Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 25 updates in 3 topics

Frank <Frank@frank..net>: Jan 18 12:01PM -0500

On 1/18/2023 11:18 AM, Mighty✅ Wannabe✅ wrote:
 
> Although deionized water is 6 times more expensive than distilled water,
> but one gallon goes a long way.
 
> Use deionized water if you want the best for your lead-acid battery.
 
Think those costs are off with two different sources and sizes.
 
Google sez this:
 
"However, in general, distilled water is more expensive than deionized
water. This is because it takes more time and energy to produce
distilled water, and it also requires special equipment that not all
companies have."
 
When I worked in the lab we had a distilled water line to every bench
but it was replaced by deionized water to save cost.
 
Been decades since I had a car battery that needed water but I am
hearing it is better to put distilled or demineralized water in your car
radiator if needed as minerals are bad there too.
micky <NONONOmisc07@fmguy.com>: Jan 18 12:02PM -0500

In alt.home.repair, on Wed, 18 Jan 2023 16:21:25 +0000, Peter
>hydrogen, so that means that you want to put the donor battery cable on
>last (because that's where the spark will be and the donor battery is
>presumed to have less hydrogen outgassing).
 
Oh yeah, I think they say to do that too, but I've never worried about
that. And I've gotten tired of standing there holding my battery cables
waiting for someone to offer me a jump, so I bought what is no longer
sold, Battery Buddy. It was great. When the car voltage got low, it
disconnected the battery and all you had to do was open the hood, push a
big red button, and the car woulds start. The first one lasted iirc 12
years, but I had planned ahead and bought another, tthat came in an
unlabeled brown box. It lasted only a year or two. I think it came from
their stack of likely defective ones, that say in a corner until the
company folded. (a lot of assumptions here, but I coudlnt' find any
more for sale.)
 
Finally I found Priority Start, 4 or 5 times the price, but it has a
motor, so all I have to do is sit in the driver's seat and put my foot
on the brake and it reconnects the battery. I've had it 3 or 4 years
and I've used it twice and it's great. It seems to be made mostly for
commerical trucking fleets, so they would lose money if the truck
doesn't start, and they tolerate the higher price.
https://www.prioritystart.com/
http://www.mcssl.com/store/prioritystart/12vpromax
https://www.mcssl.com/store/prioritystart/models
 
I had a lot of trouble connecting the Toyota battery cable to this
thing. Toyota's seem pretty good but their battery connectors leave a
lot to be desired. Or some related problem.
 
The car radio forgets most of what it wants knew, and the engine timing
information is forgotten I guess, although I've never noticed a change
in how the car runs, at least not for more than 5 minutes. Newer cars
might forget even more, but at least I wasn't late to my doctor's
appointment.
>(B) Put the positive on the donor car last because you have less chance
> of accidentally shorting the circuit & the donor has less outgassing
 
>Which is more logical?
 
I don't see any reason to doubt what the poobahs say.
Charles Lucas <clsnowyowl@gmail.com>: Jan 18 09:05AM -0800

One of the reasons why the specific order is indicated (that is "Positive First" is attached
and then "Negative Last" is attached when connecting a car battery- and the when
disconnecting a battery, the Negative is disconnected first, followed by the positive
last- vice versa when connecting and disconnecting as just explained in this order)
for a few reasons.
 
First of all, with DC, it is direct current. By doing as instructed with the negative terminal,
you minimize or eliminate electrostatic discharge (which can be harder on other components),
the memory circuits on either a car or other device are "cleared" or re-initialized in this way,
and it minimizes the risk of a short circuit (or the positive and negative "touching") when this
is done. So, it saves your components (and your battery too).
 
Good Luck.
 
Charles Lucas
Slevin <slevin@192.168.1.1>: Jan 18 05:37PM

Peter wrote:
 
> Overall, does ANYONE have ANY real data that tap water actually degrades a
> car batter enough for someone to actually measure the results in 5 years?
 
I've got a 6 year old U1 lawn tractor battery in the snow thrower and a
8 year old U1 in the zero turn. I use RO water to replenish both when
needed.
 
Off season, I throw a Battery Minder Plus 1510 on them so they don't
discharge/freeze/sulfate.
John Robertson <jrr@flippers.com>: Jan 18 09:54AM -0800

On 2023/01/17 8:33 p.m., mike wrote:
 
> I'm not disputing that since I'm the one asking the question, but didn't
> that article above say the opposite?
> They said to connect a negative cable last to the chassis of the dead car.
 
