| Guy Patterson <str00ntz@aol.com>: Jan 24 07:36AM -0800 > A lot of guys miss the dial indicator.. they're usually just folded metal that slide along the metal dial scale. Those things drag like you won't believe. Sometimes the dial might have a piece of folded fish paper inside as a bearing, but many don't. In any case, clean and polish the edge of the dial with an abrasive if need be to form a highly polished bearing surface. Rub some graphite into the area right where the dial slides along. Careful not to get graphite on the dial itself (unsightly). > Before restringing, get a Q-Tip/ISO and clean the drive pulley shaft and all secondary pulleys of lube or wayward graphite. If you excise all possible friction, you'll find it will tune with no dragging, jerking, or stopping even with less turns around the drive pulley than the diagram calls for (resist the temptation of adding more turns than it calls for - it only causes windup binding). > I've had people pooh-pooh this advice and end up giving me the radio to restring because they don't believe that tiny amount of friction will prevent the dial cord from grabbing. Thank you!! After reading this, a light bullb went off and I decided to pull out a troublesome Philco that has always slipped. I had some guys at Kutztown restring it about 5 years ago and it worked for a few days and started slipping again, so I stopped using it. Nothing more frustrating than trying to change the station or even tweaking the tuning as it drifts after an hour of use. They put on some liquid which was probably rosin and it worked great at the table. Too bad it didn't last. You were right about the pulleys. With the dial string removed they spun freely but putting either a little side pressure or up pressure on them where they might butt up against the peened top made them stiffen right up. That is probably why the heavier the spring I tried the worse it got. I used the wide end of a flat toothpick to tap in a bit of graphite moly powder i had kicking around from Pinewood derby between the pulleys and the shafts, and now the pulleys spin easily even when I side load them. I also found the top rail of the dial binding when I pushed down on it just like you said. I used a small needle file and dressed the top edge and then sanded it smooth and rubbed in some graphite with a qtip so I wouldn't get any on the dial face and now the dial indicator pushes smooth even when I put pressure on it. The tuner itself seemed free but I added a couple of drops of light synthetic oil to the bearings anyway. My Philco now tunes like butter and I can even put my thumb on the big tuner pulley and it still pulls the tuner through. I can now tune and fine tune this radio for the first time ever. Thanks so much. I will do this with every radio I have from now on. |
| RonTheGuy <ron@null.invalid>: Jan 23 09:33AM -0800 2-car garage door won't open but five inches under certain circumstances. Closes just fine. However (1) If I open from the inside wall switch, it always opens. (2) But if I open from the remote control, it often stops after 5 inches. You'd think it's the remote but when I use the outside remote that is mounted to the wall, it does the same thing, so it's not the remote per se. Replaced the remote batteries anyway. Same thing. The springs are big fat dual springs, which are about five years old or so. If they're "sagging", I don't see any physical evidence of that weakening. There was an original red paint line which the manufacturer painted onto the unwound spring which is now a spiral when wound, understandably so. I had painted a thin white line across the wound springs when they were installed and that line doesn't appear to have moved. It's still straight. I air blasted the rollers and track and greased but it made little to no difference and I cleaned the mechanism inside the garage door opener. What appears to be what's happening is the garage door opener, which has to be twenty years old if not older, is suddenly "needing" more time to start. Can that be? Is there an adjustment in the garage door opener itself for pulse time? Since the door opens fully if it has "more time" on the switch, is there any way to make a remote 'stay on' longer than just a pulse? Ron, the humblest guy in town. |
| bob prohaska <bp@www.zefox.net>: Jan 23 06:37PM > Is there an adjustment in the garage door opener itself for pulse time? > Since the door opens fully if it has "more time" on the switch, > is there any way to make a remote 'stay on' longer than just a pulse? I've seen lots of erratic behavior with a Genie keychain remote when the conductive rubber buttons get lint between the rubber pad and the circuit board. Not likely to be any help, but it's an easy thing to clean. Anything that causes contact bounce in the switches on the buttons can make the receiver stop, since the control program is usually close to start, close again to stop, close to reverse direction. hth, bob prohaska |
