- Brady thermal printer problem - 3 Updates
- another dimmer smoked today outside thank goodness! - 11 Updates
- Diagnose this: - 1 Update
| "Miguel Giménez" <me@privacy.net>: Nov 24 04:31PM +0100 Hello I have a BBP11-34L Brady thermal printer, and it has worked well until I changed the ribbon about three months ago (I have installed 18 ribbons so far, so I think it is not an installation error). From then on, the printer prints two or three labels and stops in half of the next label indicating an error with the top LED turning red. If I press the top button the cycle repeats. If I raise the cover, the ribbon is adhered to the label, but it is easy to remove. I have cleaned the thermal head and the rollers, tried a new ribbon and new labels, changed head temperature, changed printing speed, tested using the USB interface and the Ethernet one... Always the same issue. Thank you in advance for any help. -- Best regards Miguel Giménez |
| "Peter W." <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Nov 24 07:48AM -0800 https://www.manualslib.com/manual/455613/Brady-Bbp11-34l.html?page=28#manual Have you been through the troubleshooting guide? Speculating wildly - it seems as if the print head is not hot enough so the ink does not separate cleanly from the ribbon to the label. Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA |
| "Miguel Giménez" <me@privacy.net>: Nov 24 05:38PM +0100 El 24/11/2020 a las 16:48, Peter W. escribió: > Have you been through the troubleshooting guide? Speculating wildly - it seems as if the print head is not hot enough so the ink does not separate cleanly from the ribbon to the label. > Peter Wieck > Melrose Park, PA Thenk you, that did the trick. I have cleaned all with ethanol, but the manual says the print head must be cleaned with 100 % acetone. -- Best regards Miguel Giménez |
| Chuck <chuck445@yahoonospam.com>: Nov 23 03:50PM -0500 Well, I have one additional so called "30 amp" Chinese dimmer remaining after the prior one smoked. This one had a circuit breaker and it did go today, but not before it started smoking. As I said, I have a good Astron power supply on the way to replace, but I still had the dimmer in place until then and outdoors. This time, I decided to open it up and see what's going on. As others have said, the Chinese tend to exaggerate ratings so "30 amp" was probably far from it, but I was surprised what I saw internally: two HY1707 Mosfets an LM358 a 78L05 a 555 timer At 12V, 7 amp load, it seems like it should have been able to handle the load, but I am wondering that since I was driving it with a switching supply, maybe that somehow affected the dimmer? By the way, the burnout was one of the HY1707's. Perhaps they actually need a heatsink instead of just being attached to the circuit board? That's absolutely all for the Chinese stuff. I had a constant voltage/ current module on the way, but not even going to open it. Can't trust it anymore. |
| "ohg...@gmail.com" <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Nov 23 01:09PM -0800 On Monday, November 23, 2020 at 3:50:47 PM UTC-5, Chuck wrote: > That's absolutely all for the Chinese stuff. I had a constant voltage/ > current module on the way, but not even going to open it. Can't trust > it anymore. A device like that needs a proper heatsink. Even if the metal tab is soldered to the PC it's still inadequate for high power applications. |
| Chuck <chuck445@yahoonospam.com>: Nov 23 04:13PM -0500 >> current module on the way, but not even going to open it. Can't trust >> it anymore. > A device like that needs a proper heatsink. Even if the metal tab is soldered to the PC it's still inadequate for high power applications. I think that's why they are burning up, then. Nothing else on the board was fried, only the one Mosfet. |
| Chuck <chuck445@yahoonospam.com>: Nov 23 04:17PM -0500 On 11/23/20 4:13 PM, Chuck wrote: >> soldered to the PC it's still inadequate for high power applications. > I think that's why they are burning up, then. Nothing else on the board > was fried, only the one Mosfet. Going back to my ham radio days, my 2 meter amps of 100 W had heatsinks of probably 4x6 and an inch or two thick, IIRC. Sometimes even a fan too. My guess is that would at the very least be needed for these dimmers and even that heatsink size will get it no where near say 300 W+. Shame on them. |
| John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Nov 23 02:39PM -0800 On 2020/11/23 12:50 p.m., Chuck wrote: > That's absolutely all for the Chinese stuff. I had a constant voltage/ > current module on the way, but not even going to open it. Can't trust > it anymore. No UL approval I'm sure. Why would you trust it then? Unregulated electrical junk sold on Amazon can be hazardous to your house or your family. John :-#(# |
| Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Nov 23 03:18PM -0800 John Robertson wrote: ================== > No UL approval I'm sure. ** What standard is there for such a device the runs on 12- 24V DC ?? > Why would you trust it then? ** UL does not check for good design or reliability. > Unregulated electrical junk sold on Amazon can be hazardous to your > house or your family. **True - but this is not a good example for that. ..... Phil |
| John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Nov 23 03:49PM -0800 On 2020/11/23 3:18 p.m., Phil Allison wrote: >> house or your family. > **True - but this is not a good example for that. > ...... Phil Fair enough, under - what is it - 32VAC is unregulated... John ;-#)# |