The point is to first connect the positive lead to the battery positive,
and then the negative lead AWAY FROM THE BATTERY by connecting to the
engine metal. In that order for safety.
 
After the engine starts, then disconnect the negative lead that is AWAY
FROM THE BATTERY so any spark created at the disconnect point is
unlikely to cause the battery to explode if hydrogen gas was created.
Perhaps you left the jumpers connected for a few minutes while charging
the battery which leads to more hydrogen gas which makes a spark more
and more likely/dangerous as time goes on...
 
John :-#)#
--
(Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup)
John's Jukes Ltd.
#7 - 3979 Marine Way, Burnaby, BC, Canada V5J 5E3
(604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
www.flippers.com
"Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."
"Mighty✅ Wannabe✅" <@.>: Jan 18 01:34PM -0500

Frank wrote on 1/18/2023 12:01 PM:
 
> Been decades since I had a car battery that needed water but I am
> hearing it is better to put distilled or demineralized water in your
> car radiator if needed as minerals are bad there too.
 
Distilled water is good enough for being devoid of "almost" all
impurities except some ions. Distilled water is still quite conductive
if you test a glass of distilled water with a multimeter.
 
Deionized water for home use is done with a canister of resin beads
inline with your water pipe. The water is passed through the canister
that can capture most, but not all the ions. Since the resin beads has
charges that can capture only ionized particles in the water, other
impurities in the water that have no electrical charges will not be
captured.
 
Therefore, as I have explained before, the highest grade of pure water
is deionized water made from distilled water.
 
Theoretically pure H2O does not conduct electricity, but in reality only
deionized water made from distilled water can approached that
theoretical state of being purely dielectric.
 
https://puretecwater.com/deionized-water/what-is-deionized-water
micky <NONONOmisc07@fmguy.com>: Jan 18 02:42PM -0500

In alt.home.repair, on Wed, 18 Jan 2023 16:21:25 +0000, Peter
>(B) Put the positive on the donor car last because you have less chance
> of accidentally shorting the circuit & the donor has less outgassing
 
>Which is more logical?
 
There is also C: Put the positive on the recipient car last because you
have less chance of accidentally shorting the circuit & there is no
hydrogen there.
 
Of A and B, they might both be logoical but B is more important.
Shorting the donor battery, even at the other car, is going to cause a
lot more trouble, cause a lot more damage, than hydrogen gases. That's
why B is recommended.
 
Usually the guy helping me is also putting the cables on his car, but I
still look at them before I finish my car. For various reason, I've
had many dead batteries. Once a pretty girl stopped to give my car
battery a jump.
ehsjr <ehsjr@verizon.net>: Jan 18 03:08PM -0500

On 1/18/2023 10:28 AM, Peter wrote:
 
>> Think it out first - then decide.
 
> I'm thinking... I'm thinking... I'm trying to think this thing out.
> I don't think it matters all that much which cable goes first or last.
 
Yes it does. First, set any thoughts of sparks causing an explosion
aside. That's a *very* low probability occurrence as compared to the
real reason. Unfortunately, a lot of people focus on the sparks
issue and don't mention the real reason. And please note that the real
reason also involves sparks.
 
The real reason has been mentioned earlier, but apparently
needs to be repeated, maybe with more detail, so here goes.
The real reason: there is a huge area of metal in the engine
compartment, the car bumpers and fenders (if metal) etc. It
is very easy to inadvertently touch the bare end of a jumper
cable to that bare metal. If the negative jumper cable is
connected first, and you're connecting the positive cable
to the bad battery, you'll get a short circuit with that
inadvertent touch, powerful sparks, a possible tack weld of
the jumper cable, and a very bad day. (Possible fire, burns,
dead battery, ruined cables, etc.)
 
If you connect the positive jumper first, the end of the cable
CANNOT cause a short when it touches ANY bare metal in the
car receiving the jump.
 
