sci.electronics.repair - 15 new messages in 7 topics - digest

sci.electronics.repair
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair?hl=en

sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Today's topics:

* Trying to get into the BIOS - 5 messages, 3 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/fd87ae1ce28c1c89?hl=en
* Porcelain thermally conductive insulators ? - 2 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/b69decd6bfa03d8b?hl=en
* Would you stop for a moment?! - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/579e72d06bf9acbe?hl=en
* WORLD BEST HOT PICS - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/dd2ad7fde462a6a1?hl=en
* Request transistor cross reference - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/6d311b79499b89d6?hl=en
* minidisc player shows track but won't play tracks - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/305742f0844c5c34?hl=en
* Mopar model 812 car radio, (early 1950's Chrysler product) - 4 messages, 4
authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/3135639c17d6af1d?hl=en

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Trying to get into the BIOS
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/fd87ae1ce28c1c89?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 5 ==
Date: Tues, Apr 19 2011 3:00 pm
From: Mike Tomlinson

In article <ae9451d8-53fc-4e47-88be-d8d6bdc4adbc@m23g2000prl.googlegroup
s.com>, mike <mlightner@survivormail.com> writes

>Guess my luck is lacking, I tried entering a few different values in
>DEBUG as found here and there, to no effect so far...

Try the ctbios utility from here:

http://www.biosflash.com/e/bios-passwords.htm

the output is in German, but not hard to follow. That may show you what
the password is.

I had the same problem with an HP Vectra VL420 motherboard last week.
This uses a modified Asus P4B-MX board. An unknown password was set on
the BIOS setup so I could not configure the machine.

The debug trick worked to deliberately cause a CMOS checksum error, but
it didn't get rid of the password. Googling found me a link with a tip
to set a certain jumper to clear the passwords and that worked.

I tried the ctbios utility above but that didn't show me anything that
looked like a password.

If you google for "BIOS backdoor password" or "BIOS master password"
you'll get a lot of hits with lists of different passwords to try.

There will be a way to do it, just persevere.

--
(\__/)
(='.'=)
(")_(")

== 2 of 5 ==
Date: Tues, Apr 19 2011 3:29 pm
From: David Nebenzahl

On 4/19/2011 11:44 AM Geoffrey S. Mendelson spake thus:

> By two days, almost every posting on every group has befallen
> Godwin's Law or Mendelson's corollary (change calling someone a NAZI
> in Godwin's to reference to the Wikipedia).

Heh; I do agree that that is an excellent reason for swift thread
termination!

--
The current state of literacy in our advanced civilization:

yo
wassup
nuttin
wan2 hang
k
where
here
k
l8tr
by

- from Usenet (what's *that*?)

== 3 of 5 ==
Date: Tues, Apr 19 2011 5:43 pm
From: mike

On Apr 19, 4:19 pm, "Geoffrey S. Mendelson" <g...@mendelson.com>
wrote:

>
> try "bcndk1" (I found that by googling "baracuda bios password")
>
Bingo! Geoff, your google-fu is incredible, I never would have
thought to try that.

I got right into the bios, disabled write protect and the passwords,
then was able to
go flash the board into the most recent bios version. Sure was nice
to see the flash program complete like it was supposed to.

Many thanks!
Mike

> Geoff.
>
> --
> Geoffrey S. Mendelson N3OWJ/4X1GM
> Those who cannot remember the past are condemned to misquote it.

== 4 of 5 ==
Date: Tues, Apr 19 2011 5:54 pm
From: mike

On Apr 19, 3:45 am, who where <no...@home.net> wrote:
> On Mon, 18 Apr 2011 12:54:58 -0700 (PDT), mike
>

> Failing that, locate a copy of KILLCMOS, a small utility that writes
> to cmos RAM and *causes* a checksum error there. The result is that
> on a subsequent bootup you will be directed to setup (without
> requiring a pswd) where you can clear the pswd requirement.

When I tried out KILLCMOS I guess it really did kill it cause the
computer
shut down all on it's own - had a few minutes there I thought I was
SOL,
but it came back on when I cycled power to the 'puter - whew!

I think that somehow the flash memory was being refreshed after each
onslaught
against the checksums or whatever it was that those debug routines do.

