sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Today's topics:

* Trying to get into the BIOS - 14 messages, 8 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/fd87ae1ce28c1c89?hl=en
* Porcelain thermally conductive insulators ? - 4 messages, 3 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/b69decd6bfa03d8b?hl=en
* Ampeg BA600 - 115 bass amp combo, 6 months old, ROHS - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/bc6178fc14fcf982?hl=en
* free shipping paypal payment wholesale CLOTHING jacket T-shirt long sleeve
suit and hoody(Franklin Marshall,Monclereiderdown,nike,adidas,a&f,d&g,ed
harday,bape,bbc,lv,gucci,armani,polo, poul smith and so on)/http://www.24hours-
online.com/ - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/0507b0f023edb607?hl=en
* Behringer MDX2200 - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/689edcf5c79b72ba?hl=en
* minidisc player shows track but won't play tracks - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/305742f0844c5c34?hl=en
* Looking for a Western Digital My Passport 500GB - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/a863664f4294a1ac?hl=en
* Plugs but no jacks - 2 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/387c4b30df150ab0?hl=en

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Trying to get into the BIOS
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/fd87ae1ce28c1c89?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 14 ==
Date: Tues, Apr 19 2011 12:45 am
From: who where

On Mon, 18 Apr 2011 12:54:58 -0700 (PDT), mike
<mlightner@survivormail.com> wrote:

>On Apr 18, 2:10 pm, Mike Tomlinson <m...@jasper.org.uk> wrote:
>> In article <e0900b0a-d06f-4d77-87bd-aada32faf...@gu8g2000vbb.googlegroup
>> s.com>, mike <mlight...@survivormail.com> writes
>>
>> > I ran into in a few different places, where from a Dos prompt you go
>> >into DEBUG and supposedly change the values in some register that will
>> >make the bios lose the password requirement - so far it hasn't worked,
>> >don't know if I'm following the instructions correctly or not.
>>
>> boot DOS
>> run debug.  '-' is the debug prompt, you don't type this.
>>
>> - o 70 10
>> - o 71 0
>> - q
>>
>> that's "oh, seventy, ten / oh, seventy-one, zero"
>>
>> reboot.
>>
>> with a bit of luck, password will be gone.
>>
>> --
>> (\__/)  
>> (='.'=)
>> (")_(")
>
>All right, thanks! I'll give that a try probably this evening.

Failing that, locate a copy of KILLCMOS, a small utility that writes
to cmos RAM and *causes* a checksum error there. The result is that
on a subsequent bootup you will be directed to setup (without
requiring a pswd) where you can clear the pswd requirement.

== 2 of 14 ==
Date: Tues, Apr 19 2011 5:54 am
From: mike

who where wrote:
> On Mon, 18 Apr 2011 12:54:58 -0700 (PDT), mike
> <mlightner@survivormail.com> wrote:
>
> >On Apr 18, 2:10�pm, Mike Tomlinson <m...@jasper.org.uk> wrote:> >> reboot.
> >>
> >> with a bit of luck, password will be gone.

Guess my luck is lacking, I tried entering a few different values in
DEBUG as found here and there, to no effect so far...

> >>
> >> --
> >> (\__/) �
> >> (='.'=)
> >> (")_(")
> >

>
> Failing that, locate a copy of KILLCMOS, a small utility that writes
> to cmos RAM and *causes* a checksum error there. The result is that
> on a subsequent bootup you will be directed to setup (without
> requiring a pswd) where you can clear the pswd requirement.\

All right, I got a copy of it, will try that later today.
Thanks

== 3 of 14 ==
Date: Tues, Apr 19 2011 8:34 am
From: "Geoffrey S. Mendelson"

mike wrote:
> All right, I got a copy of it, will try that later today.
> Thanks

Walking in late, and not having a clue as to what computer you are talking
about, desktop PC's since 1990 have batteries to keep the CMOS RAM intact.
There was a brief flirtation with clock chips with batteries built in, some
which also had the CMOS RAM on them, but they are long obsolete.

