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J-J <none@none.non>: Jan 30 12:18PM -0500 On 1/27/20 1:52 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:   > Rubber stamp pad refill ink should work. It would not do to have the > stamp pad dry out prematurely. > <https://www.staples.com/stamp+pad+ink/directory_stamp%2520pad%2520ink>   Sorry to say that this ink isn't working. I filled the little triangular reservoir to the brim and even after a full night, although the drum and chart have rotated, nothing on the paper.   > <https://www.ebay.com/itm/Barograph-Thermograph-Recording-Ink-Slow-Dry-Dark-Blue-5oz-15ml-/123902459872> > <https://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/barograph-instrument-recording-pen-276775650> > etc...   I appreciate these, but the problem is that they are expensive for just tiny amounts. The hope was to try this unit out for a week to make sure it works, then put it up for resale. I suppose if I have no choice, I'll have to go this way though.

Mike Coon <gravity@mjcoon.plus.com>: Jan 30 05:26PM In article <r0v34e$gab$1@dont-email.me>, none@none.non says... > Sorry to say that this ink isn't working. I filled the little > triangular reservoir to the brim and even after a full night, although > the drum and chart have rotated, nothing on the paper.   I think you might have to wet the tip to get the flow started. Assuming you can swing the pen away from the drum, just touch the tip with a cotton bud or similar wetted with a drop of ink and swing it back immediately. Assuming it is all clean...   Mike.

J-J <none@none.non>: Jan 30 12:31PM -0500 On 1/30/20 12:26 PM, Mike Coon wrote: > you can swing the pen away from the drum, just touch the tip with a > cotton bud or similar wetted with a drop of ink and swing it back > immediately. Assuming it is all clean...   Interesting, I'll try that today and report back. Thanks.

J-J <none@none.non>: Jan 30 12:37PM -0500 On 1/30/20 12:31 PM, J-J wrote:   > Interesting, I'll try that today and report back.  Thanks.   >> Mike.   Well, the good news is that the ink wasn't dry. I moistened the end of a cotton swab, then touched it to the end of the reservoir and ink immediately started flowing. Moved the reservoir tip back against the drum. Now just waiting on time.

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Jan 30 09:47AM -0800 >Sorry to say that this ink isn't working. I filled the little >triangular reservoir to the brim and even after a full night, although >the drum and chart have rotated, nothing on the paper.   Does the instrument work with genuine barograph recording ink?   What are you using for paper? The real barograph paper is rather absorbent. My closest approximation to a substitute was 20 lb inkjet paper. The common universal variety, that does both inkjet and laser printing is clay coated and will not absorb the ink. Inkjet paper mostly worked, but my results were not very good.   I did some Googling and skimmed some old weather station manuals and books to see if there were any clues as to how to make my own ink. I did find some people online who have done it, but all of them are selling the ink and probably will not divulge their formulation. I haven't had time to search the patents pages. I suspect you might find something there. I can help, but I won't have time for a week or three.   >tiny amounts. The hope was to try this unit out for a week to make sure >it works, then put it up for resale. I suppose if I have no choice, >I'll have to go this way though.   You haven't provided a number which you consider expensive. $8 for a 10ml bottle of ink from Metcheck (plus shipping) is not a huge investment. I think you'll find that the 10 ml bottle will last several years. The recorder takes about 1 drop of ink from an eye dropper to fill. That's about 20 drops per ml or 200 drops per bottle. If your recorder runs for a week, and one drop lasts for a conservative 2 weeks (based on my experience), that's: 2 * 200 / 52 = 7.8 years of operation or about $1/year in ink.     -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

J-J <none@none.non>: Jan 30 12:56PM -0500 On 1/30/20 12:47 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote: >> triangular reservoir to the brim and even after a full night, although >> the drum and chart have rotated, nothing on the paper.   > Does the instrument work with genuine barograph recording ink?   I have no idea. I picked it up at a local estate sale, so wasn't sure it even worked. However, both the timing and barometric pressure are correct, so the biggest hurdles out of the way. There was a red ink track on the barographic chart that was taped on it, but that's all I knew about the ink and not whether or not it worked. I did find out that whoever had it was using the wrong chart with the wrong ranges, however.   > paper. The common universal variety, that does both inkjet and laser > printing is clay coated and will not absorb the ink. Inkjet paper > mostly worked, but my results were not very good.   A gentleman told me that he uses 11x14 glossy photo paper for his continuously, prints his own charts, and gets excellent results. I don't have any charts other than the one that was already on the unit that had the red trace. If nothing else, I could continue using that for now.   > haven't had time to search the patents pages. I suspect you might > find something there. I can help, but I won't have time for a week or > three.   Well, I won't try selling the unit until I have verified that I can get a couple week's worth of correct traces first, so it will just sit as I try different things. The way I have verified it working so far is taking a series of camera shots, one every 30 minutes, then verifying the pressure and time each day after image review. In that way, so far, so good.