== 5 of 5 ==
Date: Tues, Apr 19 2011 6:00 pm
From: mike

On Apr 19, 6:00 pm, Mike Tomlinson <m...@jasper.org.uk> wrote:

>
> Try the ctbios utility from here:
>
> http://www.biosflash.com/e/bios-passwords.htm
>
> the output is in German, but not hard to follow. That may show you what
> the password is.
>
> I had the same problem with an HP Vectra VL420 motherboard last week.
> This uses a modified Asus P4B-MX board. An unknown password was set on
> the BIOS setup so I could not configure the machine.
>
> The debug trick worked to deliberately cause a CMOS checksum error, but
> it didn't get rid of the password. Googling found me a link with a tip
> to set a certain jumper to clear the passwords and that worked.
>
> I tried the ctbios utility above but that didn't show me anything that
> looked like a password.
>
> If you google for "BIOS backdoor password" or "BIOS master password"
> you'll get a lot of hits with lists of different passwords to try.
>
> There will be a way to do it, just persevere.

Thanks for the link, I'll be checking that out tomorrow, but in my
leisure, as Geoff M. was able to come up with the right password -
what a great group!

Thanks to you all,
Mike
>
> --
> (\__/)
> (='.'=)
> (")_(")

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Porcelain thermally conductive insulators ?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/b69decd6bfa03d8b?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Tues, Apr 19 2011 4:11 pm
From: "Barry"

"Baron" <baron@linuxmaniac.net> wrote in message
news:iokrbf$ma5$1@dont-email.me...
>
> Both Aluminum oxide and Beryllium oxide are extremely hard materials.
> I
> belive that the pink dye was used later to specifically identify
> Beryllium. So its a good chance that the white insulators that you
> have are Aluminum oxide. Even so its not a good idea to try to grind
> them.

Beryllia is white, the same as alumina. There is no standard on coloring
beryllia insulators for use as heat transfer links. No dye is used as
the beryllia is sintered (fired) at very high temperatures. Instead a
colored inorganic metal oxide is added in small amounts. Beryllia has
about seven to ten times the thermal conductivity of alumina, so if the
links were used with high power parts, they are probably beryllia.
Beryllia has about one third better thermal conductivity than aluminum
nitride in the 25 to 300 C temperature range. Only diamond and cubic
boron nitride are better thermal conductors (but at an exceptionally high
cost).

Until you know for sure what these insulators are made of, treat them as
beryllia. I.e., do not grind or crush them.

73, Dr. Barry L. Ornitz WA4VZQ

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Tues, Apr 19 2011 5:42 pm
From: "Michael A. Terrell"

Baron wrote:
> Both Aluminum oxide and Beryllium oxide are extremely hard materials. I
> belive that the pink dye was used later to specifically identify
> Beryllium.

The 4CX250 transmitter tubes I used had white BeO ceramic insulators.

--
You can't fix stupid. You can't even put a Band-Aid� on it, because it's
Teflon coated.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Would you stop for a moment?!
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/579e72d06bf9acbe?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Tues, Apr 19 2011 4:27 pm
From: "Dave Plowman (News)"

In article
<eced2fec-521a-4a2e-9165-0cc1e3007c82@t19g2000prd.googlegroups.com>,
spamtrap1888 <spamtrap1888@gmail.com> wrote:
> > Very stupid thing to do given how many are addicted to it.

> Enjoy your Baptist heaven of cola and liquorice all-sorts, heretic.

I'm not religious.

> >
> > > Yet Mohammed wrote that wine comes from
> > > Satan. (Sura 5, Verse 92)
> >
> > He obviously could enjoy himself without needing drugs.

> Wine is a food, and represents the Blood of Christ later in the story.

One of the other things that denies reason. Drinking another's blood.
Probably written after drink taken.

--
*How can I miss you if you won't go away?