Modern ones use lithium coin cells in little holders. PC/AT computers and
most 386/486 ones used external batteries which pluged into the motherboard
and the later 386/486 had NICAD batteries (all of which must of leaked and
died 10 years ago).

If it has a lithim coin cell, the easiest thing to do is to remove it and
wait an hour. You can also find a "clear CMOS" jumper on the motherboard,
you set it, turn on the power, wait until BIOS text appears on the screen, turn
off power and remove the jumper.

If it's a laptop, you can often find a clear CMOS jumper hidden inside or
take out the battery and let it sit overnight. Modern laptops use capacitors
to hold the CMOS settings for a few hours with no battery.

Some of the BIOSes have "backdoor" passwords in them, you should google the
exact model of your laptop/desktop motherboard for more information.

You can also google BIOS password, or BIOS backdoor.

Geoff.

--
Geoffrey S. Mendelson N3OWJ/4X1GM
Those who cannot remember the past are condemned to misquote it.

== 4 of 14 ==
Date: Tues, Apr 19 2011 9:57 am
From: spamtrap1888

On Apr 18, 8:06 am, mike <mlight...@survivormail.com> wrote:
> Greetings  to all,
>
...
> I found it at the scrapyard a while back, and recently scored a
> processor for it,
> only to find that it's set up to boot from hard drive only.  I can't
> get in to change the
> boot order since the BIOS is set to have a password.
>
> It won't boot from a floppy, nor a cd, but will boot from a hard drive
> that has DOS on
> it, and also one that has Ubuntu on it, as well as the one that came
> with it, which is
> a 40 Gb drive that has, I think, Mandrake on it.
>
...
>
> I think it may be pretty well secured by IT pros, as it came in a
> rack-mount enclosure with BarracudaNetworks logo and markings, and was
> formerly used
> as a spam firewall or some-such thing.

This made me curious: In my experience with BIOS the system will run
through a list of boot devices to try to boot. Is it common to set a
system up to rely on one device only?

== 5 of 14 ==
Date: Tues, Apr 19 2011 10:02 am
From: "William Sommerwerck"

> This made me curious: In my experience with BIOS the
> system will run through a list of boot devices to try to boot.
> Is it common to set a system up to rely on one device only?

Not that I know of. The BIOS usually lets you select the order. I set mine
to CD, floppy, HD.

== 6 of 14 ==
Date: Tues, Apr 19 2011 10:24 am
From: "Geoffrey S. Mendelson"

spamtrap1888 wrote:
> This made me curious: In my experience with BIOS the system will run
> through a list of boot devices to try to boot. Is it common to set a
> system up to rely on one device only?

The "Press F8 for a boot menu" option did not appear until around 2002, and
as late as 2005 some BIOSes did not have it.

Before then, you could set the boot order and whether to try other devices
in the BIOS.

It was probably an office computer and was set to prevent people from booting
CD/DVD's and floppies.

Geoff.

--
Geoffrey S. Mendelson N3OWJ/4X1GM
Those who cannot remember the past are condemned to misquote it.

== 7 of 14 ==
Date: Tues, Apr 19 2011 10:28 am
From: mike

On Apr 19, 11:34 am, "Geoffrey S. Mendelson" <g...@mendelson.com>
wrote:
> mike wrote:
> > All right, I got a copy of it, will try that later today.
> > Thanks
>
> Walking in late, and not having a clue as to what computer you are talking
> about,

If you read the first post in the thread that info will be revealed to
you.

desktop PC's since 1990 have batteries to keep the CMOS RAM intact.
> There was a brief flirtation with clock chips with batteries built in, some
> which also had the CMOS RAM on them, but they are long obsolete.
>
> Modern ones use lithium coin cells in little holders. PC/AT computers and
> most 386/486 ones used external batteries which pluged into the motherboard
> and the later 386/486 had NICAD batteries (all of which must of leaked and
> died 10 years ago).
>
> If it has a lithim coin cell, the easiest thing to do is to remove it and
> wait an hour. You can also find a "clear CMOS" jumper on the motherboard,
> you set it, turn on the power, wait until BIOS text appears on the screen, turn
> off power and remove the jumper.
>
> If it's a laptop, you can often find a clear CMOS jumper hidden inside or
> take out the battery and let it sit overnight. Modern laptops use capacitors
> to hold the CMOS settings for a few hours with no battery.
>
> Some of the BIOSes have "backdoor" passwords in them, you should google the
> exact model of your laptop/desktop motherboard for more information.
>
> You can also google BIOS password, or BIOS backdoor.