Michael Terrell <terrell.michael.a@gmail.com>: Jan 30 04:33PM -0800 On Thursday, January 30, 2020 at 12:18:11 PM UTC-5, J-J wrote: > >> suggestions appreciated.   > > Sorry. I haven't tried replacing the stock ink well and have no plans > > on trying to do so.   Stamp pad ink has clay in it to help keep the face of the stamps fairly flat as they wear down.   I would look for ink made for reinking printer ribbons. It has no abrasives that thicken it, and it dries slowly. It was used on dot matrix & daisywheel printers along with typewriters. I used to reink black ribbons but that was 25 years ago. that ink is oil based, unlike the ink for modern printers with alcohol or other thinning agents.

Lucifer <LuciferMorningstar@bigpond.com>: Jan 31 07:40PM +1100 >electronic rotating drum. On the drum is taped a chart and, in >combination with a "pen" (of sorts), barometric pressure is recorded. >After a week, the charts are removed and replaced with a fresh one.   I have one that records barometric pressure, temperature, and humidity, and the drum is clockwork.

J-J <none@none.non>: Jan 31 11:01AM -0500 Ok, an update. Unfortunately, here's what happened after trying an oil based ink from Staples. It almost seems like there was a "hemorrhage" of sorts, then almost nothing (in fact, I didn't even realize there was any trace at all until uploading the photo... I did turn the drum a day ahead to get past the huge ink spot):   https://imgur.com/a/GcYaO8c   So, I guess it boils down to the incorrect ink, incorrect paper, or both. For the chart, I printed my own on standard 8.5x14 printer/ typing paper. I did back the paper with two pieces of packing tape just in case a spot like the one shown appeared so at least it wouldn't stain the drum.   I'm just not going to be able to get away with testing this thing for under $10, am I?

Michael Terrell <terrell.michael.a@gmail.com>: Jan 30 04:43PM -0800 > http://www.berktree.com/ritter-355-minor-surgery-light-8-.html I was told that it was between me and the dumpster. One went to me, one to our Vet.   > This will involve a complete re-design of my Radio Room - together with a major Culling-of-the-Herd. And, since the house was built in 1890, I will have to be very clever with the installation. The thing weighs 62 pounds and the mount needs to be dead-level.   > Not a bad task to be given.   Have fun, Peter but be careful. :)   I am replacing the old lights on my bench with LEDs They are the old four tube fixtures used in drop tile ceilings. I am gutting them and converting them to LED. They were OK when I installed them 20 years ago, but the quality of light went way down when they switched from 40W to 34W tubes. They won't light below 50F. and they have more flicker than the older tubes.   Harbor freight has some fixtures with the LEDs on sale for $20 right now for people who don't want to modify existing fixtures. Rural King farm stores have some, as well. Theirs are enclosed, unlike the ones at Harbor Freight.

Michael Terrell <terrell.michael.a@gmail.com>: Jan 30 04:26PM -0800 On Wednesday, January 29, 2020 at 12:08:07 PM UTC-5, amdx wrote: > suggest the modem/router could be the problem. > Computer shows speeds of 5GBPs to 38GBPs. Cable guy blames slow speed > of the computer on the computer.   Those packages are sold as 'Up to' speeds, not guaranteed speeds.   38 Gigabytes per second? REALLY?

