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Wayne Chirnside <barfnarts@faux.com>: Jan 31 02:53PM On Fri, 30 Jan 2015 05:18:53 +0000, John Doe wrote:     > Yep, same strategy here. Sometimes I checked their feedback for that > particular item. Not necessarily easy when they have tens of thousands, > though.     For button cells USA shipped I got Hilflower, Hillflower? Fast, worked, cheap.

John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Jan 30 11:27AM -0800 On 01/30/2015 5:41 AM, Phil Allison wrote:   > ..... Phil   On this side of the pond we have Cooper/BUSS fuses which say "Made in the USA" in my stock, just got some from Digi-Key.   I think you are in the UK, right Phil?   John :-#)#   -- (Please post followups or tech inquiries to the newsgroup) John's Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9 (604)872-5757 or Fax 872-2010 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) www.flippers.com "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Jan 30 10:54PM -0800 John Robertson wrote:     > On this side of the pond we have Cooper/BUSS fuses which say "Made in > the USA" in my stock, just got some from Digi-Key.   > I think you are in the UK, right Phil?     ** No, Sydney Australia.   Fuses come from either Asia or Europe via Farnell.       ... Phil

Cydrome Leader <presence@MUNGEpanix.com>: Jan 30 11:54PM > I have a fairly old Kepco Model 100-0.2M power supply with no output. Before I tear into the unit, I was hoping someone here would have a schematic, or know where to get one for free. The supply is too old to spend much $ on repairing, but I have a huge parts supply and hope to get it running again without spending much money.   kepco seem to be some real assholes. You can buy your manual for only $110   http://www.kepcopower.com/servicemanuals.htm

Theo Markettos <theom+news@chiark.greenend.org.uk>: Jan 30 08:59PM It seems to be the thing these days to build gadgets with glue rather than screws, so that all the bits like LCD, digitiser, battery and case are stuck together. This has caused much bewailing by the likes of iFixit, because things aren't fixable by a screwdriver any more.   I wonder whether the problem is that we need new tools and new approaches, rather than just giving up. For example, heat gun techniques seem to me a bad idea, because the heat goes away easily. It you're trying to lever the screen off with a few dozen guitar picks, that also places stress on the screen.   So I wonder what's a sensible heating method? For example, there's the 'hot pillow' approach: https://www.ifixit.com/Store/Tools/iOpener/IF145-198 Heat up pillow in microwave, apply to surface. For some reason this is a small pillow - I would have expected a better one would be the size of a dinner plate or larger, enough to take a whole tablet in one go. Or would that induce heating stresses in the screen?   Another approach is the temperature controlled table: http://www.lcdglue.com/product-p/01-0010.htm possibly with vacuum (either integral, or simply invert then use a sucker).   I wonder what kinds of household appliances could be abused to do the job? For instance, there's a nice use of toaster ovens as PCB reflow stations - just add a PID temperature controller.   Anyone done this and have any tips?   Thanks Theo

jurb6006@gmail.com: Jan 30 12:26PM -0800 Well, I have been through all the suggesyions and still come up blank. (at least on the Crate, the Peavey might match up to something, in fact I want another look at it because I didn't pull the bad ones out yet)   I have also checked CE Distribution and they supposedly specialize in this sort of thing. No got.   One is a Crate PCM6+. It only needs one that somehow developed a leakage path between phantom poer and one of the signal pis making an awful racket. It's seems to be extral long, the board sits behing the other board. Did they perhaps have them special made ?   The other is a Peavey XR-684. I think those are elcheapo. it came in with two broen and just in testing without manhandling it I broke another one. The center plastic pulls off and because of the pressure, the contacts make it impossible to just stick back on there. If I did that it would just fail agian anyway, plus I don't have the other two. I think it is only about a 12 channel or so, so if I ever find these things I will probably replace them all. Once I got the thing apart, why not save future customer trouble ? They're all the same age and I'm sure the plastic is brittle compared to new.   What you figure my chances are of dealing with these manufacturers ? Does anyone call Peavey or Crate and say "Send me bla bla bla and here's my credit card number" ?

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