I usually DAGS first these days, don't want to look like an idiot,
don't ya know :)

> Geoff.
>
> --
> Geoffrey S. Mendelson N3OWJ/4X1GM
> Those who cannot remember the past are condemned to misquote it.

== 8 of 14 ==
Date: Tues, Apr 19 2011 10:59 am
From: "Geoffrey S. Mendelson"

mike wrote:
> If you read the first post in the thread that info will be revealed to
> you.

It's long since rolled off my system.

Geoff.

--
Geoffrey S. Mendelson N3OWJ/4X1GM
Those who cannot remember the past are condemned to misquote it.

== 9 of 14 ==
Date: Tues, Apr 19 2011 11:28 am
From: David Nebenzahl

On 4/19/2011 10:59 AM Geoffrey S. Mendelson spake thus:

> mike wrote:
>
>> If you read the first post in the thread that info will be revealed
>> to you.
>
> It's long since rolled off my system.

Is *everything* in Israel as piss-poor as you say it is? Retention time
of 2 days? Sheesh ...

--
The current state of literacy in our advanced civilization:

yo
wassup
nuttin
wan2 hang
k
where
here
k
l8tr
by

- from Usenet (what's *that*?)

== 10 of 14 ==
Date: Tues, Apr 19 2011 11:44 am
From: "Geoffrey S. Mendelson"

David Nebenzahl wrote:

> Is *everything* in Israel as piss-poor as you say it is? Retention time
> of 2 days? Sheesh ...

Cut me a break. It's a private news feed sent to a private system. I set
it up over 10 years ago when I had a dial up and 2g hard drive and it has
worked fine for me ever since.

I'm sure there are plenty of news servers out there (or out here) with much
longer retention and many more groups, but I've never had a need to change.

I probably should up the retention, but since I'm the only one who uses it,
and USENET is full of crap, I don't see much of a reason. By two days, almost
every posting on every group has befallen Godwin's Law or Mendelson's corollary
(change calling someone a NAZI in Godwin's to reference to the Wikipedia).

Geoff.

--
Geoffrey S. Mendelson N3OWJ/4X1GM
Those who cannot remember the past are condemned to misquote it.

== 11 of 14 ==
Date: Tues, Apr 19 2011 11:51 am
From: PlainBill@yawhoo.com

On Tue, 19 Apr 2011 09:57:49 -0700 (PDT), spamtrap1888
<spamtrap1888@gmail.com> wrote:

>On Apr 18, 8:06�am, mike <mlight...@survivormail.com> wrote:
>> Greetings �to all,
>>
>...
>> I found it at the scrapyard a while back, and recently scored a
>> processor for it,
>> only to find that it's set up to boot from hard drive only. �I can't
>> get in to change the
>> boot order since the BIOS is set to have a password.
>>
>> It won't boot from a floppy, nor a cd, but will boot from a hard drive
>> that has DOS on
>> it, and also one that has Ubuntu on it, as well as the one that came
>> with it, which is
>> a 40 Gb drive that has, I think, Mandrake on it.
>>
>...
>>
>> I think it may be pretty well secured by IT pros, as it came in a
>> rack-mount enclosure with BarracudaNetworks logo and markings, and was
>> formerly used
>> as a spam firewall or some-such thing.
>
>This made me curious: In my experience with BIOS the system will run
>through a list of boot devices to try to boot. Is it common to set a
>system up to rely on one device only?
Current BIOS will generate a list of boot devices; it is possible to
remove devices from the list. Given the application - Firewall -
restricting the eligible boot devices to the hard drive is an
elementary precaution.

