| clare@snyder.on.ca: Nov 05 04:45PM -0500 On Sun, 5 Nov 2017 06:29:47 +0000 (UTC), RS Wood <rswood@is.invalid> wrote: >I used to patch the junction between the pipes with that white stuff. >Yuck. >Never worked for more than a week (to get through inspection). Wouldn't get through inspection here - Not legitimately anyway. >I did patch a holed gas tank once. >Amazingly, it worked for the remaining life of the car. I've patched gas tanks by soldering, brazing, and using "liquid metal" I've brazed punctured oil pans - both on and off the car (really extreme measures when on the car - involved use of hot water and a big CO2 fire extinguisher, but 8-12 hours to pull the engine was NOT in the cards!!! And you didn't sat what the "remaining life" of the car was. A cake of soap has gotten many a car home - or through a cursoty inspectin to trade it off - - - |
| clare@snyder.on.ca: Nov 05 05:06PM -0500 On Sat, 4 Nov 2017 23:46:38 -0700, The Real Bev <bashley101@gmail.com> wrote: >steel projections on the backing plate had dug out its own trench. >Godawful noise, but the brakes still worked fine so I figured I could >wait another month :-( (Not the Caddy, this was a 68/9 LTD.) as a retired auto tech, I have to dissagree. A "plowed" rotor can NOT bed properly to the rotor, it cannot "bed" proerly and it WILL overheat parts of the pad before the rest even contacts the rotor. A "scored" rotor does NOT pas an Ontario DOT test - nor should it. If a new pad and rotor wear together and smoothe "ridges" develop, thats a slightly different situation - but you should NEVER put new pads on a grooved rotor - |
| clare@snyder.on.ca: Nov 05 05:10PM -0500 >I'm not so familiar with polypropylene and UV. I know most plastics are >susceptible unless additives are used. There are lots of references >available... read! For PE see https://rotoworldmag.com/polyethylene-long-term-uv-performance/ |
| clare@snyder.on.ca: Nov 05 05:13PM -0500 On Sun, 5 Nov 2017 19:48:11 +1100, Xeno <xenolith@optusnet.com.au> wrote: >> threads. >> Is that how the lead and efi helped plugs last forever? >> The enigma is that the higher voltage "should" eat the metal faster. MSD - mult-spark-Discharge ignition was a performance add-on in the late seventies - before computer controlled ignition. |
| clare@snyder.on.ca: Nov 05 05:13PM -0500 On Sun, 5 Nov 2017 19:56:38 +1100, Xeno <xenolith@optusnet.com.au> wrote: >> do believe some manufacturers are going back to chains. Belts are >> cheaper but pissed off customers aren't. >I have Toyotas precisely because they have a chain. Some do, some don't. (perhaps today they all do - not sure) |
| kludge@panix.com (Scott Dorsey): Nov 05 05:14PM -0500 >>A 20 year old Toyota T100 with 240,000 miles. Is that your typical crap? > At 20 years old, possibly the last Toyota made without stainless >exhaust. If it's a 20-year-old Toyota the original exhaust was stainless, but it was a ferritic stainless that will eventually corrode with enough heating cycles. "Stainless Steel" is actually a whole lot of totally different things in three different and hardly-even-related families. --scott -- "C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis." |
| clare@snyder.on.ca: Nov 05 04:59PM -0500 >> I don't disagree. I hated working on mufflers. That was before my gas >> welding days. >> With a gas welder, removing mufflers would have been a *lot* easier. A cut-off wheel on a grinder or a "muffler chisel" - preterably on an air hammer, also makes muffler repair a lot easier - but the "blue tip wrench" is pretty universal >>> No, it's not. It's still the same steel that lasts around 4 years. >> My bimmer is approaching 20 years on the same exhaust system. >Maybe they used stainless, but you paid for it, no? My 16 year old taurus has stainless exhaust, as does my 22 year old Ranger. So did my Mystique, originally - but when a flange broke for the original owner some bandit sold him a complete walker mild steel system. After I got it, I replaced it again with stainless. The last car s I ownwd without factory stainless exhaust were th '90 aerostar and the '88 New Yorker. My daughres' Honda Civic and Hyundai Elantra both have stainless systems - the Honda's a 2008. |
| clare@snyder.on.ca: Nov 05 05:00PM -0500 >> What crap are you driving??? Most have been stainless steel for over >> 20myears. >A 20 year old Toyota T100 with 240,000 miles. Is that your typical crap? At 20 years old, possibly the last Toyota made without stainless exhaust. |
