sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Google Groups

Mike Hooker <mhooker32@gmail.com>: Nov 25 11:18AM -0800 > On Sunday, November 7, 2021 at 3:21:43 PM UTC-5, palli...@gmail.com wrote:   > > Drop dead.   > You and Sloman make all Australians look like fools.   i got the scope working. it was a combination of two things i believe. it doesnt have an internal trigger, i was triggering it with a d cell battery. that would give me a brief trace, enough to see it wasnt full screen. i found an open 470k resistor for a horizontal drive tube and replaced it. after replacing it, triggering it with the battery, the trace line looked full screen. i was happy, and took it from from where i work ( a railroad) to test on my truck. when i did, i got nothing. i m like WTF? after beating the internet bushes, i found the assembly manual for the unit. it was gold. it showed how to troubleshoot it using a jumper to generate a constant trace line, and another jumper to get vertical defection. it also had some scope patterns at various tube pins. after going over it, i was missing a 220 v waveform . i found a thin solid core wire from the 340V rail to a lug on a horizonal tube detached. didnt even know it was there .it was buried, hard to see, and right up against lug, but broken off. probably broke off when i brought it home. i might have compromised it replacing the open resistor, one end was on the same lug. there was also a helpul video on youtube about how defection place on a crt work. i learned a lot. i never repaired anything tube, or crt's with deflection plates, only yokes. anyway, a few people here gave good advice , one guy was a total dick, as he usually is here. thanks to all who helped.

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Nov 25 12:53PM -0800 mhoo...@gmail.com wrote: ==================== > that would give me a brief trace, enough to see it wasnt full screen. > i found an open 470k resistor for a horizontal drive tube and replaced it. > after replacing it, triggering it with the battery, the trace line looked full screen.   ** I posted this advice over 3 weeks ago !!   " Try checking all the resistors in the horizontal circuits - after the scope has been off for 15 mins. One might have gone high or open. " Seems the cockhead OP * finally* took note of it. --------------------------------------------------------------------------------- > never repaired anything tube, or crt's with deflection plates, only yokes.   ** It that a yoke ?   > anyway, a few people here gave good advice , one guy was a total dick,     ** Yeah - Terrell is a complete asshole.     ..... Phil

"Peter W." <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Nov 25 01:53PM -0800 ....one guy was a total dick, as he usually is here. thanks to all who helped.   That would be the Drongo from Down Under.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Nov 25 02:17PM -0800 Peter Wanker = rabid lunatic wrote: ---------------------------------------------------- > ....one guy was a total dick, as he usually is here. thanks to all who helped.   > That would be the Drongo from Down Under.   ** ROTFLMAO !!   The OP is clueless, utter moron. So an instant pal for Peter Wanker.

legg <legg@nospam.magma.ca>: Nov 25 09:28PM -0500 On Thu, 25 Nov 2021 11:18:39 -0800 (PST), Mike Hooker   >> You and Sloman make all Australians look like fools.   >i got the scope working. it was a combination of two things i believe. it doesnt have an internal trigger, i was triggering it with a d cell battery. that would give me a brief trace, enough to see it wasnt full screen. i found an open 470k resistor for a horizontal drive tube and replaced it. after replacing it, triggering it with the battery, the trace line looked full screen. i was happy, and took it from from where i work ( a railroad) to test on my truck. when i did, i got nothing. i m like WTF? after beating the internet bushes, i found the assembly manual for the unit. it was gold. it showed how to troubleshoot it using a jumper to generate a constant trace line, and another jumper to get vertical defection. it also had some scope patterns at various tube pins. after going over it, i was missing a 220 v waveform . i found a thin solid core wire from the 340V rail to a lug on a horizonal tube detached. didnt even know it was there .it was buried, hard to see, and >right up against lug, but broken off. probably broke off when i brought it home. i might have compromised it replacing the open resistor, one end was on the same lug. there was also a helpul video on youtube about how defection place on a crt work. i learned a lot. i never repaired anything tube, or crt's with deflection plates, only yokes. anyway, a few people here gave good advice , one guy was a total dick, as he usually is here. thanks to all who helped.     Good to hear this.   happy scoping.   RL

