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Tim R <timothy42bach@gmail.com>: Aug 28 05:32AM -0700 On Friday, August 27, 2021 at 10:04:07 AM UTC-4, Peter W. wrote:   > Why go with a kluge when the real thing (and all the associated reliability thereto) is readily available?   > Peter Wieck > Melrose Park, PA How far would that read?   Power to my shed is underground, and I need to do some digging to fix some drainage. it would really help to know exactly where the 220 is routed. I suspect it's in the 6 to 8 inch deep range, given the slope, hopefully a little deeper some places. .

"Peter W." <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Aug 28 07:45AM -0700 > How far would that read?   > Power to my shed is underground, and I need to do some digging to fix some drainage. it would really help to know exactly where the 220 is routed. I suspect it's in the 6 to 8 inch deep range, given the slope, hopefully a little deeper some places. .   That is a low-voltage device, not for power lines. Underground cable tracers are very different animals, and substantially more costly. if all you need to do is 6-8" or so, borrow a decent metal detector and trace that way. You will be within inches - dig out that area by hand. In any case, do call your local One-Call service, it is free and often you have no idea of what may be down there. And they DO have the costly devices.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

Buddy <Buddy@Buddy.com>: Aug 28 08:09AM -0700 https://www.harborfreight.com/cable-tracker-94181.html?_br_psugg_q=wire+tracer   $25 US   Works well tracing house wiring. Just remember to turn off ALL circuit breakers in the mains panel.

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Aug 28 08:15AM -0700 On Sat, 28 Aug 2021 05:32:12 -0700 (PDT), Tim R   >Power to my shed is underground, and I need to do some digging to fix some drainage. it would really help to know exactly where the 220 is routed. I suspect it's in the 6 to 8 inch deep range, given the slope, hopefully a little deeper some places. .   The minimum depth of buried power cable varies from 6 inches to perhaps 24 inches. This might help: <https://www.hunker.com/12271976/depth-requirements-for-buried-electrical-cable> If the power cables are inside a steel pipe, none of the RF or induction methods of wire location will work. However, a common metal detector will work quite nicely at detecting the pipe.   Maybe call 811 (in the USA)? <https://call811.com>   Maybe hire an underground utility location service? <https://www.google.com/search?q=underground+utility+location+services>   -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com PO Box 272 http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Ben Lomond CA 95005-0272 Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

Ralph Mowery <rmowery42@charter.net>: Aug 28 12:05PM -0400 In article <s9kkig1ss05gtppneh44ckg3jqo6leni93@4ax.com>, jeffl@cruzio.com says...   > Maybe call 811 (in the USA)? > <https://call811.com>   Around here you can go to miss utility on the web or call 811. They only do the commercial power, phone, cable and gas. If you have your own wire from the house to an outbuilding or well they will not do it.   It is a free service. I have used them twice. Once when I had some stumps ground up that had roots that extended out about 10 feet from the tree. Good thing I did as the underground power cable was under a small tree stump so I told the grinder man to only go low enough the lawn mower would not hit the stump. A year later when I had a garage bulit and the foundation needed to be dug. The man only did the power line the 2nd time. They were not going to come out when I filled out the web page, but I called them and told them I knew the power line was probably in the way. They marked the power line but not the cable line. Sure enough the cable line was cut as it was about 2 feet inside the garage foundation. Cable people replaced it at no charge as I had called the utility people.

