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Tinydikswinger <0f8503901d844703eea1acecb7a4938a_2647@example.com>: Jul 16 11:18PM replying to Claude Desjardins, Tinydikswinger wrote: 120 psi hell if you are running the HF junkers have some fun and give em @ 180 -190psi ...They have a much diffrent sound at those pressures and the neighbors will all be over finding out jusy what the hell all that screaming is about. I usually run my high speed cutoffs and such that high but get good wheels because them Chinese garbage discs will wear out quick as all heck and they tend to fly apart at wellheck any speed so save yourself a trip to the ER and at least use good abrasives. Now party on fellers and lets also get them 7 1/4" saw cutoff wheels on them 4 1/2" angle grinders,they gyrate like no other and are only 1 hand operated then but its like supercharging your lil grinder. Rip shit and have fun     -- for full context, visit https://www.polytechforum.com/metalworking/how-to-bypass-dremel-tool-internal-variable-speed-control-77099-.htm

"pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Jul 17 03:40AM -0700 13 years later......

Allodoxaphobia <trepidation@example.net>: Jul 17 12:45AM > I have a TELKO S0088 infrared alarm .How do i reprogram it?   Who are yoyu asking? -- Randy Bray who posted the article you're threading on to TWENTY THREE YEARS AGO? !!!   Sheeeesh! Google Groopers!

John Ozz <johno6676@caltom.net>: Jul 16 01:18PM -0400 I have a Yongnuo 460 camera flash where I added a wire sticking out the side so I could use an external battery several years ago. Since the flash saw hardly any use until recently, now any shortcuts I used at the time are rearing their ugly heads.   One of the wires disconnected from inside the flash. I repaired it (by resoldering), but the same situation occurs externally: anytime the flash is moved, strain occurs where the wire enters the flash and it's only a matter of time before something disconnects again.   So, how I can relieve strain here? For now, I took some JB Quickweld and dabbed it around the wires exiting the flash with the wires temporarily being held in place with tape. It's shown here:   https://i.imgur.com/KH6avoo.jpg   I'm not sure how well the epoxy will bond to the flash housing and, even if there is a decent bond, I'm sure this won't hold up over the long term.   Please note that this is a hacked flash. Not something I'd ever sell, just something decent I keep around for photography around the home.   Any suggestions for an easy to implement, more permanent strain relief method would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

"pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Jul 16 10:25AM -0700 Automotive (High-Temperature) RTV Silicon comes immediately to mind. Flexible, will 'bond' to about anything and easily removed should the need arise.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

whit3rd <whit3rd@gmail.com>: Jul 16 10:48AM -0700 On Thursday, July 16, 2020 at 10:18:39 AM UTC-7, John Ozz wrote:   > One of the wires disconnected from inside the flash. I repaired it (by > resoldering), but ... > So, how I can relieve strain here?   Three methods: first, you could put a grommet around the hole, and tie a knot or apply a wire-tie so the cord cannot pull out. Some grommet gizmos can snap into D or double-D holes and clamp the wires. Second, you could put (clamp, screw, glue) a connector to the case , so that strain on the external wire doesn't wiggle the internal wire. You'd use this with a cord that has the mating connector, of course. Third, the battery-substitution can use a dummy battery (whittled from wood?) so that cord stress acts on a battery-shaped object that is contained in the battery compartment.

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Jul 16 04:23PM -0700 On Thu, 16 Jul 2020 13:18:34 -0400, John Ozz <johno6676@caltom.net> wrote:   >and dabbed it around the wires exiting the flash with the wires >temporarily being held in place with tape. It's shown here:   >https://i.imgur.com/KH6avoo.jpg   The JB Weld is too hard to use as a strain relief. Instead, I suggest either some silicone caulking compound: <https://www.gesealants.com/Products/Advanced-Silicone-2-Kitchen-Bath-Sealant.aspx> or Sugru: <https://sugru.com> You want something that's "rubbery", not something that's hard.   >I'm not sure how well the epoxy will bond to the flash housing and, even >if there is a decent bond, I'm sure this won't hold up over the long term.   I can't tell from here. If the flash housing is made from simulated leather or paper, it's likely to be rather greasy. Cleaning with 91% alcohol will help, but the only way to tell for sure is to try a small amount of epoxy, RTV, silicone caulk, or Sugru and see which will stick. However, even if it sticks, pulling on the glue will probably cause the simulated leather or paper covering to peel off the metal flash housing.   >just something decent I keep around for photography around the home.   >Any suggestions for an easy to implement, more permanent strain relief >method would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.   Drill a hole. Insert a brass rivet with a hole in the center. Shove the wire through the hole. Seal with RTV or silicone caulk on both sides. The brass rivet will prevent the simulated leather or paper covering from peeling off.   -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Jul 16 02:52PM -0700 abrsvc wrote:   =============   > None of the Princeton models that I found have the chips you describe.   ----------------------------   See:   http://www.kobra.hr/Schematics/Chorus/Fender%20Princeton%20%20Stereo%20Chorus.jpg     The repair is a job for an experienced amp tech with the usual test gear on hand - scope, audio gen etc.       .... Phil

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