The proper procedure:
1 Put the cars close together but NOT touching.
2 Stretch the cable out so the bare positive end
is away from the car with the good battery.
3 Connect the positive cable to the positive of
the good battery
4 Connect the other end of the positive cable to
the positive of the bad battery.
5 Connect the negative cable to the good battery
6 Connect the other end to the other car battery
negative, or to the other car engine compartment
metal where you can get a good solid mechanical
clamping spot.
7 When finished do the above in reverse order
 
The above recognizes - and mitigates - the possibility
of sparks, but focuses on the real potential hazard:
short circuit. I wish all this talk of exploding
hydrogen gas had never appeared, because it hides
the extremely more probable event of a short circuit,
which, of itself, creates a more powerful spark than
connecting (or disconnecting) a jumper cable to a
battery.
 
Ed
 
 
"Mighty✅ Wannabe✅" <@.>: Jan 18 04:53PM -0500

Peter wrote on 1/18/2023 3:46 PM:
 
> There's no need for TP for anyone who is retired and lives at home most of
> the time because they can just use this which works wonders for cleaning.
> https://www.amazon.com/Diverter-Portable-Cleaning-Attachment-Polished/dp/B097G9BVQ1/
 
It's a good contraption, much like a hand held bidet.
 
 
> paper for the rest of your life, and, better yet, you're cleaner (by far)
> than you would have been had you used toilet paper in the first place.
 
> These things should be standard attachments, IMHO, in all bathrooms.
 
 
It is too intimate to be shared, for hygienic reasons, unless everyone
has a personal nozzle.
 
 
> And yes, I recycle the humanure too. And the 1:1:1 NPK urine.
> Along with it goes all the kitchen scraps (nothing goes down the drain).
 
 
Do you pee and poo in a plastic urinal like they use in a hospital bed?
 
 
> I'm not disagreeing but I am pointing out the fewer the ionic
> concentration, it seems logical the water will demineralize the battery
> just as it does with a pool.
 
A car battery is not like your pool. The electrolyte in a car battery
should be dilute sulfuric acid and nothing else. The car battery
generates electricity by a reversible electro-chemical process.
Impurities will cause internal discharge and will shorten the time that
a battery can hold the charge.
 
Each cell in a lead-acid battery contains many interleave layers of
positive and negative electrode, and many thin membranes of fibre glass
hold the electrolyte between the electrodes. There is an air vent but
the environment inside the cell is pretty much isolated from the outside
world.
 
 
> solids (particularly high for salt water chlorine generator pools) & borate
> (if any).
 
> Why wouldn't demineralized water demineralize a battery?
 
 
Because a car battery doesn't work like a pool. Can your pool generate
electricity? Does you pool look like the inside of a car battery?
 
 
"Rod Speed" <rod.speed.aaa@gmail.com>: Jan 19 09:54AM +1100

On Wed, 18 Jan 2023 21:39:09 +1100, Carlos E.R. <robin_listas@es.invalid>
wrote:
 
 
>> And what happens if you tap water instead of distilled?
 
> Damage.
 
> In chemistry, you only use distilled water, for every reaction.
 
Wrong. And my formal qualifications are in chemistry.
 
> You do not want extra chemicals.
 
Depends on what you are doing. Mostly it doesn't matter.
Peeler <trolltrap@valid.invalid>: Jan 18 11:55PM +0100

On Thu, 19 Jan 2023 09:54:13 +1100, cantankerous trolling geezer Rodent
Speed, the auto-contradicting senile sociopath, blabbered, again:
 
<FLUSH the abnormal trolling senile cretin's latest trollshit unread>
 
--
Tim+ about trolling Rodent Speed:
He is by far the most persistent troll who seems to be able to get under the
skin of folk who really should know better. Since when did arguing with a
troll ever achieve anything (beyond giving the troll pleasure)?
MID: <1421057667.659518815.743467.tim.downie-gmail.com@news.individual.net>
"Rod Speed" <rod.speed.aaa@gmail.com>: Jan 19 09:59AM +1100

On Wed, 18 Jan 2023 23:09:56 +1100, Mighty✅ Wannabe✅ <.> wrote:
 
>>> De-ionized water is purer than distilled water.
 
>> The reverse.
 
> De-ionized water is pure than distilled water.
 
Nope.
 
> https://bescocommercial.com/di-water/deionized-vs-distilled/
 
That's the operation flogging de-ionizers
 
> them:
 
> Both distilled and deionized water are fit to drink.
 
> Deionized water is purer than distilled water.
 
Wrong.
 