Chris K-Man <thekmanrocks@gmail.com>: Aug 27 12:42PM -0700 On Friday, August 27, 2021 at 11:45:48 AM UTC-4, John Robertson wrote: > (604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) > www.flippers.com > "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."   ______   So long story short: this lady and her brother lived next door to each other on the same street. When he passed, she sold her property and moved into his house. Included was this Onkyo receiver and CD player, and about four pairs of speakers all over the house.   You can just about imagine what I thought when I went min back and looked at how all of this was hooked up. The main speaker bus(A) is to the pair in the dining room. Bus B is where it starts to get hairy: the left speaker output goes to one of the speakers out on her deck, and the right terminal, as well as the surrounds and center, all had at least TWO SPEAKERS EACH hooked up to them!   Now she states that her brother ran it this way for years, and she just continued using it when she inherited the house, and this mess. Neither of them over drove it, just for background music from the built in tuner or the CD changer.   So I explained to her that it was improper to havr more than one speaker per terminal, let alone THREE, and that over time this affected the impedance, and caused the Onkyo to eventually overheat and probably blow a fuse. She says her brother worked in the stereo buisness for years. Hmmmm.   Sure enough, only one click after I turned it on, no delayed second click.   She said she doesn't care about "surround sound" and just wants to be able to hear the radio or her CDs. So I said she could probably just find ankther 10-15 year old receiver, plus a separate speaker sleector, and wire up her whole house that way. Or, just runn speakers A in stereo in the living room, speaker B left in e dining room, and speaker B right outside on the deck.

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Aug 27 04:12PM -0700 John Robertson wrote: =================== > with the line input to the item under test. The light should not glow > brightly except for initial turn-on, where it would be brightish, then > dim as the caps charge.   ** That crude idea has very limited application. The series resistance of the lamp plus the rather large voltage drop does not alloy many items to operate.   I use a Variac and a digital current meter when powering up anything on my bench.       ..... Phil

John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Aug 27 04:36PM -0700 On 2021/08/27 4:12 p.m., Phil Allison wrote:   > ..... Phil   Actually the dim bulb, say 100W, has a rather small cold resistance so it doesn't end up with a large voltage drop - yet limits the current. It works well for amplifiers, even tube amps, that don't draw more than perhaps 3A when running. In other words our jukebox amps. For anything higher powered I'd use a higher wattage bulb...   A variac (have a few of those) is a handy tool too, but the dim bulb can be left in circuit while you wander off to do other things and if that side of the room suddenly gets brighter you know something has happened that now needs attention.   Might you also have a High-Pot tester? Great for verifying insulation breakdown up to 2500VAC...(1200VAC for 120V requirements)   Comparing toys, what fun!   John :-#)#   -- (Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup) John's Jukes Ltd. MOVED to #7 - 3979 Marine Way, Burnaby, BC, Canada V5J 5E3 (604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) www.flippers.com "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Aug 27 05:05PM -0700 John Robertson wrote: ===================   > > I use a Variac and a digital current meter when powering up anything on my bench.   > Actually the dim bulb, say 100W, has a rather small cold resistance so > it doesn't end up with a large voltage drop - yet limits the current.   ** Total nonsense. In a 240VAC country, the hot resistance is nearly 600 ohm. This causes a huge voltage drop with 90% of what I service.   > A variac (have a few of those) is a handy tool too,   ** Indispensable in fact. Dial up as slowly as you like, avoiding all surges. Dial back to check regulation " drop out " conditions.     > be left in circuit while you wander off to do other things and if that > side of the room suddenly gets brighter you know something has happened > that now needs attention.   ** Yeah, OK but the item on test is running way below normal voltage. IMO a worthless tests.     > Might you also have a High-Pot tester? Great for verifying insulation   ** And destroying it. Cannot be used on normal working equipment.       ...... Phil

Chris K-Man <thekmanrocks@gmail.com>: Aug 27 01:01PM -0700 >would listen to me, you, or anyone anyway. It was the same >with the "sizzle and boom" smiley face audio graphic equalizer >settings. ___________ And the thing is, I've done so many CRT and flat screens with the patterns on DVE Blu Ray, that I've noticed a commonality in where the basic settings (Contrast, Brightness, Color, etc) end up via those patterns, that I could get almost any other TV too look the same way by memory! It's not rocket science.   It's undoing bad attitudes toward basic adjustment and calibration that's difficult - not doing the actual process.