| "Peter W." <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Nov 24 06:42AM -0800 https://www.cui.com/blog/what-is-the-difference-between-ul-listed-and-ul-recognized https://store.intellaliftparts.com/blog/ul-csa-etl-ce-abbreviations/ Per the NEC and various codes, powered item permanently installed (in the USA) is required to carry a UL/ETL listing. Technically, any mains-attached (plug-in) item sold to the public (in the USA) is also required to carry a UL/ETL listing. At whatever operating voltage. UL Listed items made up of sub-assemblies will typically carry UR symbols on those sub-assemblies. Repairs made to such items must be with UR components. Where this gets cute: That junk from China is sold from, and originates in China, is typically shipped via subsidized Chinese Post, and directly to the consumer - thereby avoiding the letter of regulations and codes. And then there are here-today-gone-tomorrow resellers that get around the code by simply ignoring it. Making their consumers potential victims. https://www.galco.com/buy/Staco-Energy/3PN1010B?source=googleshopping&utm_source=adwords&utm_campaign=&gclid=CjwKCAiA-_L9BRBQEiwA-bm5fqpZoQpgdsKcuyerBdXTNjaU9OAZzWB_xlXjumLQK-2_lBh92pHqrxoCQPcQAvD_BwE This device carries a CSA mark. https://www.ebay.com/itm/20Amp-Variac-Transformer-Variable-AC-Voltage-Regulator-Metered-2000VA-0-130V/124023830503 This device does not. Note the difference in cost. That cost is not only for those obscene profits on the part of the manufacturer, but also for proper design, proper testing, basic quality control, insurance and all the other unnecessary niceties avoided by the resellers and their suppliers. So, the bottom line is that you get what you pay for, with all the consequences attached thereto. Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA |
| Chuck <chuck445@yahoonospam.com>: Nov 24 09:54AM -0500 On 11/24/20 9:42 AM, Peter W. wrote: > Where this gets cute: That junk from China is sold from, and originates in China, is typically shipped via subsidized Chinese Post, and directly to the consumer - thereby avoiding the letter of regulations and codes. And then there are here-today-gone-tomorrow resellers that get around the code by simply ignoring it. Making their consumers potential victims. > https://www.galco.com/buy/Staco-Energy/3PN1010B?source=googleshopping&utm_source=adwords&utm_campaign=&gclid=CjwKCAiA-_L9BRBQEiwA-bm5fqpZoQpgdsKcuyerBdXTNjaU9OAZzWB_xlXjumLQK-2_lBh92pHqrxoCQPcQAvD_BwE This device carries a CSA mark. > https://www.ebay.com/itm/20Amp-Variac-Transformer-Variable-AC-Voltage-Regulator-Metered-2000VA-0-130V/124023830503 This device does not. Note the difference in cost. That cost is not only for those obscene profits on the part of the manufacturer, but also for proper design, proper testing, basic quality control, insurance and all the other unnecessary niceties avoided by the resellers and their suppliers. So, the bottom line is that you get what you pay for, with all the consequences attached thereto. Yes, I definitely see that now. Unfortunately, I had really hoped to be able to use one of these dimmers because the linear supply is going to take up more space, but I will not sacrifice my safety for space. I do wonder about something like PC power supplies. I have some old Dell ones, many times used for other purposes (those three voltage rails sure come in handy sometimes), but none that I can see have any UL listings. I've had desktop PC's run for years 24/7 without incident. Anything that ever went bad was usually memory or hard drives and such. I've had a lot more trouble with laptops (but still not laptop power supplies... motherboards!), but that's a story for another day. |
| "Peter W." <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Nov 24 07:05AM -0800 https://www.cpumedics.com/dell-cpb09-000a-350w-power-supply-for-inspiron-530-531-vostro-400-studio-540-xps-8000-8100/?utm_source=googleshopping&utm_medium=cse&_vsrefdom=adwords&gclid=CjwKCAiA-_L9BRBQEiwA-bm5fot0mFXYGy4XdUEa0WJuHrkiygErfrh6ZpwTrkLXFBma4NFd4h_nExoCAlsQAvD_BwE https://www.cpumedics.com/dell-dk87p-240w-power-supply-with-2x-connectors-6-pin-for-optiplex-3050-5050-7050-inspiron-3668/?utm_source=googleshopping&utm_medium=cse&_vsrefdom=adwords&gclid=CjwKCAiA-_L9BRBQEiwA-bm5fvDBEvqtTAvR17GLXK6yGIeqzOcCCYc4zSUHOW1AaB3vBYqqUvmrwhoCExQQAvD_BwE If sold in the United States: There will not be a UL mark on a computer power supply. There will be a UR mark on a computer powers-supply. If there is neither, it is a knock-off. The power-supply is a sub-assembly. Not the main event. Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA |
| Chuck <chuck445@yahoonospam.com>: Nov 24 10:18AM -0500 On 11/24/20 10:05 AM, Peter W. wrote: > The power-supply is a sub-assembly. Not the main event. > Peter Wieck > Melrose Park, PA Interesting https://www.pcscsecurity.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/ULversusUR_PCSC.pdf Any external supplies I have do have the UR mark. Well, thanks for the info. Nice to learn something new everyday. I will no longer be tempted by the lure of the cheap Chinese eBay junk. I will say that, by all accounts, this should have been a decent dimmer judging by the components within but I now believe the lack of heatsinking was the reason for the failures. The internal design looks simple enough that, before I trash it, I may try and draw out a schematic since most of the schematics for this junk don't exist. |
| Tim R <timothy42b@aol.com>: Nov 23 10:17AM -0800 > guijarrosoy wrote: > Or a guitar amp, where most tubes end up that way over time. > ..... Phil That's considered a feature, not a bug. |
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