Klay Anderson <mailserver.cctv@gmail.com>: Jan 30 09:16AM -0800 So--I've a tap and die set for plastic pipe (think sprinkler system). Any ideas for the best lube for threading same? Dry alone snaps the pipe. I think petroleum products will attack the plastic. Silicone?

tabbypurr@gmail.com: Jan 30 10:34AM -0800 On Thursday, 30 January 2020 17:16:47 UTC, Klay Anderson wrote: > So--I've a tap and die set for plastic pipe (think sprinkler system). Any ideas for the best lube for threading same? Dry alone snaps the pipe. I think petroleum products will attack the plastic. Silicone?   Silicone, soap, vegetable oil, maybe rubber-safe red grease. No idea which is best. If you're snapping the pipe you might be cutting too deep in one go. I don't know if warming it slightly would help.     NT

Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Jan 30 01:00PM -0600 On 1/30/20 11:16 AM, Klay Anderson wrote: > So--I've a tap and die set for plastic pipe (think sprinkler > system). Any ideas for the best lube for threading same? Dry > alone snaps the pipe. I think petroleum products will attack > the plastic. Silicone?   K-Y Jelly. Water based lubricant.     -- "I am a river to my people." Jeff-1.0 WA6FWi http:foxsmercantile.com

"pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Jan 30 11:49AM -0800 On Thursday, January 30, 2020 at 12:16:47 PM UTC-5, Klay Anderson wrote: > So--I've a tap and die set for plastic pipe (think sprinkler system). Any ideas for the best lube for threading same? Dry alone snaps the pipe. I think petroleum products will attack the plastic. Silicone?   Three things:   a) warm the pipe. Even a few degrees will make a large difference. Ideally, you will want the pipe to be just below the plastic stage, but unless you have a "bending box" don't try this at home. About 100F is close enough for your purposes. Anything below about 60F, it will be very brittle.   b) If you run lubricant over the pipe while cutting - such as with a Ridge Cutter - there will be no issues.   c) And if you never (repeat, NEVER) will need to use solvent fittings on that pipe, good old Vaseline will do the trick nicely.   Then, there is the obvious: Cut slowly. Cutting too fast overheats the pipe, and if you overshoot into the plastic stage, all you will do is make lots of scrap. Use only (repeat, ONLY) Schedule 80 or Schedule 120 pipe. Schedule 40 pipe is too thin to take a safe thread and also withstand any level of operating pressure. Did I mention: Use ONLY SCHEDULE 80 pipe, or better.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

etpm@whidbey.com: Jan 30 11:50AM -0800 On Thu, 30 Jan 2020 13:00:58 -0600, Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net> wrote:   >> the plastic. Silicone?   >K-Y Jelly. >Water based lubricant. Yeah, K-Y is good for screwing. Sorry. I couldn't help myself. Eric

"pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Jan 30 11:59AM -0800 > Yeah, K-Y is good for screwing. Sorry. I couldn't help myself. > Eric   But not for the stated purpose. Not enough persistence. When done in the field, contractors really prefer to use a Ridge Cutter for PVC or CPVC pipe.   https://www.zoro.com/static/cms/product/full/Z_J2L0fo5oy.JPG   Somehow, I don't think the OP wants to invest at that level, unless there is a great deal of "screwing" to be done....   Did I mention: Schedule 80 or 120 pipe only?   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

Michael Terrell <terrell.michael.a@gmail.com>: Jan 30 04:23PM -0800 On Thursday, January 30, 2020 at 12:16:47 PM UTC-5, Klay Anderson wrote: > So--I've a tap and die set for plastic pipe (think sprinkler system). Any ideas for the best lube for threading same? Dry alone snaps the pipe. I think petroleum products will attack the plastic. Silicone?   I had to thread some 1" Schedule 80 dry. No problems, other that I couldn't find anyone with a handle fot that large die when I needed it, so they were cut by hand. Don't force it. I did a quarter turn, backed the die off to clear the treads and took another pass until I had what I needed. I was making mounts for some GPS antennas for frequency and time standards. I had to pole mount them to clear a metal roof.

Tempestinatesttube <tempest@ina.com>: Jan 30 01:14PM -0500 > If your flyback is good, you may only need to "fix" the driver section.   > Peter Wieck > Melrose Park, PA   Ok, today, I have my hands on the borrowed unit. The kind soul who loaned it said to be prepared to shell out $50 if I end up "breaking it". Since they seem to go for well over that online, this isn't an end all, but I still want to be as careful as possible.   I think I'm going to start with my broken one by taking pictures of the components side and then the board side. I may try superimposing them together in Photoshop. It might make not only troubleshooting easier, but I *may* be able to draw a schematic later. Also, I shouldn't have to disassemble his at all, just readings from the underside once I know what is what.   At some point, I will post these images on imgur.

"pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Jan 30 11:54AM -0800 On Thursday, January 30, 2020 at 1:14:10 PM UTC-5, Tempestinatesttube wrote:   So far, you are following a good path!   Best of luck with it!

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