PlainBill

== 12 of 14 ==
Date: Tues, Apr 19 2011 12:46 pm
From: mike

Geoffrey S. Mendelson wrote:
> mike wrote:
> > If you read the first post in the thread that info will be revealed to
> > you.
>
> It's long since rolled off my system.

Oh, now I see - quoting from 1st post:

"Does anybody out there have some clues for getting into a password-
protected BIOS
On a 5 or 6 year old Jetway motherboard? Background follows:

I found it at the scrapyard a while back, and recently scored a
processor for it,
only to find that it's set up to boot from hard drive only. I can't
get in to change the
boot order since the BIOS is set to have a password.

It won't boot from a floppy, nor a cd, but will boot from a hard drive
that has DOS on
it, and also one that has Ubuntu on it, as well as the one that came
with it, which is
a 40 Gb drive that has, I think, Mandrake on it.

All I get when I boot with the 40 Gb one is a login prompt, but, not
having any login
info or passwords I can't really get any where by booting with it;
but, I can kind of
poke around in it's file-system if I boot with the drive that has
Ubuntu set as the
primary master.

I think it may be pretty well secured by IT pros, as it came in a
rack-mount enclosure with BarracudaNetworks logo and markings, and was
formerly used
as a spam firewall or some-such thing. "

"In searching the web I've managed to secure the motherboard manual
and
the latest
drivers and a BIOS update for it, but when I try to flash the bios
(it's Award bios
and I'm using the flash program from the Jetway site) it looks like
it's working until
the end, when it gives a message "flash rom is write-protected, make
sure all jumpers
is set to proper" or some such slightly mangled English, and I've
followed the
manual's instructions on clearing the cmos and I find no other jumpers
that deal with
write-protection. I also tried removing the battery for several days
and jumpering
where the battery contacts are, but I guess there must be some non-
volatile memory
somewhere that is defeating my efforts.

I've emailed Jetway a couple weeks ago, so far no response. I haven't
tried BarracudaNetworks, other than to poke around on their site, but
technical info there seems mostly about selling systems and not how
the systems work (except for IT speak, which I'm not very conversant
in).

It has the bios contained in a PLCC-32 package which fits into a
socket. I found some
pin-out info on the Winbond site:

http://www.winbond.com/hq/enu/ProductAndSales/ProductLines/FlashMemor...

APPnote 21 has a table, but not much in the way of instructions.

Sorry to be so long-winded, I've tried a couple other things but the
one I'd most like to learn more about
I ran into in a few different places, where from a Dos prompt you go
into DEBUG and supposedly change the values in some register that will
make the bios lose the password requirement - so far it hasn't worked,
don't know if I'm following the instructions correctly or not.

TIA for any info,

Mike "

So, at this point I've still yet to try KILLCMOS , still trying to
figure out what's with the values assigned to different flavors of
BIOS as listed in the program Cmospwd.exe

Anyway, thanks for your thoughts,
Mike

>
> Geoff.
>
> --
> Geoffrey S. Mendelson N3OWJ/4X1GM
> Those who cannot remember the past are condemned to misquote it.

== 13 of 14 ==
Date: Tues, Apr 19 2011 1:19 pm
From: "Geoffrey S. Mendelson"

mike wrote:
> Mike "
>
> So, at this point I've still yet to try KILLCMOS , still trying to
> figure out what's with the values assigned to different flavors of
> BIOS as listed in the program Cmospwd.exe

try "bcndk1" (I found that by googling "baracuda bios password")

Geoff.

--
Geoffrey S. Mendelson N3OWJ/4X1GM
Those who cannot remember the past are condemned to misquote it.

== 14 of 14 ==
Date: Tues, Apr 19 2011 3:00 pm
From: Mike Tomlinson

In article <ae9451d8-53fc-4e47-88be-d8d6bdc4adbc@m23g2000prl.googlegroup
s.com>, mike <mlightner@survivormail.com> writes

>Guess my luck is lacking, I tried entering a few different values in
>DEBUG as found here and there, to no effect so far...

