miles from Seattle which is in King County. This means I don't have to get my vehicles smog checked whereas King County residents do. I don't know how CA does smog checks but I suspect everyone who lives there has to get one. I can see that I should have thought of that before I posted my comments. I just heard on the news that there are about 450,000 vehicles in the USA that have the dishonest firmware and that the EPA can fine VW $37,500 for each car. I find it amazing that so many people would participate in such a dishonest act, and that it could remain secret for so long. All sorts of folks, from the upper management to the software writers, had to know about and agree to actively participate in the fraud. I can see how some would do so because of greed. And others may have been afraid of losing their jobs. But I would think that many would refuse to commit fraud and that some of them would spill the beans. I guess I'm naive. Eric

Jon Elson <elson@pico-systems.com>: Sep 19 08:34PM -0500 Ewald Böhm wrote:     > REFERENCES: > http://blog.ucsusa.org/volkswagen-caught-cheating-vehicle-recall-887 > http://www.engineering.com/AdvancedManufacturing/ArticleID/10688/VW- Caught-Cheating-on-EPA-Tests.aspx > http://hothardware.com/news/vw-intentionally-programmed-engine-software- to-cheat-emissions-tests-forced-by-epa-to-recall-482k-vehicles > etc.   > My question is HOW did the car *know* it was being *tested* for emissions? Note that this applies to DIESEL cars only, apparently.   Jon

Chris Jones <lugnut808@spam.yahoo.com>: Sep 21 12:11AM +1000 On 20/09/2015 14:01, jadney wrote:   > I'm comfortable with rather ordinary grease for the rotating shaft bearings, etc, but the contacts are different material and can't afford the insulation between contacts to be compromised.   > I'm pretty sure Tek used to lube these with something in the old days, when you shipped scopes back to them for cleaning and recal. Yeah, I know, that was a LONG time ago. I think Tek even had lube kits that you could buy that contained suitable lubricants for different areas.   > This is a general question, not related only to Tek scopes.   Electrolube sell contact grease and contact oil. I have used these but I don't really know if they are good as I have not done controlled experiments. The MSDS lists some ingredients (including an anti-oxidant iirc), in case you wish to research it. In the past I have found that some of their aerosol cans tend to have quality problems e.g. leaking from around the valve.   Some old fluke meters had service manuals which used to warn against removing the grease from the rotary switch.   Chris

Tim Schwartz <tim@bristolnj.com>: Sep 21 03:41PM -0400 On 9/20/2015 12:01 AM, jadney wrote:   > I'm comfortable with rather ordinary grease for the rotating shaft bearings, etc, but the contacts are different material and can't afford the insulation between contacts to be compromised.   > I'm pretty sure Tek used to lube these with something in the old days, when you shipped scopes back to them for cleaning and recal. Yeah, I know, that was a LONG time ago. I think Tek even had lube kits that you could buy that contained suitable lubricants for different areas.   > This is a general question, not related only to Tek scopes.   I've used both Caig Labs Deoxit D5, and Mobil 1 5W30 synthetic oil. If the switch is really clean, or if I've cleaned a silver plated switch with cotton swabs and alcohol they I'll just use the oil. The 5W30 is not a specifically 'better' weight, just the one I have on hand. (I do not like things like WD40 on switches.) I've got switches I've cleaned 10+ years ago that are still fine.   Note: If AC power is on the wafer, then I'd suggest dry contacts.   Regards, Tim Bristol Electronics

N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Sep 20 10:06AM +0100 Last week I came across some NOS fine bore silicone sleeving. It was dated 1978. Firstly I did not realise it went back that far, in fact at least 20 years before that. No sign of greasiness, britalness , cracking, breaking with stretching only at the normal amout of stretch or lack of restitution after stretching. It could have been made this year. I was always a bit concerned about using silicone rubber for replacement flat rubber drive bands in cassette tape units etc. Still leaves the possibility of silicone rubber used in a dynamic way, flexing round motor pulleys , but so far so good, after about 10 years of such use

Jon Elson <jmelson@wustl.edu>: Sep 25 04:45PM -0500 bitrex wrote:   > rattling around in the case.   > I have little experience with tantalum capacitors. Any suggestions for > a more reliable replacement? One other option is Niobium Oxide caps, sold under the brand oxi-caps. Digi-Key has them. I have used several thousand of them on some gear that some users run in hard vacuum, so aluminum electrolytics were out of the question. I have mis-connected a few of the oxi-caps, and can verify they will char a bit, but not burst into flame.   Jon

Tim R <timothy42b@aol.com>: Sep 25 01:05PM -0700 Perfectly safe, except when pumping gas.

Chuck <chuck@mydeja.net>: Sep 25 01:18PM -0500 >thanks   >Mark   Yes.   Most sets have a circuit that senses an inbalance and shuts down all inverters.   --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus

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