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: WORLD BEST HOT PICS
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/dd2ad7fde462a6a1?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Tues, Apr 19 2011 4:59 pm
From: SAILAJA LOVES U

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Request transistor cross reference
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/6d311b79499b89d6?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Tues, Apr 19 2011 5:39 pm
From: "Barry"

"Jeff Liebermann" <jeffl@cruzio.com> wrote in message
news:5u2qq614338c9b6t4a7m9embfcde42il53@4ax.com...
> On Mon, 18 Apr 2011 23:43:35 -0400, "Barry" <none@nospam.org> wrote:
>
>>To begin, it is really a conventional NPN, not an IGBT.
>
> I'm not sure. Getting a Vce(sat) of 2V at 30A is a difficult feat
> with most conventional NPN xsistors. Low saturation voltage is the
> major benefit of IGBT. However, the original data sheet specifies the
> device beta, which is not normally specified with an IGBT, which acts
> more like a MOSFET.
>
>>> From the original data sheet at:
>>> <http://www.datasheets.org.uk/T30G40*-datasheet.html>
>>> With a saturation voltage of 2V at 30A, it's certainly an IGBT.
>>
>>Look at the very high base current. This is how the low Vce(sat) is
>>obtained. Also note the Vbe(sat).
>
> Ib = 5Amps and Vbe(sat) = 2.5V. Now, I'm sure it's an IGBT. Such a
> high base voltage and current is a characteristic of IGBT devices. See
> typical curves at:
> <http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:IvsV_IGBT.png>
> If it were an NPN transistor, the curves would be compressed around
> Vbe(sat) = 0.7v to 1.0v (or slightly more if it has emitter current
> balancing resistors inside) and have an upward slope.

Much beyond a volt or so, the curves should be linear, i.e. the Shockley
relationship becomes dominated by a pure resistance. I would expect the
device has multiple emitter balancing resistors to keep a hot spot from
forming at high currents.

> I'm still undecided if it's an IGBT or a common xsistor, but I'm
> begining to agree with you.
>
>>> I'll guess the package is a TO-264 or TO-3PL
>>
>>It's a TO-247 case.
>
> I beg to differ (again). The original T30G40 data sheet shows the
> package as 20.5 x 26.5 mm with a 3.3mm hole. The TO-247 package is
> 16.0 x 21 mm with a 3.0mm hole. The TO-264 is 20 x 20 mm with a 3.3mm
> hole. Neither is a perfect match, but methinks the TO-264 is closer,
> especially due to having the same larger hole size.
> <http://www.fairchildsemi.com/products/discrete/pdf/to247pdd_dim.pdf>
> <http://www.fairchildsemi.com/products/discrete/pdf/to264.pdf>

My bad. I only looked at the lead spacing. With an obsolete part with
unusual specs, matching the case is just icing on the cake. Matching the
electrical specs is usually difficult enough.

>>Actually starting the search with the package style,
>>in my opinion, is a poor place to start.
>
> I beg to differ (yet again). Finding a suitable replacement that
> doesn't fit in whatever is being repaired is rather useless. By
> reducing the search to only those items that can actually be used as a
> physical substitute, the search scope is drastically reduced.
>
>>You need to match the critical
>>specs first. In this case, high breakdown voltage, high current, and
>>low
>>saturation voltage were the critical specs to match first.
>
> I went for package, Vceo(max), Vce(sat), Ic(max), and Pt(max) in that
> order.

I chose Vceo, Ic, Pt, and Vce(sat) and left the case as "icing."
Mounting arrangements can be modified, but you cannot change the
electrical specs.

>>To avoid all the suspense, look at an OnSemi MJW18020. OnSemi even
>>has Spice2, PSpice, and Spice3 models as well as a Saber model for it.
>>While Digi-Key does not stock them, Mouser has them at less than $6 a
>>pop.
>
> <http://www.onsemi.com/pub_link/Collateral/MJW18020-D.PDF>
> Nope. Other then my objection to the package (hole too small), the
> beta is too low. The original has a minimum beta of 80, while this
> xsistor shows a minimum of 5.5 at 20A.

Unfortunately the Shindengen device does not list the conditions at which
hFE is measured. The application is an induction heater so hfe (ac) is
more important than hFE (DC). The higher fT of the OnSemi device
suggests that the hfe falls off less rapidly than in the Shindengen
device. With most induction heaters relying on self-excited power
oscillators, the actual hFE should not be that important. Do you
remember in the early days of transistors the exceptionally wide Beta
spreads of a given device? We, as engineers, learned to design circuits
that were not sensitive to Beta spread. Of course my experience is with
BIG vacuum tube dielectric heaters. [Need any NOS 3CX10000A3's?]