Try the ctbios utility from here:

http://www.biosflash.com/e/bios-passwords.htm

the output is in German, but not hard to follow. That may show you what
the password is.

I had the same problem with an HP Vectra VL420 motherboard last week.
This uses a modified Asus P4B-MX board. An unknown password was set on
the BIOS setup so I could not configure the machine.

The debug trick worked to deliberately cause a CMOS checksum error, but
it didn't get rid of the password. Googling found me a link with a tip
to set a certain jumper to clear the passwords and that worked.

I tried the ctbios utility above but that didn't show me anything that
looked like a password.

If you google for "BIOS backdoor password" or "BIOS master password"
you'll get a lot of hits with lists of different passwords to try.

There will be a way to do it, just persevere.

--
(\__/)
(='.'=)
(")_(")

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Porcelain thermally conductive insulators ?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/b69decd6bfa03d8b?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 4 ==
Date: Tues, Apr 19 2011 12:25 am
From: "N_Cook"

Baron <baron@linuxmaniac.net> wrote in message
news:iohp6k$bbn$1@dont-email.me...
> N_Cook Inscribed thus:
>
> > 1.8mm slabs of porcelain under TO220 devices.
>
> I would check that ! Its more likely that they are Beryllium_oxide !
> <http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Beryllium_oxide>
>
> > Tried grinding a clearance notch on the side of one
> > pad but got nowhere as ceramic.
> > Not only that but I had no trouble holding the slab in fingers while
> > trying to grind a slot, it was barely getting warm - good thermal
> > insulator or small grinding wheel not generating heat as not cutting
> > into the material ?
>
> The dust from grinding or abrading Beryllium_oxide is highly toxic !
>
> --
> Best Regards:
> Baron.

Unfortunately it would not grind. I assume it was not heating up because the
grinding disc was just running over the surface without even rubbing , let
alone grinding, so no dust, still the flat edge . Does BeO have that sort of
translucent appearance of porcelain? I've managed to grind small sections of
the ceramic used is high temperature "chock block" connectors, that has a
normal solid white appearance. But given its use here then presumably BeO.
It was the slightly milky/translucent porcelain-like appearance that
convinced me.

== 2 of 4 ==
Date: Tues, Apr 19 2011 6:30 am
From: Grant

On Tue, 19 Apr 2011 08:25:39 +0100, "N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote:

>Baron <baron@linuxmaniac.net> wrote in message
>news:iohp6k$bbn$1@dont-email.me...
>> N_Cook Inscribed thus:
>>
>> > 1.8mm slabs of porcelain under TO220 devices.
>>
>> I would check that ! Its more likely that they are Beryllium_oxide !
>> <http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Beryllium_oxide>
>>
>> > Tried grinding a clearance notch on the side of one
>> > pad but got nowhere as ceramic.
>> > Not only that but I had no trouble holding the slab in fingers while
>> > trying to grind a slot, it was barely getting warm - good thermal
>> > insulator or small grinding wheel not generating heat as not cutting
>> > into the material ?
>>
>> The dust from grinding or abrading Beryllium_oxide is highly toxic !
>>
>> --
>> Best Regards:
>> Baron.
>
>
>Unfortunately it would not grind. I assume it was not heating up because the
>grinding disc was just running over the surface without even rubbing , let
>alone grinding, so no dust, still the flat edge . Does BeO have that sort of
>translucent appearance of porcelain? I've managed to grind small sections of
>the ceramic used is high temperature "chock block" connectors, that has a
>normal solid white appearance. But given its use here then presumably BeO.
>It was the slightly milky/translucent porcelain-like appearance that
>convinced me.
>
Only BeO I've seen was pink, and I'd not try to grind it, toxic!

Safe if not shattered.

Grant.

