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jurb6006@gmail.com: Feb 28 04:05PM -0800 If you remember back in the CTC195 days, how the remote was...   Well we got this old Toshiba, maybe a 32A32 ? Also a Direct TV remote which is by RCA. I want to program it for the Toshiba just to work the TV/VIDEO and menus, and I think maybe this will do it.   I searched and searched for the codes, and the method for setting it. I would rather set it rather than search for the right code but I can't even find the instructions for that.   Of course I don't expect an RCA OEM remote to program to other TVs, but a Direct TV one should. Now at their site they have the new ones, which have the instructions in the cable box apparently.   And there were universals sold at the stores shaped the same and didn't come with an RCA TV. Should be the same TV codes no ?   Anyone remember how to work these beasts ?   We can get up to change sources and adjust the picture but the keys on the set are dirty and being the resistive ladder type you press a button and it does pretty much what it damn well pleases.

"J.B. Wood" <arl_123234@hotmail.com>: Mar 01 06:50AM -0500 > And there were universals sold at the stores shaped the same and didn't come with an RCA TV. Should be the same TV codes no ?   > Anyone remember how to work these beasts ?   > We can get up to change sources and adjust the picture but the keys on the set are dirty and being the resistive ladder type you press a button and it does pretty much what it damn well pleases.   Hello, and if you don't know the 3-4 digit code applicable to your Toshiba, most universal remotes (perhaps your DIRECTV one) have a search mode. The usual procedure is to power on the device to be controlled and then use the remote to step through its stored codes until your device powers off. However, this can be very time consuming. I have a Comcast/Xfinity remote that I use both for the cable box and TV. This device was designed to control multiple devices and there was a list of device codes enclosed with the user manual. The user instructions - that documentation no one reads and often throws out ;-). Sincerely,   -- J. B. Wood e-mail: arl_123234@hotmail.com

oldschool@tubes.com: Mar 01 03:54AM -0600 I have an electric guitar. It has a 4 position switch that selects which of the three pickups, or all of them. There is a piece of metal that sticks up, which is supposed to have a knob on it. Knob was missing. Besides appearance, that metal shaft is sharp and dont feel good on the hand.   But this is not your typical round shaft, it's a flat piece of metal about 1/4" wide and 1/32 inch thick. So the knob will have a slit in it. The guitar is a Silvertone from probably the 1970s, so I wont likely find an original knob. But I am not all that picky about getting an original, as long as I can get something that fits.   I did call a music store and was told that they will check what they have, but said he doubts they have anything. (Will call me back). So it looks like I am gonna have to fidn something at an electronics store or ebay. My question is *What do you call this sort of knob*? I dont know what words to search for.

Mike Coon <gravity@mjcoon.plus.com>: Mar 01 11:02AM In article <bpif9dhve83c75av5tcsmeac2jvn74k4ok@4ax.com>, oldschool@tubes.com says... > looks like I am gonna have to fidn something at an electronics store or > ebay. My question is *What do you call this sort of knob*? I dont know > what words to search for.   It's a motivation to read the poem "Today we have naming of parts", which will not help at all.   Then get a short bit of 1/4 inch nylon or similar rod, cut it down the middle, stick the two halves onto your sharp shaft and fit a standard knob.   Mike.

Boris Mohar <borism_void_@sympatico.ca>: Mar 01 06:28AM -0500 On Thu, 01 Mar 2018 03:54:03 -0600, oldschool@tubes.com wrote:   If you google "guitar lever switch" and than "images" you would find a dogpile of switches, few of which are for guitar pickups. https://goo.gl/UUhUaY     -- Boris   --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus

John-Del <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Feb 28 09:33AM -0800 On Wednesday, February 28, 2018 at 11:27:10 AM UTC-5, bitrex wrote: > <https://imgur.com/a/aMsBA>   Many moons ago I had a guy bring in a stereo receiver for repair. The cover was off so he could show me where the fuses went.. He also had a 5 pack of Radio Shack fuses and just one remained. He told me he changed the fuse four times and it blew immediately each time.   I asked him why he stopped at 4..

