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Cydrome Leader <presence@MUNGEpanix.com>: Jul 12 05:28AM > Mechanical things are even worse, I won't even work on cassette decks anymore. I'll do some of the better turntables and reel to reels.   > Yeah, a week or so ago I emailed a client with "I don't know if you can afford the parts for this, EIGHT CENTS".   > That is what it is, you can't fix the new shit and the old shit takes some real skill sometimes. Like 25 years ago "Blown channel, we got 3281s and 1302s ? Not no more.   I like parts that die just sitting on a shelf. Thermal fuses inside heating elements bug me the most. Not sure how they age. Other fuses sometimes just seem to die too. Remember when cheap-o imported AGC type fuses touted "electronically tested" on the packages? Guess it's nice to get 5 fuses out of a pack of 5 that work.   Just had the solid wire break off a crimp terminal as I flipped some over 180 degrees to put on more cover screws. That's annoying.   Anybody know what's in that beige "glue" all over 1980s electronics, usually on ribbon cables soldered directly to a board, like on receivers with digital displays? It's somtimes porous and seems to get way harder with time. Those ribbons cables seem to have a 3 flex endurance as well. They're the completely tinned ones just stiff enought ot press into some connectors.

Cydrome Leader <presence@MUNGEpanix.com>: Jul 12 05:13AM > mechanical meter because of what is known as mass. With totally > electronic ones you have to pull the juice so fast it clips, like an > audio amp.   Not following how pulses will not affect a mechanical meter. Magnemotive forces don't go away just because you're quick.   Clipping a digital meter sounds more possibly, unless your spikes confused them and they over charge you.   I had my electric bills go down after the old spinning meter was smashed by a meteor, and the company installed a digital meter. I suspect the drag magnets fade over time and the meters speed up.   > Generac, now look at its fuel consumption and you will see it costs a > hell of alot more.   > So my question just became - Why bother ?   Was just asking for a friend. I don't actually care much about my electric bill. If I want lights on, or to plug something in, I'm just going to do it. I won't be falling down the stairs because the lights were on a motion detector. I really hate stuff like that.

JC <Chipbee40_SpamNo@yahoo.com>: Jul 11 07:42PM -0400 Jeff Urban wrote: > If this is an SMPS it should never be really hot. The only things that can cause that are an overload or not enough drive. snip snip :)   Well yes, but in my experience SMPS run great until something goes wrong/ out of spec, then death. This is a $K bench supply so can't go crazy on it.       JC

Jeff Urban <jurb6006@gmail.com>: Jul 11 01:38PM -0700 Pretty good post on that Peter.   There are a few more things though. When the battery is bad it is usually a near open circuit. To restore it you need a much higher voltage and you have to babysit it unless you build a cool circuit for that. When it does not pull any charging current how can it charge ? And then sometimes you get a shorted cell.   Another thing is if it a not a gel cell you need to agitate it. Proof ? Charging a battery I kick it around a little and the ammeter on the charger goes up. That means I knocked the bubbles off the plates.   And then if you really can't get it to take a charge, (pull current) put epsom salt in it. That will restore almost any of them BUT, for one you can only do it once. If you do it again you risk a shorted cell and actually the thing might blow up. That is rare but it happens.   Another thing is the desulfater. You take 120 AC, put a light bulb in series like a DBT and hook that up for a while. A 100 watt bulb on 120 only lets a little more than one amp through, so it is safe.   The AC washes the plates, gets the nonconducting coating off them so they can work. It has to conduct or you get nothing. They actually sell desulfaters but you can do it with a light bulb. Some of the ones they sell use a higher frequency and I don't even know who to ask if that is better.   Anyway, there is no minimum charging current, it is all in how long it will take. Just to do not exceed the maximum. Charge it at 50 amps and the plates get all bent out of shape. And the thing could blow up, you know even if it can supply 50 amps it is not meant to do it all day. It can't. By the same token you cannot charge it all day at that rate.   Know what, just go to the boneyard and get an alternator from a 1970 luxury car. Get a motor and a belt. Those things look at the circuit and try to understand why the made them that way. They knew how to charge a battery.

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