> Distilled water conducts electricity,
 
Wrong.
 
> while deionized water does not.
 
Separate matter entirely to which has other than H2O in it.
"Rod Speed" <rod.speed.aaa@gmail.com>: Jan 19 10:07AM +1100

> don't, so I will control my patriotism and wait for more information.
 
> If the only ions in distilled but not de-ionized water are hyrogen,
> oxygen
 
Those arent ions, they are gasses.
 
> and/or hydroxide ions,
 
You don't get those in distilled water.
 
> I don't see how they would cause a probem
> in a battery.
 
They aren't.
 
> Doesn't any water in a lead acid battery ionize into
> those very ions?
 
It decomposes into gasses when overcharged.
 
"Rod Speed" <rod.speed.aaa@gmail.com>: Jan 19 10:10AM +1100

On Wed, 18 Jan 2023 23:45:07 +1100, Mighty✅ Wannabe✅ <.> wrote:
 
>> not.
 
> People have the wrong impression that "distilled water" is the purest
> form of water but that's not true.
 
Fraid so.
 
> condensed steam. The condensed steam is not 100% pure H2O because there
> are chemicals in the water with lower boiling point than H2O that will
> come over in the distillation process.
 
That,s not how distillation works. The lower boiling point liquids come
over first, before the water being distilled has reached boiling point.
 
> The best way to get deionized water is to start the deionization process
> with distilled water because there will be a lot less impurities to
> remove, and distilled water is cheap and easy to get.
 
Deionised water is even cheaper and easier to get.
"Rod Speed" <rod.speed.aaa@gmail.com>: Jan 19 10:17AM +1100


> "The main difference between these two types of water comes in the form
> of
> purity. Deionized water is the purest form of water available
 
No it is not,
 
> and, in some
> cases, can be considered a type of synthetic water.
 
Even sillier.
 
> However, distilled
> water does not contain any impurities
 
And that conflicts with its previous claim.
 
> and therefore has fewer contaminants
> than deionized water."
 
> It's a toss.
 
Nope, not in some situations like chemistry and medicine.
"Carlos E.R." <robin_listas@es.invalid>: Jan 19 12:20AM +0100

On 2023-01-18 13:36, micky wrote:
>> Here are some similarities and differences that are key to understanding
>> them:
 
>>     Both distilled and deionized water are fit to drink.
 
Bullshit, don't try that, you could die.
 
Why can't we drink distilled water?
 
Drinking distilled water creates health problems from the lack of
essential nutrients and causes dehydration. Drinking distilled water is
never a bad idea because the body cannot absorb dissolved minerals from
water into the tissue.Sep 29, 2022
 
What Is Distilled Water and Is It Safe to Drink?
https://www.freshwatersystems.com › blogs › blog › is-...
 
https://www.freshwatersystems.com/blogs/blog/is-distilled-water-safe-to-drink
 
 
 
 
> distilled water? Maybe the answer is in the articles, but I've already
> spent a lot of time on this thread, so I'll either wait until you guys
> resolve this, or I'll come back later with renewed energy.
 
<https://www.smacgigworld.com/blog/differences-between-deionized-water-and-distilled-water.php>
 
 
Distillation:
 
Advantages
 
Removes contaminants to a large extent
Reusable
Lower cost
 
Limitations
 
Some contaminants that have the same boiling point as water is
vaporized with water can be carried into the condensate
Careful maintenance is required to ensure purity
Requires more heat / electrical energy to boil the water.
Requires large space on the counter
Slower process
 
 
 
Deionization:
 
Advantages
 
Effectively remove dissolved ions in the water.
Able to regenerate resin beds
Low-cost investment
 
Limitation
 
Do not remove particles or bacteria.
Operating costs increase when used for the long term.
 
 
 
 
--
Cheers, Carlos.
"Rod Speed" <rod.speed.aaa@gmail.com>: Jan 19 10:37AM +1100

On Thu, 19 Jan 2023 02:16:22 +1100, Peter
> battery so it tells the alternator to put out a "very high" current,
> whose
> initial burst could ("they say") fry the rectifying wheatstone diodes.
 
That makes no sense because it would happen with any very
poor battery which does eventually manage to start the engine.
 
> Maybe it makes sense to the electronics folks
 
Nope.
 