Trevor Wilson <trevor@SPAMBLOCKrageaudio.com.au>: Mar 01 06:45AM +1100 On 1/03/2018 4:33 AM, John-Del wrote: >> <https://imgur.com/a/aMsBA>   > Many moons ago I had a guy bring in a stereo receiver for repair. The cover was off so he could show me where the fuses went.. He also had a 5 pack of Radio Shack fuses and just one remained. He told me he changed the fuse four times and it blew immediately each time.   > I asked him why he stopped at 4..   **I love it when they keep putting larger fuses in, so they don't blow.   -- Trevor Wilson www.rageaudio.com.au

Mike Coon <gravity@mjcoon.plus.com>: Feb 28 08:55PM In article <6eebb976-be86-4c52-b51d-b8a158909f5f@googlegroups.com>, ohger1s@gmail.com says... > > <https://imgur.com/a/aMsBA>   > Many moons ago I had a guy bring in a stereo receiver for repair. The cover was off so he could show me where the fuses went.. He also had a 5 pack of Radio Shack fuses and just one remained. He told me he changed the fuse four times and it blew immediately each time.   > I asked him why he stopped at 4..   Is it like keeping one bullet to avoid being captured alive?   Mike.

"Gareth Magennis" <soundserviceleeds@outlook.com>: Feb 28 09:02PM "bitrex" wrote in message news:rLAlC.237600$9z2.147222@fx43.iad...   <https://imgur.com/a/aMsBA>     *******************************************   I recently keep coming across brand new unsold equipment which has been supplied with a fast blow mains fuse that has blown at turn on.   This is from more than one manufacturer.       I have no idea what that is all about.     Gareth.

John-Del <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Feb 28 03:08PM -0800 On Wednesday, February 28, 2018 at 2:46:14 PM UTC-5, Trevor Wilson wrote:   > -- > Trevor Wilson > www.rageaudio.com.au     Yep.   I had a guy bring in a Thomson TX82 13" TV for a dead complaint. In it's fuse holder was a piece of copper tubing cut to fit a GMA fuse holder perfectly. Missing from the TV was in the mains input reactor filter coil. There were four burn marks where the posts used to be mounted to the board. I would love to know how big a bang this made when they plugged it in.

Adrian Caspersz <email@here.invalid>: Feb 28 11:09PM On 28/02/18 21:02, Gareth Magennis wrote: > supplied with a fast blow mains fuse that has blown at turn on.   > This is from more than one manufacturer.   > I have no idea what that is all about.   Second customer returns after a returned "repair" done with the wrong fuse?   If that's true, you would do well to investigate who is actually doing this. What class of equipment?   -- Adrian C

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Feb 28 03:25PM -0800 Gareth Magennis wrote:   ---------------------------   > I recently keep coming across brand new unsold equipment which has been > supplied with a fast blow mains fuse that has blown at turn on.   > This is from more than one manufacturer.   ** A friend who did Fender warranty work was getting a lot "failed on the showroom floor" amps. Always the same, an F1A or F1.6A supply fuse popped. Fitted a T fuse instead and no more problem. Of course, the fuses concerned were buried inside on the main PCB !!   T fuses were not always easy to buy, so it was common to use an oversize F fuse instead - labelling often encouraged you to do so.   Whatever the combination of dumb ideas, it is not hard to do a number of on-off cycles while keeping a close eye on an F fuse. If it bends severely at switch on it's gonna fail soon.       .... Phil

