- Making connection to very fine wire? - 10 Updates
| Three Jeeps <jjhudak4@gmail.com>: Nov 27 09:12AM -0800 > BTW - I want to use this for its size & flexibility, to attach an LED to > be fed into small spaces for illumination. > Thanks, Bob Some sort of chemical etch to remove the enamel would be ideal but I don't know of any. Maybe some experienced ppl that have done this and that hang out here can be of help. What has worked for me is to use some extremely fine sandpaper, e.g. >500 grit and gently drag it across the strands. It is a delicate balance of using enough force to mechanically remove the enamel and not stress/break the strands. I've also use a exacto/modeling knife to scrape away the enamel but not nicking the wire to the point of breaking it is tricky. A magnifying glass comes in hands for this kind of work. You can then use flux to help remove remaining impurities & enamel when soldering. Wrapping the strands around a thicker piece of copper conductor, tie in place with a piece of copper wire to secure it may be helpful. There is also a technique where thin solder is wrapped around the joint, heat the wires and at some point the solder will melt. I don't know of any crimp that would work in this situation as they use mechanical force to make a connection. With this fine a wire, I don't think it would hold up. Good luck J |
| Ralph Mowery <rmowery42@charter.net>: Nov 27 12:23PM -0500 In article <gQqoJ.126330$IW4.67570@fx48.iad>, BobEngelhardt@comcast.net says... > error if somebody has experience with this. > BTW - I want to use this for its size & flexibility, to attach an LED to > be fed into small spaces for illumination. Depending on the varnish there are several ways to get it off not counting the scrapeing . Some will burn the varnish off with the heat of the soldering iron. On others I have taken a butane lighter and burnt off the insulation then clean off the burnt part. |
| "malua mada!" <fritzo2ster@gmail.com>: Nov 27 12:06PM -0800 > counting the scrapeing . Some will burn the varnish off with the heat > of the soldering iron. On others I have taken a butane lighter and > burnt off the insulation then clean off the burnt part. Most varnish will break down at soldering temperature. To get up to temp work against a firm insulating surface ( newspaper) (rather than working in mid-air) so you get good pressure and heat transfer. Tin the wires the same way. having extra flux to brush on may help. |
| Bob Engelhardt <BobEngelhardt@comcast.net>: Nov 28 09:46AM -0500 On 11/27/2021 11:03 AM, Liz Tuddenham wrote: > My experience with trying to connect enamel-coated wire (much thicker > gauge than yours) to a 'chocolate block' terminal was that the screw cut > through the copper before it punctured the enamel. ... That saves me some time & frustration of trying it myself, thanks. > through it and fill it with solder. This usually results in a > connection, especially if you scrape the wire a bit while it is > surrounded by molten solder. Great idea. Even if the strands are solderable, this could be a good way to manage such small strands. > If that is a bit too big for your purposes, you could try something > similar by lacing the wire through a solder blob on a small piece of > perforated Veroboard. Maybe as the last resort :-) |
| Bob Engelhardt <BobEngelhardt@comcast.net>: Nov 28 09:55AM -0500 On 11/27/2021 12:12 PM, Three Jeeps wrote: > Some sort of chemical etch to remove the enamel would be ideal but I don't know of any. ... I have a bottle of methylene chloride (the stuff good paint strippers used to be made with) - it would be worth a try. > What has worked for me is to use some extremely fine sandpaper, e.g. >500 grit and gently drag it across the strands. It is a delicate balance of using enough force to mechanically remove the enamel and not stress/break the strands. I've also use a exacto/modeling knife to scrape away the enamel but not nicking the wire to the point of breaking it is tricky. A magnifying glass comes in hands for this kind of work. "it is tricky" indeed - I have had the frustration of trying. I might come to being desperate enough to do it again. ... > There is also a technique where thin solder is wrapped around the joint, heat the wires and at some point the solder will melt. That would be a good way to keep all those tiny strands in place > I don't know of any crimp that would work in this situation as they use mechanical force to make a connection. With this fine a wire, I don't think it would hold up. I agree Thanks for the help |
| Bob Engelhardt <BobEngelhardt@comcast.net>: Nov 28 09:58AM -0500 On 11/27/2021 12:23 PM, Ralph Mowery wrote: > counting the scrapeing . Some will burn the varnish off with the heat > of the soldering iron. On others I have taken a butane lighter and > burnt off the insulation then clean off the burnt part. I'll try the soldering iron. I suspect that any flame might destroy the copper along with the varnish - it is really thin. Either way, the burnt residue would have to be dealt with. RA flux might do it. Thanks |
| Bob Engelhardt <BobEngelhardt@comcast.net>: Nov 28 10:03AM -0500 On 11/27/2021 3:06 PM, malua mada! wrote: >> of the soldering iron. On others I have taken a butane lighter and >> burnt off the insulation then clean off the burnt part. > Most varnish will break down at soldering temperature. To get up to temp work against a firm insulating surface ( newspaper) (rather than working in mid-air) so you get good pressure and heat transfer. Tin the wires the same way. having extra flux to brush on may help. Heat is beginning to sound like the best approach, thanks. |
| Bob Engelhardt <BobEngelhardt@comcast.net>: Nov 28 10:06AM -0500 Thanks "guys". I'll followup with my results. |
| root <NoEMail@home.org>: Nov 28 04:09PM > BTW - I want to use this for its size & flexibility, to attach an LED to > be fed into small spaces for illumination. > Thanks, Bob With earphone cables it has been my experience that you can simply solder the wires without stripping them. The coating seems to vanish under the solder flux. |
| Chuck <chuck23@dejanews.net>: Nov 28 10:14AM -0600 On Sun, 28 Nov 2021 09:55:34 -0500, Bob Engelhardt >> I don't know of any crimp that would work in this situation as they use mechanical force to make a connection. With this fine a wire, I don't think it would hold up. >I agree >Thanks for the help Methylene chloride is what we used as a stripper when we soldered ends on Monster rca cables. |
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