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harry newton <harry@is.invalid>: Nov 01 01:59PM He who is Jeff Liebermann said on Mon, 30 Oct 2017 19:28:04 -0700:   > model 2.4Ghz radio and that you're using it in point-to-multipoint > topology. Therefore, you're limited to 4 watts EIRP which translates > into +26dBm into an 18dBi dish.   Yes. I was setting up an access point. Your information helps because I want to stay legal.   For example, since a neighbor 15 miles away (by road) lost her Internet yesterday in the Santa Cruz Mountains, I temporarily set her up using this spare Rocket M2 I had lying around outside gathering leaves & rust: <http://wetakepic.com/images/2017/11/01/wifi3.jpg>   It won't hold up against a windstorm as all I did was hand bolt it to the top of a wooden stepladder just outside her house, on the ground, near enough for the only (albeit short) Ethernet cord she had to reach the POE injector just inside the house. <http://wetakepic.com/images/2017/11/01/wifi4.jpg   Luckily, as you know, the weather is calm these days out here so it will hold up until her ISP gets around to fixing the blown access point she was connecting to. Meanwhile, we're getting pretty good (-60dB) signal pointing to an access point that is over 3 miles (over 5 kilometers) away with this temporary rig. <http://wetakepic.com/images/2017/11/01/wifi_2.jpg   > in accordance with 15.247. Setting up your Ubiquiti for bridging, > which is what's normally used for point to point, should not have any > effect on the transmit power.   This is good information becuase, for some reason (the forums?) I was under teh impression tha tthe radios were "hard coded" to not exceed the legal EIRP under any circumstances.   Yet, as can be seen in the screenshot below, this Ubiquiti Rocket M2 I temporarily set up for my neighbor miles away, is transmitting at 24 dBm into a dish that is 24 dBi, for a whopping calculation EIRP of 48 dBm. <http://wetakepic.com/images/2017/11/01/wifi.jpg   > maintain a decent BER (bit error rate) or PER (packet error rate). > However, wi-fi is not cellular, so forget about doing it the way > you've been guessing that it works.   In this case of the temporary setup, the measured noise is about -84 dBm, with a signal of -60 dBm, so we have a headroom of about 24dBm, which is way more than the 10 dBm to 15 dBm I find out, empirically, that seems to be the minimum required for a stable connection.   > saved settings from NVRAM into working memory. When you update the > firmware, there's no guarantee the setting saved in NVRAM are going to > work correctly.   I agree. In fact, I sometimes get *better* performance when I update the firmware, and sometimes *worse* (especially when they change how the radio reacts to denial-of-service attacks which consume the CPU bandwidth (it seems).   I had to talk to my ISP to get him to block certain IP addresses on his side, instead of me having to do so one by one on my side.   But I agree, there are three things that are different: a. Merely rebooting the radio (aka power cycling) b. Resetting the radio to factory default (aka factory settings) c. Updating the radio firmware (aka the operating system)   > after a firmware update, punch the reset button and put everything > back to the factory defaults. Then, configure it to your favorite > working numbers and see if the problem goes away.   I agree. It's even *easier* than that because I save the configuration files, so, in the end, all I have to do (for Ubiquiti equipment) is press the reset button on the POE injector for about 15 seconds (until all the lights flash on the radio), and voila! Factory settings.   Then I change my PC laptop to the 192.168.1.xx subnet, taking care not to use 192.168.1.0, 192.168.1.1, and 192.168.1.255, or 192.168.1.20.   Then I log into the radio at http://192.168.1.20 with a username and password of "ubnt" "ubnt", and load the previously saved configuration file.   I love that the Ubiquiti equipment defaults to station mode, which means you can plug it into any computer Ethernet port where it becomes your Wi-Fi connection capable of connecting your laptop to an access point *miles* away (depending on the access point of course) where you see a desktop connected to the access point over 3 miles (over 5 kilometers) away.   > I think I have all the potential leaks plugged. Of course, I've been > saying the same thing for last 15 years or so.   Let's hope this winter is wet, but I could do with a lot less rain than we had *last* winter, where our power went out every two weeks or so, for months!   You're a little closer to civilization than I am, but we're both in the same weather patterns.   Thanks for your helpful advice!

