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Tempestinatesttube <tempest@ina.com>: Jan 28 11:29AM -0500 Hi, I just acquired one of the Smirnoff lightning lamps from a local sale. Unfortunately, it worked for an hour and then stopped and hasn't worked since. I took off the bottom cover which revealed a small flyback, what looks like a couple of mosfets, a driver transformer or two, and maybe a timer.   Specifically, it is called the "Smirnoff Tempest Bar Glorifier" made in Korea for Neu Solutions. Unfortunately, they haven't been made in nearly 20 years.   Does anyone know of a service manual and/or schematic for this device? I'm having no luck googling for it.   Fortunately, I am going to be able to borrow a working unit. If anyone wants to roll up their sleeves and help me troubleshoot using the working one as a template, please share. I'd be more than willing to post pictures of the circuit board, components, etc.   I think the first thing I will do with the working unit is take resistance readings of all components while off and discharged. Then, while on, take voltage readings of the same. I don't have enough experience to try reverse engineering a schematic which is why it would be oh so helpful to find one from the manufacturer.   Any information provided would be welcome. I'd really like to get my broken one back in working order again! Tips, measurements, etc welcome.   Thanks in advance, Tempy

gregz <zekor@comcast.net>: Jan 28 08:32AM > are generally worthless.   > Peter Wieck > Melrose Park, PA   I have seen long term damage, an example, ozone fish tank bubbler. Damaged varnish off back wood wall. Short tern cleansing I have not seen any signs. I have two ozoners, not the air fresheners. After 1 hour turned off, a room will have a cleansed smell, no odors. Odors can reseep out of wood etc. and may have to do again later. Sunlight creates ozone cleaning, and my mothers clothes dryer ozone bulb turned the wash into smells like on clothesline smell.   Greg

tabbypurr@gmail.com: Jan 28 06:16AM -0800 > Further to this, so-called "air cleaners" based on ozone are very similar to bug-zappers. They do not work, they can (and often do) cause harm and are generally worthless.   > Peter Wieck > Melrose Park, PA   The 'how is ozone harmful' section is pretty iffy. I've not read furtheer.     NT

Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Jan 28 09:37AM -0600 > The 'how is ozone harmful' section is pretty iffy. I've not read furtheer.   Maybe if you had read past the title.       -- "I am a river to my people." Jeff-1.0 WA6FWi http:foxsmercantile.com

amdx <nojunk@knology.net>: Jan 27 11:20AM -0600 > https://ibb.co/DWhZWKR > https://ibb.co/r2HWP7j   > The thing is o/c. It looks like a simple nonelectronic one, likely an easy fix if I work out how to open it!   I don't know how to get into it, but here's how that style works. Very simple, but advanced thinking went into it. > https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RSTNhvDGbYI I you don't want to hear about Latent heat of vaporization and boiling water skip to 4:40.   Mikek

tabbypurr@gmail.com: Jan 27 11:59AM -0800 > http://www.buffalo-appliances.com/media/manuals/exploded%20diagram%20j300.pdf   that looks like it pretty much. I couldn't read the brand in Chinese.   > Looks like some sort of snap-fit system. Are those black dots on the feet holes, or little rubber bits? If holes, you may be able to release the feet through them.   holes. The feet are integral with the base, nothing to remove. (I'll recheck that when I can.)   > Landfill, or not, I expect that you will find replacement with a more serviceable model to be the expedient choice.   There's really nothing wrong with it other than there being something wrong with it :) It may happen, but if I can open it it should be an quick easy job from then on.

"pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Jan 27 12:15PM -0800 I have seen devices that require a thin tool inserted into the holes (please, not when plugged in), to release internal tabs. Maybe that?   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

tabbypurr@gmail.com: Jan 28 06:12AM -0800 On Monday, 27 January 2020 19:59:10 UTC, tabby wrote:   > There's really nothing wrong with it other than there being something wrong with it :) It may happen, but if I can open it it should be an quick easy job from then on.   > > Peter Wieck > > Melrose Park, PA   Update time. Feet are moulded into the base. Turns out I'd overlooked the obvious. The base is fixed with one screw over on one side under a paper label - I just hadn't considered it might be fixed so oddly. And yes, an easy fix it is. It probably will get replaced with a more modern one, but it'll do for the week ahead. Thanks.     NT

Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Jan 28 09:32AM -0600 > And yes, an easy fix it is.   And what was that?     -- "I am a river to my people." Jeff-1.0 WA6FWi http:foxsmercantile.com