"Peter W." <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Aug 27 09:56AM -0700 That was five (5) years ago. But:   Generalized warning: OEM belts for obsolete equipment are generally a bad choice, as those parts in may cases are as old and have sat around just as long as the parts inside the unit. I have had 100% success ordering generic O-rings from McMaster-Carr to the correct size, configuration and diameter (and at a fraction of the OEM cost). I have a choice of materials, O, [], D, 0 or otherwise, even toothed, and they are fresh.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

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"Dušan Köszeghy" <dusan.koszeghy@gmail.com>: Aug 27 09:18AM -0700 > Will update the post when I get the spares. > Best regards, > Rupert   Hello Rupert, how did it work? I have same issue. First of all. i have UD-M30 on which the tray would not open. I found sort of loosen rubber belt. Replaced it and everything was ok. then, as we dont listen to cds very often, it got loosen again (the belt) and i decided to replace it as i had same from previous purchase. Found out that after inserting cd it does not spin. Only spin it does for like a second is when i switch to CD from previous TAPE source.   Meanwhile i ordered the whole mechanism, so perhaps it will help.

Chris K-Man <thekmanrocks@gmail.com>: Aug 26 12:55PM -0700 > The easiest thing to have the customer check is the sound of the protection relay releasing/engaging. Turn on the unit and listen for a click. If none, then there is a problem with the output section and the protection circuit is engaged preventing the speakers from connecting. This can be caused by many things in the output section.   > When you get this for repair, look at the driver ICs (uPC1298V) for poor connections. This is a common failure point. Check any voltage regulators for poor connections as well.   > Dan ____   On my personal JVC receiver, there's a click almost concurrent with pressing the power button, then about two seconds later, a second click, after which I can hear sound. Is that the click I should listen for on hers?

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Aug 26 02:44PM -0700 Chris K-Man wrote: ===============   > On my personal JVC receiver, there's a click almost concurrent with > pressing the power button, then about two seconds later, a second click, > after which I can hear sound. Is that the click I should listen for on hers?   ** The first click is the power relay - it turns on the main PSU. The second is the muting/ protect relay.   BTW brand names are not models and models all differ.       ...... Phil

dplatt@coop.radagast.org (Dave Platt): Aug 26 02:48PM -0700 In article <7a578025-ca3f-450c-aa4f-dd44cc3e074fn@googlegroups.com>,   >On my personal JVC receiver, there's a click almost concurrent with >pressing the power button, then about two seconds later, a second click, >after which I can hear sound. Is that the click I should listen for on hers?   Probably, yes. The first "click" would be a relay closing in the primary AC-power circuit, turning in the main power supply to the tuner and preamp and the amplifier. The second "click" would be the output (speaker-protection) relay closing, connecting the amplifier output to the speakers. This approach protects the speakers, and eliminates any bothersome "POP" when the DC power comes on.   In most such designs, the second "click" won't happen if there's been a failure in the amplifier or power supply circuit which would allow damaging DC voltage to be sent to the speakers. It can also happen as a result of a problem in the circuit which detects such failures.   A few years ago I diagnosed a huge Heathkit amplifier which wouldn't make music... the output relay never operated and the red "FAULT" light stayed on. It turned out to be a simple matter... a tiny (1/8-ampere) fuse providing power to one channel's input circuitry had opened up due to old age, and this created a DC-voltage fault that was caught by the protection circuitry. Simply replacing the fuse fixed the problem.   Another possible problem can be the relay itself - sometimes the contacts get dirty or arc-damaged, and won't make a proper circuit. This _usually_ seems to happen on only one channel, not on both at the same time... replacing the relay is the best solution in these cases.

root <NoEMail@home.org>: Aug 27 04:47AM Sorry for jumping into a continuing thread, but I 've had trouble with Onkyo an receiver, but I found a very interesting thing: they can heal themselves. The tuner on my first Onkyo failed. Since everything else worked I put the receiver aside and bought a new Onkyo. After a couple of weeks I decided I wanted to swap it out for a Denon. So I packed up the new Onkyo, and before I could return it I went back to the old Onkyo and the tuner was working, as was everything else. The tuner healed itself by sitting idle for a couple of weeks. Sometime later the sound went out, and this time I just unplugged the unit for a couple of days and, again the unit worked fine.   I still have the Onkyo, but I did switch to a Denon because I got a 4K display.