>> back to the car dealership to enter the anti-theft code. The anti-theft
>> system detects the zero voltage when it is ripped from the dashboard.
 
> But what happens each time you replace the battery every few years?
 
The best way to change batterys is to keep supplying 12V with the original
battery removed until the new battery has been connected. Thats what the
pros do to avoid the antitheft system kicking in.
"Rod Speed" <rod.speed.aaa@gmail.com>: Jan 19 10:43AM +1100

On Thu, 19 Jan 2023 02:27:04 +1100, Mighty✅ Wannabe✅ <.> wrote:
 
> a misconception. The writer of that article is definitely babbling
> nonsense without any real knowledge.
 
> I am a self-made expert in distillation.
 
But don't understand the basics.
 
 
> When water boils, it is not just pure H2O that is coming out in the
> steam. All other minor solutes in the water with boiling point lower
> than water will also come out in the steam.
 
The reality is that there arent any significant amounts
of lower boiling point liquids in normal tap water and
certainly none that are a problem in a vehicle battery.
 
> Besides that, some of the light weight microscopic impurities in the
> water will also "ride" the steam and come out of the boiling water.
 
Ditto with those.
 
> temperatures.
 
> My own expertise is electrical engineering but I am, in a way, a crazy
> scientist.
 
But don't understand the basics.
 
<reams of stuff irrelevant to water for vehicle batterys flushed>
Frank <Frank@frank..net>: Jan 18 06:49PM -0500

On 1/18/2023 5:59 PM, Rod Speed wrote:
 
> Wrong.
 
>> while deionized water does not.
 
> Separate matter entirely to which has other than H2O in it.
 
It appears wrong to me too. Do not know where these claims came from
except maybe somebody trying to tout their own system.
Frank <Frank@frank..net>: Jan 18 06:51PM -0500

On 1/18/2023 5:54 PM, Rod Speed wrote:
 
> Wrong. And my formal qualifications are in chemistry.
 
>> You do not want extra chemicals.
 
> Depends on what you are doing. Mostly it doesn't matter.
 
I am a retired chemist and we are in agreement.
"Rod Speed" <rod.speed.aaa@gmail.com>: Jan 19 10:52AM +1100

On Thu, 19 Jan 2023 02:28:58 +1100, Peter
 
>> Think it out first - then decide.
 
> I'm thinking... I'm thinking... I'm trying to think this thing out.
> I don't think it matters all that much which cable goes first or last.
 
You are wrong with the question of accidentally touching
the body etc with the positive lead when the negatives
have already been connected. Much safer to connect the
positive terminals first.
 
> As far as I can think about it, the last connection is the one that
> sparks.
> And that means the first disconnection is the one that sparks.
 
Sparks aren't the problem. they happen regardless of which
of positive and negative you connect first.
 
> hydrogen gas, I guess the theory that I'll concoct is you want the
> negative
> cable to be as far from that hydrogen gas as possible.
 
The reality is that with the battery in the engine compartment
with the hood up, there will be on concentration of flammable
hydrogen gas.
 
Even with the few cars that have the battery in the passenger
compartment or the trunk, thats still very unlikely because
the battery only produces hydrogen gas when it continues
to be charged after it is fully charged.
 
> which
> battery will have more hydrogen outgassing?
 
> (A) The donor battery (which is likely already topped off) or
 
But which won't be being charged unless the engine is still running.
 
> (B) The recipient battery (which is likely taking the greater charge)
 
Only AFTER the connection has been made which allows that.
 
> The answer seems, to me, to be neither battery will have excess hydrogen
> gas, but if I was forced to choose, I guess the battery being charged the
> most has the most excess hydrogen gas, which would clearly be the donor.
 
The reality is that it isnt about hydrogen gas, its about
accidentally touching the body of the recipient car with
the positive jumper lead before it is connected to the
positive post of the flat battery.
 
Peter <occassionally-confused@nospam.co.uk>: Jan 18 08:46PM


>> Has anyone thought of that?
 
> Have you thought of using corncob instead of toilet paper? Corncob is
> cheap, natural and reusable. LOL!!!
 
I haven't used toilet paper in years.
 
There's no need for TP for anyone who is retired and lives at home most of
the time because they can just use this which works wonders for cleaning.
https://www.amazon.com/Diverter-Portable-Cleaning-Attachment-Polished/dp/B097G9BVQ1/
 
And no, you dirty minded pervert (I say that jokingly because I know what
you're thinking when you saw it) it doesn't go inside of anything.
 
