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cvalona09@gmail.com: Jul 15 10:53PM -0700 Hello, I have a 1988 Fender Princeton Chorus amp, I believe this was the first year model.   I have a faint chorus sound/FX in both the rate & the depth controls.   I replaced the MN 3007 & MN 3001 chips today, but still no real change. The chorus FX is there, but really faint.   Both speakers are working, both sides of the amp seem to be working and the amp is totally stock. Nobody has changed anything except for what I did today.   Can you help me ? Maybe tell me what else to change ?   I can't read a schematic at all, so please if you could be so kind, please explain where to find the parts that you might suggest that I try changing.   Stay safe, Charles   NOTE: I live at least 200 miles from the nearest repair station so I'd really like to fix this problem myself with your help of course :)

Pimpom <nobody@nowhere.com>: Jul 16 12:49PM +0530 > you might suggest that I try changing.   > Stay safe, Charles   > NOTE: I live at least 200 miles from the nearest repair station so I'd really like to fix this problem myself with your help of course :)   Can you post a link to the schematic? This will help others help you even if you can't read it yourself. The exact model number and a photo will also be helpful.

abrsvc <dansabrservices@yahoo.com>: Jul 16 05:05AM -0700 None of the Princeton models that I found have the chips you describe. Can you post the exact model from the plate? The only Princeton Chorus model I found has DSP in the model name as well.   I have some hardcopy schematics around that I will check as well, but any additional info you can provide will help.   Dan

Pimpom <nobody@nowhere.com>: Jul 16 06:59PM +0530 On 7/16/2020 5:35 PM, abrsvc wrote: > None of the Princeton models that I found have the chips you describe. Can you post the exact model from the plate? The only Princeton Chorus model I found has DSP in the model name as well.   Same here. That's why I asked the OP to provide more details. I couldn't find any model using a BBD.

abrsvc <dansabrservices@yahoo.com>: Jul 16 06:45AM -0700 Without the schematic, based upon the symptoms described:   1) The "delay" portion is working as expected 2) The delayed signal amplitude is smaller than expected. This would suggest that there is likely an op-amp down stream that is not working correctly or at all. Look for a TC072 or perhaps a 4558 IC that is faulty post the MN chips.   Dan

Wond <lost@the.ether.net>: Jul 16 02:33PM On Thu, 16 Jul 2020 06:45:11 -0700, abrsvc wrote:   > likely an op-amp down stream that is not working correctly or at all. > Look for a TC072 or perhaps a 4558 IC that is faulty post the MN chips.   > Dan   Or high ESR coupling cap?

bilou <bilou@sfr.fr>: Jul 14 09:42AM +0200 On 29/06/2020 07:19, Jeff Urban wrote: > Alright fuck it. There is one way.   > You "tap" the power for milliseconds but at a very high peak current which is maybe the same wattage but you have done it so fast the meter misses some of it.   > That is the ONLY way to really beat it and I am not sure it works on non-mechanical meters.   That is false. Short pulses are used to drive power tools at low speed. Now if you use short pulses you need BIG currents and the losses in wiring resistance increase a lot. Inductance too start to be problematic. Think of when you drive a nail in wood with a hammer.

Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Jul 13 07:15PM -0500 On 7/13/20 6:58 PM, Michael Terrell wrote: > Ask Marge Schott. She was in trouble after CG&E discovered > the current transformers had been shunted at Riverfront Stadium.   I'm sure it worked well. Until she got caught. I'm pretty sure that's when the "more trouble than it's worth" kicked in.       -- "I am a river to my people." Jeff-1.0 WA6FWi http:foxsmercantile.com