> Unfortunately, the device I excavated doesn't specify the beta.
> <http://ixdev.ixys.com/DataSheet/98573.pdf>
> Argh!

The IGBT is a voltage driven device and the gate only draws current due
to its capacitance, so Beta is a meaningless term with an IGBT. Instead
you use gfs measured in amps/volt (much like gm in a pentode tube).

>>I know we are dating ourselves here, Jeff, but bipolar transistors are
>>much like vacuum tubes in that triodes are triodes and with some
>>changes in circuit values (and rewiring, of course) just about any
>>triode
>>can be made to work in a pinch. Actually bipolar transistors generally
>>are even easier to substitute than vacuum tubes.
>
> I like to think of FET's as a solid state analogue to vacuum tubes. I
> was in college when the transition from tube to semiconductors was
> taught. Over the 6 years of various skools, I started with tubes,
> delved into bipolar, and graduated with FET's. Keeping them untangles
> was not a trivial exercise, but I'm comfortable working in all three
> areas.

In my case both vacuum tubes and bipolar transistors were taught as an
undergraduate. By graduate school, tubes were dropped and field effect
devices were added. The nice thing about tubes was the fact that they
were usually forgiving of short term mistakes! :-) And then there is
the built-in pilot light!

>>Do you have an NTE replacement book handy?
>
> Books? They tend to obsolete as soon as they're printed. I prefer
> online lookups.
> <http://www.nteinc.com>
>
>>Notice how many
>>transistors can be replaced by the NTE123AP.
>
> <http://www.nteinc.com/specs/100to199/pdf/nte123ap.pdf>
> The online lookup doesn't have a reverse NTE -> JEDEC lookup so I
> can't check how many the devices the NTE123AP replaces.

I quit counting after I found several hundred devices in the first few
pages. My point is that a small signal NPN will generally substitute for
most other small signal NPN's.

>>Look up the specs on
>>a 2N3904. The 2N3904 is far cheaper ($0.07) than the NTE part and can
>>probably be used anywhere the NTE123AP ($1.25) can be used.
>
> Sure. The NTE123AP is probably a relabeled 2N3904 or 2N2222, both
> very common parts. You're also paying for handling, bubble packaging,
> cataloging, distribution, and retail floor space for the NTE part. The
> 2N3904 part is sold by the thousands, while NTE parts tend to be sold
> one at a time. Of course the NTE parts are more expensive.

But if you have a 2N3904, or a 2N706, or even a PN2222, why bother to
order the NTE123AP? My point is that unless the circuit is unusual, it
will probably work fine with what you might have on hand.

>>One other thing when using the Digi-Key or Mouser search engines...
>>If you need a part with, say, a BVceo of 100 volts or more, you can
>>highlight 100, 150, 200, and 250 volts at the same time.
>
> Oops. I never noticed that you can select more than one. Thanks.
> --
> Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
> 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
> Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
> Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

Tomorrow I am off to visit WA5KSC, who I knew in high school, to
troubleshoot an old Heath Marauder (HX-10). After high school, we went
off to different colleges and lost touch. We reconnected after 45 years.
We were best friends then and we are best friends again now. That is one
of the nice things about ham radio. And working on old vacuum tube gear
is still fun!

73, Barry WA4VZQ

==============================================================================
TOPIC: minidisc player shows track but won't play tracks
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/305742f0844c5c34?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Tues, Apr 19 2011 6:01 pm
From: "Arfa Daily"

