Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 7 updates in 6 topics

Jeff Urban <jurb6006@gmail.com>: Jul 10 08:33PM -0700

If this is an SMPS it should never be really hot. The only things that can cause that are an overload or not enough drive.
 
If you really can't get a print you have to ear reverse engineering. To know the output terminals, now get to know the input terminals.
 
Figure out if it has a shunt resistor and/or a series resistor, and determine where that is coming from. You figure out what kind of drive it needs and you figure out the device. Then you can work on a replacement.
 
Termy secret 25. Take about a hundred watt audio amp, hook u a generator and feed it with like 3KHz. Almost anything will work. But crank it out ad see if you get the voltages on the other end.
 
The reason I say to do this live test, even if it is a bit of a bitch to do it is because if it is not bipolar drive problems are rare.
 
Before SMPSes came into vogue I used to use a variac. Just feed ANY winding of that transformer and see what happens. I think you are going to find something shorted. HA, if you got a good enough amp you can make the smoke come out and find the bad part quick.
 
I made a good life out of fixing what others could not. Now you don't have to buy a function generator, if you got a smartphone there is a app for that. You get a plug, plug it into a stereo with respectable power, and you got yourself a dandy piece of test equipment there.
 
if you need a 100 WPC amp I can sell you one for fifty bucks, but what it costs to ship might be out of this world. You got Craigslist where you are ? Deal locally in cash. Best way. Paranoid ? Get a gun.
 
Actually for the best bang for the buck get a Crow. Audiophiles don't seem to like them so they are not that expensive and you ru them into a short circuit they do not fry. They might trip a circuit breaker at your electric panel but they will be fine.
 
I have more advanced methods, but no time to type them out Just try that. THEN we talk about the transistors, I will need to know just how they are driven and you will have to run it and have it at east try to start to see what it puts on those gates or bases or whatever they have. That will tell us. Then we got it. All we have to do is accommodate it...
Jeff Urban <jurb6006@gmail.com>: Jul 10 08:06PM -0700

Actually a friend of mine worked out the formula The two pulley sizes and the distance between, derive the size.
 
I was surprised he had to figure it our, he was a process engineer in the aeronautics industry, like jet engines n shit But I guess they don't use belts. Now a guy who designs cars would know easily, but I don't know anyone who does or did. We redesigned cars, but not design them.
 
You send up the parameters I think I can get the specs for what you need. Pulley one and pulley two, and the distance between centers. If you don't have calipers places like Harbor Freight do for cheap, digital ones you don't even have to learn how to read.
Jeff Urban <jurb6006@gmail.com>: Jul 10 01:56PM -0700

On Wednesday, July 8, 2020 at 10:10:39 AM UTC-5, Tim R wrote:
> If your computer and OS still do what you need, I don't see why you would upgrade (other than if you're on line a lot and running XP and worried about malware.)
 
Malware schmalware. I am not worried about anything. I got a stack of PCs, if one started spewing flames I would not care. Wel maybe the smell and the mess.
 
 
> I'm running a dual boot XP and Mint on an old laptop. I use only Mint but keep it dual boot for that rare stuff that needs Windows.
 
I got one around here that runs XP in Virtualbox. Problem is trying to get it recognize a bunch of drives.
 
> My Google Chrome stopped working. It turned out I could not reload, because my system was 32 bit and Chrome now only runs 64 bit. The solution was Chromium, which works just as well, maybe better. You might want to consider changing browsers.
 
I can't stand Chrome. I'll give up the whole internet before I will submit to that shit.
 
I DLed the file for the upgrade to 52.9. We'll see how that goes. I don't now why I couldn't find it.
Jeff Urban <jurb6006@gmail.com>: Jul 10 01:43PM -0700

If I may be so bold as to get back to the topic... (I am not bitching, we cool)
 
"We" got a whole bunch of CROs. New scopes are LCD so they are old. They are getting the same way. Problems you wouldn't fucking believe.
 
We got a nice Kikusui, this thing runs like a Tek, but now it has a fault all the sudden. My cohort is trying to get it back up, he foud a few voltages low, once he adjusted them he got his trace beck but it won't calibrate.
 
It is weird, the HV is low but the trace is too small. Lower HV increases deflection sensitivity so what now ?
(Kikusui COS6100A)
 
The HV runs off the 12 volts. It has the usual multiplier for the HV, in this case a sextupler. It does not have direct feedback, just regulates from the front. (that means just by sampling the transformer pulses, no big resistor) that voltage was low, he adjusted it up and got horizontal sweep back.
 