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Aug 26 10:18PM -0700 root wrote: ========= ------------------------------------------------------------------   ** That is called an " intermittent fault " in the repair business.   When the unit works fine most of the time, they are often near impossible to track down.     ..... Phil

John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Aug 26 11:50PM -0700 On 2021/08/26 10:18 p.m., Phil Allison wrote:   > ** That is called an " intermittent fault " in the repair business.   > When the unit works fine most of the time, they are often near impossible to track down.   > ..... Phil   Indeed!   I use the "Thump Test" (patent pending) when dealing with intermittents - it does turn up a fair percentage of bugs. Just today I spotted an electrolytic cap that wiggled slightly when the case was lightly thumped. Turned out one lead was not actually connected to the solder (the joys of single sided PCBs), and the cap was a loose connection causing other parts to fire (a strobe system) seemingly at random. This was easy to fix, as it failed periodically, but only when tapped/thumped.   Other times not so lucky.   John :-#)#

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Aug 27 12:31AM -0700 John Robertson wrote: ===================== > (the joys of single sided PCBs), and the cap was a loose connection > causing other parts to fire (a strobe system) seemingly at random. This > was easy to fix, as it failed periodically, but only when tapped/thumped.   --------------------------------------------   ** That technique is known as " percussive maintenance ".   Another technique is " tune for maximum smoke". This involves a source of high current connected to a DC rail shorted to ground. One increases the voltage gradually while looking for smoke signals.     .... Phil

John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Aug 27 08:45AM -0700 On 2021/08/27 12:31 a.m., Phil Allison wrote: > This involves a source of high current connected to a DC rail shorted to ground. > One increases the voltage gradually while looking for smoke signals.   > .... Phil   We also use the "dim light test" where you put a light bulb in series with the line input to the item under test. The light should not glow brightly except for initial turn-on, where it would be brightish, then dim as the caps charge.   Regulated power supplies are the technicians friend - where you can dial up the current available...   John :-#)#     -- (Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup) John's Jukes Ltd. MOVED to #7 - 3979 Marine Way, Burnaby, BC, Canada V5J 5E3 (604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) www.flippers.com "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."

None <none@nospam.invalid>: Aug 26 04:46PM -0500 On Wed, 25 Aug 2021 12:09:38 -0700, thekma # shortbus.edu   > Good call - Someone finally bit at your troll bait. You must be so prou   > So how can I, among many people, help turn the tide against > public acceptance of such a garish factory image - be it Home or > Store mode?   Maybe by obsessive trolling on Usenet, getting maybe a single hit every three or four years? That's not a smart way to achieve your goal, but you're not a very smart retard.   > How to educate them otherwise?   Definitely by ko0k-dansing on a usenet hobby horse. Yeah, that's the ticket! That's the way to reach the masses! At least usenet trolling won't get you kicked out of restaurants and TV stores for being an obsessive douche bag.

"ohg...@gmail.com" <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Aug 27 08:21AM -0700 On Thursday, August 26, 2021 at 5:46:42 PM UTC-4, None wrote: > ticket! That's the way to reach the masses! At least usenet trolling won't > get you kicked out of restaurants and TV stores for being an obsessive > douche bag.   Dude, you need help, and I mean bad. The best advice would be to just let your hate go. Not only is that guy living rent free in your head, he's using your utilities at no charge. I'm serious. The only reaction you're getting with your trolling rants is either laughter or pity. Think about it

"ohg...@gmail.com" <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Aug 27 08:25AM -0700 On Wednesday, August 25, 2021 at 3:09:41 PM UTC-4, Chris K-Man wrote:     > I would estimate, since the mid-2000s, that millions of consumers > automatically associate such overblown settings with HD and or 4K. > How to educate them otherwise?   Why? They're happy with those crappy settings. Ignorance is bliss - let them be I say. Those settings are hard for me to watch, but I don't think anyone who likes cartoonishly bad video would listen to me, you, or anyone anyway. It was the same with the "sizzle and boom" smiley face audio graphic equalizer settings.

three_jeeps <jjhudak@gmail.com>: Aug 26 11:30AM -0700 I need to trace some cables (phone catv, ethernet) throughout a house. An inexpensive tone generator would work but I don't have one. Any recommendations for an inexpensive one? or alternatives? I rigged a 1.5V battery holder with alligator clips to be used in conjunction with a modified LED 'probe' flashlight which will work. Looking for alternative ideas. I did make a 'break out box' for the rj45 and rj11 sockets where needed. Thanks j