| "tom" <tmiller11147@verizon.net>: Nov 05 05:38PM -0500 <clare@snyder.on.ca> wrote in message news:5v1vvc910pue1sjvbmdc4dt9lga0bi32jb@4ax.com... > car s I ownwd without factory stainless exhaust were th '90 aerostar > and the '88 New Yorker. My daughres' Honda Civic and Hyundai Elantra > both have stainless systems - the Honda's a 2008. My 2000 Acura TL has an all stainless exhaust system. I'll never buy another car or truck without a stainless exhaust system. That is one headache no one needs. |
| Xeno <xenolith@optusnet.com.au>: Nov 06 10:05AM +1100 On 6/11/2017 1:27 AM, RS Wood wrote: >> spark, there arose a need to go to high energy ignition systems. > Thank you for correcting my assumption. > So it's a higher voltage zap for a longer period of time. It's higher voltage to get a spark happening more easily in lean mixture land but it's the *high energy* that allows the longer duration spark. It's one of the reasons manufacturers went to individual coils - only need to supply spark to one cylinder so gets a very long dwell time with plenty of coil saturation. > What's the old voltage? Something like 10K to 15K volts, right? Up to 20k. All the old oscilloscopes had a range, from memory, up to 25-30k. > What is the new voltage zap? 60k or better. -- Xeno |
| Xeno <xenolith@optusnet.com.au>: Nov 06 10:06AM +1100 On 6/11/2017 1:25 AM, RS Wood wrote: > instead, and if I can induce pinging, then the moment that the engine > pings, it vibrates "just enough" to shake loose carbon deposits (until the > engine timing is retarded to eliminate the pinging). A lot of cars these day have EMS that learn and that means they can compensate for poor quality fuel and take advantage of better quality fuel by modifying the ignition map to suit. > I have never heard of that, but, it kind of sort of makes sense. > Is that what you're implying can happen? Not can, does happen. For the knock sensor to operate, there needs to be a knock first. FWIW, you don't generally get a really big knock first off. It's progressive and starts with a small knock which generates more heat which generates a bigger knock and so on. -- Xeno |
| Xeno <xenolith@optusnet.com.au>: Nov 06 10:07AM +1100 On 6/11/2017 1:29 AM, RS Wood wrote: > Until this thread, I had not realized that the cylinder wall was being > washed with gasoline, but it must have been because that's what a choke > essentially does, and certainly what the accelerator pump did. The carburetor sprays atomized fuel into the cylinders but when the intake manifold, cylinder head, cylinders and pistons are cold, it's very difficult for vapourisation to take place so liquid fuel enters the cylinders. It is difficult to rebuild the oil film above the oil control ring. It takes a little time. In that time the cylinder walls and rings don't have the protection of the oil film and most wear will take place. That is why cylinder bores will always wear tapered with most of the taper occurring above the oil control ring. A vehicle in continuous use and always warmed up, such as a taxi or a long haul truck, has much less cylinder wear. -- Xeno |
| Xeno <xenolith@optusnet.com.au>: Nov 06 10:09AM +1100 On 6/11/2017 1:42 AM, rbowman wrote: > Valve adjustment with shims under the bucket can be painful. Fortunately > my Harley has hydraulic lifters and the DR650 has screw adjusters. I > checked the DL650 last year and it was still in spec. Been there, done that, with E Series Leyland Engines. Have to say though that if the valves and seats are decent, adjustments are not regular events. There's a lot of margin built in. If you don't mind regular clearance checking and adjustments, you can run closer than factory specs and gain the effect of a hotter cam. A set of pre-measured, marked and sorted shims is a handy thing to have around. -- Xeno |
| Xeno <xenolith@optusnet.com.au>: Nov 06 10:10AM +1100 On 6/11/2017 1:32 AM, RS Wood wrote: > So if I look it up, I'll just find out the same thing that everyone else > already found out - which is that it's too complex to summarize accurately. > Which was my point. Look up the process for providing UV protection for tyres. The concept is essentially the same. -- Xeno |
| Xeno <xenolith@optusnet.com.au>: Nov 06 10:12AM +1100 On 6/11/2017 1:46 AM, RS Wood wrote: > Let's not just talk. If you really think that removing mass is the way to > make rotors run cooler, then just show me a valid reference that agrees > with your point of view. (Not marketing bullshit please.) Pads, under extremes of heat, give off gases. It is the presence of those gases *between* the pads and the disc that prevents the friction from happening. The gases make the pads operate more like a hovercraft. The slots provide a means by which the gases can quickly escape. In a road going car, slotted rotors are probably overkill. Not so on high performance vehicles. -- Xeno |