== 3 of 4 ==
Date: Tues, Apr 19 2011 7:11 am
From: "N_Cook"

Grant <omg@grrr.id.au> wrote in message
news:ah3rq614gcdlc0jv002bmkfqtg5458poh2@4ax.com...
> On Tue, 19 Apr 2011 08:25:39 +0100, "N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote:
>
> >Baron <baron@linuxmaniac.net> wrote in message
> >news:iohp6k$bbn$1@dont-email.me...
> >> N_Cook Inscribed thus:
> >>
> >> > 1.8mm slabs of porcelain under TO220 devices.
> >>
> >> I would check that ! Its more likely that they are Beryllium_oxide !
> >> <http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Beryllium_oxide>
> >>
> >> > Tried grinding a clearance notch on the side of one
> >> > pad but got nowhere as ceramic.
> >> > Not only that but I had no trouble holding the slab in fingers while
> >> > trying to grind a slot, it was barely getting warm - good thermal
> >> > insulator or small grinding wheel not generating heat as not cutting
> >> > into the material ?
> >>
> >> The dust from grinding or abrading Beryllium_oxide is highly toxic !
> >>
> >> --
> >> Best Regards:
> >> Baron.
> >
> >
> >Unfortunately it would not grind. I assume it was not heating up because
the
> >grinding disc was just running over the surface without even rubbing ,
let
> >alone grinding, so no dust, still the flat edge . Does BeO have that sort
of
> >translucent appearance of porcelain? I've managed to grind small sections
of
> >the ceramic used is high temperature "chock block" connectors, that has
a
> >normal solid white appearance. But given its use here then presumably
BeO.
> >It was the slightly milky/translucent porcelain-like appearance that
> >convinced me.
> >
> Only BeO I've seen was pink, and I'd not try to grind it, toxic!
>
> Safe if not shattered.
>
> Grant.

I've seen pink TO3, presumably BeO, insulators before but they did not have
this transclucent like appearance.

== 4 of 4 ==
Date: Tues, Apr 19 2011 1:31 pm
From: Baron

N_Cook Inscribed thus:

> Baron <baron@linuxmaniac.net> wrote in message
> news:iohp6k$bbn$1@dont-email.me...
>> N_Cook Inscribed thus:
>>
>> > 1.8mm slabs of porcelain under TO220 devices.
>>
>> I would check that ! Its more likely that they are Beryllium_oxide !
>> <http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Beryllium_oxide>
>>
>> > Tried grinding a clearance notch on the side of one
>> > pad but got nowhere as ceramic.
>> > Not only that but I had no trouble holding the slab in fingers
>> > while trying to grind a slot, it was barely getting warm - good
>> > thermal insulator or small grinding wheel not generating heat as
>> > not cutting into the material ?
>>
>> The dust from grinding or abrading Beryllium_oxide is highly toxic !
>>
>> --
>> Best Regards:
>> Baron.
>
>
> Unfortunately it would not grind. I assume it was not heating up
> because the grinding disc was just running over the surface without
> even rubbing , let alone grinding, so no dust, still the flat edge.
> Does BeO have that sort of translucent appearance of porcelain?

The surface tends to have the appearance of good quality photocopy
paper, very smooth with a barely visible grain. A bit like ferrite
beads.

> I've managed to grind small sections of the ceramic used is high
> temperature "chock block" connectors, that has a normal solid white
> appearance. But given its use here then presumably BeO.
> It was the slightly milky/translucent porcelain-like appearance that
> convinced me.

Both Aluminum oxide and Beryllium oxide are extremely hard materials. I
belive that the pink dye was used later to specifically identify
Beryllium. So its a good chance that the white insulators that you
have are Aluminum oxide. Even so its not a good idea to try to grind
them.

Ceramics are also used to machine metals, including some that are so
tough that only ceramic cutters can be used on them.

--
Best Regards:
Baron.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Ampeg BA600 - 115 bass amp combo, 6 months old, ROHS
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/bc6178fc14fcf982?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Tues, Apr 19 2011 3:56 am
From: "N_Cook"

It almost seems perverse, 0.4 amps of mains current draw (at 240V) and 25
watts of 400Hz sine into 4R dummy load and a thermometer laid over the tabs
of the 4x TO220 output device, rises only 8 deg C over ambient.
And that with amp laying on bench so no convection over the external
heatsink vanes, no wonder no fan needed.