Clifford Heath <no.spam@please.net>: Jul 14 01:40PM +1000 On 14/7/20 9:38 am, Jeff Urban wrote: >> Not following how pulses will not affect a mechanical meter   > Because of inertia. The current moves a wheel in there if you hit it fast enough it cannot accelerate fast enough.   It can always accelerate fast enough. A localised short (microseconds or so) sharp pulse just deforms the metal briefly, storing the energy in spring action. As long as the metal is elastic, that energy will spread to a uniform acceleration.   When you put a ceramic cup down on a stone benchtop, it comes to rest in the distance and time for which the surfaces are *deformed*. Even when they're heavy, dense and brittle. That's true of any impact. Same deal with an inertial pulse delivered by electromagnetism.   CH

Cydrome Leader <presence@MUNGEpanix.com>: Jul 16 07:44AM > needed. Then depending on what kind of panel you got you might have to > get ahead of the main breaker to even do that. Then you might blow their > fuses outside.   power meters don't measure accelaration. They measure the number of times the aluminum disc turns. Forces applied to the disc make it spin. If they are enough to overcome the drag of turning, it will move.   > It is not easy to steal power, in fact any effective means is usually > more trouble than it's worth.   agreed.

b.buitenman@gmail.com: Jul 15 09:50PM -0700 I have a TELKO S0088 infrared alarm .How do i reprogram it?

Cydrome Leader <presence@MUNGEpanix.com>: Jul 12 05:28AM > Mechanical things are even worse, I won't even work on cassette decks anymore. I'll do some of the better turntables and reel to reels.   > Yeah, a week or so ago I emailed a client with "I don't know if you can afford the parts for this, EIGHT CENTS".   > That is what it is, you can't fix the new shit and the old shit takes some real skill sometimes. Like 25 years ago "Blown channel, we got 3281s and 1302s ? Not no more.   I like parts that die just sitting on a shelf. Thermal fuses inside heating elements bug me the most. Not sure how they age. Other fuses sometimes just seem to die too. Remember when cheap-o imported AGC type fuses touted "electronically tested" on the packages? Guess it's nice to get 5 fuses out of a pack of 5 that work.   Just had the solid wire break off a crimp terminal as I flipped some over 180 degrees to put on more cover screws. That's annoying.   Anybody know what's in that beige "glue" all over 1980s electronics, usually on ribbon cables soldered directly to a board, like on receivers with digital displays? It's somtimes porous and seems to get way harder with time. Those ribbons cables seem to have a 3 flex endurance as well. They're the completely tinned ones just stiff enought ot press into some connectors.

vjp2.at@at.BioStrategist.dot.dot.com: Jul 14 04:15PM Before the new year )not exactl sure when, cudda been a year ago) I saw a hairline fracture on my 2007 laptop. I assumed since it is still working so much later, it is not mercury vapor. If it was mercury it would have all leaked away, right? I looked at the specs and a few models were made with mercury but most not. So today I played with the scratch with my fingernail. It is under some plastic layer. And it began to streak from the scratch upwards and downwards, and at the bottom of the screen it looked like liquid leak collecting. Turned it off and it was still there when back on. Ok, how much worse is it? How long will it survive? Is it toxic? OK, it's LIQUID crystal. But nothing seems to have "gotten out". I have a few discolored knicks on my Kindle but they dona't seem to effect operation (I had dropped my keys on it).       - = - Vasos Panagiotopoulos, Columbia'81+, Reagan, Mozart, Pindus blog: panix.com/~vjp2/ruminatn.htm - = - web: panix.com/~vjp2/vasos.htm facebook.com/vasjpan2 - linkedin.com/in/vasjpan02 - biostrategist.com ---{Nothing herein constitutes advice. Everything fully disclaimed.}---

Sjouke Burry <burrynulnulfour@ppllaanneett.nnll>: Jul 14 06:35PM +0200 > blog: panix.com/~vjp2/ruminatn.htm - = - web: panix.com/~vjp2/vasos.htm > facebook.com/vasjpan2 - linkedin.com/in/vasjpan02 - biostrategist.com > ---{Nothing herein constitutes advice. Everything fully disclaimed.}---   Air is getting in and air is no good medium to replace the lcd layer. Also some conducting lines covering the glass layer(s) get broken. The screen is finished.

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