John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Aug 26 11:57AM -0700 On 2021/08/26 11:30 a.m., three_jeeps wrote: > I did make a 'break out box' for the rj45 and rj11 sockets where needed. > Thanks > j   If you have an old portable AM radio you can whip up an electrical noise/spark generator that you hook to one end of the wire then track it through the house using the radio.   Not so many hand held radios lying around these days though...   John :-#)#   -- (Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup) John's Jukes Ltd. MOVED to #7 - 3979 Marine Way, Burnaby, BC, Canada V5J 5E3 (604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) www.flippers.com "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."

Rob <nomail@example.com>: Aug 26 09:56PM +0200 > noise/spark generator that you hook to one end of the wire then track it > through the house using the radio.   > Not so many hand held radios lying around these days though...   At work, we have a device that works like that. It contains a kind of AM radio at one end and a simple "transmitter" (AM modulated generator) for the other end. You clip the transmit side to a cable and it is able to detect the other end of the cable within like a 10cm (4") range.   It is intended to find connection points on MDF/LDF, network patch panels, etc etc.   Indeed it should be possible to build something like this yourself, or simply use a radio and a "short range AM transmitter" module.

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Aug 26 02:48PM -0700 three_jeeps wrote: ===============   > I need to trace some cables (phone catv, ethernet) throughout a house.   ** Did you mean * identify* cables or find the actual path ?   > An inexpensive tone generator would work but I don't have one.   ** What would you do if you did?   Why not use a AA cell and an LED ?     ...... Phil

"Peter W." <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Aug 27 07:04AM -0700 On Thursday, August 26, 2021 at 2:30:11 PM UTC-4, three_jeeps wrote: > I need to trace some cables (phone catv, ethernet) throughout a house.   https://www.homedepot.com/p/Klein-Tools-Tone-and-Probe-Tester-and-Tracer-Kit-VDV500-705/311456018   https://www.amazon.com/s?k=tone+and+probe+tester&crid=3972PA7CBL6GT&sprefix=tone+and+prombe%2Caps%2C152&ref=nb_sb_ss_sc_1_15   No further than your local big-box and/or Amazon.   Why go with a kluge when the real thing (and all the associated reliability thereto) is readily available?   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

Yaseen Ansari <yaseenansari1@gmail.com>: Aug 26 05:24PM -0700 On Monday, October 12, 2009 at 10:58:30 AM UTC-7, JA wrote: > hex) or helping me finding a tool to do this? > Best Regards > AC     Hi, I am looking for similar tool. Did you find a solution?   YA

Donald Duck <donald.duck@disney.com>: Aug 27 02:15AM > I > am looking for similar tool. Did you find a solution?   > YA   Idiot google grouper.   The article to which you replied was written twelve (12) years ago.

John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Aug 26 10:06PM -0700 On 2021/08/26 5:24 p.m., Yaseen Ansari wrote: > I > am looking for similar tool. Did you find a solution?   > YA   Yaseen, there are DOS based programs for binary/Hex file splitting with respect to EPROM programming. Can't recall the name but a bit of searching should lead to the answer. This was talked to death back in the late 90s and early 00s, so you should be able to track it down.   12 years is not a record for oldest Usenet post responded to!   John ;-#)#

"ohg...@gmail.com" <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Aug 26 12:53PM -0700 This had some battery leakage and the resultant corrosion opened some fine traces on the bottom side of the board, but there are also a small handful of smd devices that were also damaged and I can't read the print on them. I don't know the "series" of this unit, but the schematic I need would have a CA3080E in location U905 near the battery door. Any help appreciated.

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Chris K-Man <thekmanrocks@gmail.com>: Aug 25 12:04PM -0700 Onkyo TX-SV70 Pro Amp-Tuner - Display But No Sound   The owner states that "all the buttons do something" on the front display when she presses them, but she hears no sound out of the speakers attached to it.   I asked her to make sure she had selected the correct speaker group(A or B). Still no sound. She was tuned to a known good local radio station.   Any other suggestions?