Previous D class I've played with were Stagepas , not possible to monitor
their operation without making up umbilicals to operate PA out of the little
box. And as separate clock maybe "RF" problems doing that

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http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/0507b0f023edb607?hl=en
==============================================================================

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==============================================================================
TOPIC: Behringer MDX2200
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/689edcf5c79b72ba?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Tues, Apr 19 2011 9:30 am
From: Ron

On 18/04/2011 23:18, Gareth Magennis wrote:
>
>
> "Ron" <ron@lunevalleyaudio.com> wrote in message
> news:46Kdndamm9_prTXQnZ2dnUVZ7rGdnZ2d@bt.com...
>> On 15/04/2011 12:29, Ron wrote:
>>> Has anyone got a circuit diagram for a Behringer MDX2200 composer Pro
>>> please?
>>>
>>> C/dags for Alto ACL2Pro would probably be the same.
>>>
>>> Ron
>>
>> Belay that, Alto circuits found
>>
>> Ron
>
>
>
> Hi Ron, does that mean some Behringer products are rebadaged and
> schematics available?
>
>
>
> Gareth.

Oh yes, the MDX2200 is identical to the Alto ACL2Pro in all but trade
dress. Interstingly, The Alto product is almost three times the price of
the Belringer.

Ron

==============================================================================
TOPIC: minidisc player shows track but won't play tracks
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/305742f0844c5c34?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Tues, Apr 19 2011 9:49 am
From: Meat Plow

On Tue, 19 Apr 2011 02:07:09 +0100, Arfa Daily wrote:

> "willywainwright" <ww10@mac.com> wrote in message
> news:1360b0ff-dfc8-4fd6-
b13b-18a3c0ca4f95@a21g2000prj.googlegroups.com...
>> On Apr 17, 5:38 pm, "Arfa Daily" <arfa.da...@ntlworld.com> wrote:
>>> "willywainwright" <w...@mac.com> wrote in message
>>>
>>> news:25afe1d0-f5ec-423f-ae7c-
a22b29f43c59@q40g2000prh.googlegroups.com...
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> > On Apr 16, 12:23 pm, a7yvm109gf...@netzero.com wrote:
>>> >> On Apr 16, 12:10 pm, willywainwright <w...@mac.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> >> > hello, I have a number of sony minidisc players that suddenly
>>> >> > won't play the track for no apparent reason. I've tried batteries
>>> >> > and plug in power with no difference. Powers up fine, shows
>>> >> > spinning icon in window, track number shows but I can't get the
>>> >> > units to play the disc.
>>> >> > I've tried it in all positions, even upside down and sideways but
>>> >> > still no playing of disc
>>> >> > any ideas?
>>> >> > willy
>>>
>>> >> 1) Try lens cleaner disc.
>>> >> 2) Now toss the whole shebang in the garbage 3) Get a free cell
>>> >> phone, even they'll come with a MP3 player.
>>>
>>> >> Minidisc is over. It's dead, finished, kaput. And I'm speaking as
>>> >> someone who bought a MZ-1 when they first came out.
>>>
>>> > maybe a lens cleaner disc would work. wonder if I can find one. I'll
>>> > give it a try. Garbage is full of my cassette tapes and players and
>>> > all my 8-track tapes. Willy
>>>
>>> Never ever use 'cleaner' discs - not that I recall ever seeing one for
>>> a mindisc anyway. They invariably never do anything to help, and in
>>> the case
>>> of DVDs, I've seen them cause expensive damage where the little
>>> 'brush' hairs embedded in the disc, have caught in the lens
>>> suspension, and mangled
>>> it as the disc has then rotated. I used to do a lot of work on Sony MD
>>> players, when a guy that I did work for was a regional service centre.
>>> For
>>> the most part, failure to play discs is down to a worn out laser.
>>> Sometimes,
>>> you can get around that for a while, by resetting the laser parameters
>>> via
>>> built in diagnostic software, but it is a complex and tricky procedure
>>> to do. Another thing to check is that when the disc is loaded, it is
>>> free to rotate. I had many examples where the turntable had been
>>> pushed down on the
>>> motor shaft, until it jammed the motor. Another very common problem
>>> was 'crap in the works'. The sled drive comprises gears with *very*
>>> fine teeth.
>>> The slightest bit of contamination in them, is enough to stop the
>>> gears from
>>> turning. The contamination in question, often seemed to be very fine
>>> sand,
>>> but I guess that it could have been 'pocket grit'. Just one grain in
>>> one of
>>> the gear teeth, will jam the mech and stop the laser from homing,
>>> which will
>>> result in the disc failing to spin up, and the TOC not being read.
>>> Finally,
>>> I suppose you do actually see the display come up and hear the disc
>>> loading
>>> as though it's about to do everything normally ? I have had cases
>>> where the
>>> door-closed sense switch has caused problems. A word of warning
>>> though. You
>>> need to have the patience of a saint to work on these things, and some
>>> very
>>> fine tools, including a quality set of Philips jeweler's screwdrivers,
>>> and
>>> pointed tweezers. Magnetize the screwdriver first. The tiny little
>>> screws are no bigger than an ant, and easily lost. Work on a large
>>> sheet of paper,
>>> and use a strong light, and a magnifying glass. And you need to be
>>> able to
>>> hold your breath pretty well, also ... d :-|
>>>
>>> Arfa
>>
>> Thank you Arfa, great reply, full of good info. Don't know that I will
>> attempt the fix but at least I want to be sure it's not something I've
>> overlooked,like the hold switch set to on. In this case I guess these
>> things just wear out after awhile. Would you, or anyone, know of a good
>> repair shop to send these units to? And also, would you be able to tell
>> me about how much you guys used to charge for repairs. Hourly? just
>> curious.
>> Willy
>
> My going rate for this sort of stuff is around 22 UKP ( $35 ) an hour.
> It's not really a true reflection of the complexity / fiddly nature of
> the work, but it's about the most that these jobs will stand. Any more
> than an hour plus parts, effectively writes them off.
>
> Arfa