It stays on the outside.
And it's warm water.
 
For that quick and easy fifty buck investment, you never need to buy toilet
paper for the rest of your life, and, better yet, you're cleaner (by far)
than you would have been had you used toilet paper in the first place.
 
These things should be standard attachments, IMHO, in all bathrooms.
 
And yes, I recycle the humanure too. And the 1:1:1 NPK urine.
Along with it goes all the kitchen scraps (nothing goes down the drain).
 
Brown, then green, then wood chips, then brown, green, chips anew.
Repeat until the closed bucket is full.
Then fertilize outside as needed.
 
And yes, the fruit trees are all fertilized by humanure/urine/scraps.
And the process starts anew.
 
> Although deionized water is 6 times more expensive than distilled water,
> but one gallon goes a long way.
 
I'm not disagreeing but I am pointing out the fewer the ionic
concentration, it seems logical the water will demineralize the battery
just as it does with a pool.
 
> Use deionized water if you want the best for your lead-acid battery.
 
The less saturated the water is, the more it demineralizes the battery. The
CSI or LSI is a very common issue with pools demineralizing for example.
 
For a pool, we are careful to manage the calcium saturation index (often
specifically the Langelier Saturation Index) to as near to the zero
crossing point as we can, keeping in mind it changes due to a half dozen
key components such as the temperature, pH, total carbonate alkalinity,
calcium hardness, cyanuric acid level (for outdoor pools), total dissolved
solids (particularly high for salt water chlorine generator pools) & borate
(if any).
 
Why wouldn't demineralized water demineralize a battery?
 
Bear in mind I don't;t know the answer - I'm just looking at the problem
set logically.
Peter <occassionally-confused@nospam.co.uk>: Jan 18 08:53PM


> Therefore, as I have explained before, the highest grade of pure water
> is deionized water made from distilled water.
 
What happens to the dissolved carbon dioxide concentration of that "highest
grade of pure water" once you open the jug & leave it for a while at STP?
 
Henrys Law says it will reach equilibrium based on the partial pressure of
the carbon dioxide in the air.
 
That ionic carbon dioxide dissolves and turns into carbonic acid.
 
pH about 5.6
 
It's only "pure water" for an instant.
Peter <occassionally-confused@nospam.co.uk>: Jan 18 10:39PM

>> the time because they can just use this which works wonders for cleaning.
>> https://www.amazon.com/Diverter-Portable-Cleaning-Attachment-Polished/dp/B097G9BVQ1/
 
> It's a good contraption, much like a hand held bidet.
 
I got the idea from this newsgroup something like a decade or so ago.
https://www.amazon.com/Bathroom-Handheld-78-7inch-Shower-Cleaning/dp/B096RG4XBW/
 
They had fitted a typical garden hose attachment instead of that one.
https://www.amazon.com/Twinkle-Star-Adjustable-Sweeper-TWIS3231/dp/B07D3TBSV7/
 
I tried it but it was too heavy, especially with the ball valve attached.
https://www.amazon.com/Worlds-Best-Water-Shut-Valve/dp/B06XKR2PZX
 
It was heavier than the diverter valve was designed to handle so I switched
to this instead, which gets its water volume control from the main valve.
https://www.amazon.com/Bathroom-Handheld-Showerhead-Vaginal-Cleaning/dp/B077RXHSC9/
 
I know what you're thinking and I'm sure it's used for that, but for me,
it's all about keeping it on the outside and making sure things are clean.
 
You'll never need toilet paper ever again and you'll be cleaner as a
result. During Covid, I was wondering why anyone hoarded TP in the first
place.
 
How does Covid make you need more TP?
 
>> These things should be standard attachments, IMHO, in all bathrooms.
 
> It is too intimate to be shared, for hygienic reasons, unless everyone
> has a personal nozzle.
 
Good point of view, where I live alone but it doesn't touch the body.
 
 
>> And yes, I recycle the humanure too. And the 1:1:1 NPK urine.
>> Along with it goes all the kitchen scraps (nothing goes down the drain).
 
> Do you pee and poo in a plastic urinal like they use in a hospital bed?
 
How did you know?
 