"Meat Plow" <mhywattt@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:pan.2011.04.19.16.48.43@lmao.lol...
> On Tue, 19 Apr 2011 02:07:09 +0100, Arfa Daily wrote:
>
>> "willywainwright" <ww10@mac.com> wrote in message
>> news:1360b0ff-dfc8-4fd6-
> b13b-18a3c0ca4f95@a21g2000prj.googlegroups.com...
>>> On Apr 17, 5:38 pm, "Arfa Daily" <arfa.da...@ntlworld.com> wrote:
>>>> "willywainwright" <w...@mac.com> wrote in message
>>>>
>>>> news:25afe1d0-f5ec-423f-ae7c-
> a22b29f43c59@q40g2000prh.googlegroups.com...
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> > On Apr 16, 12:23 pm, a7yvm109gf...@netzero.com wrote:
>>>> >> On Apr 16, 12:10 pm, willywainwright <w...@mac.com> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> >> > hello, I have a number of sony minidisc players that suddenly
>>>> >> > won't play the track for no apparent reason. I've tried batteries
>>>> >> > and plug in power with no difference. Powers up fine, shows
>>>> >> > spinning icon in window, track number shows but I can't get the
>>>> >> > units to play the disc.
>>>> >> > I've tried it in all positions, even upside down and sideways but
>>>> >> > still no playing of disc
>>>> >> > any ideas?
>>>> >> > willy
>>>>
>>>> >> 1) Try lens cleaner disc.
>>>> >> 2) Now toss the whole shebang in the garbage 3) Get a free cell
>>>> >> phone, even they'll come with a MP3 player.
>>>>
>>>> >> Minidisc is over. It's dead, finished, kaput. And I'm speaking as
>>>> >> someone who bought a MZ-1 when they first came out.
>>>>
>>>> > maybe a lens cleaner disc would work. wonder if I can find one. I'll
>>>> > give it a try. Garbage is full of my cassette tapes and players and
>>>> > all my 8-track tapes. Willy
>>>>
>>>> Never ever use 'cleaner' discs - not that I recall ever seeing one for
>>>> a mindisc anyway. They invariably never do anything to help, and in
>>>> the case
>>>> of DVDs, I've seen them cause expensive damage where the little
>>>> 'brush' hairs embedded in the disc, have caught in the lens
>>>> suspension, and mangled
>>>> it as the disc has then rotated. I used to do a lot of work on Sony MD
>>>> players, when a guy that I did work for was a regional service centre.
>>>> For
>>>> the most part, failure to play discs is down to a worn out laser.
>>>> Sometimes,
>>>> you can get around that for a while, by resetting the laser parameters
>>>> via
>>>> built in diagnostic software, but it is a complex and tricky procedure
>>>> to do. Another thing to check is that when the disc is loaded, it is
>>>> free to rotate. I had many examples where the turntable had been
>>>> pushed down on the
>>>> motor shaft, until it jammed the motor. Another very common problem
>>>> was 'crap in the works'. The sled drive comprises gears with *very*
>>>> fine teeth.
>>>> The slightest bit of contamination in them, is enough to stop the
>>>> gears from
>>>> turning. The contamination in question, often seemed to be very fine
>>>> sand,
>>>> but I guess that it could have been 'pocket grit'. Just one grain in
>>>> one of
>>>> the gear teeth, will jam the mech and stop the laser from homing,
>>>> which will
>>>> result in the disc failing to spin up, and the TOC not being read.
>>>> Finally,
>>>> I suppose you do actually see the display come up and hear the disc
>>>> loading
>>>> as though it's about to do everything normally ? I have had cases
>>>> where the
>>>> door-closed sense switch has caused problems. A word of warning
>>>> though. You
>>>> need to have the patience of a saint to work on these things, and some
>>>> very
>>>> fine tools, including a quality set of Philips jeweler's screwdrivers,
>>>> and
>>>> pointed tweezers. Magnetize the screwdriver first. The tiny little
>>>> screws are no bigger than an ant, and easily lost. Work on a large
>>>> sheet of paper,
>>>> and use a strong light, and a magnifying glass. And you need to be
>>>> able to
>>>> hold your breath pretty well, also ... d :-|
>>>>
>>>> Arfa
>>>
>>> Thank you Arfa, great reply, full of good info. Don't know that I will
>>> attempt the fix but at least I want to be sure it's not something I've
>>> overlooked,like the hold switch set to on. In this case I guess these
>>> things just wear out after awhile. Would you, or anyone, know of a good
>>> repair shop to send these units to? And also, would you be able to tell
>>> me about how much you guys used to charge for repairs. Hourly? just
>>> curious.
>>> Willy
>>
>> My going rate for this sort of stuff is around 22 UKP ( $35 ) an hour.
>> It's not really a true reflection of the complexity / fiddly nature of
>> the work, but it's about the most that these jobs will stand. Any more
>> than an hour plus parts, effectively writes them off.
>>
>> Arfa
>
> Most of the time unless the customer is willing to pay it's just not
> worth it to repair these things. I've had a couple apart and they are
> complex and difficult to work on because of the size. Those that I have
> repaired I had to use my 20x stereo magnifier visor and hold my face
> about 4 inches from the piece while working on it.
>
>

