Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 14 updates in 6 topics

santaclausnorth90@gmail.com: Jan 30 08:37AM -0800

On Friday, January 14, 2011 at 10:28:36 AM UTC-7, Wild_Bill wrote:
> Cheers,
> WB
> .............
 
Wild Bill - I would like to find this cable also, so please post if you find one. The user manual for the GV-S50 says this port is "for future use."
"Arfa Daily" <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com>: Jan 30 09:28AM

"Phil Allison" <pallison49@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:3a6805ae-ec07-4e16-82dc-8dfdad6a4c84@googlegroups.com...
 
> All the letter codes on common fuses are for German words.
 
> F = " Flink " for quickly or rapid.
 
> http://www.thefusewarehouse.com/pages/learn_fuse_markings.php
 
Nah. They've got that wrong Phil. "FF" is Fuckin' Fast "F" is just Fast
"M" is Meedjum" "T" is Time and "TT" is Tea Time which I believe means
you've got enough time to make a cup of tea while it decides whether to blow
... :-)
 
Arfa
Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Jan 30 04:09AM -0800

Arfa Daily wrote:
 
> "M" is Meedjum" "T" is Time and "TT" is Tea Time which I believe means
> you've got enough time to make a cup of tea while it decides whether to blow
> ... :-)
 
** Works for me....
 
 
 
.... Phil
Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Jan 30 05:41AM -0800

John Robertson wrote:
 
 
 
> > http://www.thefusewarehouse.com/pages/learn_fuse_markings.php
 
> Isn't that chart just for the European fuses?
 
 
** Whooah - hold on a mo there.
 
Q. Who uses European standard fuses ?
 
A. Everyone does.
 
Common appliance fuses come in just two sizes: 20x5mm and 6.3x30mm or 3AG.

European and Asian makers produce both sizes and dominate the market because of lower cost. In 40 years of buying and using such fuses, I cannot remember seeing a pack labelled "Made in USA"
 
 
 
.... Phil
RAJESH KUMAR <rajeshkumar18007@gmail.com>: Jan 30 12:56AM -0800

hiiii frnd im new in this group im need schematic diagram 10203-1 b560 laptop
dansabrservices@yahoo.com: Jan 29 09:16AM -0800

What you are looking for is a push-on/push-off switch NOT a momentary switch. A momentary switch will only be "ON" while depressed.
 
Dan
mike <ham789@netzero.net>: Jan 29 09:29AM -0800

> What you are looking for is a push-on/push-off switch NOT a momentary switch. A momentary switch will only be "ON" while depressed.
 
> Dan
 
One of us is confused.
I say the referenced switch is what he says he needs.
Klay Anderson <klay@klay.com>: Jan 29 10:00AM -0800

On Thursday, January 29, 2015 at 9:42:55 AM UTC-7, humbled valiant wrote:
 
> I am running into "momentary pushbutton" switches such as this candidate:
 
> http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/pb-211/red-jumbo-pushbutton-switch/1.html
 
> Do switches like this meet my qualifications?
 
Yes. Those are called "arcade switches" and as long as you use the C and N.O. terminals it will stay closed as long as held down.
 
Yours truly,
Mr. Klay Anderson, D.A.,Q.B.E.
Tim R <timothy42b@aol.com>: Jan 29 11:14AM -0800

On Thursday, January 29, 2015 at 12:29:03 PM UTC-5, mike wrote:
 
> > Dan
 
> One of us is confused.
> I say the referenced switch is what he says he needs.
 
The one he referenced is single pole double throw, snap action. I would have interpreted that to act like a change of state relay.
Tim R <timothy42b@aol.com>: Jan 29 01:20PM -0800

On Thursday, January 29, 2015 at 2:14:51 PM UTC-5, Tim R wrote:
 
> > One of us is confused.
> > I say the referenced switch is what he says he needs.
 
> The one he referenced is single pole double throw, snap action. I would have interpreted that to act like a change of state relay.
 
Oh wait, I missed the word momentary in the product description. Never mind.
Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Jan 29 10:42PM -0800

humbled valiant wrote:
 
 
> I am running into "momentary pushbutton" switches such as this candidate:
 
> http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/pb-211/red-jumbo-pushbutton-switch/1.html
 
> Do switches like this meet my qualifications?
 