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Jan 27 10:52AM -0800 >Picked up a 1972 Taylor barograph.   <https://www.google.com/search?q=Taylor+barograph&tbm=isch>   >amount. I know there must be alternative slow drying inks out there >with different names at less cost that might be suitable. Any >suggestions would be welcome here.   Rubber stamp pad refill ink should work. It would not do to have the stamp pad dry out prematurely. <https://www.staples.com/stamp+pad+ink/directory_stamp%2520pad%2520ink> Basically, you need an ink that will not dry out in less time needed for the drum to rotate one full revolution. Graphing barometers are available at varying rotation speeds. The most common is 1 rev = 1 week, but is also available in 1 day and 1 month per revolution.   More: <https://www.metcheck.co.uk/collections/barograph-pens-and-ink> <http://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/topic/47798-chart-recorder-ink-options/> <https://www.ebay.com/itm/Barograph-Thermograph-Recording-Ink-Slow-Dry-Dark-Blue-5oz-15ml-/123902459872> <https://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/barograph-instrument-recording-pen-276775650> etc...   >Another thing I want to work on is the pen. The original is a tiny, >triangular shaped stainless steel reservoir. A drop of ink is placed in >the reservoir and this lasts until empty.   Forget about changing the type of pen. The arm and pen are part of a carefully balanced mechanism. If you add or reduce weight on the arm, you will need to rebalance the mechanism. A drop of ink in the pen is about as light a pen as could be easily contrived. I would continue to use it.   >again expensive. I'm wondering if I might be able to modify or use a >standard felt pen from the store somehow in this application. Further >suggestions appreciated.   Sorry. I haven't tried replacing the stock ink well and have no plans on trying to do so.   -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Jan 27 02:50PM -0800 On Mon, 27 Jan 2020 10:52:14 -0800, Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com> wrote:   ><https://www.ebay.com/itm/Barograph-Thermograph-Recording-Ink-Slow-Dry-Dark-Blue-5oz-15ml-/123902459872> ><https://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/barograph-instrument-recording-pen-276775650> >etc...   More of the same: <https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=recording+instrument+ink> <https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=barograph+recording+ink+slow+dry> <https://www.ebay.com/itm/ink-Universal-Bristols-Recorder-Ink-Waterbury-CT-Recording-Instrument-Ink/392645088431> -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Jan 27 03:20PM -0800 On Mon, 27 Jan 2020 14:50:45 -0800, Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com> wrote:   ><https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=recording+instrument+ink> ><https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=barograph+recording+ink+slow+dry> ><https://www.ebay.com/itm/ink-Universal-Bristols-Recorder-Ink-Waterbury-CT-Recording-Instrument-Ink/392645088431>   One more: <https://www.ebay.com/itm/Barograph-or-Instrument-recording-pen-for-use-with-ink/143313378165> Note the comment on felt tip pens causing pen drag and slowing response time.   To make a slow dry ink, I would guess that the ink should be high viscosity so that it doesn't drip or run. It should also be high surface tension to slow evaporation. The high surface tension is easy enough by adding a few drops of a wetting agent such as Kodak Photo Flo 200: <https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/28195-REG/Kodak_1464510_Photo_Flo_200_Solution.html> I don't know how to increase viscosity. Maybe add some more pigment or solids.       -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

dplatt@coop.radagast.org (Dave Platt): Jan 27 03:40PM -0800 In article <c7ru2ftiva01tpjscic0vvtaemen8vjpqq@4ax.com>, >enough by adding a few drops of a wetting agent such as Kodak Photo >Flo 200: ><https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/28195-REG/Kodak_1464510_Photo_Flo_200_Solution.html>   As I recall (and as that page states), Photo Flo is a surfactant, which _reduces_ the surface tension of the water. This makes it easier for the water to "wet" the surfaces to which it's applied. The water spreads out more quickly and (as the page says) "promote[s] faster, more uniform drying."   Probably not what you want, if you want ink to stay liquid.

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Jan 27 04:33PM -0800 On Mon, 27 Jan 2020 15:40:47 -0800, dplatt@coop.radagast.org (Dave Platt) wrote:   >water spreads out more quickly and (as the page says) "promote[s] >faster, more uniform drying."   >Probably not what you want, if you want ink to stay liquid.   Oops. Surfactants and wetting agents are used to reduce evaporation is correct. However, mangled everything else. To reduce evaporation, surface tension should be lowered, not raised. Surfactants and wetting agents lower surface tension. Adding Photo Flo to the ink will still reduce evaporation, but not in the manner that I originally described.   Study of Surface Tension, Natural Evaporation, and Subcooled Boiling Evaporation of Aqueous Surfactant Solutions <https://commons.erau.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=1304&context=edt>   Of course, nothing is simple:   Surface Tension and Evaporation <https://chemistry.stackexchange.com/questions/61813/surface-tension-and-evaporation>   -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

Stephen Wolstenholme <steve@easynn.com>: Jan 28 12:01PM >amount. I know there must be alternative slow drying inks out there >with different names at less cost that might be suitable. Any >suggestions would be welcome here.   I used a barograph when I was at school 60 years ago. The ink was water based and fed to a metal stylus through a flexible plastic tube. The tube occasionally got blocked. I just blew down the tube to clear it out. It made a blob on the chart. The ink didn't dry. It just soaked into the paper.   Steve   -- http://www.npsnn.com

John-Del <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Jan 27 03:41PM -0800 I have one of these old timers and the bar sweep and color sweep section isn't working. Strangely, there are color bars over the dot and cross hatch patterns which I don't recall being a normal situation. All the switches are clean and tight.   Anyway, I have the full owner's manual that includes maintenance and calibration instructions, but no actual schematic.   Does anyone have a schematic of the 500 generator board and parts layout for the same board? This is the only board where the component legends are not silk screened on the board, and there are at least 12 ICs - all 16 pins each, most of them the same number.

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