"Gareth Magennis" <soundserviceleeds@outlook.com>: Mar 01 12:10AM "Phil Allison" wrote in message news:d0463157-c0a6-4f41-bc59-3d020b72bc41@googlegroups.com...   Gareth Magennis wrote:   ---------------------------   > I recently keep coming across brand new unsold equipment which has been > supplied with a fast blow mains fuse that has blown at turn on.   > This is from more than one manufacturer.   ** A friend who did Fender warranty work was getting a lot "failed on the showroom floor" amps. Always the same, an F1A or F1.6A supply fuse popped. Fitted a T fuse instead and no more problem. Of course, the fuses concerned were buried inside on the main PCB !!   T fuses were not always easy to buy, so it was common to use an oversize F fuse instead - labelling often encouraged you to do so.   Whatever the combination of dumb ideas, it is not hard to do a number of on-off cycles while keeping a close eye on an F fuse. If it bends severely at switch on it's gonna fail soon.       .... Phil         ********************************     Fender is one culprit.   Most others are Active studio monitors of various brands.         Gareth.

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Feb 28 08:02PM -0800 Gareth Magennis wrote:   ----------------------   > ********************************   > Fender is one culprit.   > Most others are Active studio monitors of various brands.   ** I assume the fuses supplied ARE as marked on the schems and PCBs ?   The Fender HR Deluxe, 40W all tube amp, comes supplied with F1.6A fuses fitted for 230/240VAC use.   https://schematicheaven.net/fenderamps/hotrod_deluxe.pdf   Despite the NTC device, the fuse value is right on the limit for tolerating worst case, inrush surges.   With such amps, the power transformer surges hard when the AC supply is switched on near a supply voltage zero crossing - plus tube heaters draw significant extra current when first turned on ( about 6 times the rated amount ) and lastly the filter electros caps surge if the supply is switched near a supply voltage peak.   A last straw step happens when the operator flicks the AC switch on then off and quickly on again - as could easily happen playing about with an unfamiliar amp in a store. Surging the delicate F fuse wire while it is still hot.       > Most others are Active studio monitors of various brands.   ** Double surging an F fuse would be likely here too, whether the PSU is transformer or SM.     .... Phil

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Feb 28 08:18PM -0800 Adrian Caspersz wrote:   ----------------------     > Second customer returns after a returned "repair" done with the wrong fuse?   > If that's true, you would do well to investigate who is actually doing > this.     ** Factory techs working in places like Mexico and China, sometimes elsewhere.     > What class of equipment?     ** Anything that has a significant inrush surge. Toroidal transformer based PSUs are major culprits.         .... Phil

N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Mar 01 08:45AM On 28/02/2018 21:02, Gareth Magennis wrote:   > I have no idea what that is all about.   > Gareth.   Universal self-selecting SMPS , with fuses supplied for 110V countries?

Phil Hobbs <pcdhSpamMeSenseless@electrooptical.net>: Feb 28 07:54PM -0500 On 02/27/2018 12:29 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote: > a fake. After cleaning out the shavings from the guts, removing the > burrs, and squaring the jaws so that they were parallel, I did > something that blew up the electronics. Sorry, no photos.   Well, I bought them some years back from an actual Mitu distributor, so I'm pretty sure they're real. No swarf, no detectable parallellism error, no noticeable offset between depth gauge and ID/OD blades, good battery life, nice case.   My cheap 'n' cheerful Chinese ones are actually quite OK as well.   Cheers   Phil Hobbs   -- Dr Philip C D Hobbs Principal Consultant ElectroOptical Innovations LLC / Hobbs ElectroOptics Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics Briarcliff Manor NY 10510   http://electrooptical.net http://hobbs-eo.com

N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Feb 28 07:51PM On 27/02/2018 08:26, N_Cook wrote: > behind. Pressing button C, brought it back to UK time, currently still > the "normal" slightly wavering correct UK time having passed thr a very > cold night   Looks like I won't go inside this week. It decided of its own accord to engage radio control and has run fine since, including very cold nights. I decided to grind back all 4 plastic knobs, so a fingernail is required to operate, and as hollow buttons , some hotmelt in there to stop dirst entry. Why this watch and most of the cameras I've owned plus a "Dremmel" without a shroud around the mains switch (serious safety issue there). A crazy business having to recess switches and shroud switches on handled and transportable mainstream products. I'll give it anothe rweek , on probation

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