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Aug 25 02:23PM -0700 Chris K-Man wrote: ================= > group(A or B). Still no sound. She was tuned to a known good > local radio station.   > Any other suggestions?   ** Speaker relay not closing is likely. Blown internal fuses another.     ....... Phil

whit3rd <whit3rd@gmail.com>: Aug 26 02:18AM -0700 On Wednesday, August 25, 2021 at 12:04:07 PM UTC-7, Chris K-Man wrote:   > The owner states that "all the buttons do something" on > the front display when she presses them, but she hears no > sound out of the speakers attached to it.   So, she's tried the 'tape monitor' button, and that didn't fix the problem?

Chris K-Man <thekmanrocks@gmail.com>: Aug 26 02:53AM -0700 On Thursday, August 26, 2021 at 5:18:59 AM UTC-4, whit3rd wrote: > > the front display when she presses them, but she hears no > > sound out of the speakers attached to it. > So, she's tried the 'tape monitor' button, and that didn't fix the problem? ______   I'll check all that when I visit the customer

abrsvc <dansabrservices@yahoo.com>: Aug 26 06:19AM -0700 On Thursday, August 26, 2021 at 5:53:39 AM UTC-4, Chris K-Man wrote: > > So, she's tried the 'tape monitor' button, and that didn't fix the problem? > ______   > I'll check all that when I visit the customer The easiest thing to have the customer check is the sound of the protection relay releasing/engaging. Turn on the unit and listen for a click. If none, then there is a problem with the output section and the protection circuit is engaged preventing the speakers from connecting. This can be caused by many things in the output section.   When you get this for repair, look at the driver ICs (uPC1298V) for poor connections. This is a common failure point. Check any voltage regulators for poor connections as well.   Dan

"ohg...@gmail.com" <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Aug 25 10:09AM -0700 On Sunday, August 22, 2021 at 7:12:36 AM UTC-4, Chris K-Man wrote:   > I have an interesting question for all of you:   > What do you think of the quality/characteristics of the picture > you see on new TVs on display in stores?   They're cartoonishly inaccurate - but intentionally so. When there are 50 displays on the wall all running at the same time, the one with most bizarre colors and brightness is the one most people will pick as the best picture.   When setting up a new TV for home, most have a "home" or "store" or "demo" option. The home setting sets the LED array brightness to 100% by default. The store or demo mode sets it for 110 plus percent for the same reason.   I remember the time my softball team was at a bar after a game, and they had a Sharp Aquos 60" in default settings. The grass on the infield of the game we were watching that was on was a weird fluorescent green, the blacks were dark blue, and it was overly bright. One of the guys was impressed with that mess of a picture and asked if I could adjust his Sony to look like that. I said I could try, but wasn't sure if I could get his Sony to look that bad on purpose. He of course was shocked but when I asked if he ever saw grass that color, the light went off.

Chris K-Man <thekmanrocks@gmail.com>: Aug 25 12:09PM -0700 > They're cartoonishly inaccurate - but intentionally so. When there are 50 displays on the wall all running at the same time, the one with most bizarre colors and brightness is the one most people will pick as the best picture.   > When setting up a new TV for home, most have a "home" or "store" or "demo" option. The home setting sets the LED array brightness to 100% by default. The store or demo mode sets it for 110 plus percent for the same reason.   > I remember the time my softball team was at a bar after a game, and they had a Sharp Aquos 60" in default settings. The grass on the infield of the game we were watching that was on was a weird fluorescent green, the blacks were dark blue, and it was overly bright. One of the guys was impressed with that mess of a picture and asked if I could adjust his Sony to look like that. I said I could try, but wasn't sure if I could get his Sony to look that bad on purpose. He of course was shocked but when I asked if he ever saw grass that color, the light went off. _______   Good call - with the grass that is!   So how can I, among many people, help turn the tide against public acceptance of such a garish factory image - be it Home or Store mode?   I would estimate, since the mid-2000s, that millions of consumers automatically associate such overblown settings with HD and or 4K. How to educate them otherwise?

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