| Ken <Ken@invalid.com>: Jan 23 02:14PM -0600 bob prohaska wrote: > start, close again to stop, close to reverse direction. > hth, > bob prohaska I think you are on the right path. I would open the receiver and clean any contacts it had as well as check the caps in it. If there is any interruption in the start of the closure effort, it will abort. |
| ehsjr <ehsjr@verizon.net>: Jan 23 03:18PM -0500 On 1/23/2023 12:33 PM, RonTheGuy wrote: > Since the door opens fully if it has "more time" on the switch, > is there any way to make a remote 'stay on' longer than just a pulse? > Ron, the humblest guy in town. Here's a possibility: bad electrolytic capacitor in the receiver power supply (inside the ceiling mounted opener motor housing). What *may* be happening: the direction relay (up or down) in the receiver is "chattering" (not fully transferring, allowing the contacts to bounce far more than usual) when activated by the remote due to pulsing voltage from the supply. The same pulsing voltage, when applied to the relay by the wall switch is applied for a longer time, allowing the relay to fully transfer. You have to know what you're doing to safely diagnose and repair this. Openers can bite your fingers HARD, and testing live (120VAC) circuits while on a ladder presents it's own possible hazards. If you have the skill, you can do it safely. Good luck. Ed |
| legg <legg@nospam.magma.ca>: Jan 24 09:12AM -0500 On Mon, 23 Jan 2023 09:33:49 -0800, RonTheGuy <ron@null.invalid> wrote: >Since the door opens fully if it has "more time" on the switch, >is there any way to make a remote 'stay on' longer than just a pulse? >Ron, the humblest guy in town. If lighting is also controlled by the remote, you might check the bulbs used. Some CCFL substitutes will interfere while 'on'. RL |
| Charles Lucas <clsnowyowl@gmail.com>: Jan 23 09:35AM -0800 On Friday, January 20, 2023 at 10:51:04 PM UTC-6, Bob F wrote: > recording of it's output. > Can anyone propose what they might be doing, or ways to get past it. > I cannot find any other FM apps that will run on my S9. I repeated this message for the benefit of all concerned. We never addressed the software you use. Some software is not licensed to pickup signals for recording because they want you to pay money for that. You can download several free audio recording or dubbing software apps, record in .mp3 at the desired rate, and then copy and paste the completed file over to NextRadio's output folder for audio so you can play it back. Or you can record it in 16 bit Stereo wave format (.wav) file, convert it to .mp3 format you desire to convert it to with a convertor. Then dump the file into NextRadio's output folder to playback the finished .mp3 file. In this way, you can bypass the software you speak of stringent requirements and pedantic quirks. FYI, sometimes, there is a DRM (Digital Rights Management) on these files or software that play them to prohibit copying copywritten files. DRM is a form of a "copy" guard, again because it boils down to the fact that they want you to pay money to get the composite signal that comes from them. I just provided you work arounds without the cost and the hassle; I also warn that this post is for educational purposes only regarding recording and conversion of signal and is not an encouragement to violate any copyright or infringe upon anyone's work in any other form otherwise. Good luck, Charles Lucas |
| Bob F <bobnospam@gmail.com>: Jan 23 08:09PM -0800 On 1/23/2023 9:35 AM, Charles Lucas wrote: > free audio recording or dubbing software apps, record in .mp3 at the desired rate, and > then copy and paste the completed file over to NextRadio's output folder for audio so > you can play it back. No need to play it back using NextRadio. I just want to be able to capture the sound from it. I tried a half dozed audio capture apps, and none of them can capture the internal audio from NextRadio, or the reduced signal sent out the earphones and fed back (reduced) into the external mic input with. I even tried using a headphone with a mic, and taping one of the earpieces to the mic rather than resisters and a cap to feed the signal back, and neither one works. One of the recorder apps shuts off the NextRadio output when recording, the others just have 0 volume input despite the signal going into the external mic input, or they just record whatever the internal mic hears. |
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