Most of the time unless the customer is willing to pay it's just not
worth it to repair these things. I've had a couple apart and they are
complex and difficult to work on because of the size. Those that I have
repaired I had to use my 20x stereo magnifier visor and hold my face
about 4 inches from the piece while working on it.

--
Live Fast Die Young, Leave A Pretty Corpse

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Looking for a Western Digital My Passport 500GB
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/a863664f4294a1ac?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Tues, Apr 19 2011 9:52 am
From: Keith

All:
I am looking for a Western Digital My Passport 500GB. Any price around $40 or so is great with me.
Based in San Diego, CA is also great with me. Please email me if you have such an "almost mint" HDD
for sale.

Keith

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Plugs but no jacks
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/387c4b30df150ab0?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Tues, Apr 19 2011 10:01 am
From: spamtrap1888

On Mar 14, 8:10 am, Jeff Liebermann <je...@cruzio.com> wrote:

> The magic Google buzz word is "3.5mm panel mount jack".  For example:
> <http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062450>
> You'll also need to specify 2, 3, or 4 (iPhone) conductors.
>
> <http://www.schurter.ch/var/schurter/storage/ilcatalogue/files/documen...>

I see Schurter also makes inline jacks, which I haven't seen IRL for
years and years.

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Tues, Apr 19 2011 1:10 pm
From: Baron

mm Inscribed thus:

> On Tue, 15 Mar 2011 10:56:35 +0000, baron
> <baron.nospam@linuxmaniac.nospam.net> wrote:
>
>>Fuddy Dud Inscribed thus:
>>
>>> Everybody sells 3.5mm plugs but nobody sells 3.5mm jack that you can
>>> mount and solder wires to. Is there a source? Most dealers don't
>>> even know the difference.
>>>
>>
>>Salvage some from old modems or PC sound cards !
>
> Wow. I'm still getting them from radios and portable tvs. I'm 3
> ahead now of the number I've used.

I've tins full of salvaged parts... The sad thing is that most if not
all of them will end up being thrown away as rubbish ! Probably by my
children after I pass on. :-(

--
Best Regards:
Baron.

==============================================================================

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