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Tim R <timothy42bach@gmail.com>: Aug 28 05:32AM -0700 On Friday, August 27, 2021 at 10:04:07 AM UTC-4, Peter W. wrote:   > Why go with a kluge when the real thing (and all the associated reliability thereto) is readily available?   > Peter Wieck > Melrose Park, PA How far would that read?   Power to my shed is underground, and I need to do some digging to fix some drainage. it would really help to know exactly where the 220 is routed. I suspect it's in the 6 to 8 inch deep range, given the slope, hopefully a little deeper some places. .

"Peter W." <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Aug 28 07:45AM -0700 > How far would that read?   > Power to my shed is underground, and I need to do some digging to fix some drainage. it would really help to know exactly where the 220 is routed. I suspect it's in the 6 to 8 inch deep range, given the slope, hopefully a little deeper some places. .   That is a low-voltage device, not for power lines. Underground cable tracers are very different animals, and substantially more costly. if all you need to do is 6-8" or so, borrow a decent metal detector and trace that way. You will be within inches - dig out that area by hand. In any case, do call your local One-Call service, it is free and often you have no idea of what may be down there. And they DO have the costly devices.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

Buddy <Buddy@Buddy.com>: Aug 28 08:09AM -0700 https://www.harborfreight.com/cable-tracker-94181.html?_br_psugg_q=wire+tracer   $25 US   Works well tracing house wiring. Just remember to turn off ALL circuit breakers in the mains panel.

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Aug 28 08:15AM -0700 On Sat, 28 Aug 2021 05:32:12 -0700 (PDT), Tim R   >Power to my shed is underground, and I need to do some digging to fix some drainage. it would really help to know exactly where the 220 is routed. I suspect it's in the 6 to 8 inch deep range, given the slope, hopefully a little deeper some places. .   The minimum depth of buried power cable varies from 6 inches to perhaps 24 inches. This might help: <https://www.hunker.com/12271976/depth-requirements-for-buried-electrical-cable> If the power cables are inside a steel pipe, none of the RF or induction methods of wire location will work. However, a common metal detector will work quite nicely at detecting the pipe.   Maybe call 811 (in the USA)? <https://call811.com>   Maybe hire an underground utility location service? <https://www.google.com/search?q=underground+utility+location+services>   -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com PO Box 272 http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Ben Lomond CA 95005-0272 Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

Ralph Mowery <rmowery42@charter.net>: Aug 28 12:05PM -0400 In article <s9kkig1ss05gtppneh44ckg3jqo6leni93@4ax.com>, jeffl@cruzio.com says...   > Maybe call 811 (in the USA)? > <https://call811.com>   Around here you can go to miss utility on the web or call 811. They only do the commercial power, phone, cable and gas. If you have your own wire from the house to an outbuilding or well they will not do it.   It is a free service. I have used them twice. Once when I had some stumps ground up that had roots that extended out about 10 feet from the tree. Good thing I did as the underground power cable was under a small tree stump so I told the grinder man to only go low enough the lawn mower would not hit the stump. A year later when I had a garage bulit and the foundation needed to be dug. The man only did the power line the 2nd time. They were not going to come out when I filled out the web page, but I called them and told them I knew the power line was probably in the way. They marked the power line but not the cable line. Sure enough the cable line was cut as it was about 2 feet inside the garage foundation. Cable people replaced it at no charge as I had called the utility people.