| Xeno <xenolith@optusnet.com.au>: Nov 06 10:31AM +1100 On 6/11/2017 3:15 AM, Ed Pawlowski wrote: > You take an adjustible with you when you don't know what size you will > need. If you get lucky, 50% of the time it will work but 50% of the > time you go back for a box or open end. Especially useful where you are working on one of those bastard bits of machinery where you have a mixture of metric and SAE bolts and nuts. -- Xeno |
| Xeno <xenolith@optusnet.com.au>: Nov 06 10:33AM +1100 On 6/11/2017 4:18 AM, The Real Bev wrote: >> time you experience brake fade. > Hrm. I thought that was done to lighten them -- bicyclists are > sometimes also called gram-shavers. It provides better cooling too? Removing mass reduces heat holding ability. The material removed does not provide a gain in surface exposure. The real gain is providing a path for the gasses coming off the pad surfaces to escape from between the pad and rotor. Reduces the hovercraft effect. -- Xeno |
| Xeno <xenolith@optusnet.com.au>: Nov 06 10:40AM +1100 On 6/11/2017 6:05 AM, Frank wrote: > I've heard that the younger crowd trades in cars because the electronics > are outdated, not the mechanical parts. > Lot of us keep a car until repair cost exceeds book value. I trade my cars in when I'm sick of them. -- Xeno |
| tabbypurr@gmail.com: Nov 05 03:40PM -0800 > >Displacement is just not gonna be a major determinant in engine life. > Not on a lightly loaded vehicle. > >>>But that's another difference in the days of yore! I'm surprised to hear you say load is a major factor in engine life. AIUI very few engine failures are due to big end bearings or rings these days, and those are the 2 parts mainly affected by load. A lot of parts wear according to how many revs they do, thus going a given distance at lower rpm wears them less. But I'm certainly open to re-education. NT |
| The Real Bev <bashley101@gmail.com>: Nov 05 03:49PM -0800 >>Never again! > Find a place to get the wrench through to the bolt and spin the fan - > don't need to move the handle more than a few degrees. I'm sure I tried everything that seemed in any way possible. I don't even like thinking about it any more :-( -- Cheers, Bev Buckle Up. It makes it harder for the aliens to suck you out of your car. |
| Xeno <xenolith@optusnet.com.au>: Nov 06 10:50AM +1100 > new pad and rotor wear together and smoothe "ridges" develop, thats a > slightly different situation - but you should NEVER put new pads on a > grooved rotor - Any scoring on a rotor will fail it. As you say, there might be less than 50% of the pad surface in contact with the rotor surface. No way will that bed in properly. You will get localised overheating both on the pad and on the rotor. -- Xeno |
| Xeno <xenolith@optusnet.com.au>: Nov 06 10:51AM +1100 >>> The enigma is that the higher voltage "should" eat the metal faster. > MSD - mult-spark-Discharge ignition was a performance add-on in the > late seventies - before computer controlled ignition. The GDI engines are moving to multi spark due to stratified charge. -- Xeno |
| Xeno <xenolith@optusnet.com.au>: Nov 06 10:52AM +1100 >>> cheaper but pissed off customers aren't. >> I have Toyotas precisely because they have a chain. > Some do, some don't. (perhaps today they all do - not sure) The ones I buy sure do! ;-) -- Xeno |
| "Ian Field" <gangprobing.alien1@virginmedia.com>: Nov 05 07:09PM <tabbypurr@gmail.com> wrote in message news:46fee7e4-3070-49d2-81ab-0eec80abe9b5@googlegroups.com... > some from MS some 3rd party. The bad news is that applying them all will > take well north of a day's work. So put it on old hardware if you can find > it. Can't see any reason why DOS wouldn't work, but it'd only be able to see a tiny fraction of the installed memory - not that its going to be much of a problem if all you want to do is play with floppies. Most of the boards I get have changed hands a few times - they've been arriving with no floppy port for a while now. |
| Sjouke Burry <burrynulnulfour@ppllaanneett.nnll>: Nov 05 09:15PM +0100 On 5-11-2017 20:03, Ian Field wrote: >> stuff. > Peter Norton's company was taken over by Symantec who CBA doing viable NU > beyond 16bit. It would've been better if they had abandoned it. Still have NU on two of my dos computers Norton Utilities Version 8.0.20 Copyright 1994 by Symantec Corporation. |
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