I used to use this but it was just too difficult to keep clean.
https://www.amazon.com/Hand-held-Portable-Capacity-Leak-Proof-Wheelchair/dp/B07VMPYLQ6/
 
Plus, the only thing getting bigger down there is my prostate, which is
wreaking havoc with the drainage hydraulics, where I'll say no more.
 
Three of these a night tend to be simpler and work better on your side
while in bed, with one more kept by the office computer because it's
emptied more easily into the five gallon containment bucket (which is a
re-used Costco 40 pound jug of soybean oil, or whatever size it is).
https://www.amazon.com/Portable-Urinal-Bottle-Elderly-Plastic/dp/B08DXKKC2R/
 
It's really good for the environment NOT to make nitrogen fertilizer at a
factory because the nitrogen in the NPK consumes inordinate amounts of
heat.
 
For the environment, I collect the thicker stuff in one of these.
https://www.amazon.com/YUMSUM-Stable-Countoured-Bed-Bound-Patient/dp/B074G3P9BB/
 
The only problem with any of this is keeping things clean, but consider it
a tradeoff as I never have to clean the toilets in the house ever again.
 
It feels good to give back to the soil, where I combine kitchen scraps,
wood chips, and humanure in layers in a re-used Costco dichlor bucket with
the cap held tightly as the bigger corvids fly around where I've kept it, I
guess they're thinking a dead animal lives there or something. :)
 
I don't think I waste anything as I burn all paper in the fireplace along
with the wood in the wood-burning stove, so it's only plastic that I have
to place in the recycling bins about once every two months per bucket.
 
> generates electricity by a reversible electro-chemical process.
> Impurities will cause internal discharge and will shorten the time that
> a battery can hold the charge.
 
I'm not disagreeing with you as I said I didn't know from the start.
I do know pool chemistry though - but not battery chemistry.
At least not yet.
But keep talking and I can learn from you which is a good thing.
 
> hold the electrolyte between the electrodes. There is an air vent but
> the environment inside the cell is pretty much isolated from the outside
> world.
 
I don't think I've had to add water to a car battery in years. I guess it's
done though as the caps come off (two sets of three).
 
>> Why wouldn't demineralized water demineralize a battery?
 
> Because a car battery doesn't work like a pool. Can your pool generate
> electricity? Does you pool look like the inside of a car battery?
 
You got me there.
 
The pool chemistry is simple because pH doesn't matter for sanitation where
I just pour liquid chlorine into the pool to maintain the chlorine level at
least 7.5% of the cyanuric acid level. That's it for sanitation.
 
For saturation, there are a half dozen factors, only half of which do you
have any amount of control over, the other half (like temperature) are out
of your hands so it's a game of matching the saturation index with the
expected temperatures combined with the dilution when it rains and the
concentration when it evaporates and you have to fill with city water.
 
I would think battery chemistry has the same "type" of equilibrium
constants (Pka is what we deal with in pool chemistry) though.
 
Just different chemicals and more redox stuff.
Charles Lucas <clsnowyowl@gmail.com>: Jan 18 09:15AM -0800

On Saturday, January 14, 2023 at 5:29:13 PM UTC-6, Bodger wrote:
> > G960UTUES9FVD1.
> OK, now that makes sense. Somehow my mind jumped to the image of a separate
> microphone input. Probably some gray cells are winking out from lack of use...
 
A signal always travels from its output to its input as long as the rules of proper
power and impedance are followed along the way- kind of like a glorified postal
system, from a conceptual sense.
 
The headphone jack can be use as a variable audio output jack when using a patch
cord or Y-adapter patch cable from that device to an RCA audio R/L audio input on
an analog recording device (converting the impedance from an 1/8" (3.5 mm) jack
at 32 ohms to an RCA jack at 1000 ohms) which leads up to an analog device.
 
Or you can use an 1/8" male to male patch cable to go to a computer line input or
other similar device to convert the signal to a digital sampler (starting out as analog
and then getting converted to a digital media in the processing). You have to remember
level control is also very important. Don't overload the headphone outs with "too much"
signal (or distortive audio) or avoid overdriving the signal.
 
Good Luck.
 
Charles Lucas
You received this digest because you're subscribed to updates for this group. You can change your settings on the group membership page.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it send an email to sci.electronics.repair+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com.

No Response to "Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 25 updates in 3 topics"

Post a Comment