** Absolutely.
 
The linked example is "microswitch" with changeover contacts and a rather chunky actuator button.
 
Should be able to handle a fair amount of current and voltage too - long as it is switching AC.
 
 
.... Phil
mroberds@att.net: Jan 30 04:55AM

Crossposted to sci.electronics.repair; it gets more traffic.
 
> know how products can be knockoffs nowadays when it's all made in
> China anyway... But obviously many of them are just substandard
> batteries.
 
Sometimes if you scroll waaaay down and read the fine print, it will say
"compatible replacement", or some other words that mean that you're not
actually getting what is in the big picture at the top of the page.
 
> So what's your favorite online retailer for batteries? Or your
> favorite battery seller on eBay or Amazon?
 
Depends on what kind of battery it is. I am in the US so I look at US
suppliers.
 
For gel cells - the things that go in most every "computer" UPS under
1000 VA or so, house alarm systems, etc - I order from Digi-Key or
Mouser, either Panasonic or Power-Sonic brand. I've been unhappy with
every other brand of these that I've tried.
 
For NiMH AAs, the only online shopping I've done is a pack of Eneloops
from Amazon. As far as I can tell, I got genuine cells, and their
performance has been as expected. Make sure it says "sold by and ships
from Amazon.com" in the listing; I think there's a check box for that,
which you can use when searching.
 
For a Li-ion battery for an older cell phone, I sighed deeply and bought
from the seller with the most sales and best feedback who stocked that
particular battery on eBay. I'm pretty sure I got a genuine battery,
but it had an old date code; it had probably been sitting on the shelf
for a couple of years. It took a few charge cycles to wake back up, but
it is doing as well as can be expected.
 
I don't think I've ever bought alkaline / carbon-zinc primary batteries
online. I've checked prices from online-only sellers, but in the small
quantities of AAA, AA, C, D that I use, it's usually just about the same
as going to the local discount store. For coin or button batteries, the
local prices seem to be vastly inflated vs. online, but then the minimum
shipping charge cuts in. If I happened to be ordering something else
from Digi-Key or Mouser, then it might pay to order a coin cell from
them.
 
For NiCd power tool batteries, I had my existing packs rebuilt by a
local Batteries Plus store. I don't know what kind of cells they used,
but they work a lot better than the worn-out original ones, and the
rebuild price of about $35 was better than the new-pack price of $50+.
 
The last time I was involved with buying lead-acid traction batteries
several years ago, I think the place where I worked got them directly
from the manufacturer (Enersys, nee Hawker, nee Gates). That seemed to
work OK.
 
Standard disclaimers apply: I don't get money or other consideration
from any companies mentioned.
 
Matt Roberds
John Doe <always.look@message.header>: Jan 30 05:18AM

> say "compatible replacement", or some other words that mean that
> you're not actually getting what is in the big picture at the top of
> the page.
 
Talking about eBay. Yep, definitely something to look out for.
 
>> favorite battery seller on eBay or Amazon?
 
> Depends on what kind of battery it is. I am in the US so I look at US
> suppliers.
 
Yeah, I have been hitting the "USA" button when sorting eBay results.
Mainly because I don't want the order to take forever to get here. Partly
for fun, I recently ordered 5 (200 V 10 A) diodes shipped from China for
$1.50.
 
 
> For a Li-ion battery for an older cell phone, I sighed deeply and
> bought from the seller with the most sales and best feedback who
> stocked that particular battery on eBay.
 
Yep, same strategy here. Sometimes I checked their feedback for that
particular item. Not necessarily easy when they have tens of thousands,
though.
"humbled valiant" <nobody@nowhere.com>: Jan 29 03:24PM -0500

"bitrex" <bitrex@de.lete.earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:87ednYXsIqG5Z1vJnZ2dnUU7-K-dnZ2d@earthlink.com...
 
> --
 
> ----Android NewsGroup Reader----
> http://usenet.sinaapp.com/
 
you can't complain now. All of the pages with adult content are annotated.
 
http://www.stonetabernacle.com
You received this digest because you're subscribed to updates for this group. You can change your settings on the group membership page.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it send an email to sci.electronics.repair+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com.

No Response to "Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 14 updates in 6 topics"

Post a Comment