Now how the hell can that happen ? the two have noting to do with each other. Except for that 12 volt source maybe, but he knows how to measure that, in fact I think he said it was 11.8 or something the should not keep it from working.
 
These are nice scopes. I like them better than some Teks, well the 2200 series. I don't care for them at all but would use them at gunpoint. I mean with no alternative I am sure they are fine, but I just don't like them. They don't have that Tek feel, but the Kiks do. A little bit different but still, Man they got split on the delayed time base, the controls are well layed out. We got an HP 1725A which cost a bunch more but at twice the price I would take the Kik.
 
In fact that 1725A, it has a haze. The trace is actually sharp but there is like a halo around it. there is a mesh in the CRT and I checked the voltage to it. It is probably a defective CRT. We got one I think, there was one that needed the vertical output and that is unobtainium. It was not much prioritized because we got others.
 
i actually built a vertical circuit for the other one and it worked. Frequency response was great, linear, all that - but not enough gain. I could not find a way to increase it and I got the best transistors I could find. It just would not calibrate because there was not enough range, and that means there was not enough gain ahead of it to compensate.
 
But you should have seen the 50MHz square wave on that thing. In fact they also have 50 ohm termination built in.
 
When anything gets old things get weird. Like my Jimmy. nice in some ways and nice and tough for the shit roads, and 4WD. i let it go because it needed yet ANOTHER radiator, tires, brakes, injectors and it was a Vortec which meas the cost ten times more. But what REALLY did it was the wiring. The switch did not work to pop the rear window, but it did pop when you put it in reverse. That was "Man I do not want to even try to deal with this".
 
HA, I had roomies at the time and let them drive it sometimes. I do not set the stations on the radio, it is along with me not wearing clothes with writing on them, I will tell you my views if I choose. I am not a billboard. Anyway, I made the guy go and find the right fuse to pull to return it to factory. "And no disconnecting the battery, I don't want the computer to have to relearn everything".
 
But it really was getting weird. And my Buick, I liked that car but towards the end same shit. Weird wiring problems. First it was the fuel pump, I had my wrench just wire it to "IGN". then the heater. the HEATER ? That wiring does not go to the back, there is no reason for it to screw up. But it did. Don't think I couldn't afford a good(er) car, I didn't want one. All but a few cars, I consider disposable. i mean the big block V8s, yeah I want to keep them. But the rest ? Even this Park avenue the engine eventual fell out of which was a nice comfortable car that drove really well was only a V6.
 
When things get old. One nice thing is it is making me get better at my skills. Troubleshooting. I no longer assume anything.
Pimpom <nobody@nowhere.com>: Jul 10 11:28PM +0530

On 7/10/2020 9:13 PM, amdx wrote:
> Any better google foo than mine?
> These first 5 pictures show the part.
> https://duckduckgo.com/?q=Toshiba+S5977+Diode+-satellite&t=ffnt&atb=v229-2&iax=images&ia=images
 
I found a datasheet for MG200J2YS50 but not for MG200J2YS45. The
first link is to the datasheet. The second document explains the
numbering convention. So the *50 is their 3rd generation device
while the *45 is 2nd generation.
https://preview.tinyurl.com/yc6ehta8
https://www.tvsat.com.pl/pdf/I/igbt_tos.pdf
amdx <amdx@knology.net>: Jul 10 01:57PM -0500

On 7/10/2020 12:58 PM, Pimpom wrote:
> 2nd generation.
> https://preview.tinyurl.com/yc6ehta8
> https://www.tvsat.com.pl/pdf/I/igbt_tos.pdf
 
I'm looking for the S5977.
 
I also have two MG200J2YS1 and two MG300J1US1 IGBTs, but I found those
data sheets.
Mikek
 
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mjb@signal11.invalid (Mike): Jul 10 06:06PM +0100

In article <8sUNG.72257$%p.20150@fx33.iad>,
 
>> I have Pioneer SX-700T and it not working,I don't know what wrong with
>> it
 
>Did the magic smoke come out? Simple fix, put the magic smoke back in!
 
Are the aerosol cans used to test smoke alarms a good substitute
for the original manufacturer's magic smoke?
 
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Mike Brown: mjb[-at-]signal11.org.uk | http://www.signal11.org.uk
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