Chris K-Man <thekmanrocks@gmail.com>: Aug 27 12:42PM -0700 On Friday, August 27, 2021 at 11:45:48 AM UTC-4, John Robertson wrote: > (604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) > www.flippers.com > "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."   ______   So long story short: this lady and her brother lived next door to each other on the same street. When he passed, she sold her property and moved into his house. Included was this Onkyo receiver and CD player, and about four pairs of speakers all over the house.   You can just about imagine what I thought when I went min back and looked at how all of this was hooked up. The main speaker bus(A) is to the pair in the dining room. Bus B is where it starts to get hairy: the left speaker output goes to one of the speakers out on her deck, and the right terminal, as well as the surrounds and center, all had at least TWO SPEAKERS EACH hooked up to them!   Now she states that her brother ran it this way for years, and she just continued using it when she inherited the house, and this mess. Neither of them over drove it, just for background music from the built in tuner or the CD changer.   So I explained to her that it was improper to havr more than one speaker per terminal, let alone THREE, and that over time this affected the impedance, and caused the Onkyo to eventually overheat and probably blow a fuse. She says her brother worked in the stereo buisness for years. Hmmmm.   Sure enough, only one click after I turned it on, no delayed second click.   She said she doesn't care about "surround sound" and just wants to be able to hear the radio or her CDs. So I said she could probably just find ankther 10-15 year old receiver, plus a separate speaker sleector, and wire up her whole house that way. Or, just runn speakers A in stereo in the living room, speaker B left in e dining room, and speaker B right outside on the deck.

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Aug 27 04:12PM -0700 John Robertson wrote: =================== > with the line input to the item under test. The light should not glow > brightly except for initial turn-on, where it would be brightish, then > dim as the caps charge.   ** That crude idea has very limited application. The series resistance of the lamp plus the rather large voltage drop does not alloy many items to operate.   I use a Variac and a digital current meter when powering up anything on my bench.       ..... Phil

John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Aug 27 04:36PM -0700 On 2021/08/27 4:12 p.m., Phil Allison wrote:   > ..... Phil   Actually the dim bulb, say 100W, has a rather small cold resistance so it doesn't end up with a large voltage drop - yet limits the current. It works well for amplifiers, even tube amps, that don't draw more than perhaps 3A when running. In other words our jukebox amps. For anything higher powered I'd use a higher wattage bulb...   A variac (have a few of those) is a handy tool too, but the dim bulb can be left in circuit while you wander off to do other things and if that side of the room suddenly gets brighter you know something has happened that now needs attention.   Might you also have a High-Pot tester? Great for verifying insulation breakdown up to 2500VAC...(1200VAC for 120V requirements)   Comparing toys, what fun!   John :-#)#   -- (Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup) John's Jukes Ltd. MOVED to #7 - 3979 Marine Way, Burnaby, BC, Canada V5J 5E3 (604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) www.flippers.com "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Aug 27 05:05PM -0700 John Robertson wrote: ===================   > > I use a Variac and a digital current meter when powering up anything on my bench.   > Actually the dim bulb, say 100W, has a rather small cold resistance so > it doesn't end up with a large voltage drop - yet limits the current.   ** Total nonsense. In a 240VAC country, the hot resistance is nearly 600 ohm. This causes a huge voltage drop with 90% of what I service.   > A variac (have a few of those) is a handy tool too,   ** Indispensable in fact. Dial up as slowly as you like, avoiding all surges. Dial back to check regulation " drop out " conditions.     > be left in circuit while you wander off to do other things and if that > side of the room suddenly gets brighter you know something has happened > that now needs attention.   ** Yeah, OK but the item on test is running way below normal voltage. IMO a worthless tests.     > Might you also have a High-Pot tester? Great for verifying insulation   ** And destroying it. Cannot be used on normal working equipment.       ...... Phil

Chris K-Man <thekmanrocks@gmail.com>: Aug 27 01:01PM -0700 >would listen to me, you, or anyone anyway. It was the same >with the "sizzle and boom" smiley face audio graphic equalizer >settings. ___________ And the thing is, I've done so many CRT and flat screens with the patterns on DVE Blu Ray, that I've noticed a commonality in where the basic settings (Contrast, Brightness, Color, etc) end up via those patterns, that I could get almost any other TV too look the same way by memory! It's not rocket science.   It's undoing bad attitudes toward basic adjustment and calibration that's difficult - not doing the actual process.

"Peter W." <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Aug 27 09:56AM -0700 That was five (5) years ago. But:   Generalized warning: OEM belts for obsolete equipment are generally a bad choice, as those parts in may cases are as old and have sat around just as long as the parts inside the unit. I have had 100% success ordering generic O-rings from McMaster-Carr to the correct size, configuration and diameter (and at a fraction of the OEM cost). I have a choice of materials, O, [], D, 0 or otherwise, even toothed, and they are fresh.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

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