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Nov 01 08:45AM -0700 On Wed, 1 Nov 2017 13:59:19 +0000 (UTC), harry newton   >This is good information becuase, for some reason (the forums?) I was under >teh impression tha tthe radios were "hard coded" to not exceed the legal >EIRP under any circumstances.   The maximum transmit power and operating channels of the radio are controlled by the country code setting. Anything sold in the USA is suppose to be "locked" to US power limits: <https://www.cisco.com/c/en/us/td/docs/wireless/wcs/3-2/configuration/guide/wcscfg32/wcscod.pdf>   >temporarily set up for my neighbor miles away, is transmitting at 24 dBm >into a dish that is 24 dBi, for a whopping calculation EIRP of 48 dBm. > <http://wetakepic.com/images/2017/11/01/wifi.jpg   If it's point to point, that's legal. For fixed Point-to-Point it's 1 watt (+30 dBm) minus 1 dB for each 3 dB of antenna gain greater than 6 dBi. FCC Part 15.247(b) and (c), and Part 15.407(a).   >with a signal of -60 dBm, so we have a headroom of about 24dBm, which is >way more than the 10 dBm to 15 dBm I find out, empirically, that seems to >be the minimum required for a stable connection.   The fade margin, headroom, SOM (system operating margin), Eb/No (energy per bit / spectral noise density), SNR (signal to noise ratio), or whatever you wish to call it, varies with the data rate. The faster you go, the more fade margin you need for a constant BER (bit error rate) or PER (packet error rate). It also varies with modulation method. <http://www.eletrica.ufpr.br/evelio/TE111/Eb_N0.pdf> From my archives: Minimum signal to noise ratio (Eb/No) for various speeds at a BER = 10E-5 using 802.11b and 802.11g Speed SNR(dB) 11 6.99 5.5 5.98 2 1.59 1 -2.92 54 24.6 48 24.1 36 18.8 24 17.0 18 10.8 12 9.0 9 7.8 6 6.0   >> working numbers and see if the problem goes away.   >I agree. It's even *easier* than that because I save the configuration >files,   Nope. I don't think you understand the problem. The structure of the configuration files might change between firmware versions. Often, it's something subtle, like the length of the field length in an array. If you restore the previously saved configuration file, you're putting everything back the way it was before it became screwed up. The idea is to use the new and improved structure, from the upgraded firmware, not whatever is lurking in your saved config file. To play it safe, after a few surprises, I only restore config files to the a device with the same firmware that was used to create it.     -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

ukigantsog@gmail.com: Nov 01 08:42AM -0700 Press spin and time delay buttons together for few second

"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Nov 01 05:19AM -0700 > the cone while he was dying. The bones from that foot are wedged between > the spider, and the voice coil is melted around the ankle bone. I dont > want to disturb the skeleton, so how do I change the speaker?   I suggest that rather than repairing this radio, you do the world (and Medical Science) a great favor and contribute it to the Mütter Museum in downtown Philadelphia. They are still actively seeking exhibits and have a new, very enthusiastic curator.   http://muttermuseum.org/   http://media.philly.com/images/131116-Anna-Dhody-Mutter-Museum.jpg   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

bitrex <bitrex@de.lete.earthlink.net>: Nov 01 09:55AM -0400 > the cone while he was dying. The bones from that foot are wedged between > the spider, and the voice coil is melted around the ankle bone. I dont > want to disturb the skeleton, so how do I change the speaker?   Solid spooky troll, would read again

Foxs Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Nov 01 07:53AM -0500 On 10/9/2017 12:45 PM, Foxs Mercantile wrote:   > Situational ethics. The perfect excuse of a scoundrel.   Two indictments and a conviction. ;-)   Unsurprisingly, the howler monkeys are trying to deflect the attention by bring up uranium sales, the Steele dossier oh, and that other guy was just some "unknown volunteer that brought us coffee."   There's enough bullshit coming from the right, if they piled it up in the Sahara desert they could turn the entire area into a garden over night.   PS: Where's Trump's DD-214... Oh that's right, he doesn't have one. Ex-General Kelly has one. And he's doing an excellent job of burying his nose up so far the Don's ass, he's up to his shoulders now.         -- Jeff-1.0 wa6fwi http://www.foxsmercantile.com

mroberds@att.net: Nov 01 04:20AM > It's an old Sears garage door opener. The schematic shows a 50 ufd > start capacitor. What's in there now is 43-52 ufd. What I've found > locall to replace it is 53-64 ufd. Will that work?   You might check with an HVAC supply place if you haven't already. A lot of them carry Supco aftermarket start capactors, or have something they can cross to Supco. Supco has one that is pretty close to what you have now, and a few that might fit - all cylindrical, diameter x height:   CS43-56X110 43-56 uF, 110-125 V 1- 7/16 x 2-3/4 CS53-70X330 53-70 uF, 330 V 1-13/16 x 3-3/8 CS56-72X110 56-72 uF, 110-125 V 1- 7/16 x 2-3/4   I am not affiliated with Supco. I put one of their dual start capacitors (fan and compressor) in the outside A/C unit at my old house and it worked OK.   Matt Roberds

rickman <gnuarm@gmail.com>: Oct 31 04:56PM -0400 >>> cloth but it still scratched, and that surprised me.   >> That's why they make strap wrenches.   > For cars, a leather belt helps in changing the oil filter, and this material is also more sturdy than cloth. It would have to be cut in a very narrow strip, though.   The only thing that is a problem in changing my oil filter is the engine being in the way. I'm thinking of removing that so oil changes are easier.   --   Rick C   Viewed the eclipse at Wintercrest Farms, on the centerline of totality since 1998

rickman <gnuarm@gmail.com>: Oct 31 04:57PM -0400 >> little, but memory plays tricks on mpeople. And it didn't tear the >> cloth but it still scratched, and that surprised me.   > cloth isn't good for such things, as it's full of holes and most cloth collapses very easily. Card is better.   Whatever. I use pieces of old jeans and have not had any problems. Denim is good stuff for many uses.   --   Rick C   Viewed the eclipse at Wintercrest Farms, on the centerline of totality since 1998

tabbypurr@gmail.com: Oct 31 04:53PM -0700 On Tuesday, 31 October 2017 20:58:06 UTC, rickman wrote:   > > cloth isn't good for such things, as it's full of holes and most cloth collapses very easily. Card is better.   > Whatever. I use pieces of old jeans and have not had any problems. Denim > is good stuff for many uses.   yes - denim is not of course like most cloth. It's good for cleaning soldering iron tips too.     NT

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