"Peter W." <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Nov 25 02:01PM -0800 We have four (4) carpets made in Egypt that we purchased in Saudi Arabia. They are of a typical "oriental" pattern and may be seen here:   https://images.rugimg.com/3119204/3119204_image_1010.jpg?width=2000&quality=55&height=2000&fit=bounds   However, they are as much an Oriental Rug as 'Acrylic' lacquer is lacquer. Being as they are made of polypropylene on a machine. Lacquer, to anyone that restores vintage radio is *only* a liquid made of shellac dissolved in alcohol. Synthetic 'lacquer' is entirely something else, of course.   Drongo: Define your terms; it will look less the idiot that you are.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Nov 25 02:14PM -0800 Peter Wanker is a Ridiculous IDIOT wrote: ========================================   > We have four (4) carpets made in Egypt that we purchased in Saudi Arabia.   ** But do any of them fly ? If so - go take a ride on one.   > Drongo: Define your terms;   ** FFS you illiterate, autistic bloody fool - read what I *actually* wrote !!!     ..... Phil

"Peter W." <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Nov 25 05:06PM -0800 As it happens, you wrote a whole lot of garbage to make yourself look useful. But had nothing to do with the question at hand.   Drongo:   A fool, a simpleton, an idiot.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

bitrex <user@example.net>: Nov 25 12:32PM -0500 On 11/25/2021 9:28 AM, Tim R wrote:   >> John :-#)# >> --   > Just curious. That's an older 61 key synth, per google. (I'd not heard of a 54 key keyboard so I looked it up.) So why are there only 54 switches for 61 keys?   Don't think he's talking about the keyboard (which then was probably using those rubber cup-type membrane switches that also get gunked up, but can often be cleaned up to work nice again with some isopropyl), those are the 54 buttons on the user interface:   <https://img.audiofanzine.com/images/u/product/normal/roland-jv-80-851.jpg>   Enormously complex and poorly-organized user interfaces are something of a Roland/Japanese signature, the claim goes Japanese buyers love studying user manuals.   Nice-sounding synths, though, if you can figure them out.

Rayner Lucas <usenet202101@magic-cookie.co.ukNOSPAMPLEASE>: Nov 25 07:35PM In article <196f12fc-8cb7-4f4f-bd9d-c33de47d63b7n@googlegroups.com>, timothy42bach@gmail.com says...   > Just curious. That's an older 61 key synth, per google. (I'd not heard > of a 54 key keyboard so I looked it up.) So why are there only 54 > switches for 61 keys?   I'm guessing that's the tactile switches used for selecting various functions, rather than the keys themselves (although I count 56 push- buttons rather than 54). This seems to be a known failure mode on some older Roland synths; there are certainly maintenance kits out there with the appropriate numbers of switches.   I should really get around to fixing my two broken D-50s, which do have temperamental buttons, but also have more immediate problems (one has random bursts of noise, the other has been previously "repaired" by someone whose desoldering technique could hardly have been more destructive if they'd used a blowtorch and chisel).   R

bitrex <user@example.net>: Nov 25 03:03PM -0500 On 11/25/2021 2:35 PM, Rayner Lucas wrote: > someone whose desoldering technique could hardly have been more > destructive if they'd used a blowtorch and chisel).   > R   My impression of Roland from the 80s/early 90s is that quality control wasn't great, they seem to have more problems at this point. Yamaha stuff were tanks

Andy Burns <usenet@andyburns.uk>: Nov 25 07:37PM Saperstein wrote:   >  Although I have it on a timer now so it doesn't heat continually, I'd rather > go with something weight activated so that, once the cat steps onto it, it comes > on and is otherwise off.   Would that "work" as far as the cat is concerned?   i.e. does it only lay on the pad because it's already warm from the timer, or do you think it has it formed a habit that it'll continue to use it, even if it's cold when it lies down?

You received this digest because you're subscribed to updates for this group. You can change your settings on the group membership page. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it send an email to sci.electronics.repair+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com.