Yep. Pretty much par for the course. I would guess it's probably been a
couple of years now since I last worked on one. MP3 players killed them,
really. In actual fact, I think that I would have to think hard before
really getting into one these days. It was ok when I was doing them on a
virtually daily basis. You get so used to them that you can pull them down
with your eyes shut. My eyes are nothing like as good now as they were a
couple of years back, so that wouldn't help either. I also have a stereo
headband magnifier, and I find that I am using it more and more for
'standard' sized electronics, let alone surface mount stuff. Oh to be young
again, eh Meat ?

Arfa
>
> --
> Live Fast Die Young, Leave A Pretty Corpse

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Mopar model 812 car radio, (early 1950's Chrysler product)
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/3135639c17d6af1d?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 4 ==
Date: Tues, Apr 19 2011 7:25 pm
From: klem kedidelhopper

It seems like everything coming in here lately is other than TV
repairs. But TV's are getting so cheap now and as a consequence things
are so slow I hate to turn anything away these days.This is a six volt
positive ground radio out of an early 1950's Chrysler product. Tubes
light up but vibrator will not buzz. I pulled the vibrator and
connected the coil terminals up to six volts and it does buzz. Not
conclusive but at the very least it tells me that six volts is not
reaching the coil. Does anyone have a schematic for this radio, or do
you know where I might find one? The owner just bought the car, is
restoring it and really wants to keep it original, so he'd really like
to have this radio working. Thanks, Lenny

== 2 of 4 ==
Date: Tues, Apr 19 2011 10:21 pm
From: spamtrap1888

On Apr 19, 7:25 pm, klem kedidelhopper <captainvideo462...@gmail.com>
wrote:
> It seems like everything coming in here lately is other than TV
> repairs. But TV's are getting so cheap now and as a consequence things
> are so slow I hate to turn anything away these days.This is a six volt
> positive ground radio out of an early 1950's Chrysler product. Tubes
> light up but vibrator will not buzz. I pulled the vibrator and
> connected the coil terminals up to six volts and it does buzz. Not
> conclusive but at the very least it tells me that six volts is not
> reaching the coil. Does anyone have a schematic for this radio, or do
> you know where I might find one? The owner just bought the car, is
> restoring it and really wants to keep it original, so he'd really like
> to have this radio working. Thanks, Lenny

Do you have six dollars and fifty cents? A NOS Sams Photofact can be
yours:

http://www.smcelectronics.com/samsauto.htm

MOPAR Models: 812/813/815/816/817 AM Car Radio. - $6.50

== 3 of 4 ==
Date: Tues, Apr 19 2011 11:01 pm
From: Bob AZ

This is a six volt
> positive ground radio out of an early 1950's Chrysler product. Tubes
> light up but vibrator will not buzz. I pulled the vibrator and
> connected the coil terminals up to six volts and it does buzz.

FWIW:

There were solid state vibrators available. Not sure where to look and/
or find one today.

Bob AZ

== 4 of 4 ==
Date: Wed, Apr 20 2011 12:10 am
From: "N_Cook"

klem kedidelhopper <captainvideo462009@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:a5b8ddea-d0b2-40c4-b137-f151d4146709@r6g2000vbz.googlegroups.com...
> It seems like everything coming in here lately is other than TV
> repairs. But TV's are getting so cheap now and as a consequence things
> are so slow I hate to turn anything away these days.This is a six volt
> positive ground radio out of an early 1950's Chrysler product. Tubes
> light up but vibrator will not buzz. I pulled the vibrator and
> connected the coil terminals up to six volts and it does buzz. Not
> conclusive but at the very least it tells me that six volts is not
> reaching the coil. Does anyone have a schematic for this radio, or do
> you know where I might find one? The owner just bought the car, is
> restoring it and really wants to keep it original, so he'd really like
> to have this radio working. Thanks, Lenny

I have renovated a vibrator, usual pitted contacts problem, robbing contacts
from
a power